https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=I%2Ai%2Ab&feedformat=atomDMT-Nexus Wiki - User contributions [en]2024-03-28T18:30:40ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.22.1https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Talk:DMT_Containing_PlantsTalk:DMT Containing Plants2009-02-23T22:06:19Z<p>I*i*b: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page is very large! Might be worth using this as a start on a list page like - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_flowers - rather than trying to fit all this info in...<br />
<br />
If this was a list page then it would make sense to create a page that was a slightly more readable intro to DMT-containing plants.<br />
<br />
: The purpose of this page is to have all of the alkaloid content available for comparative reference. Each plant could potentially have its own page and would be listed in category:botanics (though a separate list wouldn't be out of the question). This page would link to those pages as well. What this page needs is a plant info template. There is a sections in the nexian dmt handbook that will serve as an intro to dmt-containing plants and elaborate only on the more commonly used and available plants.--[[User:Amor fati|amor_fati]] 03:23, 23 February 2009 (UTC)<br />
<br />
:: I'll create a template for the plants on this page, this will make the page a bit shorter and more readable. --[[User:TheTraveler|TheTraveler]] 08:12, 23 February 2009 (UTC)<br />
<br />
::: Would this data be more useful as a table if it's aimed to be used in that way? Are images getting in the way of the data?</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Talk:DMT_Containing_PlantsTalk:DMT Containing Plants2009-02-23T22:04:14Z<p>I*i*b: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page is very large! Might be worth using this as a start on a list page like - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_flowers - rather than trying to fit all this info in...<br />
<br />
If this was a list page then it would make sense to create a page that was a slightly more readable intro to DMT-containing plants.<br />
<br />
: The purpose of this page is to have all of the alkaloid content available for comparative reference. Each plant could potentially have its own page and would be listed in category:botanics (though a separate list wouldn't be out of the question). This page would link to those pages as well. What this page needs is a plant info template. There is a sections in the nexian dmt handbook that will serve as an intro to dmt-containing plants and elaborate only on the more commonly used and available plants.--[[User:Amor fati|amor_fati]] 03:23, 23 February 2009 (UTC)<br />
<br />
:: I'll create a template for the plants on this page, this will make the page a bit shorter and more readable. --[[User:TheTraveler|TheTraveler]] 08:12, 23 February 2009 (UTC)<br />
<br />
::: @ Amor_fati - Would this data be more useful as a table if it's aimed to be used in that way?</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Talk:DMT_Containing_PlantsTalk:DMT Containing Plants2009-02-21T08:47:46Z<p>I*i*b: Can this page shortened?</p>
<hr />
<div>This page is very large! Might be worth using this as a start on a list page like - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_flowers - rather than trying to fit all this info in...<br />
<br />
If this was a list page then it would make sense to create a page that was a slightly more readable intro to DMT-containing plants.</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Containing_PlantsDMT Containing Plants2009-02-21T08:43:01Z<p>I*i*b: Cleaned up plants list formatting a bit</p>
<hr />
<div>{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a work in progress -- its content throughout is not yet complete.}}<br />
<br />
==DMT Containing plants==<br />
The following is a list of plants known to contain tryptamines.<br />
<br />
===List===<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:anadenanthera_peregrina_flowers.jpg|thumb|''Anadenanthera peregrina'']]<br />
|'''Tryptamines known to be present in ''A. peregrina'' ''' (Southon et al. 1994)Bufotenine (seeds)Bufotenine N-oxide (seeds)N,N-Dimethyltryptamine N-oxide (seeds)N,N-Dimethyltryptamine (bark)(pods)(seeds)5-Methoxy-N-methyltryptamine (bark)O-Methylbufotenine (bark) (seeds)N-Methyltryptamine (bark)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:arundo_donax.jpg|thumb|''Arundo donax'']]<br />
|Entire Plant contains 5-MeO-DMT (Shulgin, TIHKAL)Flowers contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, and 5-MeO-NMT (Shulgin, TIHKAL)Roots contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, 5-MeO-NMT, Bufotenine, bufotenidine, dehydrobufotenidine (Shulgin, TIHKAL)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:desmanthus.jpg|thumb|''Desmanthus illinoensis'']]<br />
|Root contains DMT - 0.200% (Ott)Root Bark contains DMT - 0.340% (Ott)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:phalaris_arund.jpg|thumb|''Phalaris arundinacea'']]<br />
|Leaves contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, and related compounds (Smith 1977)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:phalaris_aquatica.jpg|thumb|''Phalaris aquatica''/''Phalaris tuberosa'']]<br />
|Leaves and seedlings contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, and related compounds (Smith 1977)DMT - 0.100% (erowid)5-MeO-DMT - 0.022% (erowid)5-OH-DMT - 0.005% (erowid)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:phragmites_australis.jpg|thumb|''Phragmites australis'']]<br />
|DMT in roots (Ott)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[Image:Delosperma acuminatum2.jpg|thumb|''Delosperma acuminatum'']]<br />
|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:delosperma_acuminatum.jpg|thumb|''Delosperma cooperi'']]<br />
|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:iceplantbrighteyes-may.jpg|thumb|''Delosperma ecklonis'']]<br />
|DMT (Trout's Notes)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:Delosperma_esterhuyseniae.jpg|thumb|''Delosperma esterhuyseniae'']]<br />
|DMT (Trout's Notes)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:NoImage.png|thumb|''Delosperma hallii'']]<br />
|5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:NoImage.png|thumb|''Delosperma harazianum'']]<br />
|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:NoImage.png|thumb|''Delosperma hirtum'']]<br />
|DMT (Trout's Notes)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:DelospermaLydenbergense.jpg|thumb|''Delosperma lydenbergense'']]<br />
|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:NoImage.png|thumb|''Delosperma nubigenum'']]<br />
|5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:NoImage.png|thumb|''Delosperma pageanum'']]<br />
|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:NoImage.png|thumb|''Delosperma pergamentaceum'']]<br />
|Traces of DMT (Trout's Notes)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:180px-Delosperma_tradescantioides_leafs_IMGP0042.jpg|thumb|''Delosperma tradescantioides'']]<br />
|DMT (Trout's Notes)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:petalostylis_cassioides.jpg|thumb|''Petalostylis cassioides'']]<br />
|0.4-0.5% tryptamine, DMT, etc. in leaves and stems (Johns et al 1966)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:NoImage.png|thumb|''Acacia acuminata'']]<br />
|Up to 1.5% alkaloids, mainly consisting of tryptamine in leaf (Lycaeum)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:NoImage.png|thumb|''Acacia alpina'']]<br />
|Active principles in leaf (M.Bock)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:NoImage.png|thumb|''Acacia angustifolia'']]<br />
|Psychoactive Tryptamines (Rätsch 2004)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:NoImage.png|thumb|''Acacia angustissima'']]<br />
|β-methyl-phenethylamine (Glasby 1991)NMT and DMT in leaf, 1.1-10.2 ppm (McSweeney et al. 2005)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:NoImage.png|thumb|''Acacia auriculiformis'']]<br />
|5-MeO-DMT in stem bark (Lycaeum)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Acacia ===<br />
''Acacia baileyana''<br />
* 0.02% tryptamine and β-carbolines, in the leaf, Tetrahydroharman (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Acacia berlandieri''<br />
* Amphetamine, Methamphetamine, N,N-Dimethylamphetamine, 4-Methoxyamphetamine, 4-Hydroxyamphetamine (Shulgin 2001) <br />
* DMT and others (Phytochem. 199<br />
<br />
''Acacia catechu'' <br />
* DMT and other tryptamines in leaf, bark (Trout's Notes)<br />
<br />
''Acacia caven''<br />
* Psychoactive<br />
<br />
''Acacia colei''<br />
* DMT (Dr. Karl and abc.net.au 2005)<br />
<br />
''Acacia constricta''<br />
* β-methyl-phenethylamine[12]<br />
<br />
''Acacia complanata''<br />
* 0.3% alkaloids in leaf and stem, N-methyl-tetrahydroharman with traces of tetrahydroharman (Johns et al. 1966)<br />
<br />
''Acacia confusa'' <br />
* N-chloromethyl-N,N-dimethyltryptamine, N-methyltryptamine, N,N-dimethyltryptamine, and N,N-dimethyltryptamine-N-oxide (Quinn et al. 2006)<br />
<br />
''Acacia cornigera''<br />
* Psychoactive,[8] Tryptamines[27]<br />
<br />
''Acacia cultriformis'' <br />
* Tryptamine in the leaf and stem (Trout's Notes)<br />
<br />
''Acacia farnesiana'' <br />
* Tryptamines and phenethylamines (Lyceaum)<br />
* N-Methyl-Beta-Phenethylamine (Duke 1992)<br />
<br />
''Acacia filiciana''<br />
* Psychoactive<br />
<br />
''Acacia floribunda''<br />
* Tryptamine, phenethylamine,[33] in flowers[15] other tryptamines,[34] phenethylamines<br />
<br />
''Acacia georginae''<br />
* Psychoactive,[8] plus deadly toxins<br />
<br />
''Acacia greggii''<br />
* N-methyl-β-phenethylamine,[12] phenethylamine[36]<br />
<br />
''Acacia harpophylla''<br />
* Phenethylamine, hordenine at a ratio of 2:3 in dried leaves, 0.6% total[6]<br />
<br />
''Acacia holoserica''<br />
* Hordenine, 1.2% in bark[6]<br />
<br />
''Acacia horrida'' <br />
* Psychoactive<br />
<br />
''Acacia implexa''<br />
* Psychoactive<br />
<br />
''Acacia karroo''<br />
* Psychoactive<br />
<br />
''Acacia kempeana''<br />
* Psychoactive<br />
<br />
''Acacia kettlewelliae''<br />
* 1.5[6]&ndash;1.88%[38] alkaloids, 92% consisting of phenylethylamine.[6] 0.9% N-methyl-2-phenylethylamine found a different time<br />
<br />
''Acacia laeta''<br />
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)<br />
<br />
''Acacia lingulata''<br />
* Psychoactive<br />
<br />
''Acacia longifolia'' <br />
* 0.2% tryptamine in bark, leaves, some in flowers, phenylethylamine in flowers (Hegnauer 1994)<br />
* DMT in plant (Lyceaum)<br />
<br />
''Acacia macradenia''<br />
* Tryptamine<br />
<br />
''Acacia maidenii''<br />
* Bark of A. maidenii contains 0.6% of N-methyltryptamine and DMT in the proportions approx. 2:3 (Fitzgerald & Sioumis 1965)<br />
<br />
''Acacia mangium''<br />
* Psychoactive<br />
<br />
''Acacia melanoxylon'' <br />
* DMT in the bark and leaf, less than 0.02% total alkaloids (Hegnauer 1994)<br />
<br />
''Acacia mellifera'' <br />
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)<br />
<br />
''Acacia nilotica'' <br />
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)<br />
<br />
''Acacia obtusifolia''<br />
* 0.4 to 0.5 % DMT in the dried bark (Csiro 1990)<br />
<br />
''Acacia oerfota''<br />
* Less than 0.1% DMT in leaf (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Acacia penninervis''<br />
* Psychoactive<br />
<br />
''Acacia phlebophylla'' <br />
* 0.3% DMT in leaf, NMT (Trout's Notes)<br />
<br />
''Acacia platensis''<br />
* Psychoactive<br />
<br />
''Acacia podalyriaefolia'' <br />
* Tryptamine in the leaf (Trout's Notes)<br />
* 0.5% to 2% DMT in fresh bark, phenethylamine trace amounts (Hegnauer 1994)<br />
<br />
''Acacia polyacantha'' <br />
* DMT in leaf (Trout's Notes)<br />
<br />
''Acacia pycantha''<br />
* Psychoactive,[8] but less than 0.02% total alkaloids<br />
<br />
''Acacia retinodes'' <br />
* DMT and MMT (www.factorey.ch/Eins.htm) <br />
* Less than 0.02% total alkaloids found (Hegnauer 1994)<br />
<br />
''Acacia roemeriana''<br />
* β-methyl-phenethylamine<br />
<br />
''Acacia rigidula''<br />
* DMT, NMT, tryptamine, amphetamines, mescaline, nicotine and others (Phytochem. 199 <br />
<br />
''Acacia salicina''<br />
* Psychoactive[8][9] Ash used in Pituri.<br />
<br />
''Acacia sassa''<br />
* Psychoactive<br />
<br />
''Acacia schaffneri''<br />
* β-methyl-phenethylamine, Phenethylamine[36] Amphetamines and mescaline also found<br />
<br />
''Acacia schottii''<br />
* β-methyl-phenethylamine<br />
<br />
''Acacia senegal''<br />
* DMT, in the leaf<br />
<br />
''Acacia simplex''<br />
*DMT and NMT, in the leaf, stem and trunk bark, 0.81% DMT in bark, MMT<br />
<br />
''Acacia taxensis''<br />
* β-methyl-phenethylamine<br />
<br />
''Acacia tenuifolia''<br />
* Psychoactive<br />
<br />
''Acacia tortilis''<br />
* DMT, NMT, and other tryptamines<br />
<br />
''Acacia sieberiana''<br />
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)<br />
<br />
''Acacia verek''<br />
* Psychoactive (Rätsch 2004)<br />
<br />
''Acacia vestita''<br />
* Tryptamine, in the leaf and stem (Trout's Notes)<br />
* Less than 0.02% total alkaloids (Hegnauer 1994)<br />
<br />
=== Anadenanthera ===<br />
''Anadenanthera colubrina'' <br />
* Seed pods contain dimethyltryptamine and the seeds bufotenin, bufotenin oxide, and oxide of dimethyltryptamine (GRANIER-DOYEUX 1965)<br />
* Leaves, Bark, and Seeds contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT and related compounds (Schultes 1977) <br />
<br />
''Anadenanthera macrocarpa''<br />
* Seed pods contain dimethyltryptamine and the seeds bufotenin, bufotenin oxide, and oxide of dimethyltryptamine (GRANIER-DOYEUX 1965)<br />
<br />
=== Desmodium ===<br />
''Desmodium caudatum''<br />
* Roots: 0.087% DMT, Bufotenine-N-oxide 0.03% (Trout's Notes) <br />
<br />
''Desmodium gangeticum''<br />
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT, whole plant, roots, stems, leaves (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Desmodium gyrans''<br />
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT, leaves, roots (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Desmodium pulchellum''<br />
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT, whole plant, roots, stems, leaves, flowers (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Desmodium racemosum''<br />
* 5-MEO-DMT (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Desmodium triflorum'' <br />
* DMT-N-oxide, roots (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Lespedeza bicolor'' var. japonica<br />
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in leaves and root bark (Ott)<br />
<br />
=== Mimosa ===<br />
''Mimosa hostilis''<br />
* Root Bark contains DMT - 0.31% to 0.57% (Schultes 1977)<br />
<br />
''Mimosa scabrella''<br />
* DMT in bark (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Mimosa verrucosa''<br />
* DMT (Schultes 1969) <br />
<br />
''Mucuna pruriens''<br />
* Leaves, seeds, stems and roots contain L-Dopa, Serotonin, 5-HTP, and Nicotine, as well as N,N-DMT, Bufotenine, and 5-MeO-DMT (Erowid)<br />
<br />
''Petalostylis labicheoides'' var. casseoides<br />
* DMT in leaves and stems (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Diplopterys cabrerana'' <br />
* 1.3% DMT (Shulgin, TIHKAL) <br />
* Contains DMT (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Horsfieldia superba''<br />
* 5-MeO-DMT and beta-carbolines (Jossang et al. 1991)<br />
<br />
''Iryanthera ulei'' <br />
* 5-MEO-DMT in bark (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Osteophloem platyspermum''<br />
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark (Ott) <br />
<br />
=== Virola===<br />
''Virola calophylla''<br />
* Leaves 0.149% DMT (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Virola carinata''<br />
* DMT in leaves (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Virola divergens''<br />
* DMT in leaves (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Virola elongata''<br />
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark and leaves (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Virola melinonii''<br />
* DMT in bark (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Virola multinervia''<br />
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark and leaves (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Virola pavonis''<br />
* DMT in leaves (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Virola peruviana''<br />
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Virola rufuta''<br />
* Alkaloids in bark and root, 95% of which is 5-MeO-DMT (Shulgin, TIHKAL)<br />
<br />
''Virola sebifera''<br />
* DMT in bark (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Virola theiodora''<br />
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark, roots, leaves and flowers (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Virola venosa''<br />
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in roots and leaves (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Psychotria carthaginensis'' <br />
* 0.2% average DMT in dried leaves (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Psychotria viridis''<br />
* Leaves contain DMT - 0.10% to 0.66% (McKenna)<br />
<br />
==Sources==<br />
<sub><br />
<br />
Southon et al. 1994. Phytochemical Dictionary of the Leguminosae. CRC Press. p. 71.<br />
<br />
</sub><br />
<br />
[[Category:Botanics]]</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Containing_PlantsDMT Containing Plants2009-02-21T08:25:05Z<p>I*i*b: Split second list down a bit, added sub heads</p>
<hr />
<div>{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a work in progress -- its content throughout is not yet complete.}}<br />
<br />
==DMT Containing plants==<br />
The following is a list of plants known to contain tryptamines.<br />
<br />
===List===<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:anadenanthera_peregrina_flowers.jpg|thumb|''Anadenanthera peregrina'']]<br />
|'''Tryptamines known to be present in ''A. peregrina'' ''' (Southon et al. 1994)Bufotenine (seeds)Bufotenine N-oxide (seeds)N,N-Dimethyltryptamine N-oxide (seeds)N,N-Dimethyltryptamine (bark)(pods)(seeds)5-Methoxy-N-methyltryptamine (bark)O-Methylbufotenine (bark) (seeds)N-Methyltryptamine (bark)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:arundo_donax.jpg|thumb|''Arundo donax'']]<br />
|Entire Plant contains 5-MeO-DMT (Shulgin, TIHKAL)Flowers contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, and 5-MeO-NMT (Shulgin, TIHKAL)Roots contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, 5-MeO-NMT, Bufotenine, bufotenidine, dehydrobufotenidine (Shulgin, TIHKAL)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:desmanthus.jpg|thumb|''Desmanthus illinoensis'']]<br />
|Root contains DMT - 0.200% (Ott)Root Bark contains DMT - 0.340% (Ott)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:phalaris_arund.jpg|thumb|''Phalaris arundinacea'']]<br />
|Leaves contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, and related compounds (Smith 1977)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:phalaris_aquatica.jpg|thumb|''Phalaris aquatica''/''Phalaris tuberosa'']]<br />
|Leaves and seedlings contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, and related compounds (Smith 1977)DMT - 0.100% (erowid)5-MeO-DMT - 0.022% (erowid)5-OH-DMT - 0.005% (erowid)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:phragmites_australis.jpg|thumb|''Phragmites australis'']]<br />
|DMT in roots (Ott)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[Image:Delosperma acuminatum2.jpg|thumb|''Delosperma acuminatum'']]<br />
|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:delosperma_acuminatum.jpg|thumb|''Delosperma cooperi'']]<br />
|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:iceplantbrighteyes-may.jpg|thumb|''Delosperma ecklonis'']]<br />
|DMT (Trout's Notes)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:Delosperma_esterhuyseniae.jpg|thumb|''Delosperma esterhuyseniae'']]<br />
|DMT (Trout's Notes)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:NoImage.png|thumb|''Delosperma hallii'']]<br />
|5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:NoImage.png|thumb|''Delosperma harazianum'']]<br />
|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:NoImage.png|thumb|''Delosperma hirtum'']]<br />
|DMT (Trout's Notes)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:DelospermaLydenbergense.jpg|thumb|''Delosperma lydenbergense'']]<br />
|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:NoImage.png|thumb|''Delosperma nubigenum'']]<br />
|5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:NoImage.png|thumb|''Delosperma pageanum'']]<br />
|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:NoImage.png|thumb|''Delosperma pergamentaceum'']]<br />
|Traces of DMT (Trout's Notes)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:180px-Delosperma_tradescantioides_leafs_IMGP0042.jpg|thumb|''Delosperma tradescantioides'']]<br />
|DMT (Trout's Notes)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:petalostylis_cassioides.jpg|thumb|''Petalostylis cassioides'']]<br />
|0.4-0.5% tryptamine, DMT, etc. in leaves and stems (Johns et al 1966)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:NoImage.png|thumb|''Acacia acuminata'']]<br />
|Up to 1.5% alkaloids, mainly consisting of tryptamine in leaf (Lycaeum)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:NoImage.png|thumb|''Acacia alpina'']]<br />
|Active principles in leaf (M.Bock)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:NoImage.png|thumb|''Acacia angustifolia'']]<br />
|Psychoactive Tryptamines (Rätsch 2004)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:NoImage.png|thumb|''Acacia angustissima'']]<br />
|β-methyl-phenethylamine (Glasby 1991)NMT and DMT in leaf, 1.1-10.2 ppm (McSweeney et al. 2005)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
| [[image:NoImage.png|thumb|''Acacia auriculiformis'']]<br />
|5-MeO-DMT in stem bark (Lycaeum)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Acacia ===<br />
''Acacia baileyana'' <br />
0.02% tryptamine and β-carbolines, in the leaf, Tetrahydroharman (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Acacia berlandieri'' <br />
Amphetamine, Methamphetamine, N,N-Dimethylamphetamine, 4-Methoxyamphetamine, 4-Hydroxyamphetamine (Shulgin 2001) <br />
DMT and others (Phytochem. 199<br />
<br />
''Acacia catechu'' <br />
DMT and other tryptamines in leaf, bark (Trout's Notes)<br />
<br />
''Acacia caven''<br />
Psychoactive<br />
<br />
''Acacia colei''<br />
DMT (Dr. Karl and abc.net.au 2005)<br />
<br />
''Acacia constricta''<br />
β-methyl-phenethylamine[12]<br />
<br />
''Acacia complanata''<br />
0.3% alkaloids in leaf and stem, N-methyl-tetrahydroharman with traces of tetrahydroharman (Johns et al. 1966)<br />
<br />
''Acacia confusa'' <br />
N-chloromethyl-N,N-dimethyltryptamine, N-methyltryptamine, N,N-dimethyltryptamine, and N,N-dimethyltryptamine-N-oxide (Quinn et al. 2006)<br />
<br />
''Acacia cornigera''<br />
Psychoactive,[8] Tryptamines[27]<br />
<br />
''Acacia cultriformis'' <br />
Tryptamine in the leaf and stem (Trout's Notes)<br />
<br />
''Acacia farnesiana'' <br />
Tryptamines and phenethylamines (Lyceaum)<br />
N-Methyl-Beta-Phenethylamine (Duke 1992)<br />
<br />
''Acacia filiciana''<br />
Psychoactive<br />
<br />
''Acacia floribunda''<br />
Tryptamine, phenethylamine,[33] in flowers[15] other tryptamines,[34] phenethylamines<br />
<br />
''Acacia georginae''<br />
Psychoactive,[8] plus deadly toxins<br />
<br />
''Acacia greggii''<br />
N-methyl-β-phenethylamine,[12] phenethylamine[36]<br />
<br />
''Acacia harpophylla''<br />
Phenethylamine, hordenine at a ratio of 2:3 in dried leaves, 0.6% total[6]<br />
<br />
''Acacia holoserica''<br />
Hordenine, 1.2% in bark[6]<br />
<br />
''Acacia horrida'' <br />
Psychoactive<br />
<br />
''Acacia implexa''<br />
Psychoactive<br />
<br />
''Acacia karroo''<br />
Psychoactive<br />
<br />
''Acacia kempeana''<br />
Psychoactive<br />
<br />
''Acacia kettlewelliae''<br />
1.5[6]-1.88%[38] alkaloids, 92% consisting of phenylethylamine.[6] 0.9% N-methyl-2- <br />
phenylethylamine found a different time<br />
<br />
''Acacia laeta''<br />
DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)<br />
<br />
''Acacia lingulata''<br />
Psychoactive<br />
<br />
''Acacia longifolia'' <br />
0.2% tryptamine in bark, leaves, some in flowers, phenylethylamine in flowers (Hegnauer 1994)<br />
DMT in plant (Lyceaum)<br />
<br />
''Acacia macradenia''<br />
Tryptamine<br />
<br />
''Acacia maidenii''<br />
Bark of A. maidenii contains 0.6% of N-methyltryptamine and DMT in the proportions approx. 2:3 (Fitzgerald & Sioumis 1965)<br />
<br />
''Acacia mangium''<br />
Psychoactive<br />
<br />
''Acacia melanoxylon'' <br />
DMT in the bark and leaf, less than 0.02% total alkaloids (Hegnauer 1994)<br />
<br />
''Acacia mellifera'' <br />
DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)<br />
<br />
''Acacia nilotica'' <br />
DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)<br />
<br />
''Acacia obtusifolia''<br />
0.4 to 0.5 % DMT in the dried bark (Csiro 1990)<br />
<br />
''Acacia oerfota''<br />
Less than 0.1% DMT in leaf (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Acacia penninervis''<br />
Psychoactive<br />
<br />
''Acacia phlebophylla'' <br />
0.3% DMT in leaf, NMT (Trout's Notes)<br />
<br />
''Acacia platensis''<br />
Psychoactive<br />
<br />
''Acacia podalyriaefolia'' <br />
Tryptamine in the leaf (Trout's Notes)<br />
0.5% to 2% DMT in fresh bark, phenethylamine trace amounts (Hegnauer 1994)<br />
<br />
''Acacia polyacantha'' <br />
DMT in leaf (Trout's Notes)<br />
<br />
''Acacia pycantha''<br />
Psychoactive,[8] but less than 0.02% total alkaloids<br />
<br />
''Acacia retinodes'' <br />
DMT and MMT (www.factorey.ch/Eins.htm) <br />
Less than 0.02% total alkaloids found (Hegnauer 1994)<br />
<br />
''Acacia roemeriana''<br />
β-methyl-phenethylamine<br />
<br />
''Acacia rigidula''<br />
DMT, NMT, tryptamine, amphetamines, mescaline, nicotine and others (Phytochem. 199 <br />
<br />
''Acacia salicina''<br />
Psychoactive[8][9] Ash used in Pituri.<br />
<br />
''Acacia sassa''<br />
Psychoactive<br />
<br />
''Acacia schaffneri''<br />
β-methyl-phenethylamine, Phenethylamine[36] Amphetamines and mescaline also found<br />
<br />
''Acacia schottii''<br />
β-methyl-phenethylamine<br />
<br />
''Acacia senegal''<br />
DMT, in the leaf<br />
<br />
''Acacia simplex''<br />
DMT and NMT, in the leaf, stem and trunk bark, 0.81% DMT in bark, MMT<br />
<br />
''Acacia taxensis''<br />
β-methyl-phenethylamine<br />
<br />
''Acacia tenuifolia''<br />
Psychoactive<br />
<br />
''Acacia tortilis''<br />
DMT, NMT, and other tryptamines<br />
<br />
''Acacia sieberiana''<br />
DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)<br />
<br />
''Acacia verek''<br />
Psychoactive (Rätsch 2004)<br />
<br />
''Acacia vestita''<br />
Tryptamine, in the leaf and stem (Trout's Notes)<br />
Less than 0.02% total alkaloids (Hegnauer 1994)<br />
<br />
=== Anadenanthera ===<br />
''Anadenanthera colubrina'' <br />
Seed pods contain dimethyltryptamine and the seeds bufotenin, bufotenin oxide, and oxide of dimethyltryptamine (GRANIER-DOYEUX 1965)<br />
Leaves, Bark, and Seeds contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT and related compounds (Schultes 1977) <br />
<br />
''Anadenanthera macrocarpa''<br />
Seed pods contain dimethyltryptamine and the seeds bufotenin, bufotenin oxide, and oxide of dimethyltryptamine (GRANIER-DOYEUX 1965)<br />
<br />
=== Desmodium ===<br />
''Desmodium caudatum''<br />
Roots: 0.087% DMT, Bufotenine-N-oxide 0.03% (Trout's Notes) <br />
<br />
''Desmodium gangeticum''<br />
DMT, 5-MEO-DMT, whole plant, roots, stems, leaves (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Desmodium gyrans''<br />
DMT, 5-MEO-DMT, leaves, roots (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Desmodium pulchellum''<br />
DMT, 5-MEO-DMT, whole plant, roots, stems, leaves, flowers (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Desmodium racemosum''<br />
5-MEO-DMT (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Desmodium triflorum'' <br />
DMT-N-oxide, roots (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Lespedeza bicolor'' var. japonica<br />
DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in leaves and root bark (Ott)<br />
<br />
=== Mimosa ===<br />
''Mimosa hostilis''<br />
Root Bark contains DMT - 0.31% to 0.57% (Schultes 1977)<br />
<br />
''Mimosa scabrella''<br />
DMT in bark (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Mimosa verrucosa''<br />
DMT (Schultes 1969) <br />
<br />
''Mucuna pruriens''<br />
leaves, seeds, stems and roots contain L-Dopa, Serotonin, 5-HTP, and Nicotine, as well as N,N-DMT, Bufotenine, and 5-MeO-DMT (Erowid)<br />
<br />
''Petalostylis labicheoides'' var. casseoides<br />
DMT in leaves and stems (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Diplopterys cabrerana'' <br />
1.3% DMT (Shulgin, TIHKAL) <br />
Contains DMT (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Horsfieldia superba''<br />
5-MeO-DMT and beta-carbolines (Jossang et al. 1991)<br />
<br />
''Iryanthera ulei'' <br />
5-MEO-DMT in bark (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Osteophloem platyspermum''<br />
DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark (Ott) <br />
<br />
=== Virola===<br />
''Virola calophylla''<br />
Leaves 0.149% DMT (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Virola carinata''<br />
DMT in leaves (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Virola divergens''<br />
DMT in leaves (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Virola elongata''<br />
DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark and leaves (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Virola melinonii''<br />
DMT in bark (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Virola multinervia''<br />
DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark and leaves (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Virola pavonis''<br />
DMT in leaves (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Virola peruviana''<br />
DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Virola rufuta''<br />
Alkaloids in bark and root, 95% of which is 5-MeO-DMT (Shulgin, TIHKAL)<br />
<br />
''Virola sebifera''<br />
DMT in bark (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Virola theiodora''<br />
DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark, roots, leaves and flowers (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Virola venosa''<br />
DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in roots and leaves (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Psychotria carthaginensis'' <br />
0.2% average DMT in dried leaves (Ott) <br />
<br />
''Psychotria viridis''<br />
Leaves contain DMT - 0.10% to 0.66% (McKenna)<br />
<br />
==Sources==<br />
<sub><br />
<br />
Southon et al. 1994. Phytochemical Dictionary of the Leguminosae. CRC Press. p. 71.<br />
<br />
</sub><br />
<br />
[[Category:Botanics]]</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Community_portalDMT-Nexus Wiki:Community portal2009-02-20T23:36:52Z<p>I*i*b: Added limonene tek to the "to be reviewed" list</p>
<hr />
<div>* [http://www.dmt-nexus.com Our Home page]<br />
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum Our forum]<br />
<br />
== DMT-Nexus Forum Threads in Regards to the Wiki ==<br />
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=29 Forum entry for discussion about the content of the DMT-Nexus Wiki]<br />
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3613 DMT-Nexus Wiki Renewal]<br />
<br />
== ToDo List ==<br />
Here is a ToDo list for work that has to be done at our Wiki, listed in order of priority.<br />
<br />
* Existing Articles:<br />
** [[The Nexian DMT Handbook]] -> write up of several subjects is needed<br />
** [[DMT Containing Plants]] -> Layout of all plants needs to be done (only top list is done)<br />
** [[Scientific Articles on Psychedelics]] -> All the articles need to be linked to their appropriate files.<br />
* New Articles:<br />
** All the Exttraction Teks (DMT ''and'' allies like [http://www.erowid.org/plants/mimosa/mimosa_chemistry1.shtml Nomans Tek])<br />
** [[Jungle Spice]] (Creating a Wiki out of [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1115 Entropymancers] excellent script.<br />
** [[Mimosa Hostilis]] (Cultivation section needed, [[Mimosa Hostilis#Refinery for the Purpose of Extraction|Refinery for the Purpose of Extraction]] needs additional steps and photos)<br />
** [[Freeze Precipitation]]<br />
** [[The Machine]]<br />
** [[Acid/Base]]<br />
** [[Straight To Base]]<br />
** [[DMT Potentiators]] (About potentiators and their interaction with DMT, e.g. Theobromine)<br />
** [[Pharmahuasca]] [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1363]<br />
** [[Washing Spice]] Page started, needs clean up and expansion<br />
** Teks:<br />
*** [[The DMT Handbook]] [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=28289] (needs writeup)<br />
* Other:<br />
** [[Special:Categories|Categorization]] of Articles<br />
** Templates for Materials List and Procedures and Botanics Info<br />
<br />
== To Be Reviewed ==<br />
* [[Lazyman's tek]] [http://www.entheogen.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9217] (Transcribed / marked-up - please check)<br />
* [[Lextek]] [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Image:Lextek_v1.pdf] (Transcribed / marked-up - needs images adding and a check over)<br />
* [[Vovin's tek]] [http://dmt-nexus.com/doc/Vovin%27s%20Unabridged%20Extraction%20guide.pdf] (Transcribed / marked-up - please check)<br />
* [[Noman's tek]] [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/doc/nomans_dmt_extraction_tek.pdf] (Transcribed / marked-up - please check)<br />
* [[Shaggy's Jungle Tek]] (Transcribed / marked-up - please check) (Also need a reference)<br />
* [[Marsofold's tek]] [http://dmt-nexus.com/webackup/tek1-marsfolds.htm] (Transcribed / marked-up - please check)<br />
* [[Spice Extraction-The FASA Approach]] [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Image:SPICE_EXTRACTION-The_FASA_approach.pdf] (Transcribed / marked-up - please check)<br />
* [[Nontoxic limonene tek]] [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/Default.aspx?g=posts&t=1308] (Transcribed / marked-up - please check)</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Nontoxic_limonene_tekNontoxic limonene tek2009-02-20T23:34:42Z<p>I*i*b: Re-added reference and header note accidentally deleted in last edit.</p>
<hr />
<div>{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of the Nontoxic Limomene Tek<ref>NONTOXIC LIMONENE TEK[http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/Default.aspx?g=posts&t=1308]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}<br />
<br />
=== Method ===<br />
# Take some root bark powder (or pieces or whatever), put it in a crock pot, and add some basified tap water (roughly 1.75L H<sub>2</sub>O was used for 100g rb, with I think a little over 100g NaOH mixed into the water prior to adding it to the rb). <br />
# Add some limonene, doesn't really matter how much but SWIM likes to use a lot, ~500mL, cuz he recycleth it. Put the crock pot on the "keep warm" setting and let it set for awhile. SWIM likes it to set overnite so the lye has a chance to gnaw away at the root bark cell walls. <br />
# Stir it all up so all the magick has a chance to come into contact with the limo. Then let it settle again. <br />
# CAREFULLY pour off the limo into a receptacle with large surface area such as a baking dish or another crock pot liner or a large bowl or something. The idea is to be pouring into a wide enough area that anything that runs down the side of the ceramic crock pot liner still drips off the bottom into the receptacle. Try to pour off only the limonene, but if some basified solution makes it in then that's ok too. <br />
# Put the limo into a sep funnel. If any basified soln spilled over, you may have to wait a day or so for it all to settle to the bottom - the limo should be clear, not cloudy. Drain off any basified soln once it settles. <br />
# Wash the limo by adding 1&ndash;2mL of 10% ammonia. If your limo is clear and clean (i.e. if you managed to pour off only limo and no basified soln) you might get away with skipping this step, but I'd do it anyway just cuz. If your limo is dirty cuz you poured off lotsa base with it, and especially if'n you were in a hurry and didn't wait 'till the limo was completely clear, you might wanna wash it twice or even thrice. (It's not too big a deal though, cuz any NaOH that makes it to the final phase will be converted to sodium acetate when you add vinegar, and sodium acetate seems to be harmless in small amounts. The ammo washing is mainly just for purity's sake and can actually be left out entirely without bad results&hellip; SWIM knows cuz he didn't do it the first time he came up with this recipe.) SWIM then drains the ammonia back into his base soup so any magick it pulls can be recovered on his next limo pull. <br />
# Wash away any ammonia residue with 1ml tap water. This seems like a good idea cuz the next step is adding vinegar, which may react with ammonia to produce ammonium acetate, which we don't want (I'm really not sure about this, anyone who knows more than I do about what happens when you mix the two and whether it's dangerous or not, please chime in!). Again, drain the tap water wash back into your base soup to recover any magick it pulleth out. <br />
## OPTIONAL: If you want smoke-able magick without resorting to petroleum, the best way SWIM has found so far is to add non-denatured lab-grade ethanol to the limo at this point. Some freebase magick will migrate to the ETOH which can then be evaporated and smoked (where legal). However this is not really cost effective, so he's still hoping to find a better way. But in the mean time, he's happy knowing it can be done. <br />
# Add vine gar (vinegar) unto the limonene. Dunno how much is optimal yet, probly 100&ndash;200mL is good. Swish it around some&hellip; sometimes SWIM shaketh the hell out of it, which seems to make the gar a bit cloudier but the end result is still good. Other times he just swirls it around and then upends it while it's still swirling. Experiment to find your preferred method, but since emulsions aren't really a problem at this point it really doesn't seem to matter much, IMO. <br />
# Drain off the vine gar into a baking dish and repeat step 8 once or twice more to pull all the magick out of the limo and into the gar. The baking dish, with the combined gar pulls, can then be placed under a phan fro evap-o-ration. SWIM has a glasstop stove, so he puts his ceramic dish on a burner on "low" with a huge fan pointing at it. Your final product is gonna be sticky and in salt form, so there's no danger of it evaporating or blowing away. <br />
# Repeat steps 2&ndash;9 several times until no more magick is yielded (or so little that you decide it's not worth the trouble any more). You can recycle used limo indefinately. It might be a good idea to exhaust the base soup with used limo, then add some fresh limo for one last pull just to see if it gets anything that the recycled limo misses&hellip; <br />
<br />
