Difference between revisions of "Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek"

Introduction

As a comprehensive guide there's lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.

If you would like to get right into the "What do I do?" then you can start by reading the Super-short Compressed Tek. (Then the full tek later)
Tek 1 (Uses xylene/d-limonene)
Tek 2 (Uses naphtha)

Background Information

The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark

While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis (abbreviated as MHRB)

Mimosa Hostilis Plant, Whole Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark (MHRB), Shredded MHRB, Powdered MHRB

Mimosa Hostilis is a shrub that contains N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT) and 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids (and some TINY amounts of NMT) in its root-bark .

Discussions about suppliers of MHRB are no longer allowed on the DMT-Nexus, so it's best to do outside-Nexus searches for suppliers.

An extremely important note is that I have tried about 10x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and failed each time. Powdered MHRB is the only thing I'd recommend to buy as most blenders cannot powder MHRB properly.

Info about the 3 types of DMT contained in MHRB

Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information.
Methods: Pharmahuasca, Mucosahuasca or Smoking

White N-N-DMT


White DMT I extracted using Tek 2

White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT) is pure DMT. MHRB usually contains about 1% of its weight in White DMT, though yields from extractions of less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.

In the past the ultimate goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just White DMT in it.

Red "Jungle" DMT

Thick dark red Jungle DMT extracted from by fully depleting the MHRB using naphtha, then pulling with xylene

"Jungle" DMT is also contained in the bark but cannot be extracted into crystals like White DMT

Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produces effects similar in duration and effects to White DMT.
I strongly believe the yellow DMT which MANY people prefer to pure White DMT is in fact small amounts of Jungle DMT mixed with the White DMT.
I think the cause of this is because Jungle DMT is ever so slightly soluble in naphtha. An analysis was done on this Jungle DMT and it is mostly (95%) DMT. Nonetheless I and many others still believe Jungle DMT produces noticeably different effects.

Yellow DMT-N-oxide

Crystallized DMT-N-oxide made with peroxide and white DMT

DMT-N-oxide was previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, but in fact Oxides seems unlikely to be present in the extracted DMT in significant amounts at all. (as I mentioned I believe that yellow is Jungle DMT)
I and many others have smoked DMT which has been in ambient air for months/years without any significant loss of potency.
Considering my tests (using the Oxides in the picture) suggest Oxides are about 1/3 or less potent than white DMT or jungle DMT when smoked (waiting on replication of this test to be positive though) then I conclude Oxides are insignificant and need not be worried about.

Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product

Jimjam DMT I extracted using Tek 1 with d-limonene

If all the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum product called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during Tek 1.

Jimjam is considered by many to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though yields from extractions of more than 2% are not unheard of.

DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like Jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries - make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.

About the 2 teks

Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naphtha they will be referred to as "the solvent"

In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used.
Tek 2 uses naphtha (lighter fluid) while Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner but also used to dissolve HIPS 3D-printing supports)

(Vegetable oil can also apparently be used for Tek 1, you can search the Nexus for the many long threads talking about using it as a solvent)

Naphtha needs to be heated to dissolve or else it won't dissolve anything but its unique solubility properties allow for White DMT to be crystallized out when it is cooled in a freezer. Tek 2 thus involves a heating-step and a freezer-step that Tek 1 does not have. However, naphtha does not dissolve Jungle DMT very well so the extracted product will be almost entirely white DMT and leave the Jungle DMT in the MHRB.

d-limonene and xylene dissolve both white DMT and Jungle DMT at room temperate so Tek 1 doesn't need a heating step.
Because of that it will yield full-spectrum product Jimjam DMT but since it is soluble, even when the solvent is cold, freezer precipitation doesn't work, so one of many different methods can be used to isolate the Jimjam DMT from the solvent.

Useful to know: If d-limonene is used, the tek will be

*100% food-safe*

Note:d-limonene still smells very strong and lingers in your house

For a first-timer Tek 2 may be better advised than Tek 1 because it requires fewer steps and is well-suited for very small test batches like 30g-50g MHRB. I recommend Tek 1 for larger batches.

That being said, both teks are quite simple - comparable to baking a cake.

A little info on Lime

The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is
a replacement for lye which is very caustic and toxic.

lime is known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.

