Lazyman's tek - Revision history

Loveall: /* Sixth extraction, more heat caused problems */

2021-09-21T00:02:44Z

‎Sixth extraction, more heat caused problems

Loveall: /* Sixth extraction, more heat caused problems */

2021-09-21T00:02:30Z

‎Sixth extraction, more heat caused problems

Twilight: /* Here is a more detailed explanation of the extraction method using a half kilo of root bark */

2009-06-15T09:13:38Z

‎Here is a more detailed explanation of the extraction method using a half kilo of root bark

Twilight: /* Here is a more detailed explanation of the extraction method using a half kilo of root bark */

2009-06-15T09:11:55Z

‎Here is a more detailed explanation of the extraction method using a half kilo of root bark

Twilight: /* Here is a more detailed explanation of the extraction method using a half kilo of root bark */

2009-06-15T09:09:52Z

‎Here is a more detailed explanation of the extraction method using a half kilo of root bark

Twilight: /* Here is a more detailed explanation of the extraction method using a half kilo of root bark */

2009-06-15T09:08:18Z

‎Here is a more detailed explanation of the extraction method using a half kilo of root bark

Twilight: /* Dry defat without using acid or water */

2009-06-15T09:06:04Z

‎Dry defat without using acid or water

Twilight: /* Dry defat without using acid or water */

2009-06-15T09:02:13Z

‎Dry defat without using acid or water

Twilight: /* Dry defat without using acid or water */

2009-06-15T08:46:23Z

‎Dry defat without using acid or water

Twilight: /* Dry defat without using acid or water */

2009-06-15T08:43:48Z

‎Dry defat without using acid or water

@@ Line 88: / Line 88: @@
 === Sixth extraction, more heat caused problems ===
 A sixth and last extraction was performed to the mix by pouring 500 mL of fresh naphtha back into the bowl, stirring for a few minutes and then heating the aqueous solution under the naphtha to 130&deg; F. for an hour, stirring often. The temperature of the naphtha floating on top of the basified solution was measured to be 10&ndash;15&deg; cooler than the basified mix below it due to what I assume was being caused by cooling as the solvent evaporated off the top, even though a fairly slow rate of evaporation. After an hour at 130&deg; F. the warm naphtha was poured off for rapid fan evaporation in the large flat glass pan which yielded close to 2 g of yellowish extract (only becoming yellow after solidifying, clear until then) but this time upon cooling did not firm up very quickly and even after 8 hours was a very soft sticky extract which was obviously mostly DMT as indicated by both smell and crystalline formations but would not dry into a firm wax-like substance very quickly due to what I believe might be fatty impurities released from the root bark when heated too far in the base solution.
 /20/2021 Edit: An alternative to fatty impurities could be polymerized DMT.

@@ Line 88: / Line 88: @@
 === Sixth extraction, more heat caused problems ===
 A sixth and last extraction was performed to the mix by pouring 500 mL of fresh naphtha back into the bowl, stirring for a few minutes and then heating the aqueous solution under the naphtha to 130&deg; F. for an hour, stirring often. The temperature of the naphtha floating on top of the basified solution was measured to be 10&ndash;15&deg; cooler than the basified mix below it due to what I assume was being caused by cooling as the solvent evaporated off the top, even though a fairly slow rate of evaporation. After an hour at 130&deg; F. the warm naphtha was poured off for rapid fan evaporation in the large flat glass pan which yielded close to 2 g of yellowish extract (only becoming yellow after solidifying, clear until then) but this time upon cooling did not firm up very quickly and even after 8 hours was a very soft sticky extract which was obviously mostly DMT as indicated by both smell and crystalline formations but would not dry into a firm wax-like substance very quickly due to what I believe might be fatty impurities released from the root bark when heated too far in the base solution.
 === Extraction advice; soak longer, extract more with less work ===

