Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek
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Note: | This page is a transcription of Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B *NO LYE/NO FUNNEL/NO FUSS* Tek[1]. The content is to remain accurate as such. |
Although SWIM has heard of others doing teks very similar than this and highly doubts any aspect of this tek is "new"... he felt like putting it together with pics and detailed info into a tek, which required a name and thus put his.
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Source Material:
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Solvents:
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Reagents/Desiccants:
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Equipment:
Useful Tools:
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The only 2 materials that aren't in 99% of household are:
1: Lime/Pickling Lime/Garden Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2. It is a powerful base that is actually food safe. Although like anything eating a lot of it will upset your body, but there isn't anything but traces of traces in the final product.
There dose seem to be a large amount of problems obtaining lime though. If it isn't at your local hardware store or ethnic grocery then you may have to look online.
SWIM found a few sites that look like they would work.
5lbs (A LOT) for ~$10 plus shipping, ships worldwide
1 lb for $4.47 plus shipping, USA only
Mrs Wages Pickling Lime (USA only)
If those don't seem to work then googling "pickling lime" would be the next step. SWIM assures you the effort used to get the lime will far pay off with the ease, speed, efficiency AND SAFETY of the tek.
2: Naptha petroleum. A non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though it's toxicity is quite benign. The LD50 for naptha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.
Plus 2 things: 1. it evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple hours 2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.
Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which most house have around, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.
If you are in the US then VM+P Naptha is your choice. If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices. If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid test it: 1.Pour a little on a surface (SWIM used blank Cds) 2.Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and dry CD then the lighter fluid won't work.
If you still don't want to work with naptha, there is a food safe alternative tek using d-limonone. The tek will direct you when to scroll down for instructions on the alternative tek
(what your product will look like If you follow the tek)
Procedure
Preparation:
-If your MHRB isn't powdered, use a blender to cut it in powder/fibers as small as possible
-Prepare Chopsticks, vinegar, lime and always have a source of boiling water or near-boiling water nearby.
-Ready 2 same-size bowls/containers that fit together.
-Boil some tap water and fill one of your bowls 1-2 inches with it, then place the second bowl on top. It is simply used as a gentle heat source instead of heating over a stove.
Note: The bottom water is never added to the top, only used as a warming bath.
Acidification:
This step is utilizing the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the bark into DMT acetate and in the process extract them into the vinegar.
-Take 10-150g powdered MHRB and place in your top bowl, the tek works best if the amount doesn't fill the container more than an inch or two.
- Yo can either heat some vinegar in kettle before adding it to the bark, or let the vinegar/bark mix heat up slowly via the water bath underneath. In either case it is 2ml for each gram of bark used. (IE: 200ml vinegar for 100g MHRB) A 50/50 mix of water and vinegar could probably work just as well, but vinegar is cheap so SWIM usually just uses it straight (Hydrochloric acid also works, simply add same amount of H2O then add several drops until the bark turns dark red)
-Stir the bark (chopstick works VERY well) until it is all wet. The bark should turn very red and be slightly watery.
-Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 30-60 minutes, more time won't hurt though.
-The bottom water likely has cooled somewhat by now. So separate the top and bottom bowls and replace the now-cooled bottom water with boiling water then place the bowl with the bark-mush on top again. Just to keep it warm
NOTE: if you skip this step the tek will still work, though it will require frequent mixing over a minimum of 2 days before a yield of >50% is achieved. Translation: This step isn't a necessity, but extremely useful. (Just buy the vinegar for 2 bucks)
Basification:
This process utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to freebase the DMT acetate into DMT freebase which is not water soluble, but is soluble in naptha
-Add to the mix 1g of lime for every 2g of MHRB used. (IE: 75g lime for 150g MHRB) More lime will not hurt, it tends to make a slightly better consistency if it is closer to 1g lime per 1g MHRB, though if your lime stock is low just do 1g lime per 2g MHRB (If added 1g of lime for every 3g of MHRB, no spice will be pulled. 1g of lime for every 2g of MHRB is the minimum.)
-Start stirring and it should get pretty dry, add some boiling water a little splash at a time until it is gooey/easy to stir but not watery. DO IT SLOWLY (DO NOT use a mixer or blender of any sort). You can add more later, you can't instantly evaporate 20ml of water though.
-As long as it is mixed and stays warm (by replacing the water below periodlically) it should only take a 2-5 hours for 99% the alkaloids to freebase.
Note: The mix will form a "dark crust" that is fine. It does not affect the yield at all, it is a sign you are doing the tek right! It will actually tell you when most of the alkaloids are out. When there is no DMT left, the mix will not crust, but just stay dark!
