Revision as of 18:21, 21 January 2010

Note:

This page serves as a compilation of amor_fati's approaches to various facets of psychonautica. The content is to remain accurate as such.

Note:

This page is a work in progress -- its content throughout is not yet complete.

DMT and Other Associated Molecules

Extraction

The process of DMT extraction has always been a relatively simple and forgiving process and can be approached with a wide variety of methods and techniques for varying degrees of success and quality of product. Most of the more common time-tested techniques involve processes and materials resembling the production of other less savory substances, and often require large quantities of time, materials, strain, and space on the part of the operator. Perhaps the most concerning quality common to these techniques is the toxicity and other hazards inherent to the materials in use. However, less toxic and even completely nontoxic approaches have been in development for some time, now, and hope to usher in a new era of wholesome, food-grade extraction of psychedelic substances.

This approach hopes to establish a thorough and reliable nontoxic method of extraction to yield results comparable to those of its less wholesome ancestors.

Abstract

One of the most unfortunate realities of the extraction of DMT from whole MHRB, is the process of pulverization, as most households aren't equipped with the proper equipment to thoroughly pulverize the material into powder. Furthermore, the equipment most used for the task are either slightly expensive or prone to damage when used in this way--sometimes both. The inspiration behind the method of pulverization used here was one that seemed among the most noteworthy yet developed: The combination of a blender and a mason jar to perform the task carries the advantage of being able to contain all the source material reliably (to include the messy, potentially damaging dust produced in the process), and to contain it with the same vessel in which the first stages of extraction may be carried out. Drawing on this method of pulverization, this tek expands on it by making it more thorough and combining it with other portions of the extraction process.

The extraction portion of this process uses three vessels in which all stages of extraction will cycle through in order to reduce mess, loss of material, and loss of product. The bulk of the process will take place in a single vessel in which pulverization and basification will occur and in a rather automated fashion. Then all material will be transferred to a vessel in which washing, decanting, and filtration of the target solvent will all take place simultaneously. After passing through this vessel, the target solvent will be collected in another vessel. The process of the second and third vessels can then be repeated by pouring the solvent back into the first vessel, then back through the second. If unsatisfied with the results, the material can be transfered back into the first vessel and blended with more reagent.

Rendering product from the extraction involves salting by thoroughly mixing the solvent with acidic water and then separating the layers to collect the water from the bottom and reuse the solvent from the top. The collected solution can then be evaporated with heat and airflow to yield precipitates consisting of salted product and excess acid, which can be purified simply by dissolving the product in water, decanting and evaporating.

The process can take a relatively short amount of time, with the longest waiting periods being the process of preparing MHRB for pulverization, time for solvent to pass through the material, separation of the polar and non-polar layers, and evaporation. The reliability of this method of extraction is derived from its ability to render a homogeneous mixture of MHRB, lime, and water and allow that mixture to remain moist so that the reaction is ensured to go to completion.

Procedure

Note:

Steps 3-4 may prove unnecessary and will be removed pending trial by experimentation.

Materials Required
Source Material: 100g whole MHRB
Solvents: d-H2O d-Limonene
Reagents/Desiccants: 50-100g Hydrated Calcium hydroxide, aka Pickling Lime Fumaric acid Distilled White Vinegar
Equipment: A simple blender with a blade assembly to fit a regular-mouth jar 2 regular-mouth quart mason jars 1 32oz HDPE bottle Cotton balls Cotton cloth (flour sacks) Suggested Equipment: Food dehydrator Separatory device (separatory funnel, or a glass gravy separator) Evaporation dish Small container for preparing FASW (i.e. 450mL "Naked" or small IPA HDPE bottles) Slightly larger HDPE or glass jug for salting (i.e. large IPA or hydrogen peroxide or vinegar HDPE bottles)

1. Prepare MHRB for pulverization by breaking up by hand or any other method suitable.
2. Add 100g MHRB to a regular-mouth quart mason jar.
3. Attach blender blade assembly and pulverize contents thoroughly.
4. Thoroughly moisten the bark with vinegar, replace the lid on the jar, and heat in a hot water bath below boiling.
   