@@ Line 48: / Line 48: @@
 The alkaloid is already in the form of a salt when in the dried root bark and does not require acid and water, just directly defat the powdered root bark with solvent now. I have tested powdered and broken root bark to see if naphtha can extract the goodies without basification and when evaporating the solvent found none was removed from the powder by the naptha solvent but once the powder was mixed into NaOH water large amounts of the spirit molecule could then be pulled out. Thus; the root bark must first be soaked in a high pH adjusted water before the goodies will be soluble or removed by the extraction solvent.'''
-Although Mimosa hostilis root bark extracts fairly cleanly with minimal plant fats if you want to remove what little of it there is you can do so without adding an acid to the powder with water by just mixing the dry (no water present) root bark powder into enough naphtha to allow all of the powder to be freely stirred up into the fluid. How long should you defat in naptha? Just pour some naptha into your container of powdered root bark, stir for five minutes and strain out. To be extra thorough do this three times and that's more than enough but save all of the naphtha you pour out in a container because the next day you will find some extremely fine particles of root bark powder will have settled to the bottom which should be recovered and used in your extraction or perhaps the next one you do if later doing more art projects.
+Although Mimosa hostilis root bark extracts fairly cleanly with minimal plant fats if you want to remove what little of it there is you can do so without adding an acid to the powder with water by just mixing the dry (no water present) root bark powder into enough naphtha to allow all of the powder to be freely stirred up into the fluid. How long should you defat in naptha? Just pour some naptha into your container of powdered root bark, stir for five minutes and strain out. To be extra thorough do this three times and that's more than enough. Save all of the naphtha you pour out in a container because the next day you will find some extremely fine particles of root bark powder will have settled to the bottom which should be recovered and used in your extraction.
 I don't know if this will be of much benefit because I've never done this myself but for an extreme defat heat your can of naphtha in some hot tap water coming out of your facet at a temperature of at least 100 degree F., once the solvent is hot then stir the powder into it but be sure to pour off and strain every drop of naphtha you can when done and later throw that naphtha away, you should not use this naphtha for anything more in the process. Once you are done de-fating the powder then dump wet powder into the prepared NaOH adjusted or basified mix, as is and wet with naphtha if you like, or after drying. No harm adding root bark with a little naphtha still soaked into it from the defat, you are just going to end up pouring more naphtha in anyway.

@@ Line 42: / Line 42: @@
 Is there any easier process to extract and isolate that much alkaloid in two to three hours from a pound of root bark? Although the initial yield will be much higher if extracting powdered root bark which takes much less time, whole or broken root bark can also provide high yields if you wait two or three days for the hard strips of bark to turn into a mush as the NaOH breaks it down further and further over time in the basified solution for a higher extraction yield. If waiting 24 hours and performing a single extraction the broken root bark the basified aqueous mix will still need to be extracted over again three or more times to get more of the alkaloid out. That's it, a very simple process with yields others have reported to be much higher than the more often used A-B or acid to base teks. With dried Mimosa hostilis root bark the alkaloid is already in the form of a salt as is and there are so little plant fats many people simply do not bother with a defat cycle so going strait to base chemical works out very well with this material.
-'''Dry defat (no water) without acid or water'''
+'''Dry defat without acid or water'''
 A defat process is not normally needed for MHRB due to its very low fat content. However, if you desire to do so here is a way of removing fats without the need to go through an A-B cycle and without the use of water.

