Noman's tek - Revision history

TheTraveler: Text replace - "dmt-nexus.com" to "dmt-nexus.me"

2012-01-31T19:56:37Z

Text replace - "dmt-nexus.com" to "dmt-nexus.me"

Endlessness: /* Extraction Procedure */

2011-01-04T00:34:55Z

‎Extraction Procedure

Kerberos: /* Remarks */

2010-11-01T23:12:55Z

‎Remarks

Pacman: /* Remarks */

2010-05-02T23:49:30Z

‎Remarks

Endlessness: /* Extraction Procedure */

2010-04-07T19:02:58Z

‎Extraction Procedure

Endlessness: /* Extraction Procedure */

2010-04-07T19:02:25Z

‎Extraction Procedure

Whoami: rm irritating ﬀ character

2010-01-28T00:14:00Z

rm irritating ﬀ character

Rawmo: /* FAQ Section - */

2009-10-30T06:21:33Z

‎FAQ Section -

Rawmo at 06:17, 30 October 2009

2009-10-30T06:17:00Z

TheTraveler: /* Extraction Procedure */

2009-08-25T21:41:37Z

‎Extraction Procedure

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 {{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Noman's Tek<ref>DMT for the Masses. . . a mhrb extraction tek by Noman
-[http://www.dmt-nexus.com/doc/nomans_dmt_extraction_tek.pdf]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}
+[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/doc/nomans_dmt_extraction_tek.pdf]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}
@@ Line 59: / Line 59: @@
 == Remarks ==
 According to Noman himself he was working on a revision that would include the following: <ref>Noman Tek Revisions
-[http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=872]</ref>
+[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=872]</ref>
 * "'''Get rid of that goddamn ammonia wash. My friend has never had trouble with it but it seems to cause problems for at least half the people that do it.''' I'll change it to a wash of the NP with a weak basic solution."
 * "Note that if pre-powdered bark is being used, 1.5 - 2X of the water called for will be required."
@@ Line 65: / Line 65: @@
 * "Go into more detail about the freeze precip. When I wrote the tek, commonly available bark was of much higher quality. Now a partial evap is sometimes necessary to get the solution concentrated enough to precip."
-Entropmancer advices the following to Noman: [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=872&p=2#26951]
+Entropmancer advices the following to Noman: [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=872&p=2#26951]
 * "Noman, I have one suggestion regarding your tek. I think that calling for a bit less naphtha would make it so that peoples' extractions are concentrated enough to freeze-precip more often. (It may end up taking them one or two more pulls to get all the spice, but I think that easy freeze-precipitation is a good trade-off for one or two extra pulls). <br />SWIM found that when using somewhere around 0.4 mL of naphtha per gram of bark (doing every pull with heated naphtha), every pull except the last one freeze-precipitated easily. (This was with an A/B in a sep funnel, but I don't see why it wouldn't work as well with an STB)"
-Pacman advices the following to Noman with all due respect: A new method of washing is now known that results is less loss of yield than the ammonia wash used in this tek. An example of this wash can be found here. . . http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Vovin's_tek#Step_7:_Washing
+Pacman advices the following to Noman with all due respect: A new method of washing is now known that results is less loss of yield than the ammonia wash used in this tek. An example of this wash can be found here. . . http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Vovin's_tek#Step_7:_Washing
 Kerberos would like to add to the advices given by Entropmancer: following Nomans tek and remarks regarding 1.5x water needed for powered root bark and Entropmancer advices regarding using less naphtha per pull. SWIM used 50g of root bark to 750ml of water and 75g of NaOH, SWIM then used .6ml of naphtha per gram of bark (.4ml did not give enough depth to the separation layer in the size jar SWIM was using) 7 pulls of 30ml (first pull 20ml) yielded the following pure white precipitation; 1)101mg 2)107mg 3)72mg 4)41mg 5)23mg 6)8mg 7)8mg and 40mg off the shot glasses used for the freeze precipitation for a total of 400mg, all pulls were with room temp naphtha.