=== Notes ===<br />
It's probably a good idea to evap each gar pull separately the first time you do this, so you can get a feel for how many pulls it takes to get all the magick out of your bark. Then, on future extractions of the same bark, you might wanna combine all your gar pulls and evap them all at once, just so that your end product is of a standardized quality. <br />
<br />
Your final product will not be 100% pure alkaloid, but it will be close enough. Weigh it as if it were pure, you'll not notice a difference. Vine gar leaves a little residue behind for some reason, but it's not a big deal. Also some plant oils might make it across, but again this is negligible. <br />
<br />
Scrape up the goo left over in your evap dish after the gar evaporates, and gelcap it. The best way to do this is to scrape some up onto the edge of a razor blade and then just run the empty gelcap along the side of the blade in such a way that all the goo goes into the gelcap. It's easy with a little practice. 200&ndash;300mg seems to be an average dose, eaten shortly after 200&ndash;300mg of harmaloid freebase extract (made using this TEK: http://www.dmt-nexus.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=3206 ) <br />
<br />
As for the efficiency of this TEK, SWIM has already gotten several grams of product from 100g bark, and there's still more coming. Of course, being in salt form adds the weight of the acetate into the equation, but still&hellip; it's ridiculous what kind of yield he's getting with this stuff! If one really wanted to know, one could presumably exhaust the soup with limonene until it quit yielding anything, and then pull w/toluene to see if anything else could be recovered. SWIM was gonna try this at one point but he's already got so much from the limonene that he's not sure if he's ever gonna be able to bring himself to work with toluene again, since he's kinda gotten spoiled by how non-disgusting limonene is! Plus he really feels like petroleum pisses off the plant spirits or disrespects them somehow, though of course this is merely subjective hooey IMO <br />
<br />
Experientially, you can expect a much more "holistic" experience than with smoked DMT. This seems to pull a full-spectrum alkaloidal extract, with n-n, "jungle," and something else that produces a really cool body high that feels awesome, like what MDMA should feel like, or like a ten billion X blue lotus extract or something. Of course different barks will give different bites<br />
<br />
== Reference ==<br />
<references/><br />
<br />
[[Category:Extraction Tek]]</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Nontoxic_limonene_tekNontoxic limonene tek2009-02-20T23:32:09Z<p>I*i*b: Added transcription of limonen tek</p>
<hr />
<div>=== Method ===<br />
# Take some root bark powder (or pieces or whatever), put it in a crock pot, and add some basified tap water (roughly 1.75L H<sub>2</sub>O was used for 100g rb, with I think a little over 100g NaOH mixed into the water prior to adding it to the rb). <br />
# Add some limonene, doesn't really matter how much but SWIM likes to use a lot, ~500mL, cuz he recycleth it. Put the crock pot on the "keep warm" setting and let it set for awhile. SWIM likes it to set overnite so the lye has a chance to gnaw away at the root bark cell walls. <br />
# Stir it all up so all the magick has a chance to come into contact with the limo. Then let it settle again. <br />
# CAREFULLY pour off the limo into a receptacle with large surface area such as a baking dish or another crock pot liner or a large bowl or something. The idea is to be pouring into a wide enough area that anything that runs down the side of the ceramic crock pot liner still drips off the bottom into the receptacle. Try to pour off only the limonene, but if some basified solution makes it in then that's ok too. <br />
# Put the limo into a sep funnel. If any basified soln spilled over, you may have to wait a day or so for it all to settle to the bottom - the limo should be clear, not cloudy. Drain off any basified soln once it settles. <br />
# Wash the limo by adding 1&ndash;2mL of 10% ammonia. If your limo is clear and clean (i.e. if you managed to pour off only limo and no basified soln) you might get away with skipping this step, but I'd do it anyway just cuz. If your limo is dirty cuz you poured off lotsa base with it, and especially if'n you were in a hurry and didn't wait 'till the limo was completely clear, you might wanna wash it twice or even thrice. (It's not too big a deal though, cuz any NaOH that makes it to the final phase will be converted to sodium acetate when you add vinegar, and sodium acetate seems to be harmless in small amounts. The ammo washing is mainly just for purity's sake and can actually be left out entirely without bad results&hellip; SWIM knows cuz he didn't do it the first time he came up with this recipe.) SWIM then drains the ammonia back into his base soup so any magick it pulls can be recovered on his next limo pull. <br />
# Wash away any ammonia residue with 1ml tap water. This seems like a good idea cuz the next step is adding vinegar, which may react with ammonia to produce ammonium acetate, which we don't want (I'm really not sure about this, anyone who knows more than I do about what happens when you mix the two and whether it's dangerous or not, please chime in!). Again, drain the tap water wash back into your base soup to recover any magick it pulleth out. <br />
## OPTIONAL: If you want smoke-able magick without resorting to petroleum, the best way SWIM has found so far is to add non-denatured lab-grade ethanol to the limo at this point. Some freebase magick will migrate to the ETOH which can then be evaporated and smoked (where legal). However this is not really cost effective, so he's still hoping to find a better way. But in the mean time, he's happy knowing it can be done. <br />
# Add vine gar (vinegar) unto the limonene. Dunno how much is optimal yet, probly 100&ndash;200mL is good. Swish it around some&hellip; sometimes SWIM shaketh the hell out of it, which seems to make the gar a bit cloudier but the end result is still good. Other times he just swirls it around and then upends it while it's still swirling. Experiment to find your preferred method, but since emulsions aren't really a problem at this point it really doesn't seem to matter much, IMO. <br />
# Drain off the vine gar into a baking dish and repeat step 8 once or twice more to pull all the magick out of the limo and into the gar. The baking dish, with the combined gar pulls, can then be placed under a phan fro evap-o-ration. SWIM has a glasstop stove, so he puts his ceramic dish on a burner on "low" with a huge fan pointing at it. Your final product is gonna be sticky and in salt form, so there's no danger of it evaporating or blowing away. <br />
# Repeat steps 2&ndash;9 several times until no more magick is yielded (or so little that you decide it's not worth the trouble any more). You can recycle used limo indefinately. It might be a good idea to exhaust the base soup with used limo, then add some fresh limo for one last pull just to see if it gets anything that the recycled limo misses&hellip; <br />
<br />
=== Notes ===<br />
It's probably a good idea to evap each gar pull separately the first time you do this, so you can get a feel for how many pulls it takes to get all the magick out of your bark. Then, on future extractions of the same bark, you might wanna combine all your gar pulls and evap them all at once, just so that your end product is of a standardized quality. <br />
<br />
Your final product will not be 100% pure alkaloid, but it will be close enough. Weigh it as if it were pure, you'll not notice a difference. Vine gar leaves a little residue behind for some reason, but it's not a big deal. Also some plant oils might make it across, but again this is negligible. <br />
<br />
Scrape up the goo left over in your evap dish after the gar evaporates, and gelcap it. The best way to do this is to scrape some up onto the edge of a razor blade and then just run the empty gelcap along the side of the blade in such a way that all the goo goes into the gelcap. It's easy with a little practice. 200&ndash;300mg seems to be an average dose, eaten shortly after 200&ndash;300mg of harmaloid freebase extract (made using this TEK: http://www.dmt-nexus.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=3206 ) <br />
<br />
As for the efficiency of this TEK, SWIM has already gotten several grams of product from 100g bark, and there's still more coming. Of course, being in salt form adds the weight of the acetate into the equation, but still&hellip; it's ridiculous what kind of yield he's getting with this stuff! If one really wanted to know, one could presumably exhaust the soup with limonene until it quit yielding anything, and then pull w/toluene to see if anything else could be recovered. SWIM was gonna try this at one point but he's already got so much from the limonene that he's not sure if he's ever gonna be able to bring himself to work with toluene again, since he's kinda gotten spoiled by how non-disgusting limonene is! Plus he really feels like petroleum pisses off the plant spirits or disrespects them somehow, though of course this is merely subjective hooey IMO <br />
<br />
Experientially, you can expect a much more "holistic" experience than with smoked DMT. This seems to pull a full-spectrum alkaloidal extract, with n-n, "jungle," and something else that produces a really cool body high that feels awesome, like what MDMA should feel like, or like a ten billion X blue lotus extract or something. Of course different barks will give different bites</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Community_portalDMT-Nexus Wiki:Community portal2009-02-20T23:13:37Z<p>I*i*b: /* ToDo List */</p>
<hr />
<div>* [http://www.dmt-nexus.com Our Home page]<br />
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum Our forum]<br />
<br />
== DMT-Nexus Forum Threads in Regards to the Wiki ==<br />
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=29 Forum entry for discussion about the content of the DMT-Nexus Wiki]<br />
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3613 DMT-Nexus Wiki Renewal]<br />
<br />
== ToDo List ==<br />
Here is a ToDo list for work that has to be done at our Wiki, listed in order of priority.<br />
<br />
* Existing Articles:<br />
** [[The Nexian DMT Handbook]] -> write up of several subjects is needed<br />
** [[DMT Containing Plants]] -> Layout of all plants needs to be done (only top list is done)<br />
** [[Scientific Articles on Psychedelics]] -> All the articles need to be linked to their appropriate files.<br />
* New Articles:<br />
** All the Exttraction Teks (DMT ''and'' allies like [http://www.erowid.org/plants/mimosa/mimosa_chemistry1.shtml Nomans Tek])<br />
** [[Jungle Spice]] (Creating a Wiki out of [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1115 Entropymancers] excellent script.<br />
** [[Mimosa Hostilis]] (Cultivation section needed, [[Mimosa Hostilis#Refinery for the Purpose of Extraction|Refinery for the Purpose of Extraction]] needs additional steps and photos)<br />
** [[Freeze Precipitation]]<br />
** [[The Machine]]<br />
** [[Acid/Base]]<br />
** [[Straight To Base]]<br />
** [[DMT Potentiators]] (About potentiators and their interaction with DMT, e.g. Theobromine)<br />
** [[Pharmahuasca]] [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1363]<br />
** [[Washing Spice]] Page started, needs clean up and expansion<br />
** Teks:<br />
*** [[Nontoxic limonene tek]] [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/Default.aspx?g=posts&t=1308] (needs writeup)<br />
*** [[The DMT Handbook]] [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=28289] (needs writeup)<br />
* Other:<br />
** [[Special:Categories|Categorization]] of Articles<br />
** Templates for Materials List and Procedures and Botanics Info<br />
<br />
== To Be Reviewed ==<br />
* [[Lazyman's tek]] [http://www.entheogen.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9217] (Transcribed / marked-up - please check)<br />
* [[Lextek]] [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Image:Lextek_v1.pdf] (Transcribed / marked-up - needs images adding and a check over)<br />
* [[Vovin's tek]] [http://dmt-nexus.com/doc/Vovin%27s%20Unabridged%20Extraction%20guide.pdf] (Transcribed / marked-up - please check)<br />
* [[Noman's tek]] [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/doc/nomans_dmt_extraction_tek.pdf] (Transcribed / marked-up - please check)<br />
* [[Shaggy's Jungle Tek]] (Transcribed / marked-up - please check) (Also need a reference)<br />
* [[Marsofold's tek]] [http://dmt-nexus.com/webackup/tek1-marsfolds.htm] (Transcribed / marked-up - please check)<br />
* [[Spice Extraction-The FASA Approach]] [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Image:SPICE_EXTRACTION-The_FASA_approach.pdf] (Transcribed / marked-up - please check)</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Talk:Washing_SpiceTalk:Washing Spice2009-02-20T20:06:33Z<p>I*i*b: New page: Dunno if this is in the right category! Thought it'd be good to have a page on washing and thought Acolon_5's post would be a good place to start.</p>
<hr />
<div>Dunno if this is in the right category!<br />
Thought it'd be good to have a page on washing and thought Acolon_5's post would be a good place to start.</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Washing_SpiceWashing Spice2009-02-20T20:00:18Z<p>I*i*b: Added Acolon_5's washing methods as thought it would be useful to have a page on washing.</p>
<hr />
<div>{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Acolon_5's Washing Tek <ref>Washing your Spice[http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1964]</ref>.}}<br />
<br />
# Get a glass and put a teaspoon of baking soda (or 1/4 teaspoon of sodium carbonate) in it. Fill with about 100&ndash;150mL luke warm/room temperature water. Stir, stir, stir. It will not all dissolved, but we are making a saturated solution so that is fine. Let all soilds settle.<br />
# Dissolve freeze preciptated spice in enough warm naphtha that is does not cloud upon cooling. Less is better, but use enough to prevent precipitation. I use 1/2 pint canning jars for this. For 1g of spice I would use 200mL of warm naphtha or bestine.<br />
# Take a baster/syring/nasal aspirator and suck up some of the saturated baking soda water &hellip; do not get any solid baking soda in the baster. <br />
# Add until the volume of baking soda (or sodium carbonate) solution is about 1/4 the volume of naphtha.<br />
# Swirl around for about a minute, do not heat. You can shake.<br />
# After swirling I usually take my nasal aspirator (I like it better than a syringe or a turkey baster) and suck up some of the naphtha layer and squirt it into the baking soda layer &hellip; not sure if it helps or not, but it is what I always do. It just mixes it up a little better and it separates pretty quickly.<br />
# Remove naphtha layer (top layer!) save and recrystalize normally (freeze or room temp, your choice)<br />
# Trash baking soda layer (bottom layer!), or add more naphtha and attempt to recover any lost yield (I've tried without success, just not enough spice in there).<br />
<br />
I imagine that this would work with naphtha just pulled from the basified mimosa juice (uncrystalized) &hellip; however, I like to freeze precipitate first. It seems to get a much cleaner product.<br />
<br />
With the method I have outline above I have taken yellow oily freeze precipitated spice that badly burns the tongue and turned it into clear spice that no longer burns (just a little bitter). My best batches of spice were made using this technique.<br />
<br />
The taste and vaporization also seems to be improved.<br />
<br />
Total yield loss after washing AND recrystalization from a gram is about 80mgs. I've read some threads about how yellow spice is better/smoother than clear spice. I am not in that group of people. I think that crystal clear/white spice gives the best experience.<br />
<br />
Also after final recrystalization I will put my mason jar containg my spice (no solvent, just spice) into a hot water bath and melt it down. I then put it into the freezer for about 10 minutes. The spice that comes out is denser, easier to vaporize, and for some reason more potent. I highly suggest trying the spice meltdown method &hellip; you will be suprised at the results!<br />
<br />
== Reference ==<br />
<references/><br />
<br />
[[Category:Tek]]</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Noman%27s_tekNoman's tek2009-02-18T19:23:54Z<p>I*i*b: Removed unnecessary paragraph break</p>
<hr />
<div>{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Noman's Tek<ref>DMT for the Masses. . . a mhrb extraction tek by Noman<br />
[http://www.dmt-nexus.com/doc/nomans_dmt_extraction_tek.pdf]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
=== DMT for the Masses ===<br />
&hellip; a mhrb extraction tek by Noman<br />
<br />
An updated and edited reprint of the same-named article from The Entheogen Review, Autumnal Equinox 2006, Volume XV, Number 3, edited by noman and zhah March, 2007.<br />
<br />
==== Disclaimer ====<br />
First things first. Performing this procedure is illegal in most countries. I do not advocate performing it where illegal and I do not perform it myself where illegal.<br />
<br />
The intent of this tek is to simplify the extraction procedure as much as possible and make it doable for the average person in the average kitchen in an evening. While I think that I have accomplished this, it does not mean that one does not have to do their homework. You should read a few teks before deciding on one and research the chemicals and procedures that you will be using. I don’t give instructions for decanting, siphoning, and filtering, for example, because I assume that you have educated yourself on these simple procedures and that I don’t have to clutter up my tek with them. You should treat this procedure as a starting point from which it is up to you to discover the best way to proceed based upon the materials and equipment available to you.<br />
<br />
Okay, so onward to DMT for the Masses.<br />
<br />
Have fun, be safe, and share your findings!<br />
<br />
==== Materials ====<br />
* Dust mask, safety goggles and rubber gloves<br />
* [[Mimosa Hostilis]] root bark<br />
* A coffee grinder or heavy duty blender (one that will crush ice)<br />
* Mixing jar – this should be glass with a wide mouth and a tight fitting lid. A quart jar can do 50g of bark, a gallon pickle jar can do 200g.<br />
* Water<br />
* Lye (granulated NaOH)<br />
* Vinegar (for neutralizing lye spills)<br />
* Naptha – get VM+P and not lighter fluid<br />
* Collection jars – 4 wide mouth 8 oz (250mL) jelly jars with lids<br />
* Separating apparatus – a separatory funnel is easiest but siphoning and decanting will work fine.<br />
* Coffee filters<br />
* Rubber spatula<br />
* Very cold freezer – should freeze ice cream HARD<br />
* Non-sudsy ammonia – 10% solution, e.g. “janitorial strength” from Ace hardware, is optimal, but 5% “household strength” will do as well.<br />
* Eye-dropper<br />
<br />
==== Extraction Procedure ====<br />
# Pulverize the bark until it’s just fiber and pink/purple dust. It should be snapped into small pieces and run through a coffee grinder or blender at high speed. You may need pruning shears to cut the bark small enough to grind properly. It needs to be completely broken down. The dust created is very fine and astringent to the respiratory tract. Unless you dig big cakey purple boogers, wear a mask.<br />
# Mix 15mL water and 1g lye per gram of bark in the mixing jar. For example: 50g bark would require 750mL water and 50g lye. One level tablespoon of lye weighs about 15g, though this can vary considerably, better to use a scale. Note that lye is dangerous. Blind you forever dangerous. Wear eye protection and have a bottle of vinegar handy as a neutralizer and for clean up. Add the lye to the water slowly stirring constantly until completely dissolved.<br />
# Add the powdered bark, cap and shake the jar and let the bark soak for awhile. An hour or so.<br />
# Now add 1mL naptha per gram of bark in the mixing jar and turn the jar end over end. Do not shake or splash or there will be a tendency for the solution to form an emulsion. Simply roll the naptha around in the bark solution. Do this for one minute and then let the jar stand until the naptha has pretty much separated to the top. <br> Repeat agitation three more times.<br />
# After the final agitation, separate the two layers. The naptha (top layer) goes in one of the collection jars, the rest stays in the mixing jar with the bark.<br />
# Put the collection jar in the freezer.<br />
# Repeat steps 4 to 6 three more times. Leave the last NP extraction in the jar for a day or two, agitating occasionally to pick up any strays.<br />
# Go to bed. You should have a collection of snow globes waiting for you in the morning.<br />
# Pour each jar of naptha out through a coffee filter. Save the naptha, which can be reused in the next batch or evaporated down producing a residue which can be further refined (see recrystallization below). A lot of paste will stick to the sides of the jar, so use a small rubber spatula to scrape the sides down onto the filter as well. Spread each filter out to dry. There will still be some residue in the jars, a bit of Salvia or MJ will scrub them out nicely.<br />
# Once the paste has dried THOROUGHLY (chop and stir it a couple of times), crush any lumps up and combine it all into one coffee filter. Now wash the lot by pouring freezer temperature NON-SUDSY ammonia over it and through the coffee filter. This will remove any remaining lye and some other impurities from the extract. If you can get 10% ammonia (“janitorial strength”) all the better. Most important, though, is NON-SUDSY: shake the bottle, if it suds, get a different bottle. It won’t take much, 100mL or so for a 200g batch, just make sure all the powder is thoroughly wetted, and stir it around while washing. A good bit of the mass will wash away (25&ndash;45%) but it’s nothing you want to be smoking anyway. (Note: if you intend to recrystallize, you can omit the ammonia wash).<br />
<br />
You should be left with somewhere in the vicinity of 0.5% of the weight of the root-bark in DMT powder. It is perfectly smokable at this point, but it can be refined further by recrystallization. Although recrystallization inevitably results in loss of goods, once you’ve had a hit of DMT that left absolutely NOTHING behind in the pipe, you won’t want to use anything else.<br />
<br />
==== Recrystallization ====<br />
The idea behind recrystallization is that solvents generally hold more solute when hot than cold and that the solubility of different solutes varies differently with temperature. If a solvent with a lot of different solutes dissolved in it cools down slowly, the different solutes will precipitate individually. Naptha will work for this but heptane is better. Heptane is available as Bestine – a rubber cement remover.<br />
<br />
Place a glass container with the DMT and a glass container of the recrystallization solvent together in a pan of hot water. Shot glasses in a saucepan work well for a gram or two. The fumes from whatever solvent you use will be extremely flammable, so don’t use a gas stove or light a bowl or be otherwise stupid. The DMT will already be melting if the water is hot enough. Add the hot solvent little by little (eye-dropper), agitating until all of the DMT is dissolved. Use as little solvent as possible. It should take only about 20&ndash;30mL of solvent per gram of powder. The solvent will be a clear yellow.<br />
<br />
Leave the pan of water with the DMT container to cool to room temperature. Remove the DMT container and cool in the refrigerator, then the freezer. You will end up with DMT crystals of varying purity atop a pellet of slag which still contains quite a bit of DMT but also lye if you skipped the ammonia wash. Filter the solvent and separate the crystals from the slag. The crystals can be refined in one or two more recrystallizations into pure clear DMT if desired. The slag can also be further refined or simply redissolved into the next batch. The solvent can be reused or evaporated down and the residue scraped and cleaned.<br />
<br />
And don’t forget to scrub those jars and utensils with your favorite smoking herb!<br />
<br />
== Remarks ==<br />
According to Noman himself he was working on a revision that would include the following: <ref>Noman Tek Revisions<br />
[http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=872]</ref><br />
* "Get rid of that goddamn ammonia wash. My friend has never had trouble with it but it seems to cause problems for at least half the people that do it. I'll change it to a wash of the NP with a weak basic solution."<br />
* "Note that if pre-powdered bark is being used, 1.5 - 2X of the water called for will be required." <br />
* "Add that using heat for the last pull will increase yield. I left that out of the original for the sake of simplicity, but it probably should be mentioned." <br />
* "Go into more detail about the freeze precip. When I wrote the tek, commonly available bark was of much higher quality. Now a partial evap is sometimes necessary to get the solution concentrated enough to precip."<br />
<br />
Entropmancer advices the following to Noman: [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=872&p=2#26951]<br />
* "Noman, I have one suggestion regarding your tek. I think that calling for a bit less naphtha would make it so that peoples' extractions are concentrated enough to freeze-precip more often. (It may end up taking them one or two more pulls to get all the spice, but I think that easy freeze-precipitation is a good trade-off for one or two extra pulls). <br />SWIM found that when using somewhere around 0.4 mL of naphtha per gram of bark (doing every pull with heated naphtha), every pull except the last one freeze-precipitated easily. (This was with an A/B in a sep funnel, but I don't see why it wouldn't work as well with an STB)"<br />
<br />
== Reference ==<br />
<references/><br />
<br />
[[Category:Extraction Tek]]</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Noman%27s_tekNoman's tek2009-02-18T19:07:29Z<p>I*i*b: Mended MH link in materials list</p>
<hr />
<div>{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Noman's Tek<ref>DMT for the Masses. . . a mhrb extraction tek by Noman<br />
[http://www.dmt-nexus.com/doc/nomans_dmt_extraction_tek.pdf]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}<br />
<br />
=== DMT for the Masses ===<br />
&hellip; a mhrb extraction tek by Noman<br />
<br />
An updated and edited reprint of the same-named article from The Entheogen Review, Autumnal Equinox 2006, Volume XV, Number 3, edited by noman and zhah March, 2007.<br />
<br />
==== Disclaimer ====<br />
First things first. Performing this procedure is illegal in most countries. I do not advocate performing it where illegal and I do not perform it myself where illegal.<br />
<br />
The intent of this tek is to simplify the extraction procedure as much as possible and make it doable for the average person in the average kitchen in an evening. While I think that I have accomplished this, it does not mean that one does not have to do their homework. You should read a few teks before deciding on one and research the chemicals and procedures that you will be using. I don’t give instructions for decanting, siphoning, and filtering, for example, because I assume that you have educated yourself on these simple procedures and that I don’t have to clutter up my tek with them. You should treat this procedure as a starting point from which it is up to you to discover the best way to proceed based upon the materials and equipment available to you.<br />
<br />
Okay, so onward to DMT for the Masses.<br />
<br />
Have fun, be safe, and share your findings!<br />
<br />
==== Materials ====<br />
* Dust mask, safety goggles and rubber gloves<br />
* [[Mimosa hostilis]] root bark<br />
* A coffee grinder or heavy duty blender (one that will crush ice)<br />
* Mixing jar – this should be glass with a wide mouth and a tight fitting lid. A quart jar can do 50g of bark, a gallon pickle jar can do 200g.<br />
* Water<br />
* Lye (granulated NaOH)<br />
* Vinegar (for neutralizing lye spills)<br />
* Naptha – get VM+P and not lighter fluid<br />
* Collection jars – 4 wide mouth 8 oz (250mL) jelly jars with lids<br />
* Separating apparatus – a separatory funnel is easiest but siphoning and decanting will work fine.<br />
* Coffee filters<br />
* Rubber spatula<br />
* Very cold freezer – should freeze ice cream HARD<br />
* Non-sudsy ammonia – 10% solution, e.g. “janitorial strength” from Ace hardware, is optimal, but 5% “household strength” will do as well.<br />
* Eye-dropper<br />
<br />
==== Extraction Procedure ====<br />
# Pulverize the bark until it’s just fiber and pink/purple dust. It should be snapped into small pieces and run through a coffee grinder or blender at high speed. You may need pruning shears to cut the bark small enough to grind properly. It needs to be completely broken down. The dust created is very fine and astringent to the respiratory tract. Unless you dig big cakey purple boogers, wear a mask.<br />
# Mix 15mL water and 1g lye per gram of bark in the mixing jar. For example: 50g bark would require 750mL water and 50g lye. One level tablespoon of lye weighs about 15g, though this can vary considerably, better to use a scale. Note that lye is dangerous. <br> Blind you forever dangerous. Wear eye protection and have a bottle of vinegar handy as a neutralizer and for clean up. Add the lye to the water slowly stirring constantly until completely dissolved.<br />
# Add the powdered bark, cap and shake the jar and let the bark soak for awhile. An hour or so.<br />
# Now add 1mL naptha per gram of bark in the mixing jar and turn the jar end over end. Do not shake or splash or there will be a tendency for the solution to form an emulsion. Simply roll the naptha around in the bark solution. Do this for one minute and then let the jar stand until the naptha has pretty much separated to the top. <br> Repeat agitation three more times.<br />
# After the final agitation, separate the two layers. The naptha (top layer) goes in one of the collection jars, the rest stays in the mixing jar with the bark.<br />
# Put the collection jar in the freezer.<br />
# Repeat steps 4 to 6 three more times. Leave the last NP extraction in the jar for a day or two, agitating occasionally to pick up any strays.<br />
# Go to bed. You should have a collection of snow globes waiting for you in the morning.<br />
# Pour each jar of naptha out through a coffee filter. Save the naptha, which can be reused in the next batch or evaporated down producing a residue which can be further refined (see recrystallization below). A lot of paste will stick to the sides of the jar, so use a small rubber spatula to scrape the sides down onto the filter as well. Spread each filter out to dry. There will still be some residue in the jars, a bit of Salvia or MJ will scrub them out nicely.<br />
# Once the paste has dried THOROUGHLY (chop and stir it a couple of times), crush any lumps up and combine it all into one coffee filter. Now wash the lot by pouring freezer temperature NON-SUDSY ammonia over it and through the coffee filter. This will remove any remaining lye and some other impurities from the extract. If you can get 10% ammonia (“janitorial strength”) all the better. Most important, though, is NON-SUDSY: shake the bottle, if it suds, get a different bottle. It won’t take much, 100mL or so for a 200g batch, just make sure all the powder is thoroughly wetted, and stir it around while washing. A good bit of the mass will wash away (25&ndash;45%) but it’s nothing you want to be smoking anyway. (Note: if you intend to recrystallize, you can omit the ammonia wash).<br />
<br />
You should be left with somewhere in the vicinity of 0.5% of the weight of the root-bark in DMT powder. It is perfectly smokable at this point, but it can be refined further by recrystallization. Although recrystallization inevitably results in loss of goods, once you’ve had a hit of DMT that left absolutely NOTHING behind in the pipe, you won’t want to use anything else.<br />
<br />
==== Recrystallization ====<br />
The idea behind recrystallization is that solvents generally hold more solute when hot than cold and that the solubility of different solutes varies differently with temperature. If a solvent with a lot of different solutes dissolved in it cools down slowly, the different solutes will precipitate individually. Naptha will work for this but heptane is better. Heptane is available as Bestine – a rubber cement remover.<br />
<br />
Place a glass container with the DMT and a glass container of the recrystallization solvent together in a pan of hot water. Shot glasses in a saucepan work well for a gram or two. The fumes from whatever solvent you use will be extremely flammable, so don’t use a gas stove or light a bowl or be otherwise stupid. The DMT will already be melting if the water is hot enough. Add the hot solvent little by little (eye-dropper), agitating until all of the DMT is dissolved. Use as little solvent as possible. It should take only about 20&ndash;30mL of solvent per gram of powder. The solvent will be a clear yellow.<br />
<br />
Leave the pan of water with the DMT container to cool to room temperature. Remove the DMT container and cool in the refrigerator, then the freezer. You will end up with DMT crystals of varying purity atop a pellet of slag which still contains quite a bit of DMT but also lye if you skipped the ammonia wash. Filter the solvent and separate the crystals from the slag. The crystals can be refined in one or two more recrystallizations into pure clear DMT if desired. The slag can also be further refined or simply redissolved into the next batch. The solvent can be reused or evaporated down and the residue scraped and cleaned.<br />
<br />
And don’t forget to scrub those jars and utensils with your favorite smoking herb!<br />
<br />
== Reference ==<br />
<references/><br />
<br />
[[Category:Extraction Tek]]</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Noman%27s_tekNoman's tek2009-02-18T18:53:33Z<p>I*i*b: Transcribed and marked-up the Noman's tek. Please give it a check over.</p>
<hr />
<div>{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Noman's Tek<ref>DMT for the Masses. . . a mhrb extraction tek by Noman<br />
[http://www.dmt-nexus.com/doc/nomans_dmt_extraction_tek.pdf]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}<br />
<br />
=== DMT for the Masses ===<br />
&hellip; a mhrb extraction tek by Noman<br />
<br />
An updated and edited reprint of the same-named article from The Entheogen Review, Autumnal Equinox 2006, Volume XV, Number 3, edited by noman and zhah March, 2007.<br />
<br />
==== Disclaimer ====<br />
First things first. Performing this procedure is illegal in most countries. I do not advocate performing it where illegal and I do not perform it myself where illegal.<br />
<br />
The intent of this tek is to simplify the extraction procedure as much as possible and make it doable for the average person in the average kitchen in an evening. While I think that I have accomplished this, it does not mean that one does not have to do their homework. You should read a few teks before deciding on one and research the chemicals and procedures that you will be using. I don’t give instructions for decanting, siphoning, and filtering, for example, because I assume that you have educated yourself on these simple procedures and that I don’t have to clutter up my tek with them. You should treat this procedure as a starting point from which it is up to you to discover the best way to proceed based upon the materials and equipment available to you.<br />
<br />
Okay, so onward to DMT for the Masses.<br />
<br />
Have fun, be safe, and share your findings!<br />
<br />
==== Materials ====<br />
* Dust mask, safety goggles and rubber gloves<br />
* [Mimosa hostilis] root bark<br />
* A coffee grinder or heavy duty blender (one that will crush ice)<br />
* Mixing jar – this should be glass with a wide mouth and a tight fitting lid. A quart jar can do 50g of bark, a gallon pickle jar can do 200g.<br />
* Water<br />
* Lye (granulated NaOH)<br />
* Vinegar (for neutralizing lye spills)<br />
* Naptha – get VM+P and not lighter fluid<br />
* Collection jars – 4 wide mouth 8 oz (250mL) jelly jars with lids<br />
* Separating apparatus – a separatory funnel is easiest but siphoning and decanting will work fine.<br />
* Coffee filters<br />
* Rubber spatula<br />
* Very cold freezer – should freeze ice cream HARD<br />
* Non-sudsy ammonia – 10% solution, e.g. “janitorial strength” from Ace hardware, is optimal, but 5% “household strength” will do as well.<br />
* Eye-dropper<br />
<br />
==== Extraction Procedure ====<br />
# Pulverize the bark until it’s just fiber and pink/purple dust. It should be snapped into small pieces and run through a coffee grinder or blender at high speed. You may need pruning shears to cut the bark small enough to grind properly. It needs to be completely broken down. The dust created is very fine and astringent to the respiratory tract. Unless you dig big cakey purple boogers, wear a mask.<br />
# Mix 15mL water and 1g lye per gram of bark in the mixing jar. For example: 50g bark would require 750mL water and 50g lye. One level tablespoon of lye weighs about 15g, though this can vary considerably, better to use a scale. Note that lye is dangerous. <br> Blind you forever dangerous. Wear eye protection and have a bottle of vinegar handy as a neutralizer and for clean up. Add the lye to the water slowly stirring constantly until completely dissolved.<br />
# Add the powdered bark, cap and shake the jar and let the bark soak for awhile. An hour or so.<br />
# Now add 1mL naptha per gram of bark in the mixing jar and turn the jar end over end. Do not shake or splash or there will be a tendency for the solution to form an emulsion. Simply roll the naptha around in the bark solution. Do this for one minute and then let the jar stand until the naptha has pretty much separated to the top. <br> Repeat agitation three more times.<br />
# After the final agitation, separate the two layers. The naptha (top layer) goes in one of the collection jars, the rest stays in the mixing jar with the bark.<br />
# Put the collection jar in the freezer.<br />
# Repeat steps 4 to 6 three more times. Leave the last NP extraction in the jar for a day or two, agitating occasionally to pick up any strays.<br />
# Go to bed. You should have a collection of snow globes waiting for you in the morning.<br />
# Pour each jar of naptha out through a coffee filter. Save the naptha, which can be reused in the next batch or evaporated down producing a residue which can be further refined (see recrystallization below). A lot of paste will stick to the sides of the jar, so use a small rubber spatula to scrape the sides down onto the filter as well. Spread each filter out to dry. There will still be some residue in the jars, a bit of Salvia or MJ will scrub them out nicely.<br />
# Once the paste has dried THOROUGHLY (chop and stir it a couple of times), crush any lumps up and combine it all into one coffee filter. Now wash the lot by pouring freezer temperature NON-SUDSY ammonia over it and through the coffee filter. This will remove any remaining lye and some other impurities from the extract. If you can get 10% ammonia (“janitorial strength”) all the better. Most important, though, is NON-SUDSY: shake the bottle, if it suds, get a different bottle. It won’t take much, 100mL or so for a 200g batch, just make sure all the powder is thoroughly wetted, and stir it around while washing. A good bit of the mass will wash away (25&ndash;45%) but it’s nothing you want to be smoking anyway. (Note: if you intend to recrystallize, you can omit the ammonia wash).<br />
<br />
