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Super-Easy No-Filter Harmalas Tek

2026-03-08T00:49:22Z

Q21q21:

[[image:Sdsadsadsa.JPG]]

== Introduction ==

The core ideas in this tek are based on the posts by '''Ouro/Mydriasis, Brennendes Wasser & Gibran2'''. As with “my” DMT tek, I’m simply standing on the shoulders of giants and breaking down a method as comprehensively as I can for clarity.

The inspiration for writing this Tek is the no-filter strategy that replacing filtration with several washing and decanting steps.

With the exception of Gibran2’s tek on the wiki which explicitly advises against using Syrian Rue, the threads which mention this method have up 50-100x fewer views than the older rue teks on the wiki which from my personal experience can take 5-10 times longer than this one. Hopefully putting this on the wiki will help spread these ideas.

'''''The purpose of this Tek is low-effort, easy steps and getting pure harmalas. A decent yield of 2-3% percent can come in as little as 12 hours, but 5+% is very possible too. Most importantly, after some simple boiling and straining, only waiting and then pouring water into a bucket are your tasks rather than slow messy high-effort filtration.'''''

'''The core features of the easy tek are:'''
* Using whole Syrian Rue seeds rather than ground up ones.
* Freezing and thawing the seeds.
* Simmering, not boiling.
* Replacing filtering with water-washing and decanting.
* Only a single basing step to produce a pure product.

'''Note:''' There is a ~''highly condensed cliff-notes version''~ of the tek after the protein powder bucket picture. Also, for those wanting to do extractions of 200g to 1kg+, there are ''~large-scale extraction cliff-notes''~ as well.
(Credit to '''TransistorBass ''' for the idea)

== Procedure ==

'''Caution:''' Harmalas can be absorbed through the skin. Please keep children and pregnant women away from your extraction.

[[File:IMG_20260131_104442.jpg|thumb|Frozen Rue Seeds]]

- The night before the extraction starts, soak 100g of whole Syrian Rue seeds in at least 500ml of water and put it in the freezer until solid. My experiments suggest freezing increases the yield of the first boil by 2x or more.

[[File:11111.jpg|thumb|Simmering Rue Seeds]]

- You can thaw the ice-seeds mix slowly, or melt it on the stove top. Once thawed, add ~30ml vinegar and enough water to increase the volume to 1000ml and lightly simmer for 30-40 minutes. Add more fresh water halfway through the simmering to get it back to 1000ml to account for the evaporation. Do not fully boil it, that will only slow down the washing steps later by extracting more unwanted things from the seeds.

More time and/or water is fine, but don’t use less! My tests indicate that on the first boil:
* 1. Using half as much water reduces the yield by around 50%
* 2. Halving the boiling time reduces the yield by up to 50%

-After simmering, Separate the liquid from the seeds into a heat-safe container like a pot or jar to cool. A small mesh strainer pushed down on the seeds and turkey baster sucking up the liquid works best to get much of the liquid trapped between the seeds, but pouring the liquid through a mesh strainer is a perfectly fine second-best option if you’re careful.

[[File:Ghgfhgfhgfh.JPG|thumb|Straining Rue Seeds]]

- After separating the simmering liquid from the seeds, rinse them by adding enough tap water to make most of them float, then transfer that liquid into the same heat-safe container.

- Add 15ml more vinegar and enough water to the seeds to raise the level to 750ml and and simmer for 20 minutes. After simmering, separate the liquid from the seeds as before.

'''Note:''' A 3rd simmering step is perfectly fine to do, but will increase the volume of water making this no-reduce tek more cumbersome. Even the 2nd simmering step is optional. If you prefer to only work with a small amount of liquid and still get a 2-3% yield, just do the first 40 minutes simmer.

[[File:IMG 20260131 142109.jpg|thumb|Color Change from adding sodium Carbonate]]

- Combine both of the simmering liquids and after they've cooled enough for safety, transfer them using a funnel to a tall narrow container that we’ll call your “washing vessel”. Although a glass vessel with slick sides is best, a 2L milk jug or water bottle will suffice and should be easy for anyone to buy. Wider washing vessels are not recommended as tall narrow ones allow decanting significantly more liquid before sediments begin to be poured off.

'''Note:''' If your washing vessel is too small to fit all the liquid, you can simply use 2 vessels for the first washing step then pour off enough clear liquid from the top of each vessel to reduce the liquid enough to fit in one for the entire rest of the tek.

- Add a concentrated sodium-carbonate-in-water solution to the liquid in your washing vessel and stir. You will immediately see a color change from red-brown to sand-colored. Continue adding the sodium carbonate solution and stirring until adding it no longer results in a color change. Try not to add a large excess of sodium carbonate, but you don’t have to be too careful about it.

'''Note:''' Sodium carbonate can be bought as washing soda, or produced by baking baking soda in an oven for 1-2 hours @ 200°C OR cooking it in a dry pan for 20-30 minutes on medium-high heat until the gas bubbles stop

- You will likely see some dusty harmalas settling at the bottom of the washing vessel after a couple minutes. Place the vessel into the fridge for the harmalas to settle completely to the bottom.

~~At this point you technically could filter the liquid progressively through cotton balls then a coffee filter and then wash it several time to get a pure product. This is a valid option that will work; however, this is not the relatively unknown method that inspired me to write this tek, nor is it recommended.~~

'''The recommended purification & separation''' method requires some explanation behind the core concept and a crucial choice in terms of how speedy you want your first batch of dry harmalas to be retrieved.

'''First thing to know is:''' freebase harmalas are nearly insoluble in water, so washing them repeatedly results in very few losses and this washing serves to lower the amount of base and Syrian Rue tea's co-extractives to levels enough to be negligible in your end product. Analysis by Brennendes Wasser shows that washing 4 times can lead to a pure product, but realistically 5-7 washes is recommended.

'''Second thing to know is:''' the settling of freebase harmalas in a solution takes a while. Based on my observations in my 1.5L glass container:
30 minutes in the fridge – the bulk of harmalas have settled, but much of the particulates are still visibly floating
1 hour in the fridge – the top half of the liquid is mostly clear, but the bottom half has some floating particulates
2 hours in the fridge – the majority of the particulates have all settled, just a bit of them are still floating
2.5+ hours in the fridge – all particulates have fully settled

'''Note:''' settling outside the fridge slows the settling to some degree. Also, the first settling can be much slower than all subsequent ones.

The washing process requires 2 nearly identical retrieval procedures:
* 1. The bulk-product retrieval
* 2. The carryover loss retrieval.

When doing the bulk-product retrieval:
If one wanted a very rushed 50-60% bulk product, then 4 or 5 washes with 30 minutes settling periods would definitely achieve that.
A good mix between quick product and yield is 1 hour settling periods where around 70-75% might be retained after all the washes.
Of course, as the mix settles longer, carryover “losses” from the decanting will be reduced but never zero.

I should make it clear that “losses” are in quotations, because they are not actually lost, but just retrieved later in the carryover loss retrieval.
A relaxed and effective approach, which I typically do, is to perform 2–3 washes per day, allowing longer settling periods (overnight or throughout the day). This minimizes effort while still achieving a clean product.

Anyway, on to the specific steps of '''the recommended purification & separation method:

== Process 1: Bulk Product Retrieval ==

[[File:Aaaaaaa.JPG|thumb|Washing and Decanting Cycle]]

After your chosen amount of settling time:
* 1. Carefully pick up the washing vessel with the settled harmalas and very slowly pour around 90% of the liquid out of the vessel into a large container like a bucket . As long as it is done slowly then the majority of the harmalas should all be left sitting at the bottom. When the bottom sediment is about halfway up the side is typically a good time to stop pouring.
* 2. After decanting the water, you should be left with a very muddy-looking mix at the bottom.
* 3. Add fresh tap water, filling the liquid up close to the top.
* 4. Return the washing vessel to the fridge to settle

- The 4 steps above must be repeated at least 4 times, ideally 5 to 7.
During the first wash the water poured off will be quite brown but it will get clearer and clearer each cycle. When the washing is complete the water above the harmalas will be perfectly clear but with a very slight florescent tint.

[[File:Rgfdfd.jpg|thumb|Drying Washed Harmalas]]

- After the last washing cycle, pour the harmalas/water onto a heat-safe plate or baking dish and evaporate in a '''very low''' oven or on the stovetop on '''minimum''' setting until the harmalas are dry.

[[File:Fgfdg.jpg|thumb|Scraping Up Dry Harmalas]]

[[File:56546.jpg|thumb|2.3g of Dried Harmalas]]

- After cooling use a razor blade to scrape up your harmalas into a small vial or plastic bag and store in a cool dry place.

As noted earlier, while further purification steps can surely be done, analysis by Brennendes Wasser show that they are likely unnecessary. The harmalas theoretically should be ready to use for changa or pharmahuasca.

== Process 2: Carryover Loss Retrieval ==

[[File:Dfdsfdsfds.jpg|thumb|Decanted Water with Carryover Loss Harmalas at the Bottom]]

'''Note:''' the "bucket" I used is much smaller than what is recommended, I needed to frequently pour of 50% of the liquid to stop it from overflowing.

Your bucket/large container will contain a bunch of water and your carryover loss harmalas at the bottom. Because you already retrieved the bulk of your harmalas AND the fact that the harmalas will naturally be the finer more whispy ones, the return on invested time is going to be significantly lower than the bulk-method from before (typically around 10-15% of the bulk). The fine whispy harmalas will take longer to settle so make sure to allow 3+ hours for all washes.

- After settling, simply pour/scoop off the liquid on the top until you have reduced the volume to enough to transfer it into your tall-narrow washing vessel. Then do 3-4 decanting-washing cycles, pour and dry your harmalas and retrieve the “losses” from before.

I DO NOT recommend doing a second carryover retrieval procedure as it would likely only recovery 1-1.5% of the bulk product. Simply discard the liquid decanted during the carryover retrieval washing cycles.

== Regular Procedure Cliff-Notes ==

# '''Freeze-Thaw Prep:''' Soak 100g whole Syrian Rue seeds in water. Freeze solid. Thaw the frozen seed-water. The freezing step significantly increases initial yield of the Tek.
# '''Initial Simmer:''' Place the seed mix in a pot, add ~30ml vinegar, and sufficient water to reach 1000ml total volume. Lightly simmer (DON'T boil) for 40 minutes, maintaining the volume by adding water as needed.
# '''Strain & Re-Simmer:''' Strain the liquid through a mesh strainer into a heat-safe collection container. Return seeds to the pot, add a splash of vinegar and enough water to raise volume to ~750ml. Simmer for 20 minutes, strain, and combine all liquid. Cool. (An optional 3rd simmer can be done)
# '''Basify:''' Add a saturated sodium carbonate (or dilute lye/NaOH) solution a little bit at a time to the cooled tea until precipitation stops increasing—indicated by a color change to sand-colored and the formation a cloudy precipitate.
# '''Settle:''' Allow the mixture to settle for 1 hour, then gently agitate to encourage floaters to sink. Refrigerate for 2+ hours until precipitate is fully settled.
# '''Wash Cycles (5-7x):''' After the tall-narrow washing vessel has settled in the fridge, carefully decant ~90% of the liquid into a bucket. Refill the vessel with fresh water and return to the fridge to fully settle. Repeat 5-7 times to dilute and remove residual base.
# '''Dry:''' After the last decanting, pour the final brown sludge into a heatproof dish. Evaporate at low heat (e.g., '''low''' oven with door ajar, or electric stove top '''on min''') until completely dry. Scrape the powder for storage and optional weighing.
# '''Recover "Losses":''' Allow the bucket of decanted wash water to settle for several hours. Pour off enough water to fit it in your tall-narrow washing vessel then process the settled sediment with 3-4 more wash cycles (discarding decanted liquid) and dry as above to recover remaining harmalas.

== Large-Scale Procedure Cliff-Notes ==

[[File:Aaaab.JPG|thumb|Large Scale Base Step and 35g Harmalas]]

'''Note:''' the '''underlined and bolded''' text are the necessary changes from the regular procedure when doing a large-scale extraction. The non-bolded text are the things that remain the same regardless of scale.

# '''Freeze-Thaw Prep:''' Soak whole Syrian Rue seeds in water. Freeze solid. '''Depending on the size of your freezer, you may have to freeze the seeds in 2+ batches of water.''' Thaw the frozen seed-water. The freezing step significantly increases initial yield of the Tek. (An optional 2nd freeze-thaw cycle can be done).
# '''Initial Simmer:''' Place the thawed seed mix in a pot, add a splash of vinegar, and sufficient water to '''double the volume of water'''. Lightly simmer (DON'T boil) for 40 minutes, maintaining the volume by adding water as needed. '''In my case, my freezing vessel was my largest pot. After thawing I removed roughly 50% of the seeds to another container then simmered. For most households with standard size pots, several simmers will need to be done for the seeds to be in enough water, Using less water decreases yield and is not recommended!'''
# '''Strain & Re-Simmer:''' Strain the liquid through a mesh strainer into a heat-safe collection container. Return seeds to the pot, add vinegar and enough water '''to cover the seeds and a bit more'''. Simmer for 20 minutes, strain, and '''cool all the liquid before transferring it into a bucket'''. (An optional 3rd simmer can be done).
# '''Basify:''' '''To the liquid in the bucket,''' add a saturated sodium carbonate (or dilute lye/caustic soda) solution a little bit at a time to the cooled tea until precipitation stops increasing—indicated by a color change to sand-colored and the formation a cloudy precipitate.
# '''Settle:''' Allow the mixture to sit for 3+ hours until precipitate is fully settled.
# '''FIRST Wash Cycle:''' After settling, '''carefully decant or siphon off about 60% of the liquid and discard it. After letting fully settle again, carefully decant or siphon off about 50% of the remaining liquid''' into a bucket. '''Strongly stir/agitate the muddy liquid to make all the harmalas float and transfer the liquid to one or more tall-narrow washing vessels.''' Refill the vessel'''(s)''' with fresh water and put it in the fridge to fully settle. '''If your bucket/bottle is too small, you can always settle and discard 50% of liquid then add more of the harmala tea (after cooling) as many times as you'd like during the process to make it fit.'''
# '''All other Wash Cycles (6-8x):''' After the tall-narrow washing vessel has settled in the fridge, carefully decant ~90% of the liquid into a bucket. Refill the vessel'''(s)''' with fresh water and return to the fridge to fully settle. Repeat to 6-8 times to dilute and remove residual base.
# '''Dry:''' After the last decanting, pour the final light-brown sludge into a heatproof dish. Evaporate at low heat (e.g., low oven with door ajar, or on a warm surface like a wood stove) until completely dry. Scrape the powder for storage and optional weighing.
# '''Recover "Losses":''' Allow the bucket of decanted wash water to settle for several hours. Pour off enough water to fit it in your tall-narrow washing vessel then process the settled sediment with 3-4 more wash cycles and dry as above to recover finer particulates.

'''Volume needs for your containers for each step:'''

'''Freezing requirements:'''
* For 200g of rue seeds - freezer-safe vessel(s) holding ~1600ml water
* For 500g of rue seeds - freezer-safe vessel(s) holding ~4000ml water
* For 1kg of rue seeds - freezer-safe vessel(s) holding ~8000ml water

'''Simmering requirements:'''
* For 200g of rue seeds - stove-safe vessel(s) holding 3200ml water
* For 500g of rue seeds - stove-safe vessel(s) holding 8000ml water
* For 1kg of rue seeds - stove-safe vessel(s) holding 16000ml water

'''FIRST-WASH bucket requirements:'''

200g
* 1600ml-2000ml - ONE simmer
* 2800ml - 3500ml - TWO simmers
* 4000ml - 5000ml - THREE simmers

500g
* 4000ml-5000ml - ONE simmer
* 7000ml-9250ml - TWO simmers
* 10000ml-13500ml - THREE simmers

1kg
* 8000ml-10000ml - ONE simmer
* 14000ml-17500ml - TWO simmers
* 20000ml-25000ml - THREE simmers

'''Note:''' While an equal volume bucket as the first batch is useful to catch the carryover losses, with adequate settling time 50-60% of the liquid should be able to be poured off or siphoned and discarded with minimal losses, so roughly half of the first-wash volume container is actually needed.

'''Washes 2 through 7 vessel requirements:'''
This one is a little complex, but using a too-small vessel will not reduce yield, rather just make you need to do over 7 washes to create a pure product.

* A one-simmer batch will typically result in 2-3.5% yield - E.g. 1kg could result in 20-35g harmalas (estimate based on my tests)
* A two-simmer batch might yield 3.5-4.5% - E.g. 1kg could result in 35-45g harmalas (estimate based on my test)
* A three-simmer batch might yield 4-5.5+% - E.g. 1kg could result in 40-55+g harmalas (estimate based on TransistorBass's test)

You can do the math and find your expected yield and corresponding volume below:
* For ~5g of harmalas, 500ml minimum tall-narrow washing vessel(s) recommended
* For ~10g of harmalas, 1000ml minimum tall-narrow washing vessel(s) recommended
* For ~20g of harmalas, 2000ml minimum tall-narrow washing vessel(s) recommended
* For ~40g of harmalas, 4000ml minimum tall-narrow washing vessel(s) recommended

'''Carryover loss bucket requirements:'''
* For ~5g of harmalas, 2000ml minimum bucket(s) recommended
* For ~10g of harmalas, 1 gallon minimum bucket(s) recommended
* For ~20g of harmalas, 2 gallon minimum bucket(s) recommended
* For ~40g of harmalas, 5 gallon minimum bucket(s) recommended

== Optional Harmalas Separation ==

[[File:Aaac.JPG|thumb|Separated Harmaline (left) & Harmine (right)]]

'''''This separation procedure is based on the collaborative research of the DMT-Nexus community, primarily the work of An1cca, Jees, and VDS (Van Der Sypt), with significant contributions from ijahdan, Elrik, endlessness, GordoTEK, and many others in the 'Harmine, harmaline and THH from Syrian Rue. Verification and finetuning of the VDS-protocols' thread'''''

'''Why Separate?'''

The 2 main harmalas contained in Syrian Rue have very different effects.

'''Harmaline:'''
* Dreamy experience
* Nausea
* Often sedating
* Notable body load

'''Harmine:'''
* Clearer experience
* Low nausea
* No sedation
* Low body load

The extracted harmalas from Syrian Rue have both harmine and harmaline mixed together (around 50/50, but it varies), so experiencing one or the other on it's own is impossible without separation. While this is beyond the scope of this guide, it should be noted that Harmaline can be converted in the Tetrahydroharmine (THH) through a relatively simple process. THH has some desirable attributes listed below.

'''Tetrahydroharmine (THH)'''
* Mildly psychedelic
* No nausea
* No body load
* No sedation (some say energy and euphoria)

In order for this harmaline => THH conversion to be done, relatively pure harmaline needs to be acquired though.

While many many people have loved using unseperated rue tea and rue harmalas for Changa and Pharmahuasca, for those interested in different or more Caapi-like experiences, separation is required. While separation is a more complex process than the extraction Tek, it is not "difficult" in an objective sense. A comparison would be that the extraction Tek is as difficult as making a store-bought cake mix with ready-made icing while the separation procedure is more like making the same cake from scratch.

'''Separation Procedure Background:'''

Whether the harmalas have been further purified through Manske/Base reprecipitation will change a few things at the start of the separation procedure, but the rest of the proceedure will be the same.

[[File:Aaad.JPG|thumb|Black Undissolved Harmalas]]

'''Difference 1 - Full or Partial Dissolution of Harmalas'''
'''If the harmalas are only water-washed''', up to 20% of them will never dissolve, this is to be expected.
'''If the harmalas were purified with Manske(s)''', the insoluble harmalas have already been lost anyway, and all of the harmalas should dissolve in the vinegar-water.

'''Difference 2 - Different amount of liquid used'''
'''For only-water-washed harmalas (which I prefer to use)''' - 160ml liquid total. Either 17ml of 7% vinegar or 24ml of 5% vinegar per 3g of harmalas and the rest will be distilled water.
'''For Manske/Base purified harmalas -''' 200ml liquid total. Either 21ml of 7% vinegar or 30ml of 5% vinegar per 3g of harmalas and the rest will be distilled water.
While concentration is quite important in this process, it doesn't have to be extremely precise. Generally erring on the side of more concentrated is better than less. Note that doubling the volume of liquid will make the '''pH depression''' not happen which is essential for a proper separation of harmine and harmaline.

'''Separation Procedure:'''

[[File:Aaae.JPG|thumb|All required materials]]

'''Materials:'''
* Digital pH meter (accurate to 0.1 is okay, 0.05/0.01 is best, cheap is fine)
* 2.5g or more dry harmalas extracted from Syrian Rue
* White Vinegar
* Funnel
* Coffee filters
* Pipette
* Distilled Water
* Household Ammonia ('''make sure it has NO additives!''')
* 1 glass jars/bottle
* 1 glass jar/beaker wide enough to fit a chopstick/spoon & your pH meter
* A bowl
* A turkey baster

'''Make sure you are in a well-ventilated area for the whole separation procedure'''

[[File:Aaaf.JPG|thumb|15g of Mixed Harmalas in a Bowl]]

-Place your measured harmalas into a bowl

-Place a funnel with a coffee filter in it over your wide-glass jar/beaker

[[File:Aaag.JPG|thumb|Vinegar-Water Being Heated in a Hot Water Bath]]

- Measure and combine the vinegar and distilled water in your glass jar/bottle, and put the jar/bottle in a pot. To heat the liquid, add about 1cm room-temperature water to the bottom of the pot then add 1cm of boiling water and wait 2 minutes (adding the water too fast is likely to shatter the glass). Continue to add 0.5-1cm of boiling water to the pot every minute or so until the vinegar-water is nice and warm at the top.

- Add about 50% of the warm vinegar-water to the harmalas in the bowl and mix it around for at least 30 seconds then let it settle.

- After settling for a minute or two, use a turkey baster to transfer the clear dark red liquid through the coffee filter in the funnel above your wide-mouth jar/beaker, leaving any undissolved harmalas in the bowl.

- Add 50% of the remaining (25% of the total) warm vinegar/water to the bowl and repeat the same stirring, settling and filtering process

- Add all of the remaining warm vinegar/water to the bowl and repeat the same stirring, settling and filtering process

- The vinegar/water is '''plenty''' to dissolve all the harmalas that will dissolve, no need to add more. Simply add a small splash of distilled water to rinse the bowl and any undissolved sediment then filter the liquid through the coffee filter.

[[File:Aaah.JPG|thumb|Deep-Red Clear Liquid]]

- You should now have a clear but deep red-brown colored liquid. Put your pH meter into the solution.

[[File:Aaai.JPG|thumb|Liquid with Spoon and pH Meter]]

'''pH Meter Use for Non-Chemists'''

The proper use of a pH meter is not only quite important but includes many non-intuitive steps. Failing to follow simple rules can easily break the meter or make it seem faulty. I won't talk about calibration because it isn't actually important to have a very accurately calibrated meter for this separation procedure, just make sure to calibrate according to your manual.

What is essential:
* NEVER use it to stir
* NEVER bump the bulb at the end
* NEVER let the tip dry
* NEVER submerge it too deep

When you are not using the meter, either have it stored in 3M KCl or less ideally a buffer solution. '''If it dries, it dies.'''

* Use a pipette or glass dropper to start adding 10 or 12% ammonia at around 1 drop per second while stirring constantly (don't have to be exact about the timing). You can use a stainless steel or wood chopstick/spoon to stir. A magnetic stirrer works better, but an unnecessary investment if you don't already have one. The drops will immediately create a milky cloud that will dissipate through stirring. The milkiness will take longer to dissipate as more is added.

'''The Crucial Point - The pH Depression'''

Keep your eye on the PH looking for a "'''pH depression'''". While adding the ammonia will raise the pH anywhere from 0,01-0.04 per drop or two and stay completely stable if you stop adding the ammonia. As soon as the '''pH depression''' is reached then the pH will start to lower slowly, sometimes over 0.5 if you wait long enough. This '''first depression''' is the point in which the harmine is precipitating.

Take careful note of the pH that the depression starts at. This is the '''start point''' and your target it to get to that point +0.5. If your start point is 6.8 then your target is 7.3. While Mankse-purified and well-rinsed harmalas typically have start points between 6 and 7, if there is a little salt or sodium carbonate contamination then the '''start point''' can be up to 8.25 (all mine were 7.75+). In the case of a high '''start point''', separation will likely be less clean and filtering off a mixed-fraction is highly recommended.

The actual pH number is much less important than the observed '''pH depression'''. If your pH meter is not well calibrated, it technically could still work, just look for the depression even if it is at a different pH than those mentioned.

* As you're adding ammonia, the milky color change will take longer and longer to disappear as you get close to the '''pH depression''' point. Once you've observed a '''pH depression''' of at least 0.1, keep adding ammonia and the pH will either stabilize or very slowly rise. Continue adding drops until you reach the '''start point''' +0.5.

Note: A pH meter with only 0.1 resolution may result in you not necessarily seeing a drop in pH, but suddenly reaching a point where, for example, 7 drops would previously raise the pH by 0.1 but now it takes 20+ drops and the solution clouds rapidly. While 0.05 or 0,01 resolution is better, that observation would likely indicate a pH depression with a 0.1 resolution.

* At the '''start point +0.5''', you will see very obvious precipitation of a cocoa-powder colored sediment which falls to the bottom quite quickly, usually all of it within 10 minutes. This is your separated '''harmine''' and if done correctly will be 95% pure with only 5% harmaline. Filter the liquid into the glass jar/bottle through a clean coffee filter in a funnel to collect your harmine.
I like to decant around 95% of the liquid at the top and then use a new filter to pour the harmine through because harmaline tends to float more and take a long time to settle and I figure this helps a bit with the purity of the harmine.

'''-Rinse the brown powder with water or very dilute ammonia and dry it to claim your separated harmine.'''

* Return the liquid to the wide-mouth jar/beaker (rinse the jar/bottle with a bit of distilled water) and then it is time to get the harmaline.

'''What is a mixed fraction?'''

If you want to increase the purity, you can remove a mixed-fraction by raising the pH by 0.4 or 0.5 and then filtering off what is likely to be a mix of both harmine and harmaline. This mixed-fraction can be added to any later separation procedure you do, or used for Changa.

Whether a mixed fraction is done or not, the next steps are the same.

[[File:Aaaj.JPG|thumb|Harmaline Precipitate]]

* Start adding ammonia while looking for the '''second pH depression''' point. It is typically somewhere between 8.3 and 8.7 for Manske-cleaned harmalas (my water-washed ones were 8.8-9.1).
Once the depression '''start point''' is reached, the procedure is the same as before: Add lots of ammonia until the pH is 0.5 over the start point. You will notice that there is almost no milky color change when you are getting close to that pH.

The precipitated harmaline will be a lighter color, more like beach sand than cocoa and will both float longer and look a little like sparkly glitter.
Without a mixed fraction it could be around 92-94% pure, by removing the mixed fraction you could get 96% or purer harmaline.

'''- Rinse the light-brown powder with water or very dilute ammonia and dry it to claim your separated harmaline.'''

== Alkaloid Separation Cliff Notes ==

Prepare your liquid in a glass bottle:
* Water-washed only hamalas: 160ml total liquid (17ml 7% vinegar OR 24ml 5% vinegar per 3g, rest distilled water)
* Manske-purified harmalas: 200ml total liquid (21ml 7% vinegar OR 30ml 5% vinegar per 3g, rest distilled water)

'''Dissolve:'''
# Put your measured harmalas in a bowl
# Warm the bottle of vinegar-water in a pot
# Add boiling water slowly to pot over several minutes to heat vinegar-water
# Add 50% of the liquid to harmalas in bowl, stir 30+ sec, settle 1-2 min
# Use baster to transfer clear liquid of top through coffee filter into wide-mouth glass beaker—leave undissolved harmalas
# Repeat 4 & 5 with 50% of remaining liquid, then all remaining liquid
# Rinse bowl with a splash distilled water, filter

'''Separate Harmine:'''
# Insert pH meter
# Add ammonia dropwise (~1/sec) while stirring constantly
# Watch for FIRST pH depression—pH will drop slowly when you stop adding ammonia (Manske-purified harmalas are typically between 6-7, but water-washed ones can be up to 8.25)
# Note start of pH depression, continue adding ammonia until start pH +0.5
# Cocoa-colored harmine precipitates and settles quickly.
# ''Filter, rinse, dry to obtain harmine''

'''(Optional) Mixed Fraction:'''
* Raise pH another 0.4-0.5, filter off mix of harmine and harmaline

'''Separate Harmaline:'''
# Continue adding ammonia to remaining liquid
# Watch for SECOND pH depression (typically 8.3-8.7 with Manske-purified harmalas, water-washed ones can be up to 9.1)
# Add ammonia until depression start +0.5
# Lighter-brown harmaline precipitates.
# ''Filter, rinse, dry to obtain harmaline''

Super-Easy No-Filter Harmalas Tek

2026-03-08T00:48:55Z

Q21q21:

Super-Easy No-Filter Harmalas Tek

2026-03-08T00:47:47Z

Q21q21:

Super-Easy No-Filter Harmalas Tek

2026-03-07T22:33:21Z

Q21q21:

[[image:Sdsadsadsa.JPG]]

== Introduction ==

The core ideas in this tek are based on the posts by '''Ouro/Mydriasis, Brennendes Wasser & Gibran2'''. As with “my” DMT tek, I’m simply standing on the shoulders of giants and breaking down a method as comprehensively as I can for clarity.

The inspiration for writing this Tek is the no-filter strategy that replacing filtration with several washing and decanting steps.

With the exception of Gibran2’s tek on the wiki which explicitly advises against using Syrian Rue, the threads which mention this method have up 50-100x fewer views than the older rue teks on the wiki which from my personal experience can take 5-10 times longer than this one. Hopefully putting this on the wiki will help spread these ideas.

'''''The purpose of this Tek is low-effort, easy steps and getting pure harmalas. A decent yield of 2-3% percent can come in as little as 12 hours, but 5+% is very possible too. Most importantly, after some simple boiling and straining, only waiting and then pouring water into a bucket are your tasks rather than slow messy high-effort filtration.'''''

'''The core features of the easy tek are:'''
* Using whole Syrian Rue seeds rather than ground up ones.
* Freezing and thawing the seeds.
* Simmering, not boiling.
* Replacing filtering with water-washing and decanting.
* Only a single basing step to produce a pure product.

'''Note:''' There is a ~''highly condensed cliff-notes version''~ of the tek after the protein powder bucket picture. Also, for those wanting to do extractions of 200g to 1kg+, there are ''~large-scale extraction cliff-notes''~ as well.
(Credit to '''TransistorBass ''' for the idea)

== Procedure ==

'''Caution:''' Harmalas can be absorbed through the skin. Please keep children and pregnant women away from your extraction.

[[File:IMG_20260131_104442.jpg|thumb|Frozen Rue Seeds]]

- The night before the extraction starts, soak 100g of whole Syrian Rue seeds in at least 500ml of water and put it in the freezer until solid. My experiments suggest freezing increases the yield of the first boil by 2x or more.

[[File:11111.jpg|thumb|Simmering Rue Seeds]]

- You can thaw the ice-seeds mix slowly, or melt it on the stove top. Once thawed, add ~30ml vinegar and enough water to increase the volume to 1000ml and lightly simmer for 30-40 minutes. Add more fresh water halfway through the simmering to get it back to 1000ml to account for the evaporation. Do not fully boil it, that will only slow down the washing steps later by extracting more unwanted things from the seeds.

More time and/or water is fine, but don’t use less! My tests indicate that on the first boil:
* 1. Using half as much water reduces the yield by around 50%
* 2. Halving the boiling time reduces the yield by up to 50%

-After simmering, Separate the liquid from the seeds into a heat-safe container like a pot or jar to cool. A small mesh strainer pushed down on the seeds and turkey baster sucking up the liquid works best to get much of the liquid trapped between the seeds, but pouring the liquid through a mesh strainer is a perfectly fine second-best option if you’re careful.

[[File:Ghgfhgfhgfh.JPG|thumb|Straining Rue Seeds]]

- After separating the simmering liquid from the seeds, rinse them by adding enough tap water to make most of them float, then transfer that liquid into the same heat-safe container.

- Add 15ml more vinegar and enough water to the seeds to raise the level to 750ml and and simmer for 20 minutes. After simmering, separate the liquid from the seeds as before.

'''Note:''' A 3rd simmering step is perfectly fine to do, but will increase the volume of water making this no-reduce tek more cumbersome. Even the 2nd simmering step is optional. If you prefer to only work with a small amount of liquid and still get a 2-3% yield, just do the first 40 minutes simmer.

[[File:IMG 20260131 142109.jpg|thumb|Color Change from adding sodium Carbonate]]

- Combine both of the simmering liquids and after they've cooled enough for safety, transfer them using a funnel to a tall narrow container that we’ll call your “washing vessel”. Although a glass vessel with slick sides is best, a 2L milk jug or water bottle will suffice and should be easy for anyone to buy. Wider washing vessels are not recommended as tall narrow ones allow decanting significantly more liquid before sediments begin to be poured off.

'''Note:''' If your washing vessel is too small to fit all the liquid, you can simply use 2 vessels for the first washing step then pour off enough clear liquid from the top of each vessel to reduce the liquid enough to fit in one for the entire rest of the tek.

- Add a concentrated sodium-carbonate-in-water solution to the liquid in your washing vessel and stir. You will immediately see a color change from red-brown to sand-colored. Continue adding the sodium carbonate solution and stirring until adding it no longer results in a color change. Try not to add a large excess of sodium carbonate, but you don’t have to be too careful about it.

'''Note:''' Sodium carbonate can be bought as washing soda, or produced by baking baking soda in an oven for 1-2 hours @ 200°C OR cooking it in a dry pan for 20-30 minutes on medium-high heat until the gas bubbles stop

- You will likely see some dusty harmalas settling at the bottom of the washing vessel after a couple minutes. Place the vessel into the fridge for the harmalas to settle completely to the bottom.

~~At this point you technically could filter the liquid progressively through cotton balls then a coffee filter and then wash it several time to get a pure product. This is a valid option that will work; however, this is not the relatively unknown method that inspired me to write this tek, nor is it recommended.~~

'''The recommended purification & separation''' method requires some explanation behind the core concept and a crucial choice in terms of how speedy you want your first batch of dry harmalas to be retrieved.

'''First thing to know is:''' freebase harmalas are nearly insoluble in water, so washing them repeatedly results in very few losses and this washing serves to lower the amount of base and Syrian Rue tea's co-extractives to levels enough to be negligible in your end product. Analysis by Brennendes Wasser shows that washing 4 times can lead to a pure product, but realistically 5-7 washes is recommended.

'''Second thing to know is:''' the settling of freebase harmalas in a solution takes a while. Based on my observations in my 1.5L glass container:
30 minutes in the fridge – the bulk of harmalas have settled, but much of the particulates are still visibly floating
1 hour in the fridge – the top half of the liquid is mostly clear, but the bottom half has some floating particulates
2 hours in the fridge – the majority of the particulates have all settled, just a bit of them are still floating
2.5+ hours in the fridge – all particulates have fully settled

'''Note:''' settling outside the fridge slows the settling to some degree. Also, the first settling can be much slower than all subsequent ones.

The washing process requires 2 nearly identical retrieval procedures:
* 1. The bulk-product retrieval
* 2. The carryover loss retrieval.

When doing the bulk-product retrieval:
If one wanted a very rushed 50-60% bulk product, then 4 or 5 washes with 30 minutes settling periods would definitely achieve that.
A good mix between quick product and yield is 1 hour settling periods where around 70-75% might be retained after all the washes.
Of course, as the mix settles longer, carryover “losses” from the decanting will be reduced but never zero.

I should make it clear that “losses” are in quotations, because they are not actually lost, but just retrieved later in the carryover loss retrieval.
A relaxed and effective approach, which I typically do, is to perform 2–3 washes per day, allowing longer settling periods (overnight or throughout the day). This minimizes effort while still achieving a clean product.

Anyway, on to the specific steps of '''the recommended purification & separation method:

== Process 1: Bulk Product Retrieval ==

[[File:Aaaaaaa.JPG|thumb|Washing and Decanting Cycle]]

After your chosen amount of settling time:
* 1. Carefully pick up the washing vessel with the settled harmalas and very slowly pour around 90% of the liquid out of the vessel into a large container like a bucket . As long as it is done slowly then the majority of the harmalas should all be left sitting at the bottom. When the bottom sediment is about halfway up the side is typically a good time to stop pouring.
* 2. After decanting the water, you should be left with a very muddy-looking mix at the bottom.
* 3. Add fresh tap water, filling the liquid up close to the top.
* 4. Return the washing vessel to the fridge to settle

- The 4 steps above must be repeated at least 4 times, ideally 5 to 7.
During the first wash the water poured off will be quite brown but it will get clearer and clearer each cycle. When the washing is complete the water above the harmalas will be perfectly clear but with a very slight florescent tint.

[[File:Rgfdfd.jpg|thumb|Drying Washed Harmalas]]

- After the last washing cycle, pour the harmalas/water onto a heat-safe plate or baking dish and evaporate in a '''very low''' oven or on the stovetop on '''minimum''' setting until the harmalas are dry.

[[File:Fgfdg.jpg|thumb|Scraping Up Dry Harmalas]]

[[File:56546.jpg|thumb|2.3g of Dried Harmalas]]

- After cooling use a razor blade to scrape up your harmalas into a small vial or plastic bag and store in a cool dry place.

As noted earlier, while further purification steps can surely be done, analysis by Brennendes Wasser show that they are likely unnecessary. The harmalas theoretically should be ready to use for changa or pharmahuasca.

== Process 2: Carryover Loss Retrieval ==

[[File:Dfdsfdsfds.jpg|thumb|Decanted Water with Carryover Loss Harmalas at the Bottom]]

'''Note:''' the "bucket" I used is much smaller than what is recommended, I needed to frequently pour of 50% of the liquid to stop it from overflowing.

Your bucket/large container will contain a bunch of water and your carryover loss harmalas at the bottom. Because you already retrieved the bulk of your harmalas AND the fact that the harmalas will naturally be the finer more whispy ones, the return on invested time is going to be significantly lower than the bulk-method from before (typically around 10-15% of the bulk). The fine whispy harmalas will take longer to settle so make sure to allow 3+ hours for all washes.

- After settling, simply pour/scoop off the liquid on the top until you have reduced the volume to enough to transfer it into your tall-narrow washing vessel. Then do 3-4 decanting-washing cycles, pour and dry your harmalas and retrieve the “losses” from before.

I DO NOT recommend doing a second carryover retrieval procedure as it would likely only recovery 1-1.5% of the bulk product. Simply discard the liquid decanted during the carryover retrieval washing cycles.

== Regular Procedure Cliff-Notes ==

# '''Freeze-Thaw Prep:''' Soak 100g whole Syrian Rue seeds in water. Freeze solid. Thaw the frozen seed-water. The freezing step significantly increases initial yield of the Tek.
# '''Initial Simmer:''' Place the seed mix in a pot, add ~30ml vinegar, and sufficient water to reach 1000ml total volume. Lightly simmer (DON'T boil) for 40 minutes, maintaining the volume by adding water as needed.
# '''Strain & Re-Simmer:''' Strain the liquid through a mesh strainer into a heat-safe collection container. Return seeds to the pot, add a splash of vinegar and enough water to raise volume to ~750ml. Simmer for 20 minutes, strain, and combine all liquid. Cool. (An optional 3rd simmer can be done)
# '''Basify:''' Add a saturated sodium carbonate (or dilute lye/NaOH) solution a little bit at a time to the cooled tea until precipitation stops increasing—indicated by a color change to sand-colored and the formation a cloudy precipitate.
# '''Settle:''' Allow the mixture to settle for 1 hour, then gently agitate to encourage floaters to sink. Refrigerate for 2+ hours until precipitate is fully settled.
# '''Wash Cycles (5-7x):''' After the tall-narrow washing vessel has settled in the fridge, carefully decant ~90% of the liquid into a bucket. Refill the vessel with fresh water and return to the fridge to fully settle. Repeat 5-7 times to dilute and remove residual base.
# '''Dry:''' After the last decanting, pour the final brown sludge into a heatproof dish. Evaporate at low heat (e.g., '''low''' oven with door ajar, or electric stove top '''on min''') until completely dry. Scrape the powder for storage and optional weighing.
# '''Recover "Losses":''' Allow the bucket of decanted wash water to settle for several hours. Pour off enough water to fit it in your tall-narrow washing vessel then process the settled sediment with 3-4 more wash cycles (discarding decanted liquid) and dry as above to recover remaining harmalas.

== Large-Scale Procedure Cliff-Notes ==

[[File:Aaaab.JPG|thumb|Large Scale Base Step and 35g Harmalas]]

'''Note:''' the '''underlined and bolded''' text are the necessary changes from the regular procedure when doing a large-scale extraction. The non-bolded text are the things that remain the same regardless of scale.

# '''Freeze-Thaw Prep:''' Soak whole Syrian Rue seeds in water. Freeze solid. '''Depending on the size of your freezer, you may have to freeze the seeds in 2+ batches of water.''' Thaw the frozen seed-water. The freezing step significantly increases initial yield of the Tek. (An optional 2nd freeze-thaw cycle can be done).
# '''Initial Simmer:''' Place the thawed seed mix in a pot, add a splash of vinegar, and sufficient water to '''double the volume of water'''. Lightly simmer (DON'T boil) for 40 minutes, maintaining the volume by adding water as needed. '''In my case, my freezing vessel was my largest pot. After thawing I removed roughly 50% of the seeds to another container then simmered. For most households with standard size pots, several simmers will need to be done for the seeds to be in enough water, Using less water decreases yield and is not recommended!'''
# '''Strain & Re-Simmer:''' Strain the liquid through a mesh strainer into a heat-safe collection container. Return seeds to the pot, add vinegar and enough water '''to cover the seeds and a bit more'''. Simmer for 20 minutes, strain, and '''cool all the liquid before transferring it into a bucket'''. (An optional 3rd simmer can be done).
# '''Basify:''' '''To the liquid in the bucket,''' add a saturated sodium carbonate (or dilute lye/caustic soda) solution a little bit at a time to the cooled tea until precipitation stops increasing—indicated by a color change to sand-colored and the formation a cloudy precipitate.
# '''Settle:''' Allow the mixture to sit for 3+ hours until precipitate is fully settled.
# '''FIRST Wash Cycle:''' After settling, '''carefully decant or siphon off about 60% of the liquid and discard it. After letting fully settle again, carefully decant or siphon off about 50% of the remaining liquid''' into a bucket. '''Strongly stir/agitate the muddy liquid to make all the harmalas float and transfer the liquid to one or more tall-narrow washing vessels.''' Refill the vessel'''(s)''' with fresh water and put it in the fridge to fully settle. '''If your bucket/bottle is too small, you can always settle and discard 50% of liquid then add more of the harmala tea (after cooling) as many times as you'd like during the process to make it fit.'''
# '''All other Wash Cycles (6-8x):''' After the tall-narrow washing vessel has settled in the fridge, carefully decant ~90% of the liquid into a bucket. Refill the vessel'''(s)''' with fresh water and return to the fridge to fully settle. Repeat to 6-8 times to dilute and remove residual base.
# '''Dry:''' After the last decanting, pour the final light-brown sludge into a heatproof dish. Evaporate at low heat (e.g., low oven with door ajar, or on a warm surface like a wood stove) until completely dry. Scrape the powder for storage and optional weighing.
# '''Recover "Losses":''' Allow the bucket of decanted wash water to settle for several hours. Pour off enough water to fit it in your tall-narrow washing vessel then process the settled sediment with 3-4 more wash cycles and dry as above to recover finer particulates.

'''Volume needs for your containers for each step:'''

'''Freezing requirements:'''
* For 200g of rue seeds - freezer-safe vessel(s) holding ~1600ml water
* For 500g of rue seeds - freezer-safe vessel(s) holding ~4000ml water
* For 1kg of rue seeds - freezer-safe vessel(s) holding ~8000ml water

'''Simmering requirements:'''
* For 200g of rue seeds - stove-safe vessel(s) holding 3200ml water
* For 500g of rue seeds - stove-safe vessel(s) holding 8000ml water
* For 1kg of rue seeds - stove-safe vessel(s) holding 16000ml water

'''FIRST-WASH bucket requirements:'''

200g
* 1600ml-2000ml - ONE simmer
* 2800ml - 3500ml - TWO simmers
* 4000ml - 5000ml - THREE simmers

500g
* 4000ml-5000ml - ONE simmer
* 7000ml-9250ml - TWO simmers
* 10000ml-13500ml - THREE simmers

1kg
* 8000ml-10000ml - ONE simmer
* 14000ml-17500ml - TWO simmers
* 20000ml-25000ml - THREE simmers

'''Note:''' While an equal volume bucket as the first batch is useful to catch the carryover losses, with adequate settling time 50-60% of the liquid should be able to be poured off or siphoned and discarded with minimal losses, so roughly half of the first-wash volume container is actually needed.

'''Washes 2 through 7 vessel requirements:'''
This one is a little complex, but using a too-small vessel will not reduce yield, rather just make you need to do over 7 washes to create a pure product.

* A one-simmer batch will typically result in 2-3.5% yield - E.g. 1kg could result in 20-35g harmalas (estimate based on my tests)
* A two-simmer batch might yield 3.5-4.5% - E.g. 1kg could result in 35-45g harmalas (estimate based on my test)
* A three-simmer batch might yield 4-5.5+% - E.g. 1kg could result in 40-55+g harmalas (estimate based on TransistorBass's test)

You can do the math and find your expected yield and corresponding volume below:
* For ~5g of harmalas, 500ml minimum tall-narrow washing vessel(s) recommended
* For ~10g of harmalas, 1000ml minimum tall-narrow washing vessel(s) recommended
* For ~20g of harmalas, 2000ml minimum tall-narrow washing vessel(s) recommended
* For ~40g of harmalas, 4000ml minimum tall-narrow washing vessel(s) recommended

'''Carryover loss bucket requirements:'''
* For ~5g of harmalas, 2000ml minimum bucket(s) recommended
* For ~10g of harmalas, 1 gallon minimum bucket(s) recommended
* For ~20g of harmalas, 2 gallon minimum bucket(s) recommended
* For ~40g of harmalas, 5 gallon minimum bucket(s) recommended

== Optional Harmalas Separation ==

[[File:Aaac.JPG|thumb|Separated Harmaline (left) & Harmine (right)]]

'''''This separation procedure is based on the collaborative research of the DMT-Nexus community, primarily the work of An1cca, Jees, and VDS (Van Der Sypt), with significant contributions from ijahdan, Elrik, endlessness, GordoTEK, and many others in the 'Harmine, harmaline and THH from Syrian Rue. Verification and finetuning of the VDS-protocols' thread'''''

'''Why Separate?'''

The 2 main harmalas contained in Syrian Rue have very different effects.

'''Harmaline:'''
* Dreamy experience
* Nausea
* Often sedating
* Notable body load

'''Harmine:'''
* Clearer experience
* Low nausea
* No sedation
* Low body load

The extracted harmalas from Syrian Rue have both harmine and harmaline mixed together (around 50/50, but it varies), so experiencing one or the other on it's own is impossible without separation. While this is beyond the scope of this guide, it should be noted that Harmaline can be converted in the Tetrahydroharmine (THH) through a relatively simple process. THH has some desirable attributes listed below.

'''Tetrahydroharmine (THH)'''
* Mildly psychedelic
* No nausea
* No body load
* No sedation (some say energy and euphoria)

In order for this harmaline => THH conversion to be done, relatively pure harmaline needs to be acquired though.

While many many people have loved using unseperated rue tea and rue harmalas for Changa and Pharmahuasca, for those interested in different or more Caapi-like experiences, separation is required. While separation is a more complex process than the extraction Tek, it is not "difficult" in an objective sense. A comparison would be that the extraction Tek is as difficult as making a store-bought cake mix with ready-made icing while the separation procedure is more like making the same cake from scratch.

'''Separation Procedure Background:'''

Whether the harmalas have been further purified through Manske/Base reprecipitation will change a few things at the start of the separation procedure, but the rest of the proceedure will be the same.

[[File:Aaad.JPG|thumb|Black Undissolved Harmalas]]

'''Difference 1 - Full or Partial Dissolution of Harmalas'''
'''If the harmalas are only water-washed''', up to 20% of them will never dissolve, this is to be expected.
'''If the harmalas were purified with Manske(s)''', the insoluble harmalas have already been lost anyway, and all of the harmalas should dissolve in the vinegar-water.

'''Difference 2 - Different amount of liquid used'''
'''For only-water-washed harmalas (which I prefer to use)''' - 160ml liquid total. Either 17ml of 7% vinegar or 24ml of 5% vinegar per 3g of harmalas and the rest will be distilled water.
'''For Manske/Base purified harmalas -''' 200ml liquid total. Either 21ml of 7% vinegar or 30ml of 5% vinegar per 3g of harmalas and the rest will be distilled water.
While concentration is quite important in this process, it doesn't have to be extremely precise. Generally erring on the side of more concentrated is better than less. Note that doubling the volume of liquid will make the '''pH depression''' not happen which is essential for a proper separation of harmine and harmaline.

'''Separation Procedure:'''

[[File:Aaae.JPG|thumb|All required materials]]

'''Materials:'''
* Digital pH meter (accurate to 0.1 is okay, 0.05/0.01 is best, cheap is fine)
* 2.5g or more dry harmalas extracted from Syrian Rue
* White Vinegar
* Funnel
* Coffee filters
* Pipette
* Distilled Water
* Household Ammonia ('''make sure it has NO additives!''')
* 1 glass jars/bottle
* 1 glass jar/beaker wide enough to fit a chopstick/spoon & your pH meter
* A bowl
* A turkey baster

'''Make sure you are in a well-ventilated area for the whole separation procedure'''

[[File:Aaaf.JPG|thumb|15g of Mixed Harmalas in a Bowl]]

-Place your measured harmalas into a bowl

-Place a funnel with a coffee filter in it over your wide-glass jar/beaker

[[File:Aaag.JPG|thumb|Vinegar-Water Being Heated in a Hot Water Bath]]

- Measure and combine the vinegar and distilled water in your glass jar/bottle, and put the jar/bottle in a pot. To heat the liquid, add about 1cm room-temperature water to the bottom of the pot then add 1cm of boiling water and wait 2 minutes (adding the water too fast is likely to shatter the glass). Continue to add 0.5-1cm of boiling water to the pot every minute or so until the vinegar-water is nice and warm at the top.

- Add about 50% of the warm vinegar-water to the harmalas in the bowl and mix it around for at least 30 seconds then let it settle.

- After settling for a minute or two, use a turkey baster to transfer the clear dark red liquid through the coffee filter in the funnel above your wide-mouth jar/beaker, leaving any undissolved harmalas in the bowl.

- Add 50% of the remaining (25% of the total) warm vinegar/water to the bowl and repeat the same stirring, settling and filtering process

- Add all of the remaining warm vinegar/water to the bowl and repeat the same stirring, settling and filtering process

- The vinegar/water is '''plenty''' to dissolve all the harmalas that will dissolve, no need to add more. Simply add a small splash of distilled water to rinse the bowl and any undissolved sediment then filter the liquid through the coffee filter.

[[File:Aaah.JPG|thumb|Deep-Red Clear Liquid]]

- You should now have a clear but deep red-brown colored liquid. Put your pH meter into the solution.

[[File:Aaai.JPG|thumb|Liquid with Spoon and pH Meter]]

== pH Meter Use for Non-Chemists ==

The proper use of a pH meter is not only quite important but includes many non-intuitive steps. Failing to follow simple rules can easily break the meter or make it seem faulty. I won't talk about calibration because it isn't actually important to have a very accurately calibrated meter for this separation procedure, just make sure to calibrate according to your manual.

What is essential:
* NEVER use it to stir
* NEVER bump the bulb at the end
* NEVER let the tip dry
* NEVER submerge it too deep

When you are not using the meter, either have it stored in 3M KCl or less ideally a buffer solution. '''If it dries, it dies.'''

* Use a pipette or glass dropper to start adding 10 or 12% ammonia at around 1 drop per second while stirring constantly (don't have to be exact about the timing). You can use a stainless steel or wood chopstick/spoon to stir. A magnetic stirrer works better, but an unnecessary investment if you don't already have one. The drops will immediately create a milky cloud that will dissipate through stirring. The milkiness will take longer to dissipate as more is added.

'''The Crucial Point - The pH Depression'''

Keep your eye on the PH looking for a "'''pH depression'''". While adding the ammonia will raise the pH anywhere from 0,01-0.04 per drop or two and stay completely stable if you stop adding the ammonia. As soon as the '''pH depression''' is reached then the pH will start to lower slowly, sometimes over 0.5 if you wait long enough. This '''first depression''' is the point in which the harmine is precipitating.

Take careful note of the pH that the depression starts at. This is the '''start point''' and your target it to get to that point +0.5. If your start point is 6.8 then your target is 7.3. While Mankse-purified and well-rinsed harmalas typically have start points between 6 and 7, if there is a little salt or sodium carbonate contamination then the '''start point''' can be up to 8.25 (all mine were 7.75+). In the case of a high '''start point''', separation will likely be less clean and filtering off a mixed-fraction is highly recommended.

The actual pH number is much less important than the observed '''pH depression'''. If your pH meter is not well calibrated, it technically could still work, just look for the depression even if it is at a different pH than those mentioned.

* As you're adding ammonia, the milky color change will take longer and longer to disappear as you get close to the '''pH depression''' point. Once you've observed a '''pH depression''' of at least 0.1, keep adding ammonia and the pH will either stabilize or very slowly rise. Continue adding drops until you reach the '''start point''' +0.5.

Note: A pH meter with only 0.1 resolution may result in you not necessarily seeing a drop in pH, but suddenly reaching a point where, for example, 7 drops would previously raise the pH by 0.1 but now it takes 20+ drops and the solution clouds rapidly. While 0.05 or 0,01 resolution is better, that observation would likely indicate a pH depression with a 0.1 resolution.

* At the '''start point +0.5''', you will see very obvious precipitation of a cocoa-powder colored sediment which falls to the bottom quite quickly, usually all of it within 10 minutes. This is your separated '''harmine''' and if done correctly will be 95% pure with only 5% harmaline. Filter the liquid into the glass jar/bottle through a clean coffee filter in a funnel to collect your harmine.
I like to decant around 95% of the liquid at the top and then use a new filter to pour the harmine through because harmaline tends to float more and take a long time to settle and I figure this helps a bit with the purity of the harmine.

'''-Rinse the brown powder with water or very dilute ammonia and dry it to claim your separated harmine.'''

* Return the liquid to the wide-mouth jar/beaker (rinse the jar/bottle with a bit of distilled water) and then it is time to get the harmaline.

'''What is a mixed fraction?'''

If you want to increase the purity, you can remove a mixed-fraction by raising the pH by 0.4 or 0.5 and then filtering off what is likely to be a mix of both harmine and harmaline. This mixed-fraction can be added to any later separation procedure you do, or used for Changa.

Whether a mixed fraction is done or not, the next steps are the same.

[[File:Aaaj.JPG|thumb|Harmaline Precipitate]]

* Start adding ammonia while looking for the '''second pH depression''' point. It is typically somewhere between 8.3 and 8.7 for Manske-cleaned harmalas (my water-washed ones were 8.8-9.1).
Once the depression '''start point''' is reached, the procedure is the same as before: Add lots of ammonia until the pH is 0.5 over the start point. You will notice that there is almost no milky color change when you are getting close to that pH.

The precipitated harmaline will be a lighter color, more like beach sand than cocoa and will both float longer and look a little like sparkly glitter.
Without a mixed fraction it could be around 92-94% pure, by removing the mixed fraction you could get 96% or purer harmaline.

'''- Rinse the light-brown powder with water or very dilute ammonia and dry it to claim your separated harmaline.'''

== Alkaloid Separation Cliff Notes ==

Prepare your liquid in a glass bottle:
* Water-washed only hamalas: 160ml total liquid (17ml 7% vinegar OR 24ml 5% vinegar per 3g, rest distilled water)
* Manske-purified harmalas: 200ml total liquid (21ml 7% vinegar OR 30ml 5% vinegar per 3g, rest distilled water)

'''Dissolve:'''
# Put your measured harmalas in a bowl
# Warm the bottle of vinegar-water in a pot
# Add boiling water slowly to pot over several minutes to heat vinegar-water
# Add 50% of the liquid to harmalas in bowl, stir 30+ sec, settle 1-2 min
# Use baster to transfer clear liquid of top through coffee filter into wide-mouth glass beaker—leave undissolved harmalas
# Repeat 4 & 5 with 50% of remaining liquid, then all remaining liquid
# Rinse bowl with a splash distilled water, filter

'''Separate Harmine:'''
# Insert pH meter
# Add ammonia dropwise (~1/sec) while stirring constantly
# Watch for FIRST pH depression—pH will drop slowly when you stop adding ammonia (Manske-purified harmalas are typically between 6-7, but water-washed ones can be up to 8.25)
# Note start of pH depression, continue adding ammonia until start pH +0.5
# Cocoa-colored harmine precipitates and settles quickly.
# ''Filter, rinse, dry to obtain harmine''

'''(Optional) Mixed Fraction:'''
* Raise pH another 0.4-0.5, filter off mix of harmine and harmaline

'''Separate Harmaline:'''
# Continue adding ammonia to remaining liquid
# Watch for SECOND pH depression (typically 8.3-8.7 with Manske-purified harmalas, water-washed ones can be up to 9.1)
# Add ammonia until depression start +0.5
# Lighter-brown harmaline precipitates.
# ''Filter, rinse, dry to obtain harmaline''

File:Aaaj.JPG

2026-03-07T22:31:35Z

Q21q21:

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2026-03-07T22:28:51Z

Q21q21:

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2026-03-07T22:25:41Z

Q21q21:

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2026-03-07T22:23:56Z

Q21q21:

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2026-03-07T22:22:43Z

Q21q21:

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2026-03-07T22:21:27Z

Q21q21:

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2026-03-07T22:17:09Z

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2026-03-07T22:13:31Z

Q21q21:

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2026-03-07T22:06:56Z

Q21q21:

Super-Easy No-Filter Harmalas Tek

2026-01-31T14:53:07Z

Q21q21:

[[image:Sdsadsadsa.JPG]]

_____________________
== Introduction ==

The core ideas in this tek are based on the posts by '''Ouro/Mydriasis, Brennendes Wasser & Gibran2'''. As with “my” DMT tek, I’m simply standing on the shoulders of giants and breaking down a method as comprehensively as I can for clarity.

The inspiration for writing this Tek is the no-filter strategy that replacing filtration with several washing and decanting steps.

With the exception of Gibran2’s tek on the wiki which explicitly advises against using Syrian Rue, the threads which mention this method have up 50-100x fewer views than the older rue teks on the wiki which from my personal experience can take 5-10 times longer than this one. Hopefully putting this on the wiki will help spread these ideas.

'''The purpose of this Tek is not getting a very high yield, it is low-effort, easy steps and getting pure harmalas.''' I’m personally very happy taking 5 – 12 hours to get a 2-3% yield compared to taking 2 to 4+ days full of slow messy high-effort filtration to get 5-7%.

'''The core features of the speedy tek are:'''
* Using whole Syrian Rue seeds rather than ground up ones.
* Freezing and thawing the seeds.
* Simmering, not boiling.
* Replacing filtering with water-washing and decanting.
* Only a single basing step to produce a pure product.

_____________________
== Procedure ==

Caution: Harmalas can be absorbed through the skin. Please keep children and pregnant women away from your extraction.

[[File:IMG_20260131_104442.jpg|thumb|Frozen Rue Seeds]]

- The night before the extraction starts, soak 100g of whole Syrian Rue seeds in at least 500ml of water and put it in the freezer until solid. My experiments suggest freezing increases the yield of the first boil by 2x or more.

Note: doing the tek with 200g or more totally could work. It mainly just changes the first washing step. Just use one large or multiple regular washing vessels before reducing the liquid volume enough to proceed just like a 100g batch starting with the 2nd wash.

[[File:11111.jpg|thumb|Simmering Rue Seeds]]

- You can thaw the ice-seeds mix slowly, or melt it on the stove top. Once thawed, add ~30ml vinegar and enough water to increase the volume to 1000ml and lightly simmer for 30-40 minutes. Add more fresh water halfway through the simmering to get it back to 1000ml to account for the evaporation. Do not fully boil it, that will only slow down the washing steps later by extracting more unwanted things from the seeds.

More time and/or water is fine, but don’t use less! My tests indicate that on the first boil: 
1. Using half as much water reduces the yield by around 50% 
2. Halving the boiling time reduces the yield by up to 50%

-After simmering, Separate the liquid from the seeds into a heat-safe container like a pot or jar to cool. A small mesh strainer pushed down on the seeds and turkey baster sucking up the liquid works best to get much of the liquid trapped between the seeds, but pouring the liquid through a mesh strainer is a perfectly fine second-best option if you’re careful.

[[File:Ghgfhgfhgfh.JPG|thumb|Straining Rue Seeds]]

- After separating the simmering liquid from the seeds, rinse them by adding enough tap water to make most of them float, then transfer that liquid into the same heat-safe container.

- Add 15ml more vinegar and enough water to the seeds to raise the level to 750ml and and simmer for 20 minutes. After simmering, separate the liquid from the seeds as before.

Note: A 3rd simmering step is perfectly fine to do, but will increase the volume of water making this no-reduce tek more difficult. Even the 2nd simmering step is optional. If you prefer to only work with a small amount of liquid and still get a 2-3% yield, just do the first 40 minutes simmer.

[[File:IMG 20260131 142109.jpg|thumb|Color Change from adding sodium Carbonate]]

- Combine both of the simmering liquids and after they've cooled enough for safety, transfer them using a funnel to a tall narrow container that we’ll call your “washing vessel”. Although a glass vessel with slick sides is best, a 2L milk jug or water bottle will suffice and should be easy for anyone to buy. Wider washing vessels are not recommended as tall narrow ones allow decanting significantly more liquid before sediments begin to be poured off.

Note: If your washing vessel is too small to fit all the liquid, you can simply use 2 vessels for the first washing step then pour off enough clear liquid from the top of each vessel to reduce the liquid enough to fit in one for the entire rest of the tek.

- Add a concentrated sodium-carbonate-in-water solution to the liquid in your washing vessel and stir. You will immediately see a color change from red-brown to sand-colored. Continue adding the sodium carbonate solution and stirring until adding it no longer results in a color change. Try not to add a large excess of sodium carbonate, but you don’t have to be too careful about it.

Note: Sodium carbonate can be bought as washing soda, or produced by baking baking soda in an oven for 1-2 hours @ 200°C OR cooking it in a dry pan for 20-30 minutes on medium-high heat until the gas bubbles stop

- You will likely see some dusty harmalas settling at the bottom of the washing vessel after a couple minutes. Place the vessel into the fridge for the harmalas to settle completely to the bottom.

At this point you technically could filter the liquid progressively through cotton balls then a coffee filter and then wash it several time to get a pure product. This is a valid option that will work; however, this is not the relatively unknown method that inspired me to write this tek, nor is it recommended.

The recommended purification & separation method requires some explanation behind the core concept and a crucial choice in terms of how speedy you want your first batch of dry harmalas to be retrieved.

First thing to know is: freebase harmalas are nearly insoluble in water, so washing them repeatedly results in very few losses and this washing serves to lower the amount of base and Syrian Rue tea's co-extractives to levels enough to be negligible in your end product. Analysis by Brennendes Wasser shows that washing 4 times can lead to a pure product, but realistically 5-7 washes is recommended.

Second thing to know is: the settling of freebase harmalas in a solution takes a while. Based on my observations in my 1.5L glass container:
30 minutes in the fridge – the bulk of harmalas have settled, but much of the particulates are still visibly floating
1 hour in the fridge – the top half of the liquid is mostly clear, but the bottom half has some floating particulates
2 hours in the fridge – the majority of the particulates have all settled, just a bit of them are still floating
2.5+ hours in the fridge – all particulates have fully settled

Note: settling outside the fridge slows the settling to some degree. Also, the first settling is notably slower than all subsequent ones.

The washing process requires 2 nearly identical retrieval procedures:
1. The bulk-product retrieval
2. The carryover loss retrieval.

When doing the bulk-product retrieval:
If one wanted a very rushed 50-60% bulk product, then 4 or 5 washes with 30 minutes settling periods would definitely achieve that.
A good mix between quick product and yield is 1 hour settling periods where around 70-75% might be retained after all the washes.
Of course, as the mix settles longer, carryover “losses” from the decanting will be reduced but never zero.

I should make it clear that “losses” are in quotations, because they are not actually lost, but just retrieved later in the carryover loss retrieval.
A relaxed and effective approach, which I typically do, is to perform 2–3 washes per day, allowing longer settling periods (overnight or throughout the day). This minimizes effort while still achieving a clean product.

Anyway, on to the specific steps of the recommended purification & separation method:

== Process 1: Bulk Product Retrieval ==

[[File:Aaaaaaa.JPG|thumb|Washing and Decanting Cycle]]

After your chosen amount of settling time:
1. Carefully pick up the washing vessel with the settled harmalas and very slowly pour around 90% of the liquid out of the vessel into a large container like a bucket . As long as it is done slowly then the majority of the harmala should all be left sitting at the bottom. When the bottom sediment is about halfway up the side is typically a good time to stop pouring.
2. After decanting the water, you should be left with a very muddy-looking mix at the bottom.
3. Add fresh tap water, filling the liquid up close to the top.
4. Return the washing vessel to the fridge to settle

- The 4 steps above must be repeated at least 4 times, ideally 5 to 7.

[[File:Rgfdfd.jpg|thumb|Drying Washed Harmalas]]

- After the last washing, pour the harmalas/water onto a heat-safe plate or baking dish and evaporate in a very low oven or on the stovetop on minimum setting until the harmalas are dry.

[[File:Fgfdg.jpg|thumb|Scraping Up Dry Harmalas]]

[[File:56546.jpg|thumb|2.3g of Dried Harmalas]]

- After cooling use a razor blade to scrape up your harmalas into a small vial or plastic bag and store in a cool dry place.

As noted earlier, while further purification steps can surely be done, analysis by Brennendes Wasser show that they are likely unnecessary. The harmalas theoretically should be ready to use for changa or pharmahuasca.

== Process 2: Carryover Loss Retrieval ==

[[File:Dfdsfdsfds.jpg|thumb|Decanted Water with Carryover Loss Harmalas at the Bottom]]

Note: the "bucket" I used is much smaller than what is recommended, I needed to frequently pour of 50% of the liquid to stop it from overflowing.

Your bucket/large container will contain a bunch of water and your carryover loss harmalas at the bottom. Because you already retrieved the bulk of your harmalas AND the fact that the harmalas will naturally be the finer more whispy ones, the return on invested time is going to be significantly lower than the bulk-method from before. The fine whispy harmalas will take longer to settle so make sure to allow 3+ hours for all washes.

- After settling, simply pour/scoop off the top until you have reduced the water to enough to transfer it into your previous washing vessel. Then do 3-4 decanting-washing cycles, pour and dry your harmalas and retried the “losses” from before.

You can do another loss retrieval, but logistically your harmalas gained would be extremely low. I recommend discarding the clear liquid decanted from the carryover retrieval procedure.

== Optional Alkaloid Seperation ==

If you would like to separate the main alkaloids of the harmalas, harmine & harmaline, you have 2 options.

Note The black "gunk" in these processes is actually harmalas that are chemically insoluble in vinegar, according to Brennendes Wasser's analysis. There will likely be a ~20% loss of this gunky harmala product during the process as a result, but these harmalas have unknown effects when consumed at the moment.

'''Option 1: No PH meter'''

'''Part A: Getting the harmine'''
* Redissolve the harmalas in vinegar and let the black gunk settle to the bottom
* Decant the liquid from the top, add some more water and let it settle once more
* Decant the liquid from the top, adding it to the previosly decanted liquid.
* Filter the liquid through a cotton ball, keeping the liquid and discarding any sediments. Add ~20ml of water to rinse the liquid out of the cotton ball.
* To the filtered liquid, add a solution of baking soda and water while stirring until adding it results in no color change/precipitation. An excess is okay.
* Let the precipitate settle in the container. Ideally in the fridge.
* Decant and filter the liquid through a coffee filter (slower) or facial tissue (quicker). Rinse the filter with water, letting it drip through to the liquid below.
* Carefully move the filter to a large-mouth container or pot and use water to rinse all the sediments off of it.
* You will now have mostly-pure harmine in the water. You can filter and dry it or do 1-2 washing cycles and dry it like in the main tek to retrieve your product.

'''Part B: Getting the harmaline'''

* To the filtered liquid you removed the harmaline from, add a solution of sodium carbonate while stirring until the color no longer changes.
* Let the precipitate settle in the container. Ideally in the fridge.
* You can either filter and rinse the precipitate as with the harmine, or do 4+ washing cycles to remove the excess base as was done in the main tek.
* Whichever method used, after drying, this is your second separated product. The filtered precipitate should be mainly harmaline, but is quite likely to have some harmine as well.

'''Option 2: Using a PH meter'''

'''Part A: Getting the harmine'''
* Redissolve the harmalas in vinegar and let the black gunk settle to the bottom
* Decant the liquid from the top, add some more water and let it settle once more
* Decant the liquid from the top, adding it to the previosly decanted liquid.
* Filter the liquid through a cotton ball, keeping the liquid and discarding any sediments. Add ~20ml of water to rinse the liquid out of the cotton ball.
* Add a solution of sodium carbonate and water while stirring until a steady 8.5 PH is achieved.
* Let the precipitate settle in the container. Ideally in the fridge.
* Decant and filter the liquid through a coffee filter (slower) or facial tissue (quicker). Rinse the filter with water, letting it drip through to the liquid below.
* Carefully move the filter to a large-mouth container or pot and use water to rinse all the sediments off of it.
* You will now have mostly-pure harmine in the water. You can filter and dry it or do 1-2 washing cycles and dry it like in the main tek to retrieve your product.

'''Part B: Getting the harmaline'''
* To the filtered liquid you removed the harmaline from, add a solution of sodium carbonate while stirring until the color no longer changes.
* Let the precipitate settle in the container. Ideally in the fridge.
* You can either filter and rinse the precipitate as with the harmine, or do 4+ washing cycles to remove the excess base as was done in the main tek.
* Whichever method used, after drying, this is your second separated product. The filtered precipitate should be mainly harmaline, but is quite likely to have some harmine as well.

Note: If you require higher purity harmaline, an intermediate precipitate should be removed at 9.1PH which will be a mix of harmine and harmaline, then fully raising the PH with sodium carbonate will precipitate mostly-pure harmaline (credit to Endlessness for this tip)

Super-Easy No-Filter Harmalas Tek

2026-01-31T14:42:06Z

Q21q21:

[[image:Sdsadsadsa.JPG]]

_____________________
== Introduction ==

The core ideas in this tek are based on the posts by '''Ouro/Mydriasis, Brennendes Wasser & Gibran2'''. As with “my” DMT tek, I’m simply standing on the shoulders of giants and breaking down a method as comprehensively as I can for clarity.

The inspiration for writing this Tek is the no-filter strategy that replacing filtration with several washing and decanting steps.

With the exception of Gibran2’s tek on the wiki which explicitly advises against using Syrian Rue, the threads which mention this method have up 50-100x fewer views than the older rue teks on the wiki which from my personal experience can take 5-10 times longer than this one. Hopefully putting this on the wiki will help spread these ideas.

'''The purpose of this Tek is not getting a very high yield, it is low-effort, easy steps resulting in pure harmalas.''' I’m personally very happy taking 5 – 12 hours to get a 2-3% yield compared to taking 2 to 4+ days full of slow messy high-effort filtration to get 5-7%.

'''The core features of the speedy tek are:'''
* Using whole Syrian Rue seeds rather than ground up ones.
* Freezing and thawing the seeds.
* Simmering, not boiling.
* Replacing filtering with water-washing and decanting.
* Only a single basing step to produce a pure product.

_____________________
== Procedure ==

Caution: Harmalas can be absorbed through the skin. Please keep children and pregnant women away from your extraction.

[[File:IMG_20260131_104442.jpg|thumb|Frozen Rue Seeds]]

- The night before the extraction starts, soak 100g of whole Syrian Rue seeds in at least 500ml of water and put it in the freezer until solid. My experiments suggest freezing increases the yield of the first boil by 2x or more.

Note: doing the tek with 200g or more totally could work. It mainly just changes the first washing step. Just use one large or multiple regular washing vessels before reducing the liquid volume enough to proceed just like a 100g batch starting with the 2nd wash.

[[File:11111.jpg|thumb|Simmering Rue Seeds]]

- You can thaw the ice-seeds mix slowly, or melt it on the stove top. Once thawed, add ~30ml vinegar and enough water to increase the volume to 1000ml and lightly simmer for 30-40 minutes. Add more fresh water halfway through the simmering to get it back to 1000ml to account for the evaporation. Do not fully boil it, that will only slow down the washing steps later by extracting more unwanted things from the seeds.

