|Note:||This page is a transcription of Noman's Tek. The content is to remain accurate as such.|
DMT for the Masses
… a mhrb extraction tek by Noman
An updated and edited reprint of the same-named article from The Entheogen Review, Autumnal Equinox 2006, Volume XV, Number 3, edited by noman and zhah March, 2007.
First things first. Performing this procedure is illegal in most countries. I do not advocate performing it where illegal and I do not perform it myself where illegal.
The intent of this tek is to simplify the extraction procedure as much as possible and make it doable for the average person in the average kitchen in an evening. While I think that I have accomplished this, it does not mean that one does not have to do their homework. You should read a few teks before deciding on one and research the chemicals and procedures that you will be using. I don’t give instructions for decanting, siphoning, and filtering, for example, because I assume that you have educated yourself on these simple procedures and that I don’t have to clutter up my tek with them. You should treat this procedure as a starting point from which it is up to you to discover the best way to proceed based upon the materials and equipment available to you.
Okay, so onward to DMT for the Masses.
Have fun, be safe, and share your findings!
- Dust mask, safety goggles and rubber gloves
- Mimosa Hostilis root bark
- A coffee grinder or heavy duty blender (one that will crush ice)
- Mixing jar – this should be glass with a wide mouth and a tight fitting lid. A quart jar can do 50g of bark, a gallon pickle jar can do 200g.
- Lye (granulated NaOH)
- Vinegar (for neutralizing lye spills)
- Naptha – get VM+P and not lighter ﬂuid
- Collection jars – 4 wide mouth 8 oz (250mL) jelly jars with lids
- Separating apparatus – a separatory funnel is easiest but siphoning and decanting will work fine.
- Coffee filters
- Rubber spatula
- Very cold freezer – should freeze ice cream HARD
- Non-sudsy ammonia – 10% solution, e.g. “janitorial strength” from Ace hardware, is optimal, but 5% “household strength” will do as well.
- Pulverize the bark until it’s just fiber and pink/purple dust. It should be snapped into small pieces and run through a coffee grinder or blender at high speed. You may need pruning shears to cut the bark small enough to grind properly. It needs to be completely broken down. The dust created is very fine and astringent to the respiratory tract. Unless you dig big cakey purple boogers, wear a mask.
- Mix 15mL water and 1g lye per gram of bark in the mixing jar. For example: 50g bark would require 750mL water and 50g lye. One level tablespoon of lye weighs about 15g, though this can vary considerably, better to use a scale. Note that lye is dangerous. Blind you forever dangerous. Wear eye protection and have a bottle of vinegar handy as a neutralizer and for clean up. Add the lye to the water slowly stirring constantly until completely dissolved.
- Add the powdered bark, cap and shake the jar and let the bark soak for awhile. An hour or so.
- Now add 1mL naptha per gram of bark in the mixing jar and turn the jar end over end. Do not shake or splash or there will be a tendency for the solution to form an emulsion. Simply roll the naptha around in the bark solution. Do this for one minute and then let the jar stand until the naptha has pretty much separated to the top.
Repeat agitation three more times.
- After the final agitation, separate the two layers. The naptha (top layer) goes in one of the collection jars, the rest stays in the mixing jar with the bark.
- Put the collection jar in the freezer.
- Repeat steps 4 to 6 three more times. Leave the last NP extraction in the jar for a day or two, agitating occasionally to pick up any strays.
- Go to bed. You should have a collection of snow globes waiting for you in the morning.
- Pour each jar of naptha out through a coffee filter. Save the naptha, which can be reused in the next batch or evaporated down producing a residue which can be further refined (see recrystallization below). A lot of paste will stick to the sides of the jar, so use a small rubber spatula to scrape the sides down onto the filter as well. Spread each filter out to dry. There will still be some residue in the jars, a bit of Salvia or MJ will scrub them out nicely.
- (There used to be another step here in the original Noman's Tek, the infamous 'ammonia wash', but it was removed with the consent of Noman, since it caused many problems of loss of yield and its a very innefective way of cleaning. DO NOT DO THE AMMONIA WASH. If one wants to clean the crystals (specially if some of the lye/bark solution came across accidentally when separating the solvent), what one can do is a sodium carbonate wash. This is done by redissolving the crystals in naphtha. Then separately, make a solution of water with a bit of sodium carbonate (no need to be accurate, just a pinch of sodium carbonate to, say, 50ml water). Then mix the sodium carbonate solution with the solvent containing the dmt, separate, discarding the water, and freeze the solvent. Voilá
You should be left with somewhere in the vicinity of 0.5% of the weight of the root-bark in DMT powder. It is perfectly smokable at this point, but it can be refined further by recrystallization. Although recrystallization inevitably results in loss of goods, once you’ve had a hit of DMT that left absolutely NOTHING behind in the pipe, you won’t want to use anything else.
The idea behind recrystallization is that solvents generally hold more solute when hot than cold and that the solubility of different solutes varies differently with temperature. If a solvent with a lot of different solutes dissolved in it cools down slowly, the different solutes will precipitate individually. Naptha will work for this but heptane is better. Heptane is available as Bestine – a rubber cement remover.
Place a glass container with the DMT and a glass container of the recrystallization solvent together in a pan of hot water. Shot glasses in a saucepan work well for a gram or two. The fumes from whatever solvent you use will be extremely ﬂammable, so don’t use a gas stove or light a bowl or be otherwise stupid. The DMT will already be melting if the water is hot enough. Add the hot solvent little by little (eye-dropper), agitating until all of the DMT is dissolved. Use as little solvent as possible. It should take only about 20–30mL of solvent per gram of powder. The solvent will be a clear yellow.