Until recently using caustic and toxic Sodium Hydroxide (lye, drain cleaner) was the only option as the base when extracting DMT. Lye is very potentially dangerous

These Teks instead use Lime. Lime is a powerful base that is actually food safe. It is powerfully alkaline so take care not to get it in your eyes or inhale it and wash your hands after touching it.

There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities.

'Here are some tips:
Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums.
So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores.

Local availability varies all the way from none to lots depending on country/location.
If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.

If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally. Look on the internet for something and confirm that it is pure Ca(OH)2 before purchasing it from a reputable vendor.

If I haven't made this clear enough, let me end this section with a final clarification: You MUST use proper lime for this tek to work! Make sure you do, good luck!

Tek 1: The Jimjam party

Materials required:

IMPORTANT:
The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek. The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials. This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, "It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."

Extraction Specific:
30g or more Mimosa hostilis root bark (MHRB)
250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH)
30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2)
125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene
one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve)
one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark)
Some Sealable and shakeable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel
one Turkey baster or pipette(HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve)
one Stove or Kettle
one Pot or Pan

Useful tools
one or more Funnels
one Rice cooker
one Baking pan/large surface area container
one or more razor blades/scrapers
one or two high quality mason jars

Tincture tools
one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml
one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml)
one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses
one spoon
one lighter/candle/heat source

Preparation:

Step 1: Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: #1, #2, #3) HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

Acidification with Vinegar:

This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

Step 1: Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

Step 2: Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

Step 3: Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

Step 4: Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I do not recommend skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

Basification with Lime:

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.

MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!

Step 1: Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

Step 2: Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

Step 3: Create the right consistency.

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent:

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear d-limonene solvent floating on top

Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

When to do your pulls:

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

Step 1: Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g)

Step 2: Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

If you have it in a bowl: mix with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

If you have it in a sealable container: you can just roll the container around in your hands to mix it.

Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

Mix it well several times over 40-60 minutes. (I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY.

Step 3: Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

If you have it in a bowl Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

If you have it in a sealable container: Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Note:Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

Alternative Next-Steps

Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method. There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in BLAB (Step 4) by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead.

↓My preferred method is below↓

Salting with Vinegar:

Cloudy d-limonene floating on top of yellowish vinegar

This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.

Note 1: Xylene and D-Limonene are very leaky, most containers will eventually start leaking during the salting process. I recommend high quality mason jars that you’ve tested the lids to make sure the solvent doesn’t react with.

Step 1: Pour some vinegar into the sealable container with the solvent. About 2 shot glasses full.

Step 2: Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefer to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. Emulsions in this step always resolve pretty easily. No need to be careful.

Agitate the container 3-4 times over 40-60 minutes. The solvent will quickly start to get cloudy and the vinegar will gradually get more yellow.

You don’t have to wait until the solvent gets clear, it doesn’t seem to relate to the process being finished.

Step 3: Use a turkey baster/pipette to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container. As with the other liquid separations, 90% is okay.

Note 2: Try to get as little of the solvent during the separation as possible. This solvent will leave plant oils and other junk in your end product. That being said, a 1mm layer of solvent atop your vinegar is common using this method.

Step 4: Repeat steps 1-3 once in exactly the same way, combine the separated vinegar pulls in a sealable container. Keep it safe because any spill will be a loss of lots of DMT!

For those that want DMT as soon as possible, proceed immediately on to the condensing step after Step 4.

Step 5: For those more patient/lazy, plan for your next non-polar solvent use.

The most efficient/least effort extraction:

Non-polar pull #1 - 6-8 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

Non-polar pull #2 - 24 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

Non-polar pull #3 - 48 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

~the above 3 pulls should contain 80-90% of the total DMT~

Combine all of the vinegar from pulls 1-3 and proceed to the condensing step.

Non-polar pull #4 - 1 week after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

Non-polar pull #5 - 2-3 weeks after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

~the 5 pulls together should contain at least 95% of the total DMT~

Combine all the vinegar from pulls 4-5 and do another condensing.

Condensing/Tincture Making:

The process of condensing vinegar from light yellow liquid to a dense red tincture (all pulls from 500g MHRB)

This step is just to concentrate the vinegar containing the DMT down to a dense liquid "tincture" which can easily measure dosages by number of drops.