More time and/or water is fine, but don’t use less! My tests indicate that on the first boil: 
1. Using half as much water reduces the yield by around 50% 
2. Halving the boiling time reduces the yield by up to 50%

-After simmering, Separate the liquid from the seeds into a heat-safe container like a pot or jar to cool. A small mesh strainer pushed down on the seeds and turkey baster sucking up the liquid works best to get much of the liquid trapped between the seeds, but pouring the liquid through a mesh strainer is a perfectly fine second-best option if you’re careful.

[[File:Ghgfhgfhgfh.JPG|thumb|Straining Rue Seeds]]

- After separating the simmering liquid from the seeds, rinse them by adding enough tap water to make most of them float, then transfer that liquid into the same heat-safe container.

- Add 15ml more vinegar and enough water to the seeds to raise the level to 750ml and and simmer for 20 minutes. After simmering, separate the liquid from the seeds as before.

Note: A 3rd simmering step is perfectly fine to do, but will increase the volume of water making this no-reduce tek more difficult. Even the 2nd simmering step is optional. If you prefer to only work with a small amount of liquid and still get a 2-3% yield, just do the first 40 minutes simmer.

[[File:IMG 20260131 142109.jpg|thumb|Color Change from adding sodium Carbonate]]

- Combine both of the simmering liquids and after they've cooled enough for safety, transfer them using a funnel to a tall narrow container that we’ll call your “washing vessel”. Although a glass vessel with slick sides is best, a 2L milk jug or water bottle will suffice and should be easy for anyone to buy. Wider washing vessels are not recommended as tall narrow ones allow decanting significantly more liquid before sediments begin to be poured off.

Note: If your washing vessel is too small to fit all the liquid, you can simply use 2 vessels for the first washing step then pour off enough clear liquid from the top of each vessel to reduce the liquid enough to fit in one for the entire rest of the tek.

- Add a concentrated sodium-carbonate-in-water solution to the liquid in your washing vessel and stir. You will immediately see a color change from red-brown to sand-colored. Continue adding the sodium carbonate solution and stirring until adding it no longer results in a color change. Try not to add a large excess of sodium carbonate, but you don’t have to be too careful about it.

Note: Sodium carbonate can be bought as washing soda, or produced by baking baking soda in an oven for 1-2 hours @ 200°C OR cooking it in a dry pan for 20-30 minutes on medium-high heat until the gas bubbles stop

- You will likely see some dusty harmalas settling at the bottom of the washing vessel after a couple minutes. Place the vessel into the fridge for the harmalas to settle completely to the bottom.

At this point you technically could filter the liquid progressively through cotton balls then a coffee filter and then wash it several time to get a pure product. This is a valid option that will work; however, this is not the relatively unknown method that inspired me to write this tek, nor is it recommended.

The recommended purification & separation method requires some explanation behind the core concept and a crucial choice in terms of how speedy you want your first batch of dry harmalas to be retrieved.

First thing to know is: freebase harmalas are nearly insoluble in water, so washing them repeatedly results in very few losses and this washing serves to lower the amount of base and Syrian Rue tea's co-extractives to levels enough to be negligible in your end product. Analysis by Brennendes Wasser shows that washing 4 times can lead to a pure product, but realistically 5-7 washes is recommended.

Second thing to know is: the settling of freebase harmalas in a solution takes a while. Based on my observations in my 1.5L glass container:
30 minutes in the fridge – the bulk of harmalas have settled, but much of the particulates are still visibly floating
1 hour in the fridge – the top half of the liquid is mostly clear, but the bottom half has some floating particulates
2 hours in the fridge – the majority of the particulates have all settled, just a bit of them are still floating
2.5+ hours in the fridge – all particulates have fully settled

Note: settling outside the fridge slows the settling to some degree. Also, the first settling is notably slower than all subsequent ones.

The washing process requires 2 nearly identical retrieval procedures:
1. The bulk-product retrieval
2. The carryover loss retrieval.

When doing the bulk-product retrieval:
If one wanted a very rushed 50-60% bulk product, then 4 or 5 washes with 30 minutes settling periods would definitely achieve that.
A good mix between quick product and yield is 1 hour settling periods where around 70-75% might be retained after all the washes.
Of course, as the mix settles longer, carryover “losses” from the decanting will be reduced but never zero.

I should make it clear that “losses” are in quotations, because they are not actually lost, but just retrieved later in the carryover loss retrieval.
A relaxed and effective approach, which I typically do, is to perform 2–3 washes per day, allowing longer settling periods (overnight or throughout the day). This minimizes effort while still achieving a clean product.

Anyway, on to the specific steps of the recommended purification & separation method:

== Process 1: Bulk Product Retrieval ==

[[File:Aaaaaaa.JPG|thumb|Washing and Decanting Cycle]]

After your chosen amount of settling time:
1. Carefully pick up the washing vessel with the settled harmalas and very slowly pour around 90% of the liquid out of the vessel into a large container like a bucket . As long as it is done slowly then the majority of the harmala should all be left sitting at the bottom. When the bottom sediment is about halfway up the side is typically a good time to stop pouring.
2. After decanting the water, you should be left with a very muddy-looking mix at the bottom.
3. Add fresh tap water, filling the liquid up close to the top.
4. Return the washing vessel to the fridge to settle

- The 4 steps above must be repeated at least 4 times, ideally 5 to 7.

[[File:Rgfdfd.jpg|thumb|Drying Washed Harmalas]]

- After the last washing, pour the harmalas/water onto a heat-safe plate or baking dish and evaporate in a very low oven or on the stovetop on minimum setting until the harmalas are dry.

[[File:Fgfdg.jpg|thumb|Scraping Up Dry Harmalas]]

[[File:56546.jpg|thumb|2.3g of Dried Harmalas]]

- After cooling use a razor blade to scrape up your harmalas into a small vial or plastic bag and store in a cool dry place.

As noted earlier, while further purification steps can surely be done, analysis by Brennendes Wasser show that they are likely unnecessary. The harmalas theoretically should be ready to use for changa or pharmahuasca.

== Process 2: Carryover Loss Retrieval ==

[[File:Dfdsfdsfds.jpg|thumb|Decanted Water with Carryover Loss Harmalas at the Bottom]]

Note: the "bucket" I used is much smaller than what is recommended, I needed to frequently pour of 50% of the liquid to stop it from overflowing.

Your bucket/large container will contain a bunch of water and your carryover loss harmalas at the bottom. Because you already retrieved the bulk of your harmalas AND the fact that the harmalas will naturally be the finer more whispy ones, the return on invested time is going to be significantly lower than the bulk-method from before. The fine whispy harmalas will take longer to settle so make sure to allow 3+ hours for all washes.

- After settling, simply pour/scoop off the top until you have reduced the water to enough to transfer it into your previous washing vessel. Then do 3-4 decanting-washing cycles, pour and dry your harmalas and retried the “losses” from before.

You can do another loss retrieval, but logistically your harmalas gained would be extremely low. I recommend discarding the clear liquid decanted from the carryover retrieval procedure.

== Optional Alkaloid Seperation ==

If you would like to separate the main alkaloids of the harmalas, harmine & harmaline, you have 2 options.

Note The black "gunk" in these processes is actually harmalas that are chemically insoluble in vinegar, according to Brennendes Wasser's analysis. There will likely be a ~20% loss of this gunky harmala product during the process as a result, but these harmalas have unknown effects when consumed at the moment.

'''Option 1: No PH meter'''

'''Part A: Getting the harmine'''
* Redissolve the harmalas in vinegar and let the black gunk settle to the bottom
* Decant the liquid from the top, add some more water and let it settle once more
* Decant the liquid from the top, adding it to the previosly decanted liquid.
* Filter the liquid through a cotton ball, keeping the liquid and discarding any sediments. Add ~20ml of water to rinse the liquid out of the cotton ball.
* To the filtered liquid, add a solution of baking soda and water while stirring until adding it results in no color change/precipitation. An excess is okay.
* Let the precipitate settle in the container. Ideally in the fridge.
* Decant and filter the liquid through a coffee filter (slower) or facial tissue (quicker). Rinse the filter with water, letting it drip through to the liquid below.
* Carefully move the filter to a large-mouth container or pot and use water to rinse all the sediments off of it.
* You will now have mostly-pure harmine in the water. You can filter and dry it or do 1-2 washing cycles and dry it like in the main tek to retrieve your product.

'''Part B: Getting the harmaline'''

* To the filtered liquid you removed the harmaline from, add a solution of sodium carbonate while stirring until the color no longer changes.
* Let the precipitate settle in the container. Ideally in the fridge.
* You can either filter and rinse the precipitate as with the harmine, or do 4+ washing cycles to remove the excess base as was done in the main tek.
* Whichever method used, after drying, this is your second separated product. The filtered precipitate should be mainly harmaline, but is quite likely to have some harmine as well.

'''Option 2: Using a PH meter'''

'''Part A: Getting the harmine'''
* Redissolve the harmalas in vinegar and let the black gunk settle to the bottom
* Decant the liquid from the top, add some more water and let it settle once more
* Decant the liquid from the top, adding it to the previosly decanted liquid.
* Filter the liquid through a cotton ball, keeping the liquid and discarding any sediments. Add ~20ml of water to rinse the liquid out of the cotton ball.
* Add a solution of sodium carbonate and water while stirring until a steady 8.5 PH is achieved.
* Let the precipitate settle in the container. Ideally in the fridge.
* Decant and filter the liquid through a coffee filter (slower) or facial tissue (quicker). Rinse the filter with water, letting it drip through to the liquid below.
* Carefully move the filter to a large-mouth container or pot and use water to rinse all the sediments off of it.
* You will now have mostly-pure harmine in the water. You can filter and dry it or do 1-2 washing cycles and dry it like in the main tek to retrieve your product.

'''Part B: Getting the harmaline'''
* To the filtered liquid you removed the harmaline from, add a solution of sodium carbonate while stirring until the color no longer changes.
* Let the precipitate settle in the container. Ideally in the fridge.
* You can either filter and rinse the precipitate as with the harmine, or do 4+ washing cycles to remove the excess base as was done in the main tek.
* Whichever method used, after drying, this is your second separated product. The filtered precipitate should be mainly harmaline, but is quite likely to have some harmine as well.

Note: If you require higher purity harmaline, an intermediate precipitate should be removed at 9.1PH which will be a mix of harmine and harmaline, then fully raising the PH with sodium carbonate will precipitate mostly-pure harmaline (credit to Endlessness for this tip)

Super-Easy No-Filter Harmalas Tek

2026-01-31T12:52:52Z

Q21q21:

[[image:Sdsadsadsa.JPG]]

_____________________
== Introduction ==

The core ideas in this tek are based on the posts by '''Ouro/Mydriasis, Brennendes Wasser & Gibran2'''. As with “my” DMT tek, I’m simply standing on the shoulders of giants and breaking down a method as comprehensively as I can for clarity.

The inspiration for writing this Tek is the no-filter strategy that replacing filtration with several washing and decanting steps.

With the exception of Gibran2’s tek on the wiki which explicitly advises against using Syrian Rue, the threads which mention this method have up 50-100x fewer views than the older rue teks on the wiki which from my personal experience can take 5-10 times longer than this one. Hopefully putting this on the wiki will help spread these ideas.

'''The purpose of this Tek is not getting a very high yield, it is low-effort, easy steps resulting in pure harmalas.''' I’m personally very happy taking 5 – 12 hours to get a 2-3% yield compared to taking 2 to 4+ days full of slow messy high-effort filtration to get 5-7%.

'''The core features of the speedy tek are:'''
* Using whole Syrian Rue seeds rather than ground up ones.
* Freezing and thawing the seeds.
* Simmering, not boiling.
* Replacing filtering with water-washing and decanting.
* Only a single basing step to produce a pure product.

_____________________
== Procedure ==

Caution: Harmalas can be absorbed through the skin. Please keep children and pregnant women away from your extraction.

[[File:IMG_20260131_104442.jpg|thumb|Frozen Rue Seeds]]

- The night before the extraction starts, soak 100g of whole Syrian Rue seeds in at least 500ml of water and put it in the freezer until solid. My experiments suggest freezing increases the yield of the first boil by 2x or more.

Note: doing the tek with 200g or more totally could work. It mainly just changes the first washing step. Just use one large or multiple regular washing vessels before reducing the liquid volume enough to proceed just like a 100g batch starting with the 2nd wash.

[[File:11111.jpg|thumb|Simmering Rue Seeds]]

- You can thaw the ice-seeds mix slowly, or melt it on the stove top. Once thawed, add ~30ml vinegar and enough water to increase the volume to 1000ml and lightly simmer for 30-40 minutes. Add more fresh water halfway through the simmering to get it back to 1000ml to account for the evaporation. Do not fully boil it, that will only slow down the washing steps later by extracting more unwanted things from the seeds.

More time and/or water is fine, but don’t use less! My tests indicate that on the first boil:
1. Using half as much water reduces the yield by around 50%
2. Halving the boiling time reduces the yield by up to 50%

-After simmering, Separate the liquid from the seeds into a heat-safe container like a pot or jar to cool. A small mesh strainer pushed down on the seeds and turkey baster sucking up the liquid works best to get much of the liquid trapped between the seeds, but pouring the liquid through a mesh strainer is a perfectly fine second-best option if you’re careful.

[[File:Ghgfhgfhgfh.JPG|thumb|Straining Rue Seeds]]

- After separating the simmering liquid from the seeds, rinse them by adding enough tap water to make most of them float, then transfer that liquid into the same heat-safe container.

- Add 15ml more vinegar and enough water to the seeds to raise the level to 750ml and and simmer for 20 minutes. After simmering, separate the liquid from the seeds as before.

Note: A 3rd simmering step is perfectly fine to do, but will increase the volume of water making this no-reduce tek more difficult. Even the 2nd simmering step is optional. If you prefer to only work with a small amount of liquid and still get a 2-3% yield, just do the first 40 minutes simmer.

[[File:IMG 20260131 142109.jpg|thumb|Color Change from adding sodium Carbonate]]

- Combine both of the simmering liquids and after they've cooled enough for safety, transfer them using a funnel to a tall narrow container that we’ll call your “washing vessel”. Although a glass vessel with slick sides is best, a 2L milk jug or water bottle will suffice and should be easy for anyone to buy. Wider washing vessels are not recommended as tall narrow ones allow decanting significantly more liquid before sediments begin to be poured off.

Note: If your washing vessel is too small to fit all the liquid, you can simply use 2 vessels for the first washing step then pour off enough clear liquid from the top of each vessel to reduce the liquid enough to fit in one for the entire rest of the tek.

- Add a concentrated sodium-carbonate-in-water solution to the liquid in your washing vessel and stir. You will immediately see a color change from red-brown to sand-colored. Continue adding the sodium carbonate solution and stirring until adding it no longer results in a color change. Try not to add a large excess of sodium carbonate, but you don’t have to be too careful about it.

Note: Sodium carbonate can be bought as washing soda, or produced by baking baking soda in an oven for 1-2 hours @ 200°C OR cooking it in a dry pan for 20-30 minutes on medium-high heat until the gas bubbles stop

- You will likely see some dusty harmalas settling at the bottom of the washing vessel after a couple minutes. Place the vessel into the fridge for the harmalas to settle completely to the bottom.

At this point you technically could filter the liquid progressively through cotton balls then a coffee filter and then wash it several time to get a pure product. This is a valid option that will work; however, this is not the relatively unknown method that inspired me to write this tek, nor is it recommended.

The recommended purification & separation method requires some explanation behind the core concept and a crucial choice in terms of how speedy you want your first batch of dry harmalas to be retrieved.

First thing to know is: freebase harmalas are nearly insoluble in water, so washing them repeatedly results in very few losses and this washing serves to lower the amount of base and Syrian Rue tea's co-extractives to levels enough to be negligible in your end product. Analysis by Brennendes Wasser shows that washing 4 times can lead to a pure product, but realistically 5-7 washes is recommended.

Second thing to know is: the settling of freebase harmalas in a solution takes a while. Based on my observations in my 1.5L glass container:
30 minutes in the fridge – the bulk of harmalas have settled, but much of the particulates are still visibly floating
1 hour in the fridge – the top half of the liquid is mostly clear, but the bottom half has some floating particulates
2 hours in the fridge – the majority of the particulates have all settled, just a bit of them are still floating
2.5+ hours in the fridge – all particulates have fully settled

Note: settling outside the fridge slows the settling to some degree. Also, the first settling is notably slower than all subsequent ones.

The washing process requires 2 nearly identical retrieval procedures:
1. The bulk-product retrieval
2. The carryover loss retrieval.

When doing the bulk-product retrieval:
If one wanted a very rushed 50-60% bulk product, then 4 or 5 washes with 30 minutes settling periods would definitely achieve that.
A good mix between quick product and yield is 1 hour settling periods where around 70-75% might be retained after all the washes.
Of course, as the mix settles longer, carryover “losses” from the decanting will be reduced but never zero.

I should make it clear that “losses” are in quotations, because they are not actually lost, but just retrieved later in the carryover loss retrieval.
A relaxed and effective approach, which I typically do, is to perform 2–3 washes per day, allowing longer settling periods (overnight or throughout the day). This minimizes effort while still achieving a clean product.

Anyway, on to the specific steps of the recommended purification & separation method:

== Process 1: Bulk Product Retrieval ==

[[File:Aaaaaaa.JPG|thumb|Washing and Decanting Cycle]]

After your chosen amount of settling time:
1. Carefully pick up the washing vessel with the settled harmalas and very slowly pour around 90% of the liquid out of the vessel into a large container like a bucket . As long as it is done slowly then the majority of the harmala should all be left sitting at the bottom. When the bottom sediment is about halfway up the side is typically a good time to stop pouring.
2. After decanting the water, you should be left with a very muddy-looking mix at the bottom.
3. Add fresh tap water, filling the liquid up close to the top.
4. Return the washing vessel to the fridge to settle

- The 4 steps above must be repeated at least 4 times, ideally 5 to 7.

[[File:Rgfdfd.jpg|thumb|Drying Washed Harmalas]]

- After the last washing, pour the harmalas/water onto a heat-safe plate or baking dish and evaporate in a very low oven or on the stovetop on minimum setting until the harmalas are dry.

[[File:Fgfdg.jpg|thumb|Scraping Up Dry Harmalas]]

[[File:56546.jpg|thumb|2.3g of Dried Harmalas]]

- After cooling use a razor blade to scrape up your harmalas into a small vial or plastic bag and store in a cool dry place.

As noted earlier, while further purification steps can surely be done, analysis by Brennendes Wasser show that they are likely unnecessary. The harmalas theoretically should be ready to use for changa or pharmahuasca.

== Process 2: Carryover Loss Retrieval ==

[[File:Dfdsfdsfds.jpg|thumb|Decanted Water with Carryover Loss Harmalas at the Bottom]]

Note: the "bucket" I used is much smaller than what is recommended, I needed to frequently pour of 50% of the liquid to stop it from overflowing.

Your bucket/large container will contain a bunch of water and your carryover loss harmalas at the bottom. Because you already retrieved the bulk of your harmalas AND the fact that the harmalas will naturally be the finer more whispy ones, the return on invested time is going to be significantly lower than the bulk-method from before. The fine whispy harmalas will take longer to settle so make sure to allow 3+ hours for all washes.

- After settling, simply pour/scoop off the top until you have reduced the water to enough to transfer it into your previous washing vessel. Then do 3-4 decanting-washing cycles, pour and dry your harmalas and retried the “losses” from before.

You can do another loss retrieval, but logistically your harmalas gained would be extremely low. I recommend discarding the clear liquid decanted from the carryover retrieval procedure.

== Optional Alkaloid Seperation ==

If you would like to separate the main alkaloids of the harmalas, harmine & harmaline, you have 2 options.

Note The black "gunk" in these processes is actually harmalas that are chemically insoluble in vinegar, according to Brennendes Wasser's analysis. There will likely be a ~20% loss of this gunky harmala product during the process as a result, but these harmalas have unknown effects when consumed at the moment.

'''Option 1: No PH meter'''

'''Part A: Getting the harmine'''
* Redissolve the harmalas in vinegar and let the black gunk settle to the bottom
* Decant the liquid from the top, add some more water and let it settle once more
* Decant the liquid from the top, adding it to the previosly decanted liquid.
* Filter the liquid through a cotton ball, keeping the liquid and discarding any sediments. Add ~20ml of water to rinse the liquid out of the cotton ball.
* To the filtered liquid, add a solution of baking soda and water while stirring until adding it results in no color change/precipitation. An excess is okay.
* Let the precipitate settle in the container. Ideally in the fridge.
* Decant and filter the liquid through a coffee filter (slower) or facial tissue (quicker). Rinse the filter with water, letting it drip through to the liquid below.
* Carefully move the filter to a large-mouth container or pot and use water to rinse all the sediments off of it.
* You will now have mostly-pure harmine in the water. You can filter and dry it or do 1-2 washing cycles and dry it like in the main tek to retrieve your product.

'''Part B: Getting the harmaline'''

* To the filtered liquid you removed the harmaline from, add a solution of sodium carbonate while stirring until the color no longer changes.
* Let the precipitate settle in the container. Ideally in the fridge.
* You can either filter and rinse the precipitate as with the harmine, or do 4+ washing cycles to remove the excess base as was done in the main tek.
* Whichever method used, after drying, this is your second separated product. The filtered precipitate should be mainly harmaline, but is quite likely to have some harmine as well.

'''Option 2: Using a PH meter'''

'''Part A: Getting the harmine'''
* Redissolve the harmalas in vinegar and let the black gunk settle to the bottom
* Decant the liquid from the top, add some more water and let it settle once more
* Decant the liquid from the top, adding it to the previosly decanted liquid.
* Filter the liquid through a cotton ball, keeping the liquid and discarding any sediments. Add ~20ml of water to rinse the liquid out of the cotton ball.
* Add a solution of sodium carbonate and water while stirring until a steady 8.5 PH is achieved.
* Let the precipitate settle in the container. Ideally in the fridge.
* Decant and filter the liquid through a coffee filter (slower) or facial tissue (quicker). Rinse the filter with water, letting it drip through to the liquid below.
* Carefully move the filter to a large-mouth container or pot and use water to rinse all the sediments off of it.
* You will now have mostly-pure harmine in the water. You can filter and dry it or do 1-2 washing cycles and dry it like in the main tek to retrieve your product.

'''Part B: Getting the harmaline'''
* To the filtered liquid you removed the harmaline from, add a solution of sodium carbonate while stirring until the color no longer changes.
* Let the precipitate settle in the container. Ideally in the fridge.
* You can either filter and rinse the precipitate as with the harmine, or do 4+ washing cycles to remove the excess base as was done in the main tek.
* Whichever method used, after drying, this is your second separated product. The filtered precipitate should be mainly harmaline, but is quite likely to have some harmine as well.

Note: If you require higher purity harmaline, an intermediate precipitate should be removed at 9.1PH which will be a mix of harmine and harmaline, then fully raising the PH with sodium carbonate will precipitate mostly-pure harmaline (credit to Endlessness for this tip)

Super-Easy No-Filter Harmalas Tek

2026-01-31T12:48:45Z

Q21q21:

[[image:Sdsadsadsa.JPG]]

_____________________
== Introduction ==

The core ideas in this tek are based on the posts by Ouro/Mydriasis, Brennendes Wasser & Gibran2. As with “my” DMT tek, I’m simply standing on the shoulders of giants and breaking down a method as comprehensively as I can for clarity.

The inspiration for writing this Tek is the no-filter strategy that replacing filtration with several washing and decanting steps.

With the exception of Gibran2’s tek on the wiki which explicitly advises against using Syrian Rue, the threads which mention this method have up 50-100x fewer views than the older rue teks on the wiki which from my personal experience can take 5-10 times longer than this one. Hopefully putting this on the wiki will help spread these ideas.

The purpose of this Tek is not getting a very high yield, it is low-effort, easy steps resulting in pure harmalas. I’m personally very happy taking 5 – 12 hours to get a 2-3% yield compared to taking 2 to 4+ days full of slow messy high-effort filtration to get 5-7%.

'''The core features of the speedy tek are:'''
* Using whole Syrian Rue seeds rather than ground up ones.
* Freezing and thawing the seeds.
* Simmering, not boiling.
* Replacing filtering with water-washing and decanting.
* Only a single basing step to produce a pure product.

_____________________
== Procedure ==

Caution: Harmalas can be absorbed through the skin. Please keep children and pregnant women away from your extraction.

[[File:IMG_20260131_104442.jpg|thumb|Frozen Rue Seeds]]

- The night before the extraction starts, soak 100g of whole Syrian Rue seeds in at least 500ml of water and put it in the freezer until solid. My experiments suggest freezing increases the yield of the first boil by 2x or more.

Note: doing the tek with 200g or more totally could work. It mainly just changes the first washing step. Just use one large or multiple regular washing vessels before reducing the liquid volume enough to proceed just like a 100g batch starting with the 2nd wash.

[[File:11111.jpg|thumb|Simmering Rue Seeds]]

- You can thaw the ice-seeds mix slowly, or melt it on the stove top. Once thawed, add ~30ml vinegar and enough water to increase the volume to 1000ml and lightly simmer for 30-40 minutes. Add more fresh water halfway through the simmering to get it back to 1000ml to account for the evaporation. Do not fully boil it, that will only slow down the washing steps later by extracting more unwanted things from the seeds.

More time and/or water is fine, but don’t use less! My tests indicate that on the first boil:
1. Using half as much water reduces the yield by around 50%
2. Halving the boiling time reduces the yield by up to 50%

-After simmering, Separate the liquid from the seeds into a heat-safe container like a pot or jar to cool. A small mesh strainer pushed down on the seeds and turkey baster sucking up the liquid works best to get much of the liquid trapped between the seeds, but pouring the liquid through a mesh strainer is a perfectly fine second-best option if you’re careful.

[[File:Ghgfhgfhgfh.JPG|thumb|Straining Rue Seeds]]

- After separating the simmering liquid from the seeds, rinse them by adding enough tap water to make most of them float, then transfer that liquid into the same heat-safe container.

- Add 15ml more vinegar and enough water to the seeds to raise the level to 750ml and and simmer for 20 minutes. After simmering, separate the liquid from the seeds as before.

Note: A 3rd simmering step is perfectly fine to do, but will increase the volume of water making this no-reduce tek more difficult. Even the 2nd simmering step is optional. If you prefer to only work with a small amount of liquid and still get a 2-3% yield, just do the first 40 minutes simmer.

[[File:IMG 20260131 142109.jpg|thumb|Color Change from adding sodium Carbonate]]

- Combine both of the simmering liquids and after they've cooled enough for safety, transfer them using a funnel to a tall narrow container that we’ll call your “washing vessel”. Although a glass vessel with slick sides is best, a 2L milk jug or water bottle will suffice and should be easy for anyone to buy. Wider washing vessels are not recommended as tall narrow ones allow decanting significantly more liquid before sediments begin to be poured off.

Note: If your washing vessel is too small to fit all the liquid, you can simply use 2 vessels for the first washing step then pour off enough clear liquid from the top of each vessel to reduce the liquid enough to fit in one for the entire rest of the tek.

- Add a concentrated sodium-carbonate-in-water solution to the liquid in your washing vessel and stir. You will immediately see a color change from red-brown to sand-colored. Continue adding the sodium carbonate solution and stirring until adding it no longer results in a color change. Try not to add a large excess of sodium carbonate, but you don’t have to be too careful about it.

Note: Sodium carbonate can be bought as washing soda, or produced by baking baking soda in an oven for 1-2 hours @ 200°C OR cooking it in a dry pan for 20-30 minutes on medium-high heat until the gas bubbles stop

- You will likely see some dusty harmalas settling at the bottom of the washing vessel after a couple minutes. Place the vessel into the fridge for the harmalas to settle completely to the bottom.

At this point you technically could filter the liquid progressively through cotton balls then a coffee filter and then wash it several time to get a pure product. This is a valid option that will work; however, this is not the relatively unknown method that inspired me to write this tek, nor is it recommended.

The recommended purification & separation method requires some explanation behind the core concept and a crucial choice in terms of how speedy you want your first batch of dry harmalas to be retrieved.

First thing to know is: freebase harmalas are nearly insoluble in water, so washing them repeatedly results in very few losses and this washing serves to lower the amount of base and Syrian Rue tea's co-extractives to levels enough to be negligible in your end product. Analysis by Brennendes Wasser shows that washing 4 times can lead to a pure product, but realistically 5-7 washes is recommended.

Second thing to know is: the settling of freebase harmalas in a solution takes a while. Based on my observations in my 1.5L glass container:
30 minutes in the fridge – the bulk of harmalas have settled, but much of the particulates are still visibly floating
1 hour in the fridge – the top half of the liquid is mostly clear, but the bottom half has some floating particulates
2 hours in the fridge – the majority of the particulates have all settled, just a bit of them are still floating
2.5+ hours in the fridge – all particulates have fully settled

Note: settling outside the fridge slows the settling to some degree. Also, the first settling is notably slower than all subsequent ones.

The washing process requires 2 nearly identical retrieval procedures:
1. The bulk-product retrieval
2. The carryover loss retrieval.

When doing the bulk-product retrieval:
If one wanted a very rushed 50-60% bulk product, then 4 or 5 washes with 30 minutes settling periods would definitely achieve that.
A good mix between quick product and yield is 1 hour settling periods where around 70-75% might be retained after all the washes.
Of course, as the mix settles longer, carryover “losses” from the decanting will be reduced but never zero.

I should make it clear that “losses” are in quotations, because they are not actually lost, but just retrieved later in the carryover loss retrieval.
A relaxed and effective approach, which I typically do, is to perform 2–3 washes per day, allowing longer settling periods (overnight or throughout the day). This minimizes effort while still achieving a clean product.

Anyway, on to the specific steps of the recommended purification & separation method:

== Process 1: Bulk Product Retrieval ==

[[File:Aaaaaaa.JPG|thumb|Washing and Decanting Cycle]]

After your chosen amount of settling time:
1. Carefully pick up the washing vessel with the settled harmalas and very slowly pour around 90% of the liquid out of the vessel into a large container like a bucket . As long as it is done slowly then the majority of the harmala should all be left sitting at the bottom. When the bottom sediment is about halfway up the side is typically a good time to stop pouring.
2. After decanting the water, you should be left with a very muddy-looking mix at the bottom.
3. Add fresh tap water, filling the liquid up close to the top.
4. Return the washing vessel to the fridge to settle

- The 4 steps above must be repeated at least 4 times, ideally 5 to 7.

[[File:Rgfdfd.jpg|thumb|Drying Washed Harmalas]]

- After the last washing, pour the harmalas/water onto a heat-safe plate or baking dish and evaporate in a very low oven or on the stovetop on minimum setting until the harmalas are dry.

[[File:Fgfdg.jpg|thumb|Scraping Up Dry Harmalas]]

[[File:56546.jpg|thumb|2.3g of Dried Harmalas]]

- After cooling use a razor blade to scrape up your harmalas into a small vial or plastic bag and store in a cool dry place.

As noted earlier, while further purification steps can surely be done, analysis by Brennendes Wasser show that they are likely unnecessary. The harmalas theoretically should be ready to use for changa or pharmahuasca.

== Process 2: Carryover Loss Retrieval ==

[[File:Dfdsfdsfds.jpg|thumb|Decanted Water with Carryover Loss Harmalas at the Bottom]]

Note: the "bucket" I used is much smaller than what is recommended, I needed to frequently pour of 50% of the liquid to stop it from overflowing.

Your bucket/large container will contain a bunch of water and your carryover loss harmalas at the bottom. Because you already retrieved the bulk of your harmalas AND the fact that the harmalas will naturally be the finer more whispy ones, the return on invested time is going to be significantly lower than the bulk-method from before. The fine whispy harmalas will take longer to settle so make sure to allow 3+ hours for all washes.

- After settling, simply pour/scoop off the top until you have reduced the water to enough to transfer it into your previous washing vessel. Then do 3-4 decanting-washing cycles, pour and dry your harmalas and retried the “losses” from before.

You can do another loss retrieval, but logistically your harmalas gained would be extremely low. I recommend discarding the clear liquid decanted from the carryover retrieval procedure.

== Optional Alkaloid Seperation ==

If you would like to separate the main alkaloids of the harmalas, harmine & harmaline, you have 2 options.

Note The black "gunk" in these processes is actually harmalas that are chemically insoluble in vinegar, according to Brennendes Wasser's analysis. There will likely be a ~20% loss of this gunky harmala product during the process as a result, but these harmalas have unknown effects when consumed at the moment.

'''Option 1: No PH meter'''

'''Part A: Getting the harmine'''
* Redissolve the harmalas in vinegar and let the black gunk settle to the bottom
* Decant the liquid from the top, add some more water and let it settle once more
* Decant the liquid from the top, adding it to the previosly decanted liquid.
* Filter the liquid through a cotton ball, keeping the liquid and discarding any sediments. Add ~20ml of water to rinse the liquid out of the cotton ball.
* To the filtered liquid, add a solution of baking soda and water while stirring until adding it results in no color change/precipitation. An excess is okay.
* Let the precipitate settle in the container. Ideally in the fridge.
* Decant and filter the liquid through a coffee filter (slower) or facial tissue (quicker). Rinse the filter with water, letting it drip through to the liquid below.
* Carefully move the filter to a large-mouth container or pot and use water to rinse all the sediments off of it.
* You will now have mostly-pure harmine in the water. You can filter and dry it or do 1-2 washing cycles and dry it like in the main tek to retrieve your product.

'''Part B: Getting the harmaline'''

* To the filtered liquid you removed the harmaline from, add a solution of sodium carbonate while stirring until the color no longer changes.
* Let the precipitate settle in the container. Ideally in the fridge.
* You can either filter and rinse the precipitate as with the harmine, or do 4+ washing cycles to remove the excess base as was done in the main tek.
* Whichever method used, after drying, this is your second separated product. The filtered precipitate should be mainly harmaline, but is quite likely to have some harmine as well.

'''Option 2: Using a PH meter'''

'''Part A: Getting the harmine'''
* Redissolve the harmalas in vinegar and let the black gunk settle to the bottom
* Decant the liquid from the top, add some more water and let it settle once more
* Decant the liquid from the top, adding it to the previosly decanted liquid.
* Filter the liquid through a cotton ball, keeping the liquid and discarding any sediments. Add ~20ml of water to rinse the liquid out of the cotton ball.
* Add a solution of sodium carbonate and water while stirring until a steady 8.5 PH is achieved.
* Let the precipitate settle in the container. Ideally in the fridge.
* Decant and filter the liquid through a coffee filter (slower) or facial tissue (quicker). Rinse the filter with water, letting it drip through to the liquid below.
* Carefully move the filter to a large-mouth container or pot and use water to rinse all the sediments off of it.
* You will now have mostly-pure harmine in the water. You can filter and dry it or do 1-2 washing cycles and dry it like in the main tek to retrieve your product.

'''Part B: Getting the harmaline'''
* To the filtered liquid you removed the harmaline from, add a solution of sodium carbonate while stirring until the color no longer changes.
* Let the precipitate settle in the container. Ideally in the fridge.
* You can either filter and rinse the precipitate as with the harmine, or do 4+ washing cycles to remove the excess base as was done in the main tek.
* Whichever method used, after drying, this is your second separated product. The filtered precipitate should be mainly harmaline, but is quite likely to have some harmine as well.

Note: If you require higher purity harmaline, an intermediate precipitate should be removed at 9.1PH which will be a mix of harmine and harmaline, then fully raising the PH with sodium carbonate will precipitate mostly-pure harmaline (credit to Endlessness for this tip)

File:IMG 20260131 142109.jpg

2026-01-31T12:21:57Z

Q21q21:

File:Sdsadsadsa.JPG

2026-01-31T12:14:02Z

Q21q21:

Super-Easy No-Filter Harmalas Tek

2026-01-31T03:42:43Z

Q21q21:

Speedy No-Filter Harmalas Tek

*Splash Picture of all steps*

The core ideas in this tek are based on the posts by Ouro/Mydriasis, Brennendes Wasser & Gibran2

As with “my” DMT tek, I’m simply standing on the shoulders of giants and breaking down a method as comprehensively as I can for clarity.

The inspiration for writing this “tek” is the no-filter strategy that replacing filtration with several washing and decanting steps.

With the exception of Gibran2’s tek on the wiki which explicitly advises against using Syrian Rue, the threads which mention this method have up 50-100x fewer views than the older rue teks on the wiki which from my personal experience can take 5-10 times longer than this one.

The purpose of this Tek is not getting a very high yield, it is ease, speed and surprising purity. I’m personally very happy taking 5 – 12 hours to get a 2-4% yield compared to taking 2 to 4+ days full of slow messy high-effort filtration to get 5-7%.

'''The core features of the speedy tek are:'''
* Using whole Syrian Rue seeds rather than ground up ones.
* Freezing and thawing the seeds.
* Simmering, not boiling.
* Replacing filtering with water-washing and decanting.
* Only a single basing step to produce a pure product.

Procedure:

Caution: Harmalas can be absorbed through the skin. Please keep children and pregnant women away from your extraction.

[[File:IMG_20260131_104442.jpg|thumb|Frozen Rue Seeds]]

- The night before the extraction starts, soak 100g of whole Syrian Rue seeds in at least 500ml of water and put it in the freezer until solid. My experiments suggest freezing increases the yield of the first boil by 2x or more.

Note: doing the tek with 200g or more totally could work. It mainly just changes the first washing step. Just use one large or multiple regular washing vessels before reducing the liquid volume enough to proceed just like a 100g batch starting with the 2nd wash.

[[File:11111.jpg|thumb|Simmering Rue Seeds]]

- You can thaw the ice-seeds mix slowly, or melt it on the stove top. Once thawed, add ~30ml vinegar and enough water to increase the volume to 1000ml and lightly simmer for 30-40 minutes. Add more fresh water halfway through the simmering to get it back to 1000ml to account for the evaporation. Do not fully boil it, that will only slow down the washing steps later by extracting more unwanted things from the seeds.

More time and/or water is fine, but don’t use less! My tests indicate that on the first boil:
1. Using half as much water reduces the yield by around 50%
2. Halving the boiling time reduces the yield by up to 50%

-After simmering, Separate the liquid from the seeds into a heat-safe container like a pot or jar to cool. A small mesh strainer pushed down on the seeds and turkey baster sucking up the liquid works best to get much of the liquid trapped between the seeds, but pouring the liquid through a mesh strainer is a perfectly fine second-best option if you’re careful.

[[File:Ghgfhgfhgfh.JPG|thumb|Straining Rue Seeds]]

- After separating the simmering liquid from the seeds, rinse them by adding enough tap water to make most of them float, then transfer that liquid into the same heat-safe container.

- Add 15ml more vinegar and enough water to the seeds to raise the level to 750ml and and simmer for 20 minutes. After simmering, separate the liquid from the seeds as before.

Note: A 3rd simmering step is perfectly fine to do, but will increase the volume of water making this no-reduce tek more difficult. Even the 2nd simmering step is optional. If you prefer to only work with a small amount of liquid and still get a 2-3% yield, just do the first 40 minutes simmer.

*Washing vessel with brew picture & sodium carbonate color-change picture*

- Combine both of the simmering liquids and after they've cooled enough for safety, transfer them using a funnel to a tall narrow container that we’ll call your “washing vessel”. Although a glass vessel with slick sides is best, a 2L milk jug or water bottle will suffice and should be easy for anyone to buy. Wider washing vessels are not recommended as tall narrow ones allow decanting significantly more liquid before sediments begin to be poured off.

Note: If your washing vessel is too small to fit all the liquid, you can simply use 2 vessels for the first washing step then pour off enough clear liquid from the top of each vessel to reduce the liquid enough to fit in one for the entire rest of the tek.

- Add a concentrated sodium-carbonate-in-water solution to the liquid in your washing vessel and stir. You will immediately see a color change from red-brown to sand-colored. Continue adding the sodium carbonate solution and stirring until adding it no longer results in a color change. Try not to add a large excess of sodium carbonate, but you don’t have to be too careful about it.

Note: Sodium carbonate can be bought as washing soda, or produced by baking baking soda in an oven for 1-2 hours @ 200°C OR cooking it in a dry pan for 20-30 minutes on medium-high heat until the gas bubbles stop

- You will likely see some dusty harmalas settling at the bottom of the washing vessel after a couple minutes. Place the vessel into the fridge for the harmalas to settle completely to the bottom.

At this point you technically could filter the liquid progressively through cotton balls then a coffee filter and then wash it several time to get a pure product. This is a valid option that will work; however, this is not the relatively unknown method that inspired me to write this tek, nor is it recommended.

The recommended purification & separation method requires some explanation behind the core concept and a crucial choice in terms of how speedy you want your first batch of dry harmalas to be retrieved.

First thing to know is: freebase harmalas are nearly insoluble in water, so washing them repeatedly results in very few losses and this washing serves to lower the amount of base and Syrian Rue tea's co-extractives to levels enough to be negligible in your end product. Analysis by Brennendes Wasser shows that washing 4 times can lead to a pure product, but realistically 5-7 washes is recommended.

Second thing to know is: the settling of freebase harmalas in a solution takes a while. Based on my observations in my 1.5L glass container:
30 minutes in the fridge – the bulk of harmalas have settled, but much of the particulates are still visibly floating
1 hour in the fridge – the top half of the liquid is mostly clear, but the bottom half has some floating particulates
2 hours in the fridge – the majority of the particulates have all settled, just a bit of them are still floating
2.5+ hours in the fridge – all particulates have fully settled

Note: settling outside the fridge slows the settling to some degree. Also, the first settling is notably slower than all subsequent ones.

The washing process requires 2 nearly identical retrieval procedures:
1. The bulk-product retrieval
2. The carryover loss retrieval.

When doing the bulk-product retrieval:
If one wanted a very rushed 50-60% bulk product, then 4 or 5 washes with 30 minutes settling periods would definitely achieve that.
A good mix between quick product and yield is 1 hour settling periods where around 70-75% might be retained after all the washes.
Of course, as the mix settles longer, carryover “losses” from the decanting will be reduced but never zero.

I should make it clear that “losses” are in quotations, because they are not actually lost, but just retrieved later in the carryover loss retrieval.
A relaxed and effective approach, which I typically do, is to perform 2–3 washes per day, allowing longer settling periods (overnight or throughout the day). This minimizes effort while still achieving a clean product.

Anyway, on to the specific steps of the recommended purification & separation method:

Procedure 1: Bulk Product Retrieval

[[File:Aaaaaaa.JPG|thumb|Washing and Decanting Cycle]]

After your chosen amount of settling time:
1. Carefully pick up the washing vessel with the settled harmalas and very slowly pour around 90% of the liquid out of the vessel into a large container like a bucket . As long as it is done slowly then the majority of the harmala should all be left sitting at the bottom. When the bottom sediment is about halfway up the side is typically a good time to stop pouring.
2. After decanting the water, you should be left with a very muddy-looking mix at the bottom.
3. Add fresh tap water, filling the liquid up close to the top.
4. Return the washing vessel to the fridge to settle

- The 4 steps above must be repeated at least 4 times, ideally 5 to 7.

[[File:Rgfdfd.jpg|thumb|Drying Washed Harmalas]]

- After the last washing, pour the harmalas/water onto a heat-safe plate or baking dish and evaporate in a very low oven or on the stovetop on minimum setting until the harmalas are dry.

[[File:Fgfdg.jpg|thumb|Scraping Up Dry Harmalas]]

[[File:56546.jpg|thumb|2.3g of Dried Harmalas]]

- After cooling use a razor blade to scrape up your harmalas into a small vial or plastic bag and store in a cool dry place.

As noted earlier, while further purification steps can surely be done, analysis by Brennendes Wasser show that they are likely unnecessary. The harmalas theoretically should be ready to use for changa or pharmahuasca.

Procedure 2: Carryover Loss Retrieval

[[File:Dfdsfdsfds.jpg|thumb|Decanted Water with Carryover Loss Harmalas at the Bottom]]

Note: the "bucket" I used is much smaller than what is recommended, I needed to frequently pour of 50% of the liquid to stop it from overflowing.

Your bucket/large container will contain a bunch of water and your carryover loss harmalas at the bottom. Because you already retrieved the bulk of your harmalas AND the fact that the harmalas will naturally be the finer more whispy ones, the return on invested time is going to be significantly lower than the bulk-method from before. The fine whispy harmalas will take longer to settle so make sure to allow 3+ hours for all washes.

- After settling, simply pour/scoop off the top until you have reduced the water to enough to transfer it into your previous washing vessel. Then do 3-4 decanting-washing cycles, pour and dry your harmalas and retried the “losses” from before.

You can do another loss retrieval, but logistically your harmalas gained would be extremely low. I recommend discarding the clear liquid decanted from the carryover retrieval procedure.

Optional Alkaloid Seperation:
If you would like to separate the main alkaloids of the harmalas, harmine & harmaline, you have 2 options.

'''Option 1: No PH meter'''

'''Part A: Getting the harmine'''
* Redissolve the harmalas in vinegar.
* Filter the liquid through a coffee filter, keeping the liquid and discarding any sediments. Rinse the coffee filter with water, keeping the rinse-water to reduce transfer losses.
* Add a solution of baking soda and water while stirring until adding it results in no color change/precipitation. An excess is okay.
* Let the precipitate settle in the container. Ideally in the fridge.
* Decant and filter the liquid. Rinse the coffee filter with cold water a few times, letting it drip through in order to remove baking soda from it.
* After drying, this is your first separated product. The filtered precipitate should be mostly-pure harmine.

'''Part B: Getting the harmaline'''

* Add a solution of sodium carbonate to the filtered liquid while stirring until the color no longer changes or no precipitate comes out.
* Let the precipitate settle in the container. Ideally in the fridge.
* You can either filter and rinse the precipitate as with the harmine, or do 4+ decant/wash steps to remove the excess base as was done to get the unseparated harmalas.
* Whichever method used, after drying, this is your second separated product. The filtered precipitate should be mainly harmaline, but is quite likely to have some harmine as well.

'''Option 2: Using a PH meter'''

'''Part A: Getting the harmine'''
* Redissolve the harmalas in vinegar.
* Filter the liquid through a coffee filter, keeping the liquid and discarding any sediments. Rinse the coffee filter with water, keeping the rinse-water to reduce transfer losses.
* Add a solution of sodium carbonate and water while stirring until a steady 8.5 PH is achieved.
* Let the precipitate settle in the container. Ideally in the fridge.
* Decant and filter the liquid. Rinse the coffee filter with cold water a few times, letting it drip through in order to remove baking soda from it.
* After drying, this is your first separated product. The filtered precipitate should be mostly-pure harmine.

'''Part B: Getting the harmaline'''
* Add a solution of sodium carbonate to the filtered liquid while stirring until the color no longer changes or no precipitate comes out.
* Let the precipitate settle in the container. Ideally in the fridge.
* You can either filter and rinse the precipitate as with the harmine, or do 4+ decant/wash steps to remove the excess base as was done to get the unseparated harmalas.
* Whichever method used, after drying, this is your second separated product. The filtered precipitate should be mainly harmaline, but is quite likely to have some harmine as well.

Note: If you require higher purity harmaline, an intermediate precipitate should be removed at 9.1PH which will be a mix of harmine and harmaline, then fully raising the PH with sodium carbonate will precipitate mostly-pure harmaline (credit to Endlessness for this tip)

File:Ghgfhgfhgfh.JPG

2026-01-31T03:41:13Z

Q21q21:

Super-Easy No-Filter Harmalas Tek

2026-01-31T03:14:58Z

Q21q21: Created page with "Speedy No-Filter Harmalas Tek *Splash Picture of all steps* The core ideas in this tek are based on the posts by Ouro/Mydriasis, Brennendes Wasser & Gibran2 As with “my..."

Speedy No-Filter Harmalas Tek

*Splash Picture of all steps*

The core ideas in this tek are based on the posts by Ouro/Mydriasis, Brennendes Wasser & Gibran2

As with “my” DMT tek, I’m simply standing on the shoulders of giants and breaking down a method as comprehensively as I can for clarity.

The inspiration for writing this “tek” is the no-filter strategy that replacing filtration with several washing and decanting steps.

With the exception of Gibran2’s tek on the wiki which explicitly advises against using Syrian Rue, the threads which mention this method have up 50-100x fewer views than the older rue teks on the wiki which from my personal experience can take 5-10 times longer than this one.

The purpose of this Tek is not getting a very high yield, it is ease, speed and surprising purity. I’m personally very happy taking 5 – 12 hours to get a 2-4% yield compared to taking 2 to 4+ days full of slow messy high-effort filtration to get 5-7%.

'''The core features of the speedy tek are:'''
* Using whole Syrian Rue seeds rather than ground up ones.
* Freezing and thawing the seeds.
* Simmering, not boiling.
* Replacing filtering with water-washing and decanting.
* Only a single basing step to produce a pure product.

Procedure:

Caution: Harmalas can be absorbed through the skin. Please keep children and pregnant women away from your extraction.

[[File:IMG_20260131_104442.jpg|thumb|Frozen Rue Seeds]]

- The night before the extraction starts, soak 100g of whole Syrian Rue seeds in at least 500ml of water and put it in the freezer until solid. My experiments suggest freezing increases the yield of the first boil by 2x or more.

Note: doing the tek with 200g or more totally could work. It mainly just changes the first washing step. Just use one large or multiple regular washing vessels before reducing the liquid volume enough to proceed just like a 100g batch starting with the 2nd wash.

[[File:11111.jpg|thumb|Simmering Rue Seeds]]

- You can thaw the ice-seeds mix slowly, or melt it on the stove top. Once thawed, add ~30ml vinegar and enough water to increase the volume to 1000ml and lightly simmer for 30-40 minutes. Add more fresh water halfway through the simmering to get it back to 1000ml to account for the evaporation. Do not fully boil it, that will only slow down the washing steps later by extracting more unwanted things from the seeds.

More time and/or water is fine, but don’t use less! My tests indicate that on the first boil:
1. Using half as much water reduces the yield by around 50%
2. Halving the boiling time reduces the yield by up to 50%

-After simmering, Separate the liquid from the seeds into a heat-safe container like a pot or jar to cool. A small mesh strainer pushed down on the seeds and turkey baster sucking up the liquid works best to get much of the liquid trapped between the seeds, but pouring the liquid through a mesh strainer is a perfectly fine second-best option if you’re careful.

- After separating the simmering liquid from the seeds, rinse them by adding enough tap water to make most of them float, then transfer that liquid into the same heat-safe container.

- Add 15ml more vinegar and enough water to the seeds to raise the level to 750ml and and simmer for 20 minutes. After simmering, separate the liquid from the seeds as before.

Note: A 3rd simmering step is perfectly fine to do, but will increase the volume of water making this no-reduce tek more difficult. Even the 2nd simmering step is optional. If you prefer to only work with a small amount of liquid and still get a 2-3% yield, just do the first 40 minutes simmer.

*Washing vessel with brew picture & sodium carbonate color-change picture*

- Combine both of the simmering liquids and after they've cooled enough for safety, transfer them using a funnel to a tall narrow container that we’ll call your “washing vessel”. Although a glass vessel with slick sides is best, a 2L milk jug or water bottle will suffice and should be easy for anyone to buy. Wider washing vessels are not recommended as tall narrow ones allow decanting significantly more liquid before sediments begin to be poured off.

Note: If your washing vessel is too small to fit all the liquid, you can simply use 2 vessels for the first washing step then pour off enough clear liquid from the top of each vessel to reduce the liquid enough to fit in one for the entire rest of the tek.

- Add a concentrated sodium-carbonate-in-water solution to the liquid in your washing vessel and stir. You will immediately see a color change from red-brown to sand-colored. Continue adding the sodium carbonate solution and stirring until adding it no longer results in a color change. Try not to add a large excess of sodium carbonate, but you don’t have to be too careful about it.

Note: Sodium carbonate can be bought as washing soda, or produced by baking baking soda in an oven for 1-2 hours @ 200°C OR cooking it in a dry pan for 20-30 minutes on medium-high heat until the gas bubbles stop

- You will likely see some dusty harmalas settling at the bottom of the washing vessel after a couple minutes. Place the vessel into the fridge for the harmalas to settle completely to the bottom.

At this point you technically could filter the liquid progressively through cotton balls then a coffee filter and then wash it several time to get a pure product. This is a valid option that will work; however, this is not the relatively unknown method that inspired me to write this tek, nor is it recommended.

The recommended purification & separation method requires some explanation behind the core concept and a crucial choice in terms of how speedy you want your first batch of dry harmalas to be retrieved.

First thing to know is: freebase harmalas are nearly insoluble in water, so washing them repeatedly results in very few losses and this washing serves to lower the amount of base and Syrian Rue tea's co-extractives to levels enough to be negligible in your end product. Analysis by Brennendes Wasser shows that washing 4 times can lead to a pure product, but realistically 5-7 washes is recommended.

Second thing to know is: the settling of freebase harmalas in a solution takes a while. Based on my observations in my 1.5L glass container:
30 minutes in the fridge – the bulk of harmalas have settled, but much of the particulates are still visibly floating
1 hour in the fridge – the top half of the liquid is mostly clear, but the bottom half has some floating particulates
2 hours in the fridge – the majority of the particulates have all settled, just a bit of them are still floating
2.5+ hours in the fridge – all particulates have fully settled

Note: settling outside the fridge slows the settling to some degree. Also, the first settling is notably slower than all subsequent ones.

The washing process requires 2 nearly identical retrieval procedures:
1. The bulk-product retrieval
2. The carryover loss retrieval.

When doing the bulk-product retrieval:
If one wanted a very rushed 50-60% bulk product, then 4 or 5 washes with 30 minutes settling periods would definitely achieve that.
A good mix between quick product and yield is 1 hour settling periods where around 70-75% might be retained after all the washes.
Of course, as the mix settles longer, carryover “losses” from the decanting will be reduced but never zero.

I should make it clear that “losses” are in quotations, because they are not actually lost, but just retrieved later in the carryover loss retrieval.
A relaxed and effective approach, which I typically do, is to perform 2–3 washes per day, allowing longer settling periods (overnight or throughout the day). This minimizes effort while still achieving a clean product.

Anyway, on to the specific steps of the recommended purification & separation method:

Procedure 1: Bulk Product Retrieval

[[File:Aaaaaaa.JPG|thumb|Washing and Decanting Cycle]]

After your chosen amount of settling time:
1. Carefully pick up the washing vessel with the settled harmalas and very slowly pour around 90% of the liquid out of the vessel into a large container like a bucket . As long as it is done slowly then the majority of the harmala should all be left sitting at the bottom. When the bottom sediment is about halfway up the side is typically a good time to stop pouring.
2. After decanting the water, you should be left with a very muddy-looking mix at the bottom.
3. Add fresh tap water, filling the liquid up close to the top.
4. Return the washing vessel to the fridge to settle

- The 4 steps above must be repeated at least 4 times, ideally 5 to 7.

[[File:Rgfdfd.jpg|thumb|Drying Washed Harmalas]]

- After the last washing, pour the harmalas/water onto a heat-safe plate or baking dish and evaporate in a very low oven or on the stovetop on minimum setting until the harmalas are dry.

[[File:Fgfdg.jpg|thumb|Scraping Up Dry Harmalas]]

[[File:56546.jpg|thumb|2.3g of Dried Harmalas]]

- After cooling use a razor blade to scrape up your harmalas into a small vial or plastic bag and store in a cool dry place.

As noted earlier, while further purification steps can surely be done, analysis by Brennendes Wasser show that they are likely unnecessary. The harmalas theoretically should be ready to use for changa or pharmahuasca.

Procedure 2: Carryover Loss Retrieval

[[File:Dfdsfdsfds.jpg|thumb|Decanted Water with Carryover Loss Harmalas at the Bottom]]

Note: the "bucket" I used is much smaller than what is recommended, I needed to frequently pour of 50% of the liquid to stop it from overflowing.

Your bucket/large container will contain a bunch of water and your carryover loss harmalas at the bottom. Because you already retrieved the bulk of your harmalas AND the fact that the harmalas will naturally be the finer more whispy ones, the return on invested time is going to be significantly lower than the bulk-method from before. The fine whispy harmalas will take longer to settle so make sure to allow 3+ hours for all washes.

- After settling, simply pour/scoop off the top until you have reduced the water to enough to transfer it into your previous washing vessel. Then do 3-4 decanting-washing cycles, pour and dry your harmalas and retried the “losses” from before.

You can do another loss retrieval, but logistically your harmalas gained would be extremely low. I recommend discarding the clear liquid decanted from the carryover retrieval procedure.

Optional Alkaloid Seperation:
If you would like to separate the main alkaloids of the harmalas, harmine & harmaline, you have 2 options.

'''Option 1: No PH meter'''

'''Part A: Getting the harmine'''
* Redissolve the harmalas in vinegar.
* Filter the liquid through a coffee filter, keeping the liquid and discarding any sediments. Rinse the coffee filter with water, keeping the rinse-water to reduce transfer losses.
* Add a solution of baking soda and water while stirring until adding it results in no color change/precipitation. An excess is okay.
* Let the precipitate settle in the container. Ideally in the fridge.
* Decant and filter the liquid. Rinse the coffee filter with cold water a few times, letting it drip through in order to remove baking soda from it.
* After drying, this is your first separated product. The filtered precipitate should be mostly-pure harmine.

'''Part B: Getting the harmaline'''

* Add a solution of sodium carbonate to the filtered liquid while stirring until the color no longer changes or no precipitate comes out.
* Let the precipitate settle in the container. Ideally in the fridge.
* You can either filter and rinse the precipitate as with the harmine, or do 4+ decant/wash steps to remove the excess base as was done to get the unseparated harmalas.
* Whichever method used, after drying, this is your second separated product. The filtered precipitate should be mainly harmaline, but is quite likely to have some harmine as well.

'''Option 2: Using a PH meter'''

'''Part A: Getting the harmine'''
* Redissolve the harmalas in vinegar.
* Filter the liquid through a coffee filter, keeping the liquid and discarding any sediments. Rinse the coffee filter with water, keeping the rinse-water to reduce transfer losses.
* Add a solution of sodium carbonate and water while stirring until a steady 8.5 PH is achieved.
* Let the precipitate settle in the container. Ideally in the fridge.
* Decant and filter the liquid. Rinse the coffee filter with cold water a few times, letting it drip through in order to remove baking soda from it.
* After drying, this is your first separated product. The filtered precipitate should be mostly-pure harmine.

'''Part B: Getting the harmaline'''
* Add a solution of sodium carbonate to the filtered liquid while stirring until the color no longer changes or no precipitate comes out.
* Let the precipitate settle in the container. Ideally in the fridge.
* You can either filter and rinse the precipitate as with the harmine, or do 4+ decant/wash steps to remove the excess base as was done to get the unseparated harmalas.
* Whichever method used, after drying, this is your second separated product. The filtered precipitate should be mainly harmaline, but is quite likely to have some harmine as well.

Note: If you require higher purity harmaline, an intermediate precipitate should be removed at 9.1PH which will be a mix of harmine and harmaline, then fully raising the PH with sodium carbonate will precipitate mostly-pure harmaline (credit to Endlessness for this tip)

File:Dfdsfdsfds.jpg

2026-01-31T03:11:26Z

Q21q21:

File:56546.jpg

2026-01-31T03:09:53Z

Q21q21:

File:Fgfdg.jpg

2026-01-31T03:08:05Z

Q21q21:

File:Rgfdfd.jpg

2026-01-31T03:02:54Z

Q21q21:

File:Aaaaaaa.JPG

2026-01-31T03:00:43Z

Q21q21:

File:11111.jpg

2026-01-31T02:53:24Z

Q21q21:

File:IMG 20260131 104442.jpg

2026-01-31T02:48:28Z

Q21q21:

Category:Extraction Tek

2026-01-31T02:37:28Z

Q21q21: /* A/B */

An Extraction Tek is a manual to extract certain chemicals from a given source.

To learn more about extractions in general and how they work, check the [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Where_to_start.3F FAQ], the [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Extraction_Overview extraction overview], as well as read a few different teks, even if you don't plan on doing them, because many of them explain the processes and why each step is done.

One does not need to be a chemist to perform an extraction. Don't worry about not understanding everything at first. Keep reading, inform yourself, take safety precautions, don't throw anything away before you're done with your extraction and don't consume anything you are not sure its clean.

{{Main Page/Portal|[[Image:Information.png]]|'''[[:Category:Extraction_Tek|Extraction Teks]]'''|
<table>
<tr>
<td>

</td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

==DMT==
===A/B===

* [[Lextek]]
* [[Marsofold's tek]]
* [[Shaggy's Jungle Tek]]
* [[The DMT Handbook]]
* [[Vovin's tek]]
* [[ACRB Tek By Thick-Light]]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=58064 ACRB TEK 100g "PICS" (Newbie Friendly)]
* [[The Wanderer's Tek]]
* [https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/User_talk:Justamessenger SP's ACRB Extraction Tek]

===STB===

* [[Jorkest's D-Limonene and Fumaric Acid Approach]]
* [[Lazyman's tek]]
* [[Noman's tek]]
* [[STC - Dream Weaver's tek]]

===STB-A/B hybrid===

* [[BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_AB|BLAB]]
* [[PanoraMIX European AB]]
* [[Nontoxic_limonene_tek|SyZyGyPSy's Nontoxic Limomene Tek]]
* [[Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek]]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=459391#post459391 Cyb's MAX ION Tek]

===Dry tek===

* [[Amor fati's Nontoxic Approach to Spice Extraction]]
* [[Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek]]
* [[HIELO]]

==MESCALINE==

===A/B===

* [[Kash's A/B Mescaline Extraction]]

===STB===

* [[LucidLemonade's sunflower oil mescaline extraction]]

===Crude extract===

* [[House's cacti preparation tek]]

===Dry tek===

* [[69ron's D-Limonene Mescaline Extraction]]
* [[CIELO]]

==BUFOTENINE==

===Dry tek===

* [[Jorkest's D-Limonene Bufotenine Extraction]]
* [[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=10071 No smell bufo extraction]]
* [[BW's Bufotenine Dry Tek]]

* [[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Bufotenine_Benzoate Bufotenine Benzoate]]

===IPA extract===

* [[Bufotenine IPA Extraction and Bufojam Changa Tek]]

===Full Spectrum===

[[2023 Full Spectrum Anadenathera Seed Extraction Technique.]]

==HARMALAS==

===A/B===

* [[Harmalas Extraction and Separation Guide]]
* [[EASY Harmaloid Freebase TEK]]
* [[Easy Caapi Vine Alkaloid Extraction Guide]]
* [[Enoons Cold Caapi Tek]]
* [[The Tao of Rue Extraction]]
* [[Super-Easy No-Filter Harmalas Tek]]

===Crude Manske (salt) Extract===

* [[Harmine Crystals from Syrian Rue]]

===Dry Tek===
* [[Ethyl Acetate Approach Harmala]]

==LSA==

===IPA extract===

* [[PanoraMIX HBWR Extract]]

===Acetone extract===

* [[Kash's Advanced LSA Extraction]]

==SALVIA==

===Acetone extract===

* [[PanoraMIX salvia extact]]
* [[Chilled Acetone with IPA and Naphtha re-X]]

[[Category:Tek]]

==IBOGA==

* [[Scaled Down Chris Jenks Ibogaine Extraction Tek]]

==Conversion teks==

[[DMT Fumarate to DMT Freebase]].

[[THH_reduction]]

Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek

2020-10-10T11:39:53Z

Q21q21:

This tek is not Q21Q21's original idea but rather a culmination of many people's ideas. It is NOT perfect so if you can think of a better way to do ANY part of it then try it and PM me if it works! The tek is written in first person but they are Q21Q21's words.

(Q21Q21 being a fictional alien entity... with internet access)'''

 This tek was inspired by: '''Blueskine''' whose idea for freebasing acetates with heat changed my life! '''Noman''' whose tek on erowid inspired my first extraction '''69ron''' and his mescaline tek that taught me the power of lime '''amor_fati''' whose tek inspired me to try a vinegar step and made the tek over 10x faster '''SyZyGyPSy''' was the first person to report using limonene to extract spice '''Anyone whose post was read and forgot who posted it, you all helped.''' '''Lye''' which is so toxic and nasty.

_____________________
== Introduction ==

'''As a comprehensive guide there's lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.'''

'''If you would like to get right into the "What do I do?" then you can start by reading the Super-short Compressed Tek. (Then the full tek later)
'''
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_1 Tek 1 (Uses xylene/d-limonene)]
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_2 Tek 2 (Uses naphtha)]

== Background Information ==

=== The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark ===

While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis (abbreviated as MHRB)

[[image:MHRBthing.png]]

Mimosa Hostilis Plant, Whole Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark (MHRB), Shredded MHRB, Powdered MHRB

Mimosa Hostilis is a shrub that contains '''N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' and 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids (and some TINY amounts of NMT) in its root-bark . 

Discussions about suppliers of MHRB are no longer allowed on the DMT-Nexus, so it's best to do outside-Nexus searches for suppliers.

'''An extremely important note''' is that I have tried about 10x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and failed each time. Powdered MHRB is the only thing I'd recommend to buy as most blenders cannot powder MHRB properly.

=== Info about the 3 types of DMT contained in MHRB ===

Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information. '''Methods:''' [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Pharmahuasca Pharmahuasca], [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Guide_to_Mucosahuasca Mucosahuasca] or [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17873 Smoking]

''' White N-N-DMT'''
 
 [[Image:Crystals.JPG]] White DMT I extracted using Tek 2

'''White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' is pure DMT. MHRB usually contains about 1% of its weight in '''White DMT''', though yields from extractions of less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.

In the past the ultimate goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just '''White DMT''' in it. 

'''Red "Jungle" DMT'''

[[Image:SANY0069.JPG]] Thick dark red Jungle DMT extracted from by fully depleting the MHRB using naphtha, then pulling with xylene

"Jungle" DMT is also contained in the bark but cannot be extracted into crystals like '''White DMT'''

Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produces effects similar in duration and effects to '''White DMT'''. 
I strongly believe the yellow DMT which MANY people prefer to pure '''White DMT''' is in fact small amounts of Jungle DMT mixed with the '''White DMT.''' I think the cause of this is because Jungle DMT is ever so slightly soluble in naphtha.
An [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=156691 analysis] was done on this Jungle DMT and it is mostly (95%) DMT. Nonetheless I and many others still believe Jungle DMT produces noticeably different effects.

'''Yellow DMT-N-oxide'''

[[Image:SANY0050.JPG]] Crystallized DMT-N-oxide made with peroxide and white DMT

DMT-N-oxide was previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, but in fact Oxides seems unlikely to be present in the extracted DMT in significant amounts at all. (as I mentioned I believe that yellow is Jungle DMT)
 I and many others have smoked DMT which has been in ambient air for months/years without any significant loss of potency. 
Considering my tests (using the Oxides in the picture) suggest Oxides are about 1/3 or less potent than '''white DMT''' or jungle DMT when smoked (waiting on replication of this test to be positive though) then I conclude Oxides are insignificant and need not be worried about.

'''Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product'''

[[Image:Capture.PNG]]

Jimjam DMT acetate I extracted using Tek 1 with d-limonene

If all the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum product called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during Tek 1.

Jimjam is considered by many to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though yields from extractions of more than 2% are not unheard of.

DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like Jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries - make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.

=== About the 2 teks ===
 [[Image:Suolvents.png]] 

Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naphtha they will be referred to as "the solvent"

In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used. '''Tek 2''' uses '''naphtha''' (lighter fluid) while
Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner but also used to dissolve HIPS 3D-printing supports)

(Vegetable oil can also apparently be used for Tek 1, you can search the Nexus for the many long threads talking about using it as a solvent)

'''Naphtha''' needs to be heated to dissolve or else it won't dissolve anything but its unique solubility properties allow for '''White DMT''' to be crystallized out when it is cooled in a freezer.
'''Tek 2''' thus involves a heating-step and a freezer-step that Tek 1 does not have. However, naphtha does not dissolve Jungle DMT very well so the extracted product will be almost entirely '''white DMT''' and leave the Jungle DMT in the MHRB.

d-limonene and xylene dissolve both '''white DMT''' and Jungle DMT at room temperate so Tek 1 doesn't need a heating step. Because of that it will yield full-spectrum product Jimjam DMT but since it is soluble, even when the solvent is cold, freezer precipitation doesn't work, so one of many different methods can be used to isolate the Jimjam DMT from the solvent.

Useful to know: If d-limonene is used, the tek will be

''<nowiki>*100% food-safe*</nowiki>'' 

Note:d-limonene still smells very strong and lingers in your house

'''For a first-timer [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Tek_2:_The_Fluffy_White_Funfest Tek 2] may be better advised than Tek 1 because it requires fewer steps and is well-suited for very small test batches like 30g-50g MHRB. I recommend Tek 1 for larger batches.

That being said, both teks are quite simple - comparable to baking a cake.'''

=== A little info on Lime ===
 [[Image:Lime.png]] 

'''The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is a replacement for lye which is very caustic and toxic.'''

lime is known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.

Until recently using caustic and toxic '''Sodium Hydroxide''' (lye, drain cleaner) was the only option as the base when extracting DMT. Lye is very potentially dangerous

These Teks instead use '''Lime'''. '''Lime''' is a powerful base that is actually food safe. It is powerfully alkaline so take care not to get it in your eyes or inhale it and wash your hands after touching it.

There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities. 

'''Here are some tips:'' Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums. So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores.

Local availability varies all the way from none to lots depending on country/location. If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.

If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally. Look on the internet for something and confirm that it is pure Ca(OH)2 before purchasing it from a reputable vendor.

If I haven't made this clear enough, let me end this section with a final clarification:
You MUST use proper lime for this tek to work! Make sure you do, good luck!

== Tek 1: The Jimjam party ==

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:''' 
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

Extraction Specific: 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH) 30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2) 125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark) Some Sealable and shakeable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel one Turkey baster or pipette(HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one Stove or Kettle one Pot or Pan

Useful tools one or more Funnels one Rice cooker one Baking pan/large surface area container one or more razor blades/scrapers one or two high quality mason jars 

Tincture tools one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml) one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses one spoon one lighter/candle/heat source

=== Preparation: ===
 [[Image:Materials.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I do not recommend skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent: ===
 [[Image:Dlime.jpg]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear d-limonene solvent floating on top

Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted '''''

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g) 

'''Step 2:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:''' mix with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:''' you can just roll the container around in your hands to mix it.

Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

Mix it well several times over 40-60 minutes. (I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

'''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY.'''

'''Step 3:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Note:Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Alternative Next-Steps ===
'''Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method.
There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB (Step 4)] by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead.

'''↓My preferred method is below↓'''

=== Salting with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:IMG_20200528_061727.jpg]]

Cloudy d-limonene floating on top of yellowish vinegar

'''''This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.'''''

Note 1: Xylene and D-Limonene are very leaky, most containers will eventually start leaking during the salting process. I recommend high quality mason jars that you’ve tested the lids to make sure the solvent doesn’t react with.

'''Step 1:''' Pour some vinegar into the sealable container with the solvent. About 2 shot glasses full.

'''Step 2:''' Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefer to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. Emulsions in this step always resolve pretty easily. No need to be careful.

Agitate the container 3-4 times over 40-60 minutes. The solvent will quickly start to get cloudy and the vinegar will gradually get more yellow.

You don’t have to wait until the solvent gets clear, it doesn’t seem to relate to the process being finished.

'''Step 3:''' Use a turkey baster/pipette to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container. As with the other liquid separations, 90% is okay.

Note 2: Try to get as little of the solvent during the separation as possible. This solvent will leave plant oils and other junk in your end product. That being said, a 1mm layer of solvent atop your vinegar is common using this method.

'''Step 4:'''
Repeat steps 1-3 once in exactly the same way, combine the separated vinegar pulls in a sealable container. Keep it safe because any spill will be a loss of lots of DMT!

For those that want DMT as soon as possible, proceed immediately on to the condensing step after Step 4.

'''Step 5:''' For those more patient/lazy, plan for your next non-polar solvent use.

'''The most efficient/least effort extraction:'''

'''Non-polar pull #1''' - 6-8 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #2''' - 24 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #3''' - 48 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the above 3 pulls should contain 80-90% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all of the vinegar from pulls 1-3 and proceed to the condensing step.

'''Non-polar pull #4''' - 1 week after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #5''' - 2-3 weeks after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the 5 pulls together should contain at least 95% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all the vinegar from pulls 4-5 and do another condensing.

=== Condensing/Tincture Making: ===
 [[Image:Condensing.jpg]]

The process of condensing vinegar from light yellow liquid to a dense red tincture (all pulls from 500g MHRB)

'''This step is just to concentrate the vinegar containing the DMT down to a dense liquid "tincture" which can easily measure dosages by number of drops.'''

