Difference between revisions of "Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek"

Revision as of 00:19, 6 January 2011

Q21Q21's Tek: A comprehensive guide to the extraction of DMT

As a comprehensive guide there is lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract the DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.

The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark

While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis

It is a shrub that contains Pure DMT and a 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids in its root-bark (abbreviated as MHRB). The goal of the Tek is to extract the pure alkaloids from the MHRB.

For information and where to post about where to purchase this bark (after a thorough search to see if the information is already posted)
Visit the Suppliers sub-forum

General info about the types of DMT:

Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information. Methods: Pharmahuasca, Mucosahuasca or Smoking

White N-N-DMT

(DMT from Tek 2)

White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT) is pure DMT. It is generally up to 1% of the weight of the bark, though less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.

In the past the goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just that to extract. There are some toxins that cause nausea when eaten, some inactive chemicals and lots of plant matter. But more interesting and more important are 2 other psychoactive alkaloids with similar effects (which some consider preferable) to White DMT.

Yellow DMT-N-oxide

Crystallized DMT-N-oxide

DMT-N-oxide While previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, actually Oxides may or may not be present in the MHRB and thus may or may not be in the end product. It is a fact that White DMT does oxidize into DMT-N-oxide when exposed to ambient air for extended periods of time.
Oxides (by SWIM's tests) are about 1/3 or less potent than white DMT or jungle DMT when smoked but equally potent when used in pharmahuasca.

Red "Jungle" DMT

Red Jungle DMT freebase

The "Jungle" alkaloids are a group of alkaloids contained in the bark.

Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produce effects similar in duration and somewhat similar effects to N-N-DMT but noticeably different.
Contrary to what some believe there is nothing "dark" about the effects of Jungle DMT, at least no more than any DMT. The effects are just somewhat different, but more or less like DMT

Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product

If the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum alkaloid mix called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during the tek.

Jimjam seems to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though more than 2% is not unheard of.

DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries, make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.

About the 2 Teks:

Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naptha they will be referred to as "the solvent"

In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used.
Tek 2 uses naptha (lighter fluid) while Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner)

Tek 2 will always need heating and naptha does not dissolve the Oxides or Jungle DMT from the MHRB

With limonene/xylene used in Tek 1 it negates the need for any heating, which is potentially unsafe.
Also it will yield a full-spectrum product (Jimjam)

Most notable: If limonene is used, the tek will be

*100% food-safe*

(Xylene works the same but STINKS and isn't food-safe)

Despite SWIM's preference for Tek 1, each tek will work extremely well for extracting the DMT using no lye.

A little info on Lime

The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is a replacement for lye which is extremely caustic and toxic.

THIS TEK WILL NOT WORK WITH LYE, IT IS ONLY MADE FOR LIME

Known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.

Lime is a powerful base that is actually food safe. Although like anything eating a lot of it will upset your body. But not to worry. If anything at all there would be only traces of traces in the final product.

There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities.
Here are some tips:
Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums.
So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores, local availability varies all the way from none-to-lots depending on country/location
If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.

If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally, This site is great .
Mrs Wages Pickling lime
That brand is known to be excellent but you may find better deals by googling "buy pickling lime online" (without quotes) .

The effort used to get the lime will far pay off with the ease, speed, efficiency AND SAFETY of the tek.

Tek 1: The Jimjam party

Procedure

Materials required:

Extraction Specific:
30g or more Mimosa Hostilis root bark (MHRB)
250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH)
30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2)
125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene
one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve)
one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark)
Some Seal-able and shakable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel
one Turkey baster (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve)
one Stove or Kettle
one Pot or Pan

Useful tools
one or more Funnels
one Rice cooker
one Baking pan/large surface area container
one or more razor blades/scrapers
one blender (unless you buy, pre-powdered bark)

Tincture tools
one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml
one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml)
one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses
one spoon
one lighter/candle/heat source

Preparation:

Step 0: If your MHRB isn't powdered, use a blender to cut it into powder/fibers as small as possible

Step 1: Prepare your supplies

Chopsticks/Spoon: Chopsticks work best for 100g or less MHRB while a spoon works better for more than 100g.

Your container, 1000ml per 100g of MHRB would be a good general number, since this is a STIRRING tek instead of a SHAKING tek there can be spashing if the container is too small

Have nearby: vinegar, hot/boiling water, lime.

