Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek
This tek is not Q21Q21's original idea but rather a culmination of many people's ideas.
It is NOT perfect so if you can think of a better way to do ANY part of it the try it and PM me if it works!
The tek is written in first person but they are Q21Q21's words. (Q21Q21 being a fictional alien entity... with internet access)
This tek was inspired by:
Blueskine whose idea for freebasing acetates with heat changed my life!
Noman whose tek on erowid inspired my first extraction
69ron and his mescaline tek that taught me the power of lime
amor_fati whose tek inspired me to try a vinegar step and made the tek over 10x faster
SyZyGyPSy was the first person to report using limonene to extract spice
Chronic whose method of drying of the mush to a crumbly powder solved the lost-solvent issue
Anyone whose post was read and forgot who posted it, you all helped.
Lye which is so toxic and nasty.
_____________________
Contents
Introduction
As a comprehensive guide there's lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.
If you would like to get right into the "What do I do?" then you can start by reading the Super-short Compressed Tek. (Then the full tek later)
Tek 1 (Uses xylene/d-limonene)
Tek 2 (Uses naphtha)
Background Information
The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark
While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis (abbreviated as MHRB)
Mimosa Hostilis is a shrub that contains N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT) and 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids (and some TINY amounts of NMT) in its root-bark .
For information about where to purchase this bark (I recommend pre-powdered MHRB).
Visit the Suppliers sub-forum
Make sure to do a thorough search before posting a new thread please.
Info about the 3 types of DMT contained in MHRB
Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information.
Methods: Pharmahuasca, Mucosahuasca or Smoking
White N-N-DMT
(Click the arrow beside the thumbnail to view the full size image, same with all thumbnails)
(DMT I extracted from Tek 2)
White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT) is pure DMT. MHRB usually contains about 1% of its weight in White DMT, though yields from extractions of less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.
In the past the ultimate goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just White DMT in it.
Red "Jungle" DMT
"Jungle" DMT is also contained in the bark but cannot be extracted into crystals like White DMT
Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produces effects similar in duration and effects to White DMT.
I strongly believe the yellow DMT which MANY people prefer to pure White DMT is in fact small amounts of Jungle DMT mixed with the White DMT
An analysis was done on this Jungle DMT and it is mostly (95%) DMT. Nonetheless I and many others still believe Jungle DMT produces noticeably different effects.
Yellow DMT-N-oxide
Crystallized DMT-N-oxide made with peroxide and white DMT
DMT-N-oxide was previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, but in fact Oxides seems unlikely to be present in the extracted DMT in significant amounts at all. (as I mentioned I believe that yellow is Jungle DMT)
I and many others have smoked DMT which has been in ambient air for months/years without any significant loss of potency.
Considering my tests (using the Oxides in the picture) suggest Oxides are about 1/3 or less potent than white DMT or jungle DMT when smoked (waiting on replication of this test to be positive though) then I conclude Oxides are insignificant and need not be worried about.
Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product
If all the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum product called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during the tek.
Jimjam is considered by many to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though yields from extractions of more than 2% are not unheard of.
DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like Jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries - make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.
About the 2 teks
Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naphtha they will be referred to as "the solvent"
In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used.
Tek 2 uses naphtha (lighter fluid) while
Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner)
Naphtha needs to be heated to dissolve or else it won't dissolve anything but its unique solubility properties allow for White DMT to be crystallized out when it is cooled in a freezer. Tek 2 thus involves a heating-step and a freezer-step that Tek 1 does not have. However, naphtha does not dissolve Jungle DMT very well so the extracted product will be almost entirely white DMT and leave the Jungle DMT in the MHRB.
D-Limonene and xylene dissolve both white DMT and Jungle DMT at room temperate so Tek 1 doesn't need a heating step.
Because of that it will yield full-spectrum product Jimjam DMT but since it is soluble, even when the solvent is cold, freezer precipitation doesn't work, so one of many different methods can be used to isolate the Jimjam DMT from the solvent.