The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all of your DMT maintaining a consistent concentration. This tincture will keep indefinitely, I have used the same for 3+ years with no loss of potency.

Note 1: You could technically evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smokeable product. But that would result in a goo which is very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air.

A far more useful alternative to a vinegar tincture would be making a more traditional tincture using ethanol. See [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Ethanol_Tincture this section] for information about making one.

'''There are many steps to do in the condensing, so I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar saltings into one because it makes your house smell very vinegary for a few hours and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times. Moreover, combining tinctures changes their concentrations, requiring re-measuring.'''

'''Step 1:''' Filter the vinegar through a cotton ball placed in the stem of a funnel into a pot. Then pour about a shotglass of water through the cotton ball into the pot to wash out any remaining vinegar.

'''Step 2:''' Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 40-50ml

'''Step 3:''' Remove the pot from heat, then use a dropper to carefully filter the liquid through a cotton ball back into the pot then wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball again with water.

'''Step 4:''' Lower the heat to medium low and watch it carefully until it is around starts to become red in color.

Note 2: You can estimate the resulting liquid based on the amount of MHRB used. The combined vinegar from 3 solvent pulls will result in roughly 1tsp/5ml for every 100g MHRB used at 10mg/drop. Generally it's much less liquid than you expect, especially if you're used to dosing with crystals.

'''Step 5:''' As the liquid becomes redder and redder, '''before the liquid is all gone,''' remove the pot from heat, tip the pot to the side and use a dropper to transfer your tincture to a dropper bottle.

'''It is a delicate balance of not removing all liquid, but getting a good concentration. It is best to aim for a little less liquid than a little more for 2 reasons:

You’ll need to rinse the pot with a few mL of water to get all the DMT off, adding additional liquid to the tincture

Adding more liquid is extremely simple, while removing liquid means doing the condensing again.'''

'''A tincture can vary hugely based on a few factors. The color is a simple general indicator of the concentration. Here are pictures of 3 different concentration levels:'''

[[Image:Captude.PNG]]

5mg per drop

[[Image:Capturfde.PNG]]

10mg per drop

[[Image:Captufdare.PNG]]

15mg per drop

More concentration can be done, but tinctures will get thicker and thicker until they are a thick goo (at room temperature) of pure DMT at around 50mg per drop.

For those wanting a more formal measurement of the concentration, proceed on to next optional section.

=== Measuring the tincture: ===
 Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.

Quantitative Concentration (numerical):

- Drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster.

- Put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) '''NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!'''

- Once the liquid has dissolved and it smells strongly, but not of vinegar, turn off the element and let it sit until cool enough to handle.

During the cooling, measure the weight of a razor blade using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.

- Remove the coaster from the element then scrape up the goo with a razor and measured using the scale.

- Subtract the weight of the razor blade then divide the number by 10 and that is the concentration per drop.

- Label the tincture with the concentration.

Note: Don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change!

Qualitative Concentration (subjective): This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca - Use one of the methods from the next section to evaporate 1 drop of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. - If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 2 drops, then 3, 4, etc. until adequate effects are achieved. - Concentration will then be *number* drops = Mild *number* drops = Strong *number* drops = Breakthrough *number* drops = Too Strong!

- Label the tincture with the recommended drops for a dosage.

=== Evaporation and Smoking: ===
 [[Image:Evaporatinsssg.png]]

Preparing a dose using the slow method and smoking DMT off copper using a home-made glass pipe and home-made glass bong

'''''After evaporating all the liquid from some of the tincture you are left with nearly pure DMT acetate goo. DMT acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and decomposes into freebase DMT with heat, so it is readily smokable (and doesn't taste like vinegar)'''''

The Slow and Patient Method

Simply put a number of drops of tincture for a single dose of DMT on your smoking material and let it dry for a few hours before smoking.

'''Smoking materials:'''

Neutral Herb (Mullien, Peppermint)

Maoi Containing Herb (Caapi, Passionflower)

Pre-torched Ceramic Fiber Ball

Pre-Charred Copper Kitchen Scrubber Ball

Silicon Carbide Ceramic Foam

Caution: Vinegar on copper may result in smoking small amounts of copper acetate which is not good for you. I cannot formally recommend this method for long term health without more information/research

The Hot and Quick Method

Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!

'''1: On Glass - Stove/Oven Method'''

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a flat glass coaster (I got my from the dollar store and then removed the rubber feet and glue from the bottom)

- Put the glass onto an electric stove element or into an oven at AS LOW AS POSSIBLE (do not use a gas stovetop)

- After the liquid evaporated and it doesn’t smell of vinegar it is ready. Usually about 1-2 minutes or 5 for fewer drops

- You can either:

a: Scrape up the liquid with a razor blade and transfer it to any smoking material

b: Let the glass cool to the touch then scrape it up with some herb/copper mesh

Note: hot DMT-acetate goo is very liquidy and hard to scrape up, the closer to room temperature it is, the thicker and easier it will be to scrape up.

'''2: With a Spoon - Lighter/Candle Method'''

Note:As much as this method might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a spoon then heat it from below with a lighter or candle flame. Be careful not to heat too quickly or it will spatter and DMT some will be lost.

- Continue to heat until the liquid has all gone and you’re left with a thin red liquidy goo that smells strongly but not of vinegar. A hot spoon will rapidly evaporate excess liquid without a flame below, so you can stop heating slightly before the process is finished.

- Carefully scrape up the goo with some herb/copper mesh. It’s usually best to let it cool for at least 30s before doing so to avoid burning yourself and allowing the goo to cool and thicken.

'''A quick warning about stability.'''

I would caution anyone against making lots of doses ahead of time with the slow or quick method because DMT-acetate seems somewhat unstable outside the tincture.

It seems like heat is the most significant factor in the degredation though, so storing the pre-dosed metal balls in the freezer is recommended before use.

=== Smoking: ===

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

Whether DMT crystals are melted on it, or DMT-acetate goo is put on them doesn't matter, you create a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50), most of them should work relatively interchangeably with DMT-acetates because the crystals are usually melted into a goo before smoking anyway.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 1 ===
You'll need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)
 Dropper Bottle
 Hot Plate/Stovetop
 Copper Kitchen Scrubber
 Turkey baster/pipette (solvent-safe!)

First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick tomato soup.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Add 150ml or more xylene or d-Limonene for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent, this is normal.
Stir the solvent around all the bark-mush. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes.

Gently pour off the solvent (might need to filter it) into a separate solvent-safe container.

Add 2 shot-glasses of vinegar into the solvent and agitate it a few times over 40-50 minutes

Use a turkey baster/pipette to separate the vinegar at the bottom to a separate container then repeat one more time with fresh vinegar

Put the solvent back on the bark-mush. I recommend pouring it off and doing the vinegar step at 1 day and 2 days, early pulls will yield less.

Combine all the vinegar pulls you have and carefully evaporate them until they start turning red. (you can optionally filter it)

Look at the condensing step for a color reference for a good concentration. It is most likely going to be much less liquid than you expect as it is very potent.

Transfer the liquid to a dropper bottle. Now you have a liquid that can be measured by number of drops and when evaporated (with or without heat) leaves a red goo which is readily smokable DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Scrub up the DMT with the ball and it can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

=== Ethanol Tincture ===

Note:75% ethanol dissolves full spectrum jimjam DMT much better than 95% ethanol, I haven't tried anything less like 40% vodka yet though.

To make an ethanol tincture either:
1: Proceed to step 4 below then continue to heat on minumum until a sap-like red goo remains

After it cools add ethanol drop by drop, stirring with a toothpick until the goo is all dissolved.

Use a dropper to transfer to a small dropper bottle to complete your ticture.

2: Evaporate all of the vinegar in a flat-bottom glass dish in an oven on the lowest setting then take it out as soon as (or slightly before) all the liquid is gone.

Once the resultant goo smells strongly, but not of vinegar then let it cool.

Prepare a small glass-dropper with a minimal amount of ethanol (1 gram of DMT dissolves in about 3ml of 75% ethanol)

Scrape up the goo on a razor then use a toothpick to transfer the goo into the bottle to make your tincture.

The ethanol tincture contains freebase jimjam DMT rather than DMT acetate and should be appropriate for directly evaporating on regular or MAOI herbs for changa. Unlike vinegar, the stability of DMT in ethanol is unknown currently (tests ongoing) so use caution with your DMT stores.

----

== Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest ==

=== About Naphtha ===
 Naphtha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though its toxicity is quite benign. '''Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.''' The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naphtha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.

Plus 2 things: 1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple of hours. 2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.

Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.

If you are in the US then VM+P Naphtha is your choice. If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices. If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it: 1. Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs) 2. Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.

(What your product will could like if you follow the tek) [[Image:Spicee.jpg]]

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:'''
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the naphtha and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority of problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

 Two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naphtha won't dissolve/degrade) one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best) one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation one freezer 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH) Some Lime Ca(OH)2 100ml or more Naphtha one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)

Useful tools a few Playing cards one or more razor blades/scrapers Some coffee filters 

=== Preparation: ===
[[Image:Materials2.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I do not recommend skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Naphtha'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Naphtha: ===
 [[Image:Napthaandgoo.JPG]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear naphtha solvent floating on top

'''Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naphtha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted.'''

Caution: Naphtha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do all of the following in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Get a large bowl that your bark-mush container/bowl can easily fit in. Place your container/bowl inside the bottom bowl then add boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the container/bowl or as close to that as possible. This will warm the bark mush indirectly and safely.

'''Step 2:''' Once the bark mush has been thoroughly warmed (it does not need to be hot, just nicely warm), add 1ml naphtha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naphtha or more for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 3:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Stir the bark-mush around to contact the solvent with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Danger: Warm naphtha produces lots of expanding fumes, so you MUST vent it frequently whenever it is closed and if you are using something that may shatter, put on gloves and safety glasses. Also, low quality containers are very likely to leak.

When the bark-naphtha mush has been warmed, but is not too hot to handle, seal the container and roll the container around in your hands to mix it. Regularly open the container to vent the pressure from the warm naphtha. Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

For either the bowl or the container, mix well several times over 40-60 minutes,(I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

Place the container/bowl in the hot water when you’re not mixing. Feel the outside of the bowl/container with the bark-mush from time to time and if it is no longer warm then you can replace/add more boiling water in the bowl underneath.

'''Step 4:''' Clean and dry your precipitation container

I find it easiest to work with a small glass cake-baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals. You can use any naphtha-safe container though, the crystals sometimes float around in plastic containers, but not always.

'''Step 5:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container, DRY THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Once your solvent is in you precipication container, proceed to the next step. If you see some clear liquid (water) under your naphtha, this is not good for the next step. Add the solvent back to the bark and immediately do the seperation again more carefully.

Note: Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Precipitation/Crystallization: ===
 [[Image:Spices.JPG]]

The first pull of naphtha from 500g of MHRB after being in the freezer overnight

'''This step works on the principal that naphtha can dissolve DMT-freebase quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naphtha with DMT-freebase dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.'''

'''Step 1:''' Just pop your precipitation container straight into the freezer. If the naphtha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry this is normal. The naphtha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow, especially on the first pull.

Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but although naphtha smells pretty strong, it doesn't linger too long like d-limonene or xylene.

'''Step 3:''' Keep the naphtha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming. If the naphtha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT-freebase molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.

'''Step 4:''' Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take your precipitation container out of the freezer and very gently pour off the naphtha back into your bark-mush.
Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors) place to lean your precipitation container against, the few drops of excess naphtha will drip off and all of the naphtha surrounding the crystals will evaporate in a couple of hours. Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, however usually just SLOWLY pouring the naphtha off works fine. You may use a coffee filter to catch them if you prefer.

'''Once your container no longer smells like naphtha the DMT-freebase is ready! Scrape them up with a razor or a small spoon and put in a small sealable container or baggie for storage. Keep it in a COOL DRY PLACE because DMT crystals will simply melt on a hot day'''

'''Additional Naphtha Pulls:'''

As I mentioned before, there are recommended timings for pulling with naphtha, but they are planned so you don't need to use extra solvent.
My recommended proceedure is as follows:

Warm and Pull either immediately or at 6-8 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 24 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 48 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''The above 3 pulls should total 80-90% of the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Warm and Pull at 1 week after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 2-3 after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''All 5 pulls together should contain 95% or more than the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Final Notes on Extracting with Tek 2:

- The solvent and the crystals will usually be more yellow with each pull. You won't notice the difference when smoking yellow DMT vs white DMT though. Also, your DMT crystals will often turn more yellow over long periods of time.

- There may be a small film underneath the crystals. I am pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT which are both readily smokable and psychoactive like the white DMT crystals.

- You can do a re-crystallization for larger crystals (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Recrystallization)

- If the first 2 pulls don't cloud or precipitate crystals after 8-12 hours then check something in the extraction did not work correctly. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Common_issues.2FTroubleshooting Common issues/Troubleshooting] because that should not happen.

- Technically you can make a tincture from Tek 2 by salting the naphtha with vinegar or dissolving the crystals in vinegar. This will produce a beautiful amber-colored liquid that can be measured in 2-3 drops rather than with a scale. This is my prefered method, but I know everyone loves pretty crystals, so this might take some of the magic out of Tek 2 for many people.

=== Smoking: ===

[[Image:IMG 20200703 121449.jpg]]

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So I can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

You just gently put a single dose of your DMT crystals on the ball then warm it with a ligher until they have melted and coated the metal and you've created a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50)explore and find your favorite one.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 2 ===
You need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 Naphtha
 Freezer

In a bowl, mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of MHRB is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick porridge.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Use a bowl underneath containing hot water to warm your bark mush.
Add about 100ml naphtha for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush.
Stir the naphtha around all the bark. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes, making sure the bark mush is kept warm the whole time.

Wipe the bottom of your bowl dry, then gently pour off the naphtha into a container which will go in the freezer (optionally through a coffee filter to catch sediment). I use an 8 inch pyrex cake pan.
If the naphtha is at a low level in the container you may want to wrap it in saran wrap to prevent evaporation.

In a couple of hours the naphtha should get cloudy. Slowly over 8-12 hours the DMT will precipitate out of the naphtha and form crystals on the container.
When the naphtha is no longer cloudy then gently pour the naphtha off the crystals and back into your bark mush (you may use a coffee filter if you prefer).
Put the container on its side to allow the naphtha to evaporate. Keep it out of the sunlight because the crystals will melt into a goo at about 40C or so.

When the crystals no longer smell of naphtha they are ready to smoke or whatever. Keep in a dime bag or something. STORE IN A COOL DRY PLACE TO AVOID MELTING!

Your first pull will only contain a portion of the total DMT, I recommend warming the naphtha, seperating and crystallizing again at 1 day, 2 days, 1 week and 2-3 weeks. Each pull will yeild less DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Put a dose of DMT crystals gently on the ball, then slowly heat it until they have all melted into it. At that point the ball can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

== Common issues/Troubleshooting ==

The teks are pretty comprehensive, so as long as you follow the steps you can expect success.

There are 5 likely causes of no DMT or very small yields of DMT. Each of them has to do with the quality of your core extraction materials:

'''1. Your Lime is not Calcium Hydroxide'''

This will mean that the PH of your basified bark mush is not low enough to convert the DMT-acetate to DMT freebase. Adding lime and water to the mix may fix this, but it depends on what your previous "lime" was.

'''2. Your Solvent was not the D-limonene/Xylene/Naphtha that was mentioned in the Teks.'''

This will result in either no DMT being dissolved in the solvent, the solvent mixing with the bark, no precipitation of DMT, no salting of DMT or maybe something else.

If your solvent evaporates on glass without leaving reside, completely dry out your lime-bark-solvent outside until it is crumbly (DO NOT USE HEAT!) and then proceeding to pull with proper solvent. Although it is likely to work, no guarentees.

If your solvent leaves a residue when evaporated on glass then it has additives in it and you risk significant health problems by doing anything further, just throw everything out and start again with fresh MHRB and proper solvent!

'''3. Your MHRB is not MHRB'''

This basically means you have no DMT to extract, so there is no solution to this issue other than getting yourself real MHRB

'''4: Your MHRB is not powdered'''

I have tried about 5x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and got a maximum of 5% the yield as powdered bark. If you have unused bark, you can try to powder it in a really strong blender, but most blenders can't powder MHRB. It might be better to just do a lye tek with your MHRB

'''5. Your vinegar is not 5% acetic acid'''

This will result in a successful, but 5x slower tek as it makes it a lime STB. You will have to wait much longer for the lime to work on the MHRB, but you just need patience and you'll get a full yield

 '''Good luck in all your life's endeavors! '''

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Limtek]]
[[Category:Acid/Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]

Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek

2020-10-07T11:26:27Z

Q21q21:

This tek is not Q21Q21's original idea but rather a culmination of many people's ideas. It is NOT perfect so if you can think of a better way to do ANY part of it then try it and PM me if it works! The tek is written in first person but they are Q21Q21's words.

(Q21Q21 being a fictional alien entity... with internet access)'''

 This tek was inspired by: '''Blueskine''' whose idea for freebasing acetates with heat changed my life! '''Noman''' whose tek on erowid inspired my first extraction '''69ron''' and his mescaline tek that taught me the power of lime '''amor_fati''' whose tek inspired me to try a vinegar step and made the tek over 10x faster '''SyZyGyPSy''' was the first person to report using limonene to extract spice '''Anyone whose post was read and forgot who posted it, you all helped.''' '''Lye''' which is so toxic and nasty.

_____________________
== Introduction ==

'''As a comprehensive guide there's lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.'''

'''If you would like to get right into the "What do I do?" then you can start by reading the Super-short Compressed Tek. (Then the full tek later)
'''
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_1 Tek 1 (Uses xylene/d-limonene)]
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_2 Tek 2 (Uses naphtha)]

== Background Information ==

=== The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark ===

While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis (abbreviated as MHRB)

[[image:MHRBthing.png]]

Mimosa Hostilis Plant, Whole Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark (MHRB), Shredded MHRB, Powdered MHRB

Mimosa Hostilis is a shrub that contains '''N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' and 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids (and some TINY amounts of NMT) in its root-bark . 

Discussions about suppliers of MHRB are no longer allowed on the DMT-Nexus, so it's best to do outside-Nexus searches for suppliers.

'''An extremely important note''' is that I have tried about 10x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and failed each time. Powdered MHRB is the only thing I'd recommend to buy as most blenders cannot powder MHRB properly.

=== Info about the 3 types of DMT contained in MHRB ===

Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information. '''Methods:''' [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Pharmahuasca Pharmahuasca], [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Guide_to_Mucosahuasca Mucosahuasca] or [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17873 Smoking]

''' White N-N-DMT'''
 
 [[Image:Crystals.JPG]] White DMT I extracted using Tek 2

'''White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' is pure DMT. MHRB usually contains about 1% of its weight in '''White DMT''', though yields from extractions of less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.

In the past the ultimate goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just '''White DMT''' in it. 

'''Red "Jungle" DMT'''

[[Image:SANY0069.JPG]] Thick dark red Jungle DMT extracted from by fully depleting the MHRB using naphtha, then pulling with xylene

"Jungle" DMT is also contained in the bark but cannot be extracted into crystals like '''White DMT'''

Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produces effects similar in duration and effects to '''White DMT'''. 
I strongly believe the yellow DMT which MANY people prefer to pure '''White DMT''' is in fact small amounts of Jungle DMT mixed with the '''White DMT.''' I think the cause of this is because Jungle DMT is ever so slightly soluble in naphtha.
An [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=156691 analysis] was done on this Jungle DMT and it is mostly (95%) DMT. Nonetheless I and many others still believe Jungle DMT produces noticeably different effects.

'''Yellow DMT-N-oxide'''

[[Image:SANY0050.JPG]] Crystallized DMT-N-oxide made with peroxide and white DMT

DMT-N-oxide was previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, but in fact Oxides seems unlikely to be present in the extracted DMT in significant amounts at all. (as I mentioned I believe that yellow is Jungle DMT)
 I and many others have smoked DMT which has been in ambient air for months/years without any significant loss of potency. 
Considering my tests (using the Oxides in the picture) suggest Oxides are about 1/3 or less potent than '''white DMT''' or jungle DMT when smoked (waiting on replication of this test to be positive though) then I conclude Oxides are insignificant and need not be worried about.

'''Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product'''

[[Image:Capture.PNG]]

Jimjam DMT acetate I extracted using Tek 1 with d-limonene

If all the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum product called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during Tek 1.

Jimjam is considered by many to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though yields from extractions of more than 2% are not unheard of.

DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like Jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries - make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.

=== About the 2 teks ===
 [[Image:Suolvents.png]] 

Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naphtha they will be referred to as "the solvent"

In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used. '''Tek 2''' uses '''naphtha''' (lighter fluid) while
Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner but also used to dissolve HIPS 3D-printing supports)

(Vegetable oil can also apparently be used for Tek 1, you can search the Nexus for the many long threads talking about using it as a solvent)

'''Naphtha''' needs to be heated to dissolve or else it won't dissolve anything but its unique solubility properties allow for '''White DMT''' to be crystallized out when it is cooled in a freezer.
'''Tek 2''' thus involves a heating-step and a freezer-step that Tek 1 does not have. However, naphtha does not dissolve Jungle DMT very well so the extracted product will be almost entirely '''white DMT''' and leave the Jungle DMT in the MHRB.

d-limonene and xylene dissolve both '''white DMT''' and Jungle DMT at room temperate so Tek 1 doesn't need a heating step. Because of that it will yield full-spectrum product Jimjam DMT but since it is soluble, even when the solvent is cold, freezer precipitation doesn't work, so one of many different methods can be used to isolate the Jimjam DMT from the solvent.

Useful to know: If d-limonene is used, the tek will be

''<nowiki>*100% food-safe*</nowiki>'' 

Note:d-limonene still smells very strong and lingers in your house

'''For a first-timer [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Tek_2:_The_Fluffy_White_Funfest Tek 2] may be better advised than Tek 1 because it requires fewer steps and is well-suited for very small test batches like 30g-50g MHRB. I recommend Tek 1 for larger batches.

That being said, both teks are quite simple - comparable to baking a cake.'''

=== A little info on Lime ===
 [[Image:Lime.png]] 

'''The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is a replacement for lye which is very caustic and toxic.'''

lime is known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.

Until recently using caustic and toxic '''Sodium Hydroxide''' (lye, drain cleaner) was the only option as the base when extracting DMT. Lye is very potentially dangerous

These Teks instead use '''Lime'''. '''Lime''' is a powerful base that is actually food safe. It is powerfully alkaline so take care not to get it in your eyes or inhale it and wash your hands after touching it.

There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities. 

'''Here are some tips:'' Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums. So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores.

Local availability varies all the way from none to lots depending on country/location. If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.

If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally. Look on the internet for something and confirm that it is pure Ca(OH)2 before purchasing it from a reputable vendor.

If I haven't made this clear enough, let me end this section with a final clarification:
You MUST use proper lime for this tek to work! Make sure you do, good luck!

== Tek 1: The Jimjam party ==

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:''' 
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

Extraction Specific: 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH) 30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2) 125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark) Some Sealable and shakeable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel one Turkey baster or pipette(HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one Stove or Kettle one Pot or Pan

Useful tools one or more Funnels one Rice cooker one Baking pan/large surface area container one or more razor blades/scrapers one or two high quality mason jars 

Tincture tools one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml) one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses one spoon one lighter/candle/heat source

=== Preparation: ===
 [[Image:Materials.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I do not recommend skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent: ===
 [[Image:Dlime.jpg]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear d-limonene solvent floating on top

Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted '''''

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g) 

'''Step 2:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:''' mix with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:''' you can just roll the container around in your hands to mix it.

Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

Mix it well several times over 40-60 minutes. (I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

'''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY.'''

'''Step 3:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Note:Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Alternative Next-Steps ===
'''Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method.
There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB (Step 4)] by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead.

'''↓My preferred method is below↓'''

=== Salting with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:IMG_20200528_061727.jpg]]

Cloudy d-limonene floating on top of yellowish vinegar

'''''This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.'''''

Note 1: Xylene and D-Limonene are very leaky, most containers will eventually start leaking during the salting process. I recommend high quality mason jars that you’ve tested the lids to make sure the solvent doesn’t react with.

'''Step 1:''' Pour some vinegar into the sealable container with the solvent. About 2 shot glasses full.

'''Step 2:''' Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefer to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. Emulsions in this step always resolve pretty easily. No need to be careful.

Agitate the container 3-4 times over 40-60 minutes. The solvent will quickly start to get cloudy and the vinegar will gradually get more yellow.

You don’t have to wait until the solvent gets clear, it doesn’t seem to relate to the process being finished.

'''Step 3:''' Use a turkey baster/pipette to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container. As with the other liquid separations, 90% is okay.

Note 2: Try to get as little of the solvent during the separation as possible. This solvent will leave plant oils and other junk in your end product. That being said, a 1mm layer of solvent atop your vinegar is common using this method.

'''Step 4:'''
Repeat steps 1-3 once in exactly the same way, combine the separated vinegar pulls in a sealable container. Keep it safe because any spill will be a loss of lots of DMT!

For those that want DMT as soon as possible, proceed immediately on to the condensing step after Step 4.

'''Step 5:''' For those more patient/lazy, plan for your next non-polar solvent use.

'''The most efficient/least effort extraction:'''

'''Non-polar pull #1''' - 6-8 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #2''' - 24 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #3''' - 48 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the above 3 pulls should contain 80-90% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all of the vinegar from pulls 1-3 and proceed to the condensing step.

'''Non-polar pull #4''' - 1 week after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #5''' - 2-3 weeks after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the 5 pulls together should contain at least 95% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all the vinegar from pulls 4-5 and do another condensing.

=== Condensing/Tincture Making: ===
 [[Image:Condensing.jpg]]

The process of condensing vinegar from light yellow liquid to a dense red tincture (all pulls from 500g MHRB)

'''This step is just to concentrate the vinegar containing the DMT down to a dense liquid "tincture" which can easily measure dosages by number of drops.'''

The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all of your DMT maintaining a consistent concentration. This tincture will keep indefinitely, I have used the same for 3+ years with no loss of potency.

Note 1: You could technically evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smokeable product. But that would result in a goo which is very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air.

A far more useful alternative to a vinegar tincture would be making a more traditional tincture using ethanol. See [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Ethanol_Tincture this section] for information about making one.

'''There are many steps to do in the condensing, so I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar saltings into one because it makes your house smell very vinegary for a few hours and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times. Moreover, combining tinctures changes their concentrations, requiring re-measuring.'''

'''Step 1:''' Filter the vinegar through a cotton ball in a funnel, then add a bit of water to wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball and pour it all in a pot.

'''Step 2:''' Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 40-50ml

'''Step 3:''' Remove the pot from heat, then use a dropper to carefully filter the liquid through a cotton ball then wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball again with water

'''Step 4:''' Lower the heat to medium low and watch it carefully until it is around starts to become red in color.

Note 2: You can estimate the resulting liquid based on the amount of MHRB used. The combined vinegar from 3 solvent pulls will result in roughly 1tsp/5ml for every 100g MHRB used at 10mg/drop. Generally it's much less liquid than you expect, especially if you're used to dosing with crystals.

'''Step 5:''' As the liquid becomes redder and redder, '''before the liquid is all gone,''' remove the pot from heat, tip the pot to the side and use a dropper to transfer your tincture to a dropper bottle.

'''It is a delicate balance of not removing all liquid, but getting a good concentration. It is best to aim for a little less liquid than a little more for 2 reasons:

You’ll need to rinse the pot with a few mL of water to get all the DMT off, adding additional liquid to the tincture

Adding more liquid is extremely simple, while removing liquid means doing the condensing again.'''

'''A tincture can vary hugely based on a few factors. The color is a simple general indicator of the concentration. Here are pictures of 3 different concentration levels:'''

[[Image:Captude.PNG]]

5mg per drop

[[Image:Capturfde.PNG]]

10mg per drop

[[Image:Captufdare.PNG]]

15mg per drop

More concentration can be done, but tinctures will get thicker and thicker until they are a thick goo (at room temperature) of pure DMT at around 50mg per drop.

For those wanting a more formal measurement of the concentration, proceed on to next optional section.

=== Measuring the tincture: ===
 Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.

Quantitative Concentration (numerical):

- Drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster.

- Put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) '''NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!'''

- Once the liquid has dissolved and it smells strongly, but not of vinegar, turn off the element and let it sit until cool enough to handle.

During the cooling, measure the weight of a razor blade using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.

- Remove the coaster from the element then scrape up the goo with a razor and measured using the scale.

- Subtract the weight of the razor blade then divide the number by 10 and that is the concentration per drop.

- Label the tincture with the concentration.

Note: Don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change!

Qualitative Concentration (subjective): This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca - Use one of the methods from the next section to evaporate 1 drop of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. - If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 2 drops, then 3, 4, etc. until adequate effects are achieved. - Concentration will then be *number* drops = Mild *number* drops = Strong *number* drops = Breakthrough *number* drops = Too Strong!

- Label the tincture with the recommended drops for a dosage.

=== Evaporation and Smoking: ===
 [[Image:Evaporatinsssg.png]]

Preparing a dose using the slow method and smoking DMT off copper using a home-made glass pipe and home-made glass bong

'''''After evaporating all the liquid from some of the tincture you are left with nearly pure DMT acetate goo. DMT acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and decomposes into freebase DMT with heat, so it is readily smokable (and doesn't taste like vinegar)'''''

The Slow and Patient Method

Simply put a number of drops of tincture for a single dose of DMT on your smoking material and let it dry for a few hours before smoking.

'''Smoking materials:'''

Neutral Herb (Mullien, Peppermint)

Maoi Containing Herb (Caapi, Passionflower)

Pre-torched Ceramic Fiber Ball

Pre-Charred Copper Kitchen Scrubber Ball

Silicon Carbide Ceramic Foam

Caution: Vinegar on copper may result in smoking small amounts of copper acetate which is not good for you. I cannot formally recommend this method for long term health without more information/research

The Hot and Quick Method

Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!

'''1: On Glass - Stove/Oven Method'''

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a flat glass coaster (I got my from the dollar store and then removed the rubber feet and glue from the bottom)

- Put the glass onto an electric stove element or into an oven at AS LOW AS POSSIBLE (do not use a gas stovetop)

- After the liquid evaporated and it doesn’t smell of vinegar it is ready. Usually about 1-2 minutes or 5 for fewer drops

- You can either:

a: Scrape up the liquid with a razor blade and transfer it to any smoking material

b: Let the glass cool to the touch then scrape it up with some herb/copper mesh

Note: hot DMT-acetate goo is very liquidy and hard to scrape up, the closer to room temperature it is, the thicker and easier it will be to scrape up.

'''2: With a Spoon - Lighter/Candle Method'''

Note:As much as this method might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a spoon then heat it from below with a lighter or candle flame. Be careful not to heat too quickly or it will spatter and DMT some will be lost.

- Continue to heat until the liquid has all gone and you’re left with a thin red liquidy goo that smells strongly but not of vinegar. A hot spoon will rapidly evaporate excess liquid without a flame below, so you can stop heating slightly before the process is finished.

- Carefully scrape up the goo with some herb/copper mesh. It’s usually best to let it cool for at least 30s before doing so to avoid burning yourself and allowing the goo to cool and thicken.

'''A quick warning about stability.'''

I would caution anyone against making lots of doses ahead of time with the slow or quick method because DMT-acetate seems somewhat unstable outside the tincture.

It seems like heat is the most significant factor in the degredation though, so storing the pre-dosed metal balls in the freezer is recommended before use.

=== Smoking: ===

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

Whether DMT crystals are melted on it, or DMT-acetate goo is put on them doesn't matter, you create a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50), most of them should work relatively interchangeably with DMT-acetates because the crystals are usually melted into a goo before smoking anyway.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 1 ===
You'll need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)
 Dropper Bottle
 Hot Plate/Stovetop
 Copper Kitchen Scrubber
 Turkey baster/pipette (solvent-safe!)

First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick tomato soup.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Add 150ml or more xylene or d-Limonene for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent, this is normal.
Stir the solvent around all the bark-mush. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes.

Gently pour off the solvent (might need to filter it) into a separate solvent-safe container.

Add 2 shot-glasses of vinegar into the solvent and agitate it a few times over 40-50 minutes

Use a turkey baster/pipette to separate the vinegar at the bottom to a separate container then repeat one more time with fresh vinegar

Put the solvent back on the bark-mush. I recommend pouring it off and doing the vinegar step at 1 day and 2 days, early pulls will yield less.

Combine all the vinegar pulls you have and carefully evaporate them until they start turning red. (you can optionally filter it)

Look at the condensing step for a color reference for a good concentration. It is most likely going to be much less liquid than you expect as it is very potent.

Transfer the liquid to a dropper bottle. Now you have a liquid that can be measured by number of drops and when evaporated (with or without heat) leaves a red goo which is readily smokable DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Scrub up the DMT with the ball and it can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

=== Ethanol Tincture ===

Note:75% ethanol dissolves full spectrum jimjam DMT much better than 95% ethanol, I haven't tried anything less like 40% vodka yet though.

To make an ethanol tincture either:
1: Proceed to step 4 below then continue to heat on minumum until a sap-like red goo remains

After it cools add ethanol drop by drop, stirring with a toothpick until the goo is all dissolved.

Use a dropper to transfer to a small dropper bottle to complete your ticture.

2: Evaporate all of the vinegar in a flat-bottom glass dish in an oven on the lowest setting then take it out as soon as (or slightly before) all the liquid is gone.

Once the resultant goo smells strongly, but not of vinegar then let it cool.

Prepare a small glass-dropper with a minimal amount of ethanol (1 gram of DMT dissolves in about 3ml of 75% ethanol)

Scrape up the goo on a razor then use a toothpick to transfer the goo into the bottle to make your tincture.

The ethanol tincture contains freebase jimjam DMT rather than DMT acetate and should be appropriate for directly evaporating on regular or MAOI herbs for changa. Unlike vinegar, the stability of DMT in ethanol is unknown currently (tests ongoing) so use caution with your DMT stores.

----

== Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest ==

=== About Naphtha ===
 Naphtha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though its toxicity is quite benign. '''Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.''' The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naphtha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.

Plus 2 things: 1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple of hours. 2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.

Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.

If you are in the US then VM+P Naphtha is your choice. If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices. If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it: 1. Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs) 2. Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.

(What your product will could like if you follow the tek) [[Image:Spicee.jpg]]

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:'''
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the naphtha and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority of problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

 Two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naphtha won't dissolve/degrade) one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best) one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation one freezer 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH) Some Lime Ca(OH)2 100ml or more Naphtha one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)

Useful tools a few Playing cards one or more razor blades/scrapers Some coffee filters 

=== Preparation: ===
[[Image:Materials2.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I do not recommend skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Naphtha'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Naphtha: ===
 [[Image:Napthaandgoo.JPG]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear naphtha solvent floating on top

'''Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naphtha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted.'''

Caution: Naphtha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do all of the following in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Get a large bowl that your bark-mush container/bowl can easily fit in. Place your container/bowl inside the bottom bowl then add boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the container/bowl or as close to that as possible. This will warm the bark mush indirectly and safely.

'''Step 2:''' Once the bark mush has been thoroughly warmed (it does not need to be hot, just nicely warm), add 1ml naphtha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naphtha or more for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 3:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Stir the bark-mush around to contact the solvent with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Danger: Warm naphtha produces lots of expanding fumes, so you MUST vent it frequently whenever it is closed and if you are using something that may shatter, put on gloves and safety glasses. Also, low quality containers are very likely to leak.

When the bark-naphtha mush has been warmed, but is not too hot to handle, seal the container and roll the container around in your hands to mix it. Regularly open the container to vent the pressure from the warm naphtha. Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

For either the bowl or the container, mix well several times over 40-60 minutes,(I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

Place the container/bowl in the hot water when you’re not mixing. Feel the outside of the bowl/container with the bark-mush from time to time and if it is no longer warm then you can replace/add more boiling water in the bowl underneath.

'''Step 4:''' Clean and dry your precipitation container

I find it easiest to work with a small glass cake-baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals. You can use any naphtha-safe container though, the crystals sometimes float around in plastic containers, but not always.

'''Step 5:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container, DRY THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Once your solvent is in you precipication container, proceed to the next step. If you see some clear liquid (water) under your naphtha, this is not good for the next step. Add the solvent back to the bark and immediately do the seperation again more carefully.

Note: Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Precipitation/Crystallization: ===
 [[Image:Spices.JPG]]

The first pull of naphtha from 500g of MHRB after being in the freezer overnight

'''This step works on the principal that naphtha can dissolve DMT-freebase quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naphtha with DMT-freebase dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.'''

'''Step 1:''' Just pop your precipitation container straight into the freezer. If the naphtha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry this is normal. The naphtha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow, especially on the first pull.

Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but although naphtha smells pretty strong, it doesn't linger too long like d-limonene or xylene.

'''Step 3:''' Keep the naphtha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming. If the naphtha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT-freebase molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.

'''Step 4:''' Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take your precipitation container out of the freezer and very gently pour off the naphtha back into your bark-mush.
Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors) place to lean your precipitation container against, the few drops of excess naphtha will drip off and all of the naphtha surrounding the crystals will evaporate in a couple of hours. Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, however usually just SLOWLY pouring the naphtha off works fine. You may use a coffee filter to catch them if you prefer.

'''Once your container no longer smells like naphtha the DMT-freebase is ready! Scrape them up with a razor or a small spoon and put in a small sealable container or baggie for storage. Keep it in a COOL DRY PLACE because DMT crystals will simply melt on a hot day'''

'''Additional Naphtha Pulls:'''

As I mentioned before, there are recommended timings for pulling with naphtha, but they are planned so you don't need to use extra solvent.
My recommended proceedure is as follows:

Warm and Pull either immediately or at 6-8 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 24 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 48 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''The above 3 pulls should total 80-90% of the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Warm and Pull at 1 week after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 2-3 after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''All 5 pulls together should contain 95% or more than the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Final Notes on Extracting with Tek 2:

- The solvent and the crystals will usually be more yellow with each pull. You won't notice the difference when smoking yellow DMT vs white DMT though. Also, your DMT crystals will often turn more yellow over long periods of time.

- There may be a small film underneath the crystals. I am pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT which are both readily smokable and psychoactive like the white DMT crystals.

- You can do a re-crystallization for larger crystals (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Recrystallization)

- If the first 2 pulls don't cloud or precipitate crystals after 8-12 hours then check something in the extraction did not work correctly. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Common_issues.2FTroubleshooting Common issues/Troubleshooting] because that should not happen.

- Technically you can make a tincture from Tek 2 by salting the naphtha with vinegar or dissolving the crystals in vinegar. This will produce a beautiful amber-colored liquid that can be measured in 2-3 drops rather than with a scale. This is my prefered method, but I know everyone loves pretty crystals, so this might take some of the magic out of Tek 2 for many people.

=== Smoking: ===

[[Image:IMG 20200703 121449.jpg]]

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So I can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

You just gently put a single dose of your DMT crystals on the ball then warm it with a ligher until they have melted and coated the metal and you've created a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50)explore and find your favorite one.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 2 ===
You need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 Naphtha
 Freezer

In a bowl, mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of MHRB is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick porridge.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Use a bowl underneath containing hot water to warm your bark mush.
Add about 100ml naphtha for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush.
Stir the naphtha around all the bark. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes, making sure the bark mush is kept warm the whole time.

Wipe the bottom of your bowl dry, then gently pour off the naphtha into a container which will go in the freezer (optionally through a coffee filter to catch sediment). I use an 8 inch pyrex cake pan.
If the naphtha is at a low level in the container you may want to wrap it in saran wrap to prevent evaporation.

In a couple of hours the naphtha should get cloudy. Slowly over 8-12 hours the DMT will precipitate out of the naphtha and form crystals on the container.
When the naphtha is no longer cloudy then gently pour the naphtha off the crystals and back into your bark mush (you may use a coffee filter if you prefer).
Put the container on its side to allow the naphtha to evaporate. Keep it out of the sunlight because the crystals will melt into a goo at about 40C or so.

When the crystals no longer smell of naphtha they are ready to smoke or whatever. Keep in a dime bag or something. STORE IN A COOL DRY PLACE TO AVOID MELTING!

Your first pull will only contain a portion of the total DMT, I recommend warming the naphtha, seperating and crystallizing again at 1 day, 2 days, 1 week and 2-3 weeks. Each pull will yeild less DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Put a dose of DMT crystals gently on the ball, then slowly heat it until they have all melted into it. At that point the ball can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

== Common issues/Troubleshooting ==

The teks are pretty comprehensive, so as long as you follow the steps you can expect success.

There are 5 likely causes of no DMT or very small yields of DMT. Each of them has to do with the quality of your core extraction materials:

'''1. Your Lime is not Calcium Hydroxide'''

This will mean that the PH of your basified bark mush is not low enough to convert the DMT-acetate to DMT freebase. Adding lime and water to the mix may fix this, but it depends on what your previous "lime" was.

'''2. Your Solvent was not the D-limonene/Xylene/Naphtha that was mentioned in the Teks.'''

This will result in either no DMT being dissolved in the solvent, the solvent mixing with the bark, no precipitation of DMT, no salting of DMT or maybe something else.

If your solvent evaporates on glass without leaving reside, completely dry out your lime-bark-solvent outside until it is crumbly (DO NOT USE HEAT!) and then proceeding to pull with proper solvent. Although it is likely to work, no guarentees.

If your solvent leaves a residue when evaporated on glass then it has additives in it and you risk significant health problems by doing anything further, just throw everything out and start again with fresh MHRB and proper solvent!

'''3. Your MHRB is not MHRB'''

This basically means you have no DMT to extract, so there is no solution to this issue other than getting yourself real MHRB

'''4: Your MHRB is not powdered'''

I have tried about 5x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and got a maximum of 5% the yield as powdered bark. If you have unused bark, you can try to powder it in a really strong blender, but most blenders can't powder MHRB. It might be better to just do a lye tek with your MHRB

'''5. Your vinegar is not 5% acetic acid'''

This will result in a successful, but 5x slower tek as it makes it a lime STB. You will have to wait much longer for the lime to work on the MHRB, but you just need patience and you'll get a full yield

 '''Good luck in all your life's endeavors! '''

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Limtek]]
[[Category:Acid/Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]

Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek

2020-10-07T11:25:47Z

Q21q21:

This tek is not Q21Q21's original idea but rather a culmination of many people's ideas. It is NOT perfect so if you can think of a better way to do ANY part of it then try it and PM me if it works! The tek is written in first person but they are Q21Q21's words.

(Q21Q21 being a fictional alien entity... with internet access)'''

 This tek was inspired by: '''Blueskine''' whose idea for freebasing acetates with heat changed my life! '''Noman''' whose tek on erowid inspired my first extraction '''69ron''' and his mescaline tek that taught me the power of lime '''amor_fati''' whose tek inspired me to try a vinegar step and made the tek over 10x faster '''SyZyGyPSy''' was the first person to report using limonene to extract spice '''Anyone whose post was read and forgot who posted it, you all helped.''' '''Lye''' which is so toxic and nasty.

_____________________
== Introduction ==

'''As a comprehensive guide there's lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.'''

'''If you would like to get right into the "What do I do?" then you can start by reading the Super-short Compressed Tek. (Then the full tek later)
'''
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_1 Tek 1 (Uses xylene/d-limonene)]
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_2 Tek 2 (Uses naphtha)]

== Background Information ==

=== The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark ===

While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis (abbreviated as MHRB)

[[image:MHRBthing.png]]

Mimosa Hostilis Plant, Whole Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark (MHRB), Shredded MHRB, Powdered MHRB

Mimosa Hostilis is a shrub that contains '''N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' and 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids (and some TINY amounts of NMT) in its root-bark . 

Discussions about suppliers of MHRB are no longer allowed on the DMT-Nexus, so it's best to do outside-Nexus searches for suppliers.

'''An extremely important note''' is that I have tried about 10x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and failed each time. Powdered MHRB is the only thing I'd recommend to buy as most blenders cannot powder MHRB properly.

=== Info about the 3 types of DMT contained in MHRB ===

Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information. '''Methods:''' [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Pharmahuasca Pharmahuasca], [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Guide_to_Mucosahuasca Mucosahuasca] or [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17873 Smoking]

''' White N-N-DMT'''
 
 [[Image:Crystals.JPG]] White DMT I extracted using Tek 2

'''White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' is pure DMT. MHRB usually contains about 1% of its weight in '''White DMT''', though yields from extractions of less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.

In the past the ultimate goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just '''White DMT''' in it. 

'''Red "Jungle" DMT'''

[[Image:SANY0069.JPG]] Thick dark red Jungle DMT extracted from by fully depleting the MHRB using naphtha, then pulling with xylene

"Jungle" DMT is also contained in the bark but cannot be extracted into crystals like '''White DMT'''

Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produces effects similar in duration and effects to '''White DMT'''. 
I strongly believe the yellow DMT which MANY people prefer to pure '''White DMT''' is in fact small amounts of Jungle DMT mixed with the '''White DMT.''' I think the cause of this is because Jungle DMT is ever so slightly soluble in naphtha.
An [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=156691 analysis] was done on this Jungle DMT and it is mostly (95%) DMT. Nonetheless I and many others still believe Jungle DMT produces noticeably different effects.

'''Yellow DMT-N-oxide'''

[[Image:SANY0050.JPG]] Crystallized DMT-N-oxide made with peroxide and white DMT

DMT-N-oxide was previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, but in fact Oxides seems unlikely to be present in the extracted DMT in significant amounts at all. (as I mentioned I believe that yellow is Jungle DMT)
 I and many others have smoked DMT which has been in ambient air for months/years without any significant loss of potency. 
Considering my tests (using the Oxides in the picture) suggest Oxides are about 1/3 or less potent than '''white DMT''' or jungle DMT when smoked (waiting on replication of this test to be positive though) then I conclude Oxides are insignificant and need not be worried about.

'''Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product'''

[[Image:Capture.PNG]]

Jimjam DMT I extracted using Tek 1 with d-limonene

If all the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum product called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during Tek 1.

Jimjam is considered by many to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though yields from extractions of more than 2% are not unheard of.

DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like Jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries - make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.

=== About the 2 teks ===
 [[Image:Suolvents.png]] 

Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naphtha they will be referred to as "the solvent"

In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used. '''Tek 2''' uses '''naphtha''' (lighter fluid) while
Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner but also used to dissolve HIPS 3D-printing supports)

(Vegetable oil can also apparently be used for Tek 1, you can search the Nexus for the many long threads talking about using it as a solvent)

'''Naphtha''' needs to be heated to dissolve or else it won't dissolve anything but its unique solubility properties allow for '''White DMT''' to be crystallized out when it is cooled in a freezer.
'''Tek 2''' thus involves a heating-step and a freezer-step that Tek 1 does not have. However, naphtha does not dissolve Jungle DMT very well so the extracted product will be almost entirely '''white DMT''' and leave the Jungle DMT in the MHRB.

d-limonene and xylene dissolve both '''white DMT''' and Jungle DMT at room temperate so Tek 1 doesn't need a heating step. Because of that it will yield full-spectrum product Jimjam DMT but since it is soluble, even when the solvent is cold, freezer precipitation doesn't work, so one of many different methods can be used to isolate the Jimjam DMT from the solvent.

Useful to know: If d-limonene is used, the tek will be

''<nowiki>*100% food-safe*</nowiki>'' 

Note:d-limonene still smells very strong and lingers in your house

'''For a first-timer [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Tek_2:_The_Fluffy_White_Funfest Tek 2] may be better advised than Tek 1 because it requires fewer steps and is well-suited for very small test batches like 30g-50g MHRB. I recommend Tek 1 for larger batches.

That being said, both teks are quite simple - comparable to baking a cake.'''

=== A little info on Lime ===
 [[Image:Lime.png]] 

'''The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is a replacement for lye which is very caustic and toxic.'''

lime is known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.

Until recently using caustic and toxic '''Sodium Hydroxide''' (lye, drain cleaner) was the only option as the base when extracting DMT. Lye is very potentially dangerous

These Teks instead use '''Lime'''. '''Lime''' is a powerful base that is actually food safe. It is powerfully alkaline so take care not to get it in your eyes or inhale it and wash your hands after touching it.

There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities. 

'''Here are some tips:'' Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums. So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores.

Local availability varies all the way from none to lots depending on country/location. If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.

If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally. Look on the internet for something and confirm that it is pure Ca(OH)2 before purchasing it from a reputable vendor.

If I haven't made this clear enough, let me end this section with a final clarification:
You MUST use proper lime for this tek to work! Make sure you do, good luck!

== Tek 1: The Jimjam party ==

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:''' 
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

Extraction Specific: 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH) 30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2) 125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark) Some Sealable and shakeable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel one Turkey baster or pipette(HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one Stove or Kettle one Pot or Pan

Useful tools one or more Funnels one Rice cooker one Baking pan/large surface area container one or more razor blades/scrapers one or two high quality mason jars 

Tincture tools one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml) one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses one spoon one lighter/candle/heat source

=== Preparation: ===
 [[Image:Materials.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I do not recommend skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent: ===
 [[Image:Dlime.jpg]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear d-limonene solvent floating on top

Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted '''''

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g) 

'''Step 2:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:''' mix with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:''' you can just roll the container around in your hands to mix it.

Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

Mix it well several times over 40-60 minutes. (I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

'''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY.'''

'''Step 3:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Note:Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Alternative Next-Steps ===
'''Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method.
There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB (Step 4)] by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead.

'''↓My preferred method is below↓'''

=== Salting with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:IMG_20200528_061727.jpg]]

Cloudy d-limonene floating on top of yellowish vinegar

'''''This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.'''''

Note 1: Xylene and D-Limonene are very leaky, most containers will eventually start leaking during the salting process. I recommend high quality mason jars that you’ve tested the lids to make sure the solvent doesn’t react with.

'''Step 1:''' Pour some vinegar into the sealable container with the solvent. About 2 shot glasses full.

'''Step 2:''' Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefer to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. Emulsions in this step always resolve pretty easily. No need to be careful.

Agitate the container 3-4 times over 40-60 minutes. The solvent will quickly start to get cloudy and the vinegar will gradually get more yellow.

You don’t have to wait until the solvent gets clear, it doesn’t seem to relate to the process being finished.

'''Step 3:''' Use a turkey baster/pipette to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container. As with the other liquid separations, 90% is okay.

Note 2: Try to get as little of the solvent during the separation as possible. This solvent will leave plant oils and other junk in your end product. That being said, a 1mm layer of solvent atop your vinegar is common using this method.

'''Step 4:'''
Repeat steps 1-3 once in exactly the same way, combine the separated vinegar pulls in a sealable container. Keep it safe because any spill will be a loss of lots of DMT!

For those that want DMT as soon as possible, proceed immediately on to the condensing step after Step 4.

'''Step 5:''' For those more patient/lazy, plan for your next non-polar solvent use.

'''The most efficient/least effort extraction:'''

'''Non-polar pull #1''' - 6-8 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #2''' - 24 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #3''' - 48 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the above 3 pulls should contain 80-90% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all of the vinegar from pulls 1-3 and proceed to the condensing step.

'''Non-polar pull #4''' - 1 week after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #5''' - 2-3 weeks after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the 5 pulls together should contain at least 95% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all the vinegar from pulls 4-5 and do another condensing.

=== Condensing/Tincture Making: ===
 [[Image:Condensing.jpg]]

The process of condensing vinegar from light yellow liquid to a dense red tincture (all pulls from 500g MHRB)

'''This step is just to concentrate the vinegar containing the DMT down to a dense liquid "tincture" which can easily measure dosages by number of drops.'''

The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all of your DMT maintaining a consistent concentration. This tincture will keep indefinitely, I have used the same for 3+ years with no loss of potency.

Note 1: You could technically evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smokeable product. But that would result in a goo which is very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air.

A far more useful alternative to a vinegar tincture would be making a more traditional tincture using ethanol. See [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Ethanol_Tincture this section] for information about making one.

'''There are many steps to do in the condensing, so I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar saltings into one because it makes your house smell very vinegary for a few hours and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times. Moreover, combining tinctures changes their concentrations, requiring re-measuring.'''

'''Step 1:''' Filter the vinegar through a cotton ball in a funnel, then add a bit of water to wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball and pour it all in a pot.

'''Step 2:''' Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 40-50ml

'''Step 3:''' Remove the pot from heat, then use a dropper to carefully filter the liquid through a cotton ball then wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball again with water

'''Step 4:''' Lower the heat to medium low and watch it carefully until it is around starts to become red in color.

Note 2: You can estimate the resulting liquid based on the amount of MHRB used. The combined vinegar from 3 solvent pulls will result in roughly 1tsp/5ml for every 100g MHRB used at 10mg/drop. Generally it's much less liquid than you expect, especially if you're used to dosing with crystals.

'''Step 5:''' As the liquid becomes redder and redder, '''before the liquid is all gone,''' remove the pot from heat, tip the pot to the side and use a dropper to transfer your tincture to a dropper bottle.

'''It is a delicate balance of not removing all liquid, but getting a good concentration. It is best to aim for a little less liquid than a little more for 2 reasons:

You’ll need to rinse the pot with a few mL of water to get all the DMT off, adding additional liquid to the tincture

Adding more liquid is extremely simple, while removing liquid means doing the condensing again.'''

'''A tincture can vary hugely based on a few factors. The color is a simple general indicator of the concentration. Here are pictures of 3 different concentration levels:'''

[[Image:Captude.PNG]]

5mg per drop

[[Image:Capturfde.PNG]]

10mg per drop

[[Image:Captufdare.PNG]]

15mg per drop

More concentration can be done, but tinctures will get thicker and thicker until they are a thick goo (at room temperature) of pure DMT at around 50mg per drop.

For those wanting a more formal measurement of the concentration, proceed on to next optional section.

=== Measuring the tincture: ===
 Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.

Quantitative Concentration (numerical):

- Drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster.

- Put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) '''NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!'''

- Once the liquid has dissolved and it smells strongly, but not of vinegar, turn off the element and let it sit until cool enough to handle.

During the cooling, measure the weight of a razor blade using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.

- Remove the coaster from the element then scrape up the goo with a razor and measured using the scale.

- Subtract the weight of the razor blade then divide the number by 10 and that is the concentration per drop.

- Label the tincture with the concentration.

Note: Don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change!

Qualitative Concentration (subjective): This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca - Use one of the methods from the next section to evaporate 1 drop of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. - If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 2 drops, then 3, 4, etc. until adequate effects are achieved. - Concentration will then be *number* drops = Mild *number* drops = Strong *number* drops = Breakthrough *number* drops = Too Strong!

- Label the tincture with the recommended drops for a dosage.

=== Evaporation and Smoking: ===
 [[Image:Evaporatinsssg.png]]

Preparing a dose using the slow method and smoking DMT off copper using a home-made glass pipe and home-made glass bong

'''''After evaporating all the liquid from some of the tincture you are left with nearly pure DMT acetate goo. DMT acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and decomposes into freebase DMT with heat, so it is readily smokable (and doesn't taste like vinegar)'''''

The Slow and Patient Method

Simply put a number of drops of tincture for a single dose of DMT on your smoking material and let it dry for a few hours before smoking.

'''Smoking materials:'''

Neutral Herb (Mullien, Peppermint)

Maoi Containing Herb (Caapi, Passionflower)

Pre-torched Ceramic Fiber Ball

Pre-Charred Copper Kitchen Scrubber Ball

Silicon Carbide Ceramic Foam

Caution: Vinegar on copper may result in smoking small amounts of copper acetate which is not good for you. I cannot formally recommend this method for long term health without more information/research

The Hot and Quick Method

Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!

'''1: On Glass - Stove/Oven Method'''

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a flat glass coaster (I got my from the dollar store and then removed the rubber feet and glue from the bottom)

- Put the glass onto an electric stove element or into an oven at AS LOW AS POSSIBLE (do not use a gas stovetop)

- After the liquid evaporated and it doesn’t smell of vinegar it is ready. Usually about 1-2 minutes or 5 for fewer drops

- You can either:

a: Scrape up the liquid with a razor blade and transfer it to any smoking material

b: Let the glass cool to the touch then scrape it up with some herb/copper mesh

Note: hot DMT-acetate goo is very liquidy and hard to scrape up, the closer to room temperature it is, the thicker and easier it will be to scrape up.

'''2: With a Spoon - Lighter/Candle Method'''

Note:As much as this method might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a spoon then heat it from below with a lighter or candle flame. Be careful not to heat too quickly or it will spatter and DMT some will be lost.

- Continue to heat until the liquid has all gone and you’re left with a thin red liquidy goo that smells strongly but not of vinegar. A hot spoon will rapidly evaporate excess liquid without a flame below, so you can stop heating slightly before the process is finished.

- Carefully scrape up the goo with some herb/copper mesh. It’s usually best to let it cool for at least 30s before doing so to avoid burning yourself and allowing the goo to cool and thicken.

'''A quick warning about stability.'''

I would caution anyone against making lots of doses ahead of time with the slow or quick method because DMT-acetate seems somewhat unstable outside the tincture.

It seems like heat is the most significant factor in the degredation though, so storing the pre-dosed metal balls in the freezer is recommended before use.

=== Smoking: ===

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

Whether DMT crystals are melted on it, or DMT-acetate goo is put on them doesn't matter, you create a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50), most of them should work relatively interchangeably with DMT-acetates because the crystals are usually melted into a goo before smoking anyway.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 1 ===
You'll need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)
 Dropper Bottle
 Hot Plate/Stovetop
 Copper Kitchen Scrubber
 Turkey baster/pipette (solvent-safe!)

First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick tomato soup.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Add 150ml or more xylene or d-Limonene for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent, this is normal.
Stir the solvent around all the bark-mush. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes.

Gently pour off the solvent (might need to filter it) into a separate solvent-safe container.

Add 2 shot-glasses of vinegar into the solvent and agitate it a few times over 40-50 minutes

Use a turkey baster/pipette to separate the vinegar at the bottom to a separate container then repeat one more time with fresh vinegar

Put the solvent back on the bark-mush. I recommend pouring it off and doing the vinegar step at 1 day and 2 days, early pulls will yield less.

Combine all the vinegar pulls you have and carefully evaporate them until they start turning red. (you can optionally filter it)

Look at the condensing step for a color reference for a good concentration. It is most likely going to be much less liquid than you expect as it is very potent.

Transfer the liquid to a dropper bottle. Now you have a liquid that can be measured by number of drops and when evaporated (with or without heat) leaves a red goo which is readily smokable DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Scrub up the DMT with the ball and it can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

=== Ethanol Tincture ===

Note:75% ethanol dissolves full spectrum jimjam DMT much better than 95% ethanol, I haven't tried anything less like 40% vodka yet though.

To make an ethanol tincture either:
1: Proceed to step 4 below then continue to heat on minumum until a sap-like red goo remains

After it cools add ethanol drop by drop, stirring with a toothpick until the goo is all dissolved.

Use a dropper to transfer to a small dropper bottle to complete your ticture.

2: Evaporate all of the vinegar in a flat-bottom glass dish in an oven on the lowest setting then take it out as soon as (or slightly before) all the liquid is gone.

Once the resultant goo smells strongly, but not of vinegar then let it cool.

Prepare a small glass-dropper with a minimal amount of ethanol (1 gram of DMT dissolves in about 3ml of 75% ethanol)

Scrape up the goo on a razor then use a toothpick to transfer the goo into the bottle to make your tincture.

The ethanol tincture contains freebase jimjam DMT rather than DMT acetate and should be appropriate for directly evaporating on regular or MAOI herbs for changa. Unlike vinegar, the stability of DMT in ethanol is unknown currently (tests ongoing) so use caution with your DMT stores.

----

== Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest ==

=== About Naphtha ===
 Naphtha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though its toxicity is quite benign. '''Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.''' The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naphtha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.

Plus 2 things: 1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple of hours. 2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.

Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.

If you are in the US then VM+P Naphtha is your choice. If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices. If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it: 1. Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs) 2. Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.

(What your product will could like if you follow the tek) [[Image:Spicee.jpg]]

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:'''
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the naphtha and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority of problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

 Two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naphtha won't dissolve/degrade) one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best) one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation one freezer 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH) Some Lime Ca(OH)2 100ml or more Naphtha one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)

Useful tools a few Playing cards one or more razor blades/scrapers Some coffee filters 

=== Preparation: ===
[[Image:Materials2.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I do not recommend skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Naphtha'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Naphtha: ===
 [[Image:Napthaandgoo.JPG]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear naphtha solvent floating on top

'''Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naphtha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted.'''

Caution: Naphtha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do all of the following in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Get a large bowl that your bark-mush container/bowl can easily fit in. Place your container/bowl inside the bottom bowl then add boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the container/bowl or as close to that as possible. This will warm the bark mush indirectly and safely.

'''Step 2:''' Once the bark mush has been thoroughly warmed (it does not need to be hot, just nicely warm), add 1ml naphtha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naphtha or more for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 3:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Stir the bark-mush around to contact the solvent with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Danger: Warm naphtha produces lots of expanding fumes, so you MUST vent it frequently whenever it is closed and if you are using something that may shatter, put on gloves and safety glasses. Also, low quality containers are very likely to leak.

When the bark-naphtha mush has been warmed, but is not too hot to handle, seal the container and roll the container around in your hands to mix it. Regularly open the container to vent the pressure from the warm naphtha. Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

For either the bowl or the container, mix well several times over 40-60 minutes,(I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

Place the container/bowl in the hot water when you’re not mixing. Feel the outside of the bowl/container with the bark-mush from time to time and if it is no longer warm then you can replace/add more boiling water in the bowl underneath.

'''Step 4:''' Clean and dry your precipitation container

I find it easiest to work with a small glass cake-baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals. You can use any naphtha-safe container though, the crystals sometimes float around in plastic containers, but not always.

'''Step 5:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container, DRY THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Once your solvent is in you precipication container, proceed to the next step. If you see some clear liquid (water) under your naphtha, this is not good for the next step. Add the solvent back to the bark and immediately do the seperation again more carefully.

Note: Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Precipitation/Crystallization: ===
 [[Image:Spices.JPG]]

The first pull of naphtha from 500g of MHRB after being in the freezer overnight

'''This step works on the principal that naphtha can dissolve DMT-freebase quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naphtha with DMT-freebase dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.'''

'''Step 1:''' Just pop your precipitation container straight into the freezer. If the naphtha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry this is normal. The naphtha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow, especially on the first pull.

Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but although naphtha smells pretty strong, it doesn't linger too long like d-limonene or xylene.

'''Step 3:''' Keep the naphtha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming. If the naphtha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT-freebase molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.

'''Step 4:''' Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take your precipitation container out of the freezer and very gently pour off the naphtha back into your bark-mush.
Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors) place to lean your precipitation container against, the few drops of excess naphtha will drip off and all of the naphtha surrounding the crystals will evaporate in a couple of hours. Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, however usually just SLOWLY pouring the naphtha off works fine. You may use a coffee filter to catch them if you prefer.

'''Once your container no longer smells like naphtha the DMT-freebase is ready! Scrape them up with a razor or a small spoon and put in a small sealable container or baggie for storage. Keep it in a COOL DRY PLACE because DMT crystals will simply melt on a hot day'''

'''Additional Naphtha Pulls:'''

As I mentioned before, there are recommended timings for pulling with naphtha, but they are planned so you don't need to use extra solvent.
My recommended proceedure is as follows:

Warm and Pull either immediately or at 6-8 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 24 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 48 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''The above 3 pulls should total 80-90% of the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Warm and Pull at 1 week after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 2-3 after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''All 5 pulls together should contain 95% or more than the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Final Notes on Extracting with Tek 2:

- The solvent and the crystals will usually be more yellow with each pull. You won't notice the difference when smoking yellow DMT vs white DMT though. Also, your DMT crystals will often turn more yellow over long periods of time.

- There may be a small film underneath the crystals. I am pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT which are both readily smokable and psychoactive like the white DMT crystals.

- You can do a re-crystallization for larger crystals (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Recrystallization)

- If the first 2 pulls don't cloud or precipitate crystals after 8-12 hours then check something in the extraction did not work correctly. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Common_issues.2FTroubleshooting Common issues/Troubleshooting] because that should not happen.

- Technically you can make a tincture from Tek 2 by salting the naphtha with vinegar or dissolving the crystals in vinegar. This will produce a beautiful amber-colored liquid that can be measured in 2-3 drops rather than with a scale. This is my prefered method, but I know everyone loves pretty crystals, so this might take some of the magic out of Tek 2 for many people.

=== Smoking: ===

[[Image:IMG 20200703 121449.jpg]]

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So I can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

You just gently put a single dose of your DMT crystals on the ball then warm it with a ligher until they have melted and coated the metal and you've created a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50)explore and find your favorite one.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 2 ===
You need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 Naphtha
 Freezer

In a bowl, mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of MHRB is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick porridge.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Use a bowl underneath containing hot water to warm your bark mush.
Add about 100ml naphtha for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush.
Stir the naphtha around all the bark. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes, making sure the bark mush is kept warm the whole time.

Wipe the bottom of your bowl dry, then gently pour off the naphtha into a container which will go in the freezer (optionally through a coffee filter to catch sediment). I use an 8 inch pyrex cake pan.
If the naphtha is at a low level in the container you may want to wrap it in saran wrap to prevent evaporation.

In a couple of hours the naphtha should get cloudy. Slowly over 8-12 hours the DMT will precipitate out of the naphtha and form crystals on the container.
When the naphtha is no longer cloudy then gently pour the naphtha off the crystals and back into your bark mush (you may use a coffee filter if you prefer).
Put the container on its side to allow the naphtha to evaporate. Keep it out of the sunlight because the crystals will melt into a goo at about 40C or so.

When the crystals no longer smell of naphtha they are ready to smoke or whatever. Keep in a dime bag or something. STORE IN A COOL DRY PLACE TO AVOID MELTING!

Your first pull will only contain a portion of the total DMT, I recommend warming the naphtha, seperating and crystallizing again at 1 day, 2 days, 1 week and 2-3 weeks. Each pull will yeild less DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Put a dose of DMT crystals gently on the ball, then slowly heat it until they have all melted into it. At that point the ball can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

== Common issues/Troubleshooting ==

The teks are pretty comprehensive, so as long as you follow the steps you can expect success.

There are 5 likely causes of no DMT or very small yields of DMT. Each of them has to do with the quality of your core extraction materials:

'''1. Your Lime is not Calcium Hydroxide'''

This will mean that the PH of your basified bark mush is not low enough to convert the DMT-acetate to DMT freebase. Adding lime and water to the mix may fix this, but it depends on what your previous "lime" was.

'''2. Your Solvent was not the D-limonene/Xylene/Naphtha that was mentioned in the Teks.'''

This will result in either no DMT being dissolved in the solvent, the solvent mixing with the bark, no precipitation of DMT, no salting of DMT or maybe something else.

If your solvent evaporates on glass without leaving reside, completely dry out your lime-bark-solvent outside until it is crumbly (DO NOT USE HEAT!) and then proceeding to pull with proper solvent. Although it is likely to work, no guarentees.

If your solvent leaves a residue when evaporated on glass then it has additives in it and you risk significant health problems by doing anything further, just throw everything out and start again with fresh MHRB and proper solvent!

'''3. Your MHRB is not MHRB'''

This basically means you have no DMT to extract, so there is no solution to this issue other than getting yourself real MHRB

'''4: Your MHRB is not powdered'''

I have tried about 5x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and got a maximum of 5% the yield as powdered bark. If you have unused bark, you can try to powder it in a really strong blender, but most blenders can't powder MHRB. It might be better to just do a lye tek with your MHRB

'''5. Your vinegar is not 5% acetic acid'''

This will result in a successful, but 5x slower tek as it makes it a lime STB. You will have to wait much longer for the lime to work on the MHRB, but you just need patience and you'll get a full yield

 '''Good luck in all your life's endeavors! '''

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Limtek]]
[[Category:Acid/Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]

Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek

2020-10-07T11:21:52Z

Q21q21:

This tek is not Q21Q21's original idea but rather a culmination of many people's ideas. It is NOT perfect so if you can think of a better way to do ANY part of it then try it and PM me if it works! The tek is written in first person but they are Q21Q21's words.

(Q21Q21 being a fictional alien entity... with internet access)'''

 This tek was inspired by: '''Blueskine''' whose idea for freebasing acetates with heat changed my life! '''Noman''' whose tek on erowid inspired my first extraction '''69ron''' and his mescaline tek that taught me the power of lime '''amor_fati''' whose tek inspired me to try a vinegar step and made the tek over 10x faster '''SyZyGyPSy''' was the first person to report using limonene to extract spice '''Anyone whose post was read and forgot who posted it, you all helped.''' '''Lye''' which is so toxic and nasty.

_____________________
== Introduction ==

'''As a comprehensive guide there's lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.'''

'''If you would like to get right into the "What do I do?" then you can start by reading the Super-short Compressed Tek. (Then the full tek later)
'''
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_1 Tek 1 (Uses xylene/d-limonene)]
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_2 Tek 2 (Uses naphtha)]

== Background Information ==

=== The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark ===

While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis (abbreviated as MHRB)

[[image:MHRBthing.png]]

Mimosa Hostilis Plant, Whole Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark (MHRB), Shredded MHRB, Powdered MHRB

Mimosa Hostilis is a shrub that contains '''N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' and 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids (and some TINY amounts of NMT) in its root-bark . 

Discussions about suppliers of MHRB are no longer allowed on the DMT-Nexus, so it's best to do outside-Nexus searches for suppliers.

'''An extremely important note''' is that I have tried about 10x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and failed each time. Powdered MHRB is the only thing I'd recommend to buy as most blenders cannot powder MHRB properly.

=== Info about the 3 types of DMT contained in MHRB ===

Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information. '''Methods:''' [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Pharmahuasca Pharmahuasca], [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Guide_to_Mucosahuasca Mucosahuasca] or [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17873 Smoking]

''' White N-N-DMT'''
 
 [[Image:Crystals.JPG]] White DMT I extracted using Tek 2

'''White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' is pure DMT. MHRB usually contains about 1% of its weight in '''White DMT''', though yields from extractions of less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.

In the past the ultimate goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just '''White DMT''' in it. 

'''Red "Jungle" DMT'''

[[Image:SANY0069.JPG]] Thick dark red Jungle DMT extracted from by fully depleting the MHRB using naphtha, then pulling with xylene

"Jungle" DMT is also contained in the bark but cannot be extracted into crystals like '''White DMT'''

Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produces effects similar in duration and effects to '''White DMT'''. 
I strongly believe the yellow DMT which MANY people prefer to pure '''White DMT''' is in fact small amounts of Jungle DMT mixed with the '''White DMT.''' I think the cause of this is because Jungle DMT is ever so slightly soluble in naphtha.
An [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=156691 analysis] was done on this Jungle DMT and it is mostly (95%) DMT. Nonetheless I and many others still believe Jungle DMT produces noticeably different effects.

'''Yellow DMT-N-oxide'''

[[Image:SANY0050.JPG]] Crystallized DMT-N-oxide made with peroxide and white DMT

DMT-N-oxide was previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, but in fact Oxides seems unlikely to be present in the extracted DMT in significant amounts at all. (as I mentioned I believe that yellow is Jungle DMT)
 I and many others have smoked DMT which has been in ambient air for months/years without any significant loss of potency. 
Considering my tests (using the Oxides in the picture) suggest Oxides are about 1/3 or less potent than '''white DMT''' or jungle DMT when smoked (waiting on replication of this test to be positive though) then I conclude Oxides are insignificant and need not be worried about.

'''Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product'''

[[Image:Capture.PNG]]

Jimjam DMT I extracted using Tek 1 with d-limonene

If all the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum product called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during Tek 1.

Jimjam is considered by many to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though yields from extractions of more than 2% are not unheard of.

DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like Jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries - make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.

=== About the 2 teks ===
 [[Image:Suolvents.png]] 

Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naphtha they will be referred to as "the solvent"

In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used. '''Tek 2''' uses '''naphtha''' (lighter fluid) while
Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner but also used to dissolve HIPS 3D-printing supports)

(Vegetable oil can also apparently be used for Tek 1, you can search the Nexus for the many long threads talking about using it as a solvent)

'''Naphtha''' needs to be heated to dissolve or else it won't dissolve anything but its unique solubility properties allow for '''White DMT''' to be crystallized out when it is cooled in a freezer.
'''Tek 2''' thus involves a heating-step and a freezer-step that Tek 1 does not have. However, naphtha does not dissolve Jungle DMT very well so the extracted product will be almost entirely '''white DMT''' and leave the Jungle DMT in the MHRB.

d-limonene and xylene dissolve both '''white DMT''' and Jungle DMT at room temperate so Tek 1 doesn't need a heating step. Because of that it will yield full-spectrum product Jimjam DMT but since it is soluble, even when the solvent is cold, freezer precipitation doesn't work, so one of many different methods can be used to isolate the Jimjam DMT from the solvent.