If using the 100% food safe alternative method, scroll down to the big "100% food safe* and proceed with the "for full alkaloids"
Non-Polar Wash:
This step is to use naptha to dissolve the DMT and separate it from all that other gunk.
Note: If in a hurry this step can be done within 10-15 minutes of the lime being added and will likely get 20-30% of the DMT. But the first pull would be best done ~60 minutes to get a larger portion of the spice in the first pull, but the longer it is left the more will be pulled
Make sure the mix is warm or else very little DMT will be able to dissolve.
-Add enough naptha so you can see it on the sides. it would be about 1ml naptha per 1g of bark. This is a slight drawback of this method. lots of naptha is needed.
Excess naptha doesn't seem to be an issue, SWIM's naptha holds maybe 1mg DMT per 20ml naptha at room temp, so at freezing temp it holds what seems to be nothing.
-Stir the naptha around as thoroughly as you feel necessary over 10-20 minutes.
SWIM stirs it 2-3 times for about 30 seconds each over the 15-20 minutes it needs to sit and seems to get as much as the naptha can hold.
NOTE: Naptha evaporates very quickly, so do this in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan) and if it is left for a couple hours the naptha will all be gone
-It will take 2-4 washes to pick up 99% of the freebased DMT, though you can re-use the naptha several times.
-If after this the naptha still looks the same, don't worry. The naptha will be either clear or slightly slightly yellow.
Recrystallization:
This step works on the principal that naptha can dissolve DMT quite well when warm/hot but does can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naptha that holds the naptha is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals on the sides. The longer it takes to cool the larger the crystals. SWIM doesn't mind working with powder, the cards make it easy, so he just pops the naptha right in the freezer.
-Decant off the naptha from the goo and into *your precipitation container*, to get the most out you can first pour off as much as you can by tilting the bowl, then hold the bowl just slightly tilted and whip the goo with your chopstick, this will knocks some more naptha out and you can pour it off. This will get at least 95% of the naptha out. *make sure to wipe the bottom of the container dry before pouring or else water will drip into your naptha* Since lime isn't corrosive like lye, the goo can be held back by hand, just wash your hands after.
*your precipitation container* SWIM finds it easiest to work with a small glass baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals. With shot glasses SWIM would get residue of 10+mg of DMT and that is with much more work than the baking tray.
-You can either add new naptha and do another "pull" by repeating the non-polar wash above after letting the mix stew for a while, or you can wait until the mix has precipitated all the crystals and re-use the naptha OR (much better) you can do a combination with 2-3 batches of naptha cycling from the bark to the freezer to the bark over a day or two.
-You can just pop the naptha straight into the freezer and you will get a fine powder or you can leave the naptha to cool at room temp for several hours, then several hours in the fridge, then into the freezer overnight and you will get slightly larger crystals.
-In a couple hours you will start seeing crystals forming. If the naptha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic dmt molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done, don't take it out yet unless you are going to do another pull with it. SWIM always leaves it overnight if he has time.
-Once you are satisfied with the snow-globe, take it out and pour off the naptha. It can be re-used! just put it back in the bark if you want. (It will evaporate quite quickly though, be aware o that) Make sure to pour it off slowly then find a place to lean the container against, the excess naptha will drip off and evaporate in a couple hours.
-Once it on longer smells like naptha you are ready. Use a razor or spoon or something and scrape it off. If you fold a card in half it work wonderfully for holding and transporting the crystals.
SWIM has done this twice and has gotten .923% of PURE WHITE off of 30g and .975% on 100g also pure white. Of course he immediately threw it all in the garbage, it is obviously illegal to possess.
Procedure For Further Extraction / Food Safe
How to get the other alkaloids out/food safe alternative tek:
Doing the above steps will only yield the white N-N-Dimethyltryptamine. Generally with high quality inner root bark that is average 1%.
But the bark has a lot more than just that. Although mostly toxins that cause nausea when eaten, there are also some other psychoactive alkaloids similar to DMT.
-Yellow N-N-DMT-oxides and the Red "Jungle" alkaloids
Older bark will tend to have less white N-N-DMT and more N-N-DMT-oxides unless stored in dark-cold-airtight places. Never fret though, N-N-DMT-oxides are very useful for smoking and with pharmahuasca, producing noticeably different visual and mental effects though having similar durations.
Oxides, as they will we referred to from now on, are soluble in very hot naptha and d-limonene/xylene (cold or hot)
The "Jungle" alkaloids are a group of alkaloids that are not soluble in naptha at all and are slightly soluble in d-limonene and xylene. SWIM has yet to do a proper solubility test but he estimates 1-5mg/ml, although limonene will pick up a large amount of red junk that is NOT jungle.