Useful to know: If d-limonene is used, the tek will be
*100% food-safe*
For a first-timer Tek 2 may be better advised than Tek 1 because it is a lot harder to mess up. (You can do a Tek 1 pull later on a Tek 2 extraction later)
That being said, both teks are quite simple - comparable to baking a cake - and will work extremely well for extracting the DMT using no lye (drain cleaner).
A little info on Lime
The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is
a replacement for lye which is very caustic and toxic.
THIS TEK WILL NOT WORK WITH LYE, IT IS ONLY MADE FOR LIME
Known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.
Until recently using caustic and toxic Sodium Hydroxide (lye, drain cleaner) was the only option as the base when extracting DMT. Lye is very potentially dangerous
"Solid sodium hydroxide or solutions of sodium hydroxide may cause chemical burns, permanent injury or scarring if it contacts unprotected human, or other animal, tissue. It may cause blindness if it contacts the eye. Protective equipment such as rubber gloves, safety clothing and eye protection should always be used when handling the material or its solutions...
...It also produces heat when reacted with acids. Sodium hydroxide is corrosive to some metals, e.g. aluminum, which produces flammable hydrogen gas on contact." From Wikipedia
These Teks instead use Lime. Lime is a powerful base that is actually food safe. It is powerfully alkaline so take care not to get it in your eyes or inhale it and wash your hands after touching it.
There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities.
Here are some tips:
Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums.
So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores. Local availability varies all the way from none to lots depending on country/location.
If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.
If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally, this site is great .
Mrs Wages Pickling lime
That brand is known to be excellent but you may find better deals by googling "buy pickling lime online" (without quotes).
The effort used to get the lime will far pay off with the ease, speed, efficiency AND SAFETY of the tek.
Tek 1: The Jimjam party
Materials required:
IMPORTANT:
The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, "It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."
Extraction Specific:
30g or more Mimosa Hostilis root bark (MHRB)
250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH)
30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2)
125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene
one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve)
one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark)
Some Sealable and shakeable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel
one Turkey baster (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve)
one Stove or Kettle
one Pot or Pan
Useful tools
one or more Funnels
one Rice cooker
one Baking pan/large surface area container
one or more razor blades/scrapers
one blender (unless you buy, pre-powdered bark)
Tincture tools
one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml
one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml)
one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses
one spoon
one lighter/candle/heat source
Preparation:
Step 0: If your MHRB isn't powdered, use a blender to cut it into powder/fibers as small as possible
Note:Household blenders tend to blend bark to fibres rather than powders bark so the the consistency may be different than the descriptions in the tek.
Step 1: Prepare your supplies
Chopsticks/Spoon: Chopsticks work best for 100g or less MHRB while a spoon works better for more than 100g.
Your container, it can be a glass or HDPE2 sealed container for shaking/rolling to mix or on open container for stirring. (The fact that the sealed container works is recently discovered so the tek may say stir when someone using a sealed container would shake/roll)
Have nearby: vinegar, hot/boiling water, lime.
Lastly have everything else needed for the tek available and have the tek open an a computer for quick reference.
Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts #1, #2, #3) HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but but glass would be the safest choice.
Acidification:
This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary
Note 1:this step does not need to be too "exact"
Step 1: Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 30g-50g is recommended)
Step 2: Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.
Step 3: Then slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other. The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes, add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (It will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB)
Step 4: Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes. (Longer won't hurt though) YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY
Note 2: If you were to choose not the acidification step, thus doing a STB lime tek, it would work... but would take periodic stirring over a minimum of 2 days before a significant yield will be achieve and several days more for the rest
The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the tek to be utilized.
Basification:
This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary
MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!
Step 1: Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB)
(More lime will not hurt.)
Adding it bit-by-bit and mixing will be easier to mix, but you can dump it all in if you want.
(For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g)
Step 2: Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure-white lime is mix and there is no more red. Add very small amounts of water if needed to achieve a moist and consistent mixture.