You should be left with somewhere in the vicinity of 0.5% of the weight of the root-bark in DMT powder. It is perfectly smokable at this point, but it can be refined further by recrystallization. Although recrystallization inevitably results in loss of goods, once you’ve had a hit of DMT that left absolutely NOTHING behind in the pipe, you won’t want to use anything else.<br />
<br />
==== Recrystallization ====<br />
The idea behind recrystallization is that solvents generally hold more solute when hot than cold and that the solubility of different solutes varies differently with temperature. If a solvent with a lot of different solutes dissolved in it cools down slowly, the different solutes will precipitate individually. Naptha will work for this but heptane is better. Heptane is available as Bestine – a rubber cement remover.<br />
<br />
Place a glass container with the DMT and a glass container of the recrystallization solvent together in a pan of hot water. Shot glasses in a saucepan work well for a gram or two. The fumes from whatever solvent you use will be extremely flammable, so don’t use a gas stove or light a bowl or be otherwise stupid. The DMT will already be melting if the water is hot enough. Add the hot solvent little by little (eye-dropper), agitating until all of the DMT is dissolved. Use as little solvent as possible. It should take only about 20&ndash;30mL of solvent per gram of powder. The solvent will be a clear yellow.<br />
<br />
Leave the pan of water with the DMT container to cool to room temperature. Remove the DMT container and cool in the refrigerator, then the freezer. You will end up with DMT crystals of varying purity atop a pellet of slag which still contains quite a bit of DMT but also lye if you skipped the ammonia wash. Filter the solvent and separate the crystals from the slag. The crystals can be refined in one or two more recrystallizations into pure clear DMT if desired. The slag can also be further refined or simply redissolved into the next batch. The solvent can be reused or evaporated down and the residue scraped and cleaned.<br />
<br />
And don’t forget to scrub those jars and utensils with your favorite smoking herb!<br />
<br />
== Reference ==<br />
<references/><br />
<br />
[[Category:Extraction Tek]]</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Community_portalDMT-Nexus Wiki:Community portal2009-02-18T18:06:38Z<p>I*i*b: Removed typo in Teks list that was messing up list formatting</p>
<hr />
<div>* [http://www.dmt-nexus.com Our Home page]<br />
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum Our forum]<br />
<br />
== DMT-Nexus Forum Threads in Regards to the Wiki ==<br />
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=29 Forum entry for discussion about the content of the DMT-Nexus Wiki]<br />
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3613 DMT-Nexus Wiki Renewal]<br />
<br />
== ToDo List ==<br />
Here is a ToDo list for work that has to be done at our Wiki, listed in order of priority.<br />
<br />
* Existing Articles:<br />
** [[The Nexian DMT Handbook]] -> write up of several subjects is needed<br />
** [[DMT Containing Plants]] -> Layout of all plants needs to be done (only top list is done)<br />
** [[Scientific Articles on Psychedelics]] -> All the articles need to be linked to their appropriate files.<br />
* New Articles:<br />
** All the Exttraction Teks (DMT ''and'' allies like [http://www.erowid.org/plants/mimosa/mimosa_chemistry1.shtml Nomans Tek])<br />
** [[Jungle Spice]] (Creating a Wiki out of [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1115 Entropymancers] excellent script.<br />
** [[Mimosa Hostilis]] (Cultivation section needed, [[Mimosa Hostilis#Refinery for the Purpose of Extraction|Refinery for the Purpose of Extraction]] needs additional steps and photos)<br />
** [[Freeze Precipitation]]<br />
** [[The Machine]]<br />
** [[Acid/Base]]<br />
** [[Straight To Base]]<br />
** [[DMT Potentiators]] (About potentiators and their interaction with DMT, e.g. Theobromine)<br />
** [[Pharmahuasca]] [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1363]<br />
** Teks:<br />
*** [[Noman's tek]] [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/doc/nomans_dmt_extraction_tek.pdf] (needs writeup)<br />
*** [[Marsofold's tek]] [http://dmt-nexus.com/webackup/tek1-marsfolds.htm] (needs writeup)<br />
*** [[Nontoxic limonene tek]] [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/Default.aspx?g=posts&t=1308] (needs writeup)<br />
*** [[The DMT Handbook]] [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=28289] (needs writeup)<br />
*** [[Spice Extraction-The FASA Approach]] [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Image:SPICE_EXTRACTION-The_FASA_approach.pdf] (needs writeup)<br />
* Other:<br />
** [[Special:Categories|Categorization]] of Articles<br />
** Templates for Materials List and Procedures and Botanics Info<br />
<br />
== To Be Reviewed ==<br />
* [[Lazyman's tek]] [http://www.entheogen.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9217] (Transcribed / marked-up - please check)<br />
* [[Lextek]] [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Image:Lextek_v1.pdf] (Transcribed / marked-up - needs images adding and a check over)<br />
* [[Vovin's tek]] [http://dmt-nexus.com/doc/Vovin%27s%20Unabridged%20Extraction%20guide.pdf] (Transcribed / marked-up - please</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Lazyman%27s_tekLazyman's tek2009-02-18T04:13:31Z<p>I*i*b: Cleaned up ranges - hyphens to en dashes</p>
<hr />
<div>{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Lazyman's Tek<ref>The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark - 10th October 2006[http://www.entheogen.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9217]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}<br />
==The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark by Vortex==<br />
__TOC__<br />
====Extraction Time====<br />
* 1 g in 2.5 hrs<br />
* 4 g in 7 hr<br />
* 7.5 g total @ 48 hrs<br />
====Equipment====<br />
* 5 L ceramic mixing bowl<br />
* Potato masher<br />
* 2000 mL measuring cup<br />
* Large flat glass baking pan<br />
* Fan<br />
* VM&P [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naptha Naphtha]; hardware store<br />
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_hydroxide NaOH (sodium hydroxide)]; online auction, often listed as Red Devil Lye<br />
=== Foreword ===<br />
This process is much simpler than all of the other DMT extraction teks for [[Mimosa Hostilis]] root bark. All you need to do is throw pieces of root bark into water which has had a measured amount of NaOH dissolved into it, wait an hour, add naphtha, stir for a few minutes and then pour the naphtha off into a collection container for evaporation. In essence that is all there is to this tek. No need to fuss with acidifying the root bark for a defat, no pH papers needed, no separatory funnel, nothing fancy yet this is a very effective technique with higher yields than any other method out there yet.<br />
<br />
Here is a more detailed explanation of the extraction method using a half kilo of root bark:<br />
<br />
Break 400&ndash;500 g of Mimosa Hostilis root bark, whether inner, outer or whole root into small enough pieces all of it will fit into a large ceramic or stainless steel mixing bowl with enough room left over to only fill the bowl half way to the top. Next, completely dissolve 200 g of NaOH into 2000&ndash;3000 mL of tap water and add to the root bark. <br />
<br />
Wait an hour for the lye/sodium hydroxide to soften up the root bark and then using a stainless steel potato masher stir and mash the base adjusted water into the pieces of root bark for 20&ndash;30 minutes and then pour in 250+ mL of naphtha into the bowl and mix for another 20&ndash;30 minutes. After you are done mixing the root bark let it sit for a few minutes so that any emulsion which might have stirred up into the solvent to settle out and then just pour the majority of the solvent off of the top of the basified aqueous mix into a large flat glass baking pan and evaporate with a fan blowing air across the top of the fluid to net 600&ndash;1000 mg of alkaloid in just a few hours. <br />
<br />
Is there any easier process to extract and isolate that much alkaloid in two to three hours from a pound of root bark? Although the initial yield will be much higher if extracting powdered root bark which takes much less time, whole or broken root bark can also provide high yields if you wait two or three days for the hard strips of bark to turn into a mush as the NaOH breaks it down further and further over time in the basified solution for a higher extraction yield. If waiting 24 hours and performing a single extraction the broken root bark the basified aqueous mix will still need to be extracted over again three or more times to get more of the DMT alkaloid out. That's it, a very simple process with yields others have reported to be much higher than the more often used A/B or acid to base teks. With dried Mimosa hostilis root bark the DMT is already in the form of a salt as is and there are so little plant fats many people simply do not bother with a defat cycle so going strait to base chemical works out very well with this material.<br />
==== Dry defat without acid ====<br />
Although Mimosa Hostilis root bark extracts fairly cleanly with minimal plant fats if you want to remove what little of it there is you can do so without adding an acid to the powder with water by just mixing the dry (no H<sub>2</sub>0) root bark powder into enough naphtha to allow all of the powder to be freely stirred up into the fluid for a few minutes and then filtered out of the naphtha which is then discarded. For an extreme defat heat the naphtha to near its boiling point and then stir the powder into it but be sure to pour off every drop of naphtha you can when done and throw that naphtha away, you should not use it for anything more in the process. Once you are done with the solvent defat the root bark powder is then dumped into the basified mix, as is and wet with naphtha if you like, or after drying. No harm adding root bark with a little naphtha still soaked into it from the defat, you are just going to end up pouring more naphtha in anyway. This "dry" defat without water works very well to remove what fats there are but is not really needed if extracting the plant material at room temperature. <br />
=== Step by step guide for the above using a pound of root bark ===<br />
If you want to use more or less root bark fraction or multiply out everything specified in this tech for smaller or larger amounts:<br />
# Break a pound or 454 g of dried of Mimosa Hostilis root bark into small pieces so that no piece is longer than three inches allowing them to all nicely fit into the bottom of a large 5 liter mixing bowl with lots of extra room left over and set to the side.<br />
# Prepare some basified water by fully dissolving 200 g (~13 measured tablespoons full) of NaOH powder into 2 L of tap water in a large measuring cup. <br />
# Add the basified water you just made to the bowl of broken root bark, stir for a few minutes and set aside for two or more hours (longer is better). <br />
# After soaking the root bark in high pH NaOH adjusted water (which is near a pH of 13.5 or more) for a couple of hours or more take a stainless steel potato masher and start mashing the broken root as best you can in the basified water for 20&ndash;30 minutes (longer is better). <br />
# After you are done mashing the root bark for a few minutes (which will still be fairly hard if only soaking 2 hours) then add 250&ndash;400 mL of clean room temperature naphtha (more makes separation from the soup easier) and stir the solvent into the aqueous mix for 20&ndash;30 minutes (longer is better). <br />
# After mixing the naphtha into the bowl pour as much of the solvent as you can easily get off of the top of the aqueous mix (naphtha floats on top in water as a distinct layer) into another container, leaving all of the dark soup behind which will be extracted over again later. Be sure not to allow any of the dark water or any of the bubbly emulsion which may have formed in the solvent to go out with it, you just want clear solvent now leaving everything else behind in the bowl. '''Note:''' If you have so much emulsion that the solvent is half filled with it wait a few minutes to an hour for it to settle out so you can get more of the solvent out. <br />
# Take all of the clear naphtha without any water or bubbles in it you have carefully separated from the basified mix of water and root bark and pour all of it into as large a flat glass container you can find for evaporation. Using a fan to blow air across the top of the fluid will help speed the rate of evaporation several fold faster. <br />
# After all of the naphtha has been evaporated you will find small white DMT bumps of extract stuck to the glass which can be scraped off with a flat blade. If you also see some shiny clear film on the glass it is best to wait until they completely solidify into a white deposit of DMT before scraping off together with the larger white clumps.<br />
=== Extraction notes ===<br />
When this extraction process was first tried with inner root bark 1.0 g of very white alkaloid without discernable fat impurities was extracted from beginning to end in just 2 and a half hours and that includes the time to fan evaporate the naphtha in a broad flat glass pan. Of course, the aqueous mix of root bark needs to be extracted over to get more of the alkaloid out of the mix but you can get plenty of DMT for unspecified uses in a short amount of time this way with a minimal amount of elbow grease and time.<br />
==== Soaking the root bark in basified water ====<br />
The broken inner root bark was soaked in 2 L of water with 75 g of NaOH dissolved into it for 1 hour before trying to mash the root bark in the basified water with a potato masher. The bark almost immediately became a dark black color and the water soon after became very dark brown colored which after 30 minutes of working the root bark with a masher started to appear more black than brown. <br />
==== The first extraction cycle ====<br />
After that 400 mL of naphtha was poured into the aqueous basified mix which was then stirred for 30 minutes with a potato masher so that the solvent would absorb the alkaloid released from the root bark by the high pH water. I like to use 300&ndash;400 mL of solvent per extraction to make separation from the basified portion of the mix easier. Then the naphtha was carefully and slowly poured off the top of the aqueous mix into another container for full evaporation to net a full gram of white alkaloid from 500 g of inner Mimosa Hostilis root bark without powdering it. <br />
==== Second extraction, NaOH doubled ====<br />
Right after this first extraction I wanted to see if increasing the amount of NaOH would increase the yield so 75 g more of NaOH was dissolved into ~750 mL of additional water and added to the mix with 400 mL more of naphtha poured into the bowl which was stirred again for close to 30 minutes and carefully separated from the mix for evaporation. With the amount of NaOH doubled the yield was found to be 50% greater at 1.5 g of alkaloid and because of this I recommend a minimum of 150 g of NaOH for 2 L of water when extracting 250&ndash;500 g of broken root bark and from 200&ndash;250 g of this base per 3+ L of water when extracting from 500&ndash;1000 g of broken root bark. <br />
==== Third extraction ====<br />
After the first two extractions the root bark was extracted a third time right way. 400 mL of fresh solvent was added to the mix again and stirred for 30 minutes before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation to yield about ~1.25 g on the third try that day, all in just a few hours. From there another 400 mL of naphtha (which is way more than needed on a solubility basis) was added to the brown to black appearing aqueous solution, covered to prevent further evaporation and put away to soak for close to 24 hours.<br />
==== Fourth extraction, long soak ====<br />
After another day the root bark had become far softer and almost slimy instead of stiff root bark as it had been the day before, the NaOH clearly doing its job at breaking the plant material down. The solvent from this forth long term extraction was evaporated to yield another 1.5 g of white extract for a total of close to 5 g of impure DMT from 500 g of inner root bark from the four extractions spread over 30+ hours from when the root bark was first placed in the bowl. <br />
==== Fifth extraction, another 24 hours and warming ====<br />
For this fifth extraction of the aqueous solution naphtha was added into the bowl and allowed to sit another 24 hours before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation. An hour before pouring it off the mix was warmed to 120&deg; F. and stirred for 20 minutes. Upon evaporation I found that the warming had made quite a difference, even after having extracted the mix four times prior I found that I was able to draw nearly 2 g of alkaloid into the solvent this time which was more than any of the previous single extractions, even greater than the first or second which you would naturally assume would be greater. Part of the reason for this might be that the root bark had soaked in the basified solution longer releasing more alkaloid to the water and also part due to both the basified mix and solvent being warm but in any case the draw was highest on the fifth extraction of the solution bringing the total net up to ~6.5 g with more left in the root bark to get out, all from 500 g of inner root bark. <br />
==== Sixth extraction, more heat caused problems ====<br />
A sixth and last extraction was performed to the mix by pouring 500 mL of fresh naphtha back into the bowl, stirring for a few minutes and then heating the aqueous solution under the naphtha to 130&deg; F. for an hour, stirring often. The temperature of the naphtha floating on top of the basified solution was measured to be 10&ndash;15&deg; cooler than the basified mix below it due to what I assume was being caused by cooling as the solvent evaporated off the top, even though a fairly slow rate of evaporation. After an hour at 130&deg; F. the warm naphtha was poured off for rapid fan evaporation in the large flat glass pan which yielded close to 2 g of yellowish extract (only becoming yellow after solidifying, clear until then) but this time upon cooling did not firm up very quickly and even after 8 hours was a very soft sticky extract which was obviously mostly DMT as indicated by both smell and crystalline formations but would not dry into a firm wax-like substance very quickly due to what I believe might be fatty impurities released from the root bark when heated too far in the base solution.<br />
==== Extraction advice; soak longer, extract more with less work ====<br />
Instead of all of the multiple extractions one after the other you could save yourself some work by just throwing 500 g of broken pieces of root bark into 2 L of water with 200 g of NaOH dissolved into the water and then pour in 750 mL of naphtha and set the whole container aside for three days, stirring just once a day for 20 minutes at a time. After three days the solvent from a single draw of the aqueous mix should contain far more alkaloid, maybe has high as two thirds the total amount I had pulled out in four separate draws done over 24 hours. Obviously, even after letting the mix sit for three days and a very successful first big pull of the alkaloid from the mix you will need to re-extract the aqueous solution with more naphtha at least three times to get the bulk of the alkaloid out but then you could probably still continue extracting the mix a half dozen times or more and still get more of the alkaloid out each time, although ever diminishing returns. You just have to decide how much you want to get out of the mix before considering it a waste of time or solvent to continue working at it. <br />
==== Notes on separating the naphtha from the aqueous mix ====<br />
When separating the naphtha from the NaOH/H<sub>2</sub>O/root you may need to first pour the solvent off the top of the mix into a large measuring cup allowing some of the dark basified water to come over with it so that you can more easily pour the solvent off using the small spout on the measuring cup because when pouring the solvent out of a bowl it is difficult to control what pours out. <br />
==== To warm or not to warm the basified mix of root bark ====<br />
Although the majority of the alkaloid had been extracted at room temperature for this extraction I found that the amount of alkaloid extracted is greater when the mix is warmed up to 100&deg; F. Whether it is a good idea to warm highly basified DMT containing plant material I do not know. Although the yield was greater in a shorter amount of time on that last draw at over 130&deg; F. the extract was different, although clear before complete evaporation of the naphtha it turned a yellow color and remained as a syrup-like liquid for two days, although which took days to begin to crystalize yet it appears to be fairly high percentage DMT by both smell and appearance when it does crystalize. Perhaps heating the mix allows plant fats to come over which did not do so before? Perhaps Not being any kind of a chemist I do not know the answer to this but I can accurately report on what I observed which is all this tech really is, a report.<br />
<br />
When soaking the root bark in the warmed solution be sure to periodically check the temperature to make sure the solution does not go over 120&deg; F. or you might get a lot of the gummy impurities in the extract which showed up when I did so. Even though I am recommending 100&deg; F. and suggesting an upper limit of 120&deg; F. even 100&deg; F might be too warm if over a long enough period of time causing some of the gummy substance I had observed coming over into the solvent at ~130&deg;+ to be extracted. To assure this substance does not extract along with the alkaloid it might be better to just leave the solution at normal room temperatures while soaking the bark in the aqueous mix for 72+ hours and only raise the solution to 120&deg; F. for an hour prior to pouring the solvent off for evaporation. <br />
<br />
If you decide to heat your basified mix with naphtha in it for hours to days as the root bark is broken down by the NaOH I would cover the container with kitchen plastic wrap or something to slow the evaporation of the naphtha. After 48 hours the root bark is broken down pretty good by the lye to where it becomes fairly soft and extracts well but if you are using powdered root bark I do not believe it would be necessary to soak the bark for that long a period of time at all, probably just an hour or more should be enough to chemically break the powder itself down further for a higher extraction yield. <br />
<br />
There is a report that DMT will break down in solution over time, more easily if at high pH. While I have not verified this report I did get a runny extra<br />
== Reference ==<br />
<references/><br />
[[Category:Extraction Tek]]</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/LextekLextek2009-02-18T04:07:42Z<p>I*i*b: Cleaned up ranges - hyphens to en dashes</p>
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<div>{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Lextek<ref>Lex's DMT Extraction v1.0 Oct. -2007[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Image:Lextek_v1.pdf]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}<br />
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=== Section 1: Extraction of DMT ===<br />
<br />
==== Materials needed ====<br />
(Quantities can be scaled accordingly to work with smaller or larger amounts of material)<br />
* 2 kilograms of DMT containing plant material (Acacia Obtusifolia bark will be used here)<br />
* 250 grams of Sodium Hydroxide (Caustic Soda / Lye) – Bunnings / Safeway<br />
* 1 Litre of white vinegar (dilute Acetic Acid) – Safeway<br />
* 2 Litres of Shellite (non-polar solvent) – Bunnings<br />
* 12 Litres of distilled water (polar solvent) – Bunnings<br />
<br />
The idea behind the extraction is that DMT is in the plant; we can get it out.<br />
<br />
At our advantage, the state of the DMT can be changed between a salt or freebase by using acids or bases respectively, ie: if you have a pH 4 (acidic) solution containing DMT, the DMT will be converted to a salt (using acetic acid: DMT Acetate, using tartaric acid: DMT Tartrate, etc..) If you now basify this to pH 14, all the DMT salt will be converted to its freebase form.<br />
<br />
As we change the state of the DMT, we also change its solubility properties:<br />
* DMT salts are soluble in polar solvents (water, alcohol) but insoluble in non-polar solvents.<br />
* DMT freebase is soluble in non-polar solvents (Shellite) but is insoluble in polar solvents.<br />
<br />
Understanding these basic points allows an extraction technique to be devised:<br />
# '''Prepare Your Bark''' <br> Chop up and grind your bark to maximise its exposed surface area.<br />
# '''Acid Cook''' <br> Simmer the bark in pH 4 acidic water (using vinegar). Keep the liquid and discard the bark. <br> The low pH ensures all DMT is in its salt form, which will dissolve into the water.<br />
# '''Basify''' <br> Basify the liquid to pH 14 with Sodium Hydroxide (Caustic Soda / Lye). <br> The high pH ensures all DMT is in its freebase form, which is soluble in Shellite.<br />
# '''Initial Shellite Extraction''' Add an amount of Shellite to the above solution, shake, separate, and repeat. <br> The freebase DMT will dissolve into the Shellite, along with some unwanted plant gunk.<br />
# '''Defat Step 1: Acid Wash''' <br> Acidify water to pH 4 using acetic acid (vinegar) and add to the combined Shellite extractions. <br> This will convert the DMT freebase to the water-soluble salt, DMT Acetate. <br> The DMT Acetate will move from the Shellite to the water leaving behind the plant gunk.<br />
# '''Defat Step 2: Basify''' <br> To the water + DMT Acetate solution, add an amount of Sodium Hydroxide. <br> This will again convert the DMT to its freebase form, which is soluble in Shellite.<br />
# '''Final Shellite Extraction''' <br> Add an amount of Shellite to the above solution, shake, separate, and repeat. <br> The freebase DMT will dissolve into the Shellite. At this point no plant gunk remains.<br />
# '''Freeze Precipitation''' <br> The last step is to get your DMT freebase out of the Shellite. <br> At freezing temperatures, the DMT becomes insoluble in Shellite and will precipitate out.<br />
=== Part 1: Prepare Your Bark ===<br />
Preparing the bark is a crucial step to ensure your yield is as high as possible. The aim is to maximise the surface area of the bark so the majority of the DMT is exposed and not protected inside thick layers of wood.<br />
<br />
I have tried many methods and I find this one to work at least. Some methods are better than others; its personal choice so be innovative and find the one that works best for you.<br />
# Weight an amount of bark, for this extraction 2 kilos will be used.<br />
# Using secateurs chop the bark into pieces no larger than pictured here - the smaller the better.<br />
# Fill your grinder to about a third of its capacity with bark and grind.<br />
# Shaking it around while grinding helps to ensure that most of the bark comes into contact with the blades.<br />
# Do this until all your bark is powdered (or as close as possible to).<br />
# Be sure to give your grinder a rest between loads if you can feel it heating up too much.<br />
<br />
=== Part 2: Acid Cook ===<br />
The acid cook will convert the DMT into its water-soluble acetate salt (acetate as we are using vinegar – acetic acid). The DMT Acetate will migrate away from the bark, into the acidic water.<br />
<br />
Most acids can be used without a problem. We will use white vinegar (which contains roughly 5% acetic acid) diluted in distilled water. It is easy to get and fairly safe to work with.<br />
# Acidify an excess amount of distilled water by mixing one part vinegar to three parts water. You are aiming for a '''pH of 4'''. <br> Use a digital pH meter or litmus paper to determine the pH of the solution.<br />
# Place all the bark into a large saucepan and fill with the acidified water, ensuring all the bark is well covered. Four litres per cook was used here. <br> Bring the mixture to a light simmer and proceed to cook for a further hour. <br> Once complete, pour off and save the liquid. Perform this step a further two times.<br />
# Combine all liquids and filter out the fine bark particles through a muslin cloth. <br />
# Reduce all liquids down to a few liters on low heat. This may take several hours. <br> For your own sake '''BE SURE''' that your kitchen has adequate ventilation. Humidity can build up quicker than you think and before you know it your ceiling and walls may be dripping in oily red acidic liquid !!<br />
<br />
=== Part 3: Basify ===<br />
Basifying the acidic solution to pH 14 with Sodium Hydroxide will convert the DMT Acetate to the DMT base.<br />
<br />
The DMT base is insoluble in polar solvents (water) but soluble in non-polar solvents (Shellite).<br />
<br />
Performing this conversion is preparation for Part 4: Initial Shellite Extraction <br />
# Let the reduced acidic solution cool to lukewarm and pour into a HDPE jug like the one the water came in.<br />
# Weigh 100 grams of Sodium Hydroxide and '''SLOWLY''' add 10 grams at a time, shaking well each time. This will raise the '''pH to 14'''. <br> The solution will turn black. <br> Use a digital pH meter or litmus paper to determine the pH of the solution. <br> '''NOTE:''' Adding base to water is an exothermic reaction (releases heat) and if added too quickly to already hot water, spitting can occur. <br> You DO NOT want this stuff on you !! <br> Once the solution is basified and stable, swirl it around to homogenise the mixture.<br />
<br />
=== Part 4: Initial Shellite Extraction ===<br />
Shellite is a non-polar solvent and can be used to remove non-polar substances (DMT base) from polar solutions (water).<br />
<br />
'''Note:''' This step must be done while the solution is HOT to maximise the solubility of the DMT base into the Shellite. Without heat, yields will be greatly reduced.<br />
# Pour 250mL of Shellite into the basified solution. Put the lid on and shake. <br> '''NOTE!!''' The first few shakes will cause a rapid release of vapors which must be released. Watch the pressure carefully and release frequently !! <br> '''Adequate ventilation is a must at this point'''<br />
# Let the mixture sit for a few minutes. Looking closely you will see two layers. <br> The top layer is the Shellite layer which now contains the DMT base and some fats and oils from the bark.<br />
# Using a siphon device or some other method, separate top non-polar layer from the bottom polar layer. <br> Experiment with different ways to do this (turkey baster, ghetto separatory funnel, etc..) and find one that works for you. <br> I find siphoning the bottom layer to another jug allows for good separation.<br />
# Repeat steps 2 and 3 another two times and combine the Shellite pulls. For the third pull use 500mL of Shellite. <br> Remember to ensure that both the solution and Shellite are HOT to aid in the extraction. Use a hot water bath for this. <br> '''DO NOT''' use an open-flame heat source !!! <br> For the third pull, add another 50 grams of Sodium Hydroxide to the solution before extracting and shake real well, this will heat the solution significantly.<br />
<br />
=== Part 5: Defat Step 1: Acid Wash ===<br />
As the Shellite solution pictured above contains both DMT base and plant gunk, we are now going to remove the DMT from the solution and leave the plant gunk behind.<br />
<br />
This will be done by washing the Shellite + DMT + plant gunk solution with acidic water, resulting in the DMT base once again becoming the water-soluble salt, DMT Acetate and migrating away from the Shellite, however leaving behind the plant gunk. <br />
# Again, acidify an excess amount of distilled water by mixing one part vinegar to three parts water. You are aiming for a '''pH of 4'''. <br> Use a digital pH meter or litmus paper to determine the pH of the solution. <br />
# Add approximately 250mL of acidic water to the Shellite solution. <br> The mixture does not need to be hot; in fact it is better if all liquids at this step are kept at room temperature as otherwise plant gunk will come back across. <br />
# Using the same siphoning method in Part 4 - Step 3, siphon off the top non-polar layer from the bottom polar layer, this time keeping the polar layer (acidic water).<br />
<br />
=== Part 5: Defat Step 1: Acid Wash ===<br />
As the Shellite solution pictured above contains both DMT base and plant gunk, we are now going to remove the DMT from the solution and leave the plant gunk behind.<br />
<br />
This will be done by washing the Shellite + DMT + plant gunk solution with acidic water, resulting in the DMT base once again becoming the water-soluble salt, DMT Acetate and migrating away from the Shellite, however leaving behind the plant gunk. <br />
# Again, acidify an excess amount of distilled water by mixing one part vinegar to three parts water. You are aiming for a '''pH of 4'''. <br> Use a digital pH meter or litmus paper to determine the pH of the solution. <br />
# Add approximately 250mL of acidic water to the Shellite solution. The mixture does not need to be hot; in fact it is better if all liquids at this step are kept at room temperature as otherwise plant gunk will come back across. <br />
# Using the same siphoning method in Part 4 - Step 3, siphon off the top non-polar layer from the bottom polar layer, this time keeping the polar layer (acidic water).<br />
# Repeat step 2 three more times and combine the three polar layers. <br>For the third time use 500mL.<br />
<br />
=== Part 6: Defat Step 2: Basify ===<br />
Once again, in preparation to extract the DMT from the acidic water solution, we are going to basify the liquid.<br />
<br />
This will again convert the water-soluble DMT Acetate salt into the water-insoluble DMT base. Note that no plant gunk exists in the vinegar solution; the solution at this point consists only of acidic water + DMT Acetate.<br />
<br />
Slowly add 60 grams of Sodium Hydroxide to the solution to raise the '''pH to 14'''.<br />
<br />
Use a digital pH meter or litmus paper to determine the pH of the solution.<br />
<br />
Note that the solution has been placed into a new vessel.<br />
<br />
=== Part 7: Final Shellite Extraction ===<br />
We will now extract the DMT base from the basified solution with Shellite.<br />
<br />
As previously explained, adding Sodium Hydroxide (base) to the acidic water + DMT Acetate solution converted the DMT Acetate salt to the DMT Base which is insoluble in our polar solvent (water) and soluble in our non-polar solvent (Shellite). <br />
# Measure 250mL of Shellite and add it to the acidic water. <br> Heat the mixture in a hot water bath and shake.<br />
# Allow the layers to separate and siphon and separate, keeping the non-polar layer this time. <br> Repeat step 1 two more times and combine the Shellite extractions. <br> Again, for the third pull add another 30 grams of Sodium Hydroxide (to reheat) and extract with 500mL of Shellite.<br />
<br />
=== Part 8: Freeze Precipitation ===<br />
Our solution is now clean enough to proceed to removing the DMT Base from the Shellite.<br />
<br />
# Pour the solution into a wide-mouthed jar that you can fit your hand into and with the use of a fan, evaporate approximately half of the solution. <br> You may notice that your solution has turned milky and an oily film has formed on the glass where the solvent has been evaporated. This is actually a bunch un-crystallised DMT. If you want to get your efficiency right up then heat up the solution with a hot water bath and swirl it around plenty to re- dissolve all this DMT.<br />
# Place the solution in the freezer and resist all temptation to disturb it for at least 48 hours.<br />
# After 48 hours or more, pour off the Shellite being careful not to lose any DMT floaters with it. You should see something like this! <br> Evaporate all excess Shellite with either a fan or just leave it alone until no scent of Shellite remains. <br> For your own curiosity you can let the Shellite you poured off evaporate slowly over a week or so and see if any DMT remained in the Shellite.<br />
# Once the DMT is dry you can scrape it out and admire the end result of your hard work.<br />
<br />
Pictured is 5.9 grams of some damn clean spice <br> I attribute the ultra-high purity of the end result to the post-defat process used in this tech. <br> This yields a fairly low 0.3% (0.4&ndash;0.5% expected) however the tree used was very young (about 5 years old) which could be a major factor.<br />
<br />
== Reference ==<br />
<references/><br />
<br />
[[Category:Extraction Tek]]</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Lazyman%27s_tekLazyman's tek2009-02-18T03:46:11Z<p>I*i*b: Edits to unit abbreviations</p>
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<div>{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Lazyman's Tek<ref>The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark - 10th October 2006[http://www.entheogen.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9217]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}<br />
==The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark by Vortex==<br />
__TOC__<br />
====Extraction Time====<br />
* 1 g in 2.5 hrs<br />
* 4 g in 7 hr<br />
* 7.5 g total @ 48 hrs<br />
====Equipment====<br />