@@ Line 44: / Line 44: @@
 # Go to bed. You should have a collection of snow globes waiting for you in the morning.
 # Pour each jar of naptha out through a coffee filter. Save the naptha, which can be reused in the next batch or evaporated down producing a residue which can be further refined (see recrystallization below). A lot of paste will stick to the sides of the jar, so use a small rubber spatula to scrape the sides down onto the filter as well. Spread each filter out to dry. There will still be some residue in the jars, a bit of Salvia or MJ will scrub them out nicely.
-# '''(There used to be another step here in the original Noman's Tek, the infamous 'ammonia wash', but it was removed with the consent of Noman, since it caused many problems of loss of yield and its a very innefective way of cleaning. DO NOT DO THE AMMONIA WASH'''.  If one wants to clean the crystals (specially if some of the lye/bark solution came across accidentally when separating the solvent), what one can do is a sodium bicarbonate wash. This is done by redissolving the crystals in naphtha. Then separately, make a solution of water with a bit of sodium carbonate (no need to be accurate, just a pinch of sodium carbonate to, say, 50ml water). Then mix the sodium carbonate solution with the solvent containing the dmt, separate, discarding the water, and freeze the solvent. Voilá
+# '''(There used to be another step here in the original Noman's Tek, the infamous 'ammonia wash', but it was removed with the consent of Noman, since it caused many problems of loss of yield and its a very innefective way of cleaning. DO NOT DO THE AMMONIA WASH'''.  If one wants to clean the crystals (specially if some of the lye/bark solution came across accidentally when separating the solvent), what one can do is a sodium carbonate wash. This is done by redissolving the crystals in naphtha. Then separately, make a solution of water with a bit of sodium carbonate (no need to be accurate, just a pinch of sodium carbonate to, say, 50ml water). Then mix the sodium carbonate solution with the solvent containing the dmt, separate, discarding the water, and freeze the solvent. Voilá
 You should be left with somewhere in the vicinity of 0.5% of the weight of the root-bark in DMT powder. It is perfectly smokable at this point, but it can be refined further by recrystallization. Although recrystallization inevitably results in loss of goods, once you’ve had a hit of DMT that left absolutely NOTHING behind in the pipe, you won’t want to use anything else.

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:12, 1 November 2010
Line 69:		Line 69:

	Pacman advices the following to Noman with all due respect: A new method of washing is now known that results is less loss of yield than the ammonia wash used in this tek. An example of this wash can be found here. . . http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Vovin's_tek#Step_7:_Washing		Pacman advices the following to Noman with all due respect: A new method of washing is now known that results is less loss of yield than the ammonia wash used in this tek. An example of this wash can be found here. . . http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Vovin's_tek#Step_7:_Washing
		+
		+	Kerberos would like to add to the advices given by Entropmancer: following Nomans tek and remarks regarding 1.5x water needed for powered root bark and Entropmancer advices regarding using less naphtha per pull. SWIM used 50g of root bark to 750ml of water and 75g of NaOH, SWIM then used .6ml of naphtha per gram of bark (.4ml did not give enough depth to the separation layer in the size jar SWIM was using) 7 pulls of 30ml (first pull 20ml) yielded the following pure white precipitation; 1)101mg 2)107mg 3)72mg 4)41mg 5)23mg 6)8mg 7)8mg and 40mg off the shot glasses used for the freeze precipitation for a total of 400mg, all pulls were with room temp naphtha.

	== Reference ==		== Reference ==

@@ Line 67: / Line 67: @@
 Entropmancer advices the following to Noman: [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=872&p=2#26951]
 * "Noman, I have one suggestion regarding your tek. I think that calling for a bit less naphtha would make it so that peoples' extractions are concentrated enough to freeze-precip more often. (It may end up taking them one or two more pulls to get all the spice, but I think that easy freeze-precipitation is a good trade-off for one or two extra pulls). <br />SWIM found that when using somewhere around 0.4 mL of naphtha per gram of bark (doing every pull with heated naphtha), every pull except the last one freeze-precipitated easily. (This was with an A/B in a sep funnel, but I don't see why it wouldn't work as well with an STB)"
 == Reference ==