The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all of your DMT maintaining a consistent concentration. This tincture will keep indefinitely, I have used the same for 3+ years with no loss of potency.

Note 1: You could technically evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smokeable product. But that would result in a goo which is very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air.

A far more useful alternative to a vinegar tincture would be making a more traditional tincture using ethanol. See this section for information about making one.

There are many steps to do in the condensing, so I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar saltings into one because it makes your house smell very vinegary for a few hours and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times. Moreover, combining tinctures changes their concentrations, requiring re-measuring.

Step 1: Filter the vinegar through a cotton ball in a funnel, then add a bit of water to wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball and pour it all in a pot.

Step 2: Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 40-50ml

Step 3: Remove the pot from heat, then use a dropper to carefully filter the liquid through a cotton ball then wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball again with water

Step 4: Lower the heat to medium low and watch it carefully until it is around starts to become red in color.

Note 2: You can estimate the resulting liquid based on the amount of MHRB used. The combined vinegar from 3 solvent pulls will result in roughly 1tsp/5ml for every 100g MHRB used at 10mg/drop. Generally it's much less liquid than you expect, especially if you're used to dosing with crystals.

Step 5: As the liquid becomes redder and redder, before the liquid is all gone, remove the pot from heat, tip the pot to the side and use a dropper to transfer your tincture to a dropper bottle.

It is a delicate balance of not removing all liquid, but getting a good concentration. It is best to aim for a little less liquid than a little more for 2 reasons:

You’ll need to rinse the pot with a few mL of water to get all the DMT off, adding additional liquid to the tincture

Adding more liquid is extremely simple, while removing liquid means doing the condensing again.

A tincture can vary hugely based on a few factors. The color is a simple general indicator of the concentration. Here are pictures of 3 different concentration levels:

5mg per drop

10mg per drop

15mg per drop

More concentration can be done, but tinctures will get thicker and thicker until they are a thick goo (at room temperature) of pure DMT at around 50mg per drop.

For those wanting a more formal measurement of the concentration, proceed on to next optional section.

Measuring the tincture:

Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.

Quantitative Concentration (numerical):

- Drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster.

- Put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!

- Once the liquid has dissolved and it smells strongly, but not of vinegar, turn off the element and let it sit until cool enough to handle.

During the cooling, measure the weight of a razor blade using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.

- Remove the coaster from the element then scrape up the goo with a razor and measured using the scale.

- Subtract the weight of the razor blade then divide the number by 10 and that is the concentration per drop.

- Label the tincture with the concentration.

Note: Don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change!

Qualitative Concentration (subjective):
This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca
- Use one of the methods from the next section to evaporate 1 drop of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked.
- If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 2 drops, then 3, 4, etc. until adequate effects are achieved.
- Concentration will then be
*number* drops = Mild
*number* drops = Strong
*number* drops = Breakthrough
*number* drops = Too Strong!

- Label the tincture with the recommended drops for a dosage.

Evaporation and Smoking:

Preparing a dose using the slow method and smoking DMT off copper using a home-made glass pipe and home-made glass bong

After evaporating all the liquid from some of the tincture you are left with nearly pure DMT acetate goo. DMT acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and decomposes into freebase DMT with heat, so it is readily smokable (and doesn't taste like vinegar)

The Slow and Patient Method

Simply put a number of drops of tincture for a single dose of DMT on your smoking material and let it dry for a few hours before smoking.

Smoking materials:

Neutral Herb (Mullien, Peppermint)

Maoi Containing Herb (Caapi, Passionflower)

Pre-torched Ceramic Fiber Ball

Pre-Charred Copper Kitchen Scrubber Ball

Silicon Carbide Ceramic Foam

Caution: Vinegar on copper may result in smoking small amounts of copper acetate which is not good for you. I cannot formally recommend this method for long term health without more information/research

The Hot and Quick Method

Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!

1: On Glass - Stove/Oven Method

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a flat glass coaster (I got my from the dollar store and then removed the rubber feet and glue from the bottom)

- Put the glass onto an electric stove element or into an oven at AS LOW AS POSSIBLE (do not use a gas stovetop)

- After the liquid evaporated and it doesn’t smell of vinegar it is ready. Usually about 1-2 minutes or 5 for fewer drops

- You can either:

a: Scrape up the liquid with a razor blade and transfer it to any smoking material

b: Let the glass cool to the touch then scrape it up with some herb/copper mesh

Note: hot DMT-acetate goo is very liquidy and hard to scrape up, the closer to room temperature it is, the thicker and easier it will be to scrape up.