   
   
   
   

   
   • acid and heat treatment may aid in breaking down the material for extraction.
5. Add 50-100g hydrated lime to the jar w/ sufficient amount of water to thoroughly moisten contents.
6. Add an amount of limonene just short of filling the jar.
7. Attach blender blade assembly and blend/pulverize contents thoroughly until of a doughy consistency.
8. Prepare The Herbal Percolator (THP) by cutting the bottom off a 32oz HDPE spray bottle, stuffing cotton balls in the neck loosely, and covering the nape of the neck with a few layers of cotton rag.
9. Set the bottle in a clean regular mouth quart jar with the rim of the lid loosely screwed onto the the mouth to prevent a seal from forming between the bottle and the jar.
   • remember to remove the rim prior to pouring out the collected limonene to avoid a mess.
10. Pour the contents of the blending jar into THP and stir while allowing limonene to pass through into the collection jar.
11. Continue to pass limonene through THP until satisfied, adding more if necessary.
    • preferrably by pouring the limonene into the original blending jar and using it to wash any remenants into THP
12. Prepare a saturated solution of a known amount of fumaric acid.
    • referred to as 'FASW', or 'Fumaric Acid Saturated Water'.
13. Combine FASW with the limonene used for extraction in a glass or HDPE jug and shake vigorously to mix thoroughly.
14. Allow to separate and for emulsions to settle and pour into a separatory device.
15. Collect bottom water layer for evaporation and top limonene layer for reuse or recycling.
16. Evaporate using heat of no more than 120F and sufficient airflow and collect salt and acid precipitates.
    • scraping the product off the dish can be difficult, so it is easier to scrape it into a pile while still wet, then continue to dry.
    • comparison of the total weight to that of the known amount of fumaric acid should indicate amount of freebase product present.
17. Purify the salted product by dissolving in water and decanting off of excess undissolved fumaric acid and evaporating.
    • the coloration of the decanted solution should indicate the amount of product dissolved.
18. Collect the dry, solid DMT Fumarate, and handle with care and sincerity.
    • this product contains approximately 76% DMT freebase.

Notes Regarding the Extraction Process

• The use of only 100g MHRB per THP is recommended to avoid overflow in the process of stirring as well as damage to the blender, but more may be used if the operator see's fit; however, it is strongly recommended that no more than 150g be used at a time. If too much is used so that stirring is found difficult, an amount can be removed and simply kept in the blending jar and stirred in limonene between transfers.
• For multiple extractions to be performed at a time, it is recommended that the operator prepare the total amount of limonene to be used in the process and add to each as needed. When complete, the limonene can be collected and salted as a total amount.
• This process can theoretically be applied to other DMT-containing botanicals with only minor adjustments and even to the extraction of mescaline from dried cactus material with the use of a more appropriate acid.

Advantages

• Nontoxic and wholesome
  • Requires only food-grade materials with little or no potential impact on health or the environment.
• The use of only household equipment and materials
  • All items are readily available on the open market and are commonly found in the home.
• Minimal material demand
  • Less material to handle and less cost than most other extraction teks, making the process of extraction and disposal of materials much less messy or risky.
• Potentially expedient
  • The process may only require a day to perform, yielding adequate results, overnight.
• Simplified
  • Many of the processes required for extraction have been combined and largely automated: Such as filtering and decanting, as well as mixing and pulverization.
• Effective use of whole MHRB
  • Generally cheaper more readily available, also with less risk of vendor introduced impurities or premature oxidation of product.

Special Thanks

• To 69ron and Infundiblum for pioneering the use of fumaric acid in the refinement of DMT.^[1][2]
• To 69ron for pioneering the use of lime and limonene for the purpose of extraction.
  • apart the use of a blender, this tek is almost identical to SWIM's THP approach to 69ron's mescaline extraction tek^[3] and not far off from 69ron's proposed technique for the nontoxic extraction of DMT.
• To Jorkest for pioneering the use of limonene and FASW in DMT extraction.^[4]
• To Bufoman for developing a nontoxic, simple means of purifying DMT fumarate.^[5]
• To the Nexian who developed the blender method of pulverizing MHRB.^[6][7]
• To The Herbal Percolator for all its simplicity.
• And to The Traveler and the rest of the Nexus for making this possible.