Useful to know: If d-limonene is used, the tek will be

''<nowiki>*100% food-safe*</nowiki>'' 

Note:d-limonene still smells very strong and lingers in your house

'''For a first-timer [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Tek_2:_The_Fluffy_White_Funfest Tek 2] may be better advised than Tek 1 because it requires fewer steps and is well-suited for very small test batches like 30g-50g MHRB. I recommend Tek 1 for larger batches.

That being said, both teks are quite simple - comparable to baking a cake.'''

=== A little info on Lime ===
 [[Image:Lime.png]] 

'''The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is a replacement for lye which is very caustic and toxic.'''

lime is known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.

Until recently using caustic and toxic '''Sodium Hydroxide''' (lye, drain cleaner) was the only option as the base when extracting DMT. Lye is very potentially dangerous

These Teks instead use '''Lime'''. '''Lime''' is a powerful base that is actually food safe. It is powerfully alkaline so take care not to get it in your eyes or inhale it and wash your hands after touching it.

There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities. 

'''Here are some tips:'' Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums. So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores.

Local availability varies all the way from none to lots depending on country/location. If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.

If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally. Look on the internet for something and confirm that it is pure Ca(OH)2 before purchasing it from a reputable vendor.

If I haven't made this clear enough, let me end this section with a final clarification:
You MUST use proper lime for this tek to work! Make sure you do, good luck!

== Tek 1: The Jimjam party ==

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:''' 
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

Extraction Specific: 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH) 30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2) 125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark) Some Sealable and shakeable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel one Turkey baster or pipette(HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one Stove or Kettle one Pot or Pan

Useful tools one or more Funnels one Rice cooker one Baking pan/large surface area container one or more razor blades/scrapers one or two high quality mason jars 

Tincture tools one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml) one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses one spoon one lighter/candle/heat source

=== Preparation: ===
 [[Image:Materials.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I do not recommend skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent: ===
 [[Image:Dlime.jpg]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear d-limonene solvent floating on top

Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted '''''

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g) 

'''Step 2:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:''' mix with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:''' you can just roll the container around in your hands to mix it.

Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

Mix it well several times over 40-60 minutes. (I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

'''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY.'''

'''Step 3:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Note:Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Alternative Next-Steps ===
'''Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method.
There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB (Step 4)] by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead.

'''↓My preferred method is below↓'''

=== Salting with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:IMG_20200528_061727.jpg]]

Cloudy d-limonene floating on top of yellowish vinegar

'''''This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.'''''

Note 1: Xylene and D-Limonene are very leaky, most containers will eventually start leaking during the salting process. I recommend high quality mason jars that you’ve tested the lids to make sure the solvent doesn’t react with.

'''Step 1:''' Pour some vinegar into the sealable container with the solvent. About 2 shot glasses full.

'''Step 2:''' Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefer to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. Emulsions in this step always resolve pretty easily. No need to be careful.

Agitate the container 3-4 times over 40-60 minutes. The solvent will quickly start to get cloudy and the vinegar will gradually get more yellow.

You don’t have to wait until the solvent gets clear, it doesn’t seem to relate to the process being finished.

'''Step 3:''' Use a turkey baster/pipette to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container. As with the other liquid separations, 90% is okay.

Note 2: Try to get as little of the solvent during the separation as possible. This solvent will leave plant oils and other junk in your end product. That being said, a 1mm layer of solvent atop your vinegar is common using this method.

'''Step 4:'''
Repeat steps 1-3 once in exactly the same way, combine the separated vinegar pulls in a sealable container. Keep it safe because any spill will be a loss of lots of DMT!

For those that want DMT as soon as possible, proceed immediately on to the condensing step after Step 4.

'''Step 5:''' For those more patient/lazy, plan for your next non-polar solvent use.

'''The most efficient/least effort extraction:'''

'''Non-polar pull #1''' - 6-8 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #2''' - 24 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #3''' - 48 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the above 3 pulls should contain 80-90% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all of the vinegar from pulls 1-3 and proceed to the condensing step.

'''Non-polar pull #4''' - 1 week after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #5''' - 2-3 weeks after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the 5 pulls together should contain at least 95% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all the vinegar from pulls 4-5 and do another condensing.

=== Condensing/Tincture Making: ===
 [[Image:Condensing.jpg]]

The process of condensing vinegar from light yellow liquid to a dense red tincture (all pulls from 500g MHRB)

'''This step is just to concentrate the vinegar containing the DMT down to a dense liquid "tincture" which can easily measure dosages by number of drops.'''

The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all of your DMT maintaining a consistent concentration. This tincture will keep indefinitely, I have used the same for 3+ years with no loss of potency.

Note 1: You could technically evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smokeable product. But that would result in a goo which is very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air.

A far more useful alternative to a vinegar tincture would be making a more traditional tincture using ethanol. See [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Ethanol_Tincture this section] for information about making one.

'''There are many steps to do in the condensing, so I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar saltings into one because it makes your house smell very vinegary for a few hours and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times. Moreover, combining tinctures changes their concentrations, requiring re-measuring.'''

'''Step 1:''' Filter the vinegar through a cotton ball in a funnel, then add a bit of water to wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball and pour it all in a pot.

'''Step 2:''' Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 40-50ml

'''Step 3:''' Remove the pot from heat, then use a dropper to carefully filter the liquid through a cotton ball then wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball again with water

'''Step 4:''' Lower the heat to medium low and watch it carefully until it is around starts to become red in color.

Note 2: You can estimate the resulting liquid based on the amount of MHRB used. The combined vinegar from 3 solvent pulls will result in roughly 1tsp/5ml for every 100g MHRB used at 10mg/drop. Generally it's much less liquid than you expect, especially if you're used to dosing with crystals.

'''Step 5:''' As the liquid becomes redder and redder, '''before the liquid is all gone,''' remove the pot from heat, tip the pot to the side and use a dropper to transfer your tincture to a dropper bottle.

'''It is a delicate balance of not removing all liquid, but getting a good concentration. It is best to aim for a little less liquid than a little more for 2 reasons:

You’ll need to rinse the pot with a few mL of water to get all the DMT off, adding additional liquid to the tincture

Adding more liquid is extremely simple, while removing liquid means doing the condensing again.'''

'''A tincture can vary hugely based on a few factors. The color is a simple general indicator of the concentration. Here are pictures of 3 different concentration levels:'''

[[Image:Captude.PNG]]

5mg per drop

[[Image:Capturfde.PNG]]

10mg per drop

[[Image:Captufdare.PNG]]

15mg per drop

More concentration can be done, but tinctures will get thicker and thicker until they are a thick goo (at room temperature) of pure DMT at around 50mg per drop.

For those wanting a more formal measurement of the concentration, proceed on to next optional section.

=== Measuring the tincture: ===
 Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.

Quantitative Concentration (numerical):

- Drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster.

- Put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) '''NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!'''

- Once the liquid has dissolved and it smells strongly, but not of vinegar, turn off the element and let it sit until cool enough to handle.

During the cooling, measure the weight of a razor blade using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.

- Remove the coaster from the element then scrape up the goo with a razor and measured using the scale.

- Subtract the weight of the razor blade then divide the number by 10 and that is the concentration per drop.

- Label the tincture with the concentration.

Note: Don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change!

Qualitative Concentration (subjective): This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca - Use one of the methods from the next section to evaporate 1 drop of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. - If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 2 drops, then 3, 4, etc. until adequate effects are achieved. - Concentration will then be *number* drops = Mild *number* drops = Strong *number* drops = Breakthrough *number* drops = Too Strong!

- Label the tincture with the recommended drops for a dosage.

=== Evaporation and Smoking: ===
 [[Image:Evaporatinsssg.png]]

Preparing a dose using the slow method and smoking DMT off copper using a home-made glass pipe and home-made glass bong

'''''After evaporating all the liquid from some of the tincture you are left with nearly pure DMT acetate goo. DMT acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and decomposes into freebase DMT with heat, so it is readily smokable (and doesn't taste like vinegar)'''''

The Slow and Patient Method

Simply put a number of drops of tincture for a single dose of DMT on your smoking material and let it dry for a few hours before smoking.

'''Smoking materials:'''

Neutral Herb (Mullien, Peppermint)

Maoi Containing Herb (Caapi, Passionflower)

Pre-torched Ceramic Fiber Ball

Pre-Charred Copper Kitchen Scrubber Ball

Silicon Carbide Ceramic Foam

Caution: Vinegar on copper may result in smoking small amounts of copper acetate which is not good for you. I cannot formally recommend this method for long term health without more information/research

The Hot and Quick Method

Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!

'''1: On Glass - Stove/Oven Method'''

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a flat glass coaster (I got my from the dollar store and then removed the rubber feet and glue from the bottom)

- Put the glass onto an electric stove element or into an oven at AS LOW AS POSSIBLE (do not use a gas stovetop)

- After the liquid evaporated and it doesn’t smell of vinegar it is ready. Usually about 1-2 minutes or 5 for fewer drops

- You can either:

a: Scrape up the liquid with a razor blade and transfer it to any smoking material

b: Let the glass cool to the touch then scrape it up with some herb/copper mesh

Note: hot DMT-acetate goo is very liquidy and hard to scrape up, the closer to room temperature it is, the thicker and easier it will be to scrape up.

'''2: With a Spoon - Lighter/Candle Method'''

Note:As much as this method might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a spoon then heat it from below with a lighter or candle flame. Be careful not to heat too quickly or it will spatter and DMT some will be lost.

- Continue to heat until the liquid has all gone and you’re left with a thin red liquidy goo that smells strongly but not of vinegar. A hot spoon will rapidly evaporate excess liquid without a flame below, so you can stop heating slightly before the process is finished.

- Carefully scrape up the goo with some herb/copper mesh. It’s usually best to let it cool for at least 30s before doing so to avoid burning yourself and allowing the goo to cool and thicken.

'''A quick warning about stability.'''

I would caution anyone against making lots of doses ahead of time with the slow or quick method because DMT-acetate seems somewhat unstable outside the tincture.

In an area with average temperature of 30ºC and regular indirect sun exposure it took DMT-acetate on stainless steel mesh 2 months to degrade to under 25% potency.

I have recently started tests on sun exposure vs no sun exposure.

=== Smoking: ===

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

Whether DMT crystals are melted on it, or DMT-acetate goo is put on them doesn't matter, you create a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50), most of them should work relatively interchangeably with DMT-acetates because the crystals are usually melted into a goo before smoking anyway.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 1 ===
You'll need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)
 Dropper Bottle
 Hot Plate/Stovetop
 Copper Kitchen Scrubber
 Turkey baster/pipette (solvent-safe!)

First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick tomato soup.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Add 150ml or more xylene or d-Limonene for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent, this is normal.
Stir the solvent around all the bark-mush. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes.

Gently pour off the solvent (might need to filter it) into a separate solvent-safe container.

Add 2 shot-glasses of vinegar into the solvent and agitate it a few times over 40-50 minutes

Use a turkey baster/pipette to separate the vinegar at the bottom to a separate container then repeat one more time with fresh vinegar

Put the solvent back on the bark-mush. I recommend pouring it off and doing the vinegar step at 1 day and 2 days, early pulls will yield less.

Combine all the vinegar pulls you have and carefully evaporate them until they start turning red. (you can optionally filter it)

Look at the condensing step for a color reference for a good concentration. It is most likely going to be much less liquid than you expect as it is very potent.

Transfer the liquid to a dropper bottle. Now you have a liquid that can be measured by number of drops and when evaporated (with or without heat) leaves a red goo which is readily smokable DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Scrub up the DMT with the ball and it can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

=== Ethanol Tincture ===

Note:75% ethanol dissolves full spectrum jimjam DMT much better than 95% ethanol, I haven't tried anything less like 40% vodka yet though.

To make an ethanol tincture either:
1: Proceed to step 4 below then continue to heat on minumum until a sap-like red goo remains
After it cools add ethanol drop by drop, stirring with a toothpick until the goo is all dissolved.
Use a dropper to transfer to a small dropper bottle to complete your ticture.

2: Evaporate all of the vinegar in a flat-bottom glass dish in an oven on the lowest setting then take it out as soon as (or slightly before) all the liquid is gone.
nce the resultant goo smells strongly, but not of vinegar then let it cool.
Prepare a small glass-dropper with a minimal amount of ethanol (1 gram of DMT dissolves in about 3ml of 75% ethanol)
Scrape up the goo on a razor then use a toothpick to transfer the goo into the bottle to make your tincture.

The ethanol tincture contains freebase jimjam DMT rather than DMT acetate and should be appropriate for directly evaporating on regular or MAOI herbs for changa. Unlike vinegar, the stability of DMT in ethanol is unknown currently (tests ongoing) so use caution with your DMT stores.

----

== Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest ==

=== About Naphtha ===
 Naphtha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though its toxicity is quite benign. '''Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.''' The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naphtha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.

Plus 2 things: 1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple of hours. 2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.

Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.

If you are in the US then VM+P Naphtha is your choice. If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices. If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it: 1. Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs) 2. Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.

(What your product will could like if you follow the tek) [[Image:Spicee.jpg]]

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:'''
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the naphtha and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority of problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

 Two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naphtha won't dissolve/degrade) one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best) one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation one freezer 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH) Some Lime Ca(OH)2 100ml or more Naphtha one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)

Useful tools a few Playing cards one or more razor blades/scrapers Some coffee filters 

=== Preparation: ===
[[Image:Materials2.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I do not recommend skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Naphtha'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Naphtha: ===
 [[Image:Napthaandgoo.JPG]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear naphtha solvent floating on top

'''Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naphtha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted.'''

Caution: Naphtha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do all of the following in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Get a large bowl that your bark-mush container/bowl can easily fit in. Place your container/bowl inside the bottom bowl then add boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the container/bowl or as close to that as possible. This will warm the bark mush indirectly and safely.

'''Step 2:''' Once the bark mush has been thoroughly warmed (it does not need to be hot, just nicely warm), add 1ml naphtha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naphtha or more for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 3:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Stir the bark-mush around to contact the solvent with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Danger: Warm naphtha produces lots of expanding fumes, so you MUST vent it frequently whenever it is closed and if you are using something that may shatter, put on gloves and safety glasses. Also, low quality containers are very likely to leak.

When the bark-naphtha mush has been warmed, but is not too hot to handle, seal the container and roll the container around in your hands to mix it. Regularly open the container to vent the pressure from the warm naphtha. Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

For either the bowl or the container, mix well several times over 40-60 minutes,(I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

Place the container/bowl in the hot water when you’re not mixing. Feel the outside of the bowl/container with the bark-mush from time to time and if it is no longer warm then you can replace/add more boiling water in the bowl underneath.

'''Step 4:''' Clean and dry your precipitation container

I find it easiest to work with a small glass cake-baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals. You can use any naphtha-safe container though, the crystals sometimes float around in plastic containers, but not always.

'''Step 5:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container, DRY THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Once your solvent is in you precipication container, proceed to the next step. If you see some clear liquid (water) under your naphtha, this is not good for the next step. Add the solvent back to the bark and immediately do the seperation again more carefully.

Note: Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Precipitation/Crystallization: ===
 [[Image:Spices.JPG]]

The first pull of naphtha from 500g of MHRB after being in the freezer overnight

'''This step works on the principal that naphtha can dissolve DMT-freebase quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naphtha with DMT-freebase dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.'''

'''Step 1:''' Just pop your precipitation container straight into the freezer. If the naphtha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry this is normal. The naphtha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow, especially on the first pull.

Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but although naphtha smells pretty strong, it doesn't linger too long like d-limonene or xylene.

'''Step 3:''' Keep the naphtha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming. If the naphtha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT-freebase molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.

'''Step 4:''' Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take your precipitation container out of the freezer and very gently pour off the naphtha back into your bark-mush.
Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors) place to lean your precipitation container against, the few drops of excess naphtha will drip off and all of the naphtha surrounding the crystals will evaporate in a couple of hours. Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, however usually just SLOWLY pouring the naphtha off works fine. You may use a coffee filter to catch them if you prefer.

'''Once your container no longer smells like naphtha the DMT-freebase is ready! Scrape them up with a razor or a small spoon and put in a small sealable container or baggie for storage. Keep it in a COOL DRY PLACE because DMT crystals will simply melt on a hot day'''

'''Additional Naphtha Pulls:'''

As I mentioned before, there are recommended timings for pulling with naphtha, but they are planned so you don't need to use extra solvent.
My recommended proceedure is as follows:

Warm and Pull either immediately or at 6-8 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 24 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 48 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''The above 3 pulls should total 80-90% of the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Warm and Pull at 1 week after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 2-3 after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''All 5 pulls together should contain 95% or more than the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Final Notes on Extracting with Tek 2:

- The solvent and the crystals will usually be more yellow with each pull. You won't notice the difference when smoking yellow DMT vs white DMT though. Also, your DMT crystals will often turn more yellow over long periods of time.

- There may be a small film underneath the crystals. I am pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT which are both readily smokable and psychoactive like the white DMT crystals.

- You can do a re-crystallization for larger crystals (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Recrystallization)

- If the first 2 pulls don't cloud or precipitate crystals after 8-12 hours then check something in the extraction did not work correctly. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Common_issues.2FTroubleshooting Common issues/Troubleshooting] because that should not happen.

- Technically you can make a tincture from Tek 2 by salting the naphtha with vinegar or dissolving the crystals in vinegar. This will produce a beautiful amber-colored liquid that can be measured in 2-3 drops rather than with a scale. This is my prefered method, but I know everyone loves pretty crystals, so this might take some of the magic out of Tek 2 for many people.

=== Smoking: ===

[[Image:IMG 20200703 121449.jpg]]

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So I can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

You just gently put a single dose of your DMT crystals on the ball then warm it with a ligher until they have melted and coated the metal and you've created a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50)explore and find your favorite one.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 2 ===
You need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 Naphtha
 Freezer

In a bowl, mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of MHRB is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick porridge.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Use a bowl underneath containing hot water to warm your bark mush.
Add about 100ml naphtha for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush.
Stir the naphtha around all the bark. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes, making sure the bark mush is kept warm the whole time.

Wipe the bottom of your bowl dry, then gently pour off the naphtha into a container which will go in the freezer (optionally through a coffee filter to catch sediment). I use an 8 inch pyrex cake pan.
If the naphtha is at a low level in the container you may want to wrap it in saran wrap to prevent evaporation.

In a couple of hours the naphtha should get cloudy. Slowly over 8-12 hours the DMT will precipitate out of the naphtha and form crystals on the container.
When the naphtha is no longer cloudy then gently pour the naphtha off the crystals and back into your bark mush (you may use a coffee filter if you prefer).
Put the container on its side to allow the naphtha to evaporate. Keep it out of the sunlight because the crystals will melt into a goo at about 40C or so.

When the crystals no longer smell of naphtha they are ready to smoke or whatever. Keep in a dime bag or something. STORE IN A COOL DRY PLACE TO AVOID MELTING!

Your first pull will only contain a portion of the total DMT, I recommend warming the naphtha, seperating and crystallizing again at 1 day, 2 days, 1 week and 2-3 weeks. Each pull will yeild less DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Put a dose of DMT crystals gently on the ball, then slowly heat it until they have all melted into it. At that point the ball can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

== Common issues/Troubleshooting ==

The teks are pretty comprehensive, so as long as you follow the steps you can expect success.

There are 5 likely causes of no DMT or very small yields of DMT. Each of them has to do with the quality of your core extraction materials:

'''1. Your Lime is not Calcium Hydroxide'''

This will mean that the PH of your basified bark mush is not low enough to convert the DMT-acetate to DMT freebase. Adding lime and water to the mix may fix this, but it depends on what your previous "lime" was.

'''2. Your Solvent was not the D-limonene/Xylene/Naphtha that was mentioned in the Teks.'''

This will result in either no DMT being dissolved in the solvent, the solvent mixing with the bark, no precipitation of DMT, no salting of DMT or maybe something else.

If your solvent evaporates on glass without leaving reside, completely dry out your lime-bark-solvent outside until it is crumbly (DO NOT USE HEAT!) and then proceeding to pull with proper solvent. Although it is likely to work, no guarentees.

If your solvent leaves a residue when evaporated on glass then it has additives in it and you risk significant health problems by doing anything further, just throw everything out and start again with fresh MHRB and proper solvent!

'''3. Your MHRB is not MHRB'''

This basically means you have no DMT to extract, so there is no solution to this issue other than getting yourself real MHRB

'''4: Your MHRB is not powdered'''

I have tried about 5x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and got a maximum of 5% the yield as powdered bark. If you have unused bark, you can try to powder it in a really strong blender, but most blenders can't powder MHRB. It might be better to just do a lye tek with your MHRB

'''5. Your vinegar is not 5% acetic acid'''

This will result in a successful, but 5x slower tek as it makes it a lime STB. You will have to wait much longer for the lime to work on the MHRB, but you just need patience and you'll get a full yield

 '''Good luck in all your life's endeavors! '''

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Limtek]]
[[Category:Acid/Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]

Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek

2020-10-07T11:20:05Z

Q21q21:

This tek is not Q21Q21's original idea but rather a culmination of many people's ideas. It is NOT perfect so if you can think of a better way to do ANY part of it then try it and PM me if it works! The tek is written in first person but they are Q21Q21's words.

(Q21Q21 being a fictional alien entity... with internet access)'''

 This tek was inspired by: '''Blueskine''' whose idea for freebasing acetates with heat changed my life! '''Noman''' whose tek on erowid inspired my first extraction '''69ron''' and his mescaline tek that taught me the power of lime '''amor_fati''' whose tek inspired me to try a vinegar step and made the tek over 10x faster '''SyZyGyPSy''' was the first person to report using limonene to extract spice '''Anyone whose post was read and forgot who posted it, you all helped.''' '''Lye''' which is so toxic and nasty.

_____________________
== Introduction ==

'''As a comprehensive guide there's lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.'''

'''If you would like to get right into the "What do I do?" then you can start by reading the Super-short Compressed Tek. (Then the full tek later)
'''
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_1 Tek 1 (Uses xylene/d-limonene)]
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_2 Tek 2 (Uses naphtha)]

== Background Information ==

=== The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark ===

While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis (abbreviated as MHRB)

[[image:MHRBthing.png]]

Mimosa Hostilis Plant, Whole Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark (MHRB), Shredded MHRB, Powdered MHRB

Mimosa Hostilis is a shrub that contains '''N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' and 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids (and some TINY amounts of NMT) in its root-bark . 

Discussions about suppliers of MHRB are no longer allowed on the DMT-Nexus, so it's best to do outside-Nexus searches for suppliers.

'''An extremely important note''' is that I have tried about 10x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and failed each time. Powdered MHRB is the only thing I'd recommend to buy as most blenders cannot powder MHRB properly.

=== Info about the 3 types of DMT contained in MHRB ===

Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information. '''Methods:''' [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Pharmahuasca Pharmahuasca], [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Guide_to_Mucosahuasca Mucosahuasca] or [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17873 Smoking]

''' White N-N-DMT'''
 
 [[Image:Crystals.JPG]] White DMT I extracted using Tek 2

'''White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' is pure DMT. MHRB usually contains about 1% of its weight in '''White DMT''', though yields from extractions of less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.

In the past the ultimate goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just '''White DMT''' in it. 

'''Red "Jungle" DMT'''

[[Image:SANY0069.JPG]] Thick dark red Jungle DMT extracted from by fully depleting the MHRB using naphtha, then pulling with xylene

"Jungle" DMT is also contained in the bark but cannot be extracted into crystals like '''White DMT'''

Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produces effects similar in duration and effects to '''White DMT'''. 
I strongly believe the yellow DMT which MANY people prefer to pure '''White DMT''' is in fact small amounts of Jungle DMT mixed with the '''White DMT.''' I think the cause of this is because Jungle DMT is ever so slightly soluble in naphtha.
An [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=156691 analysis] was done on this Jungle DMT and it is mostly (95%) DMT. Nonetheless I and many others still believe Jungle DMT produces noticeably different effects.

'''Yellow DMT-N-oxide'''

[[Image:SANY0050.JPG]] Crystallized DMT-N-oxide made with peroxide and white DMT

DMT-N-oxide was previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, but in fact Oxides seems unlikely to be present in the extracted DMT in significant amounts at all. (as I mentioned I believe that yellow is Jungle DMT)
 I and many others have smoked DMT which has been in ambient air for months/years without any significant loss of potency. 
Considering my tests (using the Oxides in the picture) suggest Oxides are about 1/3 or less potent than '''white DMT''' or jungle DMT when smoked (waiting on replication of this test to be positive though) then I conclude Oxides are insignificant and need not be worried about.

'''Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product'''

[[Image:Capture.PNG]]

Jimjam DMT I extracted using Tek 1 with d-limonene

If all the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum product called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during Tek 1.

Jimjam is considered by many to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though yields from extractions of more than 2% are not unheard of.

DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like Jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries - make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.

=== About the 2 teks ===
 [[Image:Suolvents.png]] 

Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naphtha they will be referred to as "the solvent"

In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used. '''Tek 2''' uses '''naphtha''' (lighter fluid) while
Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner but also used to dissolve HIPS 3D-printing supports)

(Vegetable oil can also apparently be used for Tek 1, you can search the Nexus for the many long threads talking about using it as a solvent)

'''Naphtha''' needs to be heated to dissolve or else it won't dissolve anything but its unique solubility properties allow for '''White DMT''' to be crystallized out when it is cooled in a freezer.
'''Tek 2''' thus involves a heating-step and a freezer-step that Tek 1 does not have. However, naphtha does not dissolve Jungle DMT very well so the extracted product will be almost entirely '''white DMT''' and leave the Jungle DMT in the MHRB.

d-limonene and xylene dissolve both '''white DMT''' and Jungle DMT at room temperate so Tek 1 doesn't need a heating step. Because of that it will yield full-spectrum product Jimjam DMT but since it is soluble, even when the solvent is cold, freezer precipitation doesn't work, so one of many different methods can be used to isolate the Jimjam DMT from the solvent.

Useful to know: If d-limonene is used, the tek will be

''<nowiki>*100% food-safe*</nowiki>'' 

Note:d-limonene still smells very strong and lingers in your house

'''For a first-timer [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Tek_2:_The_Fluffy_White_Funfest Tek 2] may be better advised than Tek 1 because it requires fewer steps and is well-suited for very small test batches like 30g-50g MHRB. I recommend Tek 1 for larger batches.

That being said, both teks are quite simple - comparable to baking a cake.'''

=== A little info on Lime ===
 [[Image:Lime.png]] 

'''The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is a replacement for lye which is very caustic and toxic.'''

lime is known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.

Until recently using caustic and toxic '''Sodium Hydroxide''' (lye, drain cleaner) was the only option as the base when extracting DMT. Lye is very potentially dangerous

These Teks instead use '''Lime'''. '''Lime''' is a powerful base that is actually food safe. It is powerfully alkaline so take care not to get it in your eyes or inhale it and wash your hands after touching it.

There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities. 

'''Here are some tips:'' Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums. So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores.

Local availability varies all the way from none to lots depending on country/location. If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.

If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally. Look on the internet for something and confirm that it is pure Ca(OH)2 before purchasing it from a reputable vendor.

If I haven't made this clear enough, let me end this section with a final clarification:
You MUST use proper lime for this tek to work! Make sure you do, good luck!

== Tek 1: The Jimjam party ==

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:''' 
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

Extraction Specific: 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH) 30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2) 125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark) Some Sealable and shakeable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel one Turkey baster or pipette(HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one Stove or Kettle one Pot or Pan

Useful tools one or more Funnels one Rice cooker one Baking pan/large surface area container one or more razor blades/scrapers one or two high quality mason jars 

Tincture tools one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml) one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses one spoon one lighter/candle/heat source

=== Preparation: ===
 [[Image:Materials.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I do not recommend skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent: ===
 [[Image:Dlime.jpg]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear d-limonene solvent floating on top

Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted '''''

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g) 

'''Step 2:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:''' mix with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:''' you can just roll the container around in your hands to mix it.

Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

Mix it well several times over 40-60 minutes. (I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

'''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY.'''

'''Step 3:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Note:Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Alternative Next-Steps ===
'''Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method.
There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB (Step 4)] by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead.

'''↓My preferred method is below↓'''

=== Salting with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:IMG_20200528_061727.jpg]]

Cloudy d-limonene floating on top of yellowish vinegar

'''''This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.'''''

Note 1: Xylene and D-Limonene are very leaky, most containers will eventually start leaking during the salting process. I recommend high quality mason jars that you’ve tested the lids to make sure the solvent doesn’t react with.

'''Step 1:''' Pour some vinegar into the sealable container with the solvent. About 2 shot glasses full.

'''Step 2:''' Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefer to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. Emulsions in this step always resolve pretty easily. No need to be careful.

Agitate the container 3-4 times over 40-60 minutes. The solvent will quickly start to get cloudy and the vinegar will gradually get more yellow.

You don’t have to wait until the solvent gets clear, it doesn’t seem to relate to the process being finished.

'''Step 3:''' Use a turkey baster/pipette to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container. As with the other liquid separations, 90% is okay.

Note 2: Try to get as little of the solvent during the separation as possible. This solvent will leave plant oils and other junk in your end product. That being said, a 1mm layer of solvent atop your vinegar is common using this method.

'''Step 4:'''
Repeat steps 1-3 once in exactly the same way, combine the separated vinegar pulls in a sealable container. Keep it safe because any spill will be a loss of lots of DMT!

For those that want DMT as soon as possible, proceed immediately on to the condensing step after Step 4.

'''Step 5:''' For those more patient/lazy, plan for your next non-polar solvent use.

'''The most efficient/least effort extraction:'''

'''Non-polar pull #1''' - 6-8 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #2''' - 24 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #3''' - 48 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the above 3 pulls should contain 80-90% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all of the vinegar from pulls 1-3 and proceed to the condensing step.

'''Non-polar pull #4''' - 1 week after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #5''' - 2-3 weeks after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the 5 pulls together should contain at least 95% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all the vinegar from pulls 4-5 and do another condensing.

=== Condensing/Tincture Making: ===
 [[Image:Condensing.jpg]]

The process of condensing vinegar from light yellow liquid to a dense red tincture (all pulls from 500g MHRB)

'''This step is just to concentrate the vinegar containing the DMT down to a dense liquid "tincture" which can easily measure dosages by number of drops.'''

The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all of your DMT maintaining a consistent concentration. This tincture will keep indefinitely, I have used the same for 3+ years with no loss of potency.

Note 1: You could technically evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smokeable product. But that would result in a goo which is very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air.

A far more useful alternative to a vinegar tincture would be making a more traditional tincture using ethanol. See this section for information about making one.

'''There are many steps to do in the condensing, so I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar saltings into one because it makes your house smell very vinegary for a few hours and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times. Moreover, combining tinctures changes their concentrations, requiring re-measuring.'''

'''Step 1:''' Filter the vinegar through a cotton ball in a funnel, then add a bit of water to wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball and pour it all in a pot.

'''Step 2:''' Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 40-50ml

'''Step 3:''' Remove the pot from heat, then use a dropper to carefully filter the liquid through a cotton ball then wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball again with water

'''Step 4:''' Lower the heat to medium low and watch it carefully until it is around starts to become red in color.

Note 2: You can estimate the resulting liquid based on the amount of MHRB used. The combined vinegar from 3 solvent pulls will result in roughly 1tsp/5ml for every 100g MHRB used at 10mg/drop. Generally it's much less liquid than you expect, especially if you're used to dosing with crystals.

'''Step 5:''' As the liquid becomes redder and redder, '''before the liquid is all gone,''' remove the pot from heat, tip the pot to the side and use a dropper to transfer your tincture to a dropper bottle.

'''It is a delicate balance of not removing all liquid, but getting a good concentration. It is best to aim for a little less liquid than a little more for 2 reasons:

You’ll need to rinse the pot with a few mL of water to get all the DMT off, adding additional liquid to the tincture

Adding more liquid is extremely simple, while removing liquid means doing the condensing again.'''

'''A tincture can vary hugely based on a few factors. The color is a simple general indicator of the concentration. Here are pictures of 3 different concentration levels:'''

[[Image:Captude.PNG]]

5mg per drop

[[Image:Capturfde.PNG]]

10mg per drop

[[Image:Captufdare.PNG]]

15mg per drop

More concentration can be done, but tinctures will get thicker and thicker until they are a thick goo (at room temperature) of pure DMT at around 50mg per drop.

For those wanting a more formal measurement of the concentration, proceed on to next optional section.

=== Measuring the tincture: ===
 Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.

Quantitative Concentration (numerical):

- Drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster.

- Put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) '''NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!'''

- Once the liquid has dissolved and it smells strongly, but not of vinegar, turn off the element and let it sit until cool enough to handle.

During the cooling, measure the weight of a razor blade using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.

- Remove the coaster from the element then scrape up the goo with a razor and measured using the scale.

- Subtract the weight of the razor blade then divide the number by 10 and that is the concentration per drop.

- Label the tincture with the concentration.

Note: Don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change!

Qualitative Concentration (subjective): This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca - Use one of the methods from the next section to evaporate 1 drop of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. - If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 2 drops, then 3, 4, etc. until adequate effects are achieved. - Concentration will then be *number* drops = Mild *number* drops = Strong *number* drops = Breakthrough *number* drops = Too Strong!

- Label the tincture with the recommended drops for a dosage.

=== Evaporation and Smoking: ===
 [[Image:Evaporatinsssg.png]]

Preparing a dose using the slow method and smoking DMT off copper using a home-made glass pipe and home-made glass bong

'''''After evaporating all the liquid from some of the tincture you are left with nearly pure DMT acetate goo. DMT acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and decomposes into freebase DMT with heat, so it is readily smokable (and doesn't taste like vinegar)'''''

The Slow and Patient Method

Simply put a number of drops of tincture for a single dose of DMT on your smoking material and let it dry for a few hours before smoking.

'''Smoking materials:'''

Neutral Herb (Mullien, Peppermint)

Maoi Containing Herb (Caapi, Passionflower)

Pre-torched Ceramic Fiber Ball

Pre-Charred Copper Kitchen Scrubber Ball

Silicon Carbide Ceramic Foam

Caution: Vinegar on copper may result in smoking small amounts of copper acetate which is not good for you. I cannot formally recommend this method for long term health without more information/research

The Hot and Quick Method

Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!

'''1: On Glass - Stove/Oven Method'''

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a flat glass coaster (I got my from the dollar store and then removed the rubber feet and glue from the bottom)

- Put the glass onto an electric stove element or into an oven at AS LOW AS POSSIBLE (do not use a gas stovetop)

- After the liquid evaporated and it doesn’t smell of vinegar it is ready. Usually about 1-2 minutes or 5 for fewer drops

- You can either:

a: Scrape up the liquid with a razor blade and transfer it to any smoking material

b: Let the glass cool to the touch then scrape it up with some herb/copper mesh

Note: hot DMT-acetate goo is very liquidy and hard to scrape up, the closer to room temperature it is, the thicker and easier it will be to scrape up.

'''2: With a Spoon - Lighter/Candle Method'''

Note:As much as this method might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a spoon then heat it from below with a lighter or candle flame. Be careful not to heat too quickly or it will spatter and DMT some will be lost.

- Continue to heat until the liquid has all gone and you’re left with a thin red liquidy goo that smells strongly but not of vinegar. A hot spoon will rapidly evaporate excess liquid without a flame below, so you can stop heating slightly before the process is finished.

- Carefully scrape up the goo with some herb/copper mesh. It’s usually best to let it cool for at least 30s before doing so to avoid burning yourself and allowing the goo to cool and thicken.

'''A quick warning about stability.'''

I would caution anyone against making lots of doses ahead of time with the slow or quick method because DMT-acetate seems somewhat unstable outside the tincture.

In an area with average temperature of 30ºC and regular indirect sun exposure it took DMT-acetate on stainless steel mesh 2 months to degrade to under 25% potency.

I have recently started tests on sun exposure vs no sun exposure.

=== Smoking: ===

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

Whether DMT crystals are melted on it, or DMT-acetate goo is put on them doesn't matter, you create a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50), most of them should work relatively interchangeably with DMT-acetates because the crystals are usually melted into a goo before smoking anyway.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 1 ===
You'll need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)
 Dropper Bottle
 Hot Plate/Stovetop
 Copper Kitchen Scrubber
 Turkey baster/pipette (solvent-safe!)

First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick tomato soup.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Add 150ml or more xylene or d-Limonene for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent, this is normal.
Stir the solvent around all the bark-mush. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes.

Gently pour off the solvent (might need to filter it) into a separate solvent-safe container.

Add 2 shot-glasses of vinegar into the solvent and agitate it a few times over 40-50 minutes

Use a turkey baster/pipette to separate the vinegar at the bottom to a separate container then repeat one more time with fresh vinegar

Put the solvent back on the bark-mush. I recommend pouring it off and doing the vinegar step at 1 day and 2 days, early pulls will yield less.

Combine all the vinegar pulls you have and carefully evaporate them until they start turning red. (you can optionally filter it)

Look at the condensing step for a color reference for a good concentration. It is most likely going to be much less liquid than you expect as it is very potent.

Transfer the liquid to a dropper bottle. Now you have a liquid that can be measured by number of drops and when evaporated (with or without heat) leaves a red goo which is readily smokable DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Scrub up the DMT with the ball and it can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

=== Ethanol Tincture ===

Note:75% ethanol dissolves full spectrum jimjam DMT much better than 95% ethanol, I haven't tried anything less like 40% vodka yet though.

To make an ethanol tincture either:
1: Proceed to step 4 below then continue to heat on minumum until a sap-like red goo remains
After it cools add ethanol drop by drop, stirring with a toothpick until the goo is all dissolved.
Use a dropper to transfer to a small dropper bottle to complete your ticture.

2: Evaporate all of the vinegar in a flat-bottom glass dish in an oven on the lowest setting then take it out as soon as (or slightly before) all the liquid is gone.
nce the resultant goo smells strongly, but not of vinegar then let it cool.
Prepare a small glass-dropper with a minimal amount of ethanol (1 gram of DMT dissolves in about 3ml of 75% ethanol)
Scrape up the goo on a razor then use a toothpick to transfer the goo into the bottle to make your tincture.

The ethanol tincture contains freebase jimjam DMT rather than DMT acetate and should be appropriate for directly evaporating on regular or MAOI herbs for changa. Unlike vinegar, the stability of DMT in ethanol is unknown currently (tests ongoing) so use caution with your DMT stores.

----

== Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest ==

=== About Naphtha ===
 Naphtha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though its toxicity is quite benign. '''Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.''' The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naphtha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.

Plus 2 things: 1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple of hours. 2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.

Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.

If you are in the US then VM+P Naphtha is your choice. If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices. If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it: 1. Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs) 2. Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.

(What your product will could like if you follow the tek) [[Image:Spicee.jpg]]

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:'''
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the naphtha and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority of problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

 Two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naphtha won't dissolve/degrade) one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best) one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation one freezer 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH) Some Lime Ca(OH)2 100ml or more Naphtha one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)

Useful tools a few Playing cards one or more razor blades/scrapers Some coffee filters 

=== Preparation: ===
[[Image:Materials2.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I do not recommend skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Naphtha'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Naphtha: ===
 [[Image:Napthaandgoo.JPG]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear naphtha solvent floating on top

'''Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naphtha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted.'''

Caution: Naphtha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do all of the following in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Get a large bowl that your bark-mush container/bowl can easily fit in. Place your container/bowl inside the bottom bowl then add boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the container/bowl or as close to that as possible. This will warm the bark mush indirectly and safely.

'''Step 2:''' Once the bark mush has been thoroughly warmed (it does not need to be hot, just nicely warm), add 1ml naphtha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naphtha or more for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 3:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Stir the bark-mush around to contact the solvent with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Danger: Warm naphtha produces lots of expanding fumes, so you MUST vent it frequently whenever it is closed and if you are using something that may shatter, put on gloves and safety glasses. Also, low quality containers are very likely to leak.

When the bark-naphtha mush has been warmed, but is not too hot to handle, seal the container and roll the container around in your hands to mix it. Regularly open the container to vent the pressure from the warm naphtha. Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

For either the bowl or the container, mix well several times over 40-60 minutes,(I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

Place the container/bowl in the hot water when you’re not mixing. Feel the outside of the bowl/container with the bark-mush from time to time and if it is no longer warm then you can replace/add more boiling water in the bowl underneath.

'''Step 4:''' Clean and dry your precipitation container

I find it easiest to work with a small glass cake-baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals. You can use any naphtha-safe container though, the crystals sometimes float around in plastic containers, but not always.

'''Step 5:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container, DRY THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Once your solvent is in you precipication container, proceed to the next step. If you see some clear liquid (water) under your naphtha, this is not good for the next step. Add the solvent back to the bark and immediately do the seperation again more carefully.

Note: Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Precipitation/Crystallization: ===
 [[Image:Spices.JPG]]

The first pull of naphtha from 500g of MHRB after being in the freezer overnight

'''This step works on the principal that naphtha can dissolve DMT-freebase quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naphtha with DMT-freebase dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.'''

'''Step 1:''' Just pop your precipitation container straight into the freezer. If the naphtha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry this is normal. The naphtha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow, especially on the first pull.

Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but although naphtha smells pretty strong, it doesn't linger too long like d-limonene or xylene.

'''Step 3:''' Keep the naphtha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming. If the naphtha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT-freebase molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.

'''Step 4:''' Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take your precipitation container out of the freezer and very gently pour off the naphtha back into your bark-mush.
Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors) place to lean your precipitation container against, the few drops of excess naphtha will drip off and all of the naphtha surrounding the crystals will evaporate in a couple of hours. Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, however usually just SLOWLY pouring the naphtha off works fine. You may use a coffee filter to catch them if you prefer.

'''Once your container no longer smells like naphtha the DMT-freebase is ready! Scrape them up with a razor or a small spoon and put in a small sealable container or baggie for storage. Keep it in a COOL DRY PLACE because DMT crystals will simply melt on a hot day'''

'''Additional Naphtha Pulls:'''

As I mentioned before, there are recommended timings for pulling with naphtha, but they are planned so you don't need to use extra solvent.
My recommended proceedure is as follows:

Warm and Pull either immediately or at 6-8 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 24 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 48 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''The above 3 pulls should total 80-90% of the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Warm and Pull at 1 week after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 2-3 after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''All 5 pulls together should contain 95% or more than the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Final Notes on Extracting with Tek 2:

- The solvent and the crystals will usually be more yellow with each pull. You won't notice the difference when smoking yellow DMT vs white DMT though. Also, your DMT crystals will often turn more yellow over long periods of time.

- There may be a small film underneath the crystals. I am pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT which are both readily smokable and psychoactive like the white DMT crystals.

- You can do a re-crystallization for larger crystals (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Recrystallization)

- If the first 2 pulls don't cloud or precipitate crystals after 8-12 hours then check something in the extraction did not work correctly. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Common_issues.2FTroubleshooting Common issues/Troubleshooting] because that should not happen.

- Technically you can make a tincture from Tek 2 by salting the naphtha with vinegar or dissolving the crystals in vinegar. This will produce a beautiful amber-colored liquid that can be measured in 2-3 drops rather than with a scale. This is my prefered method, but I know everyone loves pretty crystals, so this might take some of the magic out of Tek 2 for many people.

=== Smoking: ===

[[Image:IMG 20200703 121449.jpg]]

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So I can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

You just gently put a single dose of your DMT crystals on the ball then warm it with a ligher until they have melted and coated the metal and you've created a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50)explore and find your favorite one.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 2 ===
You need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 Naphtha
 Freezer

In a bowl, mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of MHRB is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick porridge.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Use a bowl underneath containing hot water to warm your bark mush.
Add about 100ml naphtha for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush.
Stir the naphtha around all the bark. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes, making sure the bark mush is kept warm the whole time.

Wipe the bottom of your bowl dry, then gently pour off the naphtha into a container which will go in the freezer (optionally through a coffee filter to catch sediment). I use an 8 inch pyrex cake pan.
If the naphtha is at a low level in the container you may want to wrap it in saran wrap to prevent evaporation.

In a couple of hours the naphtha should get cloudy. Slowly over 8-12 hours the DMT will precipitate out of the naphtha and form crystals on the container.
When the naphtha is no longer cloudy then gently pour the naphtha off the crystals and back into your bark mush (you may use a coffee filter if you prefer).
Put the container on its side to allow the naphtha to evaporate. Keep it out of the sunlight because the crystals will melt into a goo at about 40C or so.

When the crystals no longer smell of naphtha they are ready to smoke or whatever. Keep in a dime bag or something. STORE IN A COOL DRY PLACE TO AVOID MELTING!

Your first pull will only contain a portion of the total DMT, I recommend warming the naphtha, seperating and crystallizing again at 1 day, 2 days, 1 week and 2-3 weeks. Each pull will yeild less DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Put a dose of DMT crystals gently on the ball, then slowly heat it until they have all melted into it. At that point the ball can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

== Common issues/Troubleshooting ==

The teks are pretty comprehensive, so as long as you follow the steps you can expect success.

There are 5 likely causes of no DMT or very small yields of DMT. Each of them has to do with the quality of your core extraction materials:

'''1. Your Lime is not Calcium Hydroxide'''

This will mean that the PH of your basified bark mush is not low enough to convert the DMT-acetate to DMT freebase. Adding lime and water to the mix may fix this, but it depends on what your previous "lime" was.

'''2. Your Solvent was not the D-limonene/Xylene/Naphtha that was mentioned in the Teks.'''

This will result in either no DMT being dissolved in the solvent, the solvent mixing with the bark, no precipitation of DMT, no salting of DMT or maybe something else.

If your solvent evaporates on glass without leaving reside, completely dry out your lime-bark-solvent outside until it is crumbly (DO NOT USE HEAT!) and then proceeding to pull with proper solvent. Although it is likely to work, no guarentees.

If your solvent leaves a residue when evaporated on glass then it has additives in it and you risk significant health problems by doing anything further, just throw everything out and start again with fresh MHRB and proper solvent!

'''3. Your MHRB is not MHRB'''

This basically means you have no DMT to extract, so there is no solution to this issue other than getting yourself real MHRB

'''4: Your MHRB is not powdered'''

I have tried about 5x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and got a maximum of 5% the yield as powdered bark. If you have unused bark, you can try to powder it in a really strong blender, but most blenders can't powder MHRB. It might be better to just do a lye tek with your MHRB

'''5. Your vinegar is not 5% acetic acid'''

This will result in a successful, but 5x slower tek as it makes it a lime STB. You will have to wait much longer for the lime to work on the MHRB, but you just need patience and you'll get a full yield

 '''Good luck in all your life's endeavors! '''

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Limtek]]
[[Category:Acid/Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]

Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek

2020-09-02T12:39:07Z

Q21q21:

This tek is not Q21Q21's original idea but rather a culmination of many people's ideas. It is NOT perfect so if you can think of a better way to do ANY part of it then try it and PM me if it works! The tek is written in first person but they are Q21Q21's words.

(Q21Q21 being a fictional alien entity... with internet access)'''

 This tek was inspired by: '''Blueskine''' whose idea for freebasing acetates with heat changed my life! '''Noman''' whose tek on erowid inspired my first extraction '''69ron''' and his mescaline tek that taught me the power of lime '''amor_fati''' whose tek inspired me to try a vinegar step and made the tek over 10x faster '''SyZyGyPSy''' was the first person to report using limonene to extract spice '''Anyone whose post was read and forgot who posted it, you all helped.''' '''Lye''' which is so toxic and nasty.

_____________________
== Introduction ==

'''As a comprehensive guide there's lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.'''

'''If you would like to get right into the "What do I do?" then you can start by reading the Super-short Compressed Tek. (Then the full tek later)
'''
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_1 Tek 1 (Uses xylene/d-limonene)]
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_2 Tek 2 (Uses naphtha)]

== Background Information ==

=== The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark ===

While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis (abbreviated as MHRB)

[[image:MHRBthing.png]]

Mimosa Hostilis Plant, Whole Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark (MHRB), Shredded MHRB, Powdered MHRB

Mimosa Hostilis is a shrub that contains '''N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' and 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids (and some TINY amounts of NMT) in its root-bark . 

Discussions about suppliers of MHRB are no longer allowed on the DMT-Nexus, so it's best to do outside-Nexus searches for suppliers.

'''An extremely important note''' is that I have tried about 10x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and failed each time. Powdered MHRB is the only thing I'd recommend to buy as most blenders cannot powder MHRB properly.

=== Info about the 3 types of DMT contained in MHRB ===

Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information. '''Methods:''' [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Pharmahuasca Pharmahuasca], [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Guide_to_Mucosahuasca Mucosahuasca] or [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17873 Smoking]

''' White N-N-DMT'''
 
 [[Image:Crystals.JPG]] White DMT I extracted using Tek 2

'''White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' is pure DMT. MHRB usually contains about 1% of its weight in '''White DMT''', though yields from extractions of less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.

In the past the ultimate goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just '''White DMT''' in it. 

'''Red "Jungle" DMT'''

[[Image:SANY0069.JPG]] Thick dark red Jungle DMT extracted from by fully depleting the MHRB using naphtha, then pulling with xylene

"Jungle" DMT is also contained in the bark but cannot be extracted into crystals like '''White DMT'''

Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produces effects similar in duration and effects to '''White DMT'''. 
I strongly believe the yellow DMT which MANY people prefer to pure '''White DMT''' is in fact small amounts of Jungle DMT mixed with the '''White DMT.''' I think the cause of this is because Jungle DMT is ever so slightly soluble in naphtha.
An [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=156691 analysis] was done on this Jungle DMT and it is mostly (95%) DMT. Nonetheless I and many others still believe Jungle DMT produces noticeably different effects.

'''Yellow DMT-N-oxide'''

[[Image:SANY0050.JPG]] Crystallized DMT-N-oxide made with peroxide and white DMT

DMT-N-oxide was previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, but in fact Oxides seems unlikely to be present in the extracted DMT in significant amounts at all. (as I mentioned I believe that yellow is Jungle DMT)
 I and many others have smoked DMT which has been in ambient air for months/years without any significant loss of potency. 
Considering my tests (using the Oxides in the picture) suggest Oxides are about 1/3 or less potent than '''white DMT''' or jungle DMT when smoked (waiting on replication of this test to be positive though) then I conclude Oxides are insignificant and need not be worried about.

'''Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product'''

[[Image:Capture.PNG]]

Jimjam DMT I extracted using Tek 1 with d-limonene

If all the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum product called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during Tek 1.

Jimjam is considered by many to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though yields from extractions of more than 2% are not unheard of.

DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like Jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries - make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.

=== About the 2 teks ===
 [[Image:Suolvents.png]] 

Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naphtha they will be referred to as "the solvent"

In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used. '''Tek 2''' uses '''naphtha''' (lighter fluid) while
Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner but also used to dissolve HIPS 3D-printing supports)

(Vegetable oil can also apparently be used for Tek 1, you can search the Nexus for the many long threads talking about using it as a solvent)

'''Naphtha''' needs to be heated to dissolve or else it won't dissolve anything but its unique solubility properties allow for '''White DMT''' to be crystallized out when it is cooled in a freezer.
'''Tek 2''' thus involves a heating-step and a freezer-step that Tek 1 does not have. However, naphtha does not dissolve Jungle DMT very well so the extracted product will be almost entirely '''white DMT''' and leave the Jungle DMT in the MHRB.

d-limonene and xylene dissolve both '''white DMT''' and Jungle DMT at room temperate so Tek 1 doesn't need a heating step. Because of that it will yield full-spectrum product Jimjam DMT but since it is soluble, even when the solvent is cold, freezer precipitation doesn't work, so one of many different methods can be used to isolate the Jimjam DMT from the solvent.

Useful to know: If d-limonene is used, the tek will be

''<nowiki>*100% food-safe*</nowiki>'' 

Note:d-limonene still smells very strong and lingers in your house

'''For a first-timer [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Tek_2:_The_Fluffy_White_Funfest Tek 2] may be better advised than Tek 1 because it requires fewer steps and is well-suited for very small test batches like 30g-50g MHRB. I recommend Tek 1 for larger batches.

That being said, both teks are quite simple - comparable to baking a cake.'''

=== A little info on Lime ===
 [[Image:Lime.png]] 

'''The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is a replacement for lye which is very caustic and toxic.'''

lime is known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.

Until recently using caustic and toxic '''Sodium Hydroxide''' (lye, drain cleaner) was the only option as the base when extracting DMT. Lye is very potentially dangerous

These Teks instead use '''Lime'''. '''Lime''' is a powerful base that is actually food safe. It is powerfully alkaline so take care not to get it in your eyes or inhale it and wash your hands after touching it.

There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities. 

'''Here are some tips:'' Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums. So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores.

Local availability varies all the way from none to lots depending on country/location. If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.

If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally. Look on the internet for something and confirm that it is pure Ca(OH)2 before purchasing it from a reputable vendor.

If I haven't made this clear enough, let me end this section with a final clarification:
You MUST use proper lime for this tek to work! Make sure you do, good luck!

== Tek 1: The Jimjam party ==

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:''' 
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

Extraction Specific: 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH) 30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2) 125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark) Some Sealable and shakeable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel one Turkey baster or pipette(HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one Stove or Kettle one Pot or Pan

Useful tools one or more Funnels one Rice cooker one Baking pan/large surface area container one or more razor blades/scrapers one or two high quality mason jars 

Tincture tools one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml) one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses one spoon one lighter/candle/heat source

=== Preparation: ===
 [[Image:Materials.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I do not recommend skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent: ===
 [[Image:Dlime.jpg]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear d-limonene solvent floating on top

Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted '''''

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g) 

'''Step 2:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:''' mix with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:''' you can just roll the container around in your hands to mix it.

Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

Mix it well several times over 40-60 minutes. (I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

'''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY.'''

'''Step 3:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Note:Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Alternative Next-Steps ===
'''Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method.
There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB (Step 4)] by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead.

'''↓My preferred method is below↓'''

=== Salting with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:IMG_20200528_061727.jpg]]

Cloudy d-limonene floating on top of yellowish vinegar

'''''This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.'''''

Note 1: Xylene and D-Limonene are very leaky, most containers will eventually start leaking during the salting process. I recommend high quality mason jars that you’ve tested the lids to make sure the solvent doesn’t react with.

'''Step 1:''' Pour some vinegar into the sealable container with the solvent. About 2 shot glasses full.

'''Step 2:''' Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefer to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. Emulsions in this step always resolve pretty easily. No need to be careful.

Agitate the container 3-4 times over 40-60 minutes. The solvent will quickly start to get cloudy and the vinegar will gradually get more yellow.

You don’t have to wait until the solvent gets clear, it doesn’t seem to relate to the process being finished.

'''Step 3:''' Use a turkey baster/pipette to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container. As with the other liquid separations, 90% is okay.

Note 2: Try to get as little of the solvent during the separation as possible. This solvent will leave plant oils and other junk in your end product. That being said, a 1mm layer of solvent atop your vinegar is common using this method.

'''Step 4:'''
Repeat steps 1-3 once in exactly the same way, combine the separated vinegar pulls in a sealable container. Keep it safe because any spill will be a loss of lots of DMT!

For those that want DMT as soon as possible, proceed immediately on to the condensing step after Step 4.

'''Step 5:''' For those more patient/lazy, plan for your next non-polar solvent use.

'''The most efficient/least effort extraction:'''

'''Non-polar pull #1''' - 6-8 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #2''' - 24 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #3''' - 48 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the above 3 pulls should contain 80-90% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all of the vinegar from pulls 1-3 and proceed to the condensing step.

'''Non-polar pull #4''' - 1 week after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #5''' - 2-3 weeks after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the 5 pulls together should contain at least 95% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all the vinegar from pulls 4-5 and do another condensing.

=== Condensing/Tincture Making: ===
 [[Image:Condensing.jpg]]

The process of condensing vinegar from light yellow liquid to a dense red tincture (all pulls from 500g MHRB)

'''This step is just to concentrate the vinegar containing the DMT down to a dense liquid "tincture" which can easily measure dosages by number of drops.'''

The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all of your DMT maintaining a consistent concentration. This tincture will keep indefinitely, I have used the same for 3+ years with no loss of potency.

Note 1: You could technically evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smokeable product. But that would result in a goo which is very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air. I honestly wouldn't recommend it that method though.

'''There are many steps to do in the condensing, so I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar saltings into one because it makes your house smell very vinegary for a few hours and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times. Moreover, combining tinctures changes their concentrations, requiring re-measuring.'''

'''Step 1:''' Filter the vinegar through a cotton ball in a funnel, then add a bit of water to wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball and pour it all in a pot.

'''Step 2:''' Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 40-50ml

'''Step 3:''' Remove the pot from heat, then use a dropper to carefully filter the liquid through a cotton ball then wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball again with water

'''Step 4:''' Lower the heat to medium low and watch it carefully until it is around starts to become red in color.

Note 2: You can estimate the resulting liquid based on the amount of MHRB used. The combined vinegar from 3 solvent pulls will result in roughly 1tsp/5ml for every 100g MHRB used at 10mg/drop. Generally it's much less liquid than you expect, especially if you're used to dosing with crystals.

'''Step 5:''' As the liquid becomes redder and redder, '''before the liquid is all gone,''' remove the pot from heat, tip the pot to the side and use a dropper to transfer your tincture to a dropper bottle.

'''It is a delicate balance of not removing all liquid, but getting a good concentration. It is best to aim for a little less liquid than a little more for 2 reasons:

You’ll need to rinse the pot with a few mL of water to get all the DMT off, adding additional liquid to the tincture

Adding more liquid is extremely simple, while removing liquid means doing the condensing again.'''

'''A tincture can vary hugely based on a few factors. The color is a simple general indicator of the concentration. Here are pictures of 3 different concentration levels:'''

[[Image:Captude.PNG]]

5mg per drop

[[Image:Capturfde.PNG]]

10mg per drop

[[Image:Captufdare.PNG]]

15mg per drop

More concentration can be done, but tinctures will get thicker and thicker until they are a thick goo (at room temperature) of pure DMT at around 50mg per drop.

For those wanting a more formal measurement of the concentration, proceed on to next optional section.

=== Measuring the tincture: ===
 Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.

Quantitative Concentration (numerical):

- Drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster.

- Put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) '''NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!'''

- Once the liquid has dissolved and it smells strongly, but not of vinegar, turn off the element and let it sit until cool enough to handle.

During the cooling, measure the weight of a razor blade using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.

- Remove the coaster from the element then scrape up the goo with a razor and measured using the scale.

- Subtract the weight of the razor blade then divide the number by 10 and that is the concentration per drop.

- Label the tincture with the concentration.

Note: Don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change!

Qualitative Concentration (subjective): This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca - Use one of the methods from the next section to evaporate 1 drop of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. - If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 2 drops, then 3, 4, etc. until adequate effects are achieved. - Concentration will then be *number* drops = Mild *number* drops = Strong *number* drops = Breakthrough *number* drops = Too Strong!

- Label the tincture with the recommended drops for a dosage.

=== Evaporation and Smoking: ===
 [[Image:Evaporatinsssg.png]]

Preparing a dose using the slow method and smoking DMT off copper using a home-made glass pipe and home-made glass bong

'''''After evaporating all the liquid from some of the tincture you are left with nearly pure DMT acetate goo. DMT acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and decomposes into freebase DMT with heat, so it is readily smokable (and doesn't taste like vinegar)'''''

The Slow and Patient Method

Simply put a number of drops of tincture for a single dose of DMT on your smoking material and let it dry for a few hours before smoking.

'''Smoking materials:'''

Neutral Herb (Mullien, Peppermint)

Maoi Containing Herb (Caapi, Passionflower)

Pre-torched Ceramic Fiber Ball

Pre-Charred Copper Kitchen Scrubber Ball

Silicon Carbide Ceramic Foam

Caution: Vinegar on copper may result in smoking small amounts of copper acetate which is not good for you. I cannot formally recommend this method for long term health without more information/research

The Hot and Quick Method

Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!

'''1: On Glass - Stove/Oven Method'''

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a flat glass coaster (I got my from the dollar store and then removed the rubber feet and glue from the bottom)

- Put the glass onto an electric stove element or into an oven at AS LOW AS POSSIBLE (do not use a gas stovetop)

- After the liquid evaporated and it doesn’t smell of vinegar it is ready. Usually about 1-2 minutes or 5 for fewer drops

- You can either:

a: Scrape up the liquid with a razor blade and transfer it to any smoking material

b: Let the glass cool to the touch then scrape it up with some herb/copper mesh

Note: hot DMT-acetate goo is very liquidy and hard to scrape up, the closer to room temperature it is, the thicker and easier it will be to scrape up.

'''2: With a Spoon - Lighter/Candle Method'''

Note:As much as this method might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a spoon then heat it from below with a lighter or candle flame. Be careful not to heat too quickly or it will spatter and DMT some will be lost.

- Continue to heat until the liquid has all gone and you’re left with a thin red liquidy goo that smells strongly but not of vinegar. A hot spoon will rapidly evaporate excess liquid without a flame below, so you can stop heating slightly before the process is finished.

- Carefully scrape up the goo with some herb/copper mesh. It’s usually best to let it cool for at least 30s before doing so to avoid burning yourself and allowing the goo to cool and thicken.

'''A quick warning about stability.'''

I would caution anyone against making lots of doses ahead of time with the slow or quick method because DMT-acetate seems somewhat unstable outside the tincture.

In an area with average temperature of 30ºC and regular indirect sun exposure it took DMT-acetate on stainless steel mesh 2 months to degrade to under 25% potency.

I have recently started tests on sun exposure vs no sun exposure.

=== Smoking: ===

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

Whether DMT crystals are melted on it, or DMT-acetate goo is put on them doesn't matter, you create a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50), most of them should work relatively interchangeably with DMT-acetates because the crystals are usually melted into a goo before smoking anyway.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 1 ===
You'll need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)
 Dropper Bottle
 Hot Plate/Stovetop
 Copper Kitchen Scrubber
 Turkey baster/pipette (solvent-safe!)

First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick tomato soup.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Add 150ml or more xylene or d-Limonene for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent, this is normal.
Stir the solvent around all the bark-mush. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes.

Gently pour off the solvent (might need to filter it) into a separate solvent-safe container.

Add 2 shot-glasses of vinegar into the solvent and agitate it a few times over 40-50 minutes

Use a turkey baster/pipette to separate the vinegar at the bottom to a separate container then repeat one more time with fresh vinegar

Put the solvent back on the bark-mush. I recommend pouring it off and doing the vinegar step at 1 day and 2 days, early pulls will yield less.

Combine all the vinegar pulls you have and carefully evaporate them until they start turning red. (you can optionally filter it)

Look at the condensing step for a color reference for a good concentration. It is most likely going to be much less liquid than you expect as it is very potent.

Transfer the liquid to a dropper bottle. Now you have a liquid that can be measured by number of drops and when evaporated (with or without heat) leaves a red goo which is readily smokable DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Scrub up the DMT with the ball and it can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

----

== Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest ==

=== About Naphtha ===
 Naphtha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though its toxicity is quite benign. '''Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.''' The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naphtha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.

Plus 2 things: 1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple of hours. 2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.

Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.

If you are in the US then VM+P Naphtha is your choice. If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices. If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it: 1. Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs) 2. Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.

(What your product will could like if you follow the tek) [[Image:Spicee.jpg]]

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:'''
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the naphtha and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority of problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

 Two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naphtha won't dissolve/degrade) one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best) one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation one freezer 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH) Some Lime Ca(OH)2 100ml or more Naphtha one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)

Useful tools a few Playing cards one or more razor blades/scrapers Some coffee filters 

=== Preparation: ===
[[Image:Materials2.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I do not recommend skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Naphtha'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Naphtha: ===
 [[Image:Napthaandgoo.JPG]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear naphtha solvent floating on top

'''Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naphtha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted.'''

Caution: Naphtha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do all of the following in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Get a large bowl that your bark-mush container/bowl can easily fit in. Place your container/bowl inside the bottom bowl then add boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the container/bowl or as close to that as possible. This will warm the bark mush indirectly and safely.

'''Step 2:''' Once the bark mush has been thoroughly warmed (it does not need to be hot, just nicely warm), add 1ml naphtha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naphtha or more for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 3:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Stir the bark-mush around to contact the solvent with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Danger: Warm naphtha produces lots of expanding fumes, so you MUST vent it frequently whenever it is closed and if you are using something that may shatter, put on gloves and safety glasses. Also, low quality containers are very likely to leak.

When the bark-naphtha mush has been warmed, but is not too hot to handle, seal the container and roll the container around in your hands to mix it. Regularly open the container to vent the pressure from the warm naphtha. Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

For either the bowl or the container, mix well several times over 40-60 minutes,(I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

Place the container/bowl in the hot water when you’re not mixing. Feel the outside of the bowl/container with the bark-mush from time to time and if it is no longer warm then you can replace/add more boiling water in the bowl underneath.

'''Step 4:''' Clean and dry your precipitation container

I find it easiest to work with a small glass cake-baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals. You can use any naphtha-safe container though, the crystals sometimes float around in plastic containers, but not always.

'''Step 5:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container, DRY THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Once your solvent is in you precipication container, proceed to the next step. If you see some clear liquid (water) under your naphtha, this is not good for the next step. Add the solvent back to the bark and immediately do the seperation again more carefully.

Note: Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Precipitation/Crystallization: ===
 [[Image:Spices.JPG]]

The first pull of naphtha from 500g of MHRB after being in the freezer overnight

'''This step works on the principal that naphtha can dissolve DMT-freebase quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naphtha with DMT-freebase dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.'''

'''Step 1:''' Just pop your precipitation container straight into the freezer. If the naphtha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry this is normal. The naphtha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow, especially on the first pull.

Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but although naphtha smells pretty strong, it doesn't linger too long like d-limonene or xylene.

'''Step 3:''' Keep the naphtha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming. If the naphtha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT-freebase molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.

'''Step 4:''' Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take your precipitation container out of the freezer and very gently pour off the naphtha back into your bark-mush.
Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors) place to lean your precipitation container against, the few drops of excess naphtha will drip off and all of the naphtha surrounding the crystals will evaporate in a couple of hours. Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, however usually just SLOWLY pouring the naphtha off works fine. You may use a coffee filter to catch them if you prefer.

'''Once your container no longer smells like naphtha the DMT-freebase is ready! Scrape them up with a razor or a small spoon and put in a small sealable container or baggie for storage. Keep it in a COOL DRY PLACE because DMT crystals will simply melt on a hot day'''

'''Additional Naphtha Pulls:'''

As I mentioned before, there are recommended timings for pulling with naphtha, but they are planned so you don't need to use extra solvent.
My recommended proceedure is as follows:

Warm and Pull either immediately or at 6-8 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 24 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 48 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''The above 3 pulls should total 80-90% of the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Warm and Pull at 1 week after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 2-3 after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''All 5 pulls together should contain 95% or more than the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Final Notes on Extracting with Tek 2:

- The solvent and the crystals will usually be more yellow with each pull. You won't notice the difference when smoking yellow DMT vs white DMT though. Also, your DMT crystals will often turn more yellow over long periods of time.

- There may be a small film underneath the crystals. I am pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT which are both readily smokable and psychoactive like the white DMT crystals.

- You can do a re-crystallization for larger crystals (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Recrystallization)

- If the first 2 pulls don't cloud or precipitate crystals after 8-12 hours then check something in the extraction did not work correctly. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Common_issues.2FTroubleshooting Common issues/Troubleshooting] because that should not happen.

- Technically you can make a tincture from Tek 2 by salting the naphtha with vinegar or dissolving the crystals in vinegar. This will produce a beautiful amber-colored liquid that can be measured in 2-3 drops rather than with a scale. This is my prefered method, but I know everyone loves pretty crystals, so this might take some of the magic out of Tek 2 for many people.

=== Smoking: ===

[[Image:IMG 20200703 121449.jpg]]

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So I can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

You just gently put a single dose of your DMT crystals on the ball then warm it with a ligher until they have melted and coated the metal and you've created a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50)explore and find your favorite one.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 2 ===
You need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 Naphtha
 Freezer

In a bowl, mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of MHRB is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick porridge.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Use a bowl underneath containing hot water to warm your bark mush.
Add about 100ml naphtha for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush.
Stir the naphtha around all the bark. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes, making sure the bark mush is kept warm the whole time.

Wipe the bottom of your bowl dry, then gently pour off the naphtha into a container which will go in the freezer (optionally through a coffee filter to catch sediment). I use an 8 inch pyrex cake pan.
If the naphtha is at a low level in the container you may want to wrap it in saran wrap to prevent evaporation.

In a couple of hours the naphtha should get cloudy. Slowly over 8-12 hours the DMT will precipitate out of the naphtha and form crystals on the container.
When the naphtha is no longer cloudy then gently pour the naphtha off the crystals and back into your bark mush (you may use a coffee filter if you prefer).
Put the container on its side to allow the naphtha to evaporate. Keep it out of the sunlight because the crystals will melt into a goo at about 40C or so.

When the crystals no longer smell of naphtha they are ready to smoke or whatever. Keep in a dime bag or something. STORE IN A COOL DRY PLACE TO AVOID MELTING!

Your first pull will only contain a portion of the total DMT, I recommend warming the naphtha, seperating and crystallizing again at 1 day, 2 days, 1 week and 2-3 weeks. Each pull will yeild less DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Put a dose of DMT crystals gently on the ball, then slowly heat it until they have all melted into it. At that point the ball can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

== Common issues/Troubleshooting ==

The teks are pretty comprehensive, so as long as you follow the steps you can expect success.

There are 5 likely causes of no DMT or very small yields of DMT. Each of them has to do with the quality of your core extraction materials:

'''1. Your Lime is not Calcium Hydroxide'''

This will mean that the PH of your basified bark mush is not low enough to convert the DMT-acetate to DMT freebase. Adding lime and water to the mix may fix this, but it depends on what your previous "lime" was.

'''2. Your Solvent was not the D-limonene/Xylene/Naphtha that was mentioned in the Teks.'''

This will result in either no DMT being dissolved in the solvent, the solvent mixing with the bark, no precipitation of DMT, no salting of DMT or maybe something else.

If your solvent evaporates on glass without leaving reside, completely dry out your lime-bark-solvent outside until it is crumbly (DO NOT USE HEAT!) and then proceeding to pull with proper solvent. Although it is likely to work, no guarentees.

If your solvent leaves a residue when evaporated on glass then it has additives in it and you risk significant health problems by doing anything further, just throw everything out and start again with fresh MHRB and proper solvent!

'''3. Your MHRB is not MHRB'''

This basically means you have no DMT to extract, so there is no solution to this issue other than getting yourself real MHRB

'''4: Your MHRB is not powdered'''

I have tried about 5x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and got a maximum of 5% the yield as powdered bark. If you have unused bark, you can try to powder it in a really strong blender, but most blenders can't powder MHRB. It might be better to just do a lye tek with your MHRB

'''5. Your vinegar is not 5% acetic acid'''

This will result in a successful, but 5x slower tek as it makes it a lime STB. You will have to wait much longer for the lime to work on the MHRB, but you just need patience and you'll get a full yield

 '''Good luck in all your life's endeavors! '''

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Limtek]]
[[Category:Acid/Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]

Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek

2020-09-02T12:37:42Z

Q21q21:

This tek is not Q21Q21's original idea but rather a culmination of many people's ideas. It is NOT perfect so if you can think of a better way to do ANY part of it then try it and PM me if it works! The tek is written in first person but they are Q21Q21's words.

(Q21Q21 being a fictional alien entity... with internet access)'''

 This tek was inspired by: '''Blueskine''' whose idea for freebasing acetates with heat changed my life! '''Noman''' whose tek on erowid inspired my first extraction '''69ron''' and his mescaline tek that taught me the power of lime '''amor_fati''' whose tek inspired me to try a vinegar step and made the tek over 10x faster '''SyZyGyPSy''' was the first person to report using limonene to extract spice '''Anyone whose post was read and forgot who posted it, you all helped.''' '''Lye''' which is so toxic and nasty.

_____________________
== Introduction ==

'''As a comprehensive guide there's lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.'''

'''If you would like to get right into the "What do I do?" then you can start by reading the Super-short Compressed Tek. (Then the full tek later)
'''
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_1 Tek 1 (Uses xylene/d-limonene)]
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_2 Tek 2 (Uses naphtha)]

== Background Information ==

=== The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark ===

While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis (abbreviated as MHRB)

[[image:MHRBthing.png]]

Mimosa Hostilis Plant, Whole Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark (MHRB), Shredded MHRB, Powdered MHRB

Mimosa Hostilis is a shrub that contains '''N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' and 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids (and some TINY amounts of NMT) in its root-bark . 

Discussions about suppliers of MHRB are no longer allowed on the DMT-Nexus, so it's best to do outside-Nexus searches for suppliers.