@@ Line 42: / Line 42: @@
 Is there any easier process to extract and isolate that much alkaloid in two to three hours from a pound of root bark? Although the initial yield will be much higher if extracting powdered root bark which takes much less time, whole or broken root bark can also provide high yields if you wait two or three days for the hard strips of bark to turn into a mush as the NaOH breaks it down further and further over time in the basified solution for a higher extraction yield. If waiting 24 hours and performing a single extraction the broken root bark the basified aqueous mix will still need to be extracted over again three or more times to get more of the alkaloid out. That's it, a very simple process with yields others have reported to be much higher than the more often used A-B or acid to base teks. With dried Mimosa hostilis root bark the alkaloid is already in the form of a salt as is and there are so little plant fats many people simply do not bother with a defat cycle so going strait to base chemical works out very well with this material.
-'''Dry defat (no water) without acid or water
+'''Dry defat (no water) without acid or water'''
 '''
 A defat process is not normally needed for MHRB due to its very low fat content. However, if you desire to do so here is a way of removing fats without the need to go through an A-B cycle and without the use of water.
-''The alkaloid is already in the form of a salt when in the dried root bark and does not require acid and water, just directly defat the powdered root bark with solvent now. I have tested powdered and broken root bark to see if naphtha can extract the goodies without basification and when evaporating the solvent found none was removed from the powder by the naptha solvent but once the powder was mixed into NaOH water large amounts of the spirit molecule could then be pulled out. Thus; the root bark must first be soaked in a high pH adjusted water before the goodies will be soluble or removed by the extraction solvent.'''
+The alkaloid is already in the form of a salt when in the dried root bark and does not require acid and water, just directly defat the powdered root bark with solvent now. I have tested powdered and broken root bark to see if naphtha can extract the goodies without basification and when evaporating the solvent found none was removed from the powder by the naptha solvent but once the powder was mixed into NaOH water large amounts of the spirit molecule could then be pulled out. Thus; the root bark must first be soaked in a high pH adjusted water before the goodies will be soluble or removed by the extraction solvent.'''
 Although Mimosa hostilis root bark extracts fairly cleanly with minimal plant fats if you want to remove what little of it there is you can do so without adding an acid to the powder with water by just mixing the dry (no water present) root bark powder into enough naphtha to allow all of the powder to be freely stirred up into the fluid. How long should you defat in naptha? Just pour some naptha into your container of powdered root bark, stir for five minutes and strain out. To be extra thorough do this three times and that's more than enough but save all of the naphtha you pour out in a container because the next day you will find some extremely fine particles of root bark powder will have settled to the bottom which should be recovered and used in your extraction or perhaps the next one you do if later doing more art projects.

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:08, 15 June 2009
Line 42:		Line 42:
	Is there any easier process to extract and isolate that much alkaloid in two to three hours from a pound of root bark? Although the initial yield will be much higher if extracting powdered root bark which takes much less time, whole or broken root bark can also provide high yields if you wait two or three days for the hard strips of bark to turn into a mush as the NaOH breaks it down further and further over time in the basified solution for a higher extraction yield. If waiting 24 hours and performing a single extraction the broken root bark the basified aqueous mix will still need to be extracted over again three or more times to get more of the alkaloid out. That's it, a very simple process with yields others have reported to be much higher than the more often used A-B or acid to base teks. With dried Mimosa hostilis root bark the alkaloid is already in the form of a salt as is and there are so little plant fats many people simply do not bother with a defat cycle so going strait to base chemical works out very well with this material.		Is there any easier process to extract and isolate that much alkaloid in two to three hours from a pound of root bark? Although the initial yield will be much higher if extracting powdered root bark which takes much less time, whole or broken root bark can also provide high yields if you wait two or three days for the hard strips of bark to turn into a mush as the NaOH breaks it down further and further over time in the basified solution for a higher extraction yield. If waiting 24 hours and performing a single extraction the broken root bark the basified aqueous mix will still need to be extracted over again three or more times to get more of the alkaloid out. That's it, a very simple process with yields others have reported to be much higher than the more often used A-B or acid to base teks. With dried Mimosa hostilis root bark the alkaloid is already in the form of a salt as is and there are so little plant fats many people simply do not bother with a defat cycle so going strait to base chemical works out very well with this material.

		+	'''Dry defat (no water) without acid or water
		+	'''
	A defat process is not normally needed for MHRB due to its very low fat content. However, if you desire to do so here is a way of removing fats without the need to go through an A-B cycle and without the use of water.		A defat process is not normally needed for MHRB due to its very low fat content. However, if you desire to do so here is a way of removing fats without the need to go through an A-B cycle and without the use of water.

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:06, 15 June 2009
Line 41:		Line 41:

	Is there any easier process to extract and isolate that much alkaloid in two to three hours from a pound of root bark? Although the initial yield will be much higher if extracting powdered root bark which takes much less time, whole or broken root bark can also provide high yields if you wait two or three days for the hard strips of bark to turn into a mush as the NaOH breaks it down further and further over time in the basified solution for a higher extraction yield. If waiting 24 hours and performing a single extraction the broken root bark the basified aqueous mix will still need to be extracted over again three or more times to get more of the alkaloid out. That's it, a very simple process with yields others have reported to be much higher than the more often used A-B or acid to base teks. With dried Mimosa hostilis root bark the alkaloid is already in the form of a salt as is and there are so little plant fats many people simply do not bother with a defat cycle so going strait to base chemical works out very well with this material.		Is there any easier process to extract and isolate that much alkaloid in two to three hours from a pound of root bark? Although the initial yield will be much higher if extracting powdered root bark which takes much less time, whole or broken root bark can also provide high yields if you wait two or three days for the hard strips of bark to turn into a mush as the NaOH breaks it down further and further over time in the basified solution for a higher extraction yield. If waiting 24 hours and performing a single extraction the broken root bark the basified aqueous mix will still need to be extracted over again three or more times to get more of the alkaloid out. That's it, a very simple process with yields others have reported to be much higher than the more often used A-B or acid to base teks. With dried Mimosa hostilis root bark the alkaloid is already in the form of a salt as is and there are so little plant fats many people simply do not bother with a defat cycle so going strait to base chemical works out very well with this material.
−
−	~~=== Dry defat without using acid or water ===~~