Administration by Inspiration

Freebase Conversion

Though relatively simple, the conversion of DMT fumarate to freebase tends to pose some difficulties for achieving a pure and well crystallized product. Decanting from material containing magnesium sulfate powder will often carry particulates that are not easily filtered. Evaporation can take an excessive amount of time to achieve a solid product and often doesn't result in a very solid product. These techniques are intended to remedy such problems.

Nontoxic Conversion

Nontoxic Conversion of Full-Range Fumarate Extract of Jurema to Freebase w/ Hasty Manual Crystallization

Step 1: Mix fumarate w/ sodium carbonate Step 2: Moisten to facilitate reaction Materials Required Source Material: Fumarate Extract of Jurema NOTE While this procedure may work for pure DMT fumarate or even other salts of Spice, it has not yet been proven by experimentation. Solvents: d-H2O Reagents/Desiccants: Sodium Carbonate can be rendered from baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) Equipment: Razor Blade Lab Spatula any similar tool will work Evaporation Dish Collection Vessel Step 3: Spread mixture Step 4: Wash product Mix DMT fumarate with an equal or greater amount of sodium carbonate on the evaporation dish and moisten thoroughly, dropwise. Allot adequate time and stirring for complete reaction. Spread the moistened mixture evenly and thinly across the dish. the more thinly and evenly spread, the more likely the product will adhere to the glass, preventing it from being washed away as droplets in suspension. Add a minimal amount of water to dissolve the sodium carbonate and salt byproduct by tilting and rolling the puddle around the dish to ensure adequate contact. When all visible sodium carbonate grains have been dissolved and all particulates settled, carefully decant the water into a collection vessel and save in case of product loss. Use a razor blade to spread the oily product thinly and firmly across the dish in cross-hatched fashion. When the oil thickens to a pasty consistency, use a lab spatula repeatedly scrape up and and spread out the product until it thickens noticeably more. Spread the product thinly across the dish and allow to harden to a clay-like consistency. Scrape up and mold to the desired form and density to collected. Store in a cool, dark place in a sealed container, preferably protected from moisture and oxygen, and handle with care and sincerity. Step 5-6: Decant wash-water Step 7: Spread firmly Step 7:Spread firmly Step 8: Repeatedly scrape and spread Step 9: Allow to harden Step10: Scrape up to collect

Drytek Conversion

Drytek Conversion of Full-Range Fumarate Extract of Jurema to Freebase w/ Hasty Manual Crystallization

Materials Required Source Material: Fumarate Extract of Jurema NOTE While this procedure may work for pure DMT fumarate, it has not yet been proven by experimentation. Solvents: d-H2O Anhydrous Acetone Anhydrous IPA may work as well. Reagents/Desiccants: Sodium Carbonate can be rendered from baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) Anhydrous Magnesium Sulfate converted from epsom salt Equipment: Razor Blade Lab Spatula any similar tool will work Dropper Evaporation Dish Reacting Vessel Collection Vessel Transfer Vessel Cotton Balls Small HDPE Bottle Mix DMT fumarate with an equal amount of sodium carbonate and moisten thoroughly. Allot adequate time and stirring for complete reaction. Mix in anhydrous magnesium sulfate until material is thoroughly dry. Prepare a small THP by cutting the bottom off a small HDPE bottle, stuffing cotton balls in the neck, inverting it and suspending it over a glass receiving vessel. Empty the material into THP and pour anhydrous acetone through the material into the collection vessel. If particulates leak through the filter, pour the acetone back into THP and repeat until no more leakage occurs and until satisfied with the level of saturation as indicated by the color of the solution. Pour acetone into an evaporation dish Continue to pull with acetone until material is apparently exhausted as indicated by a lack of coloration. the material can be left in THP and stored as such to be reused without removing the old material or filter. Evaporate acetone in a food dehydrator below 100F until sparse droplets of liquid remain. evaporation and crystallization can be accomplished simply by leaving the dish in a dry area for a few days, foregoing this step and those following. adding a small amount of acetone and even heptane when the liquid has reduced to a small puddle may hasten the evaporation process Use a razor blade to spread the oily product thinly and firmly across the dish in cross-hatched fashion. adding minute amounts of acetone drop-wise may hasten the process. When the oil thickens to a pasty consistency, use a lab spatula repeatedly scrape up and and spread out the product until it thickens noticeably more. Spread the product thinly across the dish and allow to harden to a clay-like consistency. Scrape up and mold to the desired form and density to collected. Store in a cool, dark place in a sealed container, preferably protected from moisture and oxygen, and handle with care and sincerity.