Jungle when smoked is also similar in duration and method to N-N-DMT but noticeably different than N-N-DMT and oxides.
Both Jungle and Oxides are difficult to crystallize and are generally in the form of a thick and oily liquid. So working with them is much different than N-N-DMT.
This can be done either inserted before the "Non-Polar Wash" for a full alkaloid pull or JIMJAM spice or after the last non-polar washes is done then all the N-N-DMT should be out of the bark.
If you chose to not use the naptha you can still retrieve the smokable product but it makes this tek
100% food-safe
There are several methods to get a pure product so several will be mentioned.
For Full alkaloids or for Jimjam
Jungle + N-N-Oxides (+ white N-N-DMT to make full Jimjam if no naptha pulls done)
This method is much easier because no heat is needed (the alkaloids are soluble even at freezer temperatures), though it is longer with more steps.
Non-polar wash
While this tek will be food-safe with limonene, xylene can be used instead, in the exact same ways
-Add at least 1ml d-limonene for every gram of rootbark.
- The limonene can be re-used 2-3 times but each time will end up with a still-yellow limonene which is rich in a non-psychoactive red goo.*
-The limonene will turn yellow, similar to stale urine, as soon as it doesn't seems to be getting any darker then the limonene can be poured from the bark. This can take 20 minutes or can be left for a day or more, it is all about the color and the person's judgment. SWIM tends to leave it for an hour or two.
Although the mix contains much more than just the jungle and oxides, the limonene could be evaporated into a quite harsh and less potent smokable product or a freebase pharmahuasca base. (not too recommended, limonene leaves a bunch of stuff behind and takes FOREVER to evaporate)
If higher purity is the goal then follow the rest of the the tek.
Acid wash
The limonene will contain the jungle, the oxides and contains a lot of other junk that just happens to be soluble in limonene. So to make sure only the alkaloids are pulled out the alkaloids will be salted out of the solution with acidic water.
NOTE: Using a ziplock bag is NOT recommended by other Nexus members as it may lead to plastic and toxic compounds in one's final product, whether one can see it or not. The bag can be replaced by a separatory funnel, or just mixing in a standard HDPE/Glass container and decanting/pippetting
Place the limonene into in a zip-lock bag (Ziploc brand works, cheap ones will be destroyed by limonene/xylene)
-Take some Vinegar then pour some into the bag with the limonene. Heat does seem to help the process, SWIM tends to soak the bag in hot tap water for a minute or two, the amount of vinegar will dictate how long the process will take since it will need to be evaporated (SWIM uses 20-30ml per pull).
-Seal the bag and shake it, shake it, shake it. Takes 2-5 minutes. Once again the color is the judge. But it is A LOT harder in the step. Reason: The limonene will stay yellow with gunk. the acid will get yellow. But it takes a good eye, it is almost clear most of the time. (You can see in the picture above)
-Once done shaking, let the layers settle. Hold one of the corners of the bag so there is also a corner vertical to the floor, then get a pair of scissors. hold the bag over an empty container, or directly over a dish with a large surface area.
-cut a SMALL hole in the bottom corner of the bag. While the limonene gets close to the bottom then pinch the corner. The goal is not to get any on the top limonene with the bottom water, though a bit is no big deal.
-The acid wash should be repeated using new bags (I know, what a waste) until the acid no longer changes color. 2 times total is enough, the second pull can be less vinegar (10-15ml) if you'd like.
-You should have some limonene that has lost some of it's color but will likely still be slightly yellow with diluted red non-psychoactive goo.
-You should also now have some pale yellowish acidic water which contains all the alkaloids that are soluble in limonene in freebase but not in their acid-salt form, that narrows/purifies it a lot.
SWIM's testing suggests it is at least 95% DMT if not 100%
Evaporation/Freebasing
DMT-acetate is a somewhat unstable salt and because of that when heated to 90C-100C the acetate vaporizes off and leaves freebase DMT, this is the goal of the following.
Note: The boiling point of freebase DMT is NOT 60-80C as seen in records over the internet, pure white freebase DMT can be boiling in water without vaporizing thus boiling point is greater than 100C
(SWIM does this using a simple double-boiler although a food dehydrator could work too)
-Place the vinegar in a double-boiler (seen in the picture) and fill the bottom pot most of the way with tap water. Set to MAX (7-8 could work but slower) (Make sure the area isn't too dusty, the product loves to hang onto dust!)
-Check on the water level in the bottom pot and double-boiler every 10-20 minutes, it can take anywhere from 3/4 of an hour to a few hours depending on surface area and volume of water.