	A defat process is not normally needed for MHRB due to its very low fat content. However, if you desire to do so here is a way of removing fats without the need to go through an A-B cycle and without the use of water.		A defat process is not normally needed for MHRB due to its very low fat content. However, if you desire to do so here is a way of removing fats without the need to go through an A-B cycle and without the use of water.

@@ Line 48: / Line 48: @@
 ''The alkaloid is already in the form of a salt when in the dried root bark and does not require acid and water, just directly defat the powdered root bark with solvent now. I have tested powdered and broken root bark to see if naphtha can extract the goodies without basification and when evaporating the solvent found none was removed from the powder by the naptha solvent but once the powder was mixed into NaOH water large amounts of the spirit molecule could then be pulled out. Thus; the root bark must first be soaked in a high pH adjusted water before the goodies will be soluble or removed by the extraction solvent.'''
-Although Mimosa hostilis root bark extracts fairly cleanly with minimal plant fats if you want to remove what little of it there is you can do so without adding an acid to the powder with water by just mixing the dry (no water present) root bark powder into enough naphtha to allow all of the powder to be freely stirred up into the fluid for a few minutes and then filtered out of the naphtha which is then discarded. For an extreme defat heat the naphtha to near its boiling point and then stir the powder into it but be sure to pour off every drop of naphtha you can when done and throw that naphtha away, you should not use it for anything more in the process. Once you are done with the solvent defat the root bark powder is then dumped into the basified mix, as is and wet with naphtha if you like, or after drying. No harm adding root bark with a little naphtha still soaked into it from the defat, you are just going to end up pouring more naphtha in anyway. This "dry" defat without water works very well to remove what fats there are but is not really needed if extracting the plant material at room temperature. How long should you defat with Naphtha? Just pour some naptha into your container of powdered root bark, stir for five minutes and strain out. Do this three times and that's more than enough but save all of the naphtha you pour out in a container because the next day you will find that some extremely fine particles of powdered will have settled to the bottom which should be recovered and used in your extraction or perhaps the next one you do if later doing more art projects.
+Although Mimosa hostilis root bark extracts fairly cleanly with minimal plant fats if you want to remove what little of it there is you can do so without adding an acid to the powder with water by just mixing the dry (no water present) root bark powder into enough naphtha to allow all of the powder to be freely stirred up into the fluid for a few minutes and then filtered out of the naphtha which is then discarded. For an extreme defat heat the naphtha to near its boiling point and then stir the powder into it but be sure to pour off every drop of naphtha you can when done and throw that naphtha away, you should not use it for anything more in the process. Once you are done with the solvent defat the root bark powder is then dumped into the basified mix, as is and wet with naphtha if you like, or after drying. No harm adding root bark with a little naphtha still soaked into it from the defat, you are just going to end up pouring more naphtha in anyway. This "dry" defat without water works very well to remove what fats there are but is not really needed if extracting the plant material at room temperature. How long should you defat with Naphtha? Just pour some naptha into your container of powdered root bark, stir for five minutes and strain out. Do this three times and that's more than enough but save all of the naphtha you pour out in a container because the next day you will find some extremely fine particles of root bark powder will have settled to the bottom which should be recovered and used in your extraction or perhaps the next one you do if later doing more art projects.
 Note: When the solvent was evaporated from the defat process there was no discernible amount of alkaloid present, only orange fats. When this tek was first posted on the net on another forum someone speculated that these fats might contain the compound from MHRB which will make the alkaloid active when swallowed without the need for MAOI. I have not confirmed this report.