'''An extremely important note''' is that I have tried about 10x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and failed each time. Powdered MHRB is the only thing I'd recommend to buy as most blenders cannot powder MHRB properly.

=== Info about the 3 types of DMT contained in MHRB ===

Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information. '''Methods:''' [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Pharmahuasca Pharmahuasca], [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Guide_to_Mucosahuasca Mucosahuasca] or [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17873 Smoking]

''' White N-N-DMT'''
 
 [[Image:Crystals.JPG]] White DMT I extracted using Tek 2

'''White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' is pure DMT. MHRB usually contains about 1% of its weight in '''White DMT''', though yields from extractions of less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.

In the past the ultimate goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just '''White DMT''' in it. 

'''Red "Jungle" DMT'''

[[Image:SANY0069.JPG]] Thick dark red Jungle DMT extracted from by fully depleting the MHRB using naphtha, then pulling with xylene

"Jungle" DMT is also contained in the bark but cannot be extracted into crystals like '''White DMT'''

Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produces effects similar in duration and effects to '''White DMT'''. 
I strongly believe the yellow DMT which MANY people prefer to pure '''White DMT''' is in fact small amounts of Jungle DMT mixed with the '''White DMT.''' I think the cause of this is because Jungle DMT is ever so slightly soluble in naphtha.
An [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=156691 analysis] was done on this Jungle DMT and it is mostly (95%) DMT. Nonetheless I and many others still believe Jungle DMT produces noticeably different effects.

'''Yellow DMT-N-oxide'''

[[Image:SANY0050.JPG]] Crystallized DMT-N-oxide made with peroxide and white DMT

DMT-N-oxide was previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, but in fact Oxides seems unlikely to be present in the extracted DMT in significant amounts at all. (as I mentioned I believe that yellow is Jungle DMT)
 I and many others have smoked DMT which has been in ambient air for months/years without any significant loss of potency. 
Considering my tests (using the Oxides in the picture) suggest Oxides are about 1/3 or less potent than '''white DMT''' or jungle DMT when smoked (waiting on replication of this test to be positive though) then I conclude Oxides are insignificant and need not be worried about.

'''Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product'''

[[Image:Capture.PNG]]

Jimjam DMT I extracted using Tek 1 with d-limonene

If all the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum product called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during Tek 1.

Jimjam is considered by many to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though yields from extractions of more than 2% are not unheard of.

DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like Jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries - make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.

=== About the 2 teks ===
 [[Image:Suolvents.png]] 

Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naphtha they will be referred to as "the solvent"

In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used. '''Tek 2''' uses '''naphtha''' (lighter fluid) while
Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner but also used to dissolve HIPS 3D-printing supports)

(Vegetable oil can also apparently be used for Tek 1, you can search the Nexus for the many long threads talking about using it as a solvent)

'''Naphtha''' needs to be heated to dissolve or else it won't dissolve anything but its unique solubility properties allow for '''White DMT''' to be crystallized out when it is cooled in a freezer.
'''Tek 2''' thus involves a heating-step and a freezer-step that Tek 1 does not have. However, naphtha does not dissolve Jungle DMT very well so the extracted product will be almost entirely '''white DMT''' and leave the Jungle DMT in the MHRB.

d-limonene and xylene dissolve both '''white DMT''' and Jungle DMT at room temperate so Tek 1 doesn't need a heating step. Because of that it will yield full-spectrum product Jimjam DMT but since it is soluble, even when the solvent is cold, freezer precipitation doesn't work, so one of many different methods can be used to isolate the Jimjam DMT from the solvent.

Useful to know: If d-limonene is used, the tek will be

''<nowiki>*100% food-safe*</nowiki>'' 

Note:d-limonene still smells very strong and lingers in your house

'''For a first-timer [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Tek_2:_The_Fluffy_White_Funfest Tek 2] may be better advised than Tek 1 because it requires fewer steps and is well-suited for very small test batches like 30g-50g MHRB. I recommend Tek 1 for larger batches.

That being said, both teks are quite simple - comparable to baking a cake.'''

=== A little info on Lime ===
 [[Image:Lime.png]] 

'''The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is a replacement for lye which is very caustic and toxic.'''

lime is known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.

Until recently using caustic and toxic '''Sodium Hydroxide''' (lye, drain cleaner) was the only option as the base when extracting DMT. Lye is very potentially dangerous

These Teks instead use '''Lime'''. '''Lime''' is a powerful base that is actually food safe. It is powerfully alkaline so take care not to get it in your eyes or inhale it and wash your hands after touching it.

There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities. 

'''Here are some tips:'' Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums. So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores.

Local availability varies all the way from none to lots depending on country/location. If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.

If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally. Look on the internet for something and confirm that it is pure Ca(OH)2 before purchasing it from a reputable vendor.

If I haven't made this clear enough, let me end this section with a final clarification:
You MUST use proper lime for this tek to work! Make sure you do, good luck!

== Tek 1: The Jimjam party ==

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:''' 
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

Extraction Specific: 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH) 30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2) 125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark) Some Sealable and shakeable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel one Turkey baster or pipette(HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one Stove or Kettle one Pot or Pan

Useful tools one or more Funnels one Rice cooker one Baking pan/large surface area container one or more razor blades/scrapers one or two high quality mason jars 

Tincture tools one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml) one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses one spoon one lighter/candle/heat source

=== Preparation: ===
 [[Image:Materials.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I do not recommend skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent: ===
 [[Image:Dlime.jpg]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear d-limonene solvent floating on top

Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted '''''

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g) 

'''Step 2:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:''' mix with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:''' you can just roll the container around in your hands to mix it.

Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

Mix it well several times over 40-60 minutes. (I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

'''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY.'''

'''Step 3:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Note:Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Alternative Next-Steps ===
'''Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method.
There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB (Step 4)] by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead.

'''↓My preferred method is below↓'''

=== Salting with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:IMG_20200528_061727.jpg]]

Cloudy d-limonene floating on top of yellowish vinegar

'''''This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.'''''

Note 1: Xylene and D-Limonene are very leaky, most containers will eventually start leaking during the salting process. I recommend high quality mason jars that you’ve tested the lids to make sure the solvent doesn’t react with.

'''Step 1:''' Pour some vinegar into the sealable container with the solvent. About 2 shot glasses full.

'''Step 2:''' Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefer to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. Emulsions in this step always resolve pretty easily. No need to be careful.

Agitate the container 3-4 times over 40-60 minutes. The solvent will quickly start to get cloudy and the vinegar will gradually get more yellow.

You don’t have to wait until the solvent gets clear, it doesn’t seem to relate to the process being finished.

'''Step 3:''' Use a turkey baster/pipette to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container. As with the other liquid separations, 90% is okay.

Note 2: Try to get as little of the solvent during the separation as possible. This solvent will leave plant oils and other junk in your end product. That being said, a 1mm layer of solvent atop your vinegar is common using this method.

'''Step 4:'''
Repeat steps 1-3 once in exactly the same way, combine the separated vinegar pulls in a sealable container. Keep it safe because any spill will be a loss of lots of DMT!

For those that want DMT as soon as possible, proceed immediately on to the condensing step after Step 4.

'''Step 5:''' For those more patient/lazy, plan for your next non-polar solvent use.

'''The most efficient/least effort extraction:'''

'''Non-polar pull #1''' - 6-8 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #2''' - 24 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #3''' - 48 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the above 3 pulls should contain 80-90% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all of the vinegar from pulls 1-3 and proceed to the condensing step.

'''Non-polar pull #4''' - 1 week after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #5''' - 2-3 weeks after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the 5 pulls together should contain at least 95% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all the vinegar from pulls 4-5 and do another condensing.

=== Condensing/Tincture Making: ===
 [[Image:Condensing.jpg]]

The process of condensing vinegar from light yellow liquid to a dense red tincture (all pulls from 500g MHRB)

'''This step is just to concentrate the vinegar containing the DMT down to a dense liquid "tincture" which can easily measure dosages by number of drops.'''

The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all of your DMT maintaining a consistent concentration. This tincture will keep indefinitely, I have used the same for 3+ years with no loss of potency.

Note 1: You could technically evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smokeable product. But that would result in a goo which is very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air. I honestly wouldn't recommend it that method though.

'''There are many steps to do in the condensing, so I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar saltings into one because it makes your house smell very vinegary for a few hours and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times. Moreover, combining tinctures changes their concentrations, requiring re-measuring.'''

'''Step 1:''' Filter the vinegar through a cotton ball in a funnel, then add a bit of water to wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball and pour it all in a pot.

'''Step 2:''' Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 40-50ml

'''Step 3:''' Remove the pot from heat, then use a dropper to carefully filter the liquid through a cotton ball then wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball again with water

'''Step 4:''' Lower the heat to medium low and watch it carefully until it is around starts to become red in color.

Note 2: You can estimate the resulting liquid based on the amount of MHRB used. The combined vinegar from 3 solvent pulls will result in roughly 1tsp/5ml for every 100g MHRB used at 10mg/drop. Generally it's much less liquid than you expect, especially if you're used to dosing with crystals.

'''Step 5:''' As the liquid becomes redder and redder, '''before the liquid is all gone,''' remove the pot from heat, tip the pot to the side and use a dropper to transfer your tincture to a dropper bottle.

'''It is a delicate balance of not removing all liquid, but getting a good concentration. It is best to aim for a little less liquid than a little more for 2 reasons:

You’ll need to rinse the pot with a few mL of water to get all the DMT off, adding additional liquid to the tincture

Adding more liquid is extremely simple, while removing liquid means doing the condensing again.'''

'''A tincture can vary hugely based on a few factors. The color is a simple general indicator of the concentration. Here are pictures of 3 different concentration levels:'''

[[Image:Captude.PNG]]

5mg per drop

[[Image:Capturfde.PNG]]

10mg per drop

[[Image:Captufdare.PNG]]

15mg per drop

More concentration can be done, but tinctures will get thicker and thicker until they are a thick goo (at room temperature) of pure DMT at around 50mg per drop.

For those wanting a more formal measurement of the concentration, proceed on to next optional section.

=== Measuring the tincture: ===
 Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.

Quantitative Concentration (numerical):

- Drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster.

- Put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) '''NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!'''

- Once the liquid has dissolved and it smells strongly, but not of vinegar, turn off the element and let it sit until cool enough to handle.

During the cooling, measure the weight of a razor blade using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.

- Remove the coaster from the element then scrape up the goo with a razor and measured using the scale.

- Subtract the weight of the razor blade then divide the number by 10 and that is the concentration per drop.

- Label the tincture with the concentration.

Note: Don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change!

Qualitative Concentration (subjective): This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca - Use one of the methods from the next section to evaporate 1 drop of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. - If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 2 drops, then 3, 4, etc. until adequate effects are achieved. - Concentration will then be *number* drops = Mild *number* drops = Strong *number* drops = Breakthrough *number* drops = Too Strong!

- Label the tincture with the recommended drops for a dosage.

=== Evaporation and Smoking: ===
 [[Image:Evaporatinsssg.png]]

Preparing a dose using the slow method and smoking DMT off copper using a home-made glass pipe and home-made glass bong

'''''After evaporating all the liquid from some of the tincture you are left with nearly pure DMT acetate goo. DMT acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and decomposes into freebase DMT with heat, so it is readily smokable (and doesn't taste like vinegar)'''''

The Slow and Patient Method

Simply put a number of drops of tincture for a single dose of DMT on your smoking material and let it dry for a few hours before smoking.

'''Smoking materials:'''

Neutral Herb (Mullien, Peppermint)

Maoi Containing Herb (Caapi, Passionflower)

Pre-torched Ceramic Fiber Ball

Pre-Charred Copper Kitchen Scrubber Ball

Silicon Carbide Ceramic Foam

Caution: Vinegar on copper may result in smoking small amounts of copper acetate which is not good for you. I cannot formally recommend this method for long term health without more information/research

The Hot and Quick Method

Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!

'''1: On Glass - Stove/Oven Method'''

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a flat glass coaster (I got my from the dollar store and then removed the rubber feet and glue from the bottom)

- Put the glass onto an electric stove element or into an oven at AS LOW AS POSSIBLE (do not use a gas stovetop)

- After the liquid evaporated and it doesn’t smell of vinegar it is ready. Usually about 1-2 minutes or 5 for fewer drops

- You can either:

a: Scrape up the liquid with a razor blade and transfer it to any smoking material

b: Let the glass cool to the touch then scrape it up with some herb/copper mesh

Note: hot DMT-acetate goo is very liquidy and hard to scrape up, the closer to room temperature it is, the thicker and easier it will be to scrape up.

'''2: With a Spoon - Lighter/Candle Method'''

Note:As much as this method might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a spoon then heat it from below with a lighter or candle flame. Be careful not to heat too quickly or it will spatter and DMT some will be lost.

- Continue to heat until the liquid has all gone and you’re left with a thin red liquidy goo that smells strongly but not of vinegar. A hot spoon will rapidly evaporate excess liquid without a flame below, so you can stop heating slightly before the process is finished.

- Carefully scrape up the goo with some herb/copper mesh. It’s usually best to let it cool for at least 30s before doing so to avoid burning yourself and allowing the goo to cool and thicken.

'''A quick warning about stability.'''

You could make lots of doses ahead of time with the slow or quick method, but DMT-acetate seems somewhat unstable outside the tincture.

In an area with average temperature of 30ºC and regular indirect sun exposure it took DMT-acetate on stainless steel mesh 2 months to degrade to under 25% potency.

I have recently started tests on sun exposure vs no sun exposure.

=== Smoking: ===

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

Whether DMT crystals are melted on it, or DMT-acetate goo is put on them doesn't matter, you create a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50), most of them should work relatively interchangeably with DMT-acetates because the crystals are usually melted into a goo before smoking anyway.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 1 ===
You'll need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)
 Dropper Bottle
 Hot Plate/Stovetop
 Copper Kitchen Scrubber
 Turkey baster/pipette (solvent-safe!)

First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick tomato soup.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Add 150ml or more xylene or d-Limonene for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent, this is normal.
Stir the solvent around all the bark-mush. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes.

Gently pour off the solvent (might need to filter it) into a separate solvent-safe container.

Add 2 shot-glasses of vinegar into the solvent and agitate it a few times over 40-50 minutes

Use a turkey baster/pipette to separate the vinegar at the bottom to a separate container then repeat one more time with fresh vinegar

Put the solvent back on the bark-mush. I recommend pouring it off and doing the vinegar step at 1 day and 2 days, early pulls will yield less.

Combine all the vinegar pulls you have and carefully evaporate them until they start turning red. (you can optionally filter it)

Look at the condensing step for a color reference for a good concentration. It is most likely going to be much less liquid than you expect as it is very potent.

Transfer the liquid to a dropper bottle. Now you have a liquid that can be measured by number of drops and when evaporated (with or without heat) leaves a red goo which is readily smokable DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Scrub up the DMT with the ball and it can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

----

== Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest ==

=== About Naphtha ===
 Naphtha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though its toxicity is quite benign. '''Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.''' The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naphtha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.

Plus 2 things: 1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple of hours. 2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.

Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.

If you are in the US then VM+P Naphtha is your choice. If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices. If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it: 1. Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs) 2. Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.

(What your product will could like if you follow the tek) [[Image:Spicee.jpg]]

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:'''
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the naphtha and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority of problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

 Two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naphtha won't dissolve/degrade) one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best) one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation one freezer 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH) Some Lime Ca(OH)2 100ml or more Naphtha one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)

Useful tools a few Playing cards one or more razor blades/scrapers Some coffee filters 

=== Preparation: ===
[[Image:Materials2.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I do not recommend skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Naphtha'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Naphtha: ===
 [[Image:Napthaandgoo.JPG]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear naphtha solvent floating on top

'''Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naphtha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted.'''

Caution: Naphtha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do all of the following in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Get a large bowl that your bark-mush container/bowl can easily fit in. Place your container/bowl inside the bottom bowl then add boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the container/bowl or as close to that as possible. This will warm the bark mush indirectly and safely.

'''Step 2:''' Once the bark mush has been thoroughly warmed (it does not need to be hot, just nicely warm), add 1ml naphtha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naphtha or more for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 3:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Stir the bark-mush around to contact the solvent with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Danger: Warm naphtha produces lots of expanding fumes, so you MUST vent it frequently whenever it is closed and if you are using something that may shatter, put on gloves and safety glasses. Also, low quality containers are very likely to leak.

When the bark-naphtha mush has been warmed, but is not too hot to handle, seal the container and roll the container around in your hands to mix it. Regularly open the container to vent the pressure from the warm naphtha. Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

For either the bowl or the container, mix well several times over 40-60 minutes,(I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

Place the container/bowl in the hot water when you’re not mixing. Feel the outside of the bowl/container with the bark-mush from time to time and if it is no longer warm then you can replace/add more boiling water in the bowl underneath.

'''Step 4:''' Clean and dry your precipitation container

I find it easiest to work with a small glass cake-baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals. You can use any naphtha-safe container though, the crystals sometimes float around in plastic containers, but not always.

'''Step 5:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container, DRY THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Once your solvent is in you precipication container, proceed to the next step. If you see some clear liquid (water) under your naphtha, this is not good for the next step. Add the solvent back to the bark and immediately do the seperation again more carefully.

Note: Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Precipitation/Crystallization: ===
 [[Image:Spices.JPG]]

The first pull of naphtha from 500g of MHRB after being in the freezer overnight

'''This step works on the principal that naphtha can dissolve DMT-freebase quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naphtha with DMT-freebase dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.'''

'''Step 1:''' Just pop your precipitation container straight into the freezer. If the naphtha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry this is normal. The naphtha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow, especially on the first pull.

Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but although naphtha smells pretty strong, it doesn't linger too long like d-limonene or xylene.

'''Step 3:''' Keep the naphtha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming. If the naphtha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT-freebase molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.

'''Step 4:''' Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take your precipitation container out of the freezer and very gently pour off the naphtha back into your bark-mush.
Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors) place to lean your precipitation container against, the few drops of excess naphtha will drip off and all of the naphtha surrounding the crystals will evaporate in a couple of hours. Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, however usually just SLOWLY pouring the naphtha off works fine. You may use a coffee filter to catch them if you prefer.

'''Once your container no longer smells like naphtha the DMT-freebase is ready! Scrape them up with a razor or a small spoon and put in a small sealable container or baggie for storage. Keep it in a COOL DRY PLACE because DMT crystals will simply melt on a hot day'''

'''Additional Naphtha Pulls:'''

As I mentioned before, there are recommended timings for pulling with naphtha, but they are planned so you don't need to use extra solvent.
My recommended proceedure is as follows:

Warm and Pull either immediately or at 6-8 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 24 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 48 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''The above 3 pulls should total 80-90% of the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Warm and Pull at 1 week after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 2-3 after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''All 5 pulls together should contain 95% or more than the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Final Notes on Extracting with Tek 2:

- The solvent and the crystals will usually be more yellow with each pull. You won't notice the difference when smoking yellow DMT vs white DMT though. Also, your DMT crystals will often turn more yellow over long periods of time.

- There may be a small film underneath the crystals. I am pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT which are both readily smokable and psychoactive like the white DMT crystals.

- You can do a re-crystallization for larger crystals (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Recrystallization)

- If the first 2 pulls don't cloud or precipitate crystals after 8-12 hours then check something in the extraction did not work correctly. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Common_issues.2FTroubleshooting Common issues/Troubleshooting] because that should not happen.

- Technically you can make a tincture from Tek 2 by salting the naphtha with vinegar or dissolving the crystals in vinegar. This will produce a beautiful amber-colored liquid that can be measured in 2-3 drops rather than with a scale. This is my prefered method, but I know everyone loves pretty crystals, so this might take some of the magic out of Tek 2 for many people.

=== Smoking: ===

[[Image:IMG 20200703 121449.jpg]]

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So I can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

You just gently put a single dose of your DMT crystals on the ball then warm it with a ligher until they have melted and coated the metal and you've created a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50)explore and find your favorite one.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 2 ===
You need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 Naphtha
 Freezer

In a bowl, mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of MHRB is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick porridge.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Use a bowl underneath containing hot water to warm your bark mush.
Add about 100ml naphtha for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush.
Stir the naphtha around all the bark. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes, making sure the bark mush is kept warm the whole time.

Wipe the bottom of your bowl dry, then gently pour off the naphtha into a container which will go in the freezer (optionally through a coffee filter to catch sediment). I use an 8 inch pyrex cake pan.
If the naphtha is at a low level in the container you may want to wrap it in saran wrap to prevent evaporation.

In a couple of hours the naphtha should get cloudy. Slowly over 8-12 hours the DMT will precipitate out of the naphtha and form crystals on the container.
When the naphtha is no longer cloudy then gently pour the naphtha off the crystals and back into your bark mush (you may use a coffee filter if you prefer).
Put the container on its side to allow the naphtha to evaporate. Keep it out of the sunlight because the crystals will melt into a goo at about 40C or so.

When the crystals no longer smell of naphtha they are ready to smoke or whatever. Keep in a dime bag or something. STORE IN A COOL DRY PLACE TO AVOID MELTING!

Your first pull will only contain a portion of the total DMT, I recommend warming the naphtha, seperating and crystallizing again at 1 day, 2 days, 1 week and 2-3 weeks. Each pull will yeild less DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Put a dose of DMT crystals gently on the ball, then slowly heat it until they have all melted into it. At that point the ball can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

== Common issues/Troubleshooting ==

The teks are pretty comprehensive, so as long as you follow the steps you can expect success.

There are 5 likely causes of no DMT or very small yields of DMT. Each of them has to do with the quality of your core extraction materials:

'''1. Your Lime is not Calcium Hydroxide'''

This will mean that the PH of your basified bark mush is not low enough to convert the DMT-acetate to DMT freebase. Adding lime and water to the mix may fix this, but it depends on what your previous "lime" was.

'''2. Your Solvent was not the D-limonene/Xylene/Naphtha that was mentioned in the Teks.'''

This will result in either no DMT being dissolved in the solvent, the solvent mixing with the bark, no precipitation of DMT, no salting of DMT or maybe something else.

If your solvent evaporates on glass without leaving reside, completely dry out your lime-bark-solvent outside until it is crumbly (DO NOT USE HEAT!) and then proceeding to pull with proper solvent. Although it is likely to work, no guarentees.

If your solvent leaves a residue when evaporated on glass then it has additives in it and you risk significant health problems by doing anything further, just throw everything out and start again with fresh MHRB and proper solvent!

'''3. Your MHRB is not MHRB'''

This basically means you have no DMT to extract, so there is no solution to this issue other than getting yourself real MHRB

'''4: Your MHRB is not powdered'''

I have tried about 5x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and got a maximum of 5% the yield as powdered bark. If you have unused bark, you can try to powder it in a really strong blender, but most blenders can't powder MHRB. It might be better to just do a lye tek with your MHRB

'''5. Your vinegar is not 5% acetic acid'''

This will result in a successful, but 5x slower tek as it makes it a lime STB. You will have to wait much longer for the lime to work on the MHRB, but you just need patience and you'll get a full yield

 '''Good luck in all your life's endeavors! '''

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Limtek]]
[[Category:Acid/Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]

Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek

2020-08-12T10:52:11Z

Q21q21:

This tek is not Q21Q21's original idea but rather a culmination of many people's ideas. It is NOT perfect so if you can think of a better way to do ANY part of it then try it and PM me if it works! The tek is written in first person but they are Q21Q21's words.

(Q21Q21 being a fictional alien entity... with internet access)'''

 This tek was inspired by: '''Blueskine''' whose idea for freebasing acetates with heat changed my life! '''Noman''' whose tek on erowid inspired my first extraction '''69ron''' and his mescaline tek that taught me the power of lime '''amor_fati''' whose tek inspired me to try a vinegar step and made the tek over 10x faster '''SyZyGyPSy''' was the first person to report using limonene to extract spice '''Anyone whose post was read and forgot who posted it, you all helped.''' '''Lye''' which is so toxic and nasty.

_____________________
== Introduction ==

'''As a comprehensive guide there's lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.'''

'''If you would like to get right into the "What do I do?" then you can start by reading the Super-short Compressed Tek. (Then the full tek later)
'''
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_1 Tek 1 (Uses xylene/d-limonene)]
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_2 Tek 2 (Uses naphtha)]

== Background Information ==

=== The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark ===

While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis (abbreviated as MHRB)

[[image:MHRBthing.png]]

Mimosa Hostilis Plant, Whole Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark (MHRB), Shredded MHRB, Powdered MHRB

Mimosa Hostilis is a shrub that contains '''N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' and 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids (and some TINY amounts of NMT) in its root-bark . 

Discussions about suppliers of MHRB are no longer allowed on the DMT-Nexus, so it's best to do outside-Nexus searches for suppliers.

'''An extremely important note''' is that I have tried about 10x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and failed each time. Powdered MHRB is the only thing I'd recommend to buy as most blenders cannot powder MHRB properly.

=== Info about the 3 types of DMT contained in MHRB ===

Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information. '''Methods:''' [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Pharmahuasca Pharmahuasca], [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Guide_to_Mucosahuasca Mucosahuasca] or [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17873 Smoking]

''' White N-N-DMT'''
 
 [[Image:Crystals.JPG]] White DMT I extracted using Tek 2

'''White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' is pure DMT. MHRB usually contains about 1% of its weight in '''White DMT''', though yields from extractions of less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.

In the past the ultimate goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just '''White DMT''' in it. 

'''Red "Jungle" DMT'''

[[Image:SANY0069.JPG]] Thick dark red Jungle DMT extracted from by fully depleting the MHRB using naphtha, then pulling with xylene

"Jungle" DMT is also contained in the bark but cannot be extracted into crystals like '''White DMT'''

Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produces effects similar in duration and effects to '''White DMT'''. 
I strongly believe the yellow DMT which MANY people prefer to pure '''White DMT''' is in fact small amounts of Jungle DMT mixed with the '''White DMT.''' I think the cause of this is because Jungle DMT is ever so slightly soluble in naphtha.
An [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=156691 analysis] was done on this Jungle DMT and it is mostly (95%) DMT. Nonetheless I and many others still believe Jungle DMT produces noticeably different effects.

'''Yellow DMT-N-oxide'''

[[Image:SANY0050.JPG]] Crystallized DMT-N-oxide made with peroxide and white DMT

DMT-N-oxide was previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, but in fact Oxides seems unlikely to be present in the extracted DMT in significant amounts at all. (as I mentioned I believe that yellow is Jungle DMT)
 I and many others have smoked DMT which has been in ambient air for months/years without any significant loss of potency. 
Considering my tests (using the Oxides in the picture) suggest Oxides are about 1/3 or less potent than '''white DMT''' or jungle DMT when smoked (waiting on replication of this test to be positive though) then I conclude Oxides are insignificant and need not be worried about.

'''Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product'''

[[Image:Capture.PNG]]

Jimjam DMT I extracted using Tek 1 with d-limonene

If all the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum product called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during Tek 1.

Jimjam is considered by many to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though yields from extractions of more than 2% are not unheard of.

DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like Jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries - make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.

=== About the 2 teks ===
 [[Image:Suolvents.png]] 

Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naphtha they will be referred to as "the solvent"

In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used. '''Tek 2''' uses '''naphtha''' (lighter fluid) while
Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner but also used to dissolve HIPS 3D-printing supports)

(Vegetable oil can also apparently be used for Tek 1, you can search the Nexus for the many long threads talking about using it as a solvent)

'''Naphtha''' needs to be heated to dissolve or else it won't dissolve anything but its unique solubility properties allow for '''White DMT''' to be crystallized out when it is cooled in a freezer.
'''Tek 2''' thus involves a heating-step and a freezer-step that Tek 1 does not have. However, naphtha does not dissolve Jungle DMT very well so the extracted product will be almost entirely '''white DMT''' and leave the Jungle DMT in the MHRB.

d-limonene and xylene dissolve both '''white DMT''' and Jungle DMT at room temperate so Tek 1 doesn't need a heating step. Because of that it will yield full-spectrum product Jimjam DMT but since it is soluble, even when the solvent is cold, freezer precipitation doesn't work, so one of many different methods can be used to isolate the Jimjam DMT from the solvent.

Useful to know: If d-limonene is used, the tek will be

''<nowiki>*100% food-safe*</nowiki>'' 

Note:d-limonene still smells very strong and lingers in your house

'''For a first-timer [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Tek_2:_The_Fluffy_White_Funfest Tek 2] may be better advised than Tek 1 because it requires fewer steps and is well-suited for very small test batches like 30g-50g MHRB. I recommend Tek 1 for larger batches.

That being said, both teks are quite simple - comparable to baking a cake.'''

=== A little info on Lime ===
 [[Image:Lime.png]] 

'''The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is a replacement for lye which is very caustic and toxic.'''

lime is known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.

Until recently using caustic and toxic '''Sodium Hydroxide''' (lye, drain cleaner) was the only option as the base when extracting DMT. Lye is very potentially dangerous

These Teks instead use '''Lime'''. '''Lime''' is a powerful base that is actually food safe. It is powerfully alkaline so take care not to get it in your eyes or inhale it and wash your hands after touching it.

There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities. 

'''Here are some tips:'' Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums. So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores.

Local availability varies all the way from none to lots depending on country/location. If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.

If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally. Look on the internet for something and confirm that it is pure Ca(OH)2 before purchasing it from a reputable vendor.

If I haven't made this clear enough, let me end this section with a final clarification:
You MUST use proper lime for this tek to work! Make sure you do, good luck!

== Tek 1: The Jimjam party ==

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:''' 
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

Extraction Specific: 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH) 30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2) 125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark) Some Sealable and shakeable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel one Turkey baster or pipette(HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one Stove or Kettle one Pot or Pan

Useful tools one or more Funnels one Rice cooker one Baking pan/large surface area container one or more razor blades/scrapers one or two high quality mason jars 

Tincture tools one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml) one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses one spoon one lighter/candle/heat source

=== Preparation: ===
 [[Image:Materials.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I do not recommend skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent: ===
 [[Image:Dlime.jpg]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear d-limonene solvent floating on top

Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted '''''

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g) 

'''Step 2:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:''' mix with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:''' you can just roll the container around in your hands to mix it.

Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

Mix it well several times over 40-60 minutes. (I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

'''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY.'''

'''Step 3:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Note:Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Alternative Next-Steps ===
'''Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method.
There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB (Step 4)] by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead.

'''↓My preferred method is below↓'''

=== Salting with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:IMG_20200528_061727.jpg]]

Cloudy d-limonene floating on top of yellowish vinegar

'''''This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.'''''

Note 1: Xylene and D-Limonene are very leaky, most containers will eventually start leaking during the salting process. I recommend high quality mason jars that you’ve tested the lids to make sure the solvent doesn’t react with.

'''Step 1:''' Pour some vinegar into the sealable container with the solvent. About 2 shot glasses full.

'''Step 2:''' Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefer to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. Emulsions in this step always resolve pretty easily. No need to be careful.

Agitate the container 3-4 times over 40-60 minutes. The solvent will quickly start to get cloudy and the vinegar will gradually get more yellow.

You don’t have to wait until the solvent gets clear, it doesn’t seem to relate to the process being finished.

'''Step 3:''' Use a turkey baster/pipette to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container. As with the other liquid separations, 90% is okay.

Note 2: Try to get as little of the solvent during the separation as possible. This solvent will leave plant oils and other junk in your end product. That being said, a 1mm layer of solvent atop your vinegar is common using this method.

'''Step 4:'''
Repeat steps 1-3 once in exactly the same way, combine the separated vinegar pulls in a sealable container. Keep it safe because any spill will be a loss of lots of DMT!

For those that want DMT as soon as possible, proceed immediately on to the condensing step after Step 4.

'''Step 5:''' For those more patient/lazy, plan for your next non-polar solvent use.

'''The most efficient/least effort extraction:'''

'''Non-polar pull #1''' - 6-8 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #2''' - 24 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #3''' - 48 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the above 3 pulls should contain 80-90% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all of the vinegar from pulls 1-3 and proceed to the condensing step.

'''Non-polar pull #4''' - 1 week after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #5''' - 2-3 weeks after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the 5 pulls together should contain at least 95% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all the vinegar from pulls 4-5 and do another condensing.

=== Condensing/Tincture Making: ===
 [[Image:Condensing.jpg]]

The process of condensing vinegar from light yellow liquid to a dense red tincture (all pulls from 500g MHRB)

'''This step is just to concentrate the vinegar containing the DMT down to a dense liquid "tincture" which can easily measure dosages by number of drops.'''

The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all of your DMT maintaining a consistent concentration. This tincture will keep indefinitely, I have used the same for 3+ years with no loss of potency.

Note 1: You could technically evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smokeable product. But that would result in a goo which is very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air. I honestly wouldn't recommend it that method though.

'''There are many steps to do in the condensing, so I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar saltings into one because it makes your house smell very vinegary for a few hours and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times. Moreover, combining tinctures changes their concentrations, requiring re-measuring.'''

'''Step 1:''' Filter the vinegar through a cotton ball in a funnel, then add a bit of water to wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball and pour it all in a pot.

'''Step 2:''' Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 40-50ml

'''Step 3:''' Remove the pot from heat, then use a dropper to carefully filter the liquid through a cotton ball then wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball again with water

'''Step 4:''' Lower the heat to medium low and watch it carefully until it is around starts to become red in color.

Note 2: You can estimate the resulting liquid based on the amount of MHRB used. The combined vinegar from 3 solvent pulls will result in roughly 1tsp/5ml for every 100g MHRB used at 10mg/drop. Generally it's much less liquid than you expect, especially if you're used to dosing with crystals.

'''Step 5:''' As the liquid becomes redder and redder, '''before the liquid is all gone,''' remove the pot from heat, tip the pot to the side and use a dropper to transfer your tincture to a dropper bottle.

'''It is a delicate balance of not removing all liquid, but getting a good concentration. It is best to aim for a little less liquid than a little more for 2 reasons:

You’ll need to rinse the pot with a few mL of water to get all the DMT off, adding additional liquid to the tincture

Adding more liquid is extremely simple, while removing liquid means doing the condensing again.'''

'''A tincture can vary hugely based on a few factors. The color is a simple general indicator of the concentration. Here are pictures of 3 different concentration levels:'''

[[Image:Captude.PNG]]

5mg per drop

[[Image:Capturfde.PNG]]

10mg per drop

[[Image:Captufdare.PNG]]

15mg per drop

More concentration can be done, but tinctures will get thicker and thicker until they are a thick goo (at room temperature) of pure DMT at around 50mg per drop.

For those wanting a more formal measurement of the concentration, proceed on to next optional section.

=== Measuring the tincture: ===
 Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.

Quantitative Concentration (numerical):

- Drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster.

- Put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) '''NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!'''

- Once the liquid has dissolved and it smells strongly, but not of vinegar, turn off the element and let it sit until cool enough to handle.

During the cooling, measure the weight of a razor blade using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.

- Remove the coaster from the element then scrape up the goo with a razor and measured using the scale.

- Subtract the weight of the razor blade then divide the number by 10 and that is the concentration per drop.

- Label the tincture with the concentration.

Note: Don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change!

Qualitative Concentration (subjective): This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca - Use one of the methods from the next section to evaporate 1 drop of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. - If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 2 drops, then 3, 4, etc. until adequate effects are achieved. - Concentration will then be *number* drops = Mild *number* drops = Strong *number* drops = Breakthrough *number* drops = Too Strong!

- Label the tincture with the recommended drops for a dosage.

=== Evaporation and Smoking: ===
 [[Image:Evaporatinsssg.png]]

Preparing a dose using the slow method and smoking DMT off copper using a home-made glass pipe and home-made glass bong

'''''After evaporating all the liquid from some of the tincture you are left with nearly pure DMT acetate goo. DMT acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and decomposes into freebase DMT with heat, so it is readily smokable (and doesn't taste like vinegar)'''''

The Slow and Patient Method

Simply put a number of drops of tincture for a single dose of DMT on your smoking material and let it dry for a few hours before smoking.

'''Smoking materials:'''

Neutral Herb (Mullien, Peppermint)

Maoi Containing Herb (Caapi, Passionflower)

Pre-torched Ceramic Fiber Ball

Pre-Charred Copper Kitchen Scrubber Ball

Silicon Carbide Ceramic Foam

Caution: Vinegar on copper may result in smoking small amounts of copper acetate which is not good for you. I cannot formally recommend this method for long term health without more information/research

The Hot and Quick Method

Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!

'''1: On Glass - Stove/Oven Method'''

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a flat glass coaster (I got my from the dollar store and then removed the rubber feet and glue from the bottom)

- Put the glass onto an electric stove element or into an oven at AS LOW AS POSSIBLE (do not use a gas stovetop)

- After the liquid evaporated and it doesn’t smell of vinegar it is ready. Usually about 1-2 minutes or 5 for fewer drops

- You can either:

a: Scrape up the liquid with a razor blade and transfer it to any smoking material

b: Let the glass cool to the touch then scrape it up with some herb/copper mesh

Note: hot DMT-acetate goo is very liquidy and hard to scrape up, the closer to room temperature it is, the thicker and easier it will be to scrape up.

'''2: With a Spoon - Lighter/Candle Method'''

Note:As much as this method might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a spoon then heat it from below with a lighter or candle flame. Be careful not to heat too quickly or it will spatter and DMT some will be lost.

- Continue to heat until the liquid has all gone and you’re left with a thin red liquidy goo that smells strongly but not of vinegar. A hot spoon will rapidly evaporate excess liquid without a flame below, so you can stop heating slightly before the process is finished.

- Carefully scrape up the goo with some herb/copper mesh. It’s usually best to let it cool for at least 30s before doing so to avoid burning yourself and allowing the goo to cool and thicken.

'''A quick warning about stability.'''

You could make lots of doses ahead of time with the slow or quick method, but DMT-acetate seems somewhat unstable outside the tincture. I have some ongoing tests to assess the stability of DMT in this method. The only 2 data points I have so far are:

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment, 1 week = no potency loss.

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment, 1 month = no potency loss.

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 2 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 3 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 6 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 1 year = completely degraded and unsmokable

=== Smoking: ===

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

Whether DMT crystals are melted on it, or DMT-acetate goo is put on them doesn't matter, you create a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50), most of them should work relatively interchangeably with DMT-acetates because the crystals are usually melted into a goo before smoking anyway.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 1 ===
You'll need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)
 Dropper Bottle
 Hot Plate/Stovetop
 Copper Kitchen Scrubber
 Turkey baster/pipette (solvent-safe!)

First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick tomato soup.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Add 150ml or more xylene or d-Limonene for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent, this is normal.
Stir the solvent around all the bark-mush. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes.

Gently pour off the solvent (might need to filter it) into a separate solvent-safe container.

Add 2 shot-glasses of vinegar into the solvent and agitate it a few times over 40-50 minutes

Use a turkey baster/pipette to separate the vinegar at the bottom to a separate container then repeat one more time with fresh vinegar

Put the solvent back on the bark-mush. I recommend pouring it off and doing the vinegar step at 1 day and 2 days, early pulls will yield less.

Combine all the vinegar pulls you have and carefully evaporate them until they start turning red. (you can optionally filter it)

Look at the condensing step for a color reference for a good concentration. It is most likely going to be much less liquid than you expect as it is very potent.

Transfer the liquid to a dropper bottle. Now you have a liquid that can be measured by number of drops and when evaporated (with or without heat) leaves a red goo which is readily smokable DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Scrub up the DMT with the ball and it can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

----

== Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest ==

=== About Naphtha ===
 Naphtha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though its toxicity is quite benign. '''Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.''' The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naphtha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.

Plus 2 things: 1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple of hours. 2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.

Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.

If you are in the US then VM+P Naphtha is your choice. If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices. If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it: 1. Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs) 2. Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.

(What your product will could like if you follow the tek) [[Image:Spicee.jpg]]

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:'''
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the naphtha and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority of problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

 Two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naphtha won't dissolve/degrade) one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best) one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation one freezer 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH) Some Lime Ca(OH)2 100ml or more Naphtha one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)

Useful tools a few Playing cards one or more razor blades/scrapers Some coffee filters 

=== Preparation: ===
[[Image:Materials2.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I do not recommend skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Naphtha'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Naphtha: ===
 [[Image:Napthaandgoo.JPG]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear naphtha solvent floating on top

'''Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naphtha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted.'''

Caution: Naphtha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do all of the following in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Get a large bowl that your bark-mush container/bowl can easily fit in. Place your container/bowl inside the bottom bowl then add boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the container/bowl or as close to that as possible. This will warm the bark mush indirectly and safely.

'''Step 2:''' Once the bark mush has been thoroughly warmed (it does not need to be hot, just nicely warm), add 1ml naphtha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naphtha or more for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 3:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Stir the bark-mush around to contact the solvent with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Danger: Warm naphtha produces lots of expanding fumes, so you MUST vent it frequently whenever it is closed and if you are using something that may shatter, put on gloves and safety glasses. Also, low quality containers are very likely to leak.

When the bark-naphtha mush has been warmed, but is not too hot to handle, seal the container and roll the container around in your hands to mix it. Regularly open the container to vent the pressure from the warm naphtha. Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

For either the bowl or the container, mix well several times over 40-60 minutes,(I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

Place the container/bowl in the hot water when you’re not mixing. Feel the outside of the bowl/container with the bark-mush from time to time and if it is no longer warm then you can replace/add more boiling water in the bowl underneath.

'''Step 4:''' Clean and dry your precipitation container

I find it easiest to work with a small glass cake-baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals. You can use any naphtha-safe container though, the crystals sometimes float around in plastic containers, but not always.

'''Step 5:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container, DRY THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Once your solvent is in you precipication container, proceed to the next step. If you see some clear liquid (water) under your naphtha, this is not good for the next step. Add the solvent back to the bark and immediately do the seperation again more carefully.

Note: Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Precipitation/Crystallization: ===
 [[Image:Spices.JPG]]

The first pull of naphtha from 500g of MHRB after being in the freezer overnight

'''This step works on the principal that naphtha can dissolve DMT-freebase quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naphtha with DMT-freebase dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.'''

'''Step 1:''' Just pop your precipitation container straight into the freezer. If the naphtha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry this is normal. The naphtha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow, especially on the first pull.

Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but although naphtha smells pretty strong, it doesn't linger too long like d-limonene or xylene.

'''Step 3:''' Keep the naphtha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming. If the naphtha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT-freebase molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.

'''Step 4:''' Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take your precipitation container out of the freezer and very gently pour off the naphtha back into your bark-mush.
Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors) place to lean your precipitation container against, the few drops of excess naphtha will drip off and all of the naphtha surrounding the crystals will evaporate in a couple of hours. Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, however usually just SLOWLY pouring the naphtha off works fine. You may use a coffee filter to catch them if you prefer.

'''Once your container no longer smells like naphtha the DMT-freebase is ready! Scrape them up with a razor or a small spoon and put in a small sealable container or baggie for storage. Keep it in a COOL DRY PLACE because DMT crystals will simply melt on a hot day'''

'''Additional Naphtha Pulls:'''

As I mentioned before, there are recommended timings for pulling with naphtha, but they are planned so you don't need to use extra solvent.
My recommended proceedure is as follows:

Warm and Pull either immediately or at 6-8 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 24 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 48 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''The above 3 pulls should total 80-90% of the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Warm and Pull at 1 week after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 2-3 after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''All 5 pulls together should contain 95% or more than the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Final Notes on Extracting with Tek 2:

- The solvent and the crystals will usually be more yellow with each pull. You won't notice the difference when smoking yellow DMT vs white DMT though. Also, your DMT crystals will often turn more yellow over long periods of time.

- There may be a small film underneath the crystals. I am pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT which are both readily smokable and psychoactive like the white DMT crystals.

- You can do a re-crystallization for larger crystals (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Recrystallization)

- If the first 2 pulls don't cloud or precipitate crystals after 8-12 hours then check something in the extraction did not work correctly. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Common_issues.2FTroubleshooting Common issues/Troubleshooting] because that should not happen.

- Technically you can make a tincture from Tek 2 by salting the naphtha with vinegar or dissolving the crystals in vinegar. This will produce a beautiful amber-colored liquid that can be measured in 2-3 drops rather than with a scale. This is my prefered method, but I know everyone loves pretty crystals, so this might take some of the magic out of Tek 2 for many people.

=== Smoking: ===

[[Image:IMG 20200703 121449.jpg]]

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So I can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

You just gently put a single dose of your DMT crystals on the ball then warm it with a ligher until they have melted and coated the metal and you've created a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50)explore and find your favorite one.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 2 ===
You need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 Naphtha
 Freezer

In a bowl, mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of MHRB is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick porridge.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Use a bowl underneath containing hot water to warm your bark mush.
Add about 100ml naphtha for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush.
Stir the naphtha around all the bark. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes, making sure the bark mush is kept warm the whole time.

Wipe the bottom of your bowl dry, then gently pour off the naphtha into a container which will go in the freezer (optionally through a coffee filter to catch sediment). I use an 8 inch pyrex cake pan.
If the naphtha is at a low level in the container you may want to wrap it in saran wrap to prevent evaporation.

In a couple of hours the naphtha should get cloudy. Slowly over 8-12 hours the DMT will precipitate out of the naphtha and form crystals on the container.
When the naphtha is no longer cloudy then gently pour the naphtha off the crystals and back into your bark mush (you may use a coffee filter if you prefer).
Put the container on its side to allow the naphtha to evaporate. Keep it out of the sunlight because the crystals will melt into a goo at about 40C or so.

When the crystals no longer smell of naphtha they are ready to smoke or whatever. Keep in a dime bag or something. STORE IN A COOL DRY PLACE TO AVOID MELTING!

Your first pull will only contain a portion of the total DMT, I recommend warming the naphtha, seperating and crystallizing again at 1 day, 2 days, 1 week and 2-3 weeks. Each pull will yeild less DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Put a dose of DMT crystals gently on the ball, then slowly heat it until they have all melted into it. At that point the ball can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

== Common issues/Troubleshooting ==

The teks are pretty comprehensive, so as long as you follow the steps you can expect success.

There are 5 likely causes of no DMT or very small yields of DMT. Each of them has to do with the quality of your core extraction materials:

'''1. Your Lime is not Calcium Hydroxide'''

This will mean that the PH of your basified bark mush is not low enough to convert the DMT-acetate to DMT freebase. Adding lime and water to the mix may fix this, but it depends on what your previous "lime" was.

'''2. Your Solvent was not the D-limonene/Xylene/Naphtha that was mentioned in the Teks.'''

This will result in either no DMT being dissolved in the solvent, the solvent mixing with the bark, no precipitation of DMT, no salting of DMT or maybe something else.

If your solvent evaporates on glass without leaving reside, completely dry out your lime-bark-solvent outside until it is crumbly (DO NOT USE HEAT!) and then proceeding to pull with proper solvent. Although it is likely to work, no guarentees.

If your solvent leaves a residue when evaporated on glass then it has additives in it and you risk significant health problems by doing anything further, just throw everything out and start again with fresh MHRB and proper solvent!

'''3. Your MHRB is not MHRB'''

This basically means you have no DMT to extract, so there is no solution to this issue other than getting yourself real MHRB

'''4: Your MHRB is not powdered'''

I have tried about 5x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and got a maximum of 5% the yield as powdered bark. If you have unused bark, you can try to powder it in a really strong blender, but most blenders can't powder MHRB. It might be better to just do a lye tek with your MHRB

'''5. Your vinegar is not 5% acetic acid'''

This will result in a successful, but 5x slower tek as it makes it a lime STB. You will have to wait much longer for the lime to work on the MHRB, but you just need patience and you'll get a full yield

 '''Good luck in all your life's endeavors! '''

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Limtek]]
[[Category:Acid/Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]

Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek

2020-07-19T23:29:33Z

Q21q21:

This tek is not Q21Q21's original idea but rather a culmination of many people's ideas. It is NOT perfect so if you can think of a better way to do ANY part of it then try it and PM me if it works! The tek is written in first person but they are Q21Q21's words.

(Q21Q21 being a fictional alien entity... with internet access)'''

 This tek was inspired by: '''Blueskine''' whose idea for freebasing acetates with heat changed my life! '''Noman''' whose tek on erowid inspired my first extraction '''69ron''' and his mescaline tek that taught me the power of lime '''amor_fati''' whose tek inspired me to try a vinegar step and made the tek over 10x faster '''SyZyGyPSy''' was the first person to report using limonene to extract spice '''Anyone whose post was read and forgot who posted it, you all helped.''' '''Lye''' which is so toxic and nasty.

_____________________
== Introduction ==

'''As a comprehensive guide there's lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.'''

'''If you would like to get right into the "What do I do?" then you can start by reading the Super-short Compressed Tek. (Then the full tek later)
'''
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_1 Tek 1 (Uses xylene/d-limonene)]
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_2 Tek 2 (Uses naphtha)]

== Background Information ==

=== The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark ===

While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis (abbreviated as MHRB)

[[image:MHRBthing.png]]

Mimosa Hostilis Plant, Whole Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark (MHRB), Shredded MHRB, Powdered MHRB

Mimosa Hostilis is a shrub that contains '''N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' and 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids (and some TINY amounts of NMT) in its root-bark . 

Discussions about suppliers of MHRB are no longer allowed on the DMT-Nexus, so it's best to do outside-Nexus searches for suppliers.

'''An extremely important note''' is that I have tried about 10x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and failed each time. Powdered MHRB is the only thing I'd recommend to buy as most blenders cannot powder MHRB properly.

=== Info about the 3 types of DMT contained in MHRB ===

Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information. '''Methods:''' [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Pharmahuasca Pharmahuasca], [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Guide_to_Mucosahuasca Mucosahuasca] or [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17873 Smoking]

''' White N-N-DMT'''
 
 [[Image:Crystals.JPG]] White DMT I extracted using Tek 2

'''White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' is pure DMT. MHRB usually contains about 1% of its weight in '''White DMT''', though yields from extractions of less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.

In the past the ultimate goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just '''White DMT''' in it. 

'''Red "Jungle" DMT'''

[[Image:SANY0069.JPG]] Thick dark red Jungle DMT extracted from by fully depleting the MHRB using naphtha, then pulling with xylene

"Jungle" DMT is also contained in the bark but cannot be extracted into crystals like '''White DMT'''

Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produces effects similar in duration and effects to '''White DMT'''. 
I strongly believe the yellow DMT which MANY people prefer to pure '''White DMT''' is in fact small amounts of Jungle DMT mixed with the '''White DMT.''' I think the cause of this is because Jungle DMT is ever so slightly soluble in naphtha.
An [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=156691 analysis] was done on this Jungle DMT and it is mostly (95%) DMT. Nonetheless I and many others still believe Jungle DMT produces noticeably different effects.

'''Yellow DMT-N-oxide'''

[[Image:SANY0050.JPG]] Crystallized DMT-N-oxide made with peroxide and white DMT

DMT-N-oxide was previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, but in fact Oxides seems unlikely to be present in the extracted DMT in significant amounts at all. (as I mentioned I believe that yellow is Jungle DMT)
 I and many others have smoked DMT which has been in ambient air for months/years without any significant loss of potency. 
Considering my tests (using the Oxides in the picture) suggest Oxides are about 1/3 or less potent than '''white DMT''' or jungle DMT when smoked (waiting on replication of this test to be positive though) then I conclude Oxides are insignificant and need not be worried about.

'''Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product'''

[[Image:Capture.PNG]]

Jimjam DMT I extracted using Tek 1 with d-limonene

If all the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum product called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during Tek 1.

Jimjam is considered by many to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though yields from extractions of more than 2% are not unheard of.

DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like Jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries - make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.

=== About the 2 teks ===
 [[Image:Suolvents.png]] 

Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naphtha they will be referred to as "the solvent"

In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used. '''Tek 2''' uses '''naphtha''' (lighter fluid) while
Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner but also used to dissolve HIPS 3D-printing supports)

(Vegetable oil can also apparently be used for Tek 1, you can search the Nexus for the many long threads talking about using it as a solvent)

'''Naphtha''' needs to be heated to dissolve or else it won't dissolve anything but its unique solubility properties allow for '''White DMT''' to be crystallized out when it is cooled in a freezer.
'''Tek 2''' thus involves a heating-step and a freezer-step that Tek 1 does not have. However, naphtha does not dissolve Jungle DMT very well so the extracted product will be almost entirely '''white DMT''' and leave the Jungle DMT in the MHRB.

d-limonene and xylene dissolve both '''white DMT''' and Jungle DMT at room temperate so Tek 1 doesn't need a heating step. Because of that it will yield full-spectrum product Jimjam DMT but since it is soluble, even when the solvent is cold, freezer precipitation doesn't work, so one of many different methods can be used to isolate the Jimjam DMT from the solvent.

Useful to know: If d-limonene is used, the tek will be

''<nowiki>*100% food-safe*</nowiki>'' 

Note:d-limonene still smells very strong and lingers in your house

'''For a first-timer [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Tek_2:_The_Fluffy_White_Funfest Tek 2] may be better advised than Tek 1 because it requires fewer steps and is well-suited for very small test batches like 30g-50g MHRB. I recommend Tek 1 for larger batches.

That being said, both teks are quite simple - comparable to baking a cake.'''

=== A little info on Lime ===
 [[Image:Lime.png]] 

'''The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is a replacement for lye which is very caustic and toxic.'''

lime is known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.

Until recently using caustic and toxic '''Sodium Hydroxide''' (lye, drain cleaner) was the only option as the base when extracting DMT. Lye is very potentially dangerous

These Teks instead use '''Lime'''. '''Lime''' is a powerful base that is actually food safe. It is powerfully alkaline so take care not to get it in your eyes or inhale it and wash your hands after touching it.

There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities. 

'''Here are some tips:'' Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums. So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores.

Local availability varies all the way from none to lots depending on country/location. If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.

If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally. Look on the internet for something and confirm that it is pure Ca(OH)2 before purchasing it from a reputable vendor.

If I haven't made this clear enough, let me end this section with a final clarification:
You MUST use proper lime for this tek to work! Make sure you do, good luck!

== Tek 1: The Jimjam party ==

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:''' 
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

Extraction Specific: 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH) 30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2) 125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark) Some Sealable and shakeable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel one Turkey baster or pipette(HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one Stove or Kettle one Pot or Pan

Useful tools one or more Funnels one Rice cooker one Baking pan/large surface area container one or more razor blades/scrapers one or two high quality mason jars 

Tincture tools one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml) one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses one spoon one lighter/candle/heat source

=== Preparation: ===
 [[Image:Materials.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I do not recommend skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent: ===
 [[Image:Dlime.jpg]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear d-limonene solvent floating on top

Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted '''''

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g) 

'''Step 2:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:''' mix with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:''' you can just roll the container around in your hands to mix it.

Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

Mix it well several times over 40-60 minutes. (I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

'''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY.'''

'''Step 3:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Note:Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Alternative Next-Steps ===
'''Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method.
There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB (Step 4)] by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead.

'''↓My preferred method is below↓'''

=== Salting with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:IMG_20200528_061727.jpg]]

Cloudy d-limonene floating on top of yellowish vinegar

'''''This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.'''''

Note 1: Xylene and D-Limonene are very leaky, most containers will eventually start leaking during the salting process. I recommend high quality mason jars that you’ve tested the lids to make sure the solvent doesn’t react with.

'''Step 1:''' Pour some vinegar into the sealable container with the solvent. About 2 shot glasses full.

'''Step 2:''' Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefer to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. Emulsions in this step always resolve pretty easily. No need to be careful.

Agitate the container 3-4 times over 40-60 minutes. The solvent will quickly start to get cloudy and the vinegar will gradually get more yellow.

You don’t have to wait until the solvent gets clear, it doesn’t seem to relate to the process being finished.

'''Step 3:''' Use a turkey baster/pipette to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container. As with the other liquid separations, 90% is okay.

Note 2: Try to get as little of the solvent during the separation as possible. This solvent will leave plant oils and other junk in your end product. That being said, a 1mm layer of solvent atop your vinegar is common using this method.

'''Step 4:'''
Repeat steps 1-3 once in exactly the same way, combine the separated vinegar pulls in a sealable container. Keep it safe because any spill will be a loss of lots of DMT!

For those that want DMT as soon as possible, proceed immediately on to the condensing step after Step 4.

'''Step 5:''' For those more patient/lazy, plan for your next non-polar solvent use.

'''The most efficient/least effort extraction:'''

'''Non-polar pull #1''' - 6-8 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #2''' - 24 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #3''' - 48 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the above 3 pulls should contain 80-90% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all of the vinegar from pulls 1-3 and proceed to the condensing step.

'''Non-polar pull #4''' - 1 week after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #5''' - 2-3 weeks after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the 5 pulls together should contain at least 95% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all the vinegar from pulls 4-5 and do another condensing.

=== Condensing/Tincture Making: ===
 [[Image:Condensing.jpg]]

The process of condensing vinegar from light yellow liquid to a dense red tincture (all pulls from 500g MHRB)

'''This step is just to concentrate the vinegar containing the DMT down to a dense liquid "tincture" which can easily measure dosages by number of drops.'''

The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all of your DMT maintaining a consistent concentration. This tincture will keep indefinitely, I have used the same for 3+ years with no loss of potency.

Note 1: You could technically evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smokeable product. But that would result in a goo which is very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air. I honestly wouldn't recommend it that method though.

'''There are many steps to do in the condensing, so I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar saltings into one because it makes your house smell very vinegary for a few hours and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times. Moreover, combining tinctures changes their concentrations, requiring re-measuring.'''

'''Step 1:''' Filter the vinegar through a cotton ball in a funnel, then add a bit of water to wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball and pour it all in a pot.

'''Step 2:''' Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 40-50ml

'''Step 3:''' Remove the pot from heat, then use a dropper to carefully filter the liquid through a cotton ball then wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball again with water

'''Step 4:''' Lower the heat to medium low and watch it carefully until it is around starts to become red in color.

Note 2: You can estimate the resulting liquid based on the amount of MHRB used. The combined vinegar from 3 solvent pulls will result in roughly 1tsp/5ml for every 100g MHRB used at 10mg/drop. Generally it's much less liquid than you expect, especially if you're used to dosing with crystals.

'''Step 5:''' As the liquid becomes redder and redder, '''before the liquid is all gone,''' remove the pot from heat, tip the pot to the side and use a dropper to transfer your tincture to a dropper bottle.

'''It is a delicate balance of not removing all liquid, but getting a good concentration. It is best to aim for a little less liquid than a little more for 2 reasons:

You’ll need to rinse the pot with a few mL of water to get all the DMT off, adding additional liquid to the tincture

Adding more liquid is extremely simple, while removing liquid means doing the condensing again.'''

'''A tincture can vary hugely based on a few factors. The color is a simple general indicator of the concentration. Here are pictures of 3 different concentration levels:'''

[[Image:Captude.PNG]]

5mg per drop

[[Image:Capturfde.PNG]]

10mg per drop

[[Image:Captufdare.PNG]]

15mg per drop

More concentration can be done, but tinctures will get thicker and thicker until they are a thick goo (at room temperature) of pure DMT at around 50mg per drop.

For those wanting a more formal measurement of the concentration, proceed on to next optional section.

=== Measuring the tincture: ===
 Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.

Quantitative Concentration (numerical):

- Drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster.

- Put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) '''NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!'''

- Once the liquid has dissolved and it smells strongly, but not of vinegar, turn off the element and let it sit until cool enough to handle.

During the cooling, measure the weight of a razor blade using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.

- Remove the coaster from the element then scrape up the goo with a razor and measured using the scale.

- Subtract the weight of the razor blade then divide the number by 10 and that is the concentration per drop.

- Label the tincture with the concentration.

Note: Don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change!

Qualitative Concentration (subjective): This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca - Use one of the methods from the next section to evaporate 1 drop of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. - If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 2 drops, then 3, 4, etc. until adequate effects are achieved. - Concentration will then be *number* drops = Mild *number* drops = Strong *number* drops = Breakthrough *number* drops = Too Strong!

- Label the tincture with the recommended drops for a dosage.

=== Evaporation and Smoking: ===
 [[Image:Evaporatinsssg.png]]

Preparing a dose using the slow method and smoking DMT off copper using a home-made glass pipe and home-made glass bong

'''''After evaporating all the liquid from some of the tincture you are left with nearly pure DMT acetate goo. DMT acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and decomposes into freebase DMT with heat, so it is readily smokable (and doesn't taste like vinegar)'''''

The Slow and Patient Method

Simply put a number of drops of tincture for a single dose of DMT on your smoking material and let it dry for a few hours before smoking.

'''Smoking materials:'''

Neutral Herb (Mullien, Peppermint)

Maoi Containing Herb (Caapi, Passionflower)

Pre-torched Ceramic Fiber Ball

Pre-Charred Copper Kitchen Scrubber Ball

Silicon Carbide Ceramic Foam

Caution: Vinegar on copper may result in smoking small amounts of copper acetate which is not good for you. I cannot formally recommend this method for long term health without more information/research

The Hot and Quick Method

Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!

'''1: On Glass - Stove/Oven Method'''

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a flat glass coaster (I got my from the dollar store and then removed the rubber feet and glue from the bottom)

- Put the glass onto an electric stove element or into an oven at AS LOW AS POSSIBLE (do not use a gas stovetop)

- After the liquid evaporated and it doesn’t smell of vinegar it is ready. Usually about 1-2 minutes or 5 for fewer drops

- You can either:

a: Scrape up the liquid with a razor blade and transfer it to any smoking material

b: Let the glass cool to the touch then scrape it up with some herb/copper mesh

Note: hot DMT-acetate goo is very liquidy and hard to scrape up, the closer to room temperature it is, the thicker and easier it will be to scrape up.

'''2: With a Spoon - Lighter/Candle Method'''

Note:As much as this method might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a spoon then heat it from below with a lighter or candle flame. Be careful not to heat too quickly or it will spatter and DMT some will be lost.

- Continue to heat until the liquid has all gone and you’re left with a thin red liquidy goo that smells strongly but not of vinegar. A hot spoon will rapidly evaporate excess liquid without a flame below, so you can stop heating slightly before the process is finished.

- Carefully scrape up the goo with some herb/copper mesh. It’s usually best to let it cool for at least 30s before doing so to avoid burning yourself and allowing the goo to cool and thicken.

'''A quick warning about stability.'''

You could make lots of doses ahead of time with the slow or quick method, but DMT-acetate seems somewhat unstable outside the tincture. I have some ongoing tests to assess the stability of DMT in this method. The only 2 data points I have so far are:

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment, 1 week = no potency loss.

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment, 1 month = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 2 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 3 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 6 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 1 year = completely degraded and unsmokable

=== Smoking: ===

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

Whether DMT crystals are melted on it, or DMT-acetate goo is put on them doesn't matter, you create a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50), most of them should work relatively interchangeably with DMT-acetates because the crystals are usually melted into a goo before smoking anyway.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 1 ===
You'll need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)
 Dropper Bottle
 Hot Plate/Stovetop
 Copper Kitchen Scrubber
 Turkey baster/pipette (solvent-safe!)

First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick tomato soup.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Add 150ml or more xylene or d-Limonene for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent, this is normal.
Stir the solvent around all the bark-mush. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes.

Gently pour off the solvent (might need to filter it) into a separate solvent-safe container.

Add 2 shot-glasses of vinegar into the solvent and agitate it a few times over 40-50 minutes

Use a turkey baster/pipette to separate the vinegar at the bottom to a separate container then repeat one more time with fresh vinegar

Put the solvent back on the bark-mush. I recommend pouring it off and doing the vinegar step at 1 day and 2 days, early pulls will yield less.

Combine all the vinegar pulls you have and carefully evaporate them until they start turning red. (you can optionally filter it)

Look at the condensing step for a color reference for a good concentration. It is most likely going to be much less liquid than you expect as it is very potent.

Transfer the liquid to a dropper bottle. Now you have a liquid that can be measured by number of drops and when evaporated (with or without heat) leaves a red goo which is readily smokable DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Scrub up the DMT with the ball and it can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

----

== Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest ==

=== About Naphtha ===
 Naphtha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though its toxicity is quite benign. '''Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.''' The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naphtha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.

Plus 2 things: 1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple of hours. 2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.

Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.

If you are in the US then VM+P Naphtha is your choice. If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices. If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it: 1. Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs) 2. Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.

(What your product will could like if you follow the tek) [[Image:Spicee.jpg]]

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:'''
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the naphtha and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority of problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

 Two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naphtha won't dissolve/degrade) one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best) one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation one freezer 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH) Some Lime Ca(OH)2 100ml or more Naphtha one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)

Useful tools a few Playing cards one or more razor blades/scrapers Some coffee filters 

=== Preparation: ===
[[Image:Materials2.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I do not recommend skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Naphtha'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Naphtha: ===
 [[Image:Napthaandgoo.JPG]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear naphtha solvent floating on top

'''Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naphtha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted.'''

Caution: Naphtha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do all of the following in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Get a large bowl that your bark-mush container/bowl can easily fit in. Place your container/bowl inside the bottom bowl then add boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the container/bowl or as close to that as possible. This will warm the bark mush indirectly and safely.

'''Step 2:''' Once the bark mush has been thoroughly warmed (it does not need to be hot, just nicely warm), add 1ml naphtha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naphtha or more for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 3:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Stir the bark-mush around to contact the solvent with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Danger: Warm naphtha produces lots of expanding fumes, so you MUST vent it frequently whenever it is closed and if you are using something that may shatter, put on gloves and safety glasses. Also, low quality containers are very likely to leak.

When the bark-naphtha mush has been warmed, but is not too hot to handle, seal the container and roll the container around in your hands to mix it. Regularly open the container to vent the pressure from the warm naphtha. Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

For either the bowl or the container, mix well several times over 40-60 minutes,(I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

Place the container/bowl in the hot water when you’re not mixing. Feel the outside of the bowl/container with the bark-mush from time to time and if it is no longer warm then you can replace/add more boiling water in the bowl underneath.

'''Step 4:''' Clean and dry your precipitation container

I find it easiest to work with a small glass cake-baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals. You can use any naphtha-safe container though, the crystals sometimes float around in plastic containers, but not always.

'''Step 5:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container, DRY THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Once your solvent is in you precipication container, proceed to the next step. If you see some clear liquid (water) under your naphtha, this is not good for the next step. Add the solvent back to the bark and immediately do the seperation again more carefully.

Note: Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Precipitation/Crystallization: ===
 [[Image:Spices.JPG]]

The first pull of naphtha from 500g of MHRB after being in the freezer overnight

'''This step works on the principal that naphtha can dissolve DMT-freebase quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naphtha with DMT-freebase dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.'''

'''Step 1:''' Just pop your precipitation container straight into the freezer. If the naphtha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry this is normal. The naphtha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow, especially on the first pull.

Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but although naphtha smells pretty strong, it doesn't linger too long like d-limonene or xylene.

'''Step 3:''' Keep the naphtha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming. If the naphtha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT-freebase molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.

'''Step 4:''' Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take your precipitation container out of the freezer and very gently pour off the naphtha back into your bark-mush.
Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors) place to lean your precipitation container against, the few drops of excess naphtha will drip off and all of the naphtha surrounding the crystals will evaporate in a couple of hours. Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, however usually just SLOWLY pouring the naphtha off works fine. You may use a coffee filter to catch them if you prefer.

'''Once your container no longer smells like naphtha the DMT-freebase is ready! Scrape them up with a razor or a small spoon and put in a small sealable container or baggie for storage. Keep it in a COOL DRY PLACE because DMT crystals will simply melt on a hot day'''

'''Additional Naphtha Pulls:'''

As I mentioned before, there are recommended timings for pulling with naphtha, but they are planned so you don't need to use extra solvent.
My recommended proceedure is as follows:

Warm and Pull either immediately or at 6-8 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 24 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 48 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''The above 3 pulls should total 80-90% of the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Warm and Pull at 1 week after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 2-3 after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''All 5 pulls together should contain 95% or more than the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Final Notes on Extracting with Tek 2:

- The solvent and the crystals will usually be more yellow with each pull. You won't notice the difference when smoking yellow DMT vs white DMT though. Also, your DMT crystals will often turn more yellow over long periods of time.

- There may be a small film underneath the crystals. I am pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT which are both readily smokable and psychoactive like the white DMT crystals.

- You can do a re-crystallization for larger crystals (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Recrystallization)

- If the first 2 pulls don't cloud or precipitate crystals after 8-12 hours then check something in the extraction did not work correctly. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Common_issues.2FTroubleshooting Common issues/Troubleshooting] because that should not happen.

- Technically you can make a tincture from Tek 2 by salting the naphtha with vinegar or dissolving the crystals in vinegar. This will produce a beautiful amber-colored liquid that can be measured in 2-3 drops rather than with a scale. This is my prefered method, but I know everyone loves pretty crystals, so this might take some of the magic out of Tek 2 for many people.

=== Smoking: ===

[[Image:IMG 20200703 121449.jpg]]

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So I can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

You just gently put a single dose of your DMT crystals on the ball then warm it with a ligher until they have melted and coated the metal and you've created a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50)explore and find your favorite one.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 2 ===
You need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 Naphtha
 Freezer

In a bowl, mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of MHRB is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick porridge.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Use a bowl underneath containing hot water to warm your bark mush.
Add about 100ml naphtha for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush.
Stir the naphtha around all the bark. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes, making sure the bark mush is kept warm the whole time.

Wipe the bottom of your bowl dry, then gently pour off the naphtha into a container which will go in the freezer (optionally through a coffee filter to catch sediment). I use an 8 inch pyrex cake pan.
If the naphtha is at a low level in the container you may want to wrap it in saran wrap to prevent evaporation.

In a couple of hours the naphtha should get cloudy. Slowly over 8-12 hours the DMT will precipitate out of the naphtha and form crystals on the container.
When the naphtha is no longer cloudy then gently pour the naphtha off the crystals and back into your bark mush (you may use a coffee filter if you prefer).
Put the container on its side to allow the naphtha to evaporate. Keep it out of the sunlight because the crystals will melt into a goo at about 40C or so.

When the crystals no longer smell of naphtha they are ready to smoke or whatever. Keep in a dime bag or something. STORE IN A COOL DRY PLACE TO AVOID MELTING!

Your first pull will only contain a portion of the total DMT, I recommend warming the naphtha, seperating and crystallizing again at 1 day, 2 days, 1 week and 2-3 weeks. Each pull will yeild less DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Put a dose of DMT crystals gently on the ball, then slowly heat it until they have all melted into it. At that point the ball can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

== Common issues/Troubleshooting ==

The teks are pretty comprehensive, so as long as you follow the steps you can expect success.

There are 5 likely causes of no DMT or very small yields of DMT. Each of them has to do with the quality of your core extraction materials:

'''1. Your Lime is not Calcium Hydroxide'''

This will mean that the PH of your basified bark mush is not low enough to convert the DMT-acetate to DMT freebase. Adding lime and water to the mix may fix this, but it depends on what your previous "lime" was.

'''2. Your Solvent was not the D-limonene/Xylene/Naphtha that was mentioned in the Teks.'''

This will result in either no DMT being dissolved in the solvent, the solvent mixing with the bark, no precipitation of DMT, no salting of DMT or maybe something else.

If your solvent evaporates on glass without leaving reside, completely dry out your lime-bark-solvent outside until it is crumbly (DO NOT USE HEAT!) and then proceeding to pull with proper solvent. Although it is likely to work, no guarentees.

If your solvent leaves a residue when evaporated on glass then it has additives in it and you risk significant health problems by doing anything further, just throw everything out and start again with fresh MHRB and proper solvent!

'''3. Your MHRB is not MHRB'''

This basically means you have no DMT to extract, so there is no solution to this issue other than getting yourself real MHRB

'''4: Your MHRB is not powdered'''

I have tried about 5x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and got a maximum of 5% the yield as powdered bark. If you have unused bark, you can try to powder it in a really strong blender, but most blenders can't powder MHRB. It might be better to just do a lye tek with your MHRB

'''5. Your vinegar is not 5% acetic acid'''

This will result in a successful, but 5x slower tek as it makes it a lime STB. You will have to wait much longer for the lime to work on the MHRB, but you just need patience and you'll get a full yield

 '''Good luck in all your life's endeavors! '''

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Limtek]]
[[Category:Acid/Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]

Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek

2020-07-19T23:27:59Z

Q21q21:

This tek is not Q21Q21's original idea but rather a culmination of many people's ideas. It is NOT perfect so if you can think of a better way to do ANY part of it then try it and PM me if it works! The tek is written in first person but they are Q21Q21's words.

(Q21Q21 being a fictional alien entity... with internet access)'''

 This tek was inspired by: '''Blueskine''' whose idea for freebasing acetates with heat changed my life! '''Noman''' whose tek on erowid inspired my first extraction '''69ron''' and his mescaline tek that taught me the power of lime '''amor_fati''' whose tek inspired me to try a vinegar step and made the tek over 10x faster '''SyZyGyPSy''' was the first person to report using limonene to extract spice '''Anyone whose post was read and forgot who posted it, you all helped.''' '''Lye''' which is so toxic and nasty.