Note 1: The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing that is fine. It is completely normal.
Step 3: Create the right consistency.
The ideal consistency is not super exact. There are 2 main options for consistency. Consistency 1 will work 100% as well as Consistency 2, it may absorb more solvent than Consistency 2.
There will be inevitable solvent loss regardless but my estimate is anywhere from 25%-40% reduction in solvent loss using Consistency 2 which in a 100g MHRB extraction might be 50-80ml less solvent lost. If solvent supplies are plentiful then there should be no problem using Consistency 1 or Consistency 2, remember that they can be RE-USED many times.
Consistency 1: Add water (if needed) to make the mix look like anywhere from thick oatmeal too kinda like thick pea-soup. Both will work fine. If it is like tomato soup that's too soupy!
Step 3a: if it is too dry add some tap water a TINY TINY splash at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it is JUST moistened throughout
Step 3b: if it is too wet add more lime a little bit at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it thickens and dries to the right consistency
Consistency 2: Either let the mix dry until crumbly (Like the top of an apple crisp) or dry it in the oven (in an oven-safe container!) at 95C or the lowest setting until crumbly.
You don't want it bone-dry because it will absorb more solvent than Consistency 1, if it does get bone-dry then just add some water to make it crumbly.
Non-polar Wash:
Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted
Note 1: The tek is designed to do each step directly after another without any waiting periods except those that are steps.
The first pull if done immediately after getting the lime-bark to one of the consistencies shouldould yield anywhere from 10%-35% (in my experience.) If the first pull is done after 6-8 hours however it will likely yield 25%-60%.
2 pulls done around 24 hours and 48 hours (or later) should be enough to get 80%-90% of the DMT (In my experience).
Pulls after that tend to be rather small but I highly recommends doing pulls at 1 week and another at 2 or 3 weeks to get all the DMT possible.
Step 1: Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g)
This can be done immediately following the addition of the lime or anywhere up to several days later.
Note 2: Bark will slowly absorb a noticeable portion of the solvent, this is common.
Step 2: Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mush as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.
Mix it well several times over 10-20 minutes. That is all that is needed to dissolve the DMT-freebase in to the solvent. YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY
I like to think of using the non-polar solvent like using water to dissolve some salt. Though the salt will not instantaneously become saturated with salt, it will in a few minutes. Same with the solvent, it is the bark and lime that works for hours, not the solvent.
Step 3: Pour the solvent from the bark into your seal-able and shakable container through a funnel with a cotton ball (to filter bark particles which cause emulsions) You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent. Pouring usually gets 90% or more.
It will always require several pulls to get all the DMT. There are 2 ways you can approach the multiple pulls
Step 4a: While the first batch of solvent is being salted you can add new solvent and do another "pull", repeating the non-polar wash.
Step 4b: Wait until you are done the removing the DMT from the solvent then re-use with only the single batch of solvent. (recommended)
Alternative Next-Steps
Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method.
There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in BLAB (Step 4) by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead. (Step 6c should be able to be done without using sodium carbonate but rather just dissolving the gooey-acetates in acetone according to my tests)
↓My method is below↓
Acid wash/Salting:
This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.
Step 1: Pour some vinegar into the container with the solvent. About 1 shot-glass full.
Step 2: Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefers to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. There is sometimes a small bubbly layer of emulsion that take a long time to resolve.
Agitate it and the top layer, the solvent, will start to cloud with DMT-acetate floating around. over a period of at least 2 minutes, for the process to complete. Don't leave it for over 10 minutes because after a while oils and gunk can migrate to the vinegar/water
Step 3: Use a turkey baster to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container.
If you don't get all the vinegar don't worry.
Step 4:Next add a shot or two of hot tap water to the solvent, and agitate it for about a minute.
Step 5: Use a turkey baster again to suck out the water and combine it with the vinegar.
