Noman's tek - Revision history

TheTraveler: Text replace - "dmt-nexus.com" to "dmt-nexus.me"

2012-01-31T19:56:37Z

Text replace - "dmt-nexus.com" to "dmt-nexus.me"

Endlessness: /* Extraction Procedure */

2011-01-04T00:34:55Z

‎Extraction Procedure

Kerberos: /* Remarks */

2010-11-01T23:12:55Z

‎Remarks

Pacman: /* Remarks */

2010-05-02T23:49:30Z

‎Remarks

Endlessness: /* Extraction Procedure */

2010-04-07T19:02:58Z

‎Extraction Procedure

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 {{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Noman's Tek<ref>DMT for the Masses. . . a mhrb extraction tek by Noman
-[http://www.dmt-nexus.com/doc/nomans_dmt_extraction_tek.pdf]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}
+[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/doc/nomans_dmt_extraction_tek.pdf]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}
@@ Line 59: / Line 59: @@
 == Remarks ==
 According to Noman himself he was working on a revision that would include the following: <ref>Noman Tek Revisions
-[http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=872]</ref>
+[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=872]</ref>
 * "'''Get rid of that goddamn ammonia wash. My friend has never had trouble with it but it seems to cause problems for at least half the people that do it.''' I'll change it to a wash of the NP with a weak basic solution."
 * "Note that if pre-powdered bark is being used, 1.5 - 2X of the water called for will be required."
@@ Line 65: / Line 65: @@
 * "Go into more detail about the freeze precip. When I wrote the tek, commonly available bark was of much higher quality. Now a partial evap is sometimes necessary to get the solution concentrated enough to precip."
-Entropmancer advices the following to Noman: [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=872&p=2#26951]
+Entropmancer advices the following to Noman: [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=872&p=2#26951]
 * "Noman, I have one suggestion regarding your tek. I think that calling for a bit less naphtha would make it so that peoples' extractions are concentrated enough to freeze-precip more often. (It may end up taking them one or two more pulls to get all the spice, but I think that easy freeze-precipitation is a good trade-off for one or two extra pulls). <br />SWIM found that when using somewhere around 0.4 mL of naphtha per gram of bark (doing every pull with heated naphtha), every pull except the last one freeze-precipitated easily. (This was with an A/B in a sep funnel, but I don't see why it wouldn't work as well with an STB)"
-Pacman advices the following to Noman with all due respect: A new method of washing is now known that results is less loss of yield than the ammonia wash used in this tek. An example of this wash can be found here. . . http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Vovin's_tek#Step_7:_Washing
+Pacman advices the following to Noman with all due respect: A new method of washing is now known that results is less loss of yield than the ammonia wash used in this tek. An example of this wash can be found here. . . http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Vovin's_tek#Step_7:_Washing
 Kerberos would like to add to the advices given by Entropmancer: following Nomans tek and remarks regarding 1.5x water needed for powered root bark and Entropmancer advices regarding using less naphtha per pull. SWIM used 50g of root bark to 750ml of water and 75g of NaOH, SWIM then used .6ml of naphtha per gram of bark (.4ml did not give enough depth to the separation layer in the size jar SWIM was using) 7 pulls of 30ml (first pull 20ml) yielded the following pure white precipitation; 1)101mg 2)107mg 3)72mg 4)41mg 5)23mg 6)8mg 7)8mg and 40mg off the shot glasses used for the freeze precipitation for a total of 400mg, all pulls were with room temp naphtha.

@@ Line 44: / Line 44: @@
 # Go to bed. You should have a collection of snow globes waiting for you in the morning.
 # Pour each jar of naptha out through a coffee filter. Save the naptha, which can be reused in the next batch or evaporated down producing a residue which can be further refined (see recrystallization below). A lot of paste will stick to the sides of the jar, so use a small rubber spatula to scrape the sides down onto the filter as well. Spread each filter out to dry. There will still be some residue in the jars, a bit of Salvia or MJ will scrub them out nicely.
-# '''(There used to be another step here in the original Noman's Tek, the infamous 'ammonia wash', but it was removed with the consent of Noman, since it caused many problems of loss of yield and its a very innefective way of cleaning. DO NOT DO THE AMMONIA WASH'''.  If one wants to clean the crystals (specially if some of the lye/bark solution came across accidentally when separating the solvent), what one can do is a sodium bicarbonate wash. This is done by redissolving the crystals in naphtha. Then separately, make a solution of water with a bit of sodium carbonate (no need to be accurate, just a pinch of sodium carbonate to, say, 50ml water). Then mix the sodium carbonate solution with the solvent containing the dmt, separate, discarding the water, and freeze the solvent. Voilá
+# '''(There used to be another step here in the original Noman's Tek, the infamous 'ammonia wash', but it was removed with the consent of Noman, since it caused many problems of loss of yield and its a very innefective way of cleaning. DO NOT DO THE AMMONIA WASH'''.  If one wants to clean the crystals (specially if some of the lye/bark solution came across accidentally when separating the solvent), what one can do is a sodium carbonate wash. This is done by redissolving the crystals in naphtha. Then separately, make a solution of water with a bit of sodium carbonate (no need to be accurate, just a pinch of sodium carbonate to, say, 50ml water). Then mix the sodium carbonate solution with the solvent containing the dmt, separate, discarding the water, and freeze the solvent. Voilá
 You should be left with somewhere in the vicinity of 0.5% of the weight of the root-bark in DMT powder. It is perfectly smokable at this point, but it can be refined further by recrystallization. Although recrystallization inevitably results in loss of goods, once you’ve had a hit of DMT that left absolutely NOTHING behind in the pipe, you won’t want to use anything else.