Appendices

Chunks of Freebase Jurema Produced by Manual Crystallization

Material Preparation

Conversion of Sodium Bicarbonate into Sodium Carbonate

Sodium carbonate on left and bicarbonate on right, both in oversaturated solutions. After vs Before the conversion. Sodium carbonate on left and bicarbonate on right. Notice how carbonate is more grainy and bicarbonate more loose/fluffy Weigh your sodium bicarbonate, and put it onto a non-aluminum pan or oven-safe dish. Place in the oven at 400ºF (205ºC) for one hour to one hour and a half to release CO2 and water. Alternatively you can put in a stainless steel (dont use any other material!) pot on the stovetop, 20mins should be enough. Be careful because the powder will be VERY hot, leave it to cool down for a while. The resulting material should have lost around 20% of the original weight. It will be of a slightly less powdery consistency, closer to sugar than flour. If it didnt lose a third of the original weigh, leave it for longer in the oven sodium carbonate feels a bit looser and grainier than bicarbonate, and in an oversaturated solution, sodium bicarbonate will remain powdery while sodium carbonate tends to rock up. NOTE This can also be done on a stove top/oven ring in a pot and take around 10 minutes to completely dehydrate

Rendering Anhydrous Magnesium Sulfate

Spread Epsom Salt (Hydrated Magnesium Sulfate) on an aluminum foil covered pan. Place in the oven on 400°F for about one hour, or until the salt becomes gray and ash-like. Place your now anhydrous magnesium sulfate into a storage container and store away from moisture. If it becomes hydrated again, the process can be repeated. NOTE This can also be done on the stove top/oven ring, however it should be noted that as the Epsom Salt releases water it will stick to the inside of your pot but as it reaches complete dehydration and becomes grey and ash like it will unstick and become a powder.

Rendering Anhydrous Acetone
Pour anhydrous magnesium sulfate directly into the can of acetone. Shake vigorously for an extended amount of time. Allow to settle for one day. Observe the magnesium sulfate at the bottom of the can. if it appears extremely moist, repeat the process. if it appears quite dry, the acetone is ready for use. Store away from moisture and never leave uncapped.

THP Approach to Rendering Anhydrous Acetone
Prepare THP by cutting the bottom off of an HDPE bottle and stuffing cotton balls the neck. Fill THP with anhydrous magnesium sulfate, leaving enough room for an appropriate amount of acetone to fill. Pour acetone through THP until satisfactorily dried. Store acetone away from moisture and never leave uncapped.

Special Thanks

• To Infundiblum for developing the first nontoxic freebase conversion technique which inspired the nontoxic technique contained herein. ^[8]

Reference

1. ↑ The FASA Method[1]
2. ↑ Spice Extraction-The FASA Approach
3. ↑ 69ron's D-Limonene Mescaline Extraction
4. ↑ Jorkest's D-Limonene and Fumaric Acid Approach
5. ↑ FASA Alteration of Final Purification
6. ↑ Grinding Bark #15[2]
7. ↑ Grinding Bark #18[3]
8. ↑ DMT Fumarate to DMT Freebase

Improvisation of Devices for Vaporization

The Inspirator

The Inspirator was considered by its designer to be the criterion of efficiency for vaporizing spice, and to be a cheap and effective method of achieving sufficiently cool, full, measured doses. The device is inspired in part by The Machine but operates by convection heating--diffusing the heat through a ceramic heat-sink, in turn heating the airflow--rather than conduction. This design was the final evolution of The Mini-Machine Bubbler Stem, though has since been succeeded by The Inspirator mkII.

