Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek
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Note: | This page is a transcription of Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B *NO LYE/NO FUNNEL/NO FUSS* Tek[1]. The content is to remain accurate as such. |
Although SWIM has heard of others doing teks very similar than this and highly doubts any aspect of this tek is "new"... he felt like putting it together with pics and detailed info into a tek, which required a name and thus put his.
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Source Material:
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Solvents:
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Reagents/Desiccants:
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Equipment:
Useful Tools:
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The only 2 materials that aren't in 99% of household are:
1: Lime/Pickling Lime/Garden Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2. It is a powerful base that is actually food safe. Although like anything eating a lot of it will upset your body, but there isn't anything but traces of traces in the final product.
There dose seem to be a large amount of problems obtaining lime though. If it isn't at your local hardware store or ethnic grocery then you may have to look online. SWIM found a few sites that look like they would work. 5lbs (A LOT) for ~$10 plus shipping, ships worldwide 1 lb for $4.47 plus shipping, USA only
If those don't seem to work then googling "pickling lime" would be the next step. SWIM assures you the effort used to get the lime will far pay off with the ease, speed, efficiency AND SAFETY of the tek.
2: Naptha petroleum. A non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though it's toxicity is quite benign. The LD50 for naptha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.
Plus 2 things: 1. it evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple hours 2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.
Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which most house have around, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.
If you are in the US then VM+P Naptha is your choice. If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices. If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid test it: 1.Pour a little on a surface (SWIM used blank Cds) 2.Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and dry CD then the lighter fluid won't work.
If you still don't want to work with naptha, there is a food safe alternative tek using d-limonone. The tek will direct you when to scroll down for instructions on the alternative tek
(what your product will look like If you follow the tek)
[whitejn.jpg]
Contents
Procedure
Preparation:
[bowls.jpg]
The picture is not of the first step but does illustrate the set-up of the bowls.
-If your MHRB isn't powdered, use a blender to cut it in powder/fibers as small as possible
-Prepare Chopsticks, vinegar, lime and always have a source of boiling water or near-boiling water nearby.
-Ready 2 same-size bowls/containers that fit together.
-Boil some tap water and fill one of your bowls 1-2 inches with it, then place the second bowl on top. It is simply used as a gentle heat source instead of heating over a stove.
Note: The bottom water is never added to the top, only used as a warming bath.
Acidification:
This step is utilizing the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the bark into DMT acetate and in the process extract them into the vinegar.
[acidsoak.jpg]
-Take 10-150g powdered MHRB and place in your top bowl, the tek works best if the amount doesn't fill the container more than an inch or two.
- Yo can either heat some vinegar in kettle before adding it to the bark, or let the vinegar/bark mix heat up slowly via the water bath underneath. In either case it is 2ml for each gram of bark used. (IE: 200ml vinegar for 100g MHRB) A 50/50 mix of water and vinegar could probably work just as well, but vinegar is cheap so SWIM usually just uses it straight (Hydrochloric acid also works, simply add same amount of H2O then add several drops until the bark turns dark red)
-Stir the bark (chopstick works VERY well) until it is all wet. The bark should turn very red and be slightly watery.
-Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 30-60 minutes, more time won't hurt though.
-The bottom water likely has cooled somewhat by now. So separate the top and bottom bowls and replace the now-cooled bottom water with boiling water then place the bowl with the bark-mush on top again. Just to keep it warm
NOTE: if you skip this step the tek will still work, though it will require frequent mixing over a minimum of 2 days before a yield of >50% is achieved. Translation: This step isn't a necessity, but extremely useful. (Just buy the vinegar for 2 bucks)
Basification:
This process utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to freebase the DMT acetate into DMT freebase which is not water soluble, but is soluble in naptha
[crust.jpg]
-Add to the mix 1g of lime for every 2g of MHRB used. (IE: 75g lime for 150g MHRB) More lime will not hurt, it tends to make a slightly better consistency if it is closer to 1g lime per 1g MHRB, though if your lime stock is low just do 1g lime per 2g MHRB
-Start stirring and it should get pretty dry, add some boiling water a little splash at a time until it is gooey/easy to stir but not watery. DO IT SLOWLY. You can add more later, you can't instantly evaporate 20ml of water though.