Leave the pan of water with the DMT container to cool to room temperature. Remove the DMT container and cool in the refrigerator, then the freezer. You will end up with DMT crystals of varying purity atop a pellet of slag which still contains quite a bit of DMT but also lye if you skipped the ammonia wash. Filter the solvent and separate the crystals from the slag. The crystals can be refined in one or two more recrystallizations into pure clear DMT if desired. The slag can also be further refined or simply redissolved into the next batch. The solvent can be reused or evaporated down and the residue scraped and cleaned.
And don’t forget to scrub those jars and utensils with your favorite smoking herb!
According to Noman himself he was working on a revision that would include the following: 
- "Get rid of that goddamn ammonia wash. My friend has never had trouble with it but it seems to cause problems for at least half the people that do it. I'll change it to a wash of the NP with a weak basic solution."
- "Note that if pre-powdered bark is being used, 1.5 - 2X of the water called for will be required."
- "Add that using heat for the last pull will increase yield. I left that out of the original for the sake of simplicity, but it probably should be mentioned."
- "Go into more detail about the freeze precip. When I wrote the tek, commonly available bark was of much higher quality. Now a partial evap is sometimes necessary to get the solution concentrated enough to precip."
Entropmancer advices the following to Noman: 
- "Noman, I have one suggestion regarding your tek. I think that calling for a bit less naphtha would make it so that peoples' extractions are concentrated enough to freeze-precip more often. (It may end up taking them one or two more pulls to get all the spice, but I think that easy freeze-precipitation is a good trade-off for one or two extra pulls).
SWIM found that when using somewhere around 0.4 mL of naphtha per gram of bark (doing every pull with heated naphtha), every pull except the last one freeze-precipitated easily. (This was with an A/B in a sep funnel, but I don't see why it wouldn't work as well with an STB)"
Pacman advices the following to Noman with all due respect: A new method of washing is now known that results is less loss of yield than the ammonia wash used in this tek. An example of this wash can be found here. . . http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Vovin's_tek#Step_7:_Washing
Kerberos would like to add to the advices given by Entropmancer: following Nomans tek and remarks regarding 1.5x water needed for powered root bark and Entropmancer advices regarding using less naphtha per pull. SWIM used 50g of root bark to 750ml of water and 75g of NaOH, SWIM then used .6ml of naphtha per gram of bark (.4ml did not give enough depth to the separation layer in the size jar SWIM was using) 7 pulls of 30ml (first pull 20ml) yielded the following pure white precipitation; 1)101mg 2)107mg 3)72mg 4)41mg 5)23mg 6)8mg 7)8mg and 40mg off the shot glasses used for the freeze precipitation for a total of 400mg, all pulls were with room temp naphtha.
FAQ Section -
1] How important is it to use fresh Naptha for each DMT extraction?
A] You'll get significantly better quality [r.e. pure white crystals] extractions if you use fresh Naptha for each extraction. Being eco-friendly and recycling is great and all that, but if you want to save the planet there's probably more productive ways in the long term than saving and reusing your naptha. It tends to get contaminated with other plant oils etc that reduce the amount of DMT that can enter the solution. Fresh Naptha will also mean that you don't get as much DMT-oxide, oils contaminating your final product and a better freeze precipitation.
2] Naptha recommended amount per gram of MHRB (from Entropymancer above)
A - Try 0.4ml per gram MHRB compared to 1ml and do a few more pulls. This will make the freeze precipitation better. The vast majority (rawmo personal experience) of DMT (expectedly perhaps) comes from the first pull, so if you have 2 containers for precipitation and are in a rush do the first pull in one and the rest in the other.
3] Recommendations on Evaporation
Minimize airflow above your final evaporation dish, [e.g. from fans]. Airflow turns DMT into DMT-oxide, which is yellow, sticky and apparently not as strong (or different effect) depending on who you talk to. If you want to make DMT oxide add Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) to your DMT later.
4] Lots of DMT-Oxide (yellow waxy goop) in the extraction
A - carry out a zinc powder extraction at ph3 on either the yellow DMT/DMT-oxide or do it before you carry out the base component of the extraction. Anecdotal reports say that MHRB (standardly rated at 0.57% DMT) can provide from 1-2% DMT if a zinc powder reduction is used beforehand.
P. viridis apparently has a high level of DMT oxide in it, so Zinc powder beforehand may produce better extraction results.
B - Don't blow a fan over your white crystals, they will go yellow and start absorbing water and go gooey.
C - Next time make up a vacuum unit. easy to do with 2 hoses (e.g. 18mm, 9mm, a tap attachment and a strong tuperware style or glass container with a hole drilled in it).
5] Separating the two layers [polar/non-polar]
A- use a separatory funnel if you can get one, or -
B - Syringes work well (get from needle exchange if you're comfortable with that)
C - Get some e.g. 9mm tubing from e.g. aquarium shops, a plastic bottle e.g. 1.5L. make a small hole in the bottle big enough for an airtight fit for the tube. Take off top from the bottle, expel air, replace cap. suck up Naptha into the bottle by returning it to its normal shape. Decant naptha into evap dish.
D - Turkey baster suck up. Buy off net.
E - Suck up with a hose using your lungs... like siphoning petrol, , it'll work, but probably hurt your brain long term.