Lastly have everything else needed for the tek available and have the tek open an a computer for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts #1, #2, #3) HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but but glass would be the safest choice.

Acidification:
This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar.

Note 1:this step does not need to be too "exact"

Step 1: Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 30g-50g is recommended)

Step 2: Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

Step 3: Then slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other. The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes, add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (It will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB)

Step 4: Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes. (Longer won't hurt though)

Note 2: Without using this step, thus doing a STB lime tek, does work but will take periodic stirring over a minimum of 2 days before a significant yield will be achieve and several days more for the rest

The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the tek to be utilized.

Basification:
This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water

MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!

Step 1: Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB)
(More lime will not hurt.)

Adding it bit-by-bit and mixing will be easier to mix, but you can dump it all in if you want.
(For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g)

Step 2: Stir it well

Step 3: Create the right consistency.
Consistency is very important in this step if the mix is not wet throughout the DMT-acetate molecules may not all be converted to DMT freebase, while if it is too wet it will form an impossible-to-work-with emulsion when the solvent is added.

The ideal consistency is moistened throughout but thick enough to make a hole in the middle of the mush.
(Like in the picture above)

Step 3a: if it is too dry add some tap water a TINY TINY splash at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it is JUST moistened throughout

Step 3b: if it is too wet add more lime a little bit at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it thickens and dries to the right consistency

Note 1: The mix may form a "dark crust" on the top that is fine. It does not affect the yield at all.

Note 2: After the mix has been mixed thoroughly while wet/moist some find it easier to work with (SWIM included) if the mix is dried either by spreading it out on a sheet and letting it dry and/or adding lots of excess lime then crumbling it into a bowl in dried chunks/crumbs. In either case although this would create a superfluousness in time or lime needed in the Tek, it can help the mixing of the non-polar wash step and may reduce the absorption of the solvent in the bark.

Non-polar Wash:
Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted

Note: The tek is designed to do each step directly after another without any waiting periods except those that are steps. If doing all the steps and re-using the solvent after removing the DMT from it (explained later) the first 2-4 pulls will leave adequate time for the freebasing of the DMT by the lime to saturate each pull. A final pull 24 hours or more later should be enough to get 85%-90% of the DMT. Getting the last 10-15% will take about an equal amount of pulls and effort to extract as the 85-90%, SWIM tends not to bother.

Step 1: Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g)
This can be done immediately following the addition of the lime or anywhere up to several days later.

Note: Bark will slowly absorb a noticeable portion of the solvent, this is common.

Step 2: Mix the solvent around the bark very thoroughly, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

Mix it well several times over 10-20 minutes. That is all that is needed to dissolve the DMT-freebase in to the solvent. SWIM likes to think of using the non-polar solvent like using water to dissolve some salt. Though the salt will not instantaneously become saturated with salt, it will in a few minutes. Same with the solvent, it is the bark and lime that works for hours, not the solvent.

Step 3: Pour the solvent from the bark into your seal-able and shakable container. (A funnel may need to be used)

Don't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, that tends to lead towards getting tiny pieces of bark-mush in the container. Pouring usually gets 90% or more.

It will always require several pulls to get all the DMT. There are 2 ways you can approach the multiple pulls
Step 4a: While the first batch of solvent is being salted you can add new solvent and do another "pull", repeating the non-polar wash.

Step 4b: Wait until you are done the removing the DMT from the solvent then re-use with only the single batch of naptha. (recommended)

In either case it will require 2-3 pulls to get about 90% of the DMT, likely over 5 pulls to get over 98%.

As for how long to wait between pulls. The amount of time it takes to salt and re-use 3 pulls will be plenty of time for 85-95% of the DMT to be freebased and dissolvable

Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides SWIM's method. There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in BLAB (Step 4) by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead.

SWIM's method is below

Acid wash/Salting: -

This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.

Step 1: Pour some vinegar into the container with the solvent. About 1/8 of the volume of the solvent is a good amount (doesn't have to be precise though).

Step 2: Seal the container and agitate it a bunch (emulsions settle quickly). SWIM prefers to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage.

Agitate over a period of no less than 2 minutes and the top layer, the solvent, will start to cloud with DMT-acetate floating around.