Evaporation:
The "easy way" to do this would be to simply evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smoke-able product, just note that this product will be very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air
The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all the DMT and as long as it is sealed it maintains a consistent concentration making dosing a very simple matter of 4 drops, 7 drops, 11 drops, etc
This step is just to concentrate the alkaloids down to a dense and more-workable product
There are many methods to do this step but I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar-saltings into one cause it is makes the house smell very vinegar-y and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times.
My currently used method is simple. Step 1: Filter the vinegar and pour it in a pot.
Step 2: Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 75-100ml
Step 3: Lower the heat to medium and watch it carefully until it is around 20-30ml
Step 4: Use a dropper or baster and move the liquid to a smaller container (like in the picture) and evaporate it down until it looks similar to the picture.
Note: There will likely be some particles in the liquid, I used a cotton ball stuffed in a 5ml dropper to filter the tiny amount of liquid. But you could just leave them, they should just sink to the bottom.
The tincture can vary largely depending on your technique, it can be anywhere from 1-8mg per drop (20mg to 175mg per ml), 4-7 per drop is common after this step. The maximum concentration so that it is still a thin water-like liquid is about 8-9mg per drop.
The more concentrated the tincture, the quicker it is to prepare for smoking, but precision goes down.
IE: if a tincture is 8mg per drop then one can't make a 20mg dose, only 16mg or 24mg while 5mg per drop can make 15mg, 20mg or 25mg. But 3 drops will evaporate faster than 5. My tinctures are 4-5mg per drop and work very well for speedy evaporation and accurate dosing.
Note: if the result of the evaporations are extremely small or nothing at all (Smaller than match-head of goo after evaporating the vinegar from pulls done >2 hours after adding the lime) then check out Common issues/Troubleshooting because that should not happen.
Measuring the tincture:
Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.
Quantitative Concentration (numerical):
-drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster
-put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!
-Once it no longer flows when held upright the element is turned off and let to sit until cool enought to handle then the coaster removed.
-goo is scraped up with a razor and measured using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.
Divide the number by 10 and the concentration per drop is calculated.
Drops don't vary too much but assume an error of up to +/- 5% to be safe
ie: 8 drops @ 5mg per drop = 38-42mg
Note: don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change
Qualitative Concentration (subjective):
This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca
Use the method below to evaporate 2 drops of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. (See next section for instructions)
If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 3 drops, then 4, 5, Etc. until adequate effects are achieved.
Concetration will then be
*number* drops = Mild
*number* drops = Strong
*number* drops = Breakthrough
*number* drops = ????
If the tincture is not at a satisfactory concentration then you can concentrate it down some more.
Freebasing for Smoking:
DMT-acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and because of that when heated to 90C-100C the acetate vaporizes off and leaves freebase DMT, this is the goal of the following. This method can take as little as 30-45 seconds and from experience it is faster and as precise and accurate or more than using an expensive .001g scale to dose by weight
Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!
Basically all that is needed is to evaporate the tincture at 90-100C until there is no vinegar left, this produces freebase jimjam DMT.
There are 2 methods I've successfully used many times
1: Using a spoon with a lighter or candle underneath seems to be the fastest and easiest method.
As much as it might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is very effective and is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.
2: A FLAT glass coaster works in combination with CAREFUL indirect heating from beneath with either a lighter or put on a stove element on MIN. (using this method the end product can be scraped up with a razor)
In each method the process is the same.
The liquid will evaporate with steam, possibly some bubbling and strong smell of vinegar. Once the water is close to gone watch it closely and don't heat constantly, only in bursts until the bubbling stops and/or it looks like all the water is gone.
You just want it to LOOK like a goo, the smell isn't the best indicator because it will continue to smell of vinegar for a minute after freebasing, then it will smell like DMT and often faintly of vinegar.
If you see smoke (not steam) STOP. Don't be too worried because the window of temperature is not that narrow between freebasing and vaporizing, I've NEVER seen smoke or lost a noticeable amount of product in the process.
It can be scraped up using the copper from "the machine" or a tiny bit of rolling paper for smoking it from. Even a finger can be used to collect it and transfer it to the smoking device (Caution: hot!).