-Once the water is gone and a yellow, orange or red goo is seen (thicker = darker) continue to boil. Carefully remove the double boiling and give a sniff.
*if it smells like vinegar, it isn't done*
*if no vinegar can be smelled (only DMT) then remove from the heat*
The end product is gooey (hygroscopic) but is pure freebase Full-Alkaloid DMT
It can be: -Smoked as is. -Capped or dissolved in a drink as an ingredient for pharmahuasca -Re-dissolved in vinegar as a tincture as the DMT part of sublingual pharmahuasca (lingahuasca)
*The goo is pretty annoying to measure and work with, it'll stick to anything around, dust, dirt etc so be careful.*
-The easiest method SWIM has found for dealing with the goo is to dissolve it in 1ml boiling (or close to) water per 200mg of goo (more could be used, but it's a round number.
-Just use a medicine or eye dropper to measure the water, mix the goo well and likely not all of it will dissolve, that's expected. Suck the goo up and ideally put it in a tincture bottle (like herbal extracts come in)
-SWIM has not tested the long term stability of a tincture, He's currently only used it once.
But here is how it went: His dropper uses 20 drops per ml. So he swirled the bottle while taking a dropper-full, gently rocked the dropper and deposited 3 drops (30mg) on the copper of his "the-machine in bubbler stem* (amor-fati's machine-bubbler design)
SWIM surely could have waited for the drops to dry, but he figured smoking .15ml of vaporized water (OH NO!) wouldn't hurt. The experience was successful and very pleasant (jimjam tends to be) SWIM got up right after and sat at his (slightly morphing) computer screen because he was so excited it worked and wanted to post it.
- This information will be updated once more experiments have been done*
For only N-N-Oxides
This method, while much more difficult than the full-alkaloid can be used to take the Oxides directly from the bark and could be used for those without access to d-limonene/xylene
Non-polar wash
NOTE: BE CAREFUL AND NEVER HEAT NAPTHA DIRECTLY, SWIM HAS SET FIRE IN HIS KITCHEN AND BURNED HIS HAND AND WALL HEATING NAPTHA ON A STOVE!
-Use a boiling hot water bath to heat the lime-bark mush, it can be done the same way as in the earlier tek but should be hot, not warm to the touch. This can take a lot of stirring and boiling water.
-At the same time take either your container of naptha (WITH THE LID OFF!) or a bottle with some naptha in it (ALSO LID OFF!) and place it in a bath of hot tap water
-When the mush and naptha are both hot to the touch then they should be added together. The goal is to keep the whole mix as hot as possible because N-N-oxides are barley soluble in luke-warm water (unlike N-N-DMT) but are quite soluble in hot/boiling naptha.
-Do not let the mix cool too much, it will start precipitating the oxides as it gets closer to room temperature. within a minute or two the mix should be quite yellow. -as long as the mix is kept hot it can be mixed for 10-15 minute for best results. Though 2-3 minutes with thorough mixing will get a decent portion of product without risking excess cooling.
-Pour off the naptha from the bark into a precipitation container, ideally one with a large surface area because it will be a thick liquid, not crystals to be worked with. (Best: barking pan, flat bottom casserole dish)
Freeze Precipitation / Evaporation
The naptha can be either placed in the freezer, this will allow the re-using of the naptha although it will likely come out still yellow with some oxides still dissolved.
The alternative is to let the naptha evaporate, another reason for a large surface area. Just place the naptha in a place with good ventilation (a breeze) and some sun could help too (unless it is REALLY REALLY hot out)
SWIM recommends evaporation although each will yield a thick oily yellow goo.
a similar process can be done to the alkaloids after the full-alkaloid tek to seperate the Jungle Alkaloids and N-N-DMT-Oxide
-simply mix the goo with boiling naptha stir for a minute or two.
-Then take the naptha and leave it to evaporate on a dish with a large surface area. Left are pure N-N-DMT-Oxides Though it is goo it isn't really too harsh and the visuals are incredible compared to pure DMT (which is incredibly visual)
-The leftover goo will be pure red/brown jungle alkaloids.
This tek was inspired by: Noman whose tek on erowid inspired SWIM's first extraction 69ron and his mescaline tek that taught SWIM the power of lime amor_fati whose A/B lime to fumarate inspired me to try an acid step first. Anyone whose post I read and forgot who posted it, you all helped. Lye which is so toxic and nasty.
Links
- Nontoxic Extraction Experimentation Log w/ Photos (tek WIP)
- amor_fati's Nontoxic Approach to the Extraction of DMT (Forum link)
- Amor fati's Nontoxic Approach to Spice Extraction (Wiki link)