Step 3: Next add some warm or hot tap water to the solvent, about the same amount as the vinegar used, and agitate it for about a minute.

Step 4: Use a turkey baster to suck out the vinegar-water (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container.
Try to avoid getting the solvent, but a couple drops are not too big a deal. If you don't get all the vinegar don't worry.

Note: The solvent will very likely still be cloudy, don't worry. It will remain cloudy until ABSOLUTELY ALL of the DMT is salted out and it will take copious amounts of water pulls for that. The steps above are all that is needed to salt out 90% or more of it.

Evaporation:

The "easy way" to do this would be to simply evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smoke-able product, just note that this product will be very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air

The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all the DMT and as long as it is sealed it maintains a consistent concentration making dosing a very simple matter of 4 drops, 7 drops, 11 drops, etc

This step is just to concentrate the alkaloids down to a dense and more-workable product

-Any method that heats the product and doesn't go significantly over 100�C will work fine, food dehydrator, crock pot, simple double boiler.

-SWIM's favorite is a rice cooker. It pops when it is done and doesn't go over 100�C.

-SWIM second most used method is a baking pan suspended over a boiling pot of water, a simple double boiler.

Step 1: Begin evaporating the vinegar-water that was separated from the solvent.

It will get darker and eventually redder and redder when the water is almost gone (less than 5 ml) it will start to get thicker. You can stop it when it starts getting a little thick or fully evaporate it. Either way just make sure it doesn't get heated way over 100�C then remove from the heat.

Note: pouring tiny amounts of liquid doesn't work very well, using droppers/basters is the best way to transport them

Step 2a: If you evaporated it down just to a red liquid, your tincture is ready to go. (unless you need to concentrate it more)
Just mix it around and make sure most of the goo in the pan has been dissolved. Add minimal amounts of water to dissolve if it isn't a clear solution.

Step 2b: If it was fully evaporated re-dissolved the goo in a MINIMAL amount of vinegar.
The product requires some mixing around but easily dissolves in the vinegar.

The tincture can vary largely depending on your technique, it can be anywhere from 1-8mg per drop (20mg to 175mg per ml), 4-7 per drop is common after this step. The maximum concentration so that it is still a thin water-like liquid is about 8-9mg per drop.

The more concentrated the tincture, the quicker it is to prepare for smoking, but precision goes down.
IE: if a tincture is 8mg per drop then one can't make a 20mg dose, only 16mg or 24mg while 5mg per drop can make 15mg, 20mg or 25mg. But 3 drops will evaporate faster than 5. SWIM's tinctures are 4-5mg per drop and work very well for speedy evaporation and accurate dosing.

Measuring the tincture:

Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.

Quantitative Concentration (numerical):

-drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster
-put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!
-Once it no longer flows when held upright the element is turned off and let to sit until cool enought to handle then the coaster removed.
-goo is scraped up with a razor and measured using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.

Divide the number by 10 and the concentration per drop is calculated.
Drops don't vary too much but assume an error of up to +/- 5% to be safe
ie: 8 drops @ 5mg per drop = 38-42mg

Note: don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change

Qualitative Concentration (subjective):
This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca
Use the method below to evaporate 2 drops of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. (See next section for instructions)
If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 3 drops, then 4, 5, Etc. until adequate effects are achieved.
Concetration will then be
*number* drops = Mild
*number* drops = Strong
*number* drops = Breakthrough
*number* drops = ????

If the tincture is not at a satisfactory concentration then you can concentrate it down some more.

Freebasing for Smoking:

DMT-acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and because of that when heated to 90C-100C the acetate vaporizes off and leaves freebase DMT, this is the goal of the following. This method can take as little as 30-45 seconds and from experience it is faster and as precise and accurate or more than using an expensive .001g scale to dose by weight

Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!

Basically all that is needed is to evaporate the tincture at 90-100C until there is no vinegar left, this produces freebase jimjam DMT.

There are 2 methods SWIM has successfully used many times

1: Using a spoon with a lighter or candle underneath seems to be the fastest and easiest method.
As much as it might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is very effective and is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.