2: With a Spoon - Lighter/Candle Method

Note:As much as this method might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a spoon then heat it from below with a lighter or candle flame. Be careful not to heat too quickly or it will spatter and DMT some will be lost.

- Continue to heat until the liquid has all gone and you’re left with a thin red liquidy goo that smells strongly but not of vinegar. A hot spoon will rapidly evaporate excess liquid without a flame below, so you can stop heating slightly before the process is finished.

- Carefully scrape up the goo with some herb/copper mesh. It’s usually best to let it cool for at least 30s before doing so to avoid burning yourself and allowing the goo to cool and thicken.

A quick warning about stability.

I would caution anyone against making lots of doses ahead of time with the slow or quick method because DMT-acetate seems somewhat unstable outside the tincture.

In an area with average temperature of 30ºC and regular indirect sun exposure it took DMT-acetate on stainless steel mesh 2 months to degrade to under 25% potency.

I have recently started tests on sun exposure vs no sun exposure.

Smoking:

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

Whether DMT crystals are melted on it, or DMT-acetate goo is put on them doesn't matter, you create a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50), most of them should work relatively interchangeably with DMT-acetates because the crystals are usually melted into a goo before smoking anyway.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

Super-short Compressed Tek 1

You'll need:
Lime (Ca(OH2)
MHRB
Vinegar
D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)
Dropper Bottle
Hot Plate/Stovetop
Copper Kitchen Scrubber
Turkey baster/pipette (solvent-safe!)

First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction) When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick tomato soup. Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Add 150ml or more xylene or d-Limonene for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent, this is normal. Stir the solvent around all the bark-mush. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes.

Gently pour off the solvent (might need to filter it) into a separate solvent-safe container.

Add 2 shot-glasses of vinegar into the solvent and agitate it a few times over 40-50 minutes

Use a turkey baster/pipette to separate the vinegar at the bottom to a separate container then repeat one more time with fresh vinegar

Put the solvent back on the bark-mush. I recommend pouring it off and doing the vinegar step at 1 day and 2 days, early pulls will yield less.

Combine all the vinegar pulls you have and carefully evaporate them until they start turning red. (you can optionally filter it)

Look at the condensing step for a color reference for a good concentration. It is most likely going to be much less liquid than you expect as it is very potent.

Transfer the liquid to a dropper bottle. Now you have a liquid that can be measured by number of drops and when evaporated (with or without heat) leaves a red goo which is readily smokable DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Scrub up the DMT with the ball and it can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

Ethanol Tincture

Note:75% ethanol dissolves full spectrum jimjam DMT much better than 95% ethanol, I haven't tried anything less like 40% vodka yet though.

To make an ethanol tincture either: 1: Proceed to step 4 below then continue to heat on minumum until a sap-like red goo remains After it cools add ethanol drop by drop, stirring with a toothpick until the goo is all dissolved. Use a dropper to transfer to a small dropper bottle to complete your ticture.

2: Evaporate all of the vinegar in a flat-bottom glass dish in an oven on the lowest setting then take it out as soon as (or slightly before) all the liquid is gone. nce the resultant goo smells strongly, but not of vinegar then let it cool. Prepare a small glass-dropper with a minimal amount of ethanol (1 gram of DMT dissolves in about 3ml of 75% ethanol) Scrape up the goo on a razor then use a toothpick to transfer the goo into the bottle to make your tincture.

The ethanol tincture contains freebase jimjam DMT rather than DMT acetate and should be appropriate for directly evaporating on regular or MAOI herbs for changa. Unlike vinegar, the stability of DMT in ethanol is unknown currently (tests ongoing) so use caution with your DMT stores.

Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest

About Naphtha

Naphtha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though its toxicity is quite benign. Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.
The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naphtha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.

Plus 2 things:
1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple of hours.
2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.

Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.

If you are in the US then VM+P Naphtha is your choice.
If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices.
If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it:
1. Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs)
2. Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.