Sometimes it is too liquidy immediately after freebasing and need to cool slightly before scraping.
Smoking:
Unless you think you know everything about smoking DMT it is highly advised that you click this link and read the page.
I remember when I extracted DMT for the very first time and wasted 10-15 doses using improper smoking methods and he believes this page can help reduce waste, frustration and redundant "how do I smoke" threads
Super-short Compressed Tek 1
You need:
Lime (Ca(OH2)
vMHRB
Vinegar
D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)
First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction) When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.
Next add at least 3:4 ratio lime to bark. IE: 75g or more lime for 100g MHRB Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick pea soup. Not too wet and not bone dry so you see dry lime all over. Let it sit for about an hour, stirring periodically.
Add about 1.5 to 2ml solvent for every 1g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent. Stir the solvent around all the bark. Stir periodically over 5-10 minutes.
Gently pour off the Solvent (might need to use coffee filter) into a separate solvent-safe container.
There are many ways to finish this tek. Next step is here
Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest
About Naphtha
Naphtha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though its toxicity is quite benign. Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.
The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naphtha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.
Plus 2 things:
1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple hours
2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.
Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.
If you are in the US then VM+P Naphtha is your choice.
If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices.
If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it:
1.Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs)
2.Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.
(what your product will look like If you follow the tek)
Materials required:
IMPORTANT:
The lime, the vinegar, the naphtha and MHRB MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it "It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD"
Two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naphtha won't dissolve/degrade)
one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best)
one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation
one freezer
30g or more Mimosa Hostilis root bark (MHRB)
50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH)
Some Lime Ca(OH)2
100ml or more Naphtha
one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)
Useful tools
a few Playing cards
one or more razor blades/scrapers
Some coffee filters
one blender (unless you buy, pre-powdered bark)
Preparation:
Step 0: If your MHRB isn't powdered, use a blender to cut it into powder/fibers as small as possible
Note:Household blenders tend to blend bark to fibres rather than powders bark so the the consistency may be different than the descriptions.
Step 1: Prepare your supplies
Chopsticks/Spoon: Chopsticks work best for 100g or less MHRB while a spoon works better for more than 100g.
Your container, it can be a glass or HDPE2 sealed container for shaking/rolling to mix or on open container for stirring. (The fact that the sealed container works is recently discovered so the tek may say stir when someone using a sealed container would shake/roll)
Have nearby: vinegar, hot/boiling water, lime.
Lastly have everything else needed for the tek available and have the tek open an a computer for quick reference.
Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts #1, #2, #3) HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but but glass would be the safest choice.
Acidification:
This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary
Note 1:this step does not need to be too "exact"
Step 1: Take 30g-500g powdered MHRB and place in your container.
Step 2: Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.
Step 3: Then slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other. (Approximately: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB)
Step 4: Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes. (Longer won't hurt though) YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY
Note 2: If you were to choose not the acidification step, thus doing a STB lime tek, it would work... but would take periodic stirring over a minimum of 2 days before a significant yield will be achieve and several days more for the rest
The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the tek to be utilized.
Basification:
This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary
MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!
Step 1: Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB)
(More lime will not hurt.)
Adding it bit-by-bit and mixing will be easier to mix, but you can dump it all in if you want.
(For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g)
Step 2: Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure-white lime is mix and there is no more red. Add very small amounts of water if needed to achieve a moist and consistent mixture.
Note 1: The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing that is fine. It is completely normal.
Step 3: Create the right consistency.
The ideal consistency is not super exact. There are 2 main options for consistency. Consistency 1 will work 100% as well as Consistency 2, it may absorb more solvent than Consistency 2.
There will be inevitable solvent loss regardless but my estimate is anywhere from 25%-40% reduction in solvent loss using Consistency 2 which in a 100g MHRB extraction might be 50-80ml less solvent lost. If solvent supplies are plentiful then there should be no problem using Consistency 1 or Consistency 2, remember that they can be RE-USED many times.