Procedure for Construction

Note:

Though this design is thought to minimize the possibility of exposure, SuperWool 607 HT should be used for health considerations, as ceramic fiber can be hazardous to the repiratory system.

Materials Required

Equipment: Butane Torch (same one that will be used for vaporization) Glass Dropper Stem (either from a pharmacy OTC or an online vendor) Ceramic Fiber (in any form, often found as blankets) Please use SuperWool 607 HT for health considerations. 1 Round Metal Screen or Faucet Aerator (as long as the metal doesn't burn or melt with the use of a butane torch) A Thin Metal Rod (even a paper clip would probably work) Safety Pin (long enough to punch holes through the plug) Pliers Rubber Gasket and/or Latex Tubing

The Inspirator

Close up of the heat intake.

An alternative design w/ copper mesh.

1. Carefully crush the nozzle of the dropper stem with pliers, leaving a slight portion of the nozzle's curve.
   • be sure to wash out any lingering pieces of glass.
2. Melt the broken end of the stem with a torch so that the sharp edges are dulled and any cracks sealed.
3. Cut a segment of ceramic fiber, and use a thin metal rod to stuff it down toward the nozzle-end snuggly, and so that a part of the ceramic is exposed out of the heat intake.
4. Ensure that the screen to be used is heat resistant by applying direct flame with the torch, and if smoke emits, continue to burn until no more can be observed.
   • alternatively, a small metal mesh plug can be prepared from steel or copper scrub-pad in the same manner.
   • this is the absolute highest temperature this piece will ever reach and will remain inert while in use.
5. After it has cooled, use a chopstick or another cylindrical device thin enough to fit the inside of the dropper stem to apply pressure to the center of the screen while bending the edges up and around the device to mold it into a form that will fit snuggly in the stem.
6. Carefully push the screen as snuggly as possible atop the ceramic fiber plug in the piece, working edges down between the glass and the plug.
7. Fit two gaskets on the stem far enough from the plug to avoid heat but far enough from the other end to provide a stable stem.
   • alternatively and more cheaply, a small section of latex tubing could be rolled or folded into a ring around the stem to serve the same purpose.

Calibration

for Calibrating Airflow

NOTE Airflow is the key factor in ensuring the quality and effectiveness of the device. A properly calibrated Inspirator will vaporize perfectly with little to no subsequent maintenance. Using a thin metal rod or similar device, compress the screen and ceramic fiber plug by gradually and carefully working down the edges of the screen. Keep the screen stable and in place with the rod, and, with a safety pin, punch a hole through the plug from the intake of the piece to the screen, working the ceramic around to compress it to the sides in order to help it hold it's form. Remove the rod and use the safety pin to push the screen slightly off of the ceramic plug, and gently dig any remaining ceramic in the middle of the screen into the sides. To test the airflow, simply blow through the open-end of the piece, but the success of calibration can be more accurately gauged by seating in a bubbler and drawing air through. there should be some amount of pressure but no strain on the draw. The result of proper calibration will be rapid production of thick and cool vapor almost immediately upon heat application.

Administration.

Use w/ Dry Freebase

NOTE This procedure works as well with one screen inserted as two. Place product into the open end of the stem and stuff down to the screen with a thin rod. Feather the glass with a torch until the product melts into the screen. Insert the stem into a bubbler as a bowl, with the open end in. Use a torch to apply heat to the exposed ceramic portion of the plug while drawing air through the bubbler. keeping some distance with the torch is recommended to avoiding burning or overheating. Only apply heat until a decent amount of vapor can be observed in the chamber, carb the bubbler immediately but briefly, and continue to apply heat and inhale in the same manner. once the device reaches a sufficient temperature, it will give off vapor rapidly and will not necessarily require continued heat application, but continue to heat periodically during the draw to ensure complete vaporization. if the vapor emits too slow or becomes harsh--either hot or burnt--this is due to inadequate airflow through the plug and must be calibrated with a safety pin for the device to operate properly. Seated in a bubbler. Loading the device.