(What your product will could like if you follow the tek)

Materials required:

IMPORTANT: The lime, the vinegar, the naphtha and MHRB MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek. The vast majority of problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials. This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, "It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."

Two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naphtha won't dissolve/degrade)
one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best)
one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation
one freezer
30g or more Mimosa hostilis root bark (MHRB)
50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH)
Some Lime Ca(OH)2
100ml or more Naphtha
one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)

Useful tools
a few Playing cards
one or more razor blades/scrapers
Some coffee filters

Preparation:

Step 1: Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: #1, #2, #3) HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

Acidification with Vinegar:

This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

Step 1: Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

Step 2: Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

Step 3: Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

Step 4: Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I do not recommend skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

Basification with Lime:

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.

MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!

Step 1: Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

Step 2: Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

Step 3: Create the right consistency.

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Naphtha

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

Pulling with Naphtha:

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear naphtha solvent floating on top

Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naphtha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted.

Caution: Naphtha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do all of the following in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

When to do your pulls:

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

Step 1: Get a large bowl that your bark-mush container/bowl can easily fit in. Place your container/bowl inside the bottom bowl then add boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the container/bowl or as close to that as possible. This will warm the bark mush indirectly and safely.

Step 2: Once the bark mush has been thoroughly warmed (it does not need to be hot, just nicely warm), add 1ml naphtha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naphtha or more for 100g MHRB).

Step 3: Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

If you have it in a bowl:

Stir the bark-mush around to contact the solvent with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

If you have it in a sealable container:

Danger: Warm naphtha produces lots of expanding fumes, so you MUST vent it frequently whenever it is closed and if you are using something that may shatter, put on gloves and safety glasses. Also, low quality containers are very likely to leak.

When the bark-naphtha mush has been warmed, but is not too hot to handle, seal the container and roll the container around in your hands to mix it. Regularly open the container to vent the pressure from the warm naphtha. Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

For either the bowl or the container, mix well several times over 40-60 minutes,(I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

Place the container/bowl in the hot water when you’re not mixing. Feel the outside of the bowl/container with the bark-mush from time to time and if it is no longer warm then you can replace/add more boiling water in the bowl underneath.

Step 4: Clean and dry your precipitation container

I find it easiest to work with a small glass cake-baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals. You can use any naphtha-safe container though, the crystals sometimes float around in plastic containers, but not always.

Step 5: Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

If you have it in a bowl:

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container, DRY THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

If you have it in a sealable container:

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Once your solvent is in you precipication container, proceed to the next step. If you see some clear liquid (water) under your naphtha, this is not good for the next step. Add the solvent back to the bark and immediately do the seperation again more carefully.

Note: Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

Precipitation/Crystallization:

The first pull of naphtha from 500g of MHRB after being in the freezer overnight

This step works on the principal that naphtha can dissolve DMT-freebase quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naphtha with DMT-freebase dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.

Step 1: Just pop your precipitation container straight into the freezer.
If the naphtha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry this is normal. The naphtha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow, especially on the first pull.

Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but although naphtha smells pretty strong, it doesn't linger too long like d-limonene or xylene.

Step 3: Keep the naphtha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming.
If the naphtha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT-freebase molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.

Step 4: Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take your precipitation container out of the freezer and very gently pour off the naphtha back into your bark-mush. Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors) place to lean your precipitation container against, the few drops of excess naphtha will drip off and all of the naphtha surrounding the crystals will evaporate in a couple of hours.
Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, however usually just SLOWLY pouring the naphtha off works fine. You may use a coffee filter to catch them if you prefer.

Once your container no longer smells like naphtha the DMT-freebase is ready! Scrape them up with a razor or a small spoon and put in a small sealable container or baggie for storage. Keep it in a COOL DRY PLACE because DMT crystals will simply melt on a hot day

Additional Naphtha Pulls:

As I mentioned before, there are recommended timings for pulling with naphtha, but they are planned so you don't need to use extra solvent. My recommended proceedure is as follows:

Warm and Pull either immediately or at 6-8 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 24 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 48 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

The above 3 pulls should total 80-90% of the total DMT in your MHRB

Warm and Pull at 1 week after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 2-3 after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

All 5 pulls together should contain 95% or more than the total DMT in your MHRB

Final Notes on Extracting with Tek 2:

- The solvent and the crystals will usually be more yellow with each pull. You won't notice the difference when smoking yellow DMT vs white DMT though. Also, your DMT crystals will often turn more yellow over long periods of time.