@@ Line 44: / Line 44: @@
 # Go to bed. You should have a collection of snow globes waiting for you in the morning.
 # Pour each jar of naptha out through a coffee filter. Save the naptha, which can be reused in the next batch or evaporated down producing a residue which can be further refined (see recrystallization below). A lot of paste will stick to the sides of the jar, so use a small rubber spatula to scrape the sides down onto the filter as well. Spread each filter out to dry. There will still be some residue in the jars, a bit of Salvia or MJ will scrub them out nicely.
-# '''(There used to be another step here in the original Noman's Tek, the infamous 'ammonia wash', but it was removed since it caused many problems of loss of yield and its a very innefective way of cleaning. DO NOT DO THE AMMONIA WASH'''.  If one wants to clean the crystals (specially if some of the lye/bark solution came across accidentally when separating the solvent), what one can do is a sodium bicarbonate wash. This is done by redissolving the crystals in naphtha. Then separately, make a solution of water with a bit of sodium carbonate (no need to be accurate, just a pinch of sodium carbonate to, say, 50ml water). Then mix the sodium carbonate solution with the solvent containing the dmt, separate, discarding the water, and freeze the solvent. Voilá
+# '''(There used to be another step here in the original Noman's Tek, the infamous 'ammonia wash', but it was removed with the consent of Noman, since it caused many problems of loss of yield and its a very innefective way of cleaning. DO NOT DO THE AMMONIA WASH'''.  If one wants to clean the crystals (specially if some of the lye/bark solution came across accidentally when separating the solvent), what one can do is a sodium bicarbonate wash. This is done by redissolving the crystals in naphtha. Then separately, make a solution of water with a bit of sodium carbonate (no need to be accurate, just a pinch of sodium carbonate to, say, 50ml water). Then mix the sodium carbonate solution with the solvent containing the dmt, separate, discarding the water, and freeze the solvent. Voilá
 You should be left with somewhere in the vicinity of 0.5% of the weight of the root-bark in DMT powder. It is perfectly smokable at this point, but it can be refined further by recrystallization. Although recrystallization inevitably results in loss of goods, once you’ve had a hit of DMT that left absolutely NOTHING behind in the pipe, you won’t want to use anything else.