_____________________
== Introduction ==

'''As a comprehensive guide there's lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.'''

'''If you would like to get right into the "What do I do?" then you can start by reading the Super-short Compressed Tek. (Then the full tek later)
'''
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_1 Tek 1 (Uses xylene/d-limonene)]
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_2 Tek 2 (Uses naphtha)]

== Background Information ==

=== The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark ===

While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis (abbreviated as MHRB)

[[image:MHRBthing.png]]

Mimosa Hostilis Plant, Whole Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark (MHRB), Shredded MHRB, Powdered MHRB

Mimosa Hostilis is a shrub that contains '''N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' and 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids (and some TINY amounts of NMT) in its root-bark . 

Discussions about suppliers of MHRB are no longer allowed on the DMT-Nexus, so it's best to do outside-Nexus searches for suppliers.

'''An extremely important note''' is that I have tried about 10x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and failed each time. Powdered MHRB is the only thing I'd recommend to buy as most blenders cannot powder MHRB properly.

=== Info about the 3 types of DMT contained in MHRB ===

Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information. '''Methods:''' [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Pharmahuasca Pharmahuasca], [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Guide_to_Mucosahuasca Mucosahuasca] or [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17873 Smoking]

''' White N-N-DMT'''
 
 [[Image:Crystals.JPG]] White DMT I extracted using Tek 2

'''White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' is pure DMT. MHRB usually contains about 1% of its weight in '''White DMT''', though yields from extractions of less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.

In the past the ultimate goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just '''White DMT''' in it. 

'''Red "Jungle" DMT'''

[[Image:SANY0069.JPG]] Thick dark red Jungle DMT extracted from by fully depleting the MHRB using naphtha, then pulling with xylene

"Jungle" DMT is also contained in the bark but cannot be extracted into crystals like '''White DMT'''

Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produces effects similar in duration and effects to '''White DMT'''. 
I strongly believe the yellow DMT which MANY people prefer to pure '''White DMT''' is in fact small amounts of Jungle DMT mixed with the '''White DMT.''' I think the cause of this is because Jungle DMT is ever so slightly soluble in naphtha.
An [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=156691 analysis] was done on this Jungle DMT and it is mostly (95%) DMT. Nonetheless I and many others still believe Jungle DMT produces noticeably different effects.

'''Yellow DMT-N-oxide'''

[[Image:SANY0050.JPG]] Crystallized DMT-N-oxide made with peroxide and white DMT

DMT-N-oxide was previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, but in fact Oxides seems unlikely to be present in the extracted DMT in significant amounts at all. (as I mentioned I believe that yellow is Jungle DMT)
 I and many others have smoked DMT which has been in ambient air for months/years without any significant loss of potency. 
Considering my tests (using the Oxides in the picture) suggest Oxides are about 1/3 or less potent than '''white DMT''' or jungle DMT when smoked (waiting on replication of this test to be positive though) then I conclude Oxides are insignificant and need not be worried about.

'''Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product'''

[[Image:Capture.PNG]]

Jimjam DMT I extracted using Tek 1 with d-limonene

If all the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum product called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during Tek 1.

Jimjam is considered by many to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though yields from extractions of more than 2% are not unheard of.

DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like Jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries - make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.

=== About the 2 teks ===
 [[Image:Suolvents.png]] 

Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naphtha they will be referred to as "the solvent"

In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used. '''Tek 2''' uses '''naphtha''' (lighter fluid) while
Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner but also used to dissolve HIPS 3D-printing supports)

(Vegetable oil can also apparently be used for Tek 1, you can search the Nexus for the many long threads talking about using it as a solvent)

'''Naphtha''' needs to be heated to dissolve or else it won't dissolve anything but its unique solubility properties allow for '''White DMT''' to be crystallized out when it is cooled in a freezer.
'''Tek 2''' thus involves a heating-step and a freezer-step that Tek 1 does not have. However, naphtha does not dissolve Jungle DMT very well so the extracted product will be almost entirely '''white DMT''' and leave the Jungle DMT in the MHRB.

d-limonene and xylene dissolve both '''white DMT''' and Jungle DMT at room temperate so Tek 1 doesn't need a heating step. Because of that it will yield full-spectrum product Jimjam DMT but since it is soluble, even when the solvent is cold, freezer precipitation doesn't work, so one of many different methods can be used to isolate the Jimjam DMT from the solvent.

Useful to know: If d-limonene is used, the tek will be

''<nowiki>*100% food-safe*</nowiki>'' 

Note:d-limonene still smells very strong and lingers in your house

'''For a first-timer [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Tek_2:_The_Fluffy_White_Funfest Tek 2] may be better advised than Tek 1 because it requires fewer steps and is well-suited for very small test batches like 30g-50g MHRB. I recommend Tek 1 for larger batches.

That being said, both teks are quite simple - comparable to baking a cake.'''

=== A little info on Lime ===
 [[Image:Lime.png]] 

'''The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is a replacement for lye which is very caustic and toxic.'''

lime is known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.

Until recently using caustic and toxic '''Sodium Hydroxide''' (lye, drain cleaner) was the only option as the base when extracting DMT. Lye is very potentially dangerous

These Teks instead use '''Lime'''. '''Lime''' is a powerful base that is actually food safe. It is powerfully alkaline so take care not to get it in your eyes or inhale it and wash your hands after touching it.

There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities. 

'''Here are some tips:'' Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums. So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores.

Local availability varies all the way from none to lots depending on country/location. If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.

If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally. Look on the internet for something and confirm that it is pure Ca(OH)2 before purchasing it from a reputable vendor.

If I haven't made this clear enough, let me end this section with a final clarification:
You MUST use proper lime for this tek to work! Make sure you do, good luck!

== Tek 1: The Jimjam party ==

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:''' 
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

Extraction Specific: 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH) 30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2) 125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark) Some Sealable and shakeable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel one Turkey baster or pipette(HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one Stove or Kettle one Pot or Pan

Useful tools one or more Funnels one Rice cooker one Baking pan/large surface area container one or more razor blades/scrapers one or two high quality mason jars 

Tincture tools one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml) one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses one spoon one lighter/candle/heat source

=== Preparation: ===
 [[Image:Materials.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I do not recommend skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent: ===
 [[Image:Dlime.jpg]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear d-limonene solvent floating on top

Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted '''''

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g) 

'''Step 2:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:''' mix with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:''' you can just roll the container around in your hands to mix it.

Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

Mix it well several times over 40-60 minutes. (I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

'''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY.'''

'''Step 3:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Note:Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Alternative Next-Steps ===
'''Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method.
There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB (Step 4)] by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead.

'''↓My preferred method is below↓'''

=== Salting with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:IMG_20200528_061727.jpg]]

Cloudy d-limonene floating on top of yellowish vinegar

'''''This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.'''''

Note 1: Xylene and D-Limonene are very leaky, most containers will eventually start leaking during the salting process. I recommend high quality mason jars that you’ve tested the lids to make sure the solvent doesn’t react with.

'''Step 1:''' Pour some vinegar into the sealable container with the solvent. About 2 shot glasses full.

'''Step 2:''' Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefer to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. Emulsions in this step always resolve pretty easily. No need to be careful.

Agitate the container 3-4 times over 40-60 minutes. The solvent will quickly start to get cloudy and the vinegar will gradually get more yellow.

You don’t have to wait until the solvent gets clear, it doesn’t seem to relate to the process being finished.

'''Step 3:''' Use a turkey baster/pipette to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container. As with the other liquid separations, 90% is okay.

Note 2: Try to get as little of the solvent during the separation as possible. This solvent will leave plant oils and other junk in your end product. That being said, a 1mm layer of solvent atop your vinegar is common using this method.

'''Step 4:'''
Repeat steps 1-3 once in exactly the same way, combine the separated vinegar pulls in a sealable container. Keep it safe because any spill will be a loss of lots of DMT!

For those that want DMT as soon as possible, proceed immediately on to the condensing step after Step 4.

'''Step 5:''' For those more patient/lazy, plan for your next non-polar solvent use.

'''The most efficient/least effort extraction:'''

'''Non-polar pull #1''' - 6-8 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #2''' - 24 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #3''' - 48 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the above 3 pulls should contain 80-90% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all of the vinegar from pulls 1-3 and proceed to the condensing step.

'''Non-polar pull #4''' - 1 week after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #5''' - 2-3 weeks after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the 5 pulls together should contain at least 95% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all the vinegar from pulls 4-5 and do another condensing.

=== Condensing/Tincture Making: ===
 [[Image:Condensing.jpg]]

The process of condensing vinegar from light yellow liquid to a dense red tincture (all pulls from 500g MHRB)

'''This step is just to concentrate the vinegar containing the DMT down to a dense liquid "tincture" which can easily measure dosages by number of drops.'''

The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all of your DMT maintaining a consistent concentration. This tincture will keep indefinitely, I have used the same for 3+ years with no loss of potency.

Note 1: You could technically evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smokeable product. But that would result in a goo which is very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air. I honestly wouldn't recommend it that method though.

'''There are many steps to do in the condensing, so I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar saltings into one because it makes your house smell very vinegary for a few hours and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times. Moreover, combining tinctures changes their concentrations, requiring re-measuring.'''

'''Step 1:''' Filter the vinegar through a cotton ball in a funnel, then add a bit of water to wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball and pour it all in a pot.

'''Step 2:''' Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 40-50ml

'''Step 3:''' Remove the pot from heat, then use a dropper to carefully filter the liquid through a cotton ball then wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball again with water

'''Step 4:''' Lower the heat to medium low and watch it carefully until it is around starts to become red in color.

Note 2: You can estimate the resulting liquid based on the amount of MHRB used. The combined vinegar from 3 solvent pulls will result in roughly 1tsp/5ml for every 100g MHRB used at 10mg/drop. Generally it's much less liquid than you expect, especially if you're used to dosing with crystals.

'''Step 5:''' As the liquid becomes redder and redder, '''before the liquid is all gone,''' remove the pot from heat, tip the pot to the side and use a dropper to transfer your tincture to a dropper bottle.

'''It is a delicate balance of not removing all liquid, but getting a good concentration. It is best to aim for a little less liquid than a little more for 2 reasons:

You’ll need to rinse the pot with a few mL of water to get all the DMT off, adding additional liquid to the tincture

Adding more liquid is extremely simple, while removing liquid means doing the condensing again.'''

'''A tincture can vary hugely based on a few factors. The color is a simple general indicator of the concentration. Here are pictures of 3 different concentration levels:'''

[[Image:Captude.PNG]]

5mg per drop

[[Image:Capturfde.PNG]]

10mg per drop

[[Image:Captufdare.PNG]]

15mg per drop

More concentration can be done, but tinctures will get thicker and thicker until they are a thick goo (at room temperature) of pure DMT at around 50mg per drop.

For those wanting a more formal measurement of the concentration, proceed on to next optional section.

=== Measuring the tincture: ===
 Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.

Quantitative Concentration (numerical):

- Drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster.

- Put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) '''NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!'''

- Once the liquid has dissolved and it smells strongly, but not of vinegar, turn off the element and let it sit until cool enough to handle.

During the cooling, measure the weight of a razor blade using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.

- Remove the coaster from the element then scrape up the goo with a razor and measured using the scale.

- Subtract the weight of the razor blade then divide the number by 10 and that is the concentration per drop.

- Label the tincture with the concentration.

Note: Don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change!

Qualitative Concentration (subjective): This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca - Use one of the methods from the next section to evaporate 1 drop of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. - If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 2 drops, then 3, 4, etc. until adequate effects are achieved. - Concentration will then be *number* drops = Mild *number* drops = Strong *number* drops = Breakthrough *number* drops = Too Strong!

- Label the tincture with the recommended drops for a dosage.

=== Evaporation and Smoking: ===
 [[Image:Evaporatinsssg.png]]

Preparing a dose using the slow method and smoking DMT off copper using a home-made glass pipe and home-made glass bong

'''''After evaporating all the liquid from some of the tincture you are left with nearly pure DMT acetate goo. DMT acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and decomposes into freebase DMT with heat, so it is readily smokable (and doesn't taste like vinegar)'''''

The Slow and Patient Method

Simply put a number of drops of tincture for a single dose of DMT on your smoking material and let it dry for a few hours before smoking.

'''Smoking materials:'''

Neutral Herb (Mullien, Peppermint)

Maoi Containing Herb (Caapi, Passionflower)

Pre-torched Ceramic Fiber Ball

Pre-Charred Copper Kitchen Scrubber Ball

Silicon Carbide Ceramic Foam

Caution: Vinegar on copper may result in smoking small amounts of copper acetate which is not good for you. I cannot formally recommend this method for long term health without more information/research

The Hot and Quick Method

Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!

'''1: On Glass - Stove/Oven Method'''

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a flat glass coaster (I got my from the dollar store and then removed the rubber feet and glue from the bottom)

- Put the glass onto an electric stove element or into an oven at AS LOW AS POSSIBLE (do not use a gas stovetop)

- After the liquid evaporated and it doesn’t smell of vinegar it is ready. Usually about 1-2 minutes or 5 for fewer drops

- You can either:

a: Scrape up the liquid with a razor blade and transfer it to any smoking material

b: Let the glass cool to the touch then scrape it up with some herb/copper mesh

Note: hot DMT-acetate goo is very liquidy and hard to scrape up, the closer to room temperature it is, the thicker and easier it will be to scrape up.

'''2: With a Spoon - Lighter/Candle Method'''

Note:As much as this method might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a spoon then heat it from below with a lighter or candle flame. Be careful not to heat too quickly or it will spatter and DMT some will be lost.

- Continue to heat until the liquid has all gone and you’re left with a thin red liquidy goo that smells strongly but not of vinegar. A hot spoon will rapidly evaporate excess liquid without a flame below, so you can stop heating slightly before the process is finished.

- Carefully scrape up the goo with some herb/copper mesh. It’s usually best to let it cool for at least 30s before doing so to avoid burning yourself and allowing the goo to cool and thicken.

'''A quick warning about stability.'''

You could make lots of doses ahead of time with the slow or quick method, but DMT-acetate seems somewhat unstable outside the tincture. I have some ongoing tests to assess the stability of DMT in this method. The only 2 data points I have so far are:

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment, 1 week = no potency loss.

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment, 1 month = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 2 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 3 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 6 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 1 year = completely degraded and unsmokable

=== Smoking: ===

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

Whether DMT crystals are melted on it, or DMT-acetate goo is put on them doesn't matter, you create a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50), most of them should work relatively interchangeably with DMT-acetates because the crystals are usually melted into a goo before smoking anyway.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 1 ===
You'll need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)
 Dropper Bottle
 Hot Plate/Stovetop
 Copper Kitchen Scrubber
 Turkey baster/pipette (solvent-safe!)

First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick tomato soup.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Add 150ml or more xylene or d-Limonene for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent, this is normal.
Stir the solvent around all the bark-mush. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes.

Gently pour off the solvent (might need to filter it) into a separate solvent-safe container.

Add 2 shot-glasses of vinegar into the solvent and agitate it a few times over 40-50 minutes

Use a turkey baster/pipette to separate the vinegar at the bottom to a separate container then repeat one more time with fresh vinegar

Put the solvent back on the bark-mush. I recommend pouring it off and doing the vinegar step at 1 day and 2 days, early pulls will yield less.

Combine all the vinegar pulls you have and carefully evaporate them until they start turning red. (you can optionally filter it)

Look at the condensing step for a color reference for a good concentration. It is most likely going to be much less liquid than you expect as it is very potent.

Transfer the liquid to a dropper bottle. Now you have a liquid that can be measured by number of drops and when evaporated (with or without heat) leaves a red goo which is readily smokable DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Scrub up the DMT with the ball and it can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

----

== Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest ==

=== About Naphtha ===
 Naphtha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though its toxicity is quite benign. '''Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.''' The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naphtha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.

Plus 2 things: 1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple of hours. 2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.

Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.

If you are in the US then VM+P Naphtha is your choice. If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices. If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it: 1. Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs) 2. Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.

(What your product will could like if you follow the tek) [[Image:Spicee.jpg]]

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:'''
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the naphtha and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority of problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

 Two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naphtha won't dissolve/degrade) one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best) one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation one freezer 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH) Some Lime Ca(OH)2 100ml or more Naphtha one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)

Useful tools a few Playing cards one or more razor blades/scrapers Some coffee filters 

=== Preparation: ===
[[Image:Materials2.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I do not recommend skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Naphtha'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Naphtha: ===
 [[Image:Napthaandgoo.JPG]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear naphtha solvent floating on top

'''Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naphtha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted.'''

Caution: Naphtha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do all of the following in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Get a large bowl that your bark-mush container/bowl can easily fit in. Place your container/bowl inside the bottom bowl then add boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the container/bowl or as close to that as possible. This will warm the bark mush indirectly and safely.

'''Step 2:''' Once the bark mush has been thoroughly warmed (it does not need to be hot, just nicely warm), add 1ml naphtha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naphtha or more for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 3:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Stir the bark-mush around to contact the solvent with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Danger: Warm naphtha produces lots of expanding fumes, so you MUST vent it frequently whenever it is closed and if you are using something that may shatter, put on gloves and safety glasses. Also, low quality containers are very likely to leak.

When the bark-naphtha mush has been warmed, but is not too hot to handle, seal the container and roll the container around in your hands to mix it. Regularly open the container to vent the pressure from the warm naphtha. Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

For either the bowl or the container, mix well several times over 40-60 minutes,(I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

Place the container/bowl in the hot water when you’re not mixing. Feel the outside of the bowl/container with the bark-mush from time to time and if it is no longer warm then you can replace/add more boiling water in the bowl underneath.

'''Step 4:''' Clean and dry your precipitation container

I find it easiest to work with a small glass cake-baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals. You can use any naphtha-safe container though, the crystals sometimes float around in plastic containers, but not always.

'''Step 5:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container, DRY THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Once your solvent is in you precipication container, proceed to the next step. If you see some clear liquid (water) under your naphtha, this is not good for the next step. Add the solvent back to the bark and immediately do the seperation again more carefully.

Note: Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Precipitation/Crystallization: ===
 [[Image:Spices.JPG]]

The first pull of naphtha from 500g of MHRB after being in the freezer overnight

'''This step works on the principal that naphtha can dissolve DMT-freebase quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naphtha with DMT-freebase dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.'''

'''Step 1:''' Just pop your precipitation container straight into the freezer. If the naphtha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry this is normal. The naphtha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow, especially on the first pull.

Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but although naphtha smells pretty strong, it doesn't linger too long like d-limonene or xylene.

'''Step 3:''' Keep the naphtha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming. If the naphtha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT-freebase molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.

'''Step 4:''' Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take your precipitation container out of the freezer and very gently pour off the naphtha back into your bark-mush.
Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors) place to lean your precipitation container against, the few drops of excess naphtha will drip off and all of the naphtha surrounding the crystals will evaporate in a couple of hours. Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, however usually just SLOWLY pouring the naphtha off works fine. You may use a coffee filter to catch them if you prefer.

'''Once your container no longer smells like naphtha the DMT-freebase is ready! Scrape them up with a razor or a small spoon and put in a small sealable container or baggie for storage. Keep it in a COOL DRY PLACE because DMT crystals will simply melt on a hot day'''

'''Additional Naphtha Pulls:'''

As I mentioned before, there are recommended timings for pulling with naphtha, but they are planned so you don't need to use extra solvent.
My recommended proceedure is as follows:

Warm and Pull either immediately or at 6-8 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 24 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 48 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''The above 3 pulls should total 80-90% of the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Warm and Pull at 1 week after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 2-3 after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''All 5 pulls together should contain 95% or more than the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Final Notes on Extracting with Tek 2:

- The solvent and the crystals will usually be more yellow with each pull. You won't notice the difference when smoking yellow DMT vs white DMT though. Also, your DMT crystals will often turn more yellow over long periods of time.

- There may be a small film underneath the crystals. I am pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT which are both readily smokable and psychoactive like the white DMT crystals.

- You can do a re-crystallization for larger crystals (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Recrystallization)

- If the first 2 pulls don't cloud or precipitate crystals after 8-12 hours then check something in the extraction did not work correctly. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Common_issues.2FTroubleshooting Common issues/Troubleshooting] because that should not happen.

- Technically you can make a tincture from Tek 2 by salting the naphtha with vinegar or dissolving the crystals in vinegar. This will produce a beautiful amber-colored liquid that can be measured in 2-3 drops rather than with a scale. This is my prefered method, but I know everyone loves pretty crystals, so this might take some of the magic out of Tek 2 for many people.

=== Smoking: ===

[[Image:IMG 20200703 121449.jpg]]

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So I can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

You just gently put a single dose of your DMT crystals on the ball then warm it with a ligher until they have melted and coated the metal and you've created a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50)explore and find your favorite one.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 2 ===
You need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 Naphtha
 Freezer

In a bowl, mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of MHRB is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick porridge.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Use a bowl underneath containing hot water to warm your bark mush.
Add about 100ml naphtha for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush.
Stir the naphtha around all the bark. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes, making sure the bark mush is kept warm the whole time.

Wipe the bottom of your bowl dry, then gently pour off the naphtha into a container which will go in the freezer (optionally through a coffee filter to catch sediment). I use an 8 inch pyrex cake pan.
If the naphtha is at a low level in the container you may want to wrap it in saran wrap to prevent evaporation.

In a couple of hours the naphtha should get cloudy. Slowly over 8-12 hours the DMT will precipitate out of the naphtha and form crystals on the container.
When the naphtha is no longer cloudy then gently pour the naphtha off the crystals and back into your bark mush (you may use a coffee filter if you prefer).
Put the container on its side to allow the naphtha to evaporate. Keep it out of the sunlight because the crystals will melt into a goo at about 40C or so.

When the crystals no longer smell of naphtha they are ready to smoke or whatever. Keep in a dime bag or something. STORE IN A COOL DRY PLACE TO AVOID MELTING!

Your first pull will only contain a portion of the total DMT, I recommend warming the naphtha, seperating and crystallizing again at 1 day, 2 days, 1 week and 2-3 weeks. Each pull will yeild less DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Put a dose of DMT crystals gently on the ball, then slowly heat it until they have all melted into it. At that point the ball can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

== Common issues/Troubleshooting ==

The teks are pretty comprehensive, so as long as you follow the steps you can expect success.

There are 5 likely causes of no DMT or very small yields of DMT. Each of them has to do with the quality of your core extraction materials:

'''1. Your Lime is not Calcium Hydroxide'''

This will mean that the PH of your basified bark mush is not low enough to convert the DMT-acetate to DMT freebase. Adding lime and water to the mix may fix this, but it depends on what your previous "lime" was.

'''2. Your Solvent was not the D-limonene/Xylene/Naphtha that was mentioned in the Teks.'''

This will result in either no DMT being dissolved in the solvent, the solvent mixing with the bark, no precipitation of DMT, no salting of DMT or maybe something else.

If your solvent evaporates on glass without leaving reside, completely dry out your lime-bark-solvent outside until it is crumbly (DO NOT USE HEAT!) and then proceeding to pull with proper solvent.

If your solvent leaves a residue when evaporated on glass then it has additives in it and you risk significant health problems by doing anything further, just throw everything out and start again with fresh MHRB and proper solvent!

'''3. Your MHRB is not MHRB'''

This basically means you have no DMT to extract, so there is no solution to this issue other than getting yourself real MHRB

'''4: Your MHRB is not powdered'''

I have tried about 5x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and got a maximum of 5% the yield as powdered bark. If you have unused bark, you can try to powder it in a really strong blender, but most blenders can't powder MHRB. It might be better to just do a lye tek with your MHRB

'''5. Your vinegar is not 5% acetic acid'''

This will result in a successful, but 5x slower tek as it makes it a lime STB. You will have to wait much longer for the lime to work on the MHRB, but you just need patience and you'll get a full yield

 '''Good luck in all your life's endeavors! '''

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Limtek]]
[[Category:Acid/Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]

Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek

2020-07-19T23:20:46Z

Q21q21:

This tek is not Q21Q21's original idea but rather a culmination of many people's ideas. It is NOT perfect so if you can think of a better way to do ANY part of it then try it and PM me if it works! The tek is written in first person but they are Q21Q21's words.

(Q21Q21 being a fictional alien entity... with internet access)'''

 This tek was inspired by: '''Blueskine''' whose idea for freebasing acetates with heat changed my life! '''Noman''' whose tek on erowid inspired my first extraction '''69ron''' and his mescaline tek that taught me the power of lime '''amor_fati''' whose tek inspired me to try a vinegar step and made the tek over 10x faster '''SyZyGyPSy''' was the first person to report using limonene to extract spice '''Anyone whose post was read and forgot who posted it, you all helped.''' '''Lye''' which is so toxic and nasty.

_____________________
== Introduction ==

'''As a comprehensive guide there's lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.'''

'''If you would like to get right into the "What do I do?" then you can start by reading the Super-short Compressed Tek. (Then the full tek later)
'''
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_1 Tek 1 (Uses xylene/d-limonene)]
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_2 Tek 2 (Uses naphtha)]

== Background Information ==

=== The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark ===

While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis (abbreviated as MHRB)

[[image:MHRBthing.png]]

Mimosa Hostilis Plant, Whole Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark (MHRB), Shredded MHRB, Powdered MHRB

Mimosa Hostilis is a shrub that contains '''N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' and 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids (and some TINY amounts of NMT) in its root-bark . 

Discussions about suppliers of MHRB are no longer allowed on the DMT-Nexus, so it's best to do outside-Nexus searches for suppliers.

'''An extremely important note''' is that I have tried about 10x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and failed each time. Powdered MHRB is the only thing I'd recommend to buy as most blenders cannot powder MHRB properly.

=== Info about the 3 types of DMT contained in MHRB ===

Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information. '''Methods:''' [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Pharmahuasca Pharmahuasca], [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Guide_to_Mucosahuasca Mucosahuasca] or [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17873 Smoking]

''' White N-N-DMT'''
 
 [[Image:Crystals.JPG]] White DMT I extracted using Tek 2

'''White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' is pure DMT. MHRB usually contains about 1% of its weight in '''White DMT''', though yields from extractions of less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.

In the past the ultimate goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just '''White DMT''' in it. 

'''Red "Jungle" DMT'''

[[Image:SANY0069.JPG]] Thick dark red Jungle DMT extracted from by fully depleting the MHRB using naphtha, then pulling with xylene

"Jungle" DMT is also contained in the bark but cannot be extracted into crystals like '''White DMT'''

Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produces effects similar in duration and effects to '''White DMT'''. 
I strongly believe the yellow DMT which MANY people prefer to pure '''White DMT''' is in fact small amounts of Jungle DMT mixed with the '''White DMT.''' I think the cause of this is because Jungle DMT is ever so slightly soluble in naphtha.
An [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=156691 analysis] was done on this Jungle DMT and it is mostly (95%) DMT. Nonetheless I and many others still believe Jungle DMT produces noticeably different effects.

'''Yellow DMT-N-oxide'''

[[Image:SANY0050.JPG]] Crystallized DMT-N-oxide made with peroxide and white DMT

DMT-N-oxide was previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, but in fact Oxides seems unlikely to be present in the extracted DMT in significant amounts at all. (as I mentioned I believe that yellow is Jungle DMT)
 I and many others have smoked DMT which has been in ambient air for months/years without any significant loss of potency. 
Considering my tests (using the Oxides in the picture) suggest Oxides are about 1/3 or less potent than '''white DMT''' or jungle DMT when smoked (waiting on replication of this test to be positive though) then I conclude Oxides are insignificant and need not be worried about.

'''Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product'''

[[Image:Capture.PNG]]

Jimjam DMT I extracted using Tek 1 with d-limonene

If all the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum product called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during Tek 1.

Jimjam is considered by many to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though yields from extractions of more than 2% are not unheard of.

DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like Jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries - make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.

=== About the 2 teks ===
 [[Image:Suolvents.png]] 

Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naphtha they will be referred to as "the solvent"

In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used. '''Tek 2''' uses '''naphtha''' (lighter fluid) while
Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner but also used to dissolve HIPS 3D-printing supports)

(Vegetable oil can also apparently be used for Tek 1, you can search the Nexus for the many long threads talking about using it as a solvent)

'''Naphtha''' needs to be heated to dissolve or else it won't dissolve anything but its unique solubility properties allow for '''White DMT''' to be crystallized out when it is cooled in a freezer.
'''Tek 2''' thus involves a heating-step and a freezer-step that Tek 1 does not have. However, naphtha does not dissolve Jungle DMT very well so the extracted product will be almost entirely '''white DMT''' and leave the Jungle DMT in the MHRB.

d-limonene and xylene dissolve both '''white DMT''' and Jungle DMT at room temperate so Tek 1 doesn't need a heating step. Because of that it will yield full-spectrum product Jimjam DMT but since it is soluble, even when the solvent is cold, freezer precipitation doesn't work, so one of many different methods can be used to isolate the Jimjam DMT from the solvent.

Useful to know: If d-limonene is used, the tek will be

''<nowiki>*100% food-safe*</nowiki>'' 

Note:d-limonene still smells very strong and lingers in your house

'''For a first-timer [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Tek_2:_The_Fluffy_White_Funfest Tek 2] may be better advised than Tek 1 because it requires fewer steps and is well-suited for very small test batches like 30g-50g MHRB. I recommend Tek 1 for larger batches.

That being said, both teks are quite simple - comparable to baking a cake.'''

=== A little info on Lime ===
 [[Image:Lime.png]] 

'''The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is a replacement for lye which is very caustic and toxic.'''

lime is known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.

Until recently using caustic and toxic '''Sodium Hydroxide''' (lye, drain cleaner) was the only option as the base when extracting DMT. Lye is very potentially dangerous

These Teks instead use '''Lime'''. '''Lime''' is a powerful base that is actually food safe. It is powerfully alkaline so take care not to get it in your eyes or inhale it and wash your hands after touching it.

There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities. 

'''Here are some tips:'' Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums. So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores.

Local availability varies all the way from none to lots depending on country/location. If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.

If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally. Look on the internet for something and confirm that it is pure Ca(OH)2 before purchasing it from a reputable vendor.

If I haven't made this clear enough, let me end this section with a final clarification:
You MUST use proper lime for this tek to work! Make sure you do, good luck!

== Tek 1: The Jimjam party ==

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:''' 
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

Extraction Specific: 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH) 30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2) 125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark) Some Sealable and shakeable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel one Turkey baster or pipette(HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one Stove or Kettle one Pot or Pan

Useful tools one or more Funnels one Rice cooker one Baking pan/large surface area container one or more razor blades/scrapers one or two high quality mason jars 

Tincture tools one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml) one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses one spoon one lighter/candle/heat source

=== Preparation: ===
 [[Image:Materials.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I do not recommend skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent: ===
 [[Image:Dlime.jpg]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear d-limonene solvent floating on top

Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted '''''

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g) 

'''Step 2:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:''' mix with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:''' you can just roll the container around in your hands to mix it.

Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

Mix it well several times over 40-60 minutes. (I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

'''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY.'''

'''Step 3:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Note:Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Alternative Next-Steps ===
'''Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method.
There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB (Step 4)] by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead.

'''↓My preferred method is below↓'''

=== Salting with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:IMG_20200528_061727.jpg]]

Cloudy d-limonene floating on top of yellowish vinegar

'''''This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.'''''

Note 1: Xylene and D-Limonene are very leaky, most containers will eventually start leaking during the salting process. I recommend high quality mason jars that you’ve tested the lids to make sure the solvent doesn’t react with.

'''Step 1:''' Pour some vinegar into the sealable container with the solvent. About 2 shot glasses full.

'''Step 2:''' Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefer to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. Emulsions in this step always resolve pretty easily. No need to be careful.

Agitate the container 3-4 times over 40-60 minutes. The solvent will quickly start to get cloudy and the vinegar will gradually get more yellow.

You don’t have to wait until the solvent gets clear, it doesn’t seem to relate to the process being finished.

'''Step 3:''' Use a turkey baster/pipette to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container. As with the other liquid separations, 90% is okay.

Note 2: Try to get as little of the solvent during the separation as possible. This solvent will leave plant oils and other junk in your end product. That being said, a 1mm layer of solvent atop your vinegar is common using this method.

'''Step 4:'''
Repeat steps 1-3 once in exactly the same way, combine the separated vinegar pulls in a sealable container. Keep it safe because any spill will be a loss of lots of DMT!

For those that want DMT as soon as possible, proceed immediately on to the condensing step after Step 4.

'''Step 5:''' For those more patient/lazy, plan for your next non-polar solvent use.

'''The most efficient/least effort extraction:'''

'''Non-polar pull #1''' - 6-8 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #2''' - 24 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #3''' - 48 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the above 3 pulls should contain 80-90% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all of the vinegar from pulls 1-3 and proceed to the condensing step.

'''Non-polar pull #4''' - 1 week after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #5''' - 2-3 weeks after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the 5 pulls together should contain at least 95% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all the vinegar from pulls 4-5 and do another condensing.

=== Condensing/Tincture Making: ===
 [[Image:Condensing.jpg]]

The process of condensing vinegar from light yellow liquid to a dense red tincture (all pulls from 500g MHRB)

'''This step is just to concentrate the vinegar containing the DMT down to a dense liquid "tincture" which can easily measure dosages by number of drops.'''

The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all of your DMT maintaining a consistent concentration. This tincture will keep indefinitely, I have used the same for 3+ years with no loss of potency.

Note 1: You could technically evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smokeable product. But that would result in a goo which is very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air. I honestly wouldn't recommend it that method though.

'''There are many steps to do in the condensing, so I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar saltings into one because it makes your house smell very vinegary for a few hours and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times. Moreover, combining tinctures changes their concentrations, requiring re-measuring.'''

'''Step 1:''' Filter the vinegar through a cotton ball in a funnel, then add a bit of water to wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball and pour it all in a pot.

'''Step 2:''' Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 40-50ml

'''Step 3:''' Remove the pot from heat, then use a dropper to carefully filter the liquid through a cotton ball then wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball again with water

'''Step 4:''' Lower the heat to medium low and watch it carefully until it is around starts to become red in color.

Note 2: You can estimate the resulting liquid based on the amount of MHRB used. The combined vinegar from 3 solvent pulls will result in roughly 1tsp/5ml for every 100g MHRB used at 10mg/drop. Generally it's much less liquid than you expect, especially if you're used to dosing with crystals.

'''Step 5:''' As the liquid becomes redder and redder, '''before the liquid is all gone,''' remove the pot from heat, tip the pot to the side and use a dropper to transfer your tincture to a dropper bottle.

'''It is a delicate balance of not removing all liquid, but getting a good concentration. It is best to aim for a little less liquid than a little more for 2 reasons:

You’ll need to rinse the pot with a few mL of water to get all the DMT off, adding additional liquid to the tincture

Adding more liquid is extremely simple, while removing liquid means doing the condensing again.'''

'''A tincture can vary hugely based on a few factors. The color is a simple general indicator of the concentration. Here are pictures of 3 different concentration levels:'''

[[Image:Captude.PNG]]

5mg per drop

[[Image:Capturfde.PNG]]

10mg per drop

[[Image:Captufdare.PNG]]

15mg per drop

More concentration can be done, but tinctures will get thicker and thicker until they are a thick goo (at room temperature) of pure DMT at around 50mg per drop.

For those wanting a more formal measurement of the concentration, proceed on to next optional section.

=== Measuring the tincture: ===
 Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.

Quantitative Concentration (numerical):

- Drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster.

- Put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) '''NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!'''

- Once the liquid has dissolved and it smells strongly, but not of vinegar, turn off the element and let it sit until cool enough to handle.

During the cooling, measure the weight of a razor blade using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.

- Remove the coaster from the element then scrape up the goo with a razor and measured using the scale.

- Subtract the weight of the razor blade then divide the number by 10 and that is the concentration per drop.

- Label the tincture with the concentration.

Note: Don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change!

Qualitative Concentration (subjective): This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca - Use one of the methods from the next section to evaporate 1 drop of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. - If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 2 drops, then 3, 4, etc. until adequate effects are achieved. - Concentration will then be *number* drops = Mild *number* drops = Strong *number* drops = Breakthrough *number* drops = Too Strong!

- Label the tincture with the recommended drops for a dosage.

=== Evaporation and Smoking: ===
 [[Image:Evaporatinsssg.png]]

Preparing a dose using the slow method and smoking DMT off copper using a home-made glass pipe and home-made glass bong

'''''After evaporating all the liquid from some of the tincture you are left with nearly pure DMT acetate goo. DMT acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and decomposes into freebase DMT with heat, so it is readily smokable (and doesn't taste like vinegar)'''''

The Slow and Patient Method

Simply put a number of drops of tincture for a single dose of DMT on your smoking material and let it dry for a few hours before smoking.

'''Smoking materials:'''

Neutral Herb (Mullien, Peppermint)

Maoi Containing Herb (Caapi, Passionflower)

Pre-torched Ceramic Fiber Ball

Pre-Charred Copper Kitchen Scrubber Ball

Silicon Carbide Ceramic Foam

Caution: Vinegar on copper may result in smoking small amounts of copper acetate which is not good for you. I cannot formally recommend this method for long term health without more information/research

The Hot and Quick Method

Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!

'''1: On Glass - Stove/Oven Method'''

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a flat glass coaster (I got my from the dollar store and then removed the rubber feet and glue from the bottom)

- Put the glass onto an electric stove element or into an oven at AS LOW AS POSSIBLE (do not use a gas stovetop)

- After the liquid evaporated and it doesn’t smell of vinegar it is ready. Usually about 1-2 minutes or 5 for fewer drops

- You can either:

a: Scrape up the liquid with a razor blade and transfer it to any smoking material

b: Let the glass cool to the touch then scrape it up with some herb/copper mesh

Note: hot DMT-acetate goo is very liquidy and hard to scrape up, the closer to room temperature it is, the thicker and easier it will be to scrape up.

'''2: With a Spoon - Lighter/Candle Method'''

Note:As much as this method might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a spoon then heat it from below with a lighter or candle flame. Be careful not to heat too quickly or it will spatter and DMT some will be lost.

- Continue to heat until the liquid has all gone and you’re left with a thin red liquidy goo that smells strongly but not of vinegar. A hot spoon will rapidly evaporate excess liquid without a flame below, so you can stop heating slightly before the process is finished.

- Carefully scrape up the goo with some herb/copper mesh. It’s usually best to let it cool for at least 30s before doing so to avoid burning yourself and allowing the goo to cool and thicken.

'''A quick warning about stability.'''

You could make lots of doses ahead of time with the slow or quick method, but DMT-acetate seems somewhat unstable outside the tincture. I have some ongoing tests to assess the stability of DMT in this method. The only 2 data points I have so far are:

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment, 1 week = no potency loss.

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment, 1 month = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 2 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 3 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 6 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 1 year = completely degraded and unsmokable

=== Smoking: ===

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

Whether DMT crystals are melted on it, or DMT-acetate goo is put on them doesn't matter, you create a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50), most of them should work relatively interchangeably with DMT-acetates because the crystals are usually melted into a goo before smoking anyway.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 1 ===
You'll need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)
 Dropper Bottle
 Hot Plate/Stovetop
 Copper Kitchen Scrubber
 Turkey baster/pipette (solvent-safe!)

First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick tomato soup.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Add 150ml or more xylene or d-Limonene for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent, this is normal.
Stir the solvent around all the bark-mush. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes.

Gently pour off the solvent (might need to filter it) into a separate solvent-safe container.

Add 2 shot-glasses of vinegar into the solvent and agitate it a few times over 40-50 minutes

Use a turkey baster/pipette to separate the vinegar at the bottom to a separate container then repeat one more time with fresh vinegar

Put the solvent back on the bark-mush. I recommend pouring it off and doing the vinegar step at 1 day and 2 days, early pulls will yield less.

Combine all the vinegar pulls you have and carefully evaporate them until they start turning red. (you can optionally filter it)

Look at the condensing step for a color reference for a good concentration. It is most likely going to be much less liquid than you expect as it is very potent.

Transfer the liquid to a dropper bottle. Now you have a liquid that can be measured by number of drops and when evaporated (with or without heat) leaves a red goo which is readily smokable DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Scrub up the DMT with the ball and it can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

----

== Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest ==

=== About Naphtha ===
 Naphtha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though its toxicity is quite benign. '''Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.''' The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naphtha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.

Plus 2 things: 1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple of hours. 2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.

Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.

If you are in the US then VM+P Naphtha is your choice. If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices. If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it: 1. Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs) 2. Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.

(What your product will could like if you follow the tek) [[Image:Spicee.jpg]]

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:'''
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the naphtha and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority of problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

 Two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naphtha won't dissolve/degrade) one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best) one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation one freezer 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH) Some Lime Ca(OH)2 100ml or more Naphtha one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)

Useful tools a few Playing cards one or more razor blades/scrapers Some coffee filters 

=== Preparation: ===
[[Image:Materials2.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I do not recommend skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Naphtha'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Naphtha: ===
 [[Image:Napthaandgoo.JPG]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear naphtha solvent floating on top

'''Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naphtha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted.'''

Caution: Naphtha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do all of the following in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Get a large bowl that your bark-mush container/bowl can easily fit in. Place your container/bowl inside the bottom bowl then add boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the container/bowl or as close to that as possible. This will warm the bark mush indirectly and safely.

'''Step 2:''' Once the bark mush has been thoroughly warmed (it does not need to be hot, just nicely warm), add 1ml naphtha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naphtha or more for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 3:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Stir the bark-mush around to contact the solvent with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Danger: Warm naphtha produces lots of expanding fumes, so you MUST vent it frequently whenever it is closed and if you are using something that may shatter, put on gloves and safety glasses. Also, low quality containers are very likely to leak.

When the bark-naphtha mush has been warmed, but is not too hot to handle, seal the container and roll the container around in your hands to mix it. Regularly open the container to vent the pressure from the warm naphtha. Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

For either the bowl or the container, mix well several times over 40-60 minutes,(I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

Place the container/bowl in the hot water when you’re not mixing. Feel the outside of the bowl/container with the bark-mush from time to time and if it is no longer warm then you can replace/add more boiling water in the bowl underneath.

'''Step 4:''' Clean and dry your precipitation container

I find it easiest to work with a small glass cake-baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals. You can use any naphtha-safe container though, the crystals sometimes float around in plastic containers, but not always.

'''Step 5:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container, DRY THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Once your solvent is in you precipication container, proceed to the next step. If you see some clear liquid (water) under your naphtha, this is not good for the next step. Add the solvent back to the bark and immediately do the seperation again more carefully.

Note: Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Precipitation/Crystallization: ===
 [[Image:Spices.JPG]]

The first pull of naphtha from 500g of MHRB after being in the freezer overnight

'''This step works on the principal that naphtha can dissolve DMT-freebase quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naphtha with DMT-freebase dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.'''

'''Step 1:''' Just pop your precipitation container straight into the freezer. If the naphtha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry this is normal. The naphtha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow, especially on the first pull.

Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but although naphtha smells pretty strong, it doesn't linger too long like d-limonene or xylene.

'''Step 3:''' Keep the naphtha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming. If the naphtha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT-freebase molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.

'''Step 4:''' Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take your precipitation container out of the freezer and very gently pour off the naphtha back into your bark-mush.
Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors) place to lean your precipitation container against, the few drops of excess naphtha will drip off and all of the naphtha surrounding the crystals will evaporate in a couple of hours. Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, however usually just SLOWLY pouring the naphtha off works fine. You may use a coffee filter to catch them if you prefer.

'''Once your container no longer smells like naphtha the DMT-freebase is ready! Scrape them up with a razor or a small spoon and put in a small sealable container or baggie for storage. Keep it in a COOL DRY PLACE because DMT crystals will simply melt on a hot day'''

'''Additional Naphtha Pulls:'''

As I mentioned before, there are recommended timings for pulling with naphtha, but they are planned so you don't need to use extra solvent.
My recommended proceedure is as follows:

Warm and Pull either immediately or at 6-8 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 24 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 48 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''The above 3 pulls should total 80-90% of the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Warm and Pull at 1 week after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 2-3 after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''All 5 pulls together should contain 95% or more than the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Final Notes on Extracting with Tek 2:

- The solvent and the crystals will usually be more yellow with each pull. You won't notice the difference when smoking yellow DMT vs white DMT though. Also, your DMT crystals will often turn more yellow over long periods of time.

- There may be a small film underneath the crystals. I am pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT which are both readily smokable and psychoactive like the white DMT crystals.

- You can do a re-crystallization for larger crystals (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Recrystallization)

- If the first 2 pulls don't cloud or precipitate crystals after 8-12 hours then check something in the extraction did not work correctly. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Common_issues.2FTroubleshooting Common issues/Troubleshooting] because that should not happen.

- Technically you can make a tincture from Tek 2 by salting the naphtha with vinegar or dissolving the crystals in vinegar. This will produce a beautiful amber-colored liquid that can be measured in 2-3 drops rather than with a scale. This is my prefered method, but I know everyone loves pretty crystals, so this might take some of the magic out of Tek 2 for many people.

=== Smoking: ===

[[Image:IMG 20200703 121449.jpg]]

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So I can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

You just gently put a single dose of your DMT crystals on the ball then warm it with a ligher until they have melted and coated the metal and you've created a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50)explore and find your favorite one.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 2 ===
You need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 Naphtha
 Freezer

In a bowl, mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of MHRB is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick porridge.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Use a bowl underneath containing hot water to warm your bark mush.
Add about 100ml naphtha for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush.
Stir the naphtha around all the bark. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes, making sure the bark mush is kept warm the whole time.

Wipe the bottom of your bowl dry, then gently pour off the naphtha into a container which will go in the freezer (optionally through a coffee filter to catch sediment). I use an 8 inch pyrex cake pan.
If the naphtha is at a low level in the container you may want to wrap it in saran wrap to prevent evaporation.

In a couple of hours the naphtha should get cloudy. Slowly over 8-12 hours the DMT will precipitate out of the naphtha and form crystals on the container.
When the naphtha is no longer cloudy then gently pour the naphtha off the crystals and back into your bark mush (you may use a coffee filter if you prefer).
Put the container on its side to allow the naphtha to evaporate. Keep it out of the sunlight because the crystals will melt into a goo at about 40C or so.

When the crystals no longer smell of naphtha they are ready to smoke or whatever. Keep in a dime bag or something. STORE IN A COOL DRY PLACE TO AVOID MELTING!

Your first pull will only contain a portion of the total DMT, I recommend warming the naphtha, seperating and crystallizing again at 1 day, 2 days, 1 week and 2-3 weeks. Each pull will yeild less DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Put a dose of DMT crystals gently on the ball, then slowly heat it until they have all melted into it. At that point the ball can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

== Common issues/Troubleshooting ==

The teks are pretty comprehensive, so as long as you follow the steps you can expect success.

There are 5 likely causes of no DMT or very small yields of DMT. Each of them has to do with the quality of your core extraction materials:

'''1. Your Lime is not Calcium Hydroxide'''

This will mean that the PH of your basified bark mush is not low enough to convert the DMT-acetate to DMT freebase. Adding lime and water to the mix may fix this, but it depends on what your previous "lime" was.

'''2. Your Solvent was not the D-limonene/Xylene/Naphtha that was mentioned in the Teks.'''

This will result in either no DMT being dissolved in the solvent, the solvent mixing with the bark, no precipitation of DMT, no salting of DMT or maybe something else. Most of these will result in unsalvageable Teks, so I hope you don't have this issue.

'''3. Your MHRB is not MHRB'''

This basically means you have no DMT to extract, so there is no solution to this issue other than getting yourself real MHRB

'''4: Your MHRB is not powdered'''

I have tried about 5x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and got a maximum of 5% the yield as powdered bark. If you have unused bark, you can try to powder it in a really strong blender, but most blenders can't powder MHRB. It might be better to just do a lye tek with your MHRB

'''5. Your vinegar is not 5% acetic acid'''

This will result in a successful, but 5x slower tek as it makes it a lime STB. You will have to wait much longer for the lime to work on the MHRB, but you just need patience and you'll get a full yield

 '''Good luck in all your life's endeavors! '''

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Limtek]]
[[Category:Acid/Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]

Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek

2020-07-19T23:04:36Z

Q21q21:

This tek is not Q21Q21's original idea but rather a culmination of many people's ideas. It is NOT perfect so if you can think of a better way to do ANY part of it then try it and PM me if it works! The tek is written in first person but they are Q21Q21's words.

(Q21Q21 being a fictional alien entity... with internet access)'''

 This tek was inspired by: '''Blueskine''' whose idea for freebasing acetates with heat changed my life! '''Noman''' whose tek on erowid inspired my first extraction '''69ron''' and his mescaline tek that taught me the power of lime '''amor_fati''' whose tek inspired me to try a vinegar step and made the tek over 10x faster '''SyZyGyPSy''' was the first person to report using limonene to extract spice '''Anyone whose post was read and forgot who posted it, you all helped.''' '''Lye''' which is so toxic and nasty.

_____________________
== Introduction ==

'''As a comprehensive guide there's lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.'''

'''If you would like to get right into the "What do I do?" then you can start by reading the Super-short Compressed Tek. (Then the full tek later)
'''
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_1 Tek 1 (Uses xylene/d-limonene)]
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_2 Tek 2 (Uses naphtha)]

== Background Information ==

=== The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark ===

While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis (abbreviated as MHRB)

[[image:MHRBthing.png]]

Mimosa Hostilis Plant, Whole Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark (MHRB), Shredded MHRB, Powdered MHRB

Mimosa Hostilis is a shrub that contains '''N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' and 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids (and some TINY amounts of NMT) in its root-bark . 

Discussions about suppliers of MHRB are no longer allowed on the DMT-Nexus, so it's best to do outside-Nexus searches for suppliers.

'''An extremely important note''' is that I have tried about 10x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and failed each time. Powdered MHRB is the only thing I'd recommend to buy as most blenders cannot powder MHRB properly.

=== Info about the 3 types of DMT contained in MHRB ===

Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information. '''Methods:''' [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Pharmahuasca Pharmahuasca], [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Guide_to_Mucosahuasca Mucosahuasca] or [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17873 Smoking]

''' White N-N-DMT'''
 
 [[Image:Crystals.JPG]] White DMT I extracted using Tek 2

'''White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' is pure DMT. MHRB usually contains about 1% of its weight in '''White DMT''', though yields from extractions of less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.

In the past the ultimate goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just '''White DMT''' in it. 

'''Red "Jungle" DMT'''

[[Image:SANY0069.JPG]] Thick dark red Jungle DMT extracted from by fully depleting the MHRB using naphtha, then pulling with xylene

"Jungle" DMT is also contained in the bark but cannot be extracted into crystals like '''White DMT'''

Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produces effects similar in duration and effects to '''White DMT'''. 
I strongly believe the yellow DMT which MANY people prefer to pure '''White DMT''' is in fact small amounts of Jungle DMT mixed with the '''White DMT.''' I think the cause of this is because Jungle DMT is ever so slightly soluble in naphtha.
An [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=156691 analysis] was done on this Jungle DMT and it is mostly (95%) DMT. Nonetheless I and many others still believe Jungle DMT produces noticeably different effects.

'''Yellow DMT-N-oxide'''

[[Image:SANY0050.JPG]] Crystallized DMT-N-oxide made with peroxide and white DMT

DMT-N-oxide was previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, but in fact Oxides seems unlikely to be present in the extracted DMT in significant amounts at all. (as I mentioned I believe that yellow is Jungle DMT)
 I and many others have smoked DMT which has been in ambient air for months/years without any significant loss of potency. 
Considering my tests (using the Oxides in the picture) suggest Oxides are about 1/3 or less potent than '''white DMT''' or jungle DMT when smoked (waiting on replication of this test to be positive though) then I conclude Oxides are insignificant and need not be worried about.

'''Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product'''

[[Image:Capture.PNG]]

Jimjam DMT I extracted using Tek 1 with d-limonene

If all the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum product called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during Tek 1.

Jimjam is considered by many to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though yields from extractions of more than 2% are not unheard of.

DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like Jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries - make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.

=== About the 2 teks ===
 [[Image:Suolvents.png]] 

Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naphtha they will be referred to as "the solvent"

In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used. '''Tek 2''' uses '''naphtha''' (lighter fluid) while
Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner but also used to dissolve HIPS 3D-printing supports)

(Vegetable oil can also apparently be used for Tek 1, you can search the Nexus for the many long threads talking about using it as a solvent)

'''Naphtha''' needs to be heated to dissolve or else it won't dissolve anything but its unique solubility properties allow for '''White DMT''' to be crystallized out when it is cooled in a freezer.
'''Tek 2''' thus involves a heating-step and a freezer-step that Tek 1 does not have. However, naphtha does not dissolve Jungle DMT very well so the extracted product will be almost entirely '''white DMT''' and leave the Jungle DMT in the MHRB.

d-limonene and xylene dissolve both '''white DMT''' and Jungle DMT at room temperate so Tek 1 doesn't need a heating step. Because of that it will yield full-spectrum product Jimjam DMT but since it is soluble, even when the solvent is cold, freezer precipitation doesn't work, so one of many different methods can be used to isolate the Jimjam DMT from the solvent.

Useful to know: If d-limonene is used, the tek will be

''<nowiki>*100% food-safe*</nowiki>'' 

Note:d-limonene still smells very strong and lingers in your house

'''For a first-timer [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Tek_2:_The_Fluffy_White_Funfest Tek 2] may be better advised than Tek 1 because it requires fewer steps and is well-suited for very small test batches like 30g-50g MHRB. I recommend Tek 1 for larger batches.

That being said, both teks are quite simple - comparable to baking a cake.'''

=== A little info on Lime ===
 [[Image:Lime.png]] 

'''The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is a replacement for lye which is very caustic and toxic.'''

lime is known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.

Until recently using caustic and toxic '''Sodium Hydroxide''' (lye, drain cleaner) was the only option as the base when extracting DMT. Lye is very potentially dangerous

These Teks instead use '''Lime'''. '''Lime''' is a powerful base that is actually food safe. It is powerfully alkaline so take care not to get it in your eyes or inhale it and wash your hands after touching it.

There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities. 

'''Here are some tips:'' Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums. So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores.

Local availability varies all the way from none to lots depending on country/location. If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.

If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally. Look on the internet for something and confirm that it is pure Ca(OH)2 before purchasing it from a reputable vendor.

If I haven't made this clear enough, let me end this section with a final clarification:
You MUST use proper lime for this tek to work! Make sure you do, good luck!

== Tek 1: The Jimjam party ==

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:''' 
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

Extraction Specific: 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH) 30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2) 125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark) Some Sealable and shakeable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel one Turkey baster or pipette(HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one Stove or Kettle one Pot or Pan

Useful tools one or more Funnels one Rice cooker one Baking pan/large surface area container one or more razor blades/scrapers one or two high quality mason jars 

Tincture tools one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml) one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses one spoon one lighter/candle/heat source

=== Preparation: ===
 [[Image:Materials.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I do not recommend skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent: ===
 [[Image:Dlime.jpg]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear d-limonene solvent floating on top

Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted '''''

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g) 

'''Step 2:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:''' mix with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:''' you can just roll the container around in your hands to mix it.

Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

Mix it well several times over 40-60 minutes. (I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

'''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY.'''

'''Step 3:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Note:Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Alternative Next-Steps ===
'''Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method.
There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB (Step 4)] by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead.

'''↓My preferred method is below↓'''

=== Salting with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:IMG_20200528_061727.jpg]]

Cloudy d-limonene floating on top of yellowish vinegar

'''''This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.'''''

Note 1: Xylene and D-Limonene are very leaky, most containers will eventually start leaking during the salting process. I recommend high quality mason jars that you’ve tested the lids to make sure the solvent doesn’t react with.

'''Step 1:''' Pour some vinegar into the sealable container with the solvent. About 2 shot glasses full.

'''Step 2:''' Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefer to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. Emulsions in this step always resolve pretty easily. No need to be careful.

Agitate the container 3-4 times over 40-60 minutes. The solvent will quickly start to get cloudy and the vinegar will gradually get more yellow.

You don’t have to wait until the solvent gets clear, it doesn’t seem to relate to the process being finished.

'''Step 3:''' Use a turkey baster/pipette to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container. As with the other liquid separations, 90% is okay.

Note 2: Try to get as little of the solvent during the separation as possible. This solvent will leave plant oils and other junk in your end product. That being said, a 1mm layer of solvent atop your vinegar is common using this method.

'''Step 4:'''
Repeat steps 1-3 once in exactly the same way, combine the separated vinegar pulls in a sealable container. Keep it safe because any spill will be a loss of lots of DMT!

For those that want DMT as soon as possible, proceed immediately on to the condensing step after Step 4.

'''Step 5:''' For those more patient/lazy, plan for your next non-polar solvent use.

'''The most efficient/least effort extraction:'''

'''Non-polar pull #1''' - 6-8 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #2''' - 24 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #3''' - 48 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the above 3 pulls should contain 80-90% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all of the vinegar from pulls 1-3 and proceed to the condensing step.

'''Non-polar pull #4''' - 1 week after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #5''' - 2-3 weeks after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the 5 pulls together should contain at least 95% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all the vinegar from pulls 4-5 and do another condensing.

=== Condensing/Tincture Making: ===
 [[Image:Condensing.jpg]]

The process of condensing vinegar from light yellow liquid to a dense red tincture (all pulls from 500g MHRB)

'''This step is just to concentrate the vinegar containing the DMT down to a dense liquid "tincture" which can easily measure dosages by number of drops.'''

The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all of your DMT maintaining a consistent concentration. This tincture will keep indefinitely, I have used the same for 3+ years with no loss of potency.

Note 1: You could technically evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smokeable product. But that would result in a goo which is very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air. I honestly wouldn't recommend it that method though.

'''There are many steps to do in the condensing, so I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar saltings into one because it makes your house smell very vinegary for a few hours and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times. Moreover, combining tinctures changes their concentrations, requiring re-measuring.'''

'''Step 1:''' Filter the vinegar through a cotton ball in a funnel, then add a bit of water to wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball and pour it all in a pot.

'''Step 2:''' Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 40-50ml

'''Step 3:''' Remove the pot from heat, then use a dropper to carefully filter the liquid through a cotton ball then wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball again with water

'''Step 4:''' Lower the heat to medium low and watch it carefully until it is around starts to become red in color.

Note 2: You can estimate the resulting liquid based on the amount of MHRB used. The combined vinegar from 3 solvent pulls will result in roughly 1tsp/5ml for every 100g MHRB used at 10mg/drop. Generally it's much less liquid than you expect, especially if you're used to dosing with crystals.

'''Step 5:''' As the liquid becomes redder and redder, '''before the liquid is all gone,''' remove the pot from heat, tip the pot to the side and use a dropper to transfer your tincture to a dropper bottle.

'''It is a delicate balance of not removing all liquid, but getting a good concentration. It is best to aim for a little less liquid than a little more for 2 reasons:

You’ll need to rinse the pot with a few mL of water to get all the DMT off, adding additional liquid to the tincture

Adding more liquid is extremely simple, while removing liquid means doing the condensing again.'''

'''A tincture can vary hugely based on a few factors. The color is a simple general indicator of the concentration. Here are pictures of 3 different concentration levels:'''

[[Image:Captude.PNG]]

5mg per drop

[[Image:Capturfde.PNG]]

10mg per drop

[[Image:Captufdare.PNG]]

15mg per drop

More concentration can be done, but tinctures will get thicker and thicker until they are a thick goo (at room temperature) of pure DMT at around 50mg per drop.

For those wanting a more formal measurement of the concentration, proceed on to next optional section.

=== Measuring the tincture: ===
 Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.

Quantitative Concentration (numerical):

- Drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster.

- Put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) '''NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!'''

- Once the liquid has dissolved and it smells strongly, but not of vinegar, turn off the element and let it sit until cool enough to handle.

During the cooling, measure the weight of a razor blade using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.

- Remove the coaster from the element then scrape up the goo with a razor and measured using the scale.

- Subtract the weight of the razor blade then divide the number by 10 and that is the concentration per drop.

- Label the tincture with the concentration.

Note: Don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change!

Qualitative Concentration (subjective): This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca - Use one of the methods from the next section to evaporate 1 drop of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. - If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 2 drops, then 3, 4, etc. until adequate effects are achieved. - Concentration will then be *number* drops = Mild *number* drops = Strong *number* drops = Breakthrough *number* drops = Too Strong!

- Label the tincture with the recommended drops for a dosage.

=== Evaporation and Smoking: ===
 [[Image:Evaporatinsssg.png]]

Preparing a dose using the slow method and smoking DMT off copper using a home-made glass pipe and home-made glass bong

'''''After evaporating all the liquid from some of the tincture you are left with nearly pure DMT acetate goo. DMT acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and decomposes into freebase DMT with heat, so it is readily smokable (and doesn't taste like vinegar)'''''

The Slow and Patient Method

Simply put a number of drops of tincture for a single dose of DMT on your smoking material and let it dry for a few hours before smoking.

'''Smoking materials:'''

Neutral Herb (Mullien, Peppermint)

Maoi Containing Herb (Caapi, Passionflower)

Pre-torched Ceramic Fiber Ball

Pre-Charred Copper Kitchen Scrubber Ball

Silicon Carbide Ceramic Foam

Caution: Vinegar on copper may result in smoking small amounts of copper acetate which is not good for you. I cannot formally recommend this method for long term health without more information/research

The Hot and Quick Method

Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!

'''1: On Glass - Stove/Oven Method'''

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a flat glass coaster (I got my from the dollar store and then removed the rubber feet and glue from the bottom)

- Put the glass onto an electric stove element or into an oven at AS LOW AS POSSIBLE (do not use a gas stovetop)

- After the liquid evaporated and it doesn’t smell of vinegar it is ready. Usually about 1-2 minutes or 5 for fewer drops

- You can either:

a: Scrape up the liquid with a razor blade and transfer it to any smoking material

b: Let the glass cool to the touch then scrape it up with some herb/copper mesh

Note: hot DMT-acetate goo is very liquidy and hard to scrape up, the closer to room temperature it is, the thicker and easier it will be to scrape up.

'''2: With a Spoon - Lighter/Candle Method'''

Note:As much as this method might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a spoon then heat it from below with a lighter or candle flame. Be careful not to heat too quickly or it will spatter and DMT some will be lost.

- Continue to heat until the liquid has all gone and you’re left with a thin red liquidy goo that smells strongly but not of vinegar. A hot spoon will rapidly evaporate excess liquid without a flame below, so you can stop heating slightly before the process is finished.

- Carefully scrape up the goo with some herb/copper mesh. It’s usually best to let it cool for at least 30s before doing so to avoid burning yourself and allowing the goo to cool and thicken.

'''A quick warning about stability.'''

You could make lots of doses ahead of time with the slow or quick method, but DMT-acetate seems somewhat unstable outside the tincture. I have some ongoing tests to assess the stability of DMT in this method. The only 2 data points I have so far are:

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment, 1 week = no potency loss.

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment, 1 month = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 2 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 3 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 6 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 1 year = completely degraded and unsmokable

=== Smoking: ===

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

Whether DMT crystals are melted on it, or DMT-acetate goo is put on them doesn't matter, you create a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50), most of them should work relatively interchangeably with DMT-acetates because the crystals are usually melted into a goo before smoking anyway.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 1 ===
You'll need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)
 Dropper Bottle
 Hot Plate/Stovetop
 Copper Kitchen Scrubber
 Turkey baster/pipette (solvent-safe!)

First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick tomato soup.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Add 150ml or more xylene or d-Limonene for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent, this is normal.
Stir the solvent around all the bark-mush. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes.

Gently pour off the solvent (might need to filter it) into a separate solvent-safe container.

Add 2 shot-glasses of vinegar into the solvent and agitate it a few times over 40-50 minutes

Use a turkey baster/pipette to separate the vinegar at the bottom to a separate container then repeat one more time with fresh vinegar

Put the solvent back on the bark-mush. I recommend pouring it off and doing the vinegar step at 1 day and 2 days, early pulls will yield less.

Combine all the vinegar pulls you have and carefully evaporate them until they start turning red. (you can optionally filter it)

Look at the condensing step for a color reference for a good concentration. It is most likely going to be much less liquid than you expect as it is very potent.

Transfer the liquid to a dropper bottle. Now you have a liquid that can be measured by number of drops and when evaporated (with or without heat) leaves a red goo which is readily smokable DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Scrub up the DMT with the ball and it can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

----

== Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest ==

=== About Naphtha ===
 Naphtha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though its toxicity is quite benign. '''Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.''' The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naphtha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.

Plus 2 things: 1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple of hours. 2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.

Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.

If you are in the US then VM+P Naphtha is your choice. If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices. If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it: 1. Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs) 2. Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.

(What your product will could like if you follow the tek) [[Image:Spicee.jpg]]

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:'''
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the naphtha and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority of problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

 Two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naphtha won't dissolve/degrade) one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best) one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation one freezer 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH) Some Lime Ca(OH)2 100ml or more Naphtha one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)

Useful tools a few Playing cards one or more razor blades/scrapers Some coffee filters 

=== Preparation: ===
[[Image:Materials2.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I do not recommend skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Naphtha'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Naphtha: ===
 [[Image:Napthaandgoo.JPG]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear naphtha solvent floating on top

'''Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naphtha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted.'''

Caution: Naphtha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do all of the following in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Get a large bowl that your bark-mush container/bowl can easily fit in. Place your container/bowl inside the bottom bowl then add boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the container/bowl or as close to that as possible. This will warm the bark mush indirectly and safely.

'''Step 2:''' Once the bark mush has been thoroughly warmed (it does not need to be hot, just nicely warm), add 1ml naphtha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naphtha or more for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 3:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Stir the bark-mush around to contact the solvent with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Danger: Warm naphtha produces lots of expanding fumes, so you MUST vent it frequently whenever it is closed and if you are using something that may shatter, put on gloves and safety glasses.

When the bark-naphtha mush has been warmed, but is not too hot to handle, seal the container and roll the container around in your hands to mix it. Regularly open the container to vent the pressure from the warm naphtha. Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

For either the bowl or the container, mix well several times over 40-60 minutes,(I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

Place the container/bowl in the hot water when you’re not mixing. Feel the outside of the bowl/container with the bark-mush from time to time and if it is no longer warm then you can replace/add more boiling water in the bowl underneath.

'''Step 4:''' Clean and dry your precipitation container

I find it easiest to work with a small glass cake-baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals. You can use any naphtha-safe container though, the crystals sometimes float around in plastic containers, but not always.

'''Step 5:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container, DRY THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Once your solvent is in you precipication container, proceed to the next step. If you see some clear liquid (water) under your naphtha, this is not good for the next step. Add the solvent back to the bark and immediately do the seperation again more carefully.

Note: Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Precipitation/Crystallization: ===
 [[Image:Spices.JPG]]

The first pull of naphtha from 500g of MHRB after being in the freezer overnight

'''This step works on the principal that naphtha can dissolve DMT-freebase quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naphtha with DMT-freebase dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.'''

'''Step 1:''' Just pop your precipitation container straight into the freezer. If the naphtha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry this is normal. The naphtha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow, especially on the first pull.

Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but although naphtha smells pretty strong, it doesn't linger too long like d-limonene or xylene.

'''Step 3:''' Keep the naphtha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming. If the naphtha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT-freebase molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.

'''Step 4:''' Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take your precipitation container out of the freezer and very gently pour off the naphtha back into your bark-mush.
Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors) place to lean your precipitation container against, the few drops of excess naphtha will drip off and all of the naphtha surrounding the crystals will evaporate in a couple of hours. Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, however usually just SLOWLY pouring the naphtha off works fine. You may use a coffee filter to catch them if you prefer.

'''Once your container no longer smells like naphtha the DMT-freebase is ready! Scrape them up with a razor or a small spoon and put in a small sealable container or baggie for storage. Keep it in a COOL DRY PLACE because DMT crystals will simply melt on a hot day'''

'''Additional Naphtha Pulls:'''

As I mentioned before, there are recommended timings for pulling with naphtha, but they are planned so you don't need to use extra solvent.
My recommended proceedure is as follows:

Warm and Pull either immediately or at 6-8 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 24 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 48 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''The above 3 pulls should total 80-90% of the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Warm and Pull at 1 week after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 2-3 after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''All 5 pulls together should contain 95% or more than the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Final Notes on Extracting with Tek 2:

- The solvent and the crystals will usually be more yellow with each pull. You won't notice the difference when smoking yellow DMT vs white DMT though. Also, your DMT crystals will often turn more yellow over long periods of time.

- There may be a small film underneath the crystals. I am pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT which are both readily smokable and psychoactive like the white DMT crystals.

- You can do a re-crystallization for larger crystals (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Recrystallization)

- If the first 2 pulls don't cloud or precipitate crystals after 8-12 hours then check something in the extraction did not work correctly. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Common_issues.2FTroubleshooting Common issues/Troubleshooting] because that should not happen.

- Technically you can make a tincture from Tek 2 by salting the naphtha with vinegar or dissolving the crystals in vinegar. This will produce a beautiful amber-colored liquid that can be measured in 2-3 drops rather than with a scale. This is my prefered method, but I know everyone loves pretty crystals, so this might take some of the magic out of Tek 2 for many people.

=== Smoking: ===

[[Image:IMG 20200703 121449.jpg]]

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So I can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

You just gently put a single dose of your DMT crystals on the ball then warm it with a ligher until they have melted and coated the metal and you've created a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50)explore and find your favorite one.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 2 ===
You need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 Naphtha
 Freezer

In a bowl, mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of MHRB is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick porridge.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Use a bowl underneath containing hot water to warm your bark mush.
Add about 100ml naphtha for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush.
Stir the naphtha around all the bark. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes, making sure the bark mush is kept warm the whole time.

Wipe the bottom of your bowl dry, then gently pour off the naphtha into a container which will go in the freezer (optionally through a coffee filter to catch sediment). I use an 8 inch pyrex cake pan.
If the naphtha is at a low level in the container you may want to wrap it in saran wrap to prevent evaporation.

In a couple of hours the naphtha should get cloudy. Slowly over 8-12 hours the DMT will precipitate out of the naphtha and form crystals on the container.
When the naphtha is no longer cloudy then gently pour the naphtha off the crystals and back into your bark mush (you may use a coffee filter if you prefer).
Put the container on its side to allow the naphtha to evaporate. Keep it out of the sunlight because the crystals will melt into a goo at about 40C or so.

When the crystals no longer smell of naphtha they are ready to smoke or whatever. Keep in a dime bag or something. STORE IN A COOL DRY PLACE TO AVOID MELTING!

Your first pull will only contain a portion of the total DMT, I recommend warming the naphtha, seperating and crystallizing again at 1 day, 2 days, 1 week and 2-3 weeks. Each pull will yeild less DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Put a dose of DMT crystals gently on the ball, then slowly heat it until they have all melted into it. At that point the ball can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

== Common issues/Troubleshooting ==

The teks are pretty comprehensive, so as long as you follow the steps you can expect success.

There are 5 likely causes of no DMT or very small yields of DMT. Each of them has to do with the quality of your core extraction materials:

'''1. Your Lime is not Calcium Hydroxide'''

This will mean that the PH of your basified bark mush is not low enough to convert the DMT-acetate to DMT freebase. Adding lime and water to the mix may fix this, but it depends on what your previous "lime" was.

'''2. Your Solvent was not the D-limonene/Xylene/Naphtha that was mentioned in the Teks.'''

This will result in either no DMT being dissolved in the solvent, the solvent mixing with the bark, no precipitation of DMT, no salting of DMT or maybe something else. Most of these will result in unsalvageable Teks, so I hope you don't have this issue.

'''3. Your MHRB is not MHRB'''

This basically means you have no DMT to extract, so there is no solution to this issue other than getting yourself real MHRB

'''4: Your MHRB is not powdered'''

I have tried about 5x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and got a maximum of 5% the yield as powdered bark. If you have unused bark, you can try to powder it in a really strong blender, but most blenders can't powder MHRB. It might be better to just do a lye tek with your MHRB

'''5. Your vinegar is not 5% acetic acid'''

This will result in a successful, but 5x slower tek as it makes it a lime STB. You will have to wait much longer for the lime to work on the MHRB, but you just need patience and you'll get a full yield

 '''Good luck in all your life's endeavors! '''

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Limtek]]
[[Category:Acid/Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]

Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek

2020-07-19T23:01:10Z

Q21q21:

This tek is not Q21Q21's original idea but rather a culmination of many people's ideas. It is NOT perfect so if you can think of a better way to do ANY part of it then try it and PM me if it works! The tek is written in first person but they are Q21Q21's words.