-As long as it is mixed and stays warm (by replacing the water below periodlically) it should only take a 2-5 hours for 99% the alkaloids to freebase.
Note: The mix will form a "dark crust" that is fine. It does not affect the yield at all, it is a sign you are doing the tek right! It will actually tell you when most of the alkaloids are out. When there is no DMT left, the mix will not crust, but just stay dark!
If using the 100% food safe alternative method, scroll down to the big "100% food safe* and proceed with the "for full alkaloids"
Non-Polar Wash:
This step is to use naptha to dissolve the DMT and separate it from all that other gunk.
[naptha.jpg]
Note: If in a hurry this step can be done within 10-15 minutes of the lime being added and will likely get 20-30% of the DMT. But the first pull would be best done ~60 minutes to get a larger portion of the spice in the first pull, but the longer it is left the more will be pulled
Make sure the mix is warm or else very little DMT will be able to dissolve.
-Add enough naptha so you can see it on the sides. it would be about 1ml naptha per 1g of bark. This is a slight drawback of this method. lots of naptha is needed.
Excess naptha doesn't seem to be an issue, SWIM's naptha holds maybe 1mg DMT per 20ml naptha at room temp, so at freezing temp it holds what seems to be nothing.
-Stir the naptha around as thoroughly as you feel necessary over 10-20 minutes.
SWIM stirs it 2-3 times for about 30 seconds each over the 15-20 minutes it needs to sit and seems to get as much as the naptha can hold.
NOTE: Naptha evaporates very quickly, so do this in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan) and if it is left for a couple hours the naptha will all be gone
-It will take 2-4 washes to pick up 99% of the freebased DMT, though you can re-use the naptha several times.
-If after this the naptha still looks the same, don't worry. The naptha will be either clear or slightly slightly yellow.
Recrystallization:
This step works on the principal that naptha can dissolve DMT quite well when warm/hot but does can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naptha that holds the naptha is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals on the sides. The longer it takes to cool the larger the crystals. SWIM doesn't mind working with powder, the cards make it easy, so he just pops the naptha right in the freezer.
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-Decant off the naptha from the goo and into *your precipitation container*, to get the most out you can first pour off as much as you can by tilting the bowl, then hold the bowl just slightly tilted and whip the goo with your chopstick, this will knocks some more naptha out and you can pour it off. This will get at least 95% of the naptha out. *make sure to wipe the bottom of the container dry before pouring or else water will drip into your naptha* Since lime isn't corrosive like lye, the goo can be held back by hand, just wash your hands after.
*your precipitation container* SWIM finds it easiest to work with a small glass baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals. With shot glasses SWIM would get residue of 10+mg of DMT and that is with much more work than the baking tray.
-You can either add new naptha and do another "pull" by repeating the non-polar wash above after letting the mix stew for a while, or you can wait until the mix has precipitated all the crystals and re-use the naptha OR (much better) you can do a combination with 2-3 batches of naptha cycling from the bark to the freezer to the bark over a day or two.
-You can you can just pop the naptha straight into the freezer and you will get a fine powder or you can leave the naptha to cool at room temp for several hours, then several hours in the fridge, then into the freezer overnight and you will get slightly larger crystals.
-In a couple hours you will start seeing crystals forming. If the naptha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic dmt molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done, don't take it out yet unless you are going to do another pull with it. SWIM always leaves it overnight if he has time.
-Once you are satisfied with the snow-globe, take it out and pour off the naptha. It can be re-used! just put it back in the bark if you want. (It will evaporate quite quickly though, be aware o that) Make sure to pour it off slowly then find a place to lean the container against, the excess naptha will drip off and evaporate in a couple hours.
-Once it on longer smells like naptha you are ready. Use a razor or spoon or something and scrape it off. If you fold a card in half it work wonderfully for holding and transporting the crystals.
SWIM has done this twice and has gotten .923% of PURE WHITE off of 30g and .975% on 100g also pure white. Of course he immediately threw it all in the garbage, it is obviously illegal to possess.