Use w/ Acetate Tincture

NOTE It is recommended that two screens be used for this procedure. A tincture may be produced specifically for vaporization by placing a known amount of freebase in a dropper bottle and diluting with distilled white vinegar (5% acetic acid), heating with a hot water bath and shaking vigorously, evaporating the contents of the dropper bottle and repeating until the contents are completely dissolved. currently 200mg/mL, yielding ~7mg/drop, is the recommended maximum concentration. oral use of a tincture produced in this manner is not recommended, due to the lack of a proper preservative The Inspirator may then be loaded with sets of 1-3 drops (recommended) followed by feathering the piece with a torch between sets and prior to usage in order to boil off excess water, as well as to dissociate acetic acid from the product to render a freebase. this will help prevent any tincture from running out of the piece, as well as to eliminate acid to improve the quality of the vapor. do not put the nozzle directly in the piece, as this will create a seal, resulting in positive pressure forcing some of the tincture out of the piece. Proceed with normal vaporization procedure as outlined in use with dry freebase.

Notes on Effective Use and Maintenance

for Cleaning The Inspirator

Attach a chemically resistant dropper bulb to the open end of the stem. Prepare a flask of cleaning solvent (IPA or acetone work best). Draw in the solvent and squirt out through the plug until sufficiently clean. actives may potentially be salvaged from cleaning solvent collected over time. Scrub with a q-tip. Carefully blow out remaining solvent. Feather the piece with a torch to aid in evaporating solvent and carefully apply the flame to the tip in order to burn any residual solvent. the tip will light up like a candle, so allow the flame to burn while feathering the glass with a torch to hasten the process. Scrub out moisture with the other end of the q-tip. Ensure the absence of residual solvent prior to use by smell and further flame application. Recalibrate the piece if necessary.

Storage

To ensure that the inspirator is clean prior to every use, it can be stored in a dropper bottle filled with IPA.

• Ensure the absence of IPA in the piece prior to usage by heating, burning and blowing the residual solvent out of the piece.

Two Inspirators stored in dropper bottles, preserved with IPA, along with a super-concentrated acetate spice tincture intended for vaporization.

Inspirator removed from bottle.

With a little clearanc from the end, a gasket can fit snuggly in the bottle with the cap and dropper bottle in place.

Further Tips

• Another handy method for storing the piece would be to cap the nozzle end with the dropper bulb in order to protect from breakage and keep track of the bulb to use when cleaning.
• A second gasket generally makes the piece safer to handle--especially if used as a pull stem--while the other provides a seal.
• For group sessions, it would be easiest to prepare an individual piece for each person so that dosage can be more easily regulated.
• When handling the piece after heating, handle by the gasket and avoid any part of the heated portion of the glass coming into any contact with hard surfaces.
• A good way to cool down a stem is to roll it rapidly between the palms, drawing the heat off the glass with one's hands.
• If the the nozzle end of the piece breaks off at any point, carefully push the plug to the other end of the piece when it has sufficiently cooled, heat the sharp edges until dulled, and push the plug back into place firmly, with a finger in place causing the plug to mushroom slightly until it fits snugly in place.
• Ensure adequate airflow through the piece by poking holes in the plug with a safety pin.
• Develop a relationship with the device.

Special Thanks

• To Warrensaged for pioneering the use of a machine-style bowl with a bubbler.^[1]
• To q21q21 and Bumber for inspiring the development of the progenitor of this method.^[2]

The Mini-Machine Bubbler Stem

The Mini-Machine Bubbler Stem is considered by its creator to be an effective and cheap alternative to most other vaporizing devices, and to be most effective when multiple hits are desired over single full measured doses.

Procedure for Construction

Materials Required
Equipment: Butane Torch (same one that will be used for vaporization) Glass Dropper Stem (either from a pharmacy OTC or an online vendor) Copper or Stainless Steel Pan Scrubber (as long as the metal doesn't burn or melt with the use of a butane torch) A Thin Metal Rod (even a paper clip would probably work) Pliers Rubber Gasket and/or Latex Tubing

Dropper Stem

Complete Mini-Machine Bubbler Stem

Some variations in design.