2: A FLAT glass coaster works in combination with CAREFUL indirect heating from beneath with either a lighter or put on a stove element on MIN. (using this method the end product can be scraped up with a razor)

In each method the process is the same.
The liquid will evaporate with steam, possibly some bubbling and strong smell of vinegar. Once the water is close to gone watch it closely and don't heat constantly, only in bursts until the bubbling stops and/or it looks like all the water is gone.
You just want it to LOOK like a goo, the smell isn't the best indicator because it will continue to smell of vinegar for a minute after freebasing, then it will smell like DMT and often faintly of vinegar.

If you see smoke (not steam) STOP. Don't be too worried because the window of temperature is not that narrow between freebasing and vaporizing, SWIM has NEVER seen smoke or lost a noticeable amount of product in the process.

It can be scraped up using the copper from "the machine" or a tiny bit of rolling paper works very well even a finger can be used to collect it and transfer it to the smoking device (Caution: hot!).
Sometimes it is too liquidy immediately after freebasing and need to cool slightly before scraping.

Smoking:

Unless you think you know everything about smoking DMT it is highly advised that you click this link and read the page.

SWIM remembers when he extracted DMT for the very first time and wasted 10-15 doses using improper smoking methods and he believes this page can help reduce waste, frustration and redundant "how do I smoke" threads

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Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest

This tek is the original tek, it works very well for what it does, though SWIM prefers Tek 2, it still works for a high yield of white DMT.

About Naptha
Naptha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though it's toxicity is quite benign. Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.
The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naptha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.

Plus 2 things:
1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple hours
2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.

Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.

If you are in the US then VM+P Naptha is your choice.
If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices.
If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it:
1.Pour a little on a surface (SWIM used blank CDs)
2.Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.

(what your product will look like If you follow the tek)

Materials required:
two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naptha won't dissolve/degrade)
one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best)
one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation
one freezer
30g or more Mimosa Hostilis root bark (MHRB)
50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH)
Some Lime Ca(OH)2
100ml or more Naptha
one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)

Useful tools
a few Playing cards
one or more razor blades/scrapers
Some coffee filters
one blender (unless you buy, pre-powdered bark)

Preparation:

Step 0: If your MHRB isn't powdered, use a blender to cut it into powder/fibers as small as possible

Step 1: Prepare your supplies

Chopsticks/Spoon: Chopsticks work best for 100g or less MHRB while a spoon works better for more than 100g.

Your container, 1000ml per 100g of MHRB would be a good general number, since this is a STIRRING tek instead of a SHAKING tek there can be spashing if the container is too small

Have nearby: vinegar, hot/boiling water, lime.

Lastly have everything else needed for the tek available and have the tek open an a computer for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts #1, #2, #3) HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but but glass would be the safest choice.

Acidification:
This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar.

Note 1:this step does not need to be too "exact"

Step 1: Take 30g-500g powdered MHRB and place in your container.

Step 2: Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

Step 3: Then slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other. (Approximately: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB)

Step 4: Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes. (Longer won't hurt though)

Note 2: Without using this step, thus doing a STB lime tek, does work but will take periodic stirring over a minimum of 2 days before a significant yield will be achieve and several days more for the rest

The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the tek to be utilized.

Basification:
This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in naptha (a non-polar solvent) and not soluble in water

MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!

Step 1: Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB)
(More lime will not hurt.)

Adding it bit-by-bit and mixing will be easier to mix, but you can dump it all in if you want.
(For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g)

Step 2: Stir it well

Step 3: Create the right consistency.
Consistency is very important in this step if the mix is not wet throughout the DMT-acetate molecules may not all be converted to DMT freebase, while if it is too wet it will form an impossible-to-work-with emulsion when the solvent is added.

The ideal consistency is moistened throughout but thick enough to make a hole in the middle of the mush.
(Like in the picture above)

Step 3a: if it is too dry add some tap water a TINY TINY splash at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it is JUST moistened throughout

Step 3b: if it is too wet add more lime a little bit at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it thickens and dries to the right consistency

Note 1: The mix may form a "dark crust" on the top that is fine. It does not affect the yield at all.

Note 2: After the mix has been mixed thoroughly while wet/moist some find it easier to work with (SWIM included) if the mix is dried either by spreading it out on a sheet and letting it dry and/or adding lots of excess lime then crumbling it into a bowl in dried chunks/crumbs. In either case although this would create a superfluousness in time or lime needed in the Tek, it can help the mixing of the non-polar wash step and may reduce the absorption of the solvent in the bark.