(Q21Q21 being a fictional alien entity... with internet access)'''

 This tek was inspired by: '''Blueskine''' whose idea for freebasing acetates with heat changed my life! '''Noman''' whose tek on erowid inspired my first extraction '''69ron''' and his mescaline tek that taught me the power of lime '''amor_fati''' whose tek inspired me to try a vinegar step and made the tek over 10x faster '''SyZyGyPSy''' was the first person to report using limonene to extract spice '''Anyone whose post was read and forgot who posted it, you all helped.''' '''Lye''' which is so toxic and nasty.

_____________________
== Introduction ==

'''As a comprehensive guide there's lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.'''

'''If you would like to get right into the "What do I do?" then you can start by reading the Super-short Compressed Tek. (Then the full tek later)
'''
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_1 Tek 1 (Uses xylene/d-limonene)]
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_2 Tek 2 (Uses naphtha)]

== Background Information ==

=== The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark ===

While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis (abbreviated as MHRB)

[[image:MHRBthing.png]]

Mimosa Hostilis Plant, Whole Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark (MHRB), Shredded MHRB, Powdered MHRB

Mimosa Hostilis is a shrub that contains '''N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' and 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids (and some TINY amounts of NMT) in its root-bark . 

Discussions about suppliers of MHRB are no longer allowed on the DMT-Nexus, so it's best to do outside-Nexus searches for suppliers.

'''An extremely important note''' is that I have tried about 10x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and failed each time. Powdered MHRB is the only thing I'd recommend to buy as most blenders cannot powder MHRB properly.

=== Info about the 3 types of DMT contained in MHRB ===

Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information. '''Methods:''' [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Pharmahuasca Pharmahuasca], [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Guide_to_Mucosahuasca Mucosahuasca] or [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17873 Smoking]

''' White N-N-DMT'''
 
 [[Image:Crystals.JPG]] White DMT I extracted using Tek 2

'''White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' is pure DMT. MHRB usually contains about 1% of its weight in '''White DMT''', though yields from extractions of less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.

In the past the ultimate goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just '''White DMT''' in it. 

'''Red "Jungle" DMT'''

[[Image:SANY0069.JPG]] Thick dark red Jungle DMT extracted from by fully depleting the MHRB using naphtha, then pulling with xylene

"Jungle" DMT is also contained in the bark but cannot be extracted into crystals like '''White DMT'''

Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produces effects similar in duration and effects to '''White DMT'''. 
I strongly believe the yellow DMT which MANY people prefer to pure '''White DMT''' is in fact small amounts of Jungle DMT mixed with the '''White DMT.''' I think the cause of this is because Jungle DMT is ever so slightly soluble in naphtha.
An [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=156691 analysis] was done on this Jungle DMT and it is mostly (95%) DMT. Nonetheless I and many others still believe Jungle DMT produces noticeably different effects.

'''Yellow DMT-N-oxide'''

[[Image:SANY0050.JPG]] Crystallized DMT-N-oxide made with peroxide and white DMT

DMT-N-oxide was previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, but in fact Oxides seems unlikely to be present in the extracted DMT in significant amounts at all. (as I mentioned I believe that yellow is Jungle DMT)
 I and many others have smoked DMT which has been in ambient air for months/years without any significant loss of potency. 
Considering my tests (using the Oxides in the picture) suggest Oxides are about 1/3 or less potent than '''white DMT''' or jungle DMT when smoked (waiting on replication of this test to be positive though) then I conclude Oxides are insignificant and need not be worried about.

'''Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product'''

[[Image:Capture.PNG]]

Jimjam DMT I extracted using Tek 1 with d-limonene

If all the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum product called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during Tek 1.

Jimjam is considered by many to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though yields from extractions of more than 2% are not unheard of.

DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like Jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries - make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.

=== About the 2 teks ===
 [[Image:Suolvents.png]] 

Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naphtha they will be referred to as "the solvent"

In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used. '''Tek 2''' uses '''naphtha''' (lighter fluid) while
Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner but also used to dissolve HIPS 3D-printing supports)

(Vegetable oil can also apparently be used for Tek 1, you can search the Nexus for the many long threads talking about using it as a solvent)

'''Naphtha''' needs to be heated to dissolve or else it won't dissolve anything but its unique solubility properties allow for '''White DMT''' to be crystallized out when it is cooled in a freezer.
'''Tek 2''' thus involves a heating-step and a freezer-step that Tek 1 does not have. However, naphtha does not dissolve Jungle DMT very well so the extracted product will be almost entirely '''white DMT''' and leave the Jungle DMT in the MHRB.

d-limonene and xylene dissolve both '''white DMT''' and Jungle DMT at room temperate so Tek 1 doesn't need a heating step. Because of that it will yield full-spectrum product Jimjam DMT but since it is soluble, even when the solvent is cold, freezer precipitation doesn't work, so one of many different methods can be used to isolate the Jimjam DMT from the solvent.

Useful to know: If d-limonene is used, the tek will be

''<nowiki>*100% food-safe*</nowiki>'' 

Note:d-limonene still smells very strong and lingers in your house

'''For a first-timer [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Tek_2:_The_Fluffy_White_Funfest Tek 2] may be better advised than Tek 1 because it requires fewer steps and is well-suited for very small test batches like 30g-50g MHRB. I recommend Tek 1 for larger batches.

That being said, both teks are quite simple - comparable to baking a cake.'''

=== A little info on Lime ===
 [[Image:Lime.png]] 

'''The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is a replacement for lye which is very caustic and toxic.'''

lime is known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.

Until recently using caustic and toxic '''Sodium Hydroxide''' (lye, drain cleaner) was the only option as the base when extracting DMT. Lye is very potentially dangerous

These Teks instead use '''Lime'''. '''Lime''' is a powerful base that is actually food safe. It is powerfully alkaline so take care not to get it in your eyes or inhale it and wash your hands after touching it.

There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities. 

'''Here are some tips:'' Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums. So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores.

Local availability varies all the way from none to lots depending on country/location. If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.

If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally. Look on the internet for something and confirm that it is pure Ca(OH)2 before purchasing it from a reputable vendor.

If I haven't made this clear enough, let me end this section with a final clarification:
You MUST use proper lime for this tek to work! Make sure you do, good luck!

== Tek 1: The Jimjam party ==

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:''' 
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

Extraction Specific: 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH) 30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2) 125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark) Some Sealable and shakeable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel one Turkey baster or pipette(HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one Stove or Kettle one Pot or Pan

Useful tools one or more Funnels one Rice cooker one Baking pan/large surface area container one or more razor blades/scrapers one or two high quality mason jars 

Tincture tools one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml) one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses one spoon one lighter/candle/heat source

=== Preparation: ===
 [[Image:Materials.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I highly recommend not skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent: ===
 [[Image:Dlime.jpg]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear d-limonene solvent floating on top

Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted '''''

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g) 

'''Step 2:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:''' mix with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:''' you can just roll the container around in your hands to mix it.

Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

Mix it well several times over 40-60 minutes. (I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

'''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY.'''

'''Step 3:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Note:Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Alternative Next-Steps ===
'''Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method.
There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB (Step 4)] by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead.

'''↓My preferred method is below↓'''

=== Salting with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:IMG_20200528_061727.jpg]]

Cloudy d-limonene floating on top of yellowish vinegar

'''''This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.'''''

Note 1: Xylene and D-Limonene are very leaky, most containers will eventually start leaking during the salting process. I recommend high quality mason jars that you’ve tested the lids to make sure the solvent doesn’t react with.

'''Step 1:''' Pour some vinegar into the sealable container with the solvent. About 2 shot glasses full.

'''Step 2:''' Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefer to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. Emulsions in this step always resolve pretty easily. No need to be careful.

Agitate the container 3-4 times over 40-60 minutes. The solvent will quickly start to get cloudy and the vinegar will gradually get more yellow.

You don’t have to wait until the solvent gets clear, it doesn’t seem to relate to the process being finished.

'''Step 3:''' Use a turkey baster/pipette to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container. As with the other liquid separations, 90% is okay.

Note 2: Try to get as little of the solvent during the separation as possible. This solvent will leave plant oils and other junk in your end product. That being said, a 1mm layer of solvent atop your vinegar is common using this method.

'''Step 4:'''
Repeat steps 1-3 once in exactly the same way, combine the separated vinegar pulls in a sealable container. Keep it safe because any spill will be a loss of lots of DMT!

For those that want DMT as soon as possible, proceed immediately on to the condensing step after Step 4.

'''Step 5:''' For those more patient/lazy, plan for your next non-polar solvent use.

'''The most efficient/least effort extraction:'''

'''Non-polar pull #1''' - 6-8 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #2''' - 24 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #3''' - 48 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the above 3 pulls should contain 80-90% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all of the vinegar from pulls 1-3 and proceed to the condensing step.

'''Non-polar pull #4''' - 1 week after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #5''' - 2-3 weeks after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the 5 pulls together should contain at least 95% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all the vinegar from pulls 4-5 and do another condensing.

=== Condensing/Tincture Making: ===
 [[Image:Condensing.jpg]]

The process of condensing vinegar from light yellow liquid to a dense red tincture (all pulls from 500g MHRB)

'''This step is just to concentrate the vinegar containing the DMT down to a dense liquid "tincture" which can easily measure dosages by number of drops.'''

The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all of your DMT maintaining a consistent concentration. This tincture will keep indefinitely, I have used the same for 3+ years with no loss of potency.

Note 1: You could technically evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smokeable product. But that would result in a goo which is very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air. I honestly wouldn't recommend it that method though.

'''There are many steps to do in the condensing, so I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar saltings into one because it makes your house smell very vinegary for a few hours and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times. Moreover, combining tinctures changes their concentrations, requiring re-measuring.'''

'''Step 1:''' Filter the vinegar through a cotton ball in a funnel, then add a bit of water to wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball and pour it all in a pot.

'''Step 2:''' Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 40-50ml

'''Step 3:''' Remove the pot from heat, then use a dropper to carefully filter the liquid through a cotton ball then wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball again with water

'''Step 4:''' Lower the heat to medium low and watch it carefully until it is around starts to become red in color.

Note 2: You can estimate the resulting liquid based on the amount of MHRB used. The combined vinegar from 3 solvent pulls will result in roughly 1tsp/5ml for every 100g MHRB used at 10mg/drop. Generally it's much less liquid than you expect, especially if you're used to dosing with crystals.

'''Step 5:''' As the liquid becomes redder and redder, '''before the liquid is all gone,''' remove the pot from heat, tip the pot to the side and use a dropper to transfer your tincture to a dropper bottle.

'''It is a delicate balance of not removing all liquid, but getting a good concentration. It is best to aim for a little less liquid than a little more for 2 reasons:

You’ll need to rinse the pot with a few mL of water to get all the DMT off, adding additional liquid to the tincture

Adding more liquid is extremely simple, while removing liquid means doing the condensing again.'''

'''A tincture can vary hugely based on a few factors. The color is a simple general indicator of the concentration. Here are pictures of 3 different concentration levels:'''

[[Image:Captude.PNG]]

5mg per drop

[[Image:Capturfde.PNG]]

10mg per drop

[[Image:Captufdare.PNG]]

15mg per drop

More concentration can be done, but tinctures will get thicker and thicker until they are a thick goo (at room temperature) of pure DMT at around 50mg per drop.

For those wanting a more formal measurement of the concentration, proceed on to next optional section.

=== Measuring the tincture: ===
 Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.

Quantitative Concentration (numerical):

- Drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster.

- Put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) '''NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!'''

- Once the liquid has dissolved and it smells strongly, but not of vinegar, turn off the element and let it sit until cool enough to handle.

During the cooling, measure the weight of a razor blade using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.

- Remove the coaster from the element then scrape up the goo with a razor and measured using the scale.

- Subtract the weight of the razor blade then divide the number by 10 and that is the concentration per drop.

- Label the tincture with the concentration.

Note: Don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change!

Qualitative Concentration (subjective): This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca - Use one of the methods from the next section to evaporate 1 drop of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. - If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 2 drops, then 3, 4, etc. until adequate effects are achieved. - Concentration will then be *number* drops = Mild *number* drops = Strong *number* drops = Breakthrough *number* drops = Too Strong!

- Label the tincture with the recommended drops for a dosage.

=== Evaporation and Smoking: ===
 [[Image:Evaporatinsssg.png]]

Preparing a dose using the slow method and smoking DMT off copper using a home-made glass pipe and home-made glass bong

'''''After evaporating all the liquid from some of the tincture you are left with nearly pure DMT acetate goo. DMT acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and decomposes into freebase DMT with heat, so it is readily smokable (and doesn't taste like vinegar)'''''

The Slow and Patient Method

Simply put a number of drops of tincture for a single dose of DMT on your smoking material and let it dry for a few hours before smoking.

'''Smoking materials:'''

Neutral Herb (Mullien, Peppermint)

Maoi Containing Herb (Caapi, Passionflower)

Pre-torched Ceramic Fiber Ball

Pre-Charred Copper Kitchen Scrubber Ball

Silicon Carbide Ceramic Foam

Caution: Vinegar on copper may result in smoking small amounts of copper acetate which is not good for you. I cannot formally recommend this method for long term health without more information/research

The Hot and Quick Method

Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!

'''1: On Glass - Stove/Oven Method'''

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a flat glass coaster (I got my from the dollar store and then removed the rubber feet and glue from the bottom)

- Put the glass onto an electric stove element or into an oven at AS LOW AS POSSIBLE (do not use a gas stovetop)

- After the liquid evaporated and it doesn’t smell of vinegar it is ready. Usually about 1-2 minutes or 5 for fewer drops

- You can either:

a: Scrape up the liquid with a razor blade and transfer it to any smoking material

b: Let the glass cool to the touch then scrape it up with some herb/copper mesh

Note: hot DMT-acetate goo is very liquidy and hard to scrape up, the closer to room temperature it is, the thicker and easier it will be to scrape up.

'''2: With a Spoon - Lighter/Candle Method'''

Note:As much as this method might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a spoon then heat it from below with a lighter or candle flame. Be careful not to heat too quickly or it will spatter and DMT some will be lost.

- Continue to heat until the liquid has all gone and you’re left with a thin red liquidy goo that smells strongly but not of vinegar. A hot spoon will rapidly evaporate excess liquid without a flame below, so you can stop heating slightly before the process is finished.

- Carefully scrape up the goo with some herb/copper mesh. It’s usually best to let it cool for at least 30s before doing so to avoid burning yourself and allowing the goo to cool and thicken.

'''A quick warning about stability.'''

You could make lots of doses ahead of time with the slow or quick method, but DMT-acetate seems somewhat unstable outside the tincture. I have some ongoing tests to assess the stability of DMT in this method. The only 2 data points I have so far are:

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment, 1 week = no potency loss.

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment, 1 month = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 2 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 3 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 6 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 1 year = completely degraded and unsmokable

=== Smoking: ===

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

Whether DMT crystals are melted on it, or DMT-acetate goo is put on them doesn't matter, you create a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50), most of them should work relatively interchangeably with DMT-acetates because the crystals are usually melted into a goo before smoking anyway.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 1 ===
You'll need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)
 Dropper Bottle
 Hot Plate/Stovetop
 Copper Kitchen Scrubber
 Turkey baster/pipette (solvent-safe!)

First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick tomato soup.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Add 150ml or more xylene or d-Limonene for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent, this is normal.
Stir the solvent around all the bark-mush. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes.

Gently pour off the solvent (might need to filter it) into a separate solvent-safe container.

Add 2 shot-glasses of vinegar into the solvent and agitate it a few times over 40-50 minutes

Use a turkey baster/pipette to separate the vinegar at the bottom to a separate container then repeat one more time with fresh vinegar

Put the solvent back on the bark-mush. I recommend pouring it off and doing the vinegar step at 1 day and 2 days, early pulls will yield less.

Combine all the vinegar pulls you have and carefully evaporate them until they start turning red. (you can optionally filter it)

Look at the condensing step for a color reference for a good concentration. It is most likely going to be much less liquid than you expect as it is very potent.

Transfer the liquid to a dropper bottle. Now you have a liquid that can be measured by number of drops and when evaporated (with or without heat) leaves a red goo which is readily smokable DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Scrub up the DMT with the ball and it can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

----

== Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest ==

=== About Naphtha ===
 Naphtha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though its toxicity is quite benign. '''Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.''' The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naphtha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.

Plus 2 things: 1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple of hours. 2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.

Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.

If you are in the US then VM+P Naphtha is your choice. If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices. If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it: 1. Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs) 2. Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.

(What your product will could like if you follow the tek) [[Image:Spicee.jpg]]

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:'''
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the naphtha and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority of problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

 Two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naphtha won't dissolve/degrade) one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best) one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation one freezer 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH) Some Lime Ca(OH)2 100ml or more Naphtha one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)

Useful tools a few Playing cards one or more razor blades/scrapers Some coffee filters 

=== Preparation: ===
[[Image:Materials2.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I highly recommend not skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Naphtha'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Naphtha: ===
 [[Image:Napthaandgoo.JPG]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear naphtha solvent floating on top

'''Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naphtha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted.'''

Caution: Naphtha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do all of the following in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Get a large bowl that your bark-mush container/bowl can easily fit in. Place your container/bowl inside the bottom bowl then add boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the container/bowl or as close to that as possible. This will warm the bark mush indirectly and safely.

'''Step 2:''' Once the bark mush has been thoroughly warmed (it does not need to be hot, just nicely warm), add 1ml naphtha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naphtha or more for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 3:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Stir the bark-mush around to contact the solvent with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Danger: Warm naphtha produces lots of expanding fumes, so you MUST vent it frequently whenever it is closed and if you are using something that may shatter, put on gloves and safety glasses.

When the bark-naphtha mush has been warmed, but is not too hot to handle, seal the container and roll the container around in your hands to mix it. Regularly open the container to vent the pressure from the warm naphtha. Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

For either the bowl or the container, mix well several times over 40-60 minutes,(I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

Place the container/bowl in the hot water when you’re not mixing. Feel the outside of the bowl/container with the bark-mush from time to time and if it is no longer warm then you can replace/add more boiling water in the bowl underneath.

'''Step 4:''' Clean and dry your precipitation container

I find it easiest to work with a small glass cake-baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals. You can use any naphtha-safe container though, the crystals sometimes float around in plastic containers, but not always.

'''Step 5:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container, DRY THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Once your solvent is in you precipication container, proceed to the next step. If you see some clear liquid (water) under your naphtha, this is not good for the next step. Add the solvent back to the bark and immediately do the seperation again more carefully.

Note: Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Precipitation/Crystallization: ===
 [[Image:Spices.JPG]]

The first pull of naphtha from 500g of MHRB after being in the freezer overnight

'''This step works on the principal that naphtha can dissolve DMT-freebase quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naphtha with DMT-freebase dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.'''

'''Step 1:''' Just pop your precipitation container straight into the freezer. If the naphtha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry this is normal. The naphtha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow, especially on the first pull.

Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but although naphtha smells pretty strong, it doesn't linger too long like d-limonene or xylene.

'''Step 3:''' Keep the naphtha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming. If the naphtha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT-freebase molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.

'''Step 4:''' Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take your precipitation container out of the freezer and very gently pour off the naphtha back into your bark-mush.
Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors) place to lean your precipitation container against, the few drops of excess naphtha will drip off and all of the naphtha surrounding the crystals will evaporate in a couple of hours. Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, however usually just SLOWLY pouring the naphtha off works fine. You may use a coffee filter to catch them if you prefer.

'''Once your container no longer smells like naphtha the DMT-freebase is ready! Scrape them up with a razor or a small spoon and put in a small sealable container or baggie for storage. Keep it in a COOL DRY PLACE because DMT crystals will simply melt on a hot day'''

'''Additional Naphtha Pulls:'''

As I mentioned before, there are recommended timings for pulling with naphtha, but they are planned so you don't need to use extra solvent.
My recommended proceedure is as follows:

Warm and Pull either immediately or at 6-8 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 24 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 48 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''The above 3 pulls should total 80-90% of the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Warm and Pull at 1 week after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 2-3 after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''All 5 pulls together should contain 95% or more than the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Final Notes on Extracting with Tek 2:

- The solvent and the crystals will usually be more yellow with each pull. You won't notice the difference when smoking yellow DMT vs white DMT though. Also, your DMT crystals will often turn more yellow over long periods of time.

- There may be a small film underneath the crystals. I am pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT which are both readily smokable and psychoactive like the white DMT crystals.

- You can do a re-crystallization for larger crystals (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Recrystallization)

- If the first 2 pulls don't cloud or precipitate crystals after 8-12 hours then check something in the extraction did not work correctly. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Common_issues.2FTroubleshooting Common issues/Troubleshooting] because that should not happen.

- Technically you can make a tincture from Tek 2 by salting the naphtha with vinegar or dissolving the crystals in vinegar. This will produce a beautiful amber-colored liquid that can be measured in 2-3 drops rather than with a scale. This is my prefered method, but I know everyone loves pretty crystals, so this might take some of the magic out of Tek 2 for many people.

=== Smoking: ===

[[Image:IMG 20200703 121449.jpg]]

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So I can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

You just gently put a single dose of your DMT crystals on the ball then warm it with a ligher until they have melted and coated the metal and you've created a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50)explore and find your favorite one.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 2 ===
You need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 Naphtha
 Freezer

In a bowl, mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of MHRB is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick porridge.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Use a bowl underneath containing hot water to warm your bark mush.
Add about 100ml naphtha for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush.
Stir the naphtha around all the bark. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes, making sure the bark mush is kept warm the whole time.

Wipe the bottom of your bowl dry, then gently pour off the naphtha into a container which will go in the freezer (optionally through a coffee filter to catch sediment). I use an 8 inch pyrex cake pan.
If the naphtha is at a low level in the container you may want to wrap it in saran wrap to prevent evaporation.

In a couple of hours the naphtha should get cloudy. Slowly over 8-12 hours the DMT will precipitate out of the naphtha and form crystals on the container.
When the naphtha is no longer cloudy then gently pour the naphtha off the crystals and back into your bark mush (you may use a coffee filter if you prefer).
Put the container on its side to allow the naphtha to evaporate. Keep it out of the sunlight because the crystals will melt into a goo at about 40C or so.

When the crystals no longer smell of naphtha they are ready to smoke or whatever. Keep in a dime bag or something. STORE IN A COOL DRY PLACE TO AVOID MELTING!

Your first pull will only contain a portion of the total DMT, I recommend warming the naphtha, seperating and crystallizing again at 1 day, 2 days, 1 week and 2-3 weeks. Each pull will yeild less DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Put a dose of DMT crystals gently on the ball, then slowly heat it until they have all melted into it. At that point the ball can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

== Common issues/Troubleshooting ==

The teks are pretty comprehensive, so as long as you follow the steps you can expect success.

There are 5 likely causes of no DMT or very small yields of DMT. Each of them has to do with the quality of your core extraction materials:

'''1. Your Lime is not Calcium Hydroxide'''

This will mean that the PH of your basified bark mush is not low enough to convert the DMT-acetate to DMT freebase. Adding lime and water to the mix may fix this, but it depends on what your previous "lime" was.

'''2. Your Solvent was not the D-limonene/Xylene/Naphtha that was mentioned in the Teks.'''

This will result in either no DMT being dissolved in the solvent, the solvent mixing with the bark, no precipitation of DMT, no salting of DMT or maybe something else. Most of these will result in unsalvageable Teks, so I hope you don't have this issue.

'''3. Your MHRB is not MHRB'''

This basically means you have no DMT to extract, so there is no solution to this issue other than getting yourself real MHRB

'''4: Your MHRB is not powdered'''

I have tried about 5x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and got a maximum of 5% the yield as powdered bark. If you have unused bark, you can try to powder it in a really strong blender, but most blenders can't powder MHRB. It might be better to just do a lye tek with your MHRB

'''5. Your vinegar is not 5% acetic acid'''

This will result in a successful, but 5x slower tek as it makes it a lime STB. You will have to wait much longer for the lime to work on the MHRB, but you just need patience and you'll get a full yield

 '''Good luck in all your life's endeavors! '''

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Limtek]]
[[Category:Acid/Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]

Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek

2020-07-19T22:58:58Z

Q21q21:

This tek is not Q21Q21's original idea but rather a culmination of many people's ideas. It is NOT perfect so if you can think of a better way to do ANY part of it then try it and PM me if it works! The tek is written in first person but they are Q21Q21's words.

(Q21Q21 being a fictional alien entity... with internet access)'''

 This tek was inspired by: '''Blueskine''' whose idea for freebasing acetates with heat changed my life! '''Noman''' whose tek on erowid inspired my first extraction '''69ron''' and his mescaline tek that taught me the power of lime '''amor_fati''' whose tek inspired me to try a vinegar step and made the tek over 10x faster '''SyZyGyPSy''' was the first person to report using limonene to extract spice '''Anyone whose post was read and forgot who posted it, you all helped.''' '''Lye''' which is so toxic and nasty.

_____________________
== Introduction ==

'''As a comprehensive guide there's lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.'''

'''If you would like to get right into the "What do I do?" then you can start by reading the Super-short Compressed Tek. (Then the full tek later)
'''
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_1 Tek 1 (Uses xylene/d-limonene)]
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_2 Tek 2 (Uses naphtha)]

== Background Information ==

=== The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark ===

While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis (abbreviated as MHRB)

[[image:MHRBthing.png]]

Mimosa Hostilis Plant, Whole Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark (MHRB), Shredded MHRB, Powdered MHRB

Mimosa Hostilis is a shrub that contains '''N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' and 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids (and some TINY amounts of NMT) in its root-bark . 

Discussions about suppliers of MHRB are no longer allowed on the DMT-Nexus, so it's best to do outside-Nexus searches for suppliers.

'''An extremely important note''' is that I have tried about 10x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and failed each time. Powdered MHRB is the only thing I'd recommend to buy as most blenders cannot powder MHRB properly.

=== Info about the 3 types of DMT contained in MHRB ===

Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information. '''Methods:''' [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Pharmahuasca Pharmahuasca], [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Guide_to_Mucosahuasca Mucosahuasca] or [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17873 Smoking]

''' White N-N-DMT'''
 
 [[Image:Crystals.JPG]] White DMT I extracted using Tek 2

'''White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' is pure DMT. MHRB usually contains about 1% of its weight in '''White DMT''', though yields from extractions of less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.

In the past the ultimate goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just '''White DMT''' in it. 

'''Red "Jungle" DMT'''

[[Image:SANY0069.JPG]] Thick dark red Jungle DMT extracted from by fully depleting the MHRB using naphtha, then pulling with xylene

"Jungle" DMT is also contained in the bark but cannot be extracted into crystals like '''White DMT'''

Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produces effects similar in duration and effects to '''White DMT'''. 
I strongly believe the yellow DMT which MANY people prefer to pure '''White DMT''' is in fact small amounts of Jungle DMT mixed with the '''White DMT.''' I think the cause of this is because Jungle DMT is ever so slightly soluble in naphtha.
An [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=156691 analysis] was done on this Jungle DMT and it is mostly (95%) DMT. Nonetheless I and many others still believe Jungle DMT produces noticeably different effects.

'''Yellow DMT-N-oxide'''

[[Image:SANY0050.JPG]] Crystallized DMT-N-oxide made with peroxide and white DMT

DMT-N-oxide was previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, but in fact Oxides seems unlikely to be present in the extracted DMT in significant amounts at all. (as I mentioned I believe that yellow is Jungle DMT)
 I and many others have smoked DMT which has been in ambient air for months/years without any significant loss of potency. 
Considering my tests (using the Oxides in the picture) suggest Oxides are about 1/3 or less potent than '''white DMT''' or jungle DMT when smoked (waiting on replication of this test to be positive though) then I conclude Oxides are insignificant and need not be worried about.

'''Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product'''

[[Image:Capture.PNG]]

Jimjam DMT I extracted using Tek 1 with d-limonene

If all the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum product called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during Tek 1.

Jimjam is considered by many to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though yields from extractions of more than 2% are not unheard of.

DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like Jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries - make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.

=== About the 2 teks ===
 [[Image:Suolvents.png]] 

Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naphtha they will be referred to as "the solvent"

In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used. '''Tek 2''' uses '''naphtha''' (lighter fluid) while
Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner but also used to dissolve HIPS 3D-printing supports)

(Vegetable oil can also apparently be used for Tek 1, you can search the Nexus for the many long threads talking about using it as a solvent)

'''Naphtha''' needs to be heated to dissolve or else it won't dissolve anything but its unique solubility properties allow for '''White DMT''' to be crystallized out when it is cooled in a freezer.
'''Tek 2''' thus involves a heating-step and a freezer-step that Tek 1 does not have. However, naphtha does not dissolve Jungle DMT very well so the extracted product will be almost entirely '''white DMT''' and leave the Jungle DMT in the MHRB.

d-limonene and xylene dissolve both '''white DMT''' and Jungle DMT at room temperate so Tek 1 doesn't need a heating step. Because of that it will yield full-spectrum product Jimjam DMT but since it is soluble, even when the solvent is cold, freezer precipitation doesn't work, so one of many different methods can be used to isolate the Jimjam DMT from the solvent.

Useful to know: If d-limonene is used, the tek will be

''<nowiki>*100% food-safe*</nowiki>'' 

Note:d-limonene still smells very strong and lingers in your house

'''For a first-timer [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Tek_2:_The_Fluffy_White_Funfest Tek 2] may be better advised than Tek 1 because it requires fewer steps and is well-suited for very small test batches like 30g-50g MHRB. I recommend Tek 1 for larger batches.

That being said, both teks are quite simple - comparable to baking a cake.'''

=== A little info on Lime ===
 [[Image:Lime.png]] 

'''The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is a replacement for lye which is very caustic and toxic.'''

lime is known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.

Until recently using caustic and toxic '''Sodium Hydroxide''' (lye, drain cleaner) was the only option as the base when extracting DMT. Lye is very potentially dangerous

These Teks instead use '''Lime'''. '''Lime''' is a powerful base that is actually food safe. It is powerfully alkaline so take care not to get it in your eyes or inhale it and wash your hands after touching it.

There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities. 

'''Here are some tips:'' Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums. So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores.

Local availability varies all the way from none to lots depending on country/location. If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.

If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally. Look on the internet for something and confirm that it is pure Ca(OH)2 before purchasing it from a reputable vendor.

If I haven't made this clear enough, let me end this section with a final clarification:
You MUST use proper lime for this tek to work! Make sure you do, good luck!

== Tek 1: The Jimjam party ==

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:''' 
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

Extraction Specific: 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH) 30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2) 125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark) Some Sealable and shakeable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel one Turkey baster or pipette(HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one Stove or Kettle one Pot or Pan

Useful tools one or more Funnels one Rice cooker one Baking pan/large surface area container one or more razor blades/scrapers one or two high quality mason jars 

Tincture tools one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml) one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses one spoon one lighter/candle/heat source

=== Preparation: ===
 [[Image:Materials.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I highly recommend not skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent: ===
 [[Image:Dlime.jpg]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear d-limonene solvent floating on top

Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted '''''

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g) 

'''Step 2:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:''' mix with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:''' you can just roll the container around in your hands to mix it.

Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

Mix it well several times over 40-60 minutes. (I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

'''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY.'''

'''Step 3:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Note:Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Alternative Next-Steps ===
'''Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method.
There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB (Step 4)] by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead.

'''↓My preferred method is below↓'''

=== Salting with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:IMG_20200528_061727.jpg]]

Cloudy d-limonene floating on top of yellowish vinegar

'''''This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.'''''

Note 1: Xylene and D-Limonene are very leaky, most containers will eventually start leaking during the salting process. I recommend high quality mason jars that you’ve tested the lids to make sure the solvent doesn’t react with.

'''Step 1:''' Pour some vinegar into the sealable container with the solvent. About 2 shot glasses full.

'''Step 2:''' Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefer to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. Emulsions in this step always resolve pretty easily. No need to be careful.

Agitate the container 3-4 times over 40-60 minutes. The solvent will quickly start to get cloudy and the vinegar will gradually get more yellow.

You don’t have to wait until the solvent gets clear, it doesn’t seem to relate to the process being finished.

'''Step 3:''' Use a turkey baster/pipette to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container. As with the other liquid separations, 90% is okay.

Note 2: Try to get as little of the solvent during the separation as possible. This solvent will leave plant oils and other junk in your end product. That being said, a 1mm layer of solvent atop your vinegar is common using this method.

'''Step 4:'''
Repeat steps 1-3 once in exactly the same way, combine the separated vinegar pulls in a sealable container. Keep it safe because any spill will be a loss of lots of DMT!

For those that want DMT as soon as possible, proceed immediately on to the condensing step after Step 4.

'''Step 5:''' For those more patient/lazy, plan for your next non-polar solvent use.

'''The most efficient/least effort extraction:'''

'''Non-polar pull #1''' - 6-8 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #2''' - 24 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #3''' - 48 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the above 3 pulls should contain 80-90% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all of the vinegar from pulls 1-3 and proceed to the condensing step.

'''Non-polar pull #4''' - 1 week after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #5''' - 2-3 weeks after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the 5 pulls together should contain at least 95% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all the vinegar from pulls 4-5 and do another condensing.

=== Condensing/Tincture Making: ===
 [[Image:Condensing.jpg]]

The process of condensing vinegar from light yellow liquid to a dense red tincture (all pulls from 500g MHRB)

'''This step is just to concentrate the vinegar containing the DMT down to a dense liquid "tincture" which can easily measure dosages by number of drops.'''

The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all of your DMT maintaining a consistent concentration. This tincture will keep indefinitely, I have used the same for 3+ years with no loss of potency.

Note 1: You could technically evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smokeable product. But that would result in a goo which is very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air. I honestly wouldn't recommend it that method though.

'''There are many steps to do in the condensing, so I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar saltings into one because it makes your house smell very vinegary and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times. Moreover, combining tinctures changes their concentrations, requiring re-measuring.'''

'''Step 1:''' Filter the vinegar through a cotton ball in a funnel, then add a bit of water to wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball and pour it all in a pot.

'''Step 2:''' Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 40-50ml

'''Step 3:''' Remove the pot from heat, then use a dropper to carefully filter the liquid through a cotton ball then wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball again with water

'''Step 4:''' Lower the heat to medium low and watch it carefully until it is around starts to become red in color.

Note 2: You can estimate the resulting liquid based on the amount of MHRB used. The combined vinegar from 3 solvent pulls will result in roughly 1tsp/5ml for every 100g MHRB used at 10mg/drop. Generally it's much less liquid than you expect, especially if you're used to dosing with crystals.

'''Step 5:''' As the liquid becomes redder and redder, '''before the liquid is all gone,''' remove the pot from heat, tip the pot to the side and use a dropper to transfer your tincture to a dropper bottle.

'''It is a delicate balance of not removing all liquid, but getting a good concentration. It is best to aim for a little less liquid than a little more for 2 reasons:

You’ll need to rinse the pot with a few mL of water to get all the DMT off, adding additional liquid to the tincture

Adding more liquid is extremely simple, while removing liquid means doing the condensing again.'''

'''A tincture can vary hugely based on a few factors. The color is a simple general indicator of the concentration. Here are pictures of 3 different concentration levels:'''

[[Image:Captude.PNG]]

5mg per drop

[[Image:Capturfde.PNG]]

10mg per drop

[[Image:Captufdare.PNG]]

15mg per drop

More concentration can be done, but tinctures will get thicker and thicker until they are a thick goo (at room temperature) of pure DMT at around 50mg per drop.

For those wanting a more formal measurement of the concentration, proceed on to next optional section.

=== Measuring the tincture: ===
 Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.

Quantitative Concentration (numerical):

- Drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster.

- Put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) '''NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!'''

- Once the liquid has dissolved and it smells strongly, but not of vinegar, turn off the element and let it sit until cool enough to handle.

During the cooling, measure the weight of a razor blade using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.

- Remove the coaster from the element then scrape up the goo with a razor and measured using the scale.

- Subtract the weight of the razor blade then divide the number by 10 and that is the concentration per drop.

- Label the tincture with the concentration.

Note: Don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change!

Qualitative Concentration (subjective): This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca - Use one of the methods from the next section to evaporate 1 drop of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. - If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 2 drops, then 3, 4, etc. until adequate effects are achieved. - Concentration will then be *number* drops = Mild *number* drops = Strong *number* drops = Breakthrough *number* drops = Too Strong!

- Label the tincture with the recommended drops for a dosage.

=== Evaporation and Smoking: ===
 [[Image:Evaporatinsssg.png]]

Preparing a dose using the slow method and smoking DMT off copper using a home-made glass pipe and home-made glass bong

'''''After evaporating all the liquid from some of the tincture you are left with nearly pure DMT acetate goo. DMT acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and decomposes into freebase DMT with heat, so it is readily smokable (and doesn't taste like vinegar)'''''

The Slow and Patient Method

Simply put a number of drops of tincture for a single dose of DMT on your smoking material and let it dry for a few hours before smoking.

'''Smoking materials:'''

Neutral Herb (Mullien, Peppermint)

Maoi Containing Herb (Caapi, Passionflower)

Pre-torched Ceramic Fiber Ball

Pre-Charred Copper Kitchen Scrubber Ball

Silicon Carbide Ceramic Foam

Caution: Vinegar on copper may result in smoking small amounts of copper acetate which is not good for you. I cannot formally recommend this method for long term health without more information/research

The Hot and Quick Method

Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!

'''1: On Glass - Stove/Oven Method'''

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a flat glass coaster (I got my from the dollar store and then removed the rubber feet and glue from the bottom)

- Put the glass onto an electric stove element or into an oven at AS LOW AS POSSIBLE (do not use a gas stovetop)

- After the liquid evaporated and it doesn’t smell of vinegar it is ready. Usually about 1-2 minutes or 5 for fewer drops

- You can either:

a: Scrape up the liquid with a razor blade and transfer it to any smoking material

b: Let the glass cool to the touch then scrape it up with some herb/copper mesh

Note: hot DMT-acetate goo is very liquidy and hard to scrape up, the closer to room temperature it is, the thicker and easier it will be to scrape up.

'''2: With a Spoon - Lighter/Candle Method'''

Note:As much as this method might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a spoon then heat it from below with a lighter or candle flame. Be careful not to heat too quickly or it will spatter and DMT some will be lost.

- Continue to heat until the liquid has all gone and you’re left with a thin red liquidy goo that smells strongly but not of vinegar. A hot spoon will rapidly evaporate excess liquid without a flame below, so you can stop heating slightly before the process is finished.

- Carefully scrape up the goo with some herb/copper mesh. It’s usually best to let it cool for at least 30s before doing so to avoid burning yourself and allowing the goo to cool and thicken.

'''A quick warning about stability.'''

You could make lots of doses ahead of time with the slow or quick method, but DMT-acetate seems somewhat unstable outside the tincture. I have some ongoing tests to assess the stability of DMT in this method. The only 2 data points I have so far are:

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment, 1 week = no potency loss.

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment, 1 month = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 2 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 3 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 6 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 1 year = completely degraded and unsmokable

=== Smoking: ===

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

Whether DMT crystals are melted on it, or DMT-acetate goo is put on them doesn't matter, you create a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50), most of them should work relatively interchangeably with DMT-acetates because the crystals are usually melted into a goo before smoking anyway.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 1 ===
You'll need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)
 Dropper Bottle
 Hot Plate/Stovetop
 Copper Kitchen Scrubber
 Turkey baster/pipette (solvent-safe!)

First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick tomato soup.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Add 150ml or more xylene or d-Limonene for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent, this is normal.
Stir the solvent around all the bark-mush. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes.

Gently pour off the solvent (might need to filter it) into a separate solvent-safe container.

Add 2 shot-glasses of vinegar into the solvent and agitate it a few times over 40-50 minutes

Use a turkey baster/pipette to separate the vinegar at the bottom to a separate container then repeat one more time with fresh vinegar

Put the solvent back on the bark-mush. I recommend pouring it off and doing the vinegar step at 1 day and 2 days, early pulls will yield less.

Combine all the vinegar pulls you have and carefully evaporate them until they start turning red. (you can optionally filter it)

Look at the condensing step for a color reference for a good concentration. It is most likely going to be much less liquid than you expect as it is very potent.

Transfer the liquid to a dropper bottle. Now you have a liquid that can be measured by number of drops and when evaporated (with or without heat) leaves a red goo which is readily smokable DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Scrub up the DMT with the ball and it can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

----

== Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest ==

=== About Naphtha ===
 Naphtha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though its toxicity is quite benign. '''Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.''' The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naphtha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.

Plus 2 things: 1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple of hours. 2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.

Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.

If you are in the US then VM+P Naphtha is your choice. If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices. If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it: 1. Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs) 2. Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.

(What your product will could like if you follow the tek) [[Image:Spicee.jpg]]

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:'''
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the naphtha and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority of problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

 Two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naphtha won't dissolve/degrade) one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best) one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation one freezer 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH) Some Lime Ca(OH)2 100ml or more Naphtha one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)

Useful tools a few Playing cards one or more razor blades/scrapers Some coffee filters 

=== Preparation: ===
[[Image:Materials2.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I highly recommend not skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Naphtha'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Naphtha: ===
 [[Image:Napthaandgoo.JPG]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear naphtha solvent floating on top

'''Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naphtha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted.'''

Caution: Naphtha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do all of the following in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Get a large bowl that your bark-mush container/bowl can easily fit in. Place your container/bowl inside the bottom bowl then add boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the container/bowl or as close to that as possible. This will warm the bark mush indirectly and safely.

'''Step 2:''' Once the bark mush has been thoroughly warmed (it does not need to be hot, just nicely warm), add 1ml naphtha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naphtha or more for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 3:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Stir the bark-mush around to contact the solvent with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Danger: Warm naphtha produces lots of expanding fumes, so you MUST vent it frequently whenever it is closed and if you are using something that may shatter, put on gloves and safety glasses.

When the bark-naphtha mush has been warmed, but is not too hot to handle, seal the container and roll the container around in your hands to mix it. Regularly open the container to vent the pressure from the warm naphtha. Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

For either the bowl or the container, mix well several times over 40-60 minutes,(I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

Place the container/bowl in the hot water when you’re not mixing. Feel the outside of the bowl/container with the bark-mush from time to time and if it is no longer warm then you can replace/add more boiling water in the bowl underneath.

'''Step 4:''' Clean and dry your precipitation container

I find it easiest to work with a small glass cake-baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals. You can use any naphtha-safe container though, the crystals sometimes float around in plastic containers, but not always.

'''Step 5:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container, DRY THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Once your solvent is in you precipication container, proceed to the next step. If you see some clear liquid (water) under your naphtha, this is not good for the next step. Add the solvent back to the bark and immediately do the seperation again more carefully.

Note: Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Precipitation/Crystallization: ===
 [[Image:Spices.JPG]]

The first pull of naphtha from 500g of MHRB after being in the freezer overnight

'''This step works on the principal that naphtha can dissolve DMT-freebase quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naphtha with DMT-freebase dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.'''

'''Step 1:''' Just pop your precipitation container straight into the freezer. If the naphtha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry this is normal. The naphtha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow, especially on the first pull.

Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but although naphtha smells pretty strong, it doesn't linger too long like d-limonene or xylene.

'''Step 3:''' Keep the naphtha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming. If the naphtha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT-freebase molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.

'''Step 4:''' Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take your precipitation container out of the freezer and very gently pour off the naphtha back into your bark-mush.
Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors) place to lean your precipitation container against, the few drops of excess naphtha will drip off and all of the naphtha surrounding the crystals will evaporate in a couple of hours. Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, however usually just SLOWLY pouring the naphtha off works fine. You may use a coffee filter to catch them if you prefer.

'''Once your container no longer smells like naphtha the DMT-freebase is ready! Scrape them up with a razor or a small spoon and put in a small sealable container or baggie for storage. Keep it in a COOL DRY PLACE because DMT crystals will simply melt on a hot day'''

'''Additional Naphtha Pulls:'''

As I mentioned before, there are recommended timings for pulling with naphtha, but they are planned so you don't need to use extra solvent.
My recommended proceedure is as follows:

Warm and Pull either immediately or at 6-8 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 24 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 48 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''The above 3 pulls should total 80-90% of the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Warm and Pull at 1 week after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 2-3 after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''All 5 pulls together should contain 95% or more than the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Final Notes on Extracting with Tek 2:

- The solvent and the crystals will usually be more yellow with each pull. You won't notice the difference when smoking yellow DMT vs white DMT though. Also, your DMT crystals will often turn more yellow over long periods of time.

- There may be a small film underneath the crystals. I am pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT which are both readily smokable and psychoactive like the white DMT crystals.

- You can do a re-crystallization for larger crystals (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Recrystallization)

- If the first 2 pulls don't cloud or precipitate crystals after 8-12 hours then check something in the extraction did not work correctly. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Common_issues.2FTroubleshooting Common issues/Troubleshooting] because that should not happen.

- Technically you can make a tincture from Tek 2 by salting the naphtha with vinegar or dissolving the crystals in vinegar. This will produce a beautiful amber-colored liquid that can be measured in 2-3 drops rather than with a scale. This is my prefered method, but I know everyone loves pretty crystals, so this might take some of the magic out of Tek 2 for many people.

=== Smoking: ===

[[Image:IMG 20200703 121449.jpg]]

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So I can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

You just gently put a single dose of your DMT crystals on the ball then warm it with a ligher until they have melted and coated the metal and you've created a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50)explore and find your favorite one.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 2 ===
You need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 Naphtha
 Freezer

In a bowl, mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of MHRB is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick porridge.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Use a bowl underneath containing hot water to warm your bark mush.
Add about 100ml naphtha for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush.
Stir the naphtha around all the bark. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes, making sure the bark mush is kept warm the whole time.

Wipe the bottom of your bowl dry, then gently pour off the naphtha into a container which will go in the freezer (optionally through a coffee filter to catch sediment). I use an 8 inch pyrex cake pan.
If the naphtha is at a low level in the container you may want to wrap it in saran wrap to prevent evaporation.

In a couple of hours the naphtha should get cloudy. Slowly over 8-12 hours the DMT will precipitate out of the naphtha and form crystals on the container.
When the naphtha is no longer cloudy then gently pour the naphtha off the crystals and back into your bark mush (you may use a coffee filter if you prefer).
Put the container on its side to allow the naphtha to evaporate. Keep it out of the sunlight because the crystals will melt into a goo at about 40C or so.

When the crystals no longer smell of naphtha they are ready to smoke or whatever. Keep in a dime bag or something. STORE IN A COOL DRY PLACE TO AVOID MELTING!

Your first pull will only contain a portion of the total DMT, I recommend warming the naphtha, seperating and crystallizing again at 1 day, 2 days, 1 week and 2-3 weeks. Each pull will yeild less DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Put a dose of DMT crystals gently on the ball, then slowly heat it until they have all melted into it. At that point the ball can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

== Common issues/Troubleshooting ==

The teks are pretty comprehensive, so as long as you follow the steps you can expect success.

There are 5 likely causes of no DMT or very small yields of DMT. Each of them has to do with the quality of your core extraction materials:

'''1. Your Lime is not Calcium Hydroxide'''

This will mean that the PH of your basified bark mush is not low enough to convert the DMT-acetate to DMT freebase. Adding lime and water to the mix may fix this, but it depends on what your previous "lime" was.

'''2. Your Solvent was not the D-limonene/Xylene/Naphtha that was mentioned in the Teks.'''

This will result in either no DMT being dissolved in the solvent, the solvent mixing with the bark, no precipitation of DMT, no salting of DMT or maybe something else. Most of these will result in unsalvageable Teks, so I hope you don't have this issue.

'''3. Your MHRB is not MHRB'''

This basically means you have no DMT to extract, so there is no solution to this issue other than getting yourself real MHRB

'''4: Your MHRB is not powdered'''

I have tried about 5x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and got a maximum of 5% the yield as powdered bark. If you have unused bark, you can try to powder it in a really strong blender, but most blenders can't powder MHRB. It might be better to just do a lye tek with your MHRB

'''5. Your vinegar is not 5% acetic acid'''

This will result in a successful, but 5x slower tek as it makes it a lime STB. You will have to wait much longer for the lime to work on the MHRB, but you just need patience and you'll get a full yield

 '''Good luck in all your life's endeavors! '''

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Limtek]]
[[Category:Acid/Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]

Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek

2020-07-13T07:58:58Z

Q21q21:

This tek is not Q21Q21's original idea but rather a culmination of many people's ideas. It is NOT perfect so if you can think of a better way to do ANY part of it then try it and PM me if it works! The tek is written in first person but they are Q21Q21's words.

(Q21Q21 being a fictional alien entity... with internet access)'''

 This tek was inspired by: '''Blueskine''' whose idea for freebasing acetates with heat changed my life! '''Noman''' whose tek on erowid inspired my first extraction '''69ron''' and his mescaline tek that taught me the power of lime '''amor_fati''' whose tek inspired me to try a vinegar step and made the tek over 10x faster '''SyZyGyPSy''' was the first person to report using limonene to extract spice '''Anyone whose post was read and forgot who posted it, you all helped.''' '''Lye''' which is so toxic and nasty.

_____________________
== Introduction ==

'''As a comprehensive guide there's lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.'''

'''If you would like to get right into the "What do I do?" then you can start by reading the Super-short Compressed Tek. (Then the full tek later)
'''
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_1 Tek 1 (Uses xylene/d-limonene)]
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_2 Tek 2 (Uses naphtha)]

== Background Information ==

=== The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark ===

While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis (abbreviated as MHRB)

[[image:MHRBthing.png]]

Mimosa Hostilis Plant, Whole Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark (MHRB), Shredded MHRB, Powdered MHRB

Mimosa Hostilis is a shrub that contains '''N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' and 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids (and some TINY amounts of NMT) in its root-bark . 

Discussions about suppliers of MHRB are no longer allowed on the DMT-Nexus, so it's best to do outside-Nexus searches for suppliers.

'''An extremely important note''' is that I have tried about 10x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and failed each time. Powdered MHRB is the only thing I'd recommend to buy as most blenders cannot powder MHRB properly.

=== Info about the 3 types of DMT contained in MHRB ===

Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information. '''Methods:''' [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Pharmahuasca Pharmahuasca], [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Guide_to_Mucosahuasca Mucosahuasca] or [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17873 Smoking]

''' White N-N-DMT'''
 
 [[Image:Crystals.JPG]] White DMT I extracted using Tek 2

'''White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' is pure DMT. MHRB usually contains about 1% of its weight in '''White DMT''', though yields from extractions of less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.

In the past the ultimate goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just '''White DMT''' in it. 

'''Red "Jungle" DMT'''

[[Image:SANY0069.JPG]] Thick dark red Jungle DMT extracted from by fully depleting the MHRB using naphtha, then pulling with xylene

"Jungle" DMT is also contained in the bark but cannot be extracted into crystals like '''White DMT'''

Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produces effects similar in duration and effects to '''White DMT'''. 
I strongly believe the yellow DMT which MANY people prefer to pure '''White DMT''' is in fact small amounts of Jungle DMT mixed with the '''White DMT.''' I think the cause of this is because Jungle DMT is ever so slightly soluble in naphtha.
An [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=156691 analysis] was done on this Jungle DMT and it is mostly (95%) DMT. Nonetheless I and many others still believe Jungle DMT produces noticeably different effects.

'''Yellow DMT-N-oxide'''

[[Image:SANY0050.JPG]] Crystallized DMT-N-oxide made with peroxide and white DMT

DMT-N-oxide was previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, but in fact Oxides seems unlikely to be present in the extracted DMT in significant amounts at all. (as I mentioned I believe that yellow is Jungle DMT)
 I and many others have smoked DMT which has been in ambient air for months/years without any significant loss of potency. 
Considering my tests (using the Oxides in the picture) suggest Oxides are about 1/3 or less potent than '''white DMT''' or jungle DMT when smoked (waiting on replication of this test to be positive though) then I conclude Oxides are insignificant and need not be worried about.

'''Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product'''

[[Image:Capture.PNG]]

Jimjam DMT I extracted using Tek 1 with d-limonene

If all the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum product called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during Tek 1.

Jimjam is considered by many to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though yields from extractions of more than 2% are not unheard of.

DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like Jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries - make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.

=== About the 2 teks ===
 [[Image:Suolvents.png]] 

Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naphtha they will be referred to as "the solvent"

In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used. '''Tek 2''' uses '''naphtha''' (lighter fluid) while
Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner but also used to dissolve HIPS 3D-printing supports)

(Vegetable oil can also apparently be used for Tek 1, you can search the Nexus for the many long threads talking about using it as a solvent)

'''Naphtha''' needs to be heated to dissolve or else it won't dissolve anything but its unique solubility properties allow for '''White DMT''' to be crystallized out when it is cooled in a freezer.
'''Tek 2''' thus involves a heating-step and a freezer-step that Tek 1 does not have. However, naphtha does not dissolve Jungle DMT very well so the extracted product will be almost entirely '''white DMT''' and leave the Jungle DMT in the MHRB.

d-limonene and xylene dissolve both '''white DMT''' and Jungle DMT at room temperate so Tek 1 doesn't need a heating step. Because of that it will yield full-spectrum product Jimjam DMT but since it is soluble, even when the solvent is cold, freezer precipitation doesn't work, so one of many different methods can be used to isolate the Jimjam DMT from the solvent.

Useful to know: If d-limonene is used, the tek will be

''<nowiki>*100% food-safe*</nowiki>'' 

Note:d-limonene still smells very strong and lingers in your house

'''For a first-timer [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Tek_2:_The_Fluffy_White_Funfest Tek 2] may be better advised than Tek 1 because it requires fewer steps and is well-suited for very small test batches like 30g-50g MHRB. I recommend Tek 1 for larger batches.

That being said, both teks are quite simple - comparable to baking a cake.'''

=== A little info on Lime ===
 [[Image:Lime.png]] 

'''The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is a replacement for lye which is very caustic and toxic.'''

lime is known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.

Until recently using caustic and toxic '''Sodium Hydroxide''' (lye, drain cleaner) was the only option as the base when extracting DMT. Lye is very potentially dangerous

These Teks instead use '''Lime'''. '''Lime''' is a powerful base that is actually food safe. It is powerfully alkaline so take care not to get it in your eyes or inhale it and wash your hands after touching it.

There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities. 

'''Here are some tips:'' Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums. So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores.

Local availability varies all the way from none to lots depending on country/location. If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.

If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally. Look on the internet for something and confirm that it is pure Ca(OH)2 before purchasing it from a reputable vendor.

If I haven't made this clear enough, let me end this section with a final clarification:
You MUST use proper lime for this tek to work! Make sure you do, good luck!

== Tek 1: The Jimjam party ==

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:''' 
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

Extraction Specific: 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH) 30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2) 125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark) Some Sealable and shakeable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel one Turkey baster or pipette(HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one Stove or Kettle one Pot or Pan

Useful tools one or more Funnels one Rice cooker one Baking pan/large surface area container one or more razor blades/scrapers one or two high quality mason jars 

Tincture tools one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml) one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses one spoon one lighter/candle/heat source

=== Preparation: ===
 [[Image:Materials.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I highly recommend not skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent: ===
 [[Image:Dlime.jpg]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear d-limonene solvent floating on top

Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted '''''

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g) 

'''Step 2:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:''' mix with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:''' you can just roll the container around in your hands to mix it.

Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

Mix it well several times over 40-60 minutes. (I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

'''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY.'''

'''Step 3:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Note:Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Alternative Next-Steps ===
'''Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method.
There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB (Step 4)] by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead.

'''↓My preferred method is below↓'''

=== Salting with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:IMG_20200528_061727.jpg]]

Cloudy d-limonene floating on top of yellowish vinegar

'''''This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.'''''

Note 1: Xylene and D-Limonene are very leaky, most containers will eventually start leaking during the salting process. I recommend high quality mason jars that you’ve tested the lids to make sure the solvent doesn’t react with.

'''Step 1:''' Pour some vinegar into the sealable container with the solvent. About 2 shot glasses full.

'''Step 2:''' Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefer to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. Emulsions in this step always resolve pretty easily. No need to be careful.

Agitate the container 3-4 times over 40-60 minutes. The solvent will quickly start to get cloudy and the vinegar will gradually get more yellow.

You don’t have to wait until the solvent gets clear, it doesn’t seem to relate to the process being finished.

'''Step 3:''' Use a turkey baster/pipette to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container. As with the other liquid separations, 90% is okay.

Note 2: Try to get as little of the solvent during the separation as possible. This solvent will leave plant oils and other junk in your end product. That being said, a 1mm layer of solvent atop your vinegar is common using this method.

'''Step 4:'''
Repeat steps 1-3 once in exactly the same way, combine the separated vinegar pulls in a sealable container. Keep it safe because any spill will be a loss of lots of DMT!

For those that want DMT as soon as possible, proceed immediately on to the condensing step after Step 4.

'''Step 5:''' For those more patient/lazy, plan for your next non-polar solvent use.

'''The most efficient/least effort extraction:'''

'''Non-polar pull #1''' - 6-8 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #2''' - 24 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #3''' - 48 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the above 3 pulls should contain 80-90% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all of the vinegar from pulls 1-3 and proceed to the condensing step.

'''Non-polar pull #4''' - 1 week after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #5''' - 2-3 weeks after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the 5 pulls together should contain at least 95% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all the vinegar from pulls 4-5 and do another condensing.

=== Condensing/Tincture Making: ===
 [[Image:Condensing.jpg]]

The process of condensing vinegar from light yellow liquid to a dense red tincture

'''This step is just to concentrate the vinegar containing the DMT down to a dense liquid "tincture" which can easily measure dosages by number of drops.'''

The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all of your DMT maintaining a consistent concentration. This tincture will keep indefinitely, I have used the same for 3+ years with no loss of potency.

Note 1: You could technically evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smokeable product. But that would result in a goo which is very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air. I honestly wouldn't recommend it that method though.

'''There are many steps to do in the condensing, so I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar saltings into one because it makes your house smell very vinegary and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times. Moreover, combining tinctures changes their concentrations, requiring re-measuring.'''

'''Step 1:''' Filter the vinegar through a cotton ball in a funnel, then add a bit of water to wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball and pour it all in a pot.

'''Step 2:''' Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 40-50ml

'''Step 3:''' Remove the pot from heat, then use a dropper to carefully filter the liquid through a cotton ball then wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball again with water

'''Step 4:''' Lower the heat to medium low and watch it carefully until it is around starts to become red in color.

Note 2: You can estimate the resulting liquid based on the amount of MHRB used. The combined vinegar from 3 solvent pulls will result in roughly 1tsp/5ml for every 100g MHRB used at 10mg/drop. Generally it's much less liquid than you expect, especially if you're used to dosing with crystals.

'''Step 5:''' As the liquid becomes redder and redder, '''before the liquid is all gone,''' remove the pot from heat, tip the pot to the side and use a dropper to transfer your tincture to a dropper bottle.

'''It is a delicate balance of not removing all liquid, but getting a good concentration. It is best to aim for a little less liquid than a little more for 2 reasons:

You’ll need to rinse the pot with a few mL of water to get all the DMT off, adding additional liquid to the tincture

Adding more liquid is extremely simple, while removing liquid means doing the condensing again.'''

'''A tincture can vary hugely based on a few factors. The color is a simple general indicator of the concentration. Here are pictures of 3 different concentration levels:'''

[[Image:Captude.PNG]]

5mg per drop

[[Image:Capturfde.PNG]]

10mg per drop

[[Image:Captufdare.PNG]]

15mg per drop

More concentration can be done, but tinctures will get thicker and thicker until they are a thick goo (at room temperature) of pure DMT at around 50mg per drop.

For those wanting a more formal measurement of the concentration, proceed on to next optional section.

=== Measuring the tincture: ===
 Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.

Quantitative Concentration (numerical):

- Drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster.

- Put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) '''NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!'''

- Once the liquid has dissolved and it smells strongly, but not of vinegar, turn off the element and let it sit until cool enough to handle.

During the cooling, measure the weight of a razor blade using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.

- Remove the coaster from the element then scrape up the goo with a razor and measured using the scale.

- Subtract the weight of the razor blade then divide the number by 10 and that is the concentration per drop.

- Label the tincture with the concentration.

Note: Don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change!

Qualitative Concentration (subjective): This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca - Use one of the methods from the next section to evaporate 1 drop of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. - If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 2 drops, then 3, 4, etc. until adequate effects are achieved. - Concentration will then be *number* drops = Mild *number* drops = Strong *number* drops = Breakthrough *number* drops = Too Strong!

- Label the tincture with the recommended drops for a dosage.

=== Evaporation and Smoking: ===
 [[Image:Evaporatinsssg.png]]

Preparing a dose using the slow method and smoking DMT off copper using a home-made glass pipe and home-made glass bong

'''''After evaporating all the liquid from some of the tincture you are left with nearly pure DMT acetate goo. DMT acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and decomposes into freebase DMT with heat, so it is readily smokable (and doesn't taste like vinegar)'''''

The Slow and Patient Method

Simply put a number of drops of tincture for a single dose of DMT on your smoking material and let it dry for a few hours before smoking.

'''Smoking materials:'''

Neutral Herb (Mullien, Peppermint)

Maoi Containing Herb (Caapi, Passionflower)

Pre-torched Ceramic Fiber Ball

Pre-Charred Copper Kitchen Scrubber Ball

Silicon Carbide Ceramic Foam

Caution: Vinegar on copper may result in smoking small amounts of copper acetate which is not good for you. I cannot formally recommend this method for long term health without more information/research

The Hot and Quick Method

Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!

'''1: On Glass - Stove/Oven Method'''

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a flat glass coaster (I got my from the dollar store and then removed the rubber feet and glue from the bottom)

- Put the glass onto an electric stove element or into an oven at AS LOW AS POSSIBLE (do not use a gas stovetop)

- After the liquid evaporated and it doesn’t smell of vinegar it is ready. Usually about 1-2 minutes or 5 for fewer drops

- You can either:

a: Scrape up the liquid with a razor blade and transfer it to any smoking material

b: Let the glass cool to the touch then scrape it up with some herb/copper mesh

Note: hot DMT-acetate goo is very liquidy and hard to scrape up, the closer to room temperature it is, the thicker and easier it will be to scrape up.

'''2: With a Spoon - Lighter/Candle Method'''

Note:As much as this method might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a spoon then heat it from below with a lighter or candle flame. Be careful not to heat too quickly or it will spatter and DMT some will be lost.

- Continue to heat until the liquid has all gone and you’re left with a thin red liquidy goo that smells strongly but not of vinegar. A hot spoon will rapidly evaporate excess liquid without a flame below, so you can stop heating slightly before the process is finished.

- Carefully scrape up the goo with some herb/copper mesh. It’s usually best to let it cool for at least 30s before doing so to avoid burning yourself and allowing the goo to cool and thicken.

'''A quick warning about stability.'''

You could make lots of doses ahead of time with the slow or quick method, but DMT-acetate seems somewhat unstable outside the tincture. I have some ongoing tests to assess the stability of DMT in this method. The only 2 data points I have so far are:

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment, 1 week = no potency loss.

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment, 1 month = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 2 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 3 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 6 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 1 year = completely degraded and unsmokable

=== Smoking: ===

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

Whether DMT crystals are melted on it, or DMT-acetate goo is put on them doesn't matter, you create a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50), most of them should work relatively interchangeably with DMT-acetates because the crystals are usually melted into a goo before smoking anyway.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 1 ===
You'll need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)
 Dropper Bottle
 Hot Plate/Stovetop
 Copper Kitchen Scrubber
 Turkey baster/pipette (solvent-safe!)

First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick tomato soup.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Add 150ml or more xylene or d-Limonene for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent, this is normal.
Stir the solvent around all the bark-mush. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes.

Gently pour off the solvent (might need to filter it) into a separate solvent-safe container.

Add 2 shot-glasses of vinegar into the solvent and agitate it a few times over 40-50 minutes

Use a turkey baster/pipette to separate the vinegar at the bottom to a separate container then repeat one more time with fresh vinegar

Put the solvent back on the bark-mush. I recommend pouring it off and doing the vinegar step at 1 day and 2 days, early pulls will yield less.

Combine all the vinegar pulls you have and carefully evaporate them until they start turning red. (you can optionally filter it)

Look at the condensing step for a color reference for a good concentration. It is most likely going to be much less liquid than you expect as it is very potent.

Transfer the liquid to a dropper bottle. Now you have a liquid that can be measured by number of drops and when evaporated (with or without heat) leaves a red goo which is readily smokable DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Scrub up the DMT with the ball and it can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

----

== Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest ==

=== About Naphtha ===
 Naphtha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though its toxicity is quite benign. '''Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.''' The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naphtha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.

Plus 2 things: 1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple of hours. 2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.

Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.

If you are in the US then VM+P Naphtha is your choice. If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices. If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it: 1. Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs) 2. Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.

(What your product will could like if you follow the tek) [[Image:Spicee.jpg]]

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:'''
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the naphtha and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority of problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

 Two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naphtha won't dissolve/degrade) one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best) one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation one freezer 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH) Some Lime Ca(OH)2 100ml or more Naphtha one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)

Useful tools a few Playing cards one or more razor blades/scrapers Some coffee filters 

=== Preparation: ===
[[Image:Materials2.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I highly recommend not skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Naphtha'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Naphtha: ===
 [[Image:Napthaandgoo.JPG]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear naphtha solvent floating on top

'''Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naphtha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted.'''

Caution: Naphtha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do all of the following in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Get a large bowl that your bark-mush container/bowl can easily fit in. Place your container/bowl inside the bottom bowl then add boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the container/bowl or as close to that as possible. This will warm the bark mush indirectly and safely.

'''Step 2:''' Once the bark mush has been thoroughly warmed (it does not need to be hot, just nicely warm), add 1ml naphtha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naphtha or more for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 3:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Stir the bark-mush around to contact the solvent with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Danger: Warm naphtha produces lots of expanding fumes, so you MUST vent it frequently whenever it is closed and if you are using something that may shatter, put on gloves and safety glasses.

When the bark-naphtha mush has been warmed, but is not too hot to handle, seal the container and roll the container around in your hands to mix it. Regularly open the container to vent the pressure from the warm naphtha. Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

For either the bowl or the container, mix well several times over 40-60 minutes,(I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

Place the container/bowl in the hot water when you’re not mixing. Feel the outside of the bowl/container with the bark-mush from time to time and if it is no longer warm then you can replace/add more boiling water in the bowl underneath.

'''Step 4:''' Clean and dry your precipitation container

I find it easiest to work with a small glass cake-baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals. You can use any naphtha-safe container though, the crystals sometimes float around in plastic containers, but not always.

'''Step 5:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container, DRY THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Once your solvent is in you precipication container, proceed to the next step. If you see some clear liquid (water) under your naphtha, this is not good for the next step. Add the solvent back to the bark and immediately do the seperation again more carefully.

Note: Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Precipitation/Crystallization: ===
 [[Image:Spices.JPG]]

The first pull of naphtha from 500g of MHRB after being in the freezer overnight

'''This step works on the principal that naphtha can dissolve DMT-freebase quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naphtha with DMT-freebase dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.'''

'''Step 1:''' Just pop your precipitation container straight into the freezer. If the naphtha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry this is normal. The naphtha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow, especially on the first pull.

Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but although naphtha smells pretty strong, it doesn't linger too long like d-limonene or xylene.

'''Step 3:''' Keep the naphtha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming. If the naphtha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT-freebase molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.

'''Step 4:''' Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take your precipitation container out of the freezer and very gently pour off the naphtha back into your bark-mush.
Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors) place to lean your precipitation container against, the few drops of excess naphtha will drip off and all of the naphtha surrounding the crystals will evaporate in a couple of hours. Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, however usually just SLOWLY pouring the naphtha off works fine. You may use a coffee filter to catch them if you prefer.

'''Once your container no longer smells like naphtha the DMT-freebase is ready! Scrape them up with a razor or a small spoon and put in a small sealable container or baggie for storage. Keep it in a COOL DRY PLACE because DMT crystals will simply melt on a hot day'''

'''Additional Naphtha Pulls:'''

As I mentioned before, there are recommended timings for pulling with naphtha, but they are planned so you don't need to use extra solvent.
My recommended proceedure is as follows:

Warm and Pull either immediately or at 6-8 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 24 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 48 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''The above 3 pulls should total 80-90% of the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Warm and Pull at 1 week after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 2-3 after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''All 5 pulls together should contain 95% or more than the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Final Notes on Extracting with Tek 2:

- The solvent and the crystals will usually be more yellow with each pull. You won't notice the difference when smoking yellow DMT vs white DMT though. Also, your DMT crystals will often turn more yellow over long periods of time.

- There may be a small film underneath the crystals. I am pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT which are both readily smokable and psychoactive like the white DMT crystals.

- You can do a re-crystallization for larger crystals (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Recrystallization)

- If the first 2 pulls don't cloud or precipitate crystals after 8-12 hours then check something in the extraction did not work correctly. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Common_issues.2FTroubleshooting Common issues/Troubleshooting] because that should not happen.

- Technically you can make a tincture from Tek 2 by salting the naphtha with vinegar or dissolving the crystals in vinegar. This will produce a beautiful amber-colored liquid that can be measured in 2-3 drops rather than with a scale. This is my prefered method, but I know everyone loves pretty crystals, so this might take some of the magic out of Tek 2 for many people.

=== Smoking: ===

[[Image:IMG 20200703 121449.jpg]]

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So I can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

You just gently put a single dose of your DMT crystals on the ball then warm it with a ligher until they have melted and coated the metal and you've created a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50)explore and find your favorite one.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 2 ===
You need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 Naphtha
 Freezer

In a bowl, mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of MHRB is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick porridge.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Use a bowl underneath containing hot water to warm your bark mush.
Add about 100ml naphtha for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush.
Stir the naphtha around all the bark. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes, making sure the bark mush is kept warm the whole time.

Wipe the bottom of your bowl dry, then gently pour off the naphtha into a container which will go in the freezer (optionally through a coffee filter to catch sediment). I use an 8 inch pyrex cake pan.
If the naphtha is at a low level in the container you may want to wrap it in saran wrap to prevent evaporation.

In a couple of hours the naphtha should get cloudy. Slowly over 8-12 hours the DMT will precipitate out of the naphtha and form crystals on the container.
When the naphtha is no longer cloudy then gently pour the naphtha off the crystals and back into your bark mush (you may use a coffee filter if you prefer).
Put the container on its side to allow the naphtha to evaporate. Keep it out of the sunlight because the crystals will melt into a goo at about 40C or so.

When the crystals no longer smell of naphtha they are ready to smoke or whatever. Keep in a dime bag or something. STORE IN A COOL DRY PLACE TO AVOID MELTING!

Your first pull will only contain a portion of the total DMT, I recommend warming the naphtha, seperating and crystallizing again at 1 day, 2 days, 1 week and 2-3 weeks. Each pull will yeild less DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Put a dose of DMT crystals gently on the ball, then slowly heat it until they have all melted into it. At that point the ball can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

== Common issues/Troubleshooting ==

The teks are pretty comprehensive, so as long as you follow the steps you can expect success.

There are 5 likely causes of no DMT or very small yields of DMT. Each of them has to do with the quality of your core extraction materials:

'''1. Your Lime is not Calcium Hydroxide'''

This will mean that the PH of your basified bark mush is not low enough to convert the DMT-acetate to DMT freebase. Adding lime and water to the mix may fix this, but it depends on what your previous "lime" was.

'''2. Your Solvent was not the D-limonene/Xylene/Naphtha that was mentioned in the Teks.'''

This will result in either no DMT being dissolved in the solvent, the solvent mixing with the bark, no precipitation of DMT, no salting of DMT or maybe something else. Most of these will result in unsalvageable Teks, so I hope you don't have this issue.

'''3. Your MHRB is not MHRB'''

This basically means you have no DMT to extract, so there is no solution to this issue other than getting yourself real MHRB

'''4: Your MHRB is not powdered'''

I have tried about 5x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and got a maximum of 5% the yield as powdered bark. If you have unused bark, you can try to powder it in a really strong blender, but most blenders can't powder MHRB. It might be better to just do a lye tek with your MHRB

'''5. Your vinegar is not 5% acetic acid'''

This will result in a successful, but 5x slower tek as it makes it a lime STB. You will have to wait much longer for the lime to work on the MHRB, but you just need patience and you'll get a full yield

 '''Good luck in all your life's endeavors! '''

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Limtek]]
[[Category:Acid/Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]

Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek

2020-07-07T08:44:04Z

Q21q21:

This tek is not Q21Q21's original idea but rather a culmination of many people's ideas. It is NOT perfect so if you can think of a better way to do ANY part of it then try it and PM me if it works! The tek is written in first person but they are Q21Q21's words.