* 5 L ceramic mixing bowl<br />
* Potato masher<br />
* 2000 mL measuring cup<br />
* Large flat glass baking pan<br />
* Fan<br />
* VM&P [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naptha Naphtha]; hardware store<br />
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_hydroxide NaOH (sodium hydroxide)]; online auction, often listed as Red Devil Lye<br />
=== Foreword ===<br />
This process is much simpler than all of the other DMT extraction teks for [[Mimosa Hostilis]] root bark. All you need to do is throw pieces of root bark into water which has had a measured amount of NaOH dissolved into it, wait an hour, add naphtha, stir for a few minutes and then pour the naphtha off into a collection container for evaporation. In essence that is all there is to this tek. No need to fuss with acidifying the root bark for a defat, no pH papers needed, no separatory funnel, nothing fancy yet this is a very effective technique with higher yields than any other method out there yet.<br />
<br />
Here is a more detailed explanation of the extraction method using a half kilo of root bark:<br />
<br />
Break 400-500 g of Mimosa Hostilis root bark, whether inner, outer or whole root into small enough pieces all of it will fit into a large ceramic or stainless steel mixing bowl with enough room left over to only fill the bowl half way to the top. Next, completely dissolve 200 g of NaOH into 2000-3000 mL of tap water and add to the root bark. <br />
<br />
Wait an hour for the lye/sodium hydroxide to soften up the root bark and then using a stainless steel potato masher stir and mash the base adjusted water into the pieces of root bark for 20-30 minutes and then pour in 250+ mL of naphtha into the bowl and mix for another 20-30 minutes. After you are done mixing the root bark let it sit for a few minutes so that any emulsion which might have stirred up into the solvent to settle out and then just pour the majority of the solvent off of the top of the basified aqueous mix into a large flat glass baking pan and evaporate with a fan blowing air across the top of the fluid to net 600-1000 mg of alkaloid in just a few hours. <br />
<br />
Is there any easier process to extract and isolate that much alkaloid in two to three hours from a pound of root bark? Although the initial yield will be much higher if extracting powdered root bark which takes much less time, whole or broken root bark can also provide high yields if you wait two or three days for the hard strips of bark to turn into a mush as the NaOH breaks it down further and further over time in the basified solution for a higher extraction yield. If waiting 24 hours and performing a single extraction the broken root bark the basified aqueous mix will still need to be extracted over again three or more times to get more of the DMT alkaloid out. That's it, a very simple process with yields others have reported to be much higher than the more often used A/B or acid to base teks. With dried Mimosa hostilis root bark the DMT is already in the form of a salt as is and there are so little plant fats many people simply do not bother with a defat cycle so going strait to base chemical works out very well with this material.<br />
==== Dry defat without acid ====<br />
Although Mimosa Hostilis root bark extracts fairly cleanly with minimal plant fats if you want to remove what little of it there is you can do so without adding an acid to the powder with water by just mixing the dry (no H<sub>2</sub>0) root bark powder into enough naphtha to allow all of the powder to be freely stirred up into the fluid for a few minutes and then filtered out of the naphtha which is then discarded. For an extreme defat heat the naphtha to near its boiling point and then stir the powder into it but be sure to pour off every drop of naphtha you can when done and throw that naphtha away, you should not use it for anything more in the process. Once you are done with the solvent defat the root bark powder is then dumped into the basified mix, as is and wet with naphtha if you like, or after drying. No harm adding root bark with a little naphtha still soaked into it from the defat, you are just going to end up pouring more naphtha in anyway. This "dry" defat without water works very well to remove what fats there are but is not really needed if extracting the plant material at room temperature. <br />
=== Step by step guide for the above using a pound of root bark ===<br />
If you want to use more or less root bark fraction or multiply out everything specified in this tech for smaller or larger amounts:<br />
# Break a pound or 454 g of dried of Mimosa Hostilis root bark into small pieces so that no piece is longer than three inches allowing them to all nicely fit into the bottom of a large 5 liter mixing bowl with lots of extra room left over and set to the side.<br />
# Prepare some basified water by fully dissolving 200 g (~13 measured tablespoons full) of NaOH powder into 2 L of tap water in a large measuring cup. <br />
# Add the basified water you just made to the bowl of broken root bark, stir for a few minutes and set aside for two or more hours (longer is better). <br />
# After soaking the root bark in high pH NaOH adjusted water (which is near a pH of 13.5 or more) for a couple of hours or more take a stainless steel potato masher and start mashing the broken root as best you can in the basified water for 20-30 minutes (longer is better). <br />
# After you are done mashing the root bark for a few minutes (which will still be fairly hard if only soaking 2 hours) then add 250-400 mL of clean room temperature naphtha (more makes separation from the soup easier) and stir the solvent into the aqueous mix for 20-30 minutes (longer is better). <br />
# After mixing the naphtha into the bowl pour as much of the solvent as you can easily get off of the top of the aqueous mix (naphtha floats on top in water as a distinct layer) into another container, leaving all of the dark soup behind which will be extracted over again later. Be sure not to allow any of the dark water or any of the bubbly emulsion which may have formed in the solvent to go out with it, you just want clear solvent now leaving everything else behind in the bowl. '''Note:''' If you have so much emulsion that the solvent is half filled with it wait a few minutes to an hour for it to settle out so you can get more of the solvent out. <br />
# Take all of the clear naphtha without any water or bubbles in it you have carefully separated from the basified mix of water and root bark and pour all of it into as large a flat glass container you can find for evaporation. Using a fan to blow air across the top of the fluid will help speed the rate of evaporation several fold faster. <br />
# After all of the naphtha has been evaporated you will find small white DMT bumps of extract stuck to the glass which can be scraped off with a flat blade. If you also see some shiny clear film on the glass it is best to wait until they completely solidify into a white deposit of DMT before scraping off together with the larger white clumps.<br />
=== Extraction notes ===<br />
When this extraction process was first tried with inner root bark 1.0 g of very white alkaloid without discernable fat impurities was extracted from beginning to end in just 2 and a half hours and that includes the time to fan evaporate the naphtha in a broad flat glass pan. Of course, the aqueous mix of root bark needs to be extracted over to get more of the alkaloid out of the mix but you can get plenty of DMT for unspecified uses in a short amount of time this way with a minimal amount of elbow grease and time.<br />
==== Soaking the root bark in basified water ====<br />
The broken inner root bark was soaked in 2 L of water with 75 g of NaOH dissolved into it for 1 hour before trying to mash the root bark in the basified water with a potato masher. The bark almost immediately became a dark black color and the water soon after became very dark brown colored which after 30 minutes of working the root bark with a masher started to appear more black than brown. <br />
==== The first extraction cycle ====<br />
After that 400 mL of naphtha was poured into the aqueous basified mix which was then stirred for 30 minutes with a potato masher so that the solvent would absorb the alkaloid released from the root bark by the high pH water. I like to use 300-400 mL of solvent per extraction to make separation from the basified portion of the mix easier. Then the naphtha was carefully and slowly poured off the top of the aqueous mix into another container for full evaporation to net a full gram of white alkaloid from 500 g of inner Mimosa Hostilis root bark without powdering it. <br />
==== Second extraction, NaOH doubled ====<br />
Right after this first extraction I wanted to see if increasing the amount of NaOH would increase the yield so 75 g more of NaOH was dissolved into ~750 mL of additional water and added to the mix with 400 mL more of naphtha poured into the bowl which was stirred again for close to 30 minutes and carefully separated from the mix for evaporation. With the amount of NaOH doubled the yield was found to be 50% greater at 1.5 g of alkaloid and because of this I recommend a minimum of 150 g of NaOH for 2 ltr of water when extracting 250-500 g of broken root bark and from 200-250 g of this base per 3+ ltr of water when extracting from 500-1000 g of broken root bark. <br />
==== Third extraction ====<br />
After the first two extractions the root bark was extracted a third time right way. 400 mL of fresh solvent was added to the mix again and stirred for 30 minutes before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation to yield about ~1.25 g on the third try that day, all in just a few hours. From there another 400 mL of naphtha (which is way more than needed on a solubility basis) was added to the brown to black appearing aqueous solution, covered to prevent further evaporation and put away to soak for close to 24 hours.<br />
==== Fourth extraction, long soak ====<br />
After another day the root bark had become far softer and almost slimy instead of stiff root bark as it had been the day before, the NaOH clearly doing its job at breaking the plant material down. The solvent from this forth long term extraction was evaporated to yield another 1.5 g of white extract for a total of close to 5 grams of impure DMT from 500 g of inner root bark from the four extractions spread over 30+ hours from when the root bark was first placed in the bowl. <br />
==== Fifth extraction, another 24 hours and warming ====<br />
For this fifth extraction of the aqueous solution naphtha was added into the bowl and allowed to sit another 24 hours before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation. An hour before pouring it off the mix was warmed to 120&deg; F. and stirred for 20 minutes. Upon evaporation I found that the warming had made quite a difference, even after having extracted the mix four times prior I found that I was able to draw nearly 2 g of alkaloid into the solvent this time which was more than any of the previous single extractions, even greater than the first or second which you would naturally assume would be greater. Part of the reason for this might be that the root bark had soaked in the basified solution longer releasing more alkaloid to the water and also part due to both the basified mix and solvent being warm but in any case the draw was highest on the fifth extraction of the solution bringing the total net up to ~6.5 g with more left in the root bark to get out, all from 500 g of inner root bark. <br />
==== Sixth extraction, more heat caused problems ====<br />
A sixth and last extraction was performed to the mix by pouring 500 mL of fresh naphtha back into the bowl, stirring for a few minutes and then heating the aqueous solution under the naphtha to 130&deg; F. for an hour, stirring often. The temperature of the naphtha floating on top of the basified solution was measured to be 10-15&deg; cooler than the basified mix below it due to what I assume was being caused by cooling as the solvent evaporated off the top, even though a fairly slow rate of evaporation. After an hour at 130&deg; F. the warm naphtha was poured off for rapid fan evaporation in the large flat glass pan which yielded close to 2 g of yellowish extract (only becoming yellow after solidifying, clear until then) but this time upon cooling did not firm up very quickly and even after 8 hours was a very soft sticky extract which was obviously mostly DMT as indicated by both smell and crystalline formations but would not dry into a firm wax-like substance very quickly due to what I believe might be fatty impurities released from the root bark when heated too far in the base solution.<br />
==== Extraction advice; soak longer, extract more with less work ====<br />
Instead of all of the multiple extractions one after the other you could save yourself some work by just throwing 500 g of broken pieces of root bark into 2 L of water with 200 g of NaOH dissolved into the water and then pour in 750 mL of naphtha and set the whole container aside for three days, stirring just once a day for 20 minutes at a time. After three days the solvent from a single draw of the aqueous mix should contain far more alkaloid, maybe has high as two thirds the total amount I had pulled out in four separate draws done over 24 hours. Obviously, even after letting the mix sit for three days and a very successful first big pull of the alkaloid from the mix you will need to re-extract the aqueous solution with more naphtha at least three times to get the bulk of the alkaloid out but then you could probably still continue extracting the mix a half dozen times or more and still get more of the alkaloid out each time, although ever diminishing returns. You just have to decide how much you want to get out of the mix before considering it a waste of time or solvent to continue working at it. <br />
==== Notes on separating the naphtha from the aqueous mix ====<br />
When separating the naphtha from the NaOH/H<sub>2</sub>O/root you may need to first pour the solvent off the top of the mix into a large measuring cup allowing some of the dark basified water to come over with it so that you can more easily pour the solvent off using the small spout on the measuring cup because when pouring the solvent out of a bowl it is difficult to control what pours out. <br />
==== To warm or not to warm the basified mix of root bark ====<br />
Although the majority of the alkaloid had been extracted at room temperature for this extraction I found that the amount of alkaloid extracted is greater when the mix is warmed up to 100&deg; F. Whether it is a good idea to warm highly basified DMT containing plant material I do not know. Although the yield was greater in a shorter amount of time on that last draw at over 130&deg; F. the extract was different, although clear before complete evaporation of the naphtha it turned a yellow color and remained as a syrup-like liquid for two days, although which took days to begin to crystalize yet it appears to be fairly high percentage DMT by both smell and appearance when it does crystalize. Perhaps heating the mix allows plant fats to come over which did not do so before? Perhaps Not being any kind of a chemist I do not know the answer to this but I can accurately report on what I observed which is all this tech really is, a report.<br />
<br />
When soaking the root bark in the warmed solution be sure to periodically check the temperature to make sure the solution does not go over 120&deg; F. or you might get a lot of the gummy impurities in the extract which showed up when I did so. Even though I am recommending 100&deg; F. and suggesting an upper limit of 120&deg; F. even 100&deg; F might be too warm if over a long enough period of time causing some of the gummy substance I had observed coming over into the solvent at ~130&deg;+ to be extracted. To assure this substance does not extract along with the alkaloid it might be better to just leave the solution at normal room temperatures while soaking the bark in the aqueous mix for 72+ hours and only raise the solution to 120&deg; F. for an hour prior to pouring the solvent off for evaporation. <br />
<br />
If you decide to heat your basified mix with naphtha in it for hours to days as the root bark is broken down by the NaOH I would cover the container with kitchen plastic wrap or something to slow the evaporation of the naphtha. After 48 hours the root bark is broken down pretty good by the lye to where it becomes fairly soft and extracts well but if you are using powdered root bark I do not believe it would be necessary to soak the bark for that long a period of time at all, probably just an hour or more should be enough to chemically break the powder itself down further for a higher extraction yield. <br />
<br />
There is a report that DMT will break down in solution over time, more easily if at high pH. While I have not verified this report I did get a runny extra<br />
== Reference ==<br />
<references/><br />
[[Category:Extraction Tek]]</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Community_portalDMT-Nexus Wiki:Community portal2009-02-18T03:33:01Z<p>I*i*b: </p>
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* [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum Our forum]<br />
<br />
== DMT-Nexus Forum Threads in Regards to the Wiki ==<br />
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3613 DMT-Nexus WiKi]<br />
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3613 DMT-Nexus Wiki Renewal]<br />
<br />
== ToDo List ==<br />
Here is a ToDo list for work that has to be done at our Wiki, listed in order of priority.<br />
<br />
* Existing Articles:<br />
** [[The Nexian DMT Handbook]] -> write up of several subjects is needed<br />
** [[DMT Containing Plants]] -> Layout of all plants needs to be done (only top list is done)<br />
** [[Scientific Articles on Psychedelics]] -> All the articles need to be linked to their appropriate files.<br />
* New Articles:<br />
** All the Exttraction Teks (DMT ''and'' allies like [http://www.erowid.org/plants/mimosa/mimosa_chemistry1.shtml Nomans Tek])<br />
** [[Jungle Spice]] (Creating a Wiki out of [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1115 Entropymancers] excellent script.<br />
** [[Mimosa Hostilis]] (Cultivation section needed, [[Mimosa Hostilis#Refinery for the Purpose of Extraction|Refinery for the Purpose of Extraction]] needs additional steps and photos)<br />
** [[Freeze Precipitation]]<br />
** [[The Machine]]<br />
** [[Acid/Base]]<br />
** [[Straight To Base]]<br />
** [[DMT Potentiators]] (About potentiators and their interaction with DMT, e.g. Theobromine)<br />
** [[Pharmahuasca]] [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1363]<br />
** Teks:<br />
*** [[Noman's tek]] [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/doc/nomans_dmt_extraction_tek.pdf] (needs writeup)<br />
*** [[Lazyman's tek]] [http://www.entheogen.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9217] (Transcribed / marked-up - please check)<br />
*** [[Marsofold's tek]] [http://dmt-nexus.com/webackup/tek1-marsfolds.htm] (needs writeup)<br />
*** [[Vovin's tek]] [http://dmt-nexus.com/doc/Vovin%27s%20Unabridged%20Extraction%20guide.pdf] (needs markup)<br />
*** [[Nontoxic limonene tek]] [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/Default.aspx?g=posts&t=1308] (needs writeup)<br />
*** [[The DMT Handbook]] [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=28289]<br />
*** [[Lextek]] [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Image:Lextek_v1.pdf] (Transcribed / marked-up - needs images adding and a check over)<br />
*** [[Spice Extraction-The FASA Approach]] [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Image:SPICE_EXTRACTION-The_FASA_approach.pdf] (needs writeup)<br />
* Other:<br />
** [[Special:Categories|Categorization]] of Articles<br />
** Templates for Materials List and Procedures and Botanics Info</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/LextekLextek2009-02-18T03:22:28Z<p>I*i*b: Small spelling corrections</p>
<hr />
<div>{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Lextek<ref>Lex's DMT Extraction v1.0 Oct. -2007[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Image:Lextek_v1.pdf]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}<br />
<br />
=== Section 1: Extraction of DMT ===<br />
<br />
==== Materials needed ====<br />
(Quantities can be scaled accordingly to work with smaller or larger amounts of material)<br />
* 2 kilograms of DMT containing plant material (Acacia Obtusifolia bark will be used here)<br />
* 250 grams of Sodium Hydroxide (Caustic Soda / Lye) – Bunnings / Safeway<br />
* 1 Litre of white vinegar (dilute Acetic Acid) – Safeway<br />
* 2 Litres of Shellite (non-polar solvent) – Bunnings<br />
* 12 Litres of distilled water (polar solvent) – Bunnings<br />
<br />
The idea behind the extraction is that DMT is in the plant; we can get it out.<br />
<br />
At our advantage, the state of the DMT can be changed between a salt or freebase by using acids or bases respectively, ie: if you have a pH 4 (acidic) solution containing DMT, the DMT will be converted to a salt (using acetic acid: DMT Acetate, using tartaric acid: DMT Tartrate, etc..) If you now basify this to pH 14, all the DMT salt will be converted to its freebase form.<br />
<br />
As we change the state of the DMT, we also change its solubility properties:<br />
* DMT salts are soluble in polar solvents (water, alcohol) but insoluble in non-polar solvents.<br />
* DMT freebase is soluble in non-polar solvents (Shellite) but is insoluble in polar solvents.<br />
<br />
Understanding these basic points allows an extraction technique to be devised:<br />
# '''Prepare Your Bark''' <br> Chop up and grind your bark to maximise its exposed surface area.<br />
# '''Acid Cook''' <br> Simmer the bark in pH 4 acidic water (using vinegar). Keep the liquid and discard the bark. <br> The low pH ensures all DMT is in its salt form, which will dissolve into the water.<br />
# '''Basify''' <br> Basify the liquid to pH 14 with Sodium Hydroxide (Caustic Soda / Lye). <br> The high pH ensures all DMT is in its freebase form, which is soluble in Shellite.<br />
# '''Initial Shellite Extraction''' Add an amount of Shellite to the above solution, shake, separate, and repeat. <br> The freebase DMT will dissolve into the Shellite, along with some unwanted plant gunk.<br />
# '''Defat Step 1: Acid Wash''' <br> Acidify water to pH 4 using acetic acid (vinegar) and add to the combined Shellite extractions. <br> This will convert the DMT freebase to the water-soluble salt, DMT Acetate. <br> The DMT Acetate will move from the Shellite to the water leaving behind the plant gunk.<br />
# '''Defat Step 2: Basify''' <br> To the water + DMT Acetate solution, add an amount of Sodium Hydroxide. <br> This will again convert the DMT to its freebase form, which is soluble in Shellite.<br />
# '''Final Shellite Extraction''' <br> Add an amount of Shellite to the above solution, shake, separate, and repeat. <br> The freebase DMT will dissolve into the Shellite. At this point no plant gunk remains.<br />
# '''Freeze Precipitation''' <br> The last step is to get your DMT freebase out of the Shellite. <br> At freezing temperatures, the DMT becomes insoluble in Shellite and will precipitate out.<br />
=== Part 1: Prepare Your Bark ===<br />
Preparing the bark is a crucial step to ensure your yield is as high as possible. The aim is to maximise the surface area of the bark so the majority of the DMT is exposed and not protected inside thick layers of wood.<br />
<br />
I have tried many methods and I find this one to work at least. Some methods are better than others; its personal choice so be innovative and find the one that works best for you.<br />
# Weight an amount of bark, for this extraction 2 kilos will be used.<br />
# Using secateurs chop the bark into pieces no larger than pictured here - the smaller the better.<br />
# Fill your grinder to about a third of its capacity with bark and grind.<br />
# Shaking it around while grinding helps to ensure that most of the bark comes into contact with the blades.<br />
# Do this until all your bark is powdered (or as close as possible to).<br />
# Be sure to give your grinder a rest between loads if you can feel it heating up too much.<br />
<br />
=== Part 2: Acid Cook ===<br />
The acid cook will convert the DMT into its water-soluble acetate salt (acetate as we are using vinegar – acetic acid). The DMT Acetate will migrate away from the bark, into the acidic water.<br />
<br />
Most acids can be used without a problem. We will use white vinegar (which contains roughly 5% acetic acid) diluted in distilled water. It is easy to get and fairly safe to work with.<br />
# Acidify an excess amount of distilled water by mixing one part vinegar to three parts water. You are aiming for a '''pH of 4'''. <br> Use a digital pH meter or litmus paper to determine the pH of the solution.<br />
# Place all the bark into a large saucepan and fill with the acidified water, ensuring all the bark is well covered. Four litres per cook was used here. <br> Bring the mixture to a light simmer and proceed to cook for a further hour. <br> Once complete, pour off and save the liquid. Perform this step a further two times.<br />
# Combine all liquids and filter out the fine bark particles through a muslin cloth. <br />
# Reduce all liquids down to a few liters on low heat. This may take several hours. <br> For your own sake '''BE SURE''' that your kitchen has adequate ventilation. Humidity can build up quicker than you think and before you know it your ceiling and walls may be dripping in oily red acidic liquid !!<br />
<br />
=== Part 3: Basify ===<br />
Basifying the acidic solution to pH 14 with Sodium Hydroxide will convert the DMT Acetate to the DMT base.<br />
<br />
The DMT base is insoluble in polar solvents (water) but soluble in non-polar solvents (Shellite).<br />
<br />
Performing this conversion is preparation for Part 4: Initial Shellite Extraction <br />
# Let the reduced acidic solution cool to lukewarm and pour into a HDPE jug like the one the water came in.<br />
# Weigh 100 grams of Sodium Hydroxide and '''SLOWLY''' add 10 grams at a time, shaking well each time. This will raise the '''pH to 14'''. <br> The solution will turn black. <br> Use a digital pH meter or litmus paper to determine the pH of the solution. <br> '''NOTE:''' Adding base to water is an exothermic reaction (releases heat) and if added too quickly to already hot water, spitting can occur. <br> You DO NOT want this stuff on you !! <br> Once the solution is basified and stable, swirl it around to homogenise the mixture.<br />
<br />
=== Part 4: Initial Shellite Extraction ===<br />
Shellite is a non-polar solvent and can be used to remove non-polar substances (DMT base) from polar solutions (water).<br />
<br />
'''Note:''' This step must be done while the solution is HOT to maximise the solubility of the DMT base into the Shellite. Without heat, yields will be greatly reduced.<br />
# Pour 250mL of Shellite into the basified solution. Put the lid on and shake. <br> '''NOTE!!''' The first few shakes will cause a rapid release of vapors which must be released. Watch the pressure carefully and release frequently !! <br> '''Adequate ventilation is a must at this point'''<br />
# Let the mixture sit for a few minutes. Looking closely you will see two layers. <br> The top layer is the Shellite layer which now contains the DMT base and some fats and oils from the bark.<br />
# Using a siphon device or some other method, separate top non-polar layer from the bottom polar layer. <br> Experiment with different ways to do this (turkey baster, ghetto separatory funnel, etc..) and find one that works for you. <br> I find siphoning the bottom layer to another jug allows for good separation.<br />
# Repeat steps 2 and 3 another two times and combine the Shellite pulls. For the third pull use 500mL of Shellite. <br> Remember to ensure that both the solution and Shellite are HOT to aid in the extraction. Use a hot water bath for this. <br> '''DO NOT''' use an open-flame heat source !!! <br> For the third pull, add another 50 grams of Sodium Hydroxide to the solution before extracting and shake real well, this will heat the solution significantly.<br />
<br />
=== Part 5: Defat Step 1: Acid Wash ===<br />
As the Shellite solution pictured above contains both DMT base and plant gunk, we are now going to remove the DMT from the solution and leave the plant gunk behind.<br />
<br />
This will be done by washing the Shellite + DMT + plant gunk solution with acidic water, resulting in the DMT base once again becoming the water-soluble salt, DMT Acetate and migrating away from the Shellite, however leaving behind the plant gunk. <br />
# Again, acidify an excess amount of distilled water by mixing one part vinegar to three parts water. You are aiming for a '''pH of 4'''. <br> Use a digital pH meter or litmus paper to determine the pH of the solution. <br />
# Add approximately 250mL of acidic water to the Shellite solution. <br> The mixture does not need to be hot; in fact it is better if all liquids at this step are kept at room temperature as otherwise plant gunk will come back across. <br />
# Using the same siphoning method in Part 4 - Step 3, siphon off the top non-polar layer from the bottom polar layer, this time keeping the polar layer (acidic water).<br />
<br />
=== Part 5: Defat Step 1: Acid Wash ===<br />
As the Shellite solution pictured above contains both DMT base and plant gunk, we are now going to remove the DMT from the solution and leave the plant gunk behind.<br />
<br />
This will be done by washing the Shellite + DMT + plant gunk solution with acidic water, resulting in the DMT base once again becoming the water-soluble salt, DMT Acetate and migrating away from the Shellite, however leaving behind the plant gunk. <br />
# Again, acidify an excess amount of distilled water by mixing one part vinegar to three parts water. You are aiming for a '''pH of 4'''. <br> Use a digital pH meter or litmus paper to determine the pH of the solution. <br />
# Add approximately 250mL of acidic water to the Shellite solution. The mixture does not need to be hot; in fact it is better if all liquids at this step are kept at room temperature as otherwise plant gunk will come back across. <br />
# Using the same siphoning method in Part 4 - Step 3, siphon off the top non-polar layer from the bottom polar layer, this time keeping the polar layer (acidic water).<br />
# Repeat step 2 three more times and combine the three polar layers. <br>For the third time use 500mL.<br />
<br />
=== Part 6: Defat Step 2: Basify ===<br />
Once again, in preparation to extract the DMT from the acidic water solution, we are going to basify the liquid.<br />
<br />
This will again convert the water-soluble DMT Acetate salt into the water-insoluble DMT base. Note that no plant gunk exists in the vinegar solution; the solution at this point consists only of acidic water + DMT Acetate.<br />
<br />
Slowly add 60 grams of Sodium Hydroxide to the solution to raise the '''pH to 14'''.<br />
<br />
Use a digital pH meter or litmus paper to determine the pH of the solution.<br />
<br />
Note that the solution has been placed into a new vessel.<br />
<br />
=== Part 7: Final Shellite Extraction ===<br />
We will now extract the DMT base from the basified solution with Shellite.<br />
<br />
As previously explained, adding Sodium Hydroxide (base) to the acidic water + DMT Acetate solution converted the DMT Acetate salt to the DMT Base which is insoluble in our polar solvent (water) and soluble in our non-polar solvent (Shellite). <br />
# Measure 250mL of Shellite and add it to the acidic water. <br> Heat the mixture in a hot water bath and shake.<br />
# Allow the layers to separate and siphon and separate, keeping the non-polar layer this time. <br> Repeat step 1 two more times and combine the Shellite extractions. <br> Again, for the third pull add another 30 grams of Sodium Hydroxide (to reheat) and extract with 500mL of Shellite.<br />
<br />
=== Part 8: Freeze Precipitation ===<br />
Our solution is now clean enough to proceed to removing the DMT Base from the Shellite.<br />
<br />
# Pour the solution into a wide-mouthed jar that you can fit your hand into and with the use of a fan, evaporate approximately half of the solution. <br> You may notice that your solution has turned milky and an oily film has formed on the glass where the solvent has been evaporated. This is actually a bunch un-crystallised DMT. If you want to get your efficiency right up then heat up the solution with a hot water bath and swirl it around plenty to re- dissolve all this DMT.<br />
# Place the solution in the freezer and resist all temptation to disturb it for at least 48 hours.<br />
# After 48 hours or more, pour off the Shellite being careful not to lose any DMT floaters with it. You should see something like this! <br> Evaporate all excess Shellite with either a fan or just leave it alone until no scent of Shellite remains. <br> For your own curiosity you can let the Shellite you poured off evaporate slowly over a week or so and see if any DMT remained in the Shellite.<br />
# Once the DMT is dry you can scrape it out and admire the end result of your hard work.<br />
<br />
Pictured is 5.9 grams of some damn clean spice <br> I attribute the ultra-high purity of the end result to the post-defat process used in this tech. <br> This yields a fairly low 0.3% (0.4 - 0.5% expected) however the tree used was very young (about 5 years old) which could be a major factor.<br />
<br />
== Reference ==<br />
<references/><br />
<br />
[[Category:Extraction Tek]]</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/LextekLextek2009-02-18T03:21:26Z<p>I*i*b: Transcribed and marked-up the Lextek. Please give it a check over.</p>
<hr />
<div>{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Lextek<ref>Lex's DMT Extraction v1.0 Oct. -2007[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Image:Lextek_v1.pdf]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}<br />
<br />
=== Section 1: Extraction of DMT ===<br />
<br />
==== Materials needed ====<br />
(Quantities can be scaled accordingly to work with smaller or larger amounts of material)<br />
* 2 kilograms of DMT containing plant material (Acacia Obtusifolia bark will be used here)<br />
* 250 grams of Sodium Hydroxide (Caustic Soda / Lye) – Bunnings / Safeway<br />
* 1 Litre of white vinegar (dilute Acetic Acid) – Safeway<br />
* 2 Litres of Shellite (non-polar solvent) – Bunnings<br />
* 12 Litres of distilled water (polar solvent) – Bunnings<br />
<br />
The idea behind the extraction is that DMT is in the plant; we can get it out.<br />
<br />
At our advantage, the state of the DMT can be changed between a salt or freebase by using acids or bases respectively, ie: if you have a pH 4 (acidic) solution containing DMT, the DMT willbe converted to a salt (using acetic acid: DMT Acetate, using tartaric acid: DMT Tartrate, etc..)If you now basify this to pH 14, all the DMT salt will be converted to its freebase form.<br />
<br />
As we change the state of the DMT, we also change its solubility properties:<br />
* DMT salts are soluble in polar solvents (water, alcohol) but insoluble in non-polar solvents.<br />
* DMT freebase is soluble in non-polar solvents (Shellite) but is insoluble in polar solvents.<br />
<br />
Understanding these basic points allows an extraction technique to be devised:<br />
# '''Prepare Your Bark''' <br> Chop up and grind your bark to maximise its exposed surface area.<br />
# '''Acid Cook''' <br> Simmer the bark in pH 4 acidic water (using vinegar). Keep the liquid and discard the bark. <br> The low pH ensures all DMT is in its salt form, which will dissolve into the water.<br />
# '''Basify''' <br> Basify the liquid to pH 14 with Sodium Hydroxide (Caustic Soda / Lye). <br> The high pH ensures all DMT is in its freebase form, which is soluble in Shellite.<br />
# '''Initial Shellite Extraction''' Add an amount of Shellite to the above solution, shake, separate, and repeat. <br> The freebase DMT will dissolve into the Shellite, along with some unwanted plant gunk.<br />
# '''Defat Step 1: Acid Wash''' <br> Acidify water to pH 4 using acetic acid (vinegar) and add to the combined Shellite extractions. <br> This will convert the DMT freebase to the water-soluble salt, DMT Acetate. <br> The DMT Acetate will move from the Shellite to the water leaving behind the plant gunk.<br />
# '''Defat Step 2: Basify''' <br> To the water + DMT Acetate solution, add an amount of Sodium Hydroxide. <br> This will again convert the DMT to its freebase form, which is soluble in Shellite.<br />
# '''Final Shellite Extraction''' <br> Add an amount of Shellite to the above solution, shake, separate, and repeat. <br> The freebase DMT will dissolve into the Shellite. At this point no plant gunk remains.<br />
# '''Freeze Precipitation''' <br> The last step is to get your DMT freebase out of the Shellite. <br> At freezing temperatures, the DMT becomes insoluble in Shellite and will precipitate out.<br />
=== Part 1: Prepare Your Bark ===<br />
Preparing the bark is a crucial step to ensure your yield is as high as possible. The aim is to maximise the surface area of the bark so the majority of the DMT is exposed and not protected inside thick layers of wood.<br />
<br />
I have tried many methods and I find this one to work at least. Some methods are better than others; its personal choice so be innovative and find the one that works best for you.<br />
# Weight an amount of bark, for this extraction 2 kilos will be used.<br />
# Using secateurs chop the bark into pieces no larger than pictured here - the smaller the better.<br />
# Fill your grinder to about a third of its capacity with bark and grind.<br />
# Shaking it around while grinding helps to ensure that most of the bark comes into contact with the blades.<br />
# Do this until all your bark is powdered (or as close as possible to).<br />
# Be sure to give your grinder a rest between loads if you can feel it heating up too much.<br />
<br />
=== Part 2: Acid Cook ===<br />
The acid cook will convert the DMT into its water-soluble acetate salt (acetate as we are using vinegar – acetic acid). The DMT Acetate will migrate away from the bark, into the acidic water.<br />
<br />
Most acids can be used without a problem. We will use white vinegar (which contains roughly 5% acetic acid) diluted in distilled water. It is easy to get and fairly safe to work with.<br />