Consistency 1: Add water (if needed) to make the mix look like anywhere from thick oatmeal too kinda like thick pea-soup. Both will work fine. If it is like tomato soup that's too soupy!
Step 3a: if it is too dry add some tap water a TINY TINY splash at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it is JUST moistened throughout
Step 3b: if it is too wet add more lime a little bit at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it thickens and dries to the right consistency
Consistency 2: Either let the mix dry until crumbly (Like the top of an apple crisp) or dry it in the oven (in an oven-safe container!) at 95C or the lowest setting until crumbly.
You don't want it bone-dry because it will absorb more solvent than Consistency 1, if it does get bone-dry then just add some water to make it crumbly.
Non-Polar Wash:
Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naphtha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is is essential if a pure product is to be extracted
CAUTION: Naphtha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do this in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan) Also if it is left for a several hours the naphtha will all be gone
Note 1: The tek is designed to do each step directly after another without any waiting periods except those that are steps.
The first pull if done immediately after getting the lime-bark to one of the consistencies shouldould yield anywhere from 10%-35% (in my experience.) If the first pull is done after 6-8 hours however it will likely yield 25%-60%.
2 pulls done around 24 hours and 48 hours (or later) should be enough to get 80%-90% of the DMT (In my experience).
Pulls after that tend to be rather small but I highly recommend doing pulls at 1 week and another at 2 or 3 weeks to get all the DMT possible.
Step 1: Put the top/smaller bowl into the bottom/larger bowl and add enough boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the top bowl, either that or just until the top bowl floats. This is very simply to warm the naphtha indirectly and safely.
Step 2: Add enough naphtha so you can see it on the sides. It should be 1ml naphtha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naphtha or more for 100g MHRB) The naphtha should stay completely separate from the bark and remain transparent.
*The naphtha does NOT need to be hot, only warm (feel the bowl, not the naphtha)*
Step 3: Stir the bark around with the naphtha thoroughly and periodically until it is warmed from the water underneath. Once warm 5-10 minutes is all that is needed. YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY
I like to think of using the non-polar solvent like using water to dissolve some salt. Though the salt will not instantaneously become saturated with salt, it will in a few minutes. Same with the solvent, it is the bark and lime that works for hours, not the solvent.
Step 4: Pour off the naphtha from the bark-goo and into *your precipitation container* to get naphtha out pour off as much as you can by tilting the bowl, this will get at least 90% of the naphtha out and there is no need to get 100% of it.
*make sure to wipe the bottom of the container dry before pouring or else water will drip into your naphtha*
If after this step the naphtha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry.
The naphtha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow unlike the deep-yellows and sometimes browns you may see in STB teks.
*your precipitation container*
I find it easiest to work with a small glass baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals.
You can use any naphtha-safe container though.
Recrystallization:
This step works on the principal that naphtha can dissolve DMT-freebase quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naphtha with DMT-freebase dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.
Step 1: Just pop the naphtha straight into the freezer.
You can do a recrystallization later for larger crystals, but for the initial step it is best to just put the naphtha in the freezer right away.
Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but expect your freezer to smell like naphtha for a day or two whether you do or not. I usually to leave it uncovered.
It will always require several pulls to get all the DMT-freebase. There are 2 ways you can approach the multiple pulls
Step 2a: While the first batch of naphtha is in the freezer you can add new naphtha and do another "pull", repeating the non-polar wash.
Step 2b: Wait until the mix has precipitated all the crystals and re-use only the single batch of naphtha.
In either case it will require 2-3 pulls to get about 90% of the DMT, likely over 5 pulls to get over 98%.
Step 3: Keep the naphtha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming.
If the naphtha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT-freebase molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.
Step 4: Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take it out and pour off the naphtha. Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors, fumes) place to lean the container against, the excess naphtha will drip off and evaporate in a couple hours.
Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, usually just SLOWLY pouring the naphtha off works, you may need to pour it through a coffee filter to get all the crystals though.