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:12, 1 November 2010
Line 69:		Line 69:

	Pacman advices the following to Noman with all due respect: A new method of washing is now known that results is less loss of yield than the ammonia wash used in this tek. An example of this wash can be found here. . . http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Vovin's_tek#Step_7:_Washing		Pacman advices the following to Noman with all due respect: A new method of washing is now known that results is less loss of yield than the ammonia wash used in this tek. An example of this wash can be found here. . . http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Vovin's_tek#Step_7:_Washing
		+
		+	Kerberos would like to add to the advices given by Entropmancer: following Nomans tek and remarks regarding 1.5x water needed for powered root bark and Entropmancer advices regarding using less naphtha per pull. SWIM used 50g of root bark to 750ml of water and 75g of NaOH, SWIM then used .6ml of naphtha per gram of bark (.4ml did not give enough depth to the separation layer in the size jar SWIM was using) 7 pulls of 30ml (first pull 20ml) yielded the following pure white precipitation; 1)101mg 2)107mg 3)72mg 4)41mg 5)23mg 6)8mg 7)8mg and 40mg off the shot glasses used for the freeze precipitation for a total of 400mg, all pulls were with room temp naphtha.

	== Reference ==		== Reference ==

@@ Line 67: / Line 67: @@
 Entropmancer advices the following to Noman: [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=872&p=2#26951]
 * "Noman, I have one suggestion regarding your tek. I think that calling for a bit less naphtha would make it so that peoples' extractions are concentrated enough to freeze-precip more often. (It may end up taking them one or two more pulls to get all the spice, but I think that easy freeze-precipitation is a good trade-off for one or two extra pulls). <br />SWIM found that when using somewhere around 0.4 mL of naphtha per gram of bark (doing every pull with heated naphtha), every pull except the last one freeze-precipitated easily. (This was with an A/B in a sep funnel, but I don't see why it wouldn't work as well with an STB)"
 == Reference ==

@@ Line 44: / Line 44: @@
 # Go to bed. You should have a collection of snow globes waiting for you in the morning.
 # Pour each jar of naptha out through a coffee filter. Save the naptha, which can be reused in the next batch or evaporated down producing a residue which can be further refined (see recrystallization below). A lot of paste will stick to the sides of the jar, so use a small rubber spatula to scrape the sides down onto the filter as well. Spread each filter out to dry. There will still be some residue in the jars, a bit of Salvia or MJ will scrub them out nicely.
-# '''(There used to be another step here in the original Noman's Tek, the infamous 'ammonia wash', but it was removed since it caused many problems of loss of yield and its a very innefective way of cleaning. DO NOT DO THE AMMONIA WASH'''.  If one wants to clean the crystals (specially if some of the lye/bark solution came across accidentally when separating the solvent), what one can do is a sodium bicarbonate wash. This is done by redissolving the crystals in naphtha. Then separately, make a solution of water with a bit of sodium carbonate (no need to be accurate, just a pinch of sodium carbonate to, say, 50ml water). Then mix the sodium carbonate solution with the solvent containing the dmt, separate, discarding the water, and freeze the solvent. Voilá
+# '''(There used to be another step here in the original Noman's Tek, the infamous 'ammonia wash', but it was removed with the consent of Noman, since it caused many problems of loss of yield and its a very innefective way of cleaning. DO NOT DO THE AMMONIA WASH'''.  If one wants to clean the crystals (specially if some of the lye/bark solution came across accidentally when separating the solvent), what one can do is a sodium bicarbonate wash. This is done by redissolving the crystals in naphtha. Then separately, make a solution of water with a bit of sodium carbonate (no need to be accurate, just a pinch of sodium carbonate to, say, 50ml water). Then mix the sodium carbonate solution with the solvent containing the dmt, separate, discarding the water, and freeze the solvent. Voilá
 You should be left with somewhere in the vicinity of 0.5% of the weight of the root-bark in DMT powder. It is perfectly smokable at this point, but it can be refined further by recrystallization. Although recrystallization inevitably results in loss of goods, once you’ve had a hit of DMT that left absolutely NOTHING behind in the pipe, you won’t want to use anything else.