# Acidify an excess amount of distilled water by mixing one part vinegar to three parts water. You are aiming for a '''pH of 4'''. <br> Use a digital pH meter or litmus paper to determine the pH of the solution.<br />
# Place all the bark into a large saucepan and fill with the acidified water, ensuring all the bark is well covered. Four litres per cook was used here. <br> Bring the mixture to a light simmer and proceed to cook for a further hour. <br> Once complete, pour off and save the liquid. Perform this step a further two times.<br />
# Combine all liquids and filter out the fine bark particles through a muslin cloth. <br />
# Reduce all liquids down to a few liters on low heat. This may take several hours. <br> For your own sake '''BE SURE''' that your kitchen has adequate ventilation. Humidity can build up quicker than you think and before you know it your ceiling and walls may be dripping in oily red acidic liquid !!<br />
<br />
=== Part 3: Basify ===<br />
Basifying the acidic solution to pH 14 with Sodium Hydroxide will convert the DMT Acetate to the DMT base.<br />
<br />
The DMT base is insoluble in polar solvents (water) but soluble in non-polar solvents (Shellite).<br />
<br />
Performing this conversion is preparation for Part 4: Initial Shellite Extraction <br />
# Let the reduced acidic solution cool to lukewarm and pour into a HDPE jug like the one the water came in.<br />
# Weigh 100 grams of Sodium Hydroxide and '''SLOWLY''' add 10 grams at a time, shaking well each time. This will raise the '''pH to 14'''. <br> The solution will turn black. <br> Use a digital pH meter or litmus paper to determine the pH of the solution. <br> '''NOTE:''' Adding base to water is an exothermic reaction (releases heat) and if added too quickly to already hot water, spitting can occur. <br> You DO NOT want this stuff on you !! <br> Once the solution is basified and stable, swirl it around to homogenise the mixture.<br />
<br />
=== Part 4: Initial Shellite Extraction ===<br />
Shellite is a non-polar solvent and can be used to remove non-polar substances (DMT base) from polar solutions (water).<br />
<br />
'''Note:''' This step must be done while the solution is HOT to maximise the solubility of the DMT base into the Shellite. Without heat, yields will be greatly reduced.<br />
# Pour 250mL of Shellite into the basified solution. Put the lid on and shake. <br> '''NOTE!!''' The first few shakes will cause a rapid release of vapors which must be released. Watch the pressure carefully and release frequently !! <br> '''Adequate ventilation is a must at this point'''<br />
# Let the mixture sit for a few minutes. Looking closely you will see two layers. <br> The top layer is the Shellite layer which now contains the DMT base and some fats and oils from the bark.<br />
# Using a siphon device or some other method, separate top non-polar layer from the bottom polar layer. <br> Experiment with different ways to do this (turkey baster, ghetto separatory funnel, etc..) and find one that works for you. <br> I find siphoning the bottom layer to another jug allows for good separation.<br />
# Repeat steps 2 and 3 another two times and combine the Shellite pulls. For the third pull use 500mL of Shellite. <br> Remember to ensure that both the solution and Shellite are HOT to aid in the extraction. Use a hot water bath for this. <br> '''DO NOT''' use an open-flame heat source !!! <br> For the third pull, add another 50 grams of Sodium Hydroxide to the solution before extracting and shake real well, this will heat the solution significantly.<br />
<br />
=== Part 5: Defat Step 1: Acid Wash ===<br />
As the Shellite solution pictured above contains both DMT base and plant gunk, we are now going to remove the DMT from the solution and leave the plant gunk behind.<br />
<br />
This will be done by washing the Shellite + DMT + plant gunk solution with acidic water, resulting in the DMT base once again becoming the water-soluble salt, DMT Acetate and migrating away from the Shellite, however leaving behind the plant gunk. <br />
# Again, acidify an excess amount of distilled water by mixing one part vinegar to three parts water. You are aiming for a '''pH of 4'''. <br> Use a digital pH meter or litmus paper to determine the pH of the solution. <br />
# Add approximately 250mL of acidic water to the Shellite solution. <br> The mixture does not need to be hot; in fact it is better if all liquids at this step are kept at room temperature as otherwise plant gunk will come back across. <br />
# Using the same siphoning method in Part 4 - Step 3, siphon off the top non-polar layer from the bottom polar layer, this time keeping the polar layer (acidic water).<br />
<br />
=== Part 5: Defat Step 1: Acid Wash ===<br />
As the Shellite solution pictured above contains both DMT base and plant gunk, we are now going to remove the DMT from the solution and leave the plant gunk behind.<br />
<br />
This will be done by washing the Shellite + DMT + plant gunk solution with acidic water, resulting in the DMT base once again becoming the water-soluble salt, DMT Acetate and migrating away from the Shellite, however leaving behind the plant gunk. <br />
# Again, acidify an excess amount of distilled water by mixing one part vinegar to three parts water. You are aiming for a '''pH of 4'''. <br> Use a digital pH meter or litmus paper to determine the pH of the solution. <br />
# Add approximately 250mL of acidic water to the Shellite solution. The mixture does not need to be hot; in fact it is better if all liquids at this step are kept at room temperature as otherwise plant gunk will come back across. <br />
# Using the same siphoning method in Part 4 - Step 3, siphon off the top non-polar layer from the bottom polar layer, this time keeping the polar layer (acidic water).<br />
# Repeat step 2 three more times and combine the three polar layers. <br>For the third time use 500mL.<br />
<br />
=== Part 6: Defat Step 2: Basify ===<br />
Once again, in preparation to extract the DMT from the acidic water solution, we are going to basify the liquid.<br />
<br />
This will again convert the water-soluble DMT Acetate salt into the water-insoluble DMT base. Note that no plant gunk exists in the vinegar solution; the solution at this point consists only of acidic water + DMT Acetate.<br />
<br />
Slowly add 60 grams of Sodium Hydroxide to the solution to raise the '''pH to 14'''.<br />
<br />
Use a digital pH meter or litmus paper to determine the pH of the solution.<br />
<br />
Note that the solution has been placed into a new vessel.<br />
<br />
=== Part 7: Final Shellite Extraction ===<br />
We will now extract the DMT base from the basified solution with Shellite.<br />
<br />
As previously explained, adding Sodium Hydroxide (base) to the acidic water + DMT Acetate solution converted the DMT Acetate salt to the DMT Base which is insoluble in our polar solvent (water) and soluble in our non-polar solvent (Shellite). <br />
# Measure 250mL of Shellite and add it to the acidic water. <br> Heat the mixture in a hot water bath and shake.<br />
# Allow the layers to separate and siphon and separate, keeping the non-polar layer this time. <br> Repeat step 1 two more times and combine the Shellite extractions. <br> Again, for the third pull add another 30 grams of Sodium Hydroxide (to reheat) and extract with 500mL of Shellite.<br />
<br />
=== Part 8: Freeze Precipitation ===<br />
Our solution is now clean enough to proceed to removing the DMT Base from the Shellite.<br />
<br />
# Pour the solution into a wide-mouthed jar that you can fit your hand into and with the use of a fan, evaporate approximately half of the solution. <br> You may notice that your solution has turned milky and an oily film has formed on the glass where the solvent has been evaporated. This is actually a bunch un-crystallised DMT. If you want to get your efficiency right up then heat up the solution with a hot water bath and swirl it around plenty to re- dissolve all this DMT.<br />
# Place the solution in the freezer and resist all temptation to disturb it for at least 48 hours.<br />
# After 48 hours or more, pour off the Shellite being careful not to lose any DMT floaters with it. You should see something like this! <br> Evaporate all excess Shellite with either a fan or just leave it alone until no scent of Shellite remains. <br> For your own curiosity you can let the Shellite you poured off evaporate slowly over a week or so and see if any DMT remained in the Shellite.<br />
# Once the DMT is dry you can scrape it out and admire the end result of your hard work.<br />
<br />
Pictured is 5.9 grams of some damn clean spice <br> I attribute the ultra-high purity of the end result to the post-defat process used in this tech. <br> This yields a fairly low 0.3% (0.4 - 0.5% expected) however the tree used was very young (about 5 years old) which could be a major factor.<br />
<br />
== Reference ==<br />
<references/><br />
<br />
[[Category:Extraction Tek]]</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Lazyman%27s_tekLazyman's tek2009-02-18T01:07:33Z<p>I*i*b: Removed third heading "A report and guide for a new way of extracting MHRB"</p>
<hr />
<div>{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Lazyman's Tek<ref>The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark - 10th October 2006[http://www.entheogen.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9217]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}<br />
==The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark by Vortex==<br />
__TOC__<br />
====Extraction Time====<br />
* 1 g in 2.5 hrs<br />
* 4 g in 7 hr<br />
* 7.5 g total @ 48 hrs<br />
====Equipment====<br />
* 5 ltr ceramic mixing bowl<br />
* Potato masher<br />
* 2000 ml measuring cup<br />
* Large flat glass baking pan<br />
* Fan<br />
* VM&P [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naptha Naphtha]; hardware store<br />
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_hydroxide NaOH (sodium hydroxide)]; online auction, often listed as Red Devil Lye<br />
=== Foreword ===<br />
This process is much simpler than all of the other DMT extraction teks for [[Mimosa Hostilis]] root bark. All you need to do is throw pieces of root bark into water which has had a measured amount of NaOH dissolved into it, wait an hour, add naphtha, stir for a few minutes and then pour the naphtha off into a collection container for evaporation. In essence that is all there is to this tek. No need to fuss with acidifying the root bark for a defat, no pH papers needed, no separatory funnel, nothing fancy yet this is a very effective technique with higher yields than any other method out there yet.<br />
<br />
Here is a more detailed explanation of the extraction method using a half kilo of root bark:<br />
<br />
Break 400-500 g of Mimosa Hostilis root bark, whether inner, outer or whole root into small enough pieces all of it will fit into a large ceramic or stainless steel mixing bowl with enough room left over to only fill the bowl half way to the top. Next, completely dissolve 200 g of NaOH into 2000-3000 ml of tap water and add to the root bark. <br />
<br />
Wait an hour for the lye/sodium hydroxide to soften up the root bark and then using a stainless steel potato masher stir and mash the base adjusted water into the pieces of root bark for 20-30 minutes and then pour in 250+ ml of naphtha into the bowl and mix for another 20-30 minutes. After you are done mixing the root bark let it sit for a few minutes so that any emulsion which might have stirred up into the solvent to settle out and then just pour the majority of the solvent off of the top of the basified aqueous mix into a large flat glass baking pan and evaporate with a fan blowing air across the top of the fluid to net 600-1000 mg of alkaloid in just a few hours. <br />
<br />
Is there any easier process to extract and isolate that much alkaloid in two to three hours from a pound of root bark? Although the initial yield will be much higher if extracting powdered root bark which takes much less time, whole or broken root bark can also provide high yields if you wait two or three days for the hard strips of bark to turn into a mush as the NaOH breaks it down further and further over time in the basified solution for a higher extraction yield. If waiting 24 hours and performing a single extraction the broken root bark the basified aqueous mix will still need to be extracted over again three or more times to get more of the DMT alkaloid out. That's it, a very simple process with yields others have reported to be much higher than the more often used A/B or acid to base teks. With dried Mimosa hostilis root bark the DMT is already in the form of a salt as is and there are so little plant fats many people simply do not bother with a defat cycle so going strait to base chemical works out very well with this material.<br />
==== Dry defat without acid ====<br />
Although Mimosa Hostilis root bark extracts fairly cleanly with minimal plant fats if you want to remove what little of it there is you can do so without adding an acid to the powder with water by just mixing the dry (no H<sub>2</sub>0) root bark powder into enough naphtha to allow all of the powder to be freely stirred up into the fluid for a few minutes and then filtered out of the naphtha which is then discarded. For an extreme defat heat the naphtha to near its boiling point and then stir the powder into it but be sure to pour off every drop of naphtha you can when done and throw that naphtha away, you should not use it for anything more in the process. Once you are done with the solvent defat the root bark powder is then dumped into the basified mix, as is and wet with naphtha if you like, or after drying. No harm adding root bark with a little naphtha still soaked into it from the defat, you are just going to end up pouring more naphtha in anyway. This "dry" defat without water works very well to remove what fats there are but is not really needed if extracting the plant material at room temperature. <br />
=== Step by step guide for the above using a pound of root bark ===<br />
If you want to use more or less root bark fraction or multiply out everything specified in this tech for smaller or larger amounts:<br />
# Break a pound or 454 g of dried of Mimosa Hostilis root bark into small pieces so that no piece is longer than three inches allowing them to all nicely fit into the bottom of a large 5 liter mixing bowl with lots of extra room left over and set to the side.<br />
# Prepare some basified water by fully dissolving 200 g (~13 measured tablespoons full) of NaOH powder into 2 ltr of tap water in a large measuring cup. <br />
# Add the basified water you just made to the bowl of broken root bark, stir for a few minutes and set aside for two or more hours (longer is better). <br />
# After soaking the root bark in high pH NaOH adjusted water (which is near a pH of 13.5 or more) for a couple of hours or more take a stainless steel potato masher and start mashing the broken root as best you can in the basified water for 20-30 minutes (longer is better). <br />
# After you are done mashing the root bark for a few minutes (which will still be fairly hard if only soaking 2 hours) then add 250-400 ml of clean room temperature naphtha (more makes separation from the soup easier) and stir the solvent into the aqueous mix for 20-30 minutes (longer is better). <br />
# After mixing the naphtha into the bowl pour as much of the solvent as you can easily get off of the top of the aqueous mix (naphtha floats on top in water as a distinct layer) into another container, leaving all of the dark soup behind which will be extracted over again later. Be sure not to allow any of the dark water or any of the bubbly emulsion which may have formed in the solvent to go out with it, you just want clear solvent now leaving everything else behind in the bowl. '''Note:''' If you have so much emulsion that the solvent is half filled with it wait a few minutes to an hour for it to settle out so you can get more of the solvent out. <br />
# Take all of the clear naphtha without any water or bubbles in it you have carefully separated from the basified mix of water and root bark and pour all of it into as large a flat glass container you can find for evaporation. Using a fan to blow air across the top of the fluid will help speed the rate of evaporation several fold faster. <br />
# After all of the naphtha has been evaporated you will find small white DMT bumps of extract stuck to the glass which can be scraped off with a flat blade. If you also see some shiny clear film on the glass it is best to wait until they completely solidify into a white deposit of DMT before scraping off together with the larger white clumps.<br />
=== Extraction notes ===<br />
When this extraction process was first tried with inner root bark 1.0 g of very white alkaloid without discernable fat impurities was extracted from beginning to end in just 2 and a half hours and that includes the time to fan evaporate the naphtha in a broad flat glass pan. Of course, the aqueous mix of root bark needs to be extracted over to get more of the alkaloid out of the mix but you can get plenty of DMT for unspecified uses in a short amount of time this way with a minimal amount of elbow grease and time.<br />
==== Soaking the root bark in basified water ====<br />
The broken inner root bark was soaked in 2 ltr of water with 75 g of NaOH dissolved into it for 1 hour before trying to mash the root bark in the basified water with a potato masher. The bark almost immediately became a dark black color and the water soon after became very dark brown colored which after 30 minutes of working the root bark with a masher started to appear more black than brown. <br />
==== The first extraction cycle ====<br />
After that 400 ml of naphtha was poured into the aqueous basified mix which was then stirred for 30 minutes with a potato masher so that the solvent would absorb the alkaloid released from the root bark by the high pH water. I like to use 300-400 ml of solvent per extraction to make separation from the basified portion of the mix easier. Then the naphtha was carefully and slowly poured off the top of the aqueous mix into another container for full evaporation to net a full gram of white alkaloid from 500 g of inner Mimosa Hostilis root bark without powdering it. <br />
==== Second extraction, NaOH doubled ====<br />
Right after this first extraction I wanted to see if increasing the amount of NaOH would increase the yield so 75 g more of NaOH was dissolved into ~750 ml of additional water and added to the mix with 400 ml more of naphtha poured into the bowl which was stirred again for close to 30 minutes and carefully separated from the mix for evaporation. With the amount of NaOH doubled the yield was found to be 50% greater at 1.5 g of alkaloid and because of this I recommend a minimum of 150 g of NaOH for 2 ltr of water when extracting 250-500 g of broken root bark and from 200-250 g of this base per 3+ ltr of water when extracting from 500-1000 g of broken root bark. <br />
==== Third extraction ====<br />
After the first two extractions the root bark was extracted a third time right way. 400 ml of fresh solvent was added to the mix again and stirred for 30 minutes before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation to yield about ~1.25 g on the third try that day, all in just a few hours. From there another 400 ml of naphtha (which is way more than needed on a solubility basis) was added to the brown to black appearing aqueous solution, covered to prevent further evaporation and put away to soak for close to 24 hours.<br />
==== Fourth extraction, long soak ====<br />
After another day the root bark had become far softer and almost slimy instead of stiff root bark as it had been the day before, the NaOH clearly doing its job at breaking the plant material down. The solvent from this forth long term extraction was evaporated to yield another 1.5 g of white extract for a total of close to 5 grams of impure DMT from 500 g of inner root bark from the four extractions spread over 30+ hours from when the root bark was first placed in the bowl. <br />
==== Fifth extraction, another 24 hours and warming ====<br />
For this fifth extraction of the aqueous solution naphtha was added into the bowl and allowed to sit another 24 hours before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation. An hour before pouring it off the mix was warmed to 120&deg; F. and stirred for 20 minutes. Upon evaporation I found that the warming had made quite a difference, even after having extracted the mix four times prior I found that I was able to draw nearly 2 g of alkaloid into the solvent this time which was more than any of the previous single extractions, even greater than the first or second which you would naturally assume would be greater. Part of the reason for this might be that the root bark had soaked in the basified solution longer releasing more alkaloid to the water and also part due to both the basified mix and solvent being warm but in any case the draw was highest on the fifth extraction of the solution bringing the total net up to ~6.5 g with more left in the root bark to get out, all from 500 g of inner root bark. <br />
==== Sixth extraction, more heat caused problems ====<br />
A sixth and last extraction was performed to the mix by pouring 500 ml of fresh naphtha back into the bowl, stirring for a few minutes and then heating the aqueous solution under the naphtha to 130&deg; F. for an hour, stirring often. The temperature of the naphtha floating on top of the basified solution was measured to be 10-15&deg; cooler than the basified mix below it due to what I assume was being caused by cooling as the solvent evaporated off the top, even though a fairly slow rate of evaporation. After an hour at 130&deg; F. the warm naphtha was poured off for rapid fan evaporation in the large flat glass pan which yielded close to 2 g of yellowish extract (only becoming yellow after solidifying, clear until then) but this time upon cooling did not firm up very quickly and even after 8 hours was a very soft sticky extract which was obviously mostly DMT as indicated by both smell and crystalline formations but would not dry into a firm wax-like substance very quickly due to what I believe might be fatty impurities released from the root bark when heated too far in the base solution.<br />
==== Extraction advice; soak longer, extract more with less work ====<br />
Instead of all of the multiple extractions one after the other you could save yourself some work by just throwing 500 g of broken pieces of root bark into 2 ltr of water with 200 g of NaOH dissolved into the water and then pour in 750 ml of naphtha and set the whole container aside for three days, stirring just once a day for 20 minutes at a time. After three days the solvent from a single draw of the aqueous mix should contain far more alkaloid, maybe has high as two thirds the total amount I had pulled out in four separate draws done over 24 hours. Obviously, even after letting the mix sit for three days and a very successful first big pull of the alkaloid from the mix you will need to re-extract the aqueous solution with more naphtha at least three times to get the bulk of the alkaloid out but then you could probably still continue extracting the mix a half dozen times or more and still get more of the alkaloid out each time, although ever diminishing returns. You just have to decide how much you want to get out of the mix before considering it a waste of time or solvent to continue working at it. <br />
==== Notes on separating the naphtha from the aqueous mix ====<br />
When separating the naphtha from the NaOH/H<sub>2</sub>O/root you may need to first pour the solvent off the top of the mix into a large measuring cup allowing some of the dark basified water to come over with it so that you can more easily pour the solvent off using the small spout on the measuring cup because when pouring the solvent out of a bowl it is difficult to control what pours out. <br />
==== To warm or not to warm the basified mix of root bark ====<br />
Although the majority of the alkaloid had been extracted at room temperature for this extraction I found that the amount of alkaloid extracted is greater when the mix is warmed up to 100&deg; F. Whether it is a good idea to warm highly basified DMT containing plant material I do not know. Although the yield was greater in a shorter amount of time on that last draw at over 130&deg; F. the extract was different, although clear before complete evaporation of the naphtha it turned a yellow color and remained as a syrup-like liquid for two days, although which took days to begin to crystalize yet it appears to be fairly high percentage DMT by both smell and appearance when it does crystalize. Perhaps heating the mix allows plant fats to come over which did not do so before? Perhaps Not being any kind of a chemist I do not know the answer to this but I can accurately report on what I observed which is all this tech really is, a report.<br />
<br />
When soaking the root bark in the warmed solution be sure to periodically check the temperature to make sure the solution does not go over 120&deg; F. or you might get a lot of the gummy impurities in the extract which showed up when I did so. Even though I am recommending 100&deg; F. and suggesting an upper limit of 120&deg; F. even 100&deg; F might be too warm if over a long enough period of time causing some of the gummy substance I had observed coming over into the solvent at ~130&deg;+ to be extracted. To assure this substance does not extract along with the alkaloid it might be better to just leave the solution at normal room temperatures while soaking the bark in the aqueous mix for 72+ hours and only raise the solution to 120&deg; F. for an hour prior to pouring the solvent off for evaporation. <br />
<br />
If you decide to heat your basified mix with naphtha in it for hours to days as the root bark is broken down by the NaOH I would cover the container with kitchen plastic wrap or something to slow the evaporation of the naphtha. After 48 hours the root bark is broken down pretty good by the lye to where it becomes fairly soft and extracts well but if you are using powdered root bark I do not believe it would be necessary to soak the bark for that long a period of time at all, probably just an hour or more should be enough to chemically break the powder itself down further for a higher extraction yield. <br />
<br />
There is a report that DMT will break down in solution over time, more easily if at high pH. While I have not verified this report I did get a runny extra<br />
== Reference ==<br />
<references/><br />
[[Category:Extraction Tek]]</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Lazyman%27s_tekLazyman's tek2009-02-18T01:05:46Z<p>I*i*b: Some rationalisation of chemical abbreviations/names</p>
<hr />
<div>{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Lazyman's Tek<ref>The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark - 10th October 2006[http://www.entheogen.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9217]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}<br />
==The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark by Vortex==<br />
===A report and guide for a new way of extracting MHRB===<br />
__TOC__<br />
====Extraction Time====<br />
* 1 g in 2.5 hrs<br />
* 4 g in 7 hr<br />
* 7.5 g total @ 48 hrs<br />
====Equipment====<br />
* 5 ltr ceramic mixing bowl<br />
* Potato masher<br />
* 2000 ml measuring cup<br />
* Large flat glass baking pan<br />
* Fan<br />
* VM&P [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naptha Naphtha]; hardware store<br />
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_hydroxide NaOH (sodium hydroxide)]; online auction, often listed as Red Devil Lye<br />
=== Foreword ===<br />
This process is much simpler than all of the other DMT extraction teks for [[Mimosa Hostilis]] root bark. All you need to do is throw pieces of root bark into water which has had a measured amount of NaOH dissolved into it, wait an hour, add naphtha, stir for a few minutes and then pour the naphtha off into a collection container for evaporation. In essence that is all there is to this tek. No need to fuss with acidifying the root bark for a defat, no pH papers needed, no separatory funnel, nothing fancy yet this is a very effective technique with higher yields than any other method out there yet.<br />
<br />
Here is a more detailed explanation of the extraction method using a half kilo of root bark:<br />
<br />
Break 400-500 g of Mimosa Hostilis root bark, whether inner, outer or whole root into small enough pieces all of it will fit into a large ceramic or stainless steel mixing bowl with enough room left over to only fill the bowl half way to the top. Next, completely dissolve 200 g of NaOH into 2000-3000 ml of tap water and add to the root bark. <br />
<br />
Wait an hour for the lye/sodium hydroxide to soften up the root bark and then using a stainless steel potato masher stir and mash the base adjusted water into the pieces of root bark for 20-30 minutes and then pour in 250+ ml of naphtha into the bowl and mix for another 20-30 minutes. After you are done mixing the root bark let it sit for a few minutes so that any emulsion which might have stirred up into the solvent to settle out and then just pour the majority of the solvent off of the top of the basified aqueous mix into a large flat glass baking pan and evaporate with a fan blowing air across the top of the fluid to net 600-1000 mg of alkaloid in just a few hours. <br />
<br />
Is there any easier process to extract and isolate that much alkaloid in two to three hours from a pound of root bark? Although the initial yield will be much higher if extracting powdered root bark which takes much less time, whole or broken root bark can also provide high yields if you wait two or three days for the hard strips of bark to turn into a mush as the NaOH breaks it down further and further over time in the basified solution for a higher extraction yield. If waiting 24 hours and performing a single extraction the broken root bark the basified aqueous mix will still need to be extracted over again three or more times to get more of the DMT alkaloid out. That's it, a very simple process with yields others have reported to be much higher than the more often used A/B or acid to base teks. With dried Mimosa hostilis root bark the DMT is already in the form of a salt as is and there are so little plant fats many people simply do not bother with a defat cycle so going strait to base chemical works out very well with this material.<br />
==== Dry defat without acid ====<br />
Although Mimosa Hostilis root bark extracts fairly cleanly with minimal plant fats if you want to remove what little of it there is you can do so without adding an acid to the powder with water by just mixing the dry (no H<sub>2</sub>0) root bark powder into enough naphtha to allow all of the powder to be freely stirred up into the fluid for a few minutes and then filtered out of the naphtha which is then discarded. For an extreme defat heat the naphtha to near its boiling point and then stir the powder into it but be sure to pour off every drop of naphtha you can when done and throw that naphtha away, you should not use it for anything more in the process. Once you are done with the solvent defat the root bark powder is then dumped into the basified mix, as is and wet with naphtha if you like, or after drying. No harm adding root bark with a little naphtha still soaked into it from the defat, you are just going to end up pouring more naphtha in anyway. This "dry" defat without water works very well to remove what fats there are but is not really needed if extracting the plant material at room temperature. <br />
=== Step by step guide for the above using a pound of root bark ===<br />
If you want to use more or less root bark fraction or multiply out everything specified in this tech for smaller or larger amounts:<br />
# Break a pound or 454 g of dried of Mimosa Hostilis root bark into small pieces so that no piece is longer than three inches allowing them to all nicely fit into the bottom of a large 5 liter mixing bowl with lots of extra room left over and set to the side.<br />
# Prepare some basified water by fully dissolving 200 g (~13 measured tablespoons full) of NaOH powder into 2 ltr of tap water in a large measuring cup. <br />
# Add the basified water you just made to the bowl of broken root bark, stir for a few minutes and set aside for two or more hours (longer is better). <br />
# After soaking the root bark in high pH NaOH adjusted water (which is near a pH of 13.5 or more) for a couple of hours or more take a stainless steel potato masher and start mashing the broken root as best you can in the basified water for 20-30 minutes (longer is better). <br />
# After you are done mashing the root bark for a few minutes (which will still be fairly hard if only soaking 2 hours) then add 250-400 ml of clean room temperature naphtha (more makes separation from the soup easier) and stir the solvent into the aqueous mix for 20-30 minutes (longer is better). <br />
# After mixing the naphtha into the bowl pour as much of the solvent as you can easily get off of the top of the aqueous mix (naphtha floats on top in water as a distinct layer) into another container, leaving all of the dark soup behind which will be extracted over again later. Be sure not to allow any of the dark water or any of the bubbly emulsion which may have formed in the solvent to go out with it, you just want clear solvent now leaving everything else behind in the bowl. '''Note:''' If you have so much emulsion that the solvent is half filled with it wait a few minutes to an hour for it to settle out so you can get more of the solvent out. <br />
# Take all of the clear naphtha without any water or bubbles in it you have carefully separated from the basified mix of water and root bark and pour all of it into as large a flat glass container you can find for evaporation. Using a fan to blow air across the top of the fluid will help speed the rate of evaporation several fold faster. <br />
# After all of the naphtha has been evaporated you will find small white DMT bumps of extract stuck to the glass which can be scraped off with a flat blade. If you also see some shiny clear film on the glass it is best to wait until they completely solidify into a white deposit of DMT before scraping off together with the larger white clumps.<br />
=== Extraction notes ===<br />
When this extraction process was first tried with inner root bark 1.0 g of very white alkaloid without discernable fat impurities was extracted from beginning to end in just 2 and a half hours and that includes the time to fan evaporate the naphtha in a broad flat glass pan. Of course, the aqueous mix of root bark needs to be extracted over to get more of the alkaloid out of the mix but you can get plenty of DMT for unspecified uses in a short amount of time this way with a minimal amount of elbow grease and time.<br />
==== Soaking the root bark in basified water ====<br />
The broken inner root bark was soaked in 2 ltr of water with 75 g of NaOH dissolved into it for 1 hour before trying to mash the root bark in the basified water with a potato masher. The bark almost immediately became a dark black color and the water soon after became very dark brown colored which after 30 minutes of working the root bark with a masher started to appear more black than brown. <br />
==== The first extraction cycle ====<br />
After that 400 ml of naphtha was poured into the aqueous basified mix which was then stirred for 30 minutes with a potato masher so that the solvent would absorb the alkaloid released from the root bark by the high pH water. I like to use 300-400 ml of solvent per extraction to make separation from the basified portion of the mix easier. Then the naphtha was carefully and slowly poured off the top of the aqueous mix into another container for full evaporation to net a full gram of white alkaloid from 500 g of inner Mimosa Hostilis root bark without powdering it. <br />
==== Second extraction, NaOH doubled ====<br />
Right after this first extraction I wanted to see if increasing the amount of NaOH would increase the yield so 75 g more of NaOH was dissolved into ~750 ml of additional water and added to the mix with 400 ml more of naphtha poured into the bowl which was stirred again for close to 30 minutes and carefully separated from the mix for evaporation. With the amount of NaOH doubled the yield was found to be 50% greater at 1.5 g of alkaloid and because of this I recommend a minimum of 150 g of NaOH for 2 ltr of water when extracting 250-500 g of broken root bark and from 200-250 g of this base per 3+ ltr of water when extracting from 500-1000 g of broken root bark. <br />
==== Third extraction ====<br />
After the first two extractions the root bark was extracted a third time right way. 400 ml of fresh solvent was added to the mix again and stirred for 30 minutes before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation to yield about ~1.25 g on the third try that day, all in just a few hours. From there another 400 ml of naphtha (which is way more than needed on a solubility basis) was added to the brown to black appearing aqueous solution, covered to prevent further evaporation and put away to soak for close to 24 hours.<br />
==== Fourth extraction, long soak ====<br />
After another day the root bark had become far softer and almost slimy instead of stiff root bark as it had been the day before, the NaOH clearly doing its job at breaking the plant material down. The solvent from this forth long term extraction was evaporated to yield another 1.5 g of white extract for a total of close to 5 grams of impure DMT from 500 g of inner root bark from the four extractions spread over 30+ hours from when the root bark was first placed in the bowl. <br />
==== Fifth extraction, another 24 hours and warming ====<br />
For this fifth extraction of the aqueous solution naphtha was added into the bowl and allowed to sit another 24 hours before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation. An hour before pouring it off the mix was warmed to 120&deg; F. and stirred for 20 minutes. Upon evaporation I found that the warming had made quite a difference, even after having extracted the mix four times prior I found that I was able to draw nearly 2 g of alkaloid into the solvent this time which was more than any of the previous single extractions, even greater than the first or second which you would naturally assume would be greater. Part of the reason for this might be that the root bark had soaked in the basified solution longer releasing more alkaloid to the water and also part due to both the basified mix and solvent being warm but in any case the draw was highest on the fifth extraction of the solution bringing the total net up to ~6.5 g with more left in the root bark to get out, all from 500 g of inner root bark. <br />
==== Sixth extraction, more heat caused problems ====<br />