@@ Line 20: / Line 20: @@
 * Dust mask, safety goggles and rubber gloves
 * [[Mimosa Hostilis]] root bark
-* A coﬀee grinder or heavy duty blender (one that will crush ice)
+* A coffee grinder or heavy duty blender (one that will crush ice)
 * Mixing jar – this should be glass with a wide mouth and a tight fitting lid. A quart jar can do 50g of bark, a gallon pickle jar can do 200g.
 * Water
@@ Line 28: / Line 28: @@
 * Collection jars – 4 wide mouth 8 oz (250mL) jelly jars with lids
 * Separating apparatus – a separatory funnel is easiest but siphoning and decanting will work fine.
-* Coﬀee filters
+* Coffee filters
 * Rubber spatula
 * Very cold freezer – should freeze ice cream HARD
@@ Line 35: / Line 35: @@
 ==== Extraction Procedure ====
-# Pulverize the bark until it’s just fiber and pink/purple dust. It should be snapped into small pieces and run through a coﬀee grinder or blender at high speed. You may need pruning shears to cut the bark small enough to grind properly. It needs to be completely broken down. The dust created is very fine and astringent to the respiratory tract. Unless you dig big cakey purple boogers, wear a mask.
+# Pulverize the bark until it’s just fiber and pink/purple dust. It should be snapped into small pieces and run through a coffee grinder or blender at high speed. You may need pruning shears to cut the bark small enough to grind properly. It needs to be completely broken down. The dust created is very fine and astringent to the respiratory tract. Unless you dig big cakey purple boogers, wear a mask.
 # Mix 15mL water and 1g lye per gram of bark in the mixing jar. For example: 50g bark would require 750mL water and 50g lye. One level tablespoon of lye weighs about 15g, though this can vary considerably, better to use a scale. Note that lye is dangerous. Blind you forever dangerous. Wear eye protection and have a bottle of vinegar handy as a neutralizer and for clean up. Add the lye to the water slowly stirring constantly until completely dissolved.
 # Add the powdered bark, cap and shake the jar and let the bark soak for awhile. An hour or so.
@@ Line 43: / Line 43: @@
 # Repeat steps 4 to 6 three more times. Leave the last NP extraction in the jar for a day or two, agitating occasionally to pick up any strays.
 # Go to bed. You should have a collection of snow globes waiting for you in the morning.
-# Pour each jar of naptha out through a coﬀee filter. Save the naptha, which can be reused in the next batch or evaporated down producing a residue which can be further refined (see recrystallization below). A lot of paste will stick to the sides of the jar, so use a small rubber spatula to scrape the sides down onto the filter as well. Spread each filter out to dry. There will still be some residue in the jars, a bit of Salvia or MJ will scrub them out nicely.
+# Pour each jar of naptha out through a coffee filter. Save the naptha, which can be reused in the next batch or evaporated down producing a residue which can be further refined (see recrystallization below). A lot of paste will stick to the sides of the jar, so use a small rubber spatula to scrape the sides down onto the filter as well. Spread each filter out to dry. There will still be some residue in the jars, a bit of Salvia or MJ will scrub them out nicely.
-# '''(WARNING! Noman said: "Get rid of that goddamn ammonia wash. My friend has never had trouble with it but it seems to cause problems for at least half the people that do it.")''' Once the paste has dried THOROUGHLY (chop and stir it a couple of times), crush any lumps up and combine it all into one coﬀee filter. Now wash the lot by pouring freezer temperature NON-SUDSY ammonia over it and through the coﬀee filter. This will remove any remaining lye and some other impurities from the extract. If you can get 10% ammonia (“janitorial strength”) all the better. Most important, though, is NON-SUDSY: shake the bottle, if it suds, get a diﬀerent bottle. It won’t take much, 100mL or so for a 200g batch, just make sure all the powder is thoroughly wetted, and stir it around while washing. A good bit of the mass will wash away (25&ndash;45%) but it’s nothing you want to be smoking anyway. (Note: if you intend to recrystallize, you can omit the ammonia wash).
+# '''(WARNING! Noman said: "Get rid of that goddamn ammonia wash. My friend has never had trouble with it but it seems to cause problems for at least half the people that do it.")''' Once the paste has dried THOROUGHLY (chop and stir it a couple of times), crush any lumps up and combine it all into one coffee filter. Now wash the lot by pouring freezer temperature NON-SUDSY ammonia over it and through the coffee filter. This will remove any remaining lye and some other impurities from the extract. If you can get 10% ammonia (“janitorial strength”) all the better. Most important, though, is NON-SUDSY: shake the bottle, if it suds, get a different bottle. It won’t take much, 100mL or so for a 200g batch, just make sure all the powder is thoroughly wetted, and stir it around while washing. A good bit of the mass will wash away (25&ndash;45%) but it’s nothing you want to be smoking anyway. (Note: if you intend to recrystallize, you can omit the ammonia wash).
 You should be left with somewhere in the vicinity of 0.5% of the weight of the root-bark in DMT powder. It is perfectly smokable at this point, but it can be refined further by recrystallization. Although recrystallization inevitably results in loss of goods, once you’ve had a hit of DMT that left absolutely NOTHING behind in the pipe, you won’t want to use anything else.
 ==== Recrystallization ====
-The idea behind recrystallization is that solvents generally hold more solute when hot than cold and that the solubility of diﬀerent solutes varies diﬀerently with temperature. If a solvent with a lot of diﬀerent solutes dissolved in it cools down slowly, the diﬀerent solutes will precipitate individually. Naptha will work for this but heptane is better. Heptane is available as Bestine – a rubber cement remover.
+The idea behind recrystallization is that solvents generally hold more solute when hot than cold and that the solubility of different solutes varies differently with temperature. If a solvent with a lot of different solutes dissolved in it cools down slowly, the different solutes will precipitate individually. Naptha will work for this but heptane is better. Heptane is available as Bestine – a rubber cement remover.
 Place a glass container with the DMT and a glass container of the recrystallization solvent together in a pan of hot water. Shot glasses in a saucepan work well for a gram or two. The fumes from whatever solvent you use will be extremely ﬂammable, so don’t use a gas stove or light a bowl or be otherwise stupid. The DMT will already be melting if the water is hot enough. Add the hot solvent little by little (eye-dropper), agitating until all of the DMT is dissolved. Use as little solvent as possible. It should take only about 20&ndash;30mL of solvent per gram of powder. The solvent will be a clear yellow.

@@ Line 83: / Line 83: @@
 '''2] Naptha recommended amount per gram of MHRB (from Entropymancer above)'''
 A - Try 0.4ml per gram MHRB compared to 1ml and do a few more pulls.   This will make the freeze precipitation better.
 The vast majority (rawmo personal experience) of DMT (expectedly perhaps) comes from the first pull, so if you have 2 containers for precipitation and are in a rush do the first pull in one and the rest in the other.

@@ Line 70: / Line 70: @@
 == Reference ==
 <references/>
 [[Category:Extraction Tek]]
 [[Category:Straight To Base]]
 [[Category:DMT]]