- There may be a small film underneath the crystals. I am pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT which are both readily smokable and psychoactive like the white DMT crystals.

- You can do a re-crystallization for larger crystals (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Recrystallization)

- If the first 2 pulls don't cloud or precipitate crystals after 8-12 hours then check something in the extraction did not work correctly. Check Common issues/Troubleshooting because that should not happen.

- Technically you can make a tincture from Tek 2 by salting the naphtha with vinegar or dissolving the crystals in vinegar. This will produce a beautiful amber-colored liquid that can be measured in 2-3 drops rather than with a scale. This is my prefered method, but I know everyone loves pretty crystals, so this might take some of the magic out of Tek 2 for many people.

Smoking:

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So I can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

You just gently put a single dose of your DMT crystals on the ball then warm it with a ligher until they have melted and coated the metal and you've created a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50)explore and find your favorite one.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

Super-short Compressed Tek 2

You need:
Lime (Ca(OH2)
MHRB
Vinegar
Naphtha
Freezer

In a bowl, mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of MHRB is good for first extraction) When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick porridge. Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Use a bowl underneath containing hot water to warm your bark mush. Add about 100ml naphtha for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. Stir the naphtha around all the bark. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes, making sure the bark mush is kept warm the whole time.

Wipe the bottom of your bowl dry, then gently pour off the naphtha into a container which will go in the freezer (optionally through a coffee filter to catch sediment). I use an 8 inch pyrex cake pan. If the naphtha is at a low level in the container you may want to wrap it in saran wrap to prevent evaporation.

In a couple of hours the naphtha should get cloudy. Slowly over 8-12 hours the DMT will precipitate out of the naphtha and form crystals on the container. When the naphtha is no longer cloudy then gently pour the naphtha off the crystals and back into your bark mush (you may use a coffee filter if you prefer). Put the container on its side to allow the naphtha to evaporate. Keep it out of the sunlight because the crystals will melt into a goo at about 40C or so.

When the crystals no longer smell of naphtha they are ready to smoke or whatever. Keep in a dime bag or something. STORE IN A COOL DRY PLACE TO AVOID MELTING!

Your first pull will only contain a portion of the total DMT, I recommend warming the naphtha, seperating and crystallizing again at 1 day, 2 days, 1 week and 2-3 weeks. Each pull will yeild less DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Put a dose of DMT crystals gently on the ball, then slowly heat it until they have all melted into it. At that point the ball can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

Common issues/Troubleshooting

The teks are pretty comprehensive, so as long as you follow the steps you can expect success.

There are 5 likely causes of no DMT or very small yields of DMT. Each of them has to do with the quality of your core extraction materials:

1. Your Lime is not Calcium Hydroxide

This will mean that the PH of your basified bark mush is not low enough to convert the DMT-acetate to DMT freebase. Adding lime and water to the mix may fix this, but it depends on what your previous "lime" was.

2. Your Solvent was not the D-limonene/Xylene/Naphtha that was mentioned in the Teks.

This will result in either no DMT being dissolved in the solvent, the solvent mixing with the bark, no precipitation of DMT, no salting of DMT or maybe something else.

If your solvent evaporates on glass without leaving reside, completely dry out your lime-bark-solvent outside until it is crumbly (DO NOT USE HEAT!) and then proceeding to pull with proper solvent. Although it is likely to work, no guarentees.

If your solvent leaves a residue when evaporated on glass then it has additives in it and you risk significant health problems by doing anything further, just throw everything out and start again with fresh MHRB and proper solvent!

3. Your MHRB is not MHRB

This basically means you have no DMT to extract, so there is no solution to this issue other than getting yourself real MHRB

4: Your MHRB is not powdered

I have tried about 5x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and got a maximum of 5% the yield as powdered bark. If you have unused bark, you can try to powder it in a really strong blender, but most blenders can't powder MHRB. It might be better to just do a lye tek with your MHRB

5. Your vinegar is not 5% acetic acid

This will result in a successful, but 5x slower tek as it makes it a lime STB. You will have to wait much longer for the lime to work on the MHRB, but you just need patience and you'll get a full yield