A sixth and last extraction was performed to the mix by pouring 500 ml of fresh naphtha back into the bowl, stirring for a few minutes and then heating the aqueous solution under the naphtha to 130&deg; F. for an hour, stirring often. The temperature of the naphtha floating on top of the basified solution was measured to be 10-15&deg; cooler than the basified mix below it due to what I assume was being caused by cooling as the solvent evaporated off the top, even though a fairly slow rate of evaporation. After an hour at 130&deg; F. the warm naphtha was poured off for rapid fan evaporation in the large flat glass pan which yielded close to 2 g of yellowish extract (only becoming yellow after solidifying, clear until then) but this time upon cooling did not firm up very quickly and even after 8 hours was a very soft sticky extract which was obviously mostly DMT as indicated by both smell and crystalline formations but would not dry into a firm wax-like substance very quickly due to what I believe might be fatty impurities released from the root bark when heated too far in the base solution.<br />
==== Extraction advice; soak longer, extract more with less work ====<br />
Instead of all of the multiple extractions one after the other you could save yourself some work by just throwing 500 g of broken pieces of root bark into 2 ltr of water with 200 g of NaOH dissolved into the water and then pour in 750 ml of naphtha and set the whole container aside for three days, stirring just once a day for 20 minutes at a time. After three days the solvent from a single draw of the aqueous mix should contain far more alkaloid, maybe has high as two thirds the total amount I had pulled out in four separate draws done over 24 hours. Obviously, even after letting the mix sit for three days and a very successful first big pull of the alkaloid from the mix you will need to re-extract the aqueous solution with more naphtha at least three times to get the bulk of the alkaloid out but then you could probably still continue extracting the mix a half dozen times or more and still get more of the alkaloid out each time, although ever diminishing returns. You just have to decide how much you want to get out of the mix before considering it a waste of time or solvent to continue working at it. <br />
==== Notes on separating the naphtha from the aqueous mix ====<br />
When separating the naphtha from the NaOH/H<sub>2</sub>O/root you may need to first pour the solvent off the top of the mix into a large measuring cup allowing some of the dark basified water to come over with it so that you can more easily pour the solvent off using the small spout on the measuring cup because when pouring the solvent out of a bowl it is difficult to control what pours out. <br />
==== To warm or not to warm the basified mix of root bark ====<br />
Although the majority of the alkaloid had been extracted at room temperature for this extraction I found that the amount of alkaloid extracted is greater when the mix is warmed up to 100&deg; F. Whether it is a good idea to warm highly basified DMT containing plant material I do not know. Although the yield was greater in a shorter amount of time on that last draw at over 130&deg; F. the extract was different, although clear before complete evaporation of the naphtha it turned a yellow color and remained as a syrup-like liquid for two days, although which took days to begin to crystalize yet it appears to be fairly high percentage DMT by both smell and appearance when it does crystalize. Perhaps heating the mix allows plant fats to come over which did not do so before? Perhaps Not being any kind of a chemist I do not know the answer to this but I can accurately report on what I observed which is all this tech really is, a report.<br />
<br />
When soaking the root bark in the warmed solution be sure to periodically check the temperature to make sure the solution does not go over 120&deg; F. or you might get a lot of the gummy impurities in the extract which showed up when I did so. Even though I am recommending 100&deg; F. and suggesting an upper limit of 120&deg; F. even 100&deg; F might be too warm if over a long enough period of time causing some of the gummy substance I had observed coming over into the solvent at ~130&deg;+ to be extracted. To assure this substance does not extract along with the alkaloid it might be better to just leave the solution at normal room temperatures while soaking the bark in the aqueous mix for 72+ hours and only raise the solution to 120&deg; F. for an hour prior to pouring the solvent off for evaporation. <br />
<br />
If you decide to heat your basified mix with naphtha in it for hours to days as the root bark is broken down by the NaOH I would cover the container with kitchen plastic wrap or something to slow the evaporation of the naphtha. After 48 hours the root bark is broken down pretty good by the lye to where it becomes fairly soft and extracts well but if you are using powdered root bark I do not believe it would be necessary to soak the bark for that long a period of time at all, probably just an hour or more should be enough to chemically break the powder itself down further for a higher extraction yield. <br />
<br />
There is a report that DMT will break down in solution over time, more easily if at high pH. While I have not verified this report I did get a runny extra<br />
== Reference ==<br />
<references/><br />
[[Category:Extraction Tek]]</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Community_portalDMT-Nexus Wiki:Community portal2009-02-17T23:55:17Z<p>I*i*b: Noted edits to Lazyman tek page</p>
<hr />
<div>== DMT-Nexus community ==<br />
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.com Our Home page]<br />
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum Our forum]<br />
<br />
== DMT-Nexus Forum Threads in Regards to the Wiki ==<br />
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3613 DMT-Nexus WiKi]<br />
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3613 DMT-Nexus Wiki Renewal]<br />
<br />
== ToDo List ==<br />
Here is a ToDo list for work that has to be done at our Wiki, listed in order of priority.<br />
<br />
* Existing Articles:<br />
** [[The Nexian DMT Handbook]] -> write up of several subjects is needed<br />
** [[DMT Containing Plants]] -> Layout of all plants needs to be done (only top list is done)<br />
** [[Scientific Articles on Psychedelics]] -> All the articles need to be linked to their appropriate files.<br />
* New Articles:<br />
** All the Exttraction Teks (DMT ''and'' allies like [http://www.erowid.org/plants/mimosa/mimosa_chemistry1.shtml Nomans Tek])<br />
** [[Jungle Spice]] (Creating a Wiki out of [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1115 Entropymancers] excellent script.<br />
** [[Mimosa Hostilis]] (Cultivation section needed, [[Mimosa Hostilis#Refinery for the Purpose of Extraction|Refinery for the Purpose of Extraction]] needs additional steps and photos)<br />
** [[Freeze Precipitation]]<br />
** [[The Machine]]<br />
** [[Acid/Base]]<br />
** [[Straight To Base]]<br />
** [[DMT Potentiators]] (About potentiators and their interaction with DMT, e.g. Theobromine)<br />
** [[Pharmahuasca]] [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1363]<br />
** Teks:<br />
*** [[Noman's tek]] [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/doc/nomans_dmt_extraction_tek.pdf] (needs writeup)<br />
*** [[Lazyman's tek]] [http://www.entheogen.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9217] (Transcribed / marked-up - please check)<br />
*** [[Marsofold's tek]] [http://dmt-nexus.com/webackup/tek1-marsfolds.htm] (needs writeup)<br />
*** [[Vovin's tek]] [http://dmt-nexus.com/doc/Vovin%27s%20Unabridged%20Extraction%20guide.pdf] (needs markup)<br />
*** [[Nontoxic limonene tek]] [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/Default.aspx?g=posts&t=1308] (needs writeup)<br />
*** [[The DMT Handbook]] [http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=28289]<br />
*** [[Lextek]] [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Image:Lextek_v1.pdf] (needs writeup)<br />
*** [[Spice Extraction-The FASA Approach]] [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Image:SPICE_EXTRACTION-The_FASA_approach.pdf] (needs writeup)<br />
* Other:<br />
** [[Special:Categories|Categorization]] of Articles<br />
** Templates for Materials List and Procedures and Botanics Info</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Lazyman%27s_tekLazyman's tek2009-02-17T23:53:45Z<p>I*i*b: Minor text edits and internal wiki link to Mimosa Hostilis page</p>
<hr />
<div>{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Lazyman's Tek<ref>The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark - 10th October 2006[http://www.entheogen.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9217]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}<br />
==The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark by Vortex==<br />
===A report and guide for a new way of extracting MHRB===<br />
__TOC__<br />
====Extraction Time====<br />
* 1 g in 2.5 hrs<br />
* 4 g in 7 hr<br />
* 7.5 g total @ 48 hrs<br />
====Equipment====<br />
* 5 ltr ceramic mixing bowl<br />
* Potato masher<br />
* 2000 ml measuring cup<br />
* Large flat glass baking pan<br />
* Fan<br />
* VM&P [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naptha Naphtha]; hardware store<br />
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_hydroxide NaOH (sodium hydroxide)]; online auction, often listed as Red Devil Lye<br />
=== Foreword ===<br />
This process is much simpler than all of the other DMT extraction teks for [[Mimosa Hostilis]] root bark. All you need to do is throw pieces of root bark into water which has had a measured amount of NaOH dissolved into it, wait an hour, add naphtha, stir for a few minutes and then pour the naphtha off into a collection container for evaporation. In essence that is all there is to this tek. No need to fuss with acidifying the root bark for a defat, no pH papers needed, no separatory funnel, nothing fancy yet this is a very effective technique with higher yields than any other method out there yet.<br />
<br />
Here is a more detailed explanation of the extraction method using a half kilo of root bark:<br />
<br />
Break 400-500 g of Mimosa Hostilis root bark, whether inner, outer or whole root into small enough pieces all of it will fit into a large ceramic or stainless steel mixing bowl with enough room left over to only fill the bowl half way to the top. Next, completely dissolve 200 g of NaOH into 2000-3000 ml of tap water and add to the root bark. <br />
<br />
Wait an hour for the lye/sodium hydroxide to soften up the root bark and then using a stainless steel potato masher stir and mash the base adjusted water into the pieces of root bark for 20-30 minutes and then pour in 250+ ml of naphtha into the bowl and mix for another 20-30 minutes. After you are done mixing the root bark let it sit for a few minutes so that any emulsion which might have stirred up into the solvent to settle out and then just pour the majority of the solvent off of the top of the basified aqueous mix into a large flat glass baking pan and evaporate with a fan blowing air across the top of the fluid to net 600-1000 mg of alkaloid in just a few hours. <br />
<br />
Is there any easier process to extract and isolate that much alkaloid in two to three hours from a pound of root bark? Although the initial yield will be much higher if extracting powdered root bark which takes much less time, whole or broken root bark can also provide high yields if you wait two or three days for the hard strips of bark to turn into a mush as the NaOH breaks it down further and further over time in the basified solution for a higher extraction yield. If waiting 24 hours and performing a single extraction the broken root bark the basified aqueous mix will still need to be extracted over again three or more times to get more of the DMT alkaloid out. That's it, a very simple process with yields others have reported to be much higher than the more often used A/B or acid to base teks. With dried Mimosa hostilis root bark the DMT is already in the form of a salt as is and there are so little plant fats many people simply do not bother with a defat cycle so going strait to base chemical works out very well with this material.<br />
==== Dry defat without acid ====<br />
Although Mimosa Hostilis root bark extracts fairly cleanly with minimal plant fats if you want to remove what little of it there is you can do so without adding an acid to the powder with water by just mixing the dry (no H20) root bark powder into enough naphtha to allow all of the powder to be freely stirred up into the fluid for a few minutes and then filtered out of the naphtha which is then discarded. For an extreme defat heat the naphtha to near its boiling point and then stir the powder into it but be sure to pour off every drop of naphtha you can when done and throw that naphtha away, you should not use it for anything more in the process. Once you are done with the solvent defat the root bark powder is then dumped into the basified mix, as is and wet with naphtha if you like, or after drying. No harm adding root bark with a little naphtha still soaked into it from the defat, you are just going to end up pouring more naphtha in anyway. This "dry" defat without water works very well to remove what fats there are but is not really needed if extracting the plant material at room temperature. <br />
=== Step by step guide for the above using a pound of root bark ===<br />
If you want to use more or less root bark fraction or multiply out everything specified in this tech for smaller or larger amounts:<br />
# Break a pound or 454 g of dried of Mimosa Hostilis root bark into small pieces so that no piece is longer than three inches allowing them to all nicely fit into the bottom of a large 5 liter mixing bowl with lots of extra room left over and set to the side.<br />
# Prepare some basified water by fully dissolving 200 g (~13 measured tablespoons full) of NaOH powder into 2 ltr of tap water in a large measuring cup. <br />
# Add the basified water you just made to the bowl of broken root bark, stir for a few minutes and set aside for two or more hours (longer is better). <br />
# After soaking the root bark in high pH NaOH adjusted water (which is near a pH of 13.5 or more) for a couple of hours or more take a stainless steel potato masher and start mashing the broken root as best you can in the basified water for 20-30 minutes (longer is better). <br />
# After you are done mashing the root bark for a few minutes (which will still be fairly hard if only soaking 2 hours) then add 250-400 ml of clean room temperature naphtha (more makes separation from the soup easier) and stir the solvent into the aqueous mix for 20-30 minutes (longer is better). <br />
# After mixing the naphtha into the bowl pour as much of the solvent as you can easily get off of the top of the aqueous mix (naphtha floats on top in water as a distinct layer) into another container, leaving all of the dark soup behind which will be extracted over again later. Be sure not to allow any of the dark water or any of the bubbly emulsion which may have formed in the solvent to go out with it, you just want clear solvent now leaving everything else behind in the bowl. '''Note:''' If you have so much emulsion that the solvent is half filled with it wait a few minutes to an hour for it to settle out so you can get more of the solvent out. <br />
# Take all of the clear naphtha without any water or bubbles in it you have carefully separated from the basified mix of water and root bark and pour all of it into as large a flat glass container you can find for evaporation. Using a fan to blow air across the top of the fluid will help speed the rate of evaporation several fold faster. <br />
# After all of the naphtha has been evaporated you will find small white DMT bumps of extract stuck to the glass which can be scraped off with a flat blade. If you also see some shiny clear film on the glass it is best to wait until they completely solidify into a white deposit of DMT before scraping off together with the larger white clumps.<br />
=== Extraction notes ===<br />
When this extraction process was first tried with inner root bark 1.0 g of very white alkaloid without discernable fat impurities was extracted from beginning to end in just 2 and a half hours and that includes the time to fan evaporate the naphtha in a broad flat glass pan. Of course, the aqueous mix of root bark needs to be extracted over to get more of the alkaloid out of the mix but you can get plenty of DMT for unspecified uses in a short amount of time this way with a minimal amount of elbow grease and time.<br />
==== Soaking the root bark in basified water ====<br />
The broken inner root bark was soaked in 2 ltr of water with 75 g of NaOH dissolved into it for 1 hour before trying to mash the root bark in the basified water with a potato masher. The bark almost immediately became a dark black color and the water soon after became very dark brown colored which after 30 minutes of working the root bark with a masher started to appear more black than brown. <br />
==== The first extraction cycle ====<br />
After that 400 ml of naphtha was poured into the aqueous basified mix which was then stirred for 30 minutes with a potato masher so that the solvent would absorb the alkaloid released from the root bark by the high pH water. I like to use 300-400 ml of solvent per extraction to make separation from the basified portion of the mix easier. Then the naphtha was carefully and slowly poured off the top of the aqueous mix into another container for full evaporation to net a full gram of white alkaloid from 500 g of inner Mimosa Hostilis root bark without powdering it. <br />
==== Second extraction, NaOH doubled ====<br />
Right after this first extraction I wanted to see if increasing the amount of NaOH would increase the yield so 75 g more of NaOH was dissolved into ~750 ml of additional water and added to the mix with 400 ml more of naphtha poured into the bowl which was stirred again for close to 30 minutes and carefully separated from the mix for evaporation. With the amount of NaOH doubled the yield was found to be 50% greater at 1.5 g of alkaloid and because of this I recommend a minimum of 150 g of NaOH for 2 ltr of water when extracting 250-500 g of broken root bark and from 200-250 g of this base per 3+ ltr of water when extracting from 500-1000 g of broken root bark. <br />
==== Third extraction ====<br />
After the first two extractions the root bark was extracted a third time right way. 400 ml of fresh solvent was added to the mix again and stirred for 30 minutes before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation to yield about ~1.25 g on the third try that day, all in just a few hours. From there another 400 ml of naphtha (which is way more than needed on a solubility basis) was added to the brown to black appearing aqueous solution, covered to prevent further evaporation and put away to soak for close to 24 hours.<br />
==== Fourth extraction, long soak ====<br />
After another day the root bark had become far softer and almost slimy instead of stiff root bark as it had been the day before, the NaOH clearly doing its job at breaking the plant material down. The solvent from this forth long term extraction was evaporated to yield another 1.5 g of white extract for a total of close to 5 grams of impure DMT from 500 g of inner root bark from the four extractions spread over 30+ hours from when the root bark was first placed in the bowl. <br />
==== Fifth extraction, another 24 hours and warming ====<br />
For this fifth extraction of the aqueous solution naphtha was added into the bowl and allowed to sit another 24 hours before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation. An hour before pouring it off the mix was warmed to 120&deg; F. and stirred for 20 minutes. Upon evaporation I found that the warming had made quite a difference, even after having extracted the mix four times prior I found that I was able to draw nearly 2 g of alkaloid into the solvent this time which was more than any of the previous single extractions, even greater than the first or second which you would naturally assume would be greater. Part of the reason for this might be that the root bark had soaked in the basified solution longer releasing more alkaloid to the water and also part due to both the basified mix and solvent being warm but in any case the draw was highest on the fifth extraction of the solution bringing the total net up to ~6.5 g with more left in the root bark to get out, all from 500 g of inner root bark. <br />
==== Sixth extraction, more heat caused problems ====<br />
A sixth and last extraction was performed to the mix by pouring 500 ml of fresh naphtha back into the bowl, stirring for a few minutes and then heating the aqueous solution under the naphtha to 130&deg; F. for an hour, stirring often. The temperature of the naphtha floating on top of the basified solution was measured to be 10-15 degrees cooler than the basified mix below it due to what I assume was being caused by cooling as the solvent evaporated off the top, even though a fairly slow rate of evaporation. After an hour at 130&deg; F. the warm naphtha was poured off for rapid fan evaporation in the large flat glass pan which yielded close to 2 g of yellowish extract (only becoming yellow after solidifying, clear until then) but this time upon cooling did not firm up very quickly and even after 8 hours was a very soft sticky extract which was obviously mostly DMT as indicated by both smell and crystalline formations but would not dry into a firm wax-like substance very quickly due to what I believe might be fatty impurities released from the root bark when heated too far in the base solution.<br />
==== Extraction advice; soak longer, extract more with less work ====<br />
Instead of all of the multiple extractions one after the other you could save yourself some work by just throwing 500 g of broken pieces of root bark into 2 ltr of water with 200 g of NaOH dissolved into the water and then pour in 750 ml of naphtha and set the whole container aside for three days, stirring just once a day for 20 minutes at a time. After three days the solvent from a single draw of the aqueous mix should contain far more alkaloid, maybe has high as two thirds the total amount I had pulled out in four separate draws done over 24 hours. Obviously, even after letting the mix sit for three days and a very successful first big pull of the alkaloid from the mix you will need to re-extract the aqueous solution with more naphtha at least three times to get the bulk of the alkaloid out but then you could probably still continue extracting the mix a half dozen times or more and still get more of the alkaloid out each time, although ever diminishing returns. You just have to decide how much you want to get out of the mix before considering it a waste of time or solvent to continue working at it. <br />
==== Notes on separating the naphtha from the aqueous mix ====<br />
When separating the naphtha from the NaOH/water/root you may need to first pour the solvent off the top of the mix into a large measuring cup allowing some of the dark basified water to come over with it so that you can more easily pour the solvent off using the small spout on the measuring cup because when pouring the solvent out of a bowl it is difficult to control what pours out. <br />
==== To warm or not to warm the basified mix of root bark ====<br />
Although the majority of the alkaloid had been extracted at room temperature for this extraction I found that the amount of alkaloid extracted is greater when the mix is warmed up to 100&deg; F. Whether it is a good idea to warm highly basified DMT containing plant material I do not know. Although the yield was greater in a shorter amount of time on that last draw at over 130&deg; F. the extract was different, although clear before complete evaporation of the naphtha it turned a yellow color and remained as a syrup-like liquid for two days, although which took days to begin to crystalize yet it appears to be fairly high percentage DMT by both smell and appearance when it does crystalize. Perhaps heating the mix allows plant fats to come over which did not do so before? Perhaps Not being any kind of a chemist I do not know the answer to this but I can accurately report on what I observed which is all this tech really is, a report.<br />
<br />
When soaking the root bark in the warmed solution be sure to periodically check the temperature to make sure the solution does not go over 120&deg; F. or you might get a lot of the gummy impurities in the extract which showed up when I did so. Even though I am recommending 100&deg; F. and suggesting an upper limit of 120&deg; F. even 100&deg; F might be too warm if over a long enough period of time causing some of the gummy substance I had observed coming over into the solvent at ~130&deg;+ to be extracted. To assure this substance does not extract along with the alkaloid it might be better to just leave the solution at normal room temperatures while soaking the bark in the aqueous mix for 72+ hours and only raise the solution to 120&deg; F. for an hour prior to pouring the solvent off for evaporation. <br />
<br />
If you decide to heat your basified mix with naphtha in it for hours to days as the root bark is broken down by the NaOH I would cover the container with kitchen plastic wrap or something to slow the evaporation of the naphtha. After 48 hours the root bark is broken down pretty good by the lye to where it becomes fairly soft and extracts well but if you are using powdered root bark I do not believe it would be necessary to soak the bark for that long a period of time at all, probably just an hour or more should be enough to chemically break the powder itself down further for a higher extraction yield. <br />
<br />
There is a report that DMT will break down in solution over time, more easily if at high pH. While I have not verified this report I did get a runny extra<br />
== Reference ==<br />
<references/><br />
[[Category:Extraction Tek]]</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Lazyman%27s_tekLazyman's tek2009-02-17T23:49:57Z<p>I*i*b: Small capitalisation edit</p>
<hr />
<div>{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Lazyman's Tek<ref>The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark - 10th October 2006[http://www.entheogen.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9217]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}<br />
==The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark by Vortex==<br />
===A report and guide for a new way of extracting MHRB===<br />
__TOC__<br />
====Extraction Time====<br />
* 1 g in 2.5 hrs<br />
* 4 g in 7 hr<br />
* 7.5 g total @ 48 hrs<br />
====Equipment====<br />
* 5 ltr ceramic mixing bowl<br />
* Potato masher<br />
* 2000 ml measuring cup<br />
* Large flat glass baking pan<br />
* Fan<br />
* VM&P [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naptha Naphtha]; hardware store<br />
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_hydroxide NaOH sodium hydroxide]; online auction, often listed as Red Devil Lye<br />
=== Foreword ===<br />
This process is much simpler than all of the other DMT extraction teks for Mimosa Hostilis root bark. All you need to do is throw pieces of root bark into water which has had a measured amount of NaOH dissolved into it, wait an hour, add naphtha, stir for a few minutes and then pour the naphtha off into a collection container for evaporation. In essence that is all there is to this tek. No need to fuss with acidifying the root bark for a defat, no pH papers needed, no separatory funnel, nothing fancy yet this is a very effective technique with higher yields than any other method out there yet.<br />
<br />
Here is a more detailed explanation of the extraction method using a half kilo of root bark:<br />
<br />
Break 400-500 g of Mimosa hostilis root bark, whether inner, outer or whole root into small enough pieces all of it will fit into a large ceramic or stainless steel mixing bowl with enough room left over to only fill the bowl half way to the top. Next, completely dissolve 200 g of NaOH into 2000-3000 ml of tap water and add to the root bark. <br />
<br />
Wait an hour for the lye/sodium hydroxide to soften up the root bark and then using a stainless steel potato masher stir and mash the base adjusted water into the pieces of root bark for 20-30 minutes and then pour in 250+ ml of naphtha into the bowl and mix for another 20-30 minutes. After you are done mixing the root bark let it sit for a few minutes so that any emulsion which might have stirred up into the solvent to settle out and then just pour the majority of the solvent off of the top of the basified aqueous mix into a large flat glass baking pan and evaporate with a fan blowing air across the top of the fluid to net 600-1000 mg of alkaloid in just a few hours. <br />
<br />
Is there any easier process to extract and isolate that much alkaloid in two to three hours from a pound of root bark? Although the initial yield will be much higher if extracting powdered root bark which takes much less time, whole or broken root bark can also provide high yields if you wait two or three days for the hard strips of bark to turn into a mush as the NaOH breaks it down further and further over time in the basified solution for a higher extraction yield. If waiting 24 hours and performing a single extraction the broken root bark the basified aqueous mix will still need to be extracted over again three or more times to get more of the DMT alkaloid out. That's it, a very simple process with yields others have reported to be much higher than the more often used A/B or acid to base teks. With dried Mimosa hostilis root bark the DMT is already in the form of a salt as is and there are so little plant fats many people simply do not bother with a defat cycle so going strait to base chemical works out very well with this material.<br />
==== Dry defat without acid ====<br />
Although Mimosa Hostilis root bark extracts fairly cleanly with minimal plant fats if you want to remove what little of it there is you can do so without adding an acid to the powder with water by just mixing the dry (no H20) root bark powder into enough naphtha to allow all of the powder to be freely stirred up into the fluid for a few minutes and then filtered out of the naphtha which is then discarded. For an extreme defat heat the naphtha to near its boiling point and then stir the powder into it but be sure to pour off every drop of naphtha you can when done and throw that naphtha away, you should not use it for anything more in the process. Once you are done with the solvent defat the root bark powder is then dumped into the basified mix, as is and wet with naphtha if you like, or after drying. No harm adding root bark with a little naphtha still soaked into it from the defat, you are just going to end up pouring more naphtha in anyway. This "dry" defat without water works very well to remove what fats there are but is not really needed if extracting the plant material at room temperature. <br />
=== Step by step guide for the above using a pound of root bark ===<br />
If you want to use more or less root bark fraction or multiply out everything specified in this tech for smaller or larger amounts:<br />
# Break a pound or 454 g of dried of Mimosa Hostilis root bark into small pieces so that no piece is longer than three inches allowing them to all nicely fit into the bottom of a large 5 liter mixing bowl with lots of extra room left over and set to the side.<br />
# Prepare some basified water by fully dissolving 200 g (~13 measured tablespoons full) of NaOH powder into 2 ltr of tap water in a large measuring cup. <br />
# Add the basified water you just made to the bowl of broken root bark, stir for a few minutes and set aside for two or more hours (longer is better). <br />
# After soaking the root bark in high pH NaOH adjusted water (which is near a pH of 13.5 or more) for a couple of hours or more take a stainless steel potato masher and start mashing the broken root as best you can in the basified water for 20-30 minutes (longer is better). <br />
# After you are done mashing the root bark for a few minutes (which will still be fairly hard if only soaking 2 hours) then add 250-400 ml of clean room temperature naphtha (more makes separation from the soup easier) and stir the solvent into the aqueous mix for 20-30 minutes (longer is better). <br />
# After mixing the naphtha into the bowl pour as much of the solvent as you can easily get off of the top of the aqueous mix (naphtha floats on top in water as a distinct layer) into another container, leaving all of the dark soup behind which will be extracted over again later. Be sure not to allow any of the dark water or any of the bubbly emulsion which may have formed in the solvent to go out with it, you just want clear solvent now leaving everything else behind in the bowl. '''Note:''' If you have so much emulsion that the solvent is half filled with it wait a few minutes to an hour for it to settle out so you can get more of the solvent out. <br />
# Take all of the clear naphtha without any water or bubbles in it you have carefully separated from the basified mix of water and root bark and pour all of it into as large a flat glass container you can find for evaporation. Using a fan to blow air across the top of the fluid will help speed the rate of evaporation several fold faster. <br />
# After all of the naphtha has been evaporated you will find small white DMT bumps of extract stuck to the glass which can be scraped off with a flat blade. If you also see some shiny clear film on the glass it is best to wait until they completely solidify into a white deposit of DMT before scraping off together with the larger white clumps.<br />
=== Extraction notes ===<br />
When this extraction process was first tried with inner root bark 1.0 g of very white alkaloid without discernable fat impurities was extracted from beginning to end in just 2 and a half hours and that includes the time to fan evaporate the naphtha in a broad flat glass pan. Of course, the aqueous mix of root bark needs to be extracted over to get more of the alkaloid out of the mix but you can get plenty of DMT for unspecified uses in a short amount of time this way with a minimal amount of elbow grease and time.<br />
==== Soaking the root bark in basified water ====<br />
The broken inner root bark was soaked in 2 ltr of water with 75 g of NaOH dissolved into it for 1 hour before trying to mash the root bark in the basified water with a potato masher. The bark almost immediately became a dark black color and the water soon after became very dark brown colored which after 30 minutes of working the root bark with a masher started to appear more black than brown. <br />
==== The first extraction cycle ====<br />
After that 400 ml of naphtha was poured into the aqueous basified mix which was then stirred for 30 minutes with a potato masher so that the solvent would absorb the alkaloid released from the root bark by the high pH water. I like to use 300-400 ml of solvent per extraction to make separation from the basified portion of the mix easier. Then the naphtha was carefully and slowly poured off the top of the aqueous mix into another container for full evaporation to net a full gram of white alkaloid from 500 g of inner Mimosa Hostilis root bark without powdering it. <br />
==== Second extraction, NaOH doubled ====<br />
Right after this first extraction I wanted to see if increasing the amount of NaOH would increase the yield so 75 g more of NaOH was dissolved into ~750 ml of additional water and added to the mix with 400 ml more of naphtha poured into the bowl which was stirred again for close to 30 minutes and carefully separated from the mix for evaporation. With the amount of NaOH doubled the yield was found to be 50% greater at 1.5 g of alkaloid and because of this I recommend a minimum of 150 g of NaOH for 2 ltr of water when extracting 250-500 g of broken root bark and from 200-250 g of this base per 3+ ltr of water when extracting from 500-1000 g of broken root bark. <br />
==== Third extraction ====<br />
After the first two extractions the root bark was extracted a third time right way. 400 ml of fresh solvent was added to the mix again and stirred for 30 minutes before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation to yield about ~1.25 g on the third try that day, all in just a few hours. From there another 400 ml of naphtha (which is way more than needed on a solubility basis) was added to the brown to black appearing aqueous solution, covered to prevent further evaporation and put away to soak for close to 24 hours.<br />
==== Fourth extraction, long soak ====<br />
After another day the root bark had become far softer and almost slimy instead of stiff root bark as it had been the day before, the NaOH clearly doing its job at breaking the plant material down. The solvent from this forth long term extraction was evaporated to yield another 1.5 g of white extract for a total of close to 5 grams of impure DMT from 500 g of inner root bark from the four extractions spread over 30+ hours from when the root bark was first placed in the bowl. <br />
==== Fifth extraction, another 24 hours and warming ====<br />
For this fifth extraction of the aqueous solution naphtha was added into the bowl and allowed to sit another 24 hours before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation. An hour before pouring it off the mix was warmed to 120&deg; F. and stirred for 20 minutes. Upon evaporation I found that the warming had made quite a difference, even after having extracted the mix four times prior I found that I was able to draw nearly 2 g of alkaloid into the solvent this time which was more than any of the previous single extractions, even greater than the first or second which you would naturally assume would be greater. Part of the reason for this might be that the root bark had soaked in the basified solution longer releasing more alkaloid to the water and also part due to both the basified mix and solvent being warm but in any case the draw was highest on the fifth extraction of the solution bringing the total net up to ~6.5 g with more left in the root bark to get out, all from 500 g of inner root bark. <br />
==== Sixth extraction, more heat caused problems ====<br />
A sixth and last extraction was performed to the mix by pouring 500 ml of fresh naphtha back into the bowl, stirring for a few minutes and then heating the aqueous solution under the naphtha to 130&deg; F. for an hour, stirring often. The temperature of the naphtha floating on top of the basified solution was measured to be 10-15 degrees cooler than the basified mix below it due to what I assume was being caused by cooling as the solvent evaporated off the top, even though a fairly slow rate of evaporation. After an hour at 130&deg; F. the warm naphtha was poured off for rapid fan evaporation in the large flat glass pan which yielded close to 2 g of yellowish extract (only becoming yellow after solidifying, clear until then) but this time upon cooling did not firm up very quickly and even after 8 hours was a very soft sticky extract which was obviously mostly DMT as indicated by both smell and crystalline formations but would not dry into a firm wax-like substance very quickly due to what I believe might be fatty impurities released from the root bark when heated too far in the base solution.<br />