Non-Polar Wash:
Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naptha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is is essential if a pure product is to be extracted

CAUTION: Naptha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do this in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan) Also if it is left for a several hours the naptha will all be gone

Note: The tek is designed to do each step directly after another without any waiting periods except those that are steps. If doing all the steps and re-using the solvent after removing the DMT from it (explained later) the first 2-4 pulls will leave adequate time for the freebasing of the DMT by the lime to saturate each pull. A final pull 24 hours or more later should be enough to get 85%-90% of the DMT. Getting the last 10-15% will take about an equal amount of pulls and effort to extract as the 85-90%, SWIM tends not to bother.

Step 1: Put the top/smaller bowl into the bottom/larger bowl and add enough boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the top bowl, either that or just until the top bowl floats. This is very simply to warm the naptha indirectly and safely.

Step 2: Add enough naptha so you can see it on the sides. It should be 1ml naptha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naptha or more for 100g MHRB) The naptha should stay completely separate from the bark and remain transparent.

*The naptha does NOT need to be hot, only warm (feel the bowl, not the naptha)*

Step 3: Stir the naptha around periodically and thoroughly until it is warmed from the water underneath. Once warm 5-10 minutes is all that is needed.

SWIM likes to think of using the non-polar solvent like using water to dissolve some salt. Though the salt will not instantaneously become saturated with salt, it will in a few minutes. Same with the solvent, it is the bark and lime that works for hours, not the solvent.

Step 4: Pour off the naptha from the bark-goo and into *your precipitation container* to get naptha out pour off as much as you can by tilting the bowl, this will get at least 90% of the naptha out and there is no need to get 100% of it.
*make sure to wipe the bottom of the container dry before pouring or else water will drip into your naptha*

If after this step the naptha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry.
The naptha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow unlike the deep-yellows and sometimes browns you may see in STB teks.

*your precipitation container*
SWIM finds it easiest to work with a small glass baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals.
You can use any naptha-safe container though.

Recrystallization:
This step works on the principal that naptha can dissolve DMT quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naptha with DMT dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.

Step 1: Just pop the naptha straight into the freezer.
You can do a recrystallization later for larger crystals, but for the initial step it is best to just put the naptha in the freezer right away.

Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but expect your freezer to smell like naptha for a day or two whether you do or not. SWIM usually to leave it uncovered.

It will always require several pulls to get all the DMT. There are 2 ways you can approach the multiple pulls
Step 2a: While the first batch of naptha is in the freezer you can add new naptha and do another "pull", repeating the non-polar wash.

Step 2b: Wait until the mix has precipitated all the crystals and re-use only the single batch of naptha.

In either case it will require 2-3 pulls to get about 90% of the DMT, likely over 5 pulls to get over 98%.

Step 3: Keep the naptha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming.
If the naptha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.

Step 4: Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take it out and pour off the naptha. Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors, fumes) place to lean the container against, the excess naptha will drip off and evaporate in a couple hours.
Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, usually just SLOWLY pouring the naptha off works, you may need to pour it through a coffee filter to get all the crystals though.

Note:there may be a small film underneath the crystals. The film is soluble in vinegar and SWIM is pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT

Once it no longer smells like naptha the DMT is ready.

Storage:

You can either scrape the DMT up and store in a mini-ziplock bag or any other small sealable container as is.
A playing card folded with a crease down the middle works very well for moving the crystals around.

The other option is to dissolve it in vinegar as a tincture.
(Most will probably keep it as is, but the tincture method is worth mentioning)

SWIM personally prefers the tincture because it is easier to measure, keep, transport, smoke and it can be filtered for the utmost purity.
If a tincture is to be made then all you need to do is dissolve everything in the precipitation container in a minimal amount of vinegar, the liquid will need to be evaporated down until it starts getting deep-yellow.
There is a lot more information on tinctures in Tek 1

Good luck in all you're life's endeavors!

This tek was inspired by:
Blueskine whose idea for freebasing acetates with heat changed SWIM's life!
Noman whose tek on erowid inspired SWIM's first extraction
69ron and his mescaline tek that taught SWIM the power of lime
amor_fati whose A/B lime to fumarate inspired me to try an acid step first.
Anyone whose post I read and forgot who posted it, you all helped.
Lye which is so toxic and nasty.