Note 1: If the first 2 pulls don't cloud or precipitate crystals after 8-12 hours then check something in the extraction did not work correctly. Check Common issues/Troubleshooting because that should not happen.
Note 2:there may be a small film underneath the crystals. The film is soluble in vinegar and I am pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT
Once it no longer smells like naphtha the DMT-freebase is ready.
Storage:
You can either scrape the DMT up and store in a mini-ziplock bag or any other small sealable container as is.
A playing card folded with a crease down the middle works very well for moving the crystals around.
The other option is to dissolve it in vinegar as a tincture.
(Most will probably keep it as is, but the tincture method is worth mentioning)
I personally prefer the tincture because it is easier to measure, keep, transport, smoke and it can be filtered for the utmost purity.
If a tincture is to be made then all you need to do is dissolve everything in the precipitation container in a minimal amount of vinegar, the liquid will need to be evaporated down until it starts getting deep-yellow.
There is a lot more information on tinctures in Tek 1
Super-short Compressed Tek 2
You need:
Lime (Ca(OH2)
MHRB
Vinegar
Naphtha
Freezer
First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction) When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.
Next add at least 3:4 ratio lime to bark. IE: 75g or more lime for 100g MHRB Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistancy of cookie dough to thick pea soup. Not too wet and not bone dry so you see dry lime all over. Let it sit for about an hour, stirring periodically.
Make sure the bark mush is warm. Cold naphtha is very poor at dissolving DMT. You can use anything gentle to heat, hot water bath or crock pot on LOW. Naphtha is FLAMABLE so do not use anything with a flame or an element on anything but LOW. Add about 1ml naphtha for every 1g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. Stir the naphtha around all the bark. Stir periodically over 5-10 minutes.
Gently pour off the naphtha (might need to use coffee filter) into a container which will go in the freezer. I use an 8 inch pyrex cake pan. If the naphtha is at a low level in the container you may want to wrap it in saran wrap to prevent evaporation
In a couple hours the naphtha should get cloudy. Slowly over 8-24 hours the DMT will precipitate out of the naphtha and form crystals on the container. When the naphtha is no longer cloudy then gently and but quickly pour the naphtha off the crystals (may need coffee filter). Put the container on its side to allow the naphtha to evaporate. Watch the sun because the crystals will melt into a goo at about 40C or so.
When the crystals no longer smell of naphtha they are ready to smoke or whatever. Keep in a dime bag or something.
Common issues/Troubleshooting
If the first 2 pulls (or pulls >2 hours after adding lime) don't seem to be yielding much or any DMT then there are a few questions you can ask to find the issue:
Question 1: Was your lime Calcium Hydroxide (Ca(OH)2)?
Solution 1: If the answer was "no" (look up MSDS) then real lime will need to be added in the amount mentioned in the tek as well as enough water to create the correct consistency.
This error can cause the tek to become a STB rather than an A/B. Lime STB teks take 36-48 hours for the solvent to pull a significant amount of DMT so that may end up being what happens.
Questions 2: Was the mush mixed thoroughly enough? Was it too dry?
Solutions 2: A little more water or mixing if done quickly may immediately fix the problem but may create a STB situation metioned in Solution 1.
Questions 3:(Tek 2 only) Is your naphtha suitable for use in freezer-precipitating DMT? (less likely) Did you use way too much?
Solutions 3: If No to the first, look up the MSDS on the naphtha or look up previous forum posts (avoid making entirely new post if possible).
If No to the 2nd you may need to evaporate a portion of the naphtha (not with heat, use fan to speed up room-temp evaporation) I've never had to do that though.
Question 4: Was the vinegar added regular white vinegar suitable for this extraction?
Solution 4:If no, this will cause a STB situation mentioned in Solution 1
Question 5: Is your MHRB actually MHRB which contains DMT?
Solution 5: Buy some real MHRB. Though with all the sources reviewed in the supplier forum I have never seen this as a problem.
Good luck in all your life's endeavors!