==== Extraction advice; soak longer, extract more with less work ====<br />
Instead of all of the multiple extractions one after the other you could save yourself some work by just throwing 500 g of broken pieces of root bark into 2 ltr of water with 200 g of NaOH dissolved into the water and then pour in 750 ml of naphtha and set the whole container aside for three days, stirring just once a day for 20 minutes at a time. After three days the solvent from a single draw of the aqueous mix should contain far more alkaloid, maybe has high as two thirds the total amount I had pulled out in four separate draws done over 24 hours. Obviously, even after letting the mix sit for three days and a very successful first big pull of the alkaloid from the mix you will need to re-extract the aqueous solution with more naphtha at least three times to get the bulk of the alkaloid out but then you could probably still continue extracting the mix a half dozen times or more and still get more of the alkaloid out each time, although ever diminishing returns. You just have to decide how much you want to get out of the mix before considering it a waste of time or solvent to continue working at it. <br />
==== Notes on separating the naphtha from the aqueous mix ====<br />
When separating the naphtha from the NaOH/water/root you may need to first pour the solvent off the top of the mix into a large measuring cup allowing some of the dark basified water to come over with it so that you can more easily pour the solvent off using the small spout on the measuring cup because when pouring the solvent out of a bowl it is difficult to control what pours out. <br />
==== To warm or not to warm the basified mix of root bark ====<br />
Although the majority of the alkaloid had been extracted at room temperature for this extraction I found that the amount of alkaloid extracted is greater when the mix is warmed up to 100&deg; F. Whether it is a good idea to warm highly basified DMT containing plant material I do not know. Although the yield was greater in a shorter amount of time on that last draw at over 130&deg; F. the extract was different, although clear before complete evaporation of the naphtha it turned a yellow color and remained as a syrup-like liquid for two days, although which took days to begin to crystalize yet it appears to be fairly high percentage DMT by both smell and appearance when it does crystalize. Perhaps heating the mix allows plant fats to come over which did not do so before? Perhaps Not being any kind of a chemist I do not know the answer to this but I can accurately report on what I observed which is all this tech really is, a report.<br />
<br />
When soaking the root bark in the warmed solution be sure to periodically check the temperature to make sure the solution does not go over 120&deg; F. or you might get a lot of the gummy impurities in the extract which showed up when I did so. Even though I am recommending 100&deg; F. and suggesting an upper limit of 120&deg; F. even 100&deg; F might be too warm if over a long enough period of time causing some of the gummy substance I had observed coming over into the solvent at ~130&deg;+ to be extracted. To assure this substance does not extract along with the alkaloid it might be better to just leave the solution at normal room temperatures while soaking the bark in the aqueous mix for 72+ hours and only raise the solution to 120&deg; F. for an hour prior to pouring the solvent off for evaporation. <br />
<br />
If you decide to heat your basified mix with naphtha in it for hours to days as the root bark is broken down by the NaOH I would cover the container with kitchen plastic wrap or something to slow the evaporation of the naphtha. After 48 hours the root bark is broken down pretty good by the lye to where it becomes fairly soft and extracts well but if you are using powdered root bark I do not believe it would be necessary to soak the bark for that long a period of time at all, probably just an hour or more should be enough to chemically break the powder itself down further for a higher extraction yield. <br />
<br />
There is a report that DMT will break down in solution over time, more easily if at high pH. While I have not verified this report I did get a runny extra<br />
== Reference ==<br />
<references/><br />
[[Category:Extraction Tek]]</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Lazyman%27s_tekLazyman's tek2009-02-17T23:49:23Z<p>I*i*b: Cleaned up abbreviations and capitalisation a bit</p>
<hr />
<div>{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Lazyman's Tek<ref>The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark - 10th October 2006[http://www.entheogen.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9217]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}<br />
==The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark by Vortex==<br />
===A report and guide for a new way of extracting MHRB===<br />
__TOC__<br />
====Extraction Time====<br />
* 1 g in 2.5 hrs<br />
* 4 g in 7 hr<br />
* 7.5 g total @ 48 hrs<br />
====Equipment====<br />
* 5 Ltr ceramic mixing bowl<br />
* Potato masher<br />
* 2000 ml measuring cup<br />
* Large flat glass baking pan<br />
* Fan<br />
* VM&P [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naptha Naphtha]; hardware store<br />
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_hydroxide NaOH sodium hydroxide]; online auction, often listed as Red Devil Lye<br />
=== Foreword ===<br />
This process is much simpler than all of the other DMT extraction teks for Mimosa Hostilis root bark. All you need to do is throw pieces of root bark into water which has had a measured amount of NaOH dissolved into it, wait an hour, add naphtha, stir for a few minutes and then pour the naphtha off into a collection container for evaporation. In essence that is all there is to this tek. No need to fuss with acidifying the root bark for a defat, no pH papers needed, no separatory funnel, nothing fancy yet this is a very effective technique with higher yields than any other method out there yet.<br />
<br />
Here is a more detailed explanation of the extraction method using a half kilo of root bark:<br />
<br />
Break 400-500 g of Mimosa hostilis root bark, whether inner, outer or whole root into small enough pieces all of it will fit into a large ceramic or stainless steel mixing bowl with enough room left over to only fill the bowl half way to the top. Next, completely dissolve 200 g of NaOH into 2000-3000 ml of tap water and add to the root bark. <br />
<br />
Wait an hour for the lye/sodium hydroxide to soften up the root bark and then using a stainless steel potato masher stir and mash the base adjusted water into the pieces of root bark for 20-30 minutes and then pour in 250+ ml of naphtha into the bowl and mix for another 20-30 minutes. After you are done mixing the root bark let it sit for a few minutes so that any emulsion which might have stirred up into the solvent to settle out and then just pour the majority of the solvent off of the top of the basified aqueous mix into a large flat glass baking pan and evaporate with a fan blowing air across the top of the fluid to net 600-1000 mg of alkaloid in just a few hours. <br />
<br />
Is there any easier process to extract and isolate that much alkaloid in two to three hours from a pound of root bark? Although the initial yield will be much higher if extracting powdered root bark which takes much less time, whole or broken root bark can also provide high yields if you wait two or three days for the hard strips of bark to turn into a mush as the NaOH breaks it down further and further over time in the basified solution for a higher extraction yield. If waiting 24 hours and performing a single extraction the broken root bark the basified aqueous mix will still need to be extracted over again three or more times to get more of the DMT alkaloid out. That's it, a very simple process with yields others have reported to be much higher than the more often used A/B or acid to base teks. With dried Mimosa hostilis root bark the DMT is already in the form of a salt as is and there are so little plant fats many people simply do not bother with a defat cycle so going strait to base chemical works out very well with this material.<br />
==== Dry defat without acid ====<br />
Although Mimosa Hostilis root bark extracts fairly cleanly with minimal plant fats if you want to remove what little of it there is you can do so without adding an acid to the powder with water by just mixing the dry (no H20) root bark powder into enough naphtha to allow all of the powder to be freely stirred up into the fluid for a few minutes and then filtered out of the naphtha which is then discarded. For an extreme defat heat the naphtha to near its boiling point and then stir the powder into it but be sure to pour off every drop of naphtha you can when done and throw that naphtha away, you should not use it for anything more in the process. Once you are done with the solvent defat the root bark powder is then dumped into the basified mix, as is and wet with naphtha if you like, or after drying. No harm adding root bark with a little naphtha still soaked into it from the defat, you are just going to end up pouring more naphtha in anyway. This "dry" defat without water works very well to remove what fats there are but is not really needed if extracting the plant material at room temperature. <br />
=== Step by step guide for the above using a pound of root bark ===<br />
If you want to use more or less root bark fraction or multiply out everything specified in this tech for smaller or larger amounts:<br />
# Break a pound or 454 g of dried of Mimosa Hostilis root bark into small pieces so that no piece is longer than three inches allowing them to all nicely fit into the bottom of a large 5 liter mixing bowl with lots of extra room left over and set to the side.<br />
# Prepare some basified water by fully dissolving 200 g (~13 measured tablespoons full) of NaOH powder into 2 ltr of tap water in a large measuring cup. <br />
# Add the basified water you just made to the bowl of broken root bark, stir for a few minutes and set aside for two or more hours (longer is better). <br />
# After soaking the root bark in high pH NaOH adjusted water (which is near a pH of 13.5 or more) for a couple of hours or more take a stainless steel potato masher and start mashing the broken root as best you can in the basified water for 20-30 minutes (longer is better). <br />
# After you are done mashing the root bark for a few minutes (which will still be fairly hard if only soaking 2 hours) then add 250-400 ml of clean room temperature naphtha (more makes separation from the soup easier) and stir the solvent into the aqueous mix for 20-30 minutes (longer is better). <br />
# After mixing the naphtha into the bowl pour as much of the solvent as you can easily get off of the top of the aqueous mix (naphtha floats on top in water as a distinct layer) into another container, leaving all of the dark soup behind which will be extracted over again later. Be sure not to allow any of the dark water or any of the bubbly emulsion which may have formed in the solvent to go out with it, you just want clear solvent now leaving everything else behind in the bowl. '''Note:''' If you have so much emulsion that the solvent is half filled with it wait a few minutes to an hour for it to settle out so you can get more of the solvent out. <br />
# Take all of the clear naphtha without any water or bubbles in it you have carefully separated from the basified mix of water and root bark and pour all of it into as large a flat glass container you can find for evaporation. Using a fan to blow air across the top of the fluid will help speed the rate of evaporation several fold faster. <br />
# After all of the naphtha has been evaporated you will find small white DMT bumps of extract stuck to the glass which can be scraped off with a flat blade. If you also see some shiny clear film on the glass it is best to wait until they completely solidify into a white deposit of DMT before scraping off together with the larger white clumps.<br />
=== Extraction notes ===<br />
When this extraction process was first tried with inner root bark 1.0 g of very white alkaloid without discernable fat impurities was extracted from beginning to end in just 2 and a half hours and that includes the time to fan evaporate the naphtha in a broad flat glass pan. Of course, the aqueous mix of root bark needs to be extracted over to get more of the alkaloid out of the mix but you can get plenty of DMT for unspecified uses in a short amount of time this way with a minimal amount of elbow grease and time.<br />
==== Soaking the root bark in basified water ====<br />
The broken inner root bark was soaked in 2 ltr of water with 75 g of NaOH dissolved into it for 1 hour before trying to mash the root bark in the basified water with a potato masher. The bark almost immediately became a dark black color and the water soon after became very dark brown colored which after 30 minutes of working the root bark with a masher started to appear more black than brown. <br />
==== The first extraction cycle ====<br />
After that 400 ml of naphtha was poured into the aqueous basified mix which was then stirred for 30 minutes with a potato masher so that the solvent would absorb the alkaloid released from the root bark by the high pH water. I like to use 300-400 ml of solvent per extraction to make separation from the basified portion of the mix easier. Then the naphtha was carefully and slowly poured off the top of the aqueous mix into another container for full evaporation to net a full gram of white alkaloid from 500 g of inner Mimosa Hostilis root bark without powdering it. <br />
==== Second extraction, NaOH doubled ====<br />
Right after this first extraction I wanted to see if increasing the amount of NaOH would increase the yield so 75 g more of NaOH was dissolved into ~750 ml of additional water and added to the mix with 400 ml more of naphtha poured into the bowl which was stirred again for close to 30 minutes and carefully separated from the mix for evaporation. With the amount of NaOH doubled the yield was found to be 50% greater at 1.5 g of alkaloid and because of this I recommend a minimum of 150 g of NaOH for 2 ltr of water when extracting 250-500 g of broken root bark and from 200-250 g of this base per 3+ ltr of water when extracting from 500-1000 g of broken root bark. <br />
==== Third extraction ====<br />
After the first two extractions the root bark was extracted a third time right way. 400 ml of fresh solvent was added to the mix again and stirred for 30 minutes before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation to yield about ~1.25 g on the third try that day, all in just a few hours. From there another 400 ml of naphtha (which is way more than needed on a solubility basis) was added to the brown to black appearing aqueous solution, covered to prevent further evaporation and put away to soak for close to 24 hours.<br />
==== Fourth extraction, long soak ====<br />
After another day the root bark had become far softer and almost slimy instead of stiff root bark as it had been the day before, the NaOH clearly doing its job at breaking the plant material down. The solvent from this forth long term extraction was evaporated to yield another 1.5 g of white extract for a total of close to 5 grams of impure DMT from 500 g of inner root bark from the four extractions spread over 30+ hours from when the root bark was first placed in the bowl. <br />
==== Fifth extraction, another 24 hours and warming ====<br />
For this fifth extraction of the aqueous solution naphtha was added into the bowl and allowed to sit another 24 hours before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation. An hour before pouring it off the mix was warmed to 120&deg; F. and stirred for 20 minutes. Upon evaporation I found that the warming had made quite a difference, even after having extracted the mix four times prior I found that I was able to draw nearly 2 g of alkaloid into the solvent this time which was more than any of the previous single extractions, even greater than the first or second which you would naturally assume would be greater. Part of the reason for this might be that the root bark had soaked in the basified solution longer releasing more alkaloid to the water and also part due to both the basified mix and solvent being warm but in any case the draw was highest on the fifth extraction of the solution bringing the total net up to ~6.5 g with more left in the root bark to get out, all from 500 g of inner root bark. <br />
==== Sixth extraction, more heat caused problems ====<br />
A sixth and last extraction was performed to the mix by pouring 500 ml of fresh naphtha back into the bowl, stirring for a few minutes and then heating the aqueous solution under the naphtha to 130&deg; F. for an hour, stirring often. The temperature of the naphtha floating on top of the basified solution was measured to be 10-15 degrees cooler than the basified mix below it due to what I assume was being caused by cooling as the solvent evaporated off the top, even though a fairly slow rate of evaporation. After an hour at 130&deg; F. the warm naphtha was poured off for rapid fan evaporation in the large flat glass pan which yielded close to 2 g of yellowish extract (only becoming yellow after solidifying, clear until then) but this time upon cooling did not firm up very quickly and even after 8 hours was a very soft sticky extract which was obviously mostly DMT as indicated by both smell and crystalline formations but would not dry into a firm wax-like substance very quickly due to what I believe might be fatty impurities released from the root bark when heated too far in the base solution.<br />
==== Extraction advice; soak longer, extract more with less work ====<br />
Instead of all of the multiple extractions one after the other you could save yourself some work by just throwing 500 g of broken pieces of root bark into 2 ltr of water with 200 g of NaOH dissolved into the water and then pour in 750 ml of naphtha and set the whole container aside for three days, stirring just once a day for 20 minutes at a time. After three days the solvent from a single draw of the aqueous mix should contain far more alkaloid, maybe has high as two thirds the total amount I had pulled out in four separate draws done over 24 hours. Obviously, even after letting the mix sit for three days and a very successful first big pull of the alkaloid from the mix you will need to re-extract the aqueous solution with more naphtha at least three times to get the bulk of the alkaloid out but then you could probably still continue extracting the mix a half dozen times or more and still get more of the alkaloid out each time, although ever diminishing returns. You just have to decide how much you want to get out of the mix before considering it a waste of time or solvent to continue working at it. <br />
==== Notes on separating the naphtha from the aqueous mix ====<br />
When separating the naphtha from the NaOH/water/root you may need to first pour the solvent off the top of the mix into a large measuring cup allowing some of the dark basified water to come over with it so that you can more easily pour the solvent off using the small spout on the measuring cup because when pouring the solvent out of a bowl it is difficult to control what pours out. <br />
==== To warm or not to warm the basified mix of root bark ====<br />
Although the majority of the alkaloid had been extracted at room temperature for this extraction I found that the amount of alkaloid extracted is greater when the mix is warmed up to 100&deg; F. Whether it is a good idea to warm highly basified DMT containing plant material I do not know. Although the yield was greater in a shorter amount of time on that last draw at over 130&deg; F. the extract was different, although clear before complete evaporation of the naphtha it turned a yellow color and remained as a syrup-like liquid for two days, although which took days to begin to crystalize yet it appears to be fairly high percentage DMT by both smell and appearance when it does crystalize. Perhaps heating the mix allows plant fats to come over which did not do so before? Perhaps Not being any kind of a chemist I do not know the answer to this but I can accurately report on what I observed which is all this tech really is, a report.<br />
<br />
When soaking the root bark in the warmed solution be sure to periodically check the temperature to make sure the solution does not go over 120&deg; F. or you might get a lot of the gummy impurities in the extract which showed up when I did so. Even though I am recommending 100&deg; F. and suggesting an upper limit of 120&deg; F. even 100&deg; F might be too warm if over a long enough period of time causing some of the gummy substance I had observed coming over into the solvent at ~130&deg;+ to be extracted. To assure this substance does not extract along with the alkaloid it might be better to just leave the solution at normal room temperatures while soaking the bark in the aqueous mix for 72+ hours and only raise the solution to 120&deg; F. for an hour prior to pouring the solvent off for evaporation. <br />
<br />
If you decide to heat your basified mix with naphtha in it for hours to days as the root bark is broken down by the NaOH I would cover the container with kitchen plastic wrap or something to slow the evaporation of the naphtha. After 48 hours the root bark is broken down pretty good by the lye to where it becomes fairly soft and extracts well but if you are using powdered root bark I do not believe it would be necessary to soak the bark for that long a period of time at all, probably just an hour or more should be enough to chemically break the powder itself down further for a higher extraction yield. <br />
<br />
There is a report that DMT will break down in solution over time, more easily if at high pH. While I have not verified this report I did get a runny extra<br />
== Reference ==<br />
<references/><br />
[[Category:Extraction Tek]]</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Lazyman%27s_tekLazyman's tek2009-02-17T22:03:14Z<p>I*i*b: A little bit of re-formatting to make paragraphs more readable</p>
<hr />
<div>{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Lazyman's Tek<ref>The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark - 10th October 2006[http://www.entheogen.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9217]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}<br />
==The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark by Vortex==<br />
===A report and guide for a new way of extracting MHRB===<br />
__TOC__<br />
====Extraction Time====<br />
* 1 gm in 2.5 hrs<br />
* 4 gm in 7 hr<br />
* 7.5 g total @48 hrs<br />
====Equipment====<br />
* 5 Litre ceramic mixing bowl<br />
* Potato masher<br />
* 2000 ml measuring cup<br />
* Large flat glass baking pan<br />
* Fan<br />
* VM&P [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naptha Naphtha]; hardware store<br />
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_hydroxide NaOH sodium hydroxide]; online auction, often listed as Red Devil Lye<br />
=== Foreword ===<br />
This process is much simpler than all of the other DMT extraction teks for Mimosa hostilis root bark. All you need to do is throw pieces of root bark into water which has had a measured amount of NaOH/sodium hydroxide dissolved into it, wait an hour, add naphtha, stir for a few minutes and then pour the naphtha off into a collection container for evaporation. In essence that is all there is to this tek. No need to fuss with acidifying the root bark for a defat, no pH papers needed, no separatory funnel, nothing fancy yet this is a very effective technique with higher yields than any other method out there yet.<br />
<br />
Here is a more detailed explanation of the extraction method using a half kilo of root bark:<br />
<br />
Break 400 to 500 grams of Mimosa hostilis root bark, whether inner, outer or whole root into small enough pieces all of it will fit into a large ceramic or stainless steel mixing bowl with enough room left over to only fill the bowl half way to the top. Next, completely dissolve 200 grams of NaOH/sodium hydroxide into 2000-3000 ml of tap water and add to the root bark. <br />
<br />
Wait an hour for the lye/sodium hydroxide to soften up the root bark and then using a stainless steel potato masher stir and mash the base adjusted water into the pieces of root bark for 20-30 minutes and then pour in 250+ ml of naphtha into the bowl and mix for another 20-30 minutes. After you are done mixing the root bark let it sit for a few minutes so that any emulsion which might have stirred up into the solvent to settle out and then just pour the majority of the solvent off of the top of the basified aqueous mix into a large flat glass baking pan and evaporate with a fan blowing air across the top of the fluid to net 600-1000 mg of alkaloid in just a few hours. <br />
<br />
Is there any easier process to extract and isolate that much alkaloid in two to three hours from a pound of root bark? Although the initial yield will be much higher if extracting powdered root bark which takes much less time, whole or broken root bark can also provide high yields if you wait two or three days for the hard strips of bark to turn into a mush as the NaOH breaks it down further and further over time in the basified solution for a higher extraction yield. If waiting 24 hours and performing a single extraction the broken root bark the basified aqueous mix will still need to be extracted over again three or more times to get more of the DMT alkaloid out. That's it, a very simple process with yields others have reported to be much higher than the more often used A-B or acid to base teks. With dried Mimosa hostilis root bark the DMT is already in the form of a salt as is and there are so little plant fats many people simply do not bother with a defat cycle so going strait to base chemical works out very well with this material.<br />
==== Dry defat without acid ====<br />
Although Mimosa hostilis root bark extracts fairly cleanly with minimal plant fats if you want to remove what little of it there is you can do so without adding an acid to the powder with water by just mixing the dry (no H20) root bark powder into enough naphtha to allow all of the powder to be freely stirred up into the fluid for a few minutes and then filtered out of the naphtha which is then discarded. For an extreme defat heat the naphtha to near its boiling point and then stir the powder into it but be sure to pour off every drop of naphtha you can when done and throw that naphtha away, you should not use it for anything more in the process. Once you are done with the solvent defat the root bark powder is then dumped into the basified mix, as is and wet with naphtha if you like, or after drying. No harm adding root bark with a little naphtha still soaked into it from the defat, you are just going to end up pouring more naphtha in anyway. This "dry" defat without water works very well to remove what fats there are but is not really needed if extracting the plant material at room temperature. <br />
=== Step by step guide for the above using a pound of root bark ===<br />
If you want to use more or less root bark fraction or multiply out everything specified in this tech for smaller or larger amounts:<br />
# Break a pound or 454 grams of dried of Mimosa hostilis root bark into small pieces so that no piece is longer than three inches allowing them to all nicely fit into the bottom of a large 5 liter mixing bowl with lots of extra room left over and set to the side.<br />
# Prepare some basified water by fully dissolving 200 grams (~13 measured tablespoons full) of NaOH/sodium hydroxide lye powder into 2 liters of tap water in a large measuring cup. <br />
# Add the basified water you just made to the bowl of broken root bark, stir for a few minutes and set aside for two or more hours (longer is better). <br />
# After soaking the root bark in high pH NaOH adjusted water (which is near a pH of 13.5 or more) for a couple of hours or more take a stainless steel potato masher and start mashing the broken root as best you can in the basified water for 20-30 minutes (longer is better). <br />
# After you are done mashing the root bark for a few minutes (which will still be fairly hard if only soaking 2 hours) then add 250 to 400 ml of clean room temperature naphtha (more makes separation from the soup easier) and stir the solvent into the aqueous mix for 20-30 minutes (longer is better). <br />
# After mixing the naphtha into the bowl pour as much of the solvent as you can easily get off of the top of the aqueous mix (naphtha floats on top in water as a distinct layer) into another container, leaving all of the dark soup behind which will be extracted over again later. Be sure not to allow any of the dark water or any of the bubbly emulsion which may have formed in the solvent to go out with it, you just want clear solvent now leaving everything else behind in the bowl. '''Note:''' If you have so much emulsion that the solvent is half filled with it wait a few minutes to an hour for it to settle out so you can get more of the solvent out. <br />
# Take all of the clear naphtha without any water or bubbles in it you have carefully separated from the basified mix of water and root bark and pour all of it into as large a flat glass container you can find for evaporation. Using a fan to blow air across the top of the fluid will help speed the rate of evaporation several fold faster. <br />
# After all of the naphtha has been evaporated you will find small white DMT bumps of extract stuck to the glass which can be scraped off with a flat blade. If you also see some shiny clear film on the glass it is best to wait until they completely solidify into a white deposit of DMT before scraping off together with the larger white clumps.<br />
=== Extraction notes ===<br />
When this extraction process was first tried with inner root bark 1.0 grams of very white alkaloid without discernable fat impurities was extracted from beginning to end in just 2 and a half hours and that includes the time to fan evaporate the naphtha in a broad flat glass pan. Of course, the aqueous mix of root bark needs to be extracted over to get more of the alkaloid out of the mix but you can get plenty of DMT for unspecified uses in a short amount of time this way with a minimal amount of elbow grease and time.<br />
==== Soaking the root bark in basified water ====<br />
The broken inner root bark was soaked in 2 liters of water with 75 grams of NaOH dissolved into it for 1 hour before trying to mash the root bark in the basified water with a potato masher. The bark almost immediately became a dark black color and the water soon after became very dark brown colored which after 30 minutes of working the root bark with a masher started to appear more black than brown. <br />
==== The first extraction cycle ====<br />
After that 400 ml of naphtha was poured into the aqueous basified mix which was then stirred for 30 minutes with a potato masher so that the solvent would absorb the alkaloid released from the root bark by the high pH water. I like to use 300-400 ml of solvent per extraction to make separation from the basified portion of the mix easier. Then the naphtha was carefully and slowly poured off the top of the aqueous mix into another container for full evaporation to net a full gram of white alkaloid from 500 grams of inner Mimosa hostilis root bark without powdering it. <br />
==== Second extraction, NaOH doubled ====<br />
Right after this first extraction I wanted to see if increasing the amount of NaOH would increase the yield so 75 more grams of sodium hydroxide was dissolved into ~750 ml of additional water and added to the mix with 400 more ml of naphtha poured into the bowl which was stirred again for close to 30 minutes and carefully separated from the mix for evaporation. With the amount of NaOH doubled the yield was found to be 50% greater at 1.5 grams of alkaloid and because of this I recommend a minimum of 150 grams of NaOH for 2 liters of water when extracting 250 to 500 grams of broken root bark and from 200-250 grams of this base per 3+ liters of water when extracting from 500 to 1000 grams of broken root bark. <br />
==== Third extraction ====<br />
After the first two extractions the root bark was extracted a third time right way. 400 ml of fresh solvent was added to the mix again and stirred for 30 minutes before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation to yield about ~1.25 grams on the third try that day, all in just a few hours. From there another 400 ml of naphtha (which is way more than needed on a solubility basis) was added to the brown to black appearing aqueous solution, covered to prevent further evaporation and put away to soak for close to 24 hours.<br />
==== Fourth extraction, long soak ====<br />
After another day the root bark had become far softer and almost slimy instead of stiff root bark as it had been the day before, the NaOH clearly doing its job at breaking the plant material down. The solvent from this forth long term extraction was evaporated to yield another 1.5 grams of white extract for a total of close to 5 grams of impure DMT from 500 grams of inner root bark from the four extractions spread over 30+ hours from when the root bark was first placed in the bowl. <br />
==== Fifth extraction, another 24 hours and warming ====<br />
For this fifth extraction of the aqueous solution naphtha was added into the bowl and allowed to sit another 24 hours before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation. An hour before pouring it off the mix was warmed to 120 degrees F. and stirred for 20 minutes. Upon evaporation I found that the warming had made quite a difference, even after having extracted the mix four times prior I found that I was able to draw nearly 2 grams of alkaloid into the solvent this time which was more than any of the previous single extractions, even greater than the first or second which you would naturally assume would be greater. Part of the reason for this might be that the root bark had soaked in the basified solution longer releasing more alkaloid to the water and also part due to both the basified mix and solvent being warm but in any case the draw was highest on the fifth extraction of the solution bringing the total net up to ~6.5 grams with more left in the root bark to get out, all from 500 grams of inner root bark. <br />
==== Sixth extraction, more heat caused problems ====<br />
A sixth and last extraction was performed to the mix by pouring 500 ml of fresh naphtha back into the bowl, stirring for a few minutes and then heating the aqueous solution under the naphtha to 130 degrees F. for an hour, stirring often. The temperature of the naphtha floating on top of the basified solution was measured to be 10-15 degrees cooler than the basified mix below it due to what I assume was being caused by cooling as the solvent evaporated off the top, even though a fairly slow rate of evaporation. After an hour at 130 F. the warm naphtha was poured off for rapid fan evaporation in the large flat glass pan which yielded close to 2 grams of yellowish extract (only becoming yellow after solidifying, clear until then) but this time upon cooling did not firm up very quickly and even after 8 hours was a very soft sticky extract which was obviously mostly DMT as indicated by both smell and crystalline formations but would not dry into a firm wax-like substance very quickly due to what I believe might be fatty impurities released from the root bark when heated too far in the base solution.<br />
==== Extraction advice; soak longer, extract more with less work ====<br />
Instead of all of the multiple extractions one after the other you could save yourself some work by just throwing 500 grams of broken pieces of root bark into 2 liters of water with 200 grams of NaOH dissolved into the water and then pour in 750 ml of naphtha and set the whole container aside for three days, stirring just once a day for 20 minutes at a time. After three days the solvent from a single draw of the aqueous mix should contain far more alkaloid, maybe has high as two thirds the total amount I had pulled out in four separate draws done over 24 hours. Obviously, even after letting the mix sit for three days and a very successful first big pull of the alkaloid from the mix you will need to re-extract the aqueous solution with more naphtha at least three times to get the bulk of the alkaloid out but then you could probably still continue extracting the mix a half dozen times or more and still get more of the alkaloid out each time, although ever diminishing returns. You just have to decide how much you want to get out of the mix before considering it a waste of time or solvent to continue working at it. <br />
==== Notes on separating the naphtha from the aqueous mix ====<br />
When separating the naphtha from the NaOH/water/root you may need to first pour the solvent off the top of the mix into a large measuring cup allowing some of the dark basified water to come over with it so that you can more easily pour the solvent off using the small spout on the measuring cup because when pouring the solvent out of a bowl it is difficult to control what pours out. <br />
==== To warm or not to warm the basified mix of root bark ====<br />
Although the majority of the alkaloid had been extracted at room temperature for this extraction I found that the amount of alkaloid extracted is greater when the mix is warmed up to 100 degrees F. - Whether it is a good idea to warm highly basified DMT containing plant material I do not know. Although the yield was greater in a shorter amount of time on that last draw at over 130 degrees F. the extract was different, although clear before complete evaporation of the naphtha it turned a yellow color and remained as a syrup-like liquid for two days, although which took days to begin to crystalize yet it appears to be fairly high percentage DMT by both smell and appearance when it does crystalize. Perhaps heating the mix allows plant fats to come over which did not do so before? Perhaps Not being any kind of a chemist I do not know the answer to this but I can accurately report on what I observed which is all this tech really is, a report.<br />
<br />
When soaking the root bark in the warmed solution be sure to periodically check the temperature to make sure the solution does not go over 120 F. or you might get a lot of the gummy impurities in the extract which showed up when I did so. Even though I am recommending 100 degrees F. and suggesting an upper limit of 120 degrees F. even 100 F might be too warm if over a long enough period of time causing some of the gummy substance I had observed coming over into the solvent at ~130+ degrees to be extracted. To assure this substance does not extract along with the alkaloid it might be better to just leave the solution at normal room temperatures while soaking the bark in the aqueous mix for 72+ hours and only raise the solution to 120 degrees F. for an hour prior to pouring the solvent off for evaporation. <br />