1. Carefully crush the nozzle of the dropper stem with pliers, leaving a slight portion of the nozzle's curve.
   • be sure to wash out any lingering pieces of glass.
2. Heat the broken end of the stem with a torch so that the sharp edges are dulled and any cracks sealed.
3. Cut off a piece of the metal scrub pad, hold it with pliers, and burn with a torch under an oven hood until no more smoke is emitted.
4. After it has cooled, stuff it in the larger end of the dropper stem, and use a thin metal rod to stuff it down toward the nozzle-end somewhat tightly, and so that a part of the mesh is exposed out of the broken end.
   • experiment with different lengths of plugs to determine what size is optimal for preventing runoff and providing even, rapid heating.
5. Fit two gaskets on the stem far enough from the plug to avoid heat but far enough from the other end to provide a stable stem.
   • alternatively and more cheaply, a small section of latex tubing could be rolled or folded into a ring around the stem to serve the same purpose.

Administration.

For use as a portable vaporizer, attach the nozzle of a straight dropper stem to the open end by a small section of latex tubing.

1. Place product into the open end of the stem and stuff down to the plug with a thin metal rod.
2. Feather the glass with a torch until the product melts into the mesh plug.
3. Insert the stem into a bubbler as a bowl, with the open end in.
4. Use a torch to apply heat to the mesh plug while drawing air through the bubbler.
   • keeping some distance with the torch is recommended to avoiding burning or overheating.
   • once the device reaches a sufficient temperature, it will give off vapor rapidly and will not necessarily require continued heat application.
5. If runoff occurs, push the mesh plug to the open end, then back down to the nozzle end to collect it for further administration.
   • a finger placed on the nozzle-end when pushing the plug back into place may prevent much of the stress on the glass that could result in breakage.

Use with an Improvised Labware Bubbler
The mouthpiece is a longer dropper tube (Pasteur pipette) connected to the nozzle of the vacuum flask by another segment of latex tubing. The segment of latex on the top of the inlet is folded over itself to make a wide even rim to facilitate a proper seal with the glass rim of the dropper stem when held in place.

Notes on Effective Use and Maintenance

for Cleaning the Mini-Machine

NOTE Though acetone works well for this, it can be dangerous in terms of inhalation of fumes and potential fire hazard. A good nontoxic alternative is to use vinegar to clean the piece, then a sodium carbonate solution to neutralize the acetic acid in the vinegar, then water to wash out any residual base or salts. Heat application may help to remove residual moisture from the plug. Attach a chemically resistant dropper bulb to the open end. Prepare a flask of cleaning solvent. Draw in the solvent and squirt out through the plug until sufficiently clean. actives may potentially be salvaged from cleaning solvent collected over time. Scrub with a q-tip. Carefully blow out remaining solvent. Scrub out moisture with the other end of the q-tip. Ensure the absence of residual solvent prior to use.

• A handy method for storing the piece would be to cap the nozzle end with the dropper bulb in order to protect from breakage and keep track of the bulb to use when cleaning.
• The second gasket generally makes the piece safer to handle--especially if used as a pull stem--while the other provides a seal.
• For group sessions, it would be easiest to prepare an individual piece for each person so that dosage can be more easily regulated.
• When handling the piece after heating, handle by the gasket and avoid any part of the heated portion of the glass coming into any contact with hard surfaces.
• A good way to cool down a stem is to roll it rapidly between the palms, drawing the heat off the glass with one's hands.
• If the the nozzle end of the piece breaks off at any point, carefully push the plug to the other end of the piece when it has sufficiently cooled, heat the sharp edges until dulled, and push the plug back into place firmly, with a finger in place causing the plug to mushroom slightly until it fits snugly in place.
• Ensure adequate airflow through the piece by poking holes in the plug with a safety pin.
• Develop a relationship with the device.

Administration by Potentiation

Harmaloids

Trichocereus and Its Associated Molecules

Psilocybes

Reference

1. ↑ Bubbler Bowl Variation of "The Machine"
2. ↑ The Mini-Machine Bubbler Stem