<br />
If you decide to heat your basified mix with naphtha in it for hours to days as the root bark is broken down by the NaOH I would cover the container with kitchen plastic wrap or something to slow the evaporation of the naphtha. After 48 hours the root bark is broken down pretty good by the lye to where it becomes fairly soft and extracts well but if you are using powdered root bark I do not believe it would be necessary to soak the bark for that long a period of time at all, probably just an hour or more should be enough to chemically break the powder itself down further for a higher extraction yield. <br />
<br />
There is a report that DMT will break down in solution over time, more easily if at high pH. While I have not verified this report I did get a runny extra<br />
== Reference ==<br />
<references/><br />
[[Category:Extraction Tek]]</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Lazyman%27s_tekLazyman's tek2009-02-17T21:59:20Z<p>I*i*b: Transcribed and marked-up the Lazyman tek. Please give it a check over. Hope I haven't added any errors. First whole doc I've added to the Wiki :)</p>
<hr />
<div>{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Lazyman's Tek<ref>The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark - 10th October 2006[http://www.entheogen.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9217]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}<br />
==The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark by Vortex==<br />
===A report and guide for a new way of extracting MHRB===<br />
__TOC__<br />
====Extraction Time====<br />
* 1 gm in 2.5 hrs<br />
* 4 gm in 7 hr<br />
* 7.5 g total @48 hrs<br />
====Equipment====<br />
* 5 Litre ceramic mixing bowl<br />
* Potato masher<br />
* 2000 ml measuring cup<br />
* Large flat glass baking pan<br />
* Fan<br />
* VM&P [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naptha Naphtha]; hardware store<br />
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_hydroxide NaOH sodium hydroxide]; online auction, often listed as Red Devil Lye<br />
=== Foreword ===<br />
This process is much simpler than all of the other DMT extraction teks for Mimosa hostilis root bark. All you need to do is throw pieces of root bark into water which has had a measured amount of NaOH/sodium hydroxide dissolved into it, wait an hour, add naphtha, stir for a few minutes and then pour the naphtha off into a collection container for evaporation. In essence that is all there is to this tek. No need to fuss with acidifying the root bark for a defat, no pH papers needed, no separatory funnel, nothing fancy yet this is a very effective technique with higher yields than any other method out there yet.<br />
Here is a more detailed explanation of the extraction method using a half kilo of root bark:<br />
Break 400 to 500 grams of Mimosa hostilis root bark, whether inner, outer or whole root into small enough pieces all of it will fit into a large ceramic or stainless steel mixing bowl with enough room left over to only fill the bowl half way to the top. Next, completely dissolve 200 grams of NaOH/sodium hydroxide into 2000-3000 ml of tap water and add to the root bark. <br />
Wait an hour for the lye/sodium hydroxide to soften up the root bark and then using a stainless steel potato masher stir and mash the base adjusted water into the pieces of root bark for 20-30 minutes and then pour in 250+ ml of naphtha into the bowl and mix for another 20-30 minutes. After you are done mixing the root bark let it sit for a few minutes so that any emulsion which might have stirred up into the solvent to settle out and then just pour the majority of the solvent off of the top of the basified aqueous mix into a large flat glass baking pan and evaporate with a fan blowing air across the top of the fluid to net 600-1000 mg of alkaloid in just a few hours. <br />
Is there any easier process to extract and isolate that much alkaloid in two to three hours from a pound of root bark? Although the initial yield will be much higher if extracting powdered root bark which takes much less time, whole or broken root bark can also provide high yields if you wait two or three days for the hard strips of bark to turn into a mush as the NaOH breaks it down further and further over time in the basified solution for a higher extraction yield. If waiting 24 hours and performing a single extraction the broken root bark the basified aqueous mix will still need to be extracted over again three or more times to get more of the DMT alkaloid out. That's it, a very simple process with yields others have reported to be much higher than the more often used A-B or acid to base teks. With dried Mimosa hostilis root bark the DMT is already in the form of a salt as is and there are so little plant fats many people simply do not bother with a defat cycle so going strait to base chemical works out very well with this material.<br />
==== Dry defat without acid ====<br />
Although Mimosa hostilis root bark extracts fairly cleanly with minimal plant fats if you want to remove what little of it there is you can do so without adding an acid to the powder with water by just mixing the dry (no H20) root bark powder into enough naphtha to allow all of the powder to be freely stirred up into the fluid for a few minutes and then filtered out of the naphtha which is then discarded. For an extreme defat heat the naphtha to near its boiling point and then stir the powder into it but be sure to pour off every drop of naphtha you can when done and throw that naphtha away, you should not use it for anything more in the process. Once you are done with the solvent defat the root bark powder is then dumped into the basified mix, as is and wet with naphtha if you like, or after drying. No harm adding root bark with a little naphtha still soaked into it from the defat, you are just going to end up pouring more naphtha in anyway. This "dry" defat without water works very well to remove what fats there are but is not really needed if extracting the plant material at room temperature. <br />
=== Step by step guide for the above using a pound of root bark ===<br />
If you want to use more or less root bark fraction or multiply out everything specified in this tech for smaller or larger amounts:<br />
# Break a pound or 454 grams of dried of Mimosa hostilis root bark into small pieces so that no piece is longer than three inches allowing them to all nicely fit into the bottom of a large 5 liter mixing bowl with lots of extra room left over and set to the side.<br />
# Prepare some basified water by fully dissolving 200 grams (~13 measured tablespoons full) of NaOH/sodium hydroxide lye powder into 2 liters of tap water in a large measuring cup. <br />
# Add the basified water you just made to the bowl of broken root bark, stir for a few minutes and set aside for two or more hours (longer is better). <br />
# After soaking the root bark in high pH NaOH adjusted water (which is near a pH of 13.5 or more) for a couple of hours or more take a stainless steel potato masher and start mashing the broken root as best you can in the basified water for 20-30 minutes (longer is better). <br />
# After you are done mashing the root bark for a few minutes (which will still be fairly hard if only soaking 2 hours) then add 250 to 400 ml of clean room temperature naphtha (more makes separation from the soup easier) and stir the solvent into the aqueous mix for 20-30 minutes (longer is better). <br />
# After mixing the naphtha into the bowl pour as much of the solvent as you can easily get off of the top of the aqueous mix (naphtha floats on top in water as a distinct layer) into another container, leaving all of the dark soup behind which will be extracted over again later. Be sure not to allow any of the dark water or any of the bubbly emulsion which may have formed in the solvent to go out with it, you just want clear solvent now leaving everything else behind in the bowl.<br />
'''Note:''' If you have so much emulsion that the solvent is half filled with it wait a few minutes to an hour for it to settle out so you can get more of the solvent out. <br />
# Take all of the clear naphtha without any water or bubbles in it you have carefully separated from the basified mix of water and root bark and pour all of it into as large a flat glass container you can find for evaporation. Using a fan to blow air across the top of the fluid will help speed the rate of evaporation several fold faster. <br />
# After all of the naphtha has been evaporated you will find small white DMT bumps of extract stuck to the glass which can be scraped off with a flat blade. If you also see some shiny clear film on the glass it is best to wait until they completely solidify into a white deposit of DMT before scraping off together with the larger white clumps.<br />
=== Extraction notes ===<br />
When this extraction process was first tried with inner root bark 1.0 grams of very white alkaloid without discernable fat impurities was extracted from beginning to end in just 2 and a half hours and that includes the time to fan evaporate the naphtha in a broad flat glass pan. Of course, the aqueous mix of root bark needs to be extracted over to get more of the alkaloid out of the mix but you can get plenty of DMT for unspecified uses in a short amount of time this way with a minimal amount of elbow grease and time.<br />
==== Soaking the root bark in basified water ====<br />
The broken inner root bark was soaked in 2 liters of water with 75 grams of NaOH dissolved into it for 1 hour before trying to mash the root bark in the basified water with a potato masher. The bark almost immediately became a dark black color and the water soon after became very dark brown colored which after 30 minutes of working the root bark with a masher started to appear more black than brown. <br />
==== The first extraction cycle ====<br />
After that 400 ml of naphtha was poured into the aqueous basified mix which was then stirred for 30 minutes with a potato masher so that the solvent would absorb the alkaloid released from the root bark by the high pH water. I like to use 300-400 ml of solvent per extraction to make separation from the basified portion of the mix easier. Then the naphtha was carefully and slowly poured off the top of the aqueous mix into another container for full evaporation to net a full gram of white alkaloid from 500 grams of inner Mimosa hostilis root bark without powdering it. <br />
==== Second extraction, NaOH doubled ====<br />
Right after this first extraction I wanted to see if increasing the amount of NaOH would increase the yield so 75 more grams of sodium hydroxide was dissolved into ~750 ml of additional water and added to the mix with 400 more ml of naphtha poured into the bowl which was stirred again for close to 30 minutes and carefully separated from the mix for evaporation. With the amount of NaOH doubled the yield was found to be 50% greater at 1.5 grams of alkaloid and because of this I recommend a minimum of 150 grams of NaOH for 2 liters of water when extracting 250 to 500 grams of broken root bark and from 200-250 grams of this base per 3+ liters of water when extracting from 500 to 1000 grams of broken root bark. <br />
==== Third extraction ====<br />
After the first two extractions the root bark was extracted a third time right way. 400 ml of fresh solvent was added to the mix again and stirred for 30 minutes before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation to yield about ~1.25 grams on the third try that day, all in just a few hours. From there another 400 ml of naphtha (which is way more than needed on a solubility basis) was added to the brown to black appearing aqueous solution, covered to prevent further evaporation and put away to soak for close to 24 hours.<br />
==== Fourth extraction, long soak ====<br />
After another day the root bark had become far softer and almost slimy instead of stiff root bark as it had been the day before, the NaOH clearly doing its job at breaking the plant material down. The solvent from this forth long term extraction was evaporated to yield another 1.5 grams of white extract for a total of close to 5 grams of impure DMT from 500 grams of inner root bark from the four extractions spread over 30+ hours from when the root bark was first placed in the bowl. <br />
==== Fifth extraction, another 24 hours and warming ====<br />
For this fifth extraction of the aqueous solution naphtha was added into the bowl and allowed to sit another 24 hours before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation. An hour before pouring it off the mix was warmed to 120 degrees F. and stirred for 20 minutes. Upon evaporation I found that the warming had made quite a difference, even after having extracted the mix four times prior I found that I was able to draw nearly 2 grams of alkaloid into the solvent this time which was more than any of the previous single extractions, even greater than the first or second which you would naturally assume would be greater. Part of the reason for this might be that the root bark had soaked in the basified solution longer releasing more alkaloid to the water and also part due to both the basified mix and solvent being warm but in any case the draw was highest on the fifth extraction of the solution bringing the total net up to ~6.5 grams with more left in the root bark to get out, all from 500 grams of inner root bark. <br />
==== Sixth extraction, more heat caused problems ====<br />
A sixth and last extraction was performed to the mix by pouring 500 ml of fresh naphtha back into the bowl, stirring for a few minutes and then heating the aqueous solution under the naphtha to 130 degrees F. for an hour, stirring often. The temperature of the naphtha floating on top of the basified solution was measured to be 10-15 degrees cooler than the basified mix below it due to what I assume was being caused by cooling as the solvent evaporated off the top, even though a fairly slow rate of evaporation. After an hour at 130 F. the warm naphtha was poured off for rapid fan evaporation in the large flat glass pan which yielded close to 2 grams of yellowish extract (only becoming yellow after solidifying, clear until then) but this time upon cooling did not firm up very quickly and even after 8 hours was a very soft sticky extract which was obviously mostly DMT as indicated by both smell and crystalline formations but would not dry into a firm wax-like substance very quickly due to what I believe might be fatty impurities released from the root bark when heated too far in the base solution.<br />
==== Extraction advice; soak longer, extract more with less work ====<br />
Instead of all of the multiple extractions one after the other you could save yourself some work by just throwing 500 grams of broken pieces of root bark into 2 liters of water with 200 grams of NaOH dissolved into the water and then pour in 750 ml of naphtha and set the whole container aside for three days, stirring just once a day for 20 minutes at a time. After three days the solvent from a single draw of the aqueous mix should contain far more alkaloid, maybe has high as two thirds the total amount I had pulled out in four separate draws done over 24 hours. Obviously, even after letting the mix sit for three days and a very successful first big pull of the alkaloid from the mix you will need to re-extract the aqueous solution with more naphtha at least three times to get the bulk of the alkaloid out but then you could probably still continue extracting the mix a half dozen times or more and still get more of the alkaloid out each time, although ever diminishing returns. You just have to decide how much you want to get out of the mix before considering it a waste of time or solvent to continue working at it. <br />
==== Notes on separating the naphtha from the aqueous mix ====<br />
When separating the naphtha from the NaOH/water/root you may need to first pour the solvent off the top of the mix into a large measuring cup allowing some of the dark basified water to come over with it so that you can more easily pour the solvent off using the small spout on the measuring cup because when pouring the solvent out of a bowl it is difficult to control what pours out. <br />
==== To warm or not to warm the basified mix of root bark ====<br />
Although the majority of the alkaloid had been extracted at room temperature for this extraction I found that the amount of alkaloid extracted is greater when the mix is warmed up to 100 degrees F. - Whether it is a good idea to warm highly basified DMT containing plant material I do not know. Although the yield was greater in a shorter amount of time on that last draw at over 130 degrees F. the extract was different, although clear before complete evaporation of the naphtha it turned a yellow color and remained as a syrup-like liquid for two days, although which took days to begin to crystalize yet it appears to be fairly high percentage DMT by both smell and appearance when it does crystalize. Perhaps heating the mix allows plant fats to come over which did not do so before? Perhaps Not being any kind of a chemist I do not know the answer to this but I can accurately report on what I observed which is all this tech really is, a report.<br />
When soaking the root bark in the warmed solution be sure to periodically check the temperature to make sure the solution does not go over 120 F. or you might get a lot of the gummy impurities in the extract which showed up when I did so. Even though I am recommending 100 degrees F. and suggesting an upper limit of 120 degrees F. even 100 F might be too warm if over a long enough period of time causing some of the gummy substance I had observed coming over into the solvent at ~130+ degrees to be extracted. To assure this substance does not extract along with the alkaloid it might be better to just leave the solution at normal room temperatures while soaking the bark in the aqueous mix for 72+ hours and only raise the solution to 120 degrees F. for an hour prior to pouring the solvent off for evaporation. <br />
If you decide to heat your basified mix with naphtha in it for hours to days as the root bark is broken down by the NaOH I would cover the container with kitchen plastic wrap or something to slow the evaporation of the naphtha. After 48 hours the root bark is broken down pretty good by the lye to where it becomes fairly soft and extracts well but if you are using powdered root bark I do not believe it would be necessary to soak the bark for that long a period of time at all, probably just an hour or more should be enough to chemically break the powder itself down further for a higher extraction yield. <br />
There is a report that DMT will break down in solution over time, more easily if at high pH. While I have not verified this report I did get a runny extra<br />
== Reference ==<br />
<references/><br />
[[Category:Extraction Tek]]</div>I*i*bhttps://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Lazyman%27s_tekLazyman's tek2009-02-17T21:52:34Z<p>I*i*b: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Lazyman's Tek<ref>The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark - 10th October 2006[http://www.entheogen.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9217]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}<br />
<br />
==The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark by Vortex==<br />
===A report and guide for a new way of extracting MHRB===<br />
<br />
<br />
====Extraction Time====<br />
* 1 gm in 2.5 hrs<br />
* 4 gm in 7 hr<br />
* 7.5 g total @48 hrs<br />
<br />
<br />
====Equipment====<br />
* 5 Litre ceramic mixing bowl<br />
* Potato masher<br />
* 2000 ml measuring cup<br />
* Large flat glass baking pan<br />
* Fan<br />
* VM&P [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naptha Naphtha]; hardware store<br />
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_hydroxide NaOH sodium hydroxide]; online auction, often listed as Red Devil Lye<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Foreword ===<br />
<br />
This process is much simpler than all of the other DMT extraction teks for Mimosa hostilis root bark. All you need to do is throw pieces of root bark into water which has had a measured amount of NaOH/sodium hydroxide dissolved into it, wait an hour, add naphtha, stir for a few minutes and then pour the naphtha off into a collection container for evaporation. In essence that is all there is to this tek. No need to fuss with acidifying the root bark for a defat, no pH papers needed, no separatory funnel, nothing fancy yet this is a very effective technique with higher yields than any other method out there yet.<br />
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Here is a more detailed explanation of the extraction method using a half kilo of root bark:<br />
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Break 400 to 500 grams of Mimosa hostilis root bark, whether inner, outer or whole root into small enough pieces all of it will fit into a large ceramic or stainless steel mixing bowl with enough room left over to only fill the bowl half way to the top. Next, completely dissolve 200 grams of NaOH/sodium hydroxide into 2000-3000 ml of tap water and add to the root bark. <br />
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Wait an hour for the lye/sodium hydroxide to soften up the root bark and then using a stainless steel potato masher stir and mash the base adjusted water into the pieces of root bark for 20-30 minutes and then pour in 250+ ml of naphtha into the bowl and mix for another 20-30 minutes. After you are done mixing the root bark let it sit for a few minutes so that any emulsion which might have stirred up into the solvent to settle out and then just pour the majority of the solvent off of the top of the basified aqueous mix into a large flat glass baking pan and evaporate with a fan blowing air across the top of the fluid to net 600-1000 mg of alkaloid in just a few hours. <br />
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Is there any easier process to extract and isolate that much alkaloid in two to three hours from a pound of root bark? Although the initial yield will be much higher if extracting powdered root bark which takes much less time, whole or broken root bark can also provide high yields if you wait two or three days for the hard strips of bark to turn into a mush as the NaOH breaks it down further and further over time in the basified solution for a higher extraction yield. If waiting 24 hours and performing a single extraction the broken root bark the basified aqueous mix will still need to be extracted over again three or more times to get more of the DMT alkaloid out. That's it, a very simple process with yields others have reported to be much higher than the more often used A-B or acid to base teks. With dried Mimosa hostilis root bark the DMT is already in the form of a salt as is and there are so little plant fats many people simply do not bother with a defat cycle so going strait to base chemical works out very well with this material.<br />
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==== Dry defat without acid ====<br />
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Although Mimosa hostilis root bark extracts fairly cleanly with minimal plant fats if you want to remove what little of it there is you can do so without adding an acid to the powder with water by just mixing the dry (no H20) root bark powder into enough naphtha to allow all of the powder to be freely stirred up into the fluid for a few minutes and then filtered out of the naphtha which is then discarded. For an extreme defat heat the naphtha to near its boiling point and then stir the powder into it but be sure to pour off every drop of naphtha you can when done and throw that naphtha away, you should not use it for anything more in the process. Once you are done with the solvent defat the root bark powder is then dumped into the basified mix, as is and wet with naphtha if you like, or after drying. No harm adding root bark with a little naphtha still soaked into it from the defat, you are just going to end up pouring more naphtha in anyway. This "dry" defat without water works very well to remove what fats there are but is not really needed if extracting the plant material at room temperature. <br />
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=== Step by step guide for the above using a pound of root bark ===<br />
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If you want to use more or less root bark fraction or multiply out everything specified in this tech for smaller or larger amounts:<br />
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# Break a pound or 454 grams of dried of Mimosa hostilis root bark into small pieces so that no piece is longer than three inches allowing them to all nicely fit into the bottom of a large 5 liter mixing bowl with lots of extra room left over and set to the side.<br />
# Prepare some basified water by fully dissolving 200 grams (~13 measured tablespoons full) of NaOH/sodium hydroxide lye powder into 2 liters of tap water in a large measuring cup. <br />
# Add the basified water you just made to the bowl of broken root bark, stir for a few minutes and set aside for two or more hours (longer is better). <br />
# After soaking the root bark in high pH NaOH adjusted water (which is near a pH of 13.5 or more) for a couple of hours or more take a stainless steel potato masher and start mashing the broken root as best you can in the basified water for 20-30 minutes (longer is better). <br />
# After you are done mashing the root bark for a few minutes (which will still be fairly hard if only soaking 2 hours) then add 250 to 400 ml of clean room temperature naphtha (more makes separation from the soup easier) and stir the solvent into the aqueous mix for 20-30 minutes (longer is better). <br />
# After mixing the naphtha into the bowl pour as much of the solvent as you can easily get off of the top of the aqueous mix (naphtha floats on top in water as a distinct layer) into another container, leaving all of the dark soup behind which will be extracted over again later. Be sure not to allow any of the dark water or any of the bubbly emulsion which may have formed in the solvent to go out with it, you just want clear solvent now leaving everything else behind in the bowl.<br />
'''Note:''' If you have so much emulsion that the solvent is half filled with it wait a few minutes to an hour for it to settle out so you can get more of the solvent out. <br />
# Take all of the clear naphtha without any water or bubbles in it you have carefully separated from the basified mix of water and root bark and pour all of it into as large a flat glass container you can find for evaporation. Using a fan to blow air across the top of the fluid will help speed the rate of evaporation several fold faster. <br />
# After all of the naphtha has been evaporated you will find small white DMT bumps of extract stuck to the glass which can be scraped off with a flat blade. If you also see some shiny clear film on the glass it is best to wait until they completely solidify into a white deposit of DMT before scraping off together with the larger white clumps.<br />
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=== Extraction notes ===<br />
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When this extraction process was first tried with inner root bark 1.0 grams of very white alkaloid without discernable fat impurities was extracted from beginning to end in just 2 and a half hours and that includes the time to fan evaporate the naphtha in a broad flat glass pan. Of course, the aqueous mix of root bark needs to be extracted over to get more of the alkaloid out of the mix but you can get plenty of DMT for unspecified uses in a short amount of time this way with a minimal amount of elbow grease and time.<br />
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==== Soaking the root bark in basified water ====<br />
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The broken inner root bark was soaked in 2 liters of water with 75 grams of NaOH dissolved into it for 1 hour before trying to mash the root bark in the basified water with a potato masher. The bark almost immediately became a dark black color and the water soon after became very dark brown colored which after 30 minutes of working the root bark with a masher started to appear more black than brown. <br />
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==== The first extraction cycle ====<br />
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After that 400 ml of naphtha was poured into the aqueous basified mix which was then stirred for 30 minutes with a potato masher so that the solvent would absorb the alkaloid released from the root bark by the high pH water. I like to use 300-400 ml of solvent per extraction to make separation from the basified portion of the mix easier. Then the naphtha was carefully and slowly poured off the top of the aqueous mix into another container for full evaporation to net a full gram of white alkaloid from 500 grams of inner Mimosa hostilis root bark without powdering it. <br />
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==== Second extraction, NaOH doubled ====<br />
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Right after this first extraction I wanted to see if increasing the amount of NaOH would increase the yield so 75 more grams of sodium hydroxide was dissolved into ~750 ml of additional water and added to the mix with 400 more ml of naphtha poured into the bowl which was stirred again for close to 30 minutes and carefully separated from the mix for evaporation. With the amount of NaOH doubled the yield was found to be 50% greater at 1.5 grams of alkaloid and because of this I recommend a minimum of 150 grams of NaOH for 2 liters of water when extracting 250 to 500 grams of broken root bark and from 200-250 grams of this base per 3+ liters of water when extracting from 500 to 1000 grams of broken root bark. <br />
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==== Third extraction ====<br />
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After the first two extractions the root bark was extracted a third time right way. 400 ml of fresh solvent was added to the mix again and stirred for 30 minutes before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation to yield about ~1.25 grams on the third try that day, all in just a few hours. From there another 400 ml of naphtha (which is way more than needed on a solubility basis) was added to the brown to black appearing aqueous solution, covered to prevent further evaporation and put away to soak for close to 24 hours.<br />
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==== Fourth extraction, long soak ====<br />
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After another day the root bark had become far softer and almost slimy instead of stiff root bark as it had been the day before, the NaOH clearly doing its job at breaking the plant material down. The solvent from this forth long term extraction was evaporated to yield another 1.5 grams of white extract for a total of close to 5 grams of impure DMT from 500 grams of inner root bark from the four extractions spread over 30+ hours from when the root bark was first placed in the bowl. <br />
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==== Fifth extraction, another 24 hours and warming ====<br />
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For this fifth extraction of the aqueous solution naphtha was added into the bowl and allowed to sit another 24 hours before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation. An hour before pouring it off the mix was warmed to 120 degrees F. and stirred for 20 minutes. Upon evaporation I found that the warming had made quite a difference, even after having extracted the mix four times prior I found that I was able to draw nearly 2 grams of alkaloid into the solvent this time which was more than any of the previous single extractions, even greater than the first or second which you would naturally assume would be greater. Part of the reason for this might be that the root bark had soaked in the basified solution longer releasing more alkaloid to the water and also part due to both the basified mix and solvent being warm but in any case the draw was highest on the fifth extraction of the solution bringing the total net up to ~6.5 grams with more left in the root bark to get out, all from 500 grams of inner root bark. <br />
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==== Sixth extraction, more heat caused problems ====<br />
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A sixth and last extraction was performed to the mix by pouring 500 ml of fresh naphtha back into the bowl, stirring for a few minutes and then heating the aqueous solution under the naphtha to 130 degrees F. for an hour, stirring often. The temperature of the naphtha floating on top of the basified solution was measured to be 10-15 degrees cooler than the basified mix below it due to what I assume was being caused by cooling as the solvent evaporated off the top, even though a fairly slow rate of evaporation. After an hour at 130 F. the warm naphtha was poured off for rapid fan evaporation in the large flat glass pan which yielded close to 2 grams of yellowish extract (only becoming yellow after solidifying, clear until then) but this time upon cooling did not firm up very quickly and even after 8 hours was a very soft sticky extract which was obviously mostly DMT as indicated by both smell and crystalline formations but would not dry into a firm wax-like substance very quickly due to what I believe might be fatty impurities released from the root bark when heated too far in the base solution.<br />
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==== Extraction advice; soak longer, extract more with less work ====<br />
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Instead of all of the multiple extractions one after the other you could save yourself some work by just throwing 500 grams of broken pieces of root bark into 2 liters of water with 200 grams of NaOH dissolved into the water and then pour in 750 ml of naphtha and set the whole container aside for three days, stirring just once a day for 20 minutes at a time. After three days the solvent from a single draw of the aqueous mix should contain far more alkaloid, maybe has high as two thirds the total amount I had pulled out in four separate draws done over 24 hours. Obviously, even after letting the mix sit for three days and a very successful first big pull of the alkaloid from the mix you will need to re-extract the aqueous solution with more naphtha at least three times to get the bulk of the alkaloid out but then you could probably still continue extracting the mix a half dozen times or more and still get more of the alkaloid out each time, although ever diminishing returns. You just have to decide how much you want to get out of the mix before considering it a waste of time or solvent to continue working at it. <br />
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==== Notes on separating the naphtha from the aqueous mix ====<br />
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When separating the naphtha from the NaOH/water/root you may need to first pour the solvent off the top of the mix into a large measuring cup allowing some of the dark basified water to come over with it so that you can more easily pour the solvent off using the small spout on the measuring cup because when pouring the solvent out of a bowl it is difficult to control what pours out. <br />
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==== To warm or not to warm the basified mix of root bark ====<br />
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Although the majority of the alkaloid had been extracted at room temperature for this extraction I found that the amount of alkaloid extracted is greater when the mix is warmed up to 100 degrees F. - Whether it is a good idea to warm highly basified DMT containing plant material I do not know. Although the yield was greater in a shorter amount of time on that last draw at over 130 degrees F. the extract was different, although clear before complete evaporation of the naphtha it turned a yellow color and remained as a syrup-like liquid for two days, although which took days to begin to crystalize yet it appears to be fairly high percentage DMT by both smell and appearance when it does crystalize. Perhaps heating the mix allows plant fats to come over which did not do so before? Perhaps Not being any kind of a chemist I do not know the answer to this but I can accurately report on what I observed which is all this tech really is, a report.<br />
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When soaking the root bark in the warmed solution be sure to periodically check the temperature to make sure the solution does not go over 120 F. or you might get a lot of the gummy impurities in the extract which showed up when I did so. Even though I am recommending 100 degrees F. and suggesting an upper limit of 120 degrees F. even 100 F might be too warm if over a long enough period of time causing some of the gummy substance I had observed coming over into the solvent at ~130+ degrees to be extracted. To assure this substance does not extract along with the alkaloid it might be better to just leave the solution at normal room temperatures while soaking the bark in the aqueous mix for 72+ hours and only raise the solution to 120 degrees F. for an hour prior to pouring the solvent off for evaporation. <br />
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If you decide to heat your basified mix with naphtha in it for hours to days as the root bark is broken down by the NaOH I would cover the container with kitchen plastic wrap or something to slow the evaporation of the naphtha. After 48 hours the root bark is broken down pretty good by the lye to where it becomes fairly soft and extracts well but if you are using powdered root bark I do not believe it would be necessary to soak the bark for that long a period of time at all, probably just an hour or more should be enough to chemically break the powder itself down further for a higher extraction yield. <br />
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There is a report that DMT will break down in solution over time, more easily if at high pH. While I have not verified this report I did get a runny extra<br />
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== Reference ==<br />
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[[Category:Extraction Tek]]</div>I*i*b