(Q21Q21 being a fictional alien entity... with internet access)'''

 This tek was inspired by: '''Blueskine''' whose idea for freebasing acetates with heat changed my life! '''Noman''' whose tek on erowid inspired my first extraction '''69ron''' and his mescaline tek that taught me the power of lime '''amor_fati''' whose tek inspired me to try a vinegar step and made the tek over 10x faster '''SyZyGyPSy''' was the first person to report using limonene to extract spice '''Anyone whose post was read and forgot who posted it, you all helped.''' '''Lye''' which is so toxic and nasty.

_____________________
== Introduction ==

'''As a comprehensive guide there's lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.'''

'''If you would like to get right into the "What do I do?" then you can start by reading the Super-short Compressed Tek. (Then the full tek later)
'''
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_1 Tek 1 (Uses xylene/d-limonene)]
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_2 Tek 2 (Uses naphtha)]

== Background Information ==

=== The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark ===

While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis (abbreviated as MHRB)

[[image:MHRBthing.png]]

Mimosa Hostilis Plant, Whole Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark (MHRB), Shredded MHRB, Powdered MHRB

Mimosa Hostilis is a shrub that contains '''N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' and 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids (and some TINY amounts of NMT) in its root-bark . 

Discussions about suppliers of MHRB are no longer allowed on the DMT-Nexus, so it's best to do outside-Nexus searches for suppliers.

'''An extremely important note''' is that I have tried about 10x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and failed each time. Powdered MHRB is the only thing I'd recommend to buy as most blenders cannot powder MHRB properly.

=== Info about the 3 types of DMT contained in MHRB ===

Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information. '''Methods:''' [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Pharmahuasca Pharmahuasca], [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Guide_to_Mucosahuasca Mucosahuasca] or [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17873 Smoking]

''' White N-N-DMT'''
 
 [[Image:Crystals.JPG]] White DMT I extracted using Tek 2

'''White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' is pure DMT. MHRB usually contains about 1% of its weight in '''White DMT''', though yields from extractions of less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.

In the past the ultimate goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just '''White DMT''' in it. 

'''Red "Jungle" DMT'''

[[Image:SANY0069.JPG]] Thick dark red Jungle DMT extracted from by fully depleting the MHRB using naphtha, then pulling with xylene

"Jungle" DMT is also contained in the bark but cannot be extracted into crystals like '''White DMT'''

Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produces effects similar in duration and effects to '''White DMT'''. 
I strongly believe the yellow DMT which MANY people prefer to pure '''White DMT''' is in fact small amounts of Jungle DMT mixed with the '''White DMT.''' I think the cause of this is because Jungle DMT is ever so slightly soluble in naphtha.
An [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=156691 analysis] was done on this Jungle DMT and it is mostly (95%) DMT. Nonetheless I and many others still believe Jungle DMT produces noticeably different effects.

'''Yellow DMT-N-oxide'''

[[Image:SANY0050.JPG]] Crystallized DMT-N-oxide made with peroxide and white DMT

DMT-N-oxide was previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, but in fact Oxides seems unlikely to be present in the extracted DMT in significant amounts at all. (as I mentioned I believe that yellow is Jungle DMT)
 I and many others have smoked DMT which has been in ambient air for months/years without any significant loss of potency. 
Considering my tests (using the Oxides in the picture) suggest Oxides are about 1/3 or less potent than '''white DMT''' or jungle DMT when smoked (waiting on replication of this test to be positive though) then I conclude Oxides are insignificant and need not be worried about.

'''Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product'''

[[Image:Capture.PNG]]

Jimjam DMT I extracted using Tek 1 with d-limonene

If all the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum product called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during Tek 1.

Jimjam is considered by many to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though yields from extractions of more than 2% are not unheard of.

DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like Jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries - make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.

=== About the 2 teks ===
 [[Image:Suolvents.png]] 

Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naphtha they will be referred to as "the solvent"

In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used. '''Tek 2''' uses '''naphtha''' (lighter fluid) while
Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner but also used to dissolve HIPS 3D-printing supports)

(Vegetable oil can also apparently be used for Tek 1, you can search the Nexus for the many long threads talking about using it as a solvent)

'''Naphtha''' needs to be heated to dissolve or else it won't dissolve anything but its unique solubility properties allow for '''White DMT''' to be crystallized out when it is cooled in a freezer.
'''Tek 2''' thus involves a heating-step and a freezer-step that Tek 1 does not have. However, naphtha does not dissolve Jungle DMT very well so the extracted product will be almost entirely '''white DMT''' and leave the Jungle DMT in the MHRB.

d-limonene and xylene dissolve both '''white DMT''' and Jungle DMT at room temperate so Tek 1 doesn't need a heating step. Because of that it will yield full-spectrum product Jimjam DMT but since it is soluble, even when the solvent is cold, freezer precipitation doesn't work, so one of many different methods can be used to isolate the Jimjam DMT from the solvent.

Useful to know: If d-limonene is used, the tek will be

''<nowiki>*100% food-safe*</nowiki>'' 

Note:d-limonene still smells very strong and lingers in your house

'''For a first-timer [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Tek_2:_The_Fluffy_White_Funfest Tek 2] may be better advised than Tek 1 because it requires fewer steps and is well-suited for very small test batches like 30g-50g MHRB. I recommend Tek 1 for larger batches.

That being said, both teks are quite simple - comparable to baking a cake.'''

=== A little info on Lime ===
 [[Image:Lime.png]] 

'''The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is a replacement for lye which is very caustic and toxic.'''

lime is known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.

Until recently using caustic and toxic '''Sodium Hydroxide''' (lye, drain cleaner) was the only option as the base when extracting DMT. Lye is very potentially dangerous

These Teks instead use '''Lime'''. '''Lime''' is a powerful base that is actually food safe. It is powerfully alkaline so take care not to get it in your eyes or inhale it and wash your hands after touching it.

There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities. 

'''Here are some tips:'' Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums. So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores.

Local availability varies all the way from none to lots depending on country/location. If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.

If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally. Look on the internet for something and confirm that it is pure Ca(OH)2 before purchasing it from a reputable vendor.

If I haven't made this clear enough, let me end this section with a final clarification:
You MUST use proper lime for this tek to work! Make sure you do, good luck!

== Tek 1: The Jimjam party ==

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:''' 
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

Extraction Specific: 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH) 30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2) 125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark) Some Sealable and shakeable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel one Turkey baster or pipette(HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one Stove or Kettle one Pot or Pan

Useful tools one or more Funnels one Rice cooker one Baking pan/large surface area container one or more razor blades/scrapers one or two high quality mason jars 

Tincture tools one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml) one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses one spoon one lighter/candle/heat source

=== Preparation: ===
 [[Image:Materials.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I highly recommend not skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent: ===
 [[Image:Dlime.jpg]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear d-limonene solvent floating on top

Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted '''''

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g) 

'''Step 2:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:''' mix with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:''' you can just roll the container around in your hands to mix it.

Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

Mix it well several times over 40-60 minutes. (I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

'''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY.'''

'''Step 3:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Note:Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Alternative Next-Steps ===
'''Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method.
There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB (Step 4)] by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead.

'''↓My preferred method is below↓'''

=== Salting with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:IMG_20200528_061727.jpg]]

Cloudy d-limonene floating on top of yellowish vinegar

'''''This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.'''''

Note 1: Xylene and D-Limonene are very leaky, most containers will eventually start leaking during the salting process. I recommend high quality mason jars that you’ve tested the lids to make sure the solvent doesn’t react with.

'''Step 1:''' Pour some vinegar into the sealable container with the solvent. About 2 shot glasses full.

'''Step 2:''' Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefer to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. Emulsions in this step always resolve pretty easily. No need to be careful.

Agitate the container 3-4 times over 40-60 minutes. The solvent will quickly start to get cloudy and the vinegar will gradually get more yellow.

You don’t have to wait until the solvent gets clear, it doesn’t seem to relate to the process being finished.

'''Step 3:''' Use a turkey baster/pipette to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container. As with the other liquid separations, 90% is okay.

Note 2: Try to get as little of the solvent during the separation as possible. This solvent will leave plant oils and other junk in your end product. That being said, a 1mm layer of solvent atop your vinegar is common using this method.

'''Step 4:'''
Repeat steps 1-3 once in exactly the same way, combine the separated vinegar pulls in a sealable container. Keep it safe because any spill will be a loss of lots of DMT!

For those that want DMT as soon as possible, proceed immediately on to the condensing step after Step 4.

'''Step 5:''' For those more patient/lazy, plan for your next non-polar solvent use.

'''The most efficient/least effort extraction:'''

'''Non-polar pull #1''' - 6-8 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #2''' - 24 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #3''' - 48 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the above 3 pulls should contain 80-90% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all of the vinegar from pulls 1-3 and proceed to the condensing step.

'''Non-polar pull #4''' - 1 week after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #5''' - 2-3 weeks after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the 5 pulls together should contain at least 95% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all the vinegar from pulls 4-5 and do another condensing.

=== Condensing/Tincture Making: ===
 [[Image:Condensing.jpg]]

The process of condensing vinegar from light yellow liquid to a dense red tincture

'''This step is just to concentrate the vinegar containing the DMT down to a dense liquid "tincture" which can easily measure dosages by number of drops.'''

The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all of your DMT maintaining a consistent concentration. This tincture will keep indefinitely, I have used the same for 3+ years with no loss of potency.

Note 1: You could technically evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smokeable product. But that would result in a goo which is very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air. I honestly wouldn't recommend it that method though.

'''There are many steps to do in the condensing, so I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar saltings into one because it makes your house smell very vinegary and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times. Moreover, combining tinctures changes their concentrations, requiring re-measuring.'''

'''Step 1:''' Filter the vinegar through a cotton ball in a funnel, then add a bit of water to wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball and pour it all in a pot.

'''Step 2:''' Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 40-50ml

'''Step 3:''' Remove the pot from heat, then use a dropper to carefully filter the liquid through a cotton ball then wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball again with water

'''Step 4:''' Lower the heat to medium low and watch it carefully until it is around starts to become red in color.

Note 2: You can estimate the resulting liquid based on the amount of MHRB used. The combined vinegar from 3 solvent pulls will result in roughly 1tsp/5ml for every 100g MHRB used at 10mg/drop. Generally it's much less liquid than you expect, especially if you're used to dosing with crystals.

'''Step 5:''' As the liquid becomes redder and redder, '''before the liquid is all gone,''' remove the pot from heat, tip the pot to the side and use a dropper to transfer your tincture to a dropper bottle.

'''It is a delicate balance of not removing all liquid, but getting a good concentration. It is best to aim for a little less liquid than a little more for 2 reasons:

You’ll need to rinse the pot with a few mL of water to get all the DMT off, adding additional liquid to the tincture

Adding more liquid is extremely simple, while removing liquid means doing the condensing again.'''

'''A tincture can vary hugely based on a few factors. The color is a simple general indicator of the concentration. Here are pictures of 3 different concentration levels:'''

[[Image:Captude.PNG]]

5mg per drop

[[Image:Capturfde.PNG]]

10mg per drop

[[Image:Captufdare.PNG]]

15mg per drop

More concentration can be done, but tinctures will get thicker and thicker until they are a thick goo (at room temperature) of pure DMT at around 50mg per drop.

For those wanting a more formal measurement of the concentration, proceed on to next optional section.

=== Measuring the tincture: ===
 Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.

Quantitative Concentration (numerical):

- Drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster.

- Put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) '''NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!'''

- Once the liquid has dissolved and it smells strongly, but not of vinegar, turn off the element and let it sit until cool enough to handle.

During the cooling, measure the weight of a razor blade using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.

- Remove the coaster from the element then scrape up the goo with a razor and measured using the scale.

- Subtract the weight of the razor blade then divide the number by 10 and that is the concentration per drop.

- Label the tincture with the concentration.

Note: Don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change!

Qualitative Concentration (subjective): This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca - Use one of the methods from the next section to evaporate 1 drop of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. - If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 2 drops, then 3, 4, etc. until adequate effects are achieved. - Concentration will then be *number* drops = Mild *number* drops = Strong *number* drops = Breakthrough *number* drops = Too Strong!

- Label the tincture with the recommended drops for a dosage.

=== Evaporation and Smoking: ===
 [[Image:Evaporatinsssg.png]]

Preparing a dose using the slow method and smoking DMT off copper using a home-made glass pipe and home-made glass bong

'''''After evaporating all the liquid from some of the tincture you are left with nearly pure DMT acetate goo. DMT acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and decomposes into freebase DMT with heat, so it is readily smokable (and doesn't taste like vinegar)'''''

The Slow and Patient Method

Simply put a number of drops of tincture for a single dose of DMT on your smoking material and let it dry for a few hours before smoking.

'''Smoking materials:'''

Neutral Herb (Mullien, Peppermint)

Maoi Containing Herb (Caapi, Passionflower)

Pre-torched Ceramic Fiber Ball

Pre-Charred Copper Kitchen Scrubber Ball

Caution: Vinegar on copper may result in smoking small amounts of copper acetate which is not good for you. I cannot formally recommend this method for long term health without more information/research

The Hot and Quick Method

Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!

'''1: On Glass - Stove/Oven Method'''

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a flat glass coaster (I got my from the dollar store and then removed the rubber feet and glue from the bottom)

- Put the glass onto an electric stove element or into an oven at AS LOW AS POSSIBLE (do not use a gas stovetop)

- After the liquid evaporated and it doesn’t smell of vinegar it is ready. Usually about 1-2 minutes or 5 for fewer drops

- You can either:

a: Scrape up the liquid with a razor blade and transfer it to any smoking material

b: Let the glass cool to the touch then scrape it up with some herb/copper mesh

Note: hot DMT-acetate goo is very liquidy and hard to scrape up, the closer to room temperature it is, the thicker and easier it will be to scrape up.

'''2: With a Spoon - Lighter/Candle Method'''

Note:As much as this method might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a spoon then heat it from below with a lighter or candle flame. Be careful not to heat too quickly or it will spatter and DMT some will be lost.

- Continue to heat until the liquid has all gone and you’re left with a thin red liquidy goo that smells strongly but not of vinegar. A hot spoon will rapidly evaporate excess liquid without a flame below, so you can stop heating slightly before the process is finished.

- Carefully scrape up the goo with some herb/copper mesh. It’s usually best to let it cool for at least 30s before doing so to avoid burning yourself and allowing the goo to cool and thicken.

'''A quick warning about stability.'''

You could make lots of doses ahead of time with the slow or quick method, but DMT-acetate seems somewhat unstable outside the tincture. I have some ongoing tests to assess the stability of DMT in this method. The only 2 data points I have so far are:

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment, 1 week = no potency loss.

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment, 1 month = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 2 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 3 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 6 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 1 year = completely degraded and unsmokable

=== Smoking: ===

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

Whether DMT crystals are melted on it, or DMT-acetate goo is put on them doesn't matter, you create a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50), most of them should work relatively interchangeably with DMT-acetates because the crystals are usually melted into a goo before smoking anyway.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 1 ===
You'll need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)
 Dropper Bottle
 Hot Plate/Stovetop
 Copper Kitchen Scrubber
 Turkey baster/pipette (solvent-safe!)

First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick tomato soup.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Add 150ml or more xylene or d-Limonene for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent, this is normal.
Stir the solvent around all the bark-mush. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes.

Gently pour off the solvent (might need to filter it) into a separate solvent-safe container.

Add 2 shot-glasses of vinegar into the solvent and agitate it a few times over 40-50 minutes

Use a turkey baster/pipette to separate the vinegar at the bottom to a separate container then repeat one more time with fresh vinegar

Put the solvent back on the bark-mush. I recommend pouring it off and doing the vinegar step at 1 day and 2 days, early pulls will yield less.

Combine all the vinegar pulls you have and carefully evaporate them until they start turning red. (you can optionally filter it)

Look at the condensing step for a color reference for a good concentration. It is most likely going to be much less liquid than you expect as it is very potent.

Transfer the liquid to a dropper bottle. Now you have a liquid that can be measured by number of drops and when evaporated (with or without heat) leaves a red goo which is readily smokable DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Scrub up the DMT with the ball and it can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

----

== Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest ==

=== About Naphtha ===
 Naphtha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though its toxicity is quite benign. '''Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.''' The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naphtha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.

Plus 2 things: 1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple of hours. 2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.

Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.

If you are in the US then VM+P Naphtha is your choice. If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices. If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it: 1. Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs) 2. Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.

(What your product will could like if you follow the tek) [[Image:Spicee.jpg]]

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:'''
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the naphtha and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority of problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

 Two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naphtha won't dissolve/degrade) one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best) one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation one freezer 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH) Some Lime Ca(OH)2 100ml or more Naphtha one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)

Useful tools a few Playing cards one or more razor blades/scrapers Some coffee filters 

=== Preparation: ===
[[Image:Materials2.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I highly recommend not skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Naphtha'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Naphtha: ===
 [[Image:Napthaandgoo.JPG]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear naphtha solvent floating on top

'''Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naphtha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted.'''

Caution: Naphtha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do all of the following in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Get a large bowl that your bark-mush container/bowl can easily fit in. Place your container/bowl inside the bottom bowl then add boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the container/bowl or as close to that as possible. This will warm the bark mush indirectly and safely.

'''Step 2:''' Once the bark mush has been thoroughly warmed (it does not need to be hot, just nicely warm), add 1ml naphtha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naphtha or more for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 3:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Stir the bark-mush around to contact the solvent with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Danger: Warm naphtha produces lots of expanding fumes, so you MUST vent it frequently whenever it is closed and if you are using something that may shatter, put on gloves and safety glasses.

When the bark-naphtha mush has been warmed, but is not too hot to handle, seal the container and roll the container around in your hands to mix it. Regularly open the container to vent the pressure from the warm naphtha. Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

For either the bowl or the container, mix well several times over 40-60 minutes,(I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

Place the container/bowl in the hot water when you’re not mixing. Feel the outside of the bowl/container with the bark-mush from time to time and if it is no longer warm then you can replace/add more boiling water in the bowl underneath.

'''Step 4:''' Clean and dry your precipitation container

I find it easiest to work with a small glass cake-baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals. You can use any naphtha-safe container though, the crystals sometimes float around in plastic containers, but not always.

'''Step 5:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container, DRY THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Once your solvent is in you precipication container, proceed to the next step. If you see some clear liquid (water) under your naphtha, this is not good for the next step. Add the solvent back to the bark and immediately do the seperation again more carefully.

Note: Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Precipitation/Crystallization: ===
 [[Image:Spices.JPG]]

The first pull of naphtha from 500g of MHRB after being in the freezer overnight

'''This step works on the principal that naphtha can dissolve DMT-freebase quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naphtha with DMT-freebase dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.'''

'''Step 1:''' Just pop your precipitation container straight into the freezer. If the naphtha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry this is normal. The naphtha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow, especially on the first pull.

Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but although naphtha smells pretty strong, it doesn't linger too long like d-limonene or xylene.

'''Step 3:''' Keep the naphtha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming. If the naphtha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT-freebase molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.

'''Step 4:''' Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take your precipitation container out of the freezer and very gently pour off the naphtha back into your bark-mush.
Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors) place to lean your precipitation container against, the few drops of excess naphtha will drip off and all of the naphtha surrounding the crystals will evaporate in a couple of hours. Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, however usually just SLOWLY pouring the naphtha off works fine. You may use a coffee filter to catch them if you prefer.

'''Once your container no longer smells like naphtha the DMT-freebase is ready! Scrape them up with a razor or a small spoon and put in a small sealable container or baggie for storage. Keep it in a COOL DRY PLACE because DMT crystals will simply melt on a hot day'''

'''Additional Naphtha Pulls:'''

As I mentioned before, there are recommended timings for pulling with naphtha, but they are planned so you don't need to use extra solvent.
My recommended proceedure is as follows:

Warm and Pull either immediately or at 6-8 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 24 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 48 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''The above 3 pulls should total 80-90% of the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Warm and Pull at 1 week after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 2-3 after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''All 5 pulls together should contain 95% or more than the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Final Notes on Extracting with Tek 2:

- The solvent and the crystals will usually be more yellow with each pull. You won't notice the difference when smoking yellow DMT vs white DMT though. Also, your DMT crystals will often turn more yellow over long periods of time.

- There may be a small film underneath the crystals. I am pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT which are both readily smokable and psychoactive like the white DMT crystals.

- You can do a re-crystallization for larger crystals (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Recrystallization)

- If the first 2 pulls don't cloud or precipitate crystals after 8-12 hours then check something in the extraction did not work correctly. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Common_issues.2FTroubleshooting Common issues/Troubleshooting] because that should not happen.

- Technically you can make a tincture from Tek 2 by salting the naphtha with vinegar or dissolving the crystals in vinegar. This will produce a beautiful amber-colored liquid that can be measured in 2-3 drops rather than with a scale. This is my prefered method, but I know everyone loves pretty crystals, so this might take some of the magic out of Tek 2 for many people.

=== Smoking: ===

[[Image:IMG 20200703 121449.jpg]]

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So I can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

You just gently put a single dose of your DMT crystals on the ball then warm it with a ligher until they have melted and coated the metal and you've created a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50)explore and find your favorite one.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 2 ===
You need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 Naphtha
 Freezer

In a bowl, mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of MHRB is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick porridge.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Use a bowl underneath containing hot water to warm your bark mush.
Add about 100ml naphtha for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush.
Stir the naphtha around all the bark. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes, making sure the bark mush is kept warm the whole time.

Wipe the bottom of your bowl dry, then gently pour off the naphtha into a container which will go in the freezer (optionally through a coffee filter to catch sediment). I use an 8 inch pyrex cake pan.
If the naphtha is at a low level in the container you may want to wrap it in saran wrap to prevent evaporation.

In a couple of hours the naphtha should get cloudy. Slowly over 8-12 hours the DMT will precipitate out of the naphtha and form crystals on the container.
When the naphtha is no longer cloudy then gently pour the naphtha off the crystals and back into your bark mush (you may use a coffee filter if you prefer).
Put the container on its side to allow the naphtha to evaporate. Keep it out of the sunlight because the crystals will melt into a goo at about 40C or so.

When the crystals no longer smell of naphtha they are ready to smoke or whatever. Keep in a dime bag or something. STORE IN A COOL DRY PLACE TO AVOID MELTING!

Your first pull will only contain a portion of the total DMT, I recommend warming the naphtha, seperating and crystallizing again at 1 day, 2 days, 1 week and 2-3 weeks. Each pull will yeild less DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Put a dose of DMT crystals gently on the ball, then slowly heat it until they have all melted into it. At that point the ball can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

== Common issues/Troubleshooting ==

The teks are pretty comprehensive, so as long as you follow the steps you can expect success.

There are 5 likely causes of no DMT or very small yields of DMT. Each of them has to do with the quality of your core extraction materials:

'''1. Your Lime is not Calcium Hydroxide'''

This will mean that the PH of your basified bark mush is not low enough to convert the DMT-acetate to DMT freebase. Adding lime and water to the mix may fix this, but it depends on what your previous "lime" was.

'''2. Your Solvent was not the D-limonene/Xylene/Naphtha that was mentioned in the Teks.'''

This will result in either no DMT being dissolved in the solvent, the solvent mixing with the bark, no precipitation of DMT, no salting of DMT or maybe something else. Most of these will result in unsalvageable Teks, so I hope you don't have this issue.

'''3. Your MHRB is not MHRB'''

This basically means you have no DMT to extract, so there is no solution to this issue other than getting yourself real MHRB

'''4: Your MHRB is not powdered'''

I have tried about 5x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and got a maximum of 5% the yield as powdered bark. If you have unused bark, you can try to powder it in a really strong blender, but most blenders can't powder MHRB. It might be better to just do a lye tek with your MHRB

'''5. Your vinegar is not 5% acetic acid'''

This will result in a successful, but 5x slower tek as it makes it a lime STB. You will have to wait much longer for the lime to work on the MHRB, but you just need patience and you'll get a full yield

 '''Good luck in all your life's endeavors! '''

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Limtek]]
[[Category:Acid/Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]

Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek

2020-07-06T10:37:57Z

Q21q21:

This tek is not Q21Q21's original idea but rather a culmination of many people's ideas. It is NOT perfect so if you can think of a better way to do ANY part of it then try it and PM me if it works! The tek is written in first person but they are Q21Q21's words.

(Q21Q21 being a fictional alien entity... with internet access)'''

 This tek was inspired by: '''Blueskine''' whose idea for freebasing acetates with heat changed my life! '''Noman''' whose tek on erowid inspired my first extraction '''69ron''' and his mescaline tek that taught me the power of lime '''amor_fati''' whose tek inspired me to try a vinegar step and made the tek over 10x faster '''SyZyGyPSy''' was the first person to report using limonene to extract spice '''Anyone whose post was read and forgot who posted it, you all helped.''' '''Lye''' which is so toxic and nasty.

_____________________
== Introduction ==

'''As a comprehensive guide there's lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.'''

'''If you would like to get right into the "What do I do?" then you can start by reading the Super-short Compressed Tek. (Then the full tek later)
'''
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_1 Tek 1 (Uses xylene/d-limonene)]
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_2 Tek 2 (Uses naphtha)]

== Background Information ==

=== The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark ===

While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis (abbreviated as MHRB)

[[image:MHRBthing.png]]

Mimosa Hostilis Plant, Whole Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark (MHRB), Shredded MHRB, Powdered MHRB

Mimosa Hostilis is a shrub that contains '''N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' and 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids (and some TINY amounts of NMT) in its root-bark . 

Discussions about suppliers of MHRB are no longer allowed on the DMT-Nexus, so it's best to do outside-Nexus searches for suppliers.

'''An extremely important note''' is that I have tried about 10x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and failed each time. Powdered MHRB is the only thing I'd recommend to buy as most blenders cannot powder MHRB properly.

=== Info about the 3 types of DMT contained in MHRB ===

Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information. '''Methods:''' [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Pharmahuasca Pharmahuasca], [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Guide_to_Mucosahuasca Mucosahuasca] or [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17873 Smoking]

''' White N-N-DMT'''
 
 [[Image:Crystals.JPG]] White DMT I extracted using Tek 2

'''White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' is pure DMT. MHRB usually contains about 1% of its weight in '''White DMT''', though yields from extractions of less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.

In the past the ultimate goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just '''White DMT''' in it. 

'''Red "Jungle" DMT'''

[[Image:SANY0069.JPG]] Thick dark red Jungle DMT extracted from by fully depleting the MHRB using naphtha, then pulling with xylene

"Jungle" DMT is also contained in the bark but cannot be extracted into crystals like '''White DMT'''

Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produces effects similar in duration and effects to '''White DMT'''. 
I strongly believe the yellow DMT which MANY people prefer to pure '''White DMT''' is in fact small amounts of Jungle DMT mixed with the '''White DMT.''' I think the cause of this is because Jungle DMT is ever so slightly soluble in naphtha.
An [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=156691 analysis] was done on this Jungle DMT and it is mostly (95%) DMT. Nonetheless I and many others still believe Jungle DMT produces noticeably different effects.

'''Yellow DMT-N-oxide'''

[[Image:SANY0050.JPG]] Crystallized DMT-N-oxide made with peroxide and white DMT

DMT-N-oxide was previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, but in fact Oxides seems unlikely to be present in the extracted DMT in significant amounts at all. (as I mentioned I believe that yellow is Jungle DMT)
 I and many others have smoked DMT which has been in ambient air for months/years without any significant loss of potency. 
Considering my tests (using the Oxides in the picture) suggest Oxides are about 1/3 or less potent than '''white DMT''' or jungle DMT when smoked (waiting on replication of this test to be positive though) then I conclude Oxides are insignificant and need not be worried about.

'''Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product'''

[[Image:Capture.PNG]]

Jimjam DMT I extracted using Tek 1 with d-limonene

If all the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum product called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during Tek 1.

Jimjam is considered by many to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though yields from extractions of more than 2% are not unheard of.

DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like Jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries - make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.

=== About the 2 teks ===
 [[Image:Suolvents.png]] 

Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naphtha they will be referred to as "the solvent"

In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used. '''Tek 2''' uses '''naphtha''' (lighter fluid) while
Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner but also used to dissolve HIPS 3D-printing supports)

(Vegetable oil can also apparently be used for Tek 1, you can search the Nexus for the many long threads talking about using it as a solvent)

'''Naphtha''' needs to be heated to dissolve or else it won't dissolve anything but its unique solubility properties allow for '''White DMT''' to be crystallized out when it is cooled in a freezer.
'''Tek 2''' thus involves a heating-step and a freezer-step that Tek 1 does not have. However, naphtha does not dissolve Jungle DMT very well so the extracted product will be almost entirely '''white DMT''' and leave the Jungle DMT in the MHRB.

d-limonene and xylene dissolve both '''white DMT''' and Jungle DMT at room temperate so Tek 1 doesn't need a heating step. Because of that it will yield full-spectrum product Jimjam DMT but since it is soluble, even when the solvent is cold, freezer precipitation doesn't work, so one of many different methods can be used to isolate the Jimjam DMT from the solvent.

Useful to know: If d-limonene is used, the tek will be

''<nowiki>*100% food-safe*</nowiki>'' 

Note:d-limonene still smells very strong and lingers in your house

'''For a first-timer [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Tek_2:_The_Fluffy_White_Funfest Tek 2] may be better advised than Tek 1 because it requires fewer steps and is well-suited for very small test batches like 30g-50g MHRB. I recommend Tek 1 for larger batches.

That being said, both teks are quite simple - comparable to baking a cake.'''

=== A little info on Lime ===
 [[Image:Lime.png]] 

'''The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is a replacement for lye which is very caustic and toxic.'''

lime is known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.

Until recently using caustic and toxic '''Sodium Hydroxide''' (lye, drain cleaner) was the only option as the base when extracting DMT. Lye is very potentially dangerous

These Teks instead use '''Lime'''. '''Lime''' is a powerful base that is actually food safe. It is powerfully alkaline so take care not to get it in your eyes or inhale it and wash your hands after touching it.

There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities. 

'''Here are some tips:'' Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums. So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores.

Local availability varies all the way from none to lots depending on country/location. If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.

If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally. Look on the internet for something and confirm that it is pure Ca(OH)2 before purchasing it from a reputable vendor.

If I haven't made this clear enough, let me end this section with a final clarification:
You MUST use proper lime for this tek to work! Make sure you do, good luck!

== Tek 1: The Jimjam party ==

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:''' 
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

Extraction Specific: 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH) 30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2) 125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark) Some Sealable and shakeable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel one Turkey baster or pipette(HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one Stove or Kettle one Pot or Pan

Useful tools one or more Funnels one Rice cooker one Baking pan/large surface area container one or more razor blades/scrapers one or two high quality mason jars 

Tincture tools one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml) one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses one spoon one lighter/candle/heat source

=== Preparation: ===
 [[Image:Materials.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I highly recommend not skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent: ===
 [[Image:Dlime.jpg]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear d-limonene solvent floating on top

Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted '''''

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g) 

'''Step 2:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:''' mix with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:''' you can just roll the container around in your hands to mix it.

Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

Mix it well several times over 40-60 minutes. (I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

'''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY.'''

'''Step 3:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Note:Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Alternative Next-Steps ===
'''Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method.
There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB (Step 4)] by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead.

'''↓My preferred method is below↓'''

=== Salting with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:IMG_20200528_061727.jpg]]

Cloudy d-limonene floating on top of yellowish vinegar

'''''This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.'''''

Note 1: Xylene and D-Limonene are very leaky, most containers will eventually start leaking during the salting process. I recommend high quality mason jars that you’ve tested the lids to make sure the solvent doesn’t react with.

'''Step 1:''' Pour some vinegar into the sealable container with the solvent. About 2 shot glasses full.

'''Step 2:''' Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefer to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. Emulsions in this step always resolve pretty easily. No need to be careful.

Agitate the container 3-4 times over 40-60 minutes. The solvent will quickly start to get cloudy and the vinegar will gradually get more yellow.

You don’t have to wait until the solvent gets clear, it doesn’t seem to relate to the process being finished.

'''Step 3:''' Use a turkey baster/pipette to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container. As with the other liquid separations, 90% is okay.

Note 2: Try to get as little of the solvent during the separation as possible. This solvent will leave plant oils and other junk in your end product. That being said, a 1mm layer of solvent atop your vinegar is common using this method.

'''Step 4:'''
Repeat steps 1-3 once in exactly the same way, combine the separated vinegar pulls in a sealable container. Keep it safe because any spill will be a loss of lots of DMT!

For those that want DMT as soon as possible, proceed immediately on to the condensing step after Step 4.

'''Step 5:''' For those more patient/lazy, plan for your next non-polar solvent use.

'''The most efficient/least effort extraction:'''

'''Non-polar pull #1''' - 6-8 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #2''' - 24 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #3''' - 48 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the above 3 pulls should contain 80-90% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all of the vinegar from pulls 1-3 and proceed to the condensing step.

'''Non-polar pull #4''' - 1 week after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #5''' - 2-3 weeks after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the 5 pulls together should contain at least 95% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all the vinegar from pulls 4-5 and do another condensing.

=== Condensing/Tincture Making: ===
 [[Image:Condensing.jpg]]

The process of condensing vinegar from light yellow liquid to a dense red tincture

'''This step is just to concentrate the vinegar containing the DMT down to a dense liquid "tincture" which can easily measure dosages by number of drops.'''

The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all of your DMT maintaining a consistent concentration. This tincture will keep indefinitely, I have used the same for 3+ years with no loss of potency.

Note 1: You could technically evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smokeable product. But that would result in a goo which is very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air. I honestly wouldn't recommend it that method though.

'''There are many steps to do in the condensing, so I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar saltings into one because it makes your house smell very vinegary and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times. Moreover, combining tinctures changes their concentrations, requiring re-measuring.'''

'''Step 1:''' Filter the vinegar through a cotton ball in a funnel, then add a bit of water to wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball and pour it all in a pot.

'''Step 2:''' Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 40-50ml

'''Step 3:''' Remove the pot from heat, then use a dropper to carefully filter the liquid through a cotton ball then wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball again with water

'''Step 4:''' Lower the heat to medium low and watch it carefully until it is around starts to become red in color.

Note 2: You can estimate the resulting liquid based on the amount of MHRB used. The combined vinegar from 3 solvent pulls will result in roughly 1tsp/5ml for every 100g MHRB used at 10mg/drop. Generally it's much less liquid than you expect, especially if you're used to dosing with crystals.

'''Step 5:''' As the liquid becomes redder and redder, '''before the liquid is all gone,''' remove the pot from heat, tip the pot to the side and use a dropper to transfer your tincture to a dropper bottle.

'''It is a delicate balance of not removing all liquid, but getting a good concentration. It is best to aim for a little less liquid than a little more for 2 reasons:

You’ll need to rinse the pot with a few mL of water to get all the DMT off, adding additional liquid to the tincture

Adding more liquid is extremely simple, while removing liquid means doing the condensing again.'''

'''A tincture can vary hugely based on a few factors. The color is a simple general indicator of the concentration. Here are pictures of 3 different concentration levels:'''

[[Image:Captude.PNG]]

5mg per drop

[[Image:Capturfde.PNG]]

10mg per drop

[[Image:Captufdare.PNG]]

15mg per drop

More concentration can be done, but tinctures will get thicker and thicker until they are a thick goo (at room temperature) of pure DMT at around 50mg per drop.

For those wanting a more formal measurement of the concentration, proceed on to next optional section.

=== Measuring the tincture: ===
 Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.

Quantitative Concentration (numerical):

- Drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster.

- Put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) '''NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!'''

- Once the liquid has dissolved and it smells strongly, but not of vinegar, turn off the element and let it sit until cool enough to handle.

During the cooling, measure the weight of a razor blade using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.

- Remove the coaster from the element then scrape up the goo with a razor and measured using the scale.

- Subtract the weight of the razor blade then divide the number by 10 and that is the concentration per drop.

- Label the tincture with the concentration.

Note: Don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change!

Qualitative Concentration (subjective): This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca - Use one of the methods from the next section to evaporate 1 drop of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. - If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 2 drops, then 3, 4, etc. until adequate effects are achieved. - Concentration will then be *number* drops = Mild *number* drops = Strong *number* drops = Breakthrough *number* drops = Too Strong!

- Label the tincture with the recommended drops for a dosage.

=== Evaporation and Smoking: ===
 [[Image:Evaporatinsssg.png]]

Preparing a dose using the slow method and smoking DMT off copper using a home-made glass pipe and home-made glass bong

'''''After evaporating all the liquid from some of the tincture you are left with nearly pure DMT acetate goo. DMT acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and decomposes into freebase DMT with heat, so it is readily smokable (and doesn't taste like vinegar)'''''

The Slow and Patient Method

Simply put a number of drops of tincture for a single dose of DMT on your smoking material and let it dry for a few hours before smoking.

'''Smoking materials:'''

Neutral Herb (Mullien, Peppermint)

Maoi Containing Herb (Caapi, Passionflower)

Pre-torched Ceramic Fiber Ball

Pre-Charred Copper Kitchen Scrubber Ball

Caution: Vinegar on copper may result in smoking small amounts of copper acetate which is not good for you. I cannot formally recommend this method for long term health without more information/research

The Hot and Quick Method

Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!

'''1: On Glass - Stove/Oven Method'''

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a flat glass coaster (I got my from the dollar store and then removed the rubber feet and glue from the bottom)

- Put the glass onto an electric stove element or into an oven at AS LOW AS POSSIBLE (do not use a gas stovetop)

- After the liquid evaporated and it doesn’t smell of vinegar it is ready. Usually about 1-2 minutes or 5 for fewer drops

- You can either:

a: Scrape up the liquid with a razor blade and transfer it to any smoking material

b: Let the glass cool to the touch then scrape it up with some herb/copper mesh

Note: hot DMT-acetate goo is very liquidy and hard to scrape up, the closer to room temperature it is, the thicker and easier it will be to scrape up.

'''2: With a Spoon - Lighter/Candle Method'''

Note:As much as this method might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a spoon then heat it from below with a lighter or candle flame. Be careful not to heat too quickly or it will spatter and DMT some will be lost.

- Continue to heat until the liquid has all gone and you’re left with a thin red liquidy goo that smells strongly but not of vinegar. A hot spoon will rapidly evaporate excess liquid without a flame below, so you can stop heating slightly before the process is finished.

- Carefully scrape up the goo with some herb/copper mesh. It’s usually best to let it cool for at least 30s before doing so to avoid burning yourself and allowing the goo to cool and thicken.

'''A quick warning about stability.'''

You could make lots of doses ahead of time with the slow or quick method, but DMT-acetate seems somewhat unstable outside the tincture. I have some ongoing tests to assess the stability of DMT in this method. The only 2 data points I have so far are:

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment, 1 week = no potency loss.

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment, 1 month = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 2 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 3 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 6 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 1 year = completely degraded and unsmokable

=== Smoking: ===

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

Whether DMT crystals are melted on it, or DMT-acetate goo is put on them doesn't matter, you create a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50), most of them should work relatively interchangeably with DMT-acetates because the crystals are usually melted into a goo before smoking anyway.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 1 ===
You'll need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)
 Dropper Bottle
 Hot Plate/Stovetop
 Copper Kitchen Scrubber
 Turkey baster/pipette (solvent-safe!)

First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick tomato soup.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Add 150ml or more xylene or d-Limonene for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent, this is normal.
Stir the solvent around all the bark-mush. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes.

Gently pour off the solvent (might need to filter it) into a separate solvent-safe container.

Add 2 shot-glasses of vinegar into the solvent and agitate it a few times over 40-50 minutes

Use a turkey baster/pipette to separate the vinegar at the bottom to a separate container then repeat one more time with fresh vinegar

Put the solvent back on the bark-mush. I recommend pouring it off and doing the vinegar step at 1 day and 2 days, early pulls will yield less.

Combine all the vinegar pulls you have and carefully evaporate them until they start turning red. (you can optionally filter it)

Look at the condensing step for a color reference for a good concentration. It is most likely going to be much less liquid than you expect as it is very potent.

Transfer the liquid to a dropper bottle. Now you have a liquid that can be measured by number of drops and when evaporated (with or without heat) leaves a red goo which is readily smokable DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Scrub up the DMT with the ball and it can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

----

== Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest ==

=== About Naphtha ===
 Naphtha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though its toxicity is quite benign. '''Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.''' The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naphtha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.

Plus 2 things: 1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple of hours. 2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.

Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.

If you are in the US then VM+P Naphtha is your choice. If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices. If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it: 1. Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs) 2. Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.

(What your product will could like if you follow the tek) [[Image:Spicee.jpg]]

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:'''
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the naphtha and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority of problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

 Two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naphtha won't dissolve/degrade) one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best) one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation one freezer 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH) Some Lime Ca(OH)2 100ml or more Naphtha one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)

Useful tools a few Playing cards one or more razor blades/scrapers Some coffee filters 

=== Preparation: ===
[[Image:Materials2.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I highly recommend not skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Naphtha'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Naphtha: ===
 [[Image:Napthaandgoo.JPG]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear naphtha solvent floating on top

'''Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naphtha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted.'''

Caution: Naphtha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do all of the following in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Get a large bowl that your bark-mush container/bowl can easily fit in. Place your container/bowl inside the bottom bowl then add boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the container/bowl or as close to that as possible. This will warm the bark mush indirectly and safely.

'''Step 2:''' Add 1ml naphtha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naphtha or more for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 3:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Stir the bark-mush around to contact the solvent with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Danger: Warm naphtha produces lots of expanding fumes, so you MUST vent it frequently whenever it is closed and if you are using something that may shatter, put on gloves and safety glasses.

When the bark-naphtha mush has been warmed, but is not too hot to handle, seal the container and roll the container around in your hands to mix it. Regularly open the container to vent the pressure from the warm naphtha. Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

For either the bowl or the container, mix well several times over 40-60 minutes,(I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

Place the container/bowl in the hot water when you’re not mixing. Feel the outside of the bowl/container with the bark-mush from time to time and if it is no longer warm then you can replace/add more boiling water in the bowl underneath.

'''Step 4:''' Clean and dry your precipitation container

I find it easiest to work with a small glass cake-baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals. You can use any naphtha-safe container though, the crystals sometimes float around in plastic containers, but not always.

'''Step 5:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container, DRY THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Once your solvent is in you precipication container, proceed to the next step. If you see some clear liquid (water) under your naphtha, this is not good for the next step. Add the solvent back to the bark and immediately do the seperation again more carefully.

Note: Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Precipitation/Crystallization: ===
 [[Image:Spices.JPG]]

The first pull of naphtha from 500g of MHRB after being in the freezer overnight

'''This step works on the principal that naphtha can dissolve DMT-freebase quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naphtha with DMT-freebase dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.'''

'''Step 1:''' Just pop your precipitation container straight into the freezer. If the naphtha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry this is normal. The naphtha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow, especially on the first pull.

Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but although naphtha smells pretty strong, it doesn't linger too long like d-limonene or xylene.

'''Step 3:''' Keep the naphtha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming. If the naphtha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT-freebase molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.

'''Step 4:''' Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take your precipitation container out of the freezer and very gently pour off the naphtha back into your bark-mush.
Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors) place to lean your precipitation container against, the few drops of excess naphtha will drip off and all of the naphtha surrounding the crystals will evaporate in a couple of hours. Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, however usually just SLOWLY pouring the naphtha off works fine. You may use a coffee filter to catch them if you prefer.

'''Once your container no longer smells like naphtha the DMT-freebase is ready! Scrape them up with a razor or a small spoon and put in a small sealable container or baggie for storage. Keep it in a COOL DRY PLACE because DMT crystals will simply melt on a hot day'''

'''Additional Naphtha Pulls:'''

As I mentioned before, there are recommended timings for pulling with naphtha, but they are planned so you don't need to use extra solvent.
My recommended proceedure is as follows:

Warm and Pull either immediately or at 6-8 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 24 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 48 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''The above 3 pulls should total 80-90% of the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Warm and Pull at 1 week after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 2-3 after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''All 5 pulls together should contain 95% or more than the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Final Notes on Extracting with Tek 2:

- The solvent and the crystals will usually be more yellow with each pull. You won't notice the difference when smoking yellow DMT vs white DMT though. Also, your DMT crystals will often turn more yellow over long periods of time.

- There may be a small film underneath the crystals. I am pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT which are both readily smokable and psychoactive like the white DMT crystals.

- You can do a re-crystallization for larger crystals (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Recrystallization)

- If the first 2 pulls don't cloud or precipitate crystals after 8-12 hours then check something in the extraction did not work correctly. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Common_issues.2FTroubleshooting Common issues/Troubleshooting] because that should not happen.

- Technically you can make a tincture from Tek 2 by salting the naphtha with vinegar or dissolving the crystals in vinegar. This will produce a beautiful amber-colored liquid that can be measured in 2-3 drops rather than with a scale. This is my prefered method, but I know everyone loves pretty crystals, so this might take some of the magic out of Tek 2 for many people.

=== Smoking: ===

[[Image:IMG 20200703 121449.jpg]]

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So I can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

You just gently put a single dose of your DMT crystals on the ball then warm it with a ligher until they have melted and coated the metal and you've created a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50)explore and find your favorite one.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 2 ===
You need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 Naphtha
 Freezer

In a bowl, mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of MHRB is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick porridge.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Use a bowl underneath containing hot water to warm your bark mush.
Add about 100ml naphtha for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush.
Stir the naphtha around all the bark. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes, making sure the bark mush is kept warm the whole time.

Wipe the bottom of your bowl dry, then gently pour off the naphtha into a container which will go in the freezer (optionally through a coffee filter to catch sediment). I use an 8 inch pyrex cake pan.
If the naphtha is at a low level in the container you may want to wrap it in saran wrap to prevent evaporation.

In a couple of hours the naphtha should get cloudy. Slowly over 8-12 hours the DMT will precipitate out of the naphtha and form crystals on the container.
When the naphtha is no longer cloudy then gently pour the naphtha off the crystals and back into your bark mush (you may use a coffee filter if you prefer).
Put the container on its side to allow the naphtha to evaporate. Keep it out of the sunlight because the crystals will melt into a goo at about 40C or so.

When the crystals no longer smell of naphtha they are ready to smoke or whatever. Keep in a dime bag or something. STORE IN A COOL DRY PLACE TO AVOID MELTING!

Your first pull will only contain a portion of the total DMT, I recommend warming the naphtha, seperating and crystallizing again at 1 day, 2 days, 1 week and 2-3 weeks. Each pull will yeild less DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Put a dose of DMT crystals gently on the ball, then slowly heat it until they have all melted into it. At that point the ball can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

== Common issues/Troubleshooting ==

The teks are pretty comprehensive, so as long as you follow the steps you can expect success.

There are 5 likely causes of no DMT or very small yields of DMT. Each of them has to do with the quality of your core extraction materials:

'''1. Your Lime is not Calcium Hydroxide'''

This will mean that the PH of your basified bark mush is not low enough to convert the DMT-acetate to DMT freebase. Adding lime and water to the mix may fix this, but it depends on what your previous "lime" was.

'''2. Your Solvent was not the D-limonene/Xylene/Naphtha that was mentioned in the Teks.'''

This will result in either no DMT being dissolved in the solvent, the solvent mixing with the bark, no precipitation of DMT, no salting of DMT or maybe something else. Most of these will result in unsalvageable Teks, so I hope you don't have this issue.

'''3. Your MHRB is not MHRB'''

This basically means you have no DMT to extract, so there is no solution to this issue other than getting yourself real MHRB

'''4: Your MHRB is not powdered'''

I have tried about 5x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and got a maximum of 5% the yield as powdered bark. If you have unused bark, you can try to powder it in a really strong blender, but most blenders can't powder MHRB. It might be better to just do a lye tek with your MHRB

'''5. Your vinegar is not 5% acetic acid'''

This will result in a successful, but 5x slower tek as it makes it a lime STB. You will have to wait much longer for the lime to work on the MHRB, but you just need patience and you'll get a full yield

 '''Good luck in all your life's endeavors! '''

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Limtek]]
[[Category:Acid/Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]

Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek

2020-07-06T03:16:43Z

Q21q21:

This tek is not Q21Q21's original idea but rather a culmination of many people's ideas. It is NOT perfect so if you can think of a better way to do ANY part of it then try it and PM me if it works! The tek is written in first person but they are Q21Q21's words.

(Q21Q21 being a fictional alien entity... with internet access)'''

 This tek was inspired by: '''Blueskine''' whose idea for freebasing acetates with heat changed my life! '''Noman''' whose tek on erowid inspired my first extraction '''69ron''' and his mescaline tek that taught me the power of lime '''amor_fati''' whose tek inspired me to try a vinegar step and made the tek over 10x faster '''SyZyGyPSy''' was the first person to report using limonene to extract spice '''Anyone whose post was read and forgot who posted it, you all helped.''' '''Lye''' which is so toxic and nasty.

_____________________
== Introduction ==

'''As a comprehensive guide there's lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.'''

'''If you would like to get right into the "What do I do?" then you can start by reading the Super-short Compressed Tek. (Then the full tek later)
'''
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_1 Tek 1 (Uses xylene/d-limonene)]
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_2 Tek 2 (Uses naphtha)]

== Background Information ==

=== The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark ===

While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis (abbreviated as MHRB)

[[image:MHRBthing.png]]

Mimosa Hostilis Plant, Whole Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark (MHRB), Shredded MHRB, Powdered MHRB

Mimosa Hostilis is a shrub that contains '''N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' and 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids (and some TINY amounts of NMT) in its root-bark . 

Discussions about suppliers of MHRB are no longer allowed on the DMT-Nexus, so it's best to do outside-Nexus searches for suppliers.

'''An extremely important note''' is that I have tried about 10x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and failed each time. Powdered MHRB is the only thing I'd recommend to buy as most blenders cannot powder MHRB properly.

=== Info about the 3 types of DMT contained in MHRB ===

Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information. '''Methods:''' [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Pharmahuasca Pharmahuasca], [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Guide_to_Mucosahuasca Mucosahuasca] or [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17873 Smoking]

''' White N-N-DMT'''
 
 [[Image:Crystals.JPG]] White DMT I extracted using Tek 2

'''White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' is pure DMT. MHRB usually contains about 1% of its weight in '''White DMT''', though yields from extractions of less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.

In the past the ultimate goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just '''White DMT''' in it. 

'''Red "Jungle" DMT'''

[[Image:SANY0069.JPG]] Thick dark red Jungle DMT extracted from by fully depleting the MHRB using naphtha, then pulling with xylene

"Jungle" DMT is also contained in the bark but cannot be extracted into crystals like '''White DMT'''

Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produces effects similar in duration and effects to '''White DMT'''. 
I strongly believe the yellow DMT which MANY people prefer to pure '''White DMT''' is in fact small amounts of Jungle DMT mixed with the '''White DMT.''' I think the cause of this is because Jungle DMT is ever so slightly soluble in naphtha.
An [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=156691 analysis] was done on this Jungle DMT and it is mostly (95%) DMT. Nonetheless I and many others still believe Jungle DMT produces noticeably different effects.

'''Yellow DMT-N-oxide'''

[[Image:SANY0050.JPG]] Crystallized DMT-N-oxide made with peroxide and white DMT

DMT-N-oxide was previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, but in fact Oxides seems unlikely to be present in the extracted DMT in significant amounts at all. (as I mentioned I believe that yellow is Jungle DMT)
 I and many others have smoked DMT which has been in ambient air for months/years without any significant loss of potency. 
Considering my tests (using the Oxides in the picture) suggest Oxides are about 1/3 or less potent than '''white DMT''' or jungle DMT when smoked (waiting on replication of this test to be positive though) then I conclude Oxides are insignificant and need not be worried about.

'''Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product'''

[[Image:Capture.PNG]]

Jimjam DMT I extracted using Tek 1 with d-limonene

If all the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum product called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during Tek 1.

Jimjam is considered by many to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though yields from extractions of more than 2% are not unheard of.

DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like Jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries - make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.

=== About the 2 teks ===
 [[Image:Suolvents.png]] 

Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naphtha they will be referred to as "the solvent"

In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used. '''Tek 2''' uses '''naphtha''' (lighter fluid) while
Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner but also used to dissolve HIPS 3D-printing supports)

(Vegetable oil can also apparently be used for Tek 1, you can search the Nexus for the many long threads talking about using it as a solvent)

'''Naphtha''' needs to be heated to dissolve or else it won't dissolve anything but its unique solubility properties allow for '''White DMT''' to be crystallized out when it is cooled in a freezer.
'''Tek 2''' thus involves a heating-step and a freezer-step that Tek 1 does not have. However, naphtha does not dissolve Jungle DMT very well so the extracted product will be almost entirely '''white DMT''' and leave the Jungle DMT in the MHRB.

d-limonene and xylene dissolve both '''white DMT''' and Jungle DMT at room temperate so Tek 1 doesn't need a heating step. Because of that it will yield full-spectrum product Jimjam DMT but since it is soluble, even when the solvent is cold, freezer precipitation doesn't work, so one of many different methods can be used to isolate the Jimjam DMT from the solvent.

Useful to know: If d-limonene is used, the tek will be

''<nowiki>*100% food-safe*</nowiki>'' 

Note:d-limonene still smells very strong and lingers in your house

'''For a first-timer [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Tek_2:_The_Fluffy_White_Funfest Tek 2] may be better advised than Tek 1 because it requires fewer steps and is well-suited for very small test batches like 30g-50g MHRB. I recommend Tek 1 for larger batches.

That being said, both teks are quite simple - comparable to baking a cake.'''

=== A little info on Lime ===
 [[Image:Lime.png]] 

'''The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is a replacement for lye which is very caustic and toxic.'''

lime is known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.

Until recently using caustic and toxic '''Sodium Hydroxide''' (lye, drain cleaner) was the only option as the base when extracting DMT. Lye is very potentially dangerous

These Teks instead use '''Lime'''. '''Lime''' is a powerful base that is actually food safe. It is powerfully alkaline so take care not to get it in your eyes or inhale it and wash your hands after touching it.

There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities. 

'''Here are some tips:'' Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums. So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores.

Local availability varies all the way from none to lots depending on country/location. If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.

If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally. Look on the internet for something and confirm that it is pure Ca(OH)2 before purchasing it from a reputable vendor.

If I haven't made this clear enough, let me end this section with a final clarification:
You MUST use proper lime for this tek to work! Make sure you do, good luck!

== Tek 1: The Jimjam party ==

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:''' 
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

Extraction Specific: 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH) 30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2) 125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark) Some Sealable and shakeable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel one Turkey baster or pipette(HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one Stove or Kettle one Pot or Pan

Useful tools one or more Funnels one Rice cooker one Baking pan/large surface area container one or more razor blades/scrapers one or two high quality mason jars 

Tincture tools one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml) one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses one spoon one lighter/candle/heat source

=== Preparation: ===
 [[Image:Materials.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I highly recommend not skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent: ===
 [[Image:Dlime.jpg]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear d-limonene solvent floating on top

Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted '''''

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g) 

'''Step 2:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:''' mix with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:''' you can just roll the container around in your hands to mix it.

Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

Mix it well several times over 40-60 minutes. (I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

'''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY.'''

'''Step 3:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Note:Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Alternative Next-Steps ===
'''Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method.
There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB (Step 4)] by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead.

'''↓My preferred method is below↓'''

=== Salting with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:IMG_20200528_061727.jpg]]

Cloudy d-limonene floating on top of yellowish vinegar

'''''This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.'''''

Note 1: Xylene and D-Limonene are very leaky, most containers will eventually start leaking during the salting process. I recommend high quality mason jars that you’ve tested the lids to make sure the solvent doesn’t react with.

'''Step 1:''' Pour some vinegar into the sealable container with the solvent. About 2 shot glasses full.

'''Step 2:''' Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefer to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. Emulsions in this step always resolve pretty easily. No need to be careful.

Agitate the container 3-4 times over 40-60 minutes. The solvent will quickly start to get cloudy and the vinegar will gradually get more yellow.

You don’t have to wait until the solvent gets clear, it doesn’t seem to relate to the process being finished.

'''Step 3:''' Use a turkey baster/pipette to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container. As with the other liquid separations, 90% is okay.

Note 2: Try to get as little of the solvent during the separation as possible. This solvent will leave plant oils and other junk in your end product. That being said, a 1mm layer of solvent atop your vinegar is common using this method.

'''Step 4:'''
Repeat steps 1-3 once in exactly the same way, combine the separated vinegar pulls in a sealable container. Keep it safe because any spill will be a loss of lots of DMT!

For those that want DMT as soon as possible, proceed immediately on to the condensing step after Step 4.

'''Step 5:''' For those more patient/lazy, plan for your next non-polar solvent use.

'''The most efficient/least effort extraction:'''

'''Non-polar pull #1''' - 6-8 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #2''' - 24 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #3''' - 48 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the above 3 pulls should contain 80-90% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all of the vinegar from pulls 1-3 and proceed to the condensing step.

'''Non-polar pull #4''' - 1 week after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #5''' - 2-3 weeks after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the 5 pulls together should contain at least 95% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all the vinegar from pulls 4-5 and do another condensing.

=== Condensing/Tincture Making: ===
 [[Image:Condensing.jpg]]

The process of condensing vinegar from light yellow liquid to a dense red tincture

'''This step is just to concentrate the vinegar containing the DMT down to a dense liquid "tincture" which can easily measure dosages by number of drops.'''

The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all of your DMT maintaining a consistent concentration. This tincture will keep indefinitely, I have used the same for 3+ years with no loss of potency.

Note 1: You could technically evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smokeable product. But that would result in a goo which is very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air. I honestly wouldn't recommend it that method though.

'''There are many steps to do in the condensing, so I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar saltings into one because it makes your house smell very vinegary and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times. Moreover, combining tinctures changes their concentrations, requiring re-measuring.'''

'''Step 1:''' Filter the vinegar through a cotton ball in a funnel, then add a bit of water to wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball and pour it all in a pot.

'''Step 2:''' Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 40-50ml

'''Step 3:''' Remove the pot from heat, then use a dropper to carefully filter the liquid through a cotton ball then wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball again with water

'''Step 4:''' Lower the heat to medium low and watch it carefully until it is around starts to become red in color.

Note 2: You can estimate the resulting liquid based on the amount of MHRB used. The combined vinegar from 3 solvent pulls will result in roughly 1tsp/5ml for every 100g MHRB used at 10mg/drop. Generally it's much less liquid than you expect, especially if you're used to dosing with crystals.

'''Step 5:''' As the liquid becomes redder and redder, '''before the liquid is all gone,''' remove the pot from heat, tip the pot to the side and use a dropper to transfer your tincture to a dropper bottle.

'''It is a delicate balance of not removing all liquid, but getting a good concentration. It is best to aim for a little less liquid than a little more for 2 reasons:

You’ll need to rinse the pot with a few mL of water to get all the DMT off, adding additional liquid to the tincture

Adding more liquid is extremely simple, while removing liquid means doing the condensing again.'''

'''A tincture can vary hugely based on a few factors. The color is a simple general indicator of the concentration. Here are pictures of 3 different concentration levels:'''

[[Image:Captude.PNG]]

5mg per drop

[[Image:Capturfde.PNG]]

10mg per drop

[[Image:Captufdare.PNG]]

15mg per drop

More concentration can be done, but tinctures will get thicker and thicker until they are a thick goo (at room temperature) of pure DMT at around 50mg per drop.

For those wanting a more formal measurement of the concentration, proceed on to next optional section.

=== Measuring the tincture: ===
 Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.

Quantitative Concentration (numerical):

- Drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster.

- Put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) '''NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!'''

- Once the liquid has dissolved and it smells strongly, but not of vinegar, turn off the element and let it sit until cool enough to handle.

During the cooling, measure the weight of a razor blade using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.

- Remove the coaster from the element then scrape up the goo with a razor and measured using the scale.

- Subtract the weight of the razor blade then divide the number by 10 and that is the concentration per drop.

- Label the tincture with the concentration.

Note: Don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change!

Qualitative Concentration (subjective): This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca - Use one of the methods from the next section to evaporate 1 drop of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. - If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 2 drops, then 3, 4, etc. until adequate effects are achieved. - Concentration will then be *number* drops = Mild *number* drops = Strong *number* drops = Breakthrough *number* drops = Too Strong!

- Label the tincture with the recommended drops for a dosage.

=== Evaporation and Smoking: ===
 [[Image:Evaporatinsssg.png]]

Preparing a dose using the slow method and smoking DMT off copper using a home-made glass pipe and home-made glass bong

'''''After evaporating all the liquid from some of the tincture you are left with nearly pure DMT acetate goo. DMT acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and decomposes into freebase DMT with heat, so it is readily smokable (and doesn't taste like vinegar)'''''

The Slow and Patient Method

Simply put a number of drops of tincture for a single dose of DMT on your smoking material and let it dry for a few hours before smoking.

'''Smoking materials:'''

Neutral Herb (Mullien, Peppermint)

Maoi Containing Herb (Caapi, Passionflower)

Ceramic Fiber Ball (to be tested)

Pre-Charred Copper Kitchen Scrubber Ball

Caution: Vinegar on copper may result in smoking small amounts of copper acetate which is not good for you. I cannot formally recommend this method for long term health without more information/research

The Hot and Quick Method

Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!

'''1: On Glass - Stove/Oven Method'''

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a flat glass coaster (I got my from the dollar store and then removed the rubber feet and glue from the bottom)

- Put the glass onto an electric stove element or into an oven at AS LOW AS POSSIBLE (do not use a gas stovetop)

- After the liquid evaporated and it doesn’t smell of vinegar it is ready. Usually about 1-2 minutes or 5 for fewer drops

- You can either:

a: Scrape up the liquid with a razor blade and transfer it to any smoking material

b: Let the glass cool to the touch then scrape it up with some herb/copper mesh

Note: hot DMT-acetate goo is very liquidy and hard to scrape up, the closer to room temperature it is, the thicker and easier it will be to scrape up.

'''2: With a Spoon - Lighter/Candle Method'''

Note:As much as this method might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a spoon then heat it from below with a lighter or candle flame. Be careful not to heat too quickly or it will spatter and DMT some will be lost.

- Continue to heat until the liquid has all gone and you’re left with a thin red liquidy goo that smells strongly but not of vinegar. A hot spoon will rapidly evaporate excess liquid without a flame below, so you can stop heating slightly before the process is finished.

- Carefully scrape up the goo with some herb/copper mesh. It’s usually best to let it cool for at least 30s before doing so to avoid burning yourself and allowing the goo to cool and thicken.

'''A quick warning about stability.'''

You could make lots of doses ahead of time with the slow or quick method, but DMT-acetate seems somewhat unstable outside the tincture. I have some ongoing tests to assess the stability of DMT in this method. The only 2 data points I have so far are:

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment, 1 week = no potency loss.

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment, 1 month = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 2 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 3 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 6 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 1 year = completely degraded and unsmokable

=== Smoking: ===

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

Whether DMT crystals are melted on it, or DMT-acetate goo is put on them doesn't matter, you create a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50), most of them should work relatively interchangeably with DMT-acetates because the crystals are usually melted into a goo before smoking anyway.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 1 ===
You'll need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)
 Dropper Bottle
 Hot Plate/Stovetop
 Copper Kitchen Scrubber
 Turkey baster/pipette (solvent-safe!)

First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick tomato soup.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Add 150ml or more xylene or d-Limonene for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent, this is normal.
Stir the solvent around all the bark-mush. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes.

Gently pour off the solvent (might need to filter it) into a separate solvent-safe container.

Add 2 shot-glasses of vinegar into the solvent and agitate it a few times over 40-50 minutes

Use a turkey baster/pipette to separate the vinegar at the bottom to a separate container then repeat one more time with fresh vinegar

Put the solvent back on the bark-mush. I recommend pouring it off and doing the vinegar step at 1 day and 2 days, early pulls will yield less.

Combine all the vinegar pulls you have and carefully evaporate them until they start turning red. (you can optionally filter it)

Look at the condensing step for a color reference for a good concentration. It is most likely going to be much less liquid than you expect as it is very potent.

Transfer the liquid to a dropper bottle. Now you have a liquid that can be measured by number of drops and when evaporated (with or without heat) leaves a red goo which is readily smokable DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Scrub up the DMT with the ball and it can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

----

== Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest ==

=== About Naphtha ===
 Naphtha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though its toxicity is quite benign. '''Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.''' The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naphtha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.

Plus 2 things: 1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple of hours. 2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.

Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.

If you are in the US then VM+P Naphtha is your choice. If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices. If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it: 1. Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs) 2. Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.

(What your product will could like if you follow the tek) [[Image:Spicee.jpg]]

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:'''
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the naphtha and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority of problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

 Two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naphtha won't dissolve/degrade) one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best) one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation one freezer 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH) Some Lime Ca(OH)2 100ml or more Naphtha one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)

Useful tools a few Playing cards one or more razor blades/scrapers Some coffee filters 

=== Preparation: ===
[[Image:Materials2.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I highly recommend not skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Naphtha'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Naphtha: ===
 [[Image:Napthaandgoo.JPG]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear naphtha solvent floating on top

'''Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naphtha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted.'''

Caution: Naphtha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do all of the following in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Get a large bowl that your bark-mush container/bowl can easily fit in. Place your container/bowl inside the bottom bowl then add boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the container/bowl or as close to that as possible. This will warm the bark mush indirectly and safely.

'''Step 2:''' Add 1ml naphtha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naphtha or more for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 3:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Stir the bark-mush around to contact the solvent with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Danger: Warm naphtha produces lots of expanding fumes, so you MUST vent it frequently whenever it is closed and if you are using something that may shatter, put on gloves and safety glasses.

When the bark-naphtha mush has been warmed, but is not too hot to handle, seal the container and roll the container around in your hands to mix it. Regularly open the container to vent the pressure from the warm naphtha. Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

For either the bowl or the container, mix well several times over 40-60 minutes,(I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

Place the container/bowl in the hot water when you’re not mixing. Feel the outside of the bowl/container with the bark-mush from time to time and if it is no longer warm then you can replace/add more boiling water in the bowl underneath.

'''Step 4:''' Clean and dry your precipitation container

I find it easiest to work with a small glass cake-baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals. You can use any naphtha-safe container though, the crystals sometimes float around in plastic containers, but not always.

'''Step 5:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container, DRY THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Once your solvent is in you precipication container, proceed to the next step. If you see some clear liquid (water) under your naphtha, this is not good for the next step. Add the solvent back to the bark and immediately do the seperation again more carefully.

Note: Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Precipitation/Crystallization: ===
 [[Image:Spices.JPG]]

The first pull of naphtha from 500g of MHRB after being in the freezer overnight

'''This step works on the principal that naphtha can dissolve DMT-freebase quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naphtha with DMT-freebase dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.'''

'''Step 1:''' Just pop your precipitation container straight into the freezer. If the naphtha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry this is normal. The naphtha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow, especially on the first pull.

Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but although naphtha smells pretty strong, it doesn't linger too long like d-limonene or xylene.

'''Step 3:''' Keep the naphtha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming. If the naphtha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT-freebase molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.

'''Step 4:''' Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take your precipitation container out of the freezer and very gently pour off the naphtha back into your bark-mush.
Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors) place to lean your precipitation container against, the few drops of excess naphtha will drip off and all of the naphtha surrounding the crystals will evaporate in a couple of hours. Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, however usually just SLOWLY pouring the naphtha off works fine. You may use a coffee filter to catch them if you prefer.

'''Once your container no longer smells like naphtha the DMT-freebase is ready! Scrape them up with a razor or a small spoon and put in a small sealable container or baggie for storage. Keep it in a COOL DRY PLACE because DMT crystals will simply melt on a hot day'''

'''Additional Naphtha Pulls:'''

As I mentioned before, there are recommended timings for pulling with naphtha, but they are planned so you don't need to use extra solvent.
My recommended proceedure is as follows:

Warm and Pull either immediately or at 6-8 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 24 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 48 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''The above 3 pulls should total 80-90% of the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Warm and Pull at 1 week after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 2-3 after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''All 5 pulls together should contain 95% or more than the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Final Notes on Extracting with Tek 2:

- The solvent and the crystals will usually be more yellow with each pull. You won't notice the difference when smoking yellow DMT vs white DMT though. Also, your DMT crystals will often turn more yellow over long periods of time.

- There may be a small film underneath the crystals. I am pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT which are both readily smokable and psychoactive like the white DMT crystals.

- You can do a re-crystallization for larger crystals (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Recrystallization)

- If the first 2 pulls don't cloud or precipitate crystals after 8-12 hours then check something in the extraction did not work correctly. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Common_issues.2FTroubleshooting Common issues/Troubleshooting] because that should not happen.

- Technically you can make a tincture from Tek 2 by salting the naphtha with vinegar or dissolving the crystals in vinegar. This will produce a beautiful amber-colored liquid that can be measured in 2-3 drops rather than with a scale. This is my prefered method, but I know everyone loves pretty crystals, so this might take some of the magic out of Tek 2 for many people.

=== Smoking: ===

[[Image:IMG 20200703 121449.jpg]]

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So I can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

You just gently put a single dose of your DMT crystals on the ball then warm it with a ligher until they have melted and coated the metal and you've created a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50)explore and find your favorite one.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 2 ===
You need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 Naphtha
 Freezer

In a bowl, mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of MHRB is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick porridge.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Use a bowl underneath containing hot water to warm your bark mush.
Add about 100ml naphtha for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush.
Stir the naphtha around all the bark. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes, making sure the bark mush is kept warm the whole time.

Wipe the bottom of your bowl dry, then gently pour off the naphtha into a container which will go in the freezer (optionally through a coffee filter to catch sediment). I use an 8 inch pyrex cake pan.
If the naphtha is at a low level in the container you may want to wrap it in saran wrap to prevent evaporation.

In a couple of hours the naphtha should get cloudy. Slowly over 8-12 hours the DMT will precipitate out of the naphtha and form crystals on the container.
When the naphtha is no longer cloudy then gently pour the naphtha off the crystals and back into your bark mush (you may use a coffee filter if you prefer).
Put the container on its side to allow the naphtha to evaporate. Keep it out of the sunlight because the crystals will melt into a goo at about 40C or so.

When the crystals no longer smell of naphtha they are ready to smoke or whatever. Keep in a dime bag or something. STORE IN A COOL DRY PLACE TO AVOID MELTING!

Your first pull will only contain a portion of the total DMT, I recommend warming the naphtha, seperating and crystallizing again at 1 day, 2 days, 1 week and 2-3 weeks. Each pull will yeild less DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Put a dose of DMT crystals gently on the ball, then slowly heat it until they have all melted into it. At that point the ball can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

== Common issues/Troubleshooting ==

The teks are pretty comprehensive, so as long as you follow the steps you can expect success.

There are 5 likely causes of no DMT or very small yields of DMT. Each of them has to do with the quality of your core extraction materials:

'''1. Your Lime is not Calcium Hydroxide'''

This will mean that the PH of your basified bark mush is not low enough to convert the DMT-acetate to DMT freebase. Adding lime and water to the mix may fix this, but it depends on what your previous "lime" was.

'''2. Your Solvent was not the D-limonene/Xylene/Naphtha that was mentioned in the Teks.'''

This will result in either no DMT being dissolved in the solvent, the solvent mixing with the bark, no precipitation of DMT, no salting of DMT or maybe something else. Most of these will result in unsalvageable Teks, so I hope you don't have this issue.

'''3. Your MHRB is not MHRB'''

This basically means you have no DMT to extract, so there is no solution to this issue other than getting yourself real MHRB

'''4: Your MHRB is not powdered'''

I have tried about 5x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and got a maximum of 5% the yield as powdered bark. If you have unused bark, you can try to powder it in a really strong blender, but most blenders can't powder MHRB. It might be better to just do a lye tek with your MHRB

'''5. Your vinegar is not 5% acetic acid'''

This will result in a successful, but 5x slower tek as it makes it a lime STB. You will have to wait much longer for the lime to work on the MHRB, but you just need patience and you'll get a full yield

 '''Good luck in all your life's endeavors! '''

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Limtek]]
[[Category:Acid/Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]

Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek

2020-07-05T04:26:28Z

Q21q21:

This tek is not Q21Q21's original idea but rather a culmination of many people's ideas. It is NOT perfect so if you can think of a better way to do ANY part of it then try it and PM me if it works! The tek is written in first person but they are Q21Q21's words.

(Q21Q21 being a fictional alien entity... with internet access)'''

 This tek was inspired by: '''Blueskine''' whose idea for freebasing acetates with heat changed my life! '''Noman''' whose tek on erowid inspired my first extraction '''69ron''' and his mescaline tek that taught me the power of lime '''amor_fati''' whose tek inspired me to try a vinegar step and made the tek over 10x faster '''SyZyGyPSy''' was the first person to report using limonene to extract spice '''Anyone whose post was read and forgot who posted it, you all helped.''' '''Lye''' which is so toxic and nasty.

_____________________
== Introduction ==

'''As a comprehensive guide there's lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.'''

'''If you would like to get right into the "What do I do?" then you can start by reading the Super-short Compressed Tek. (Then the full tek later)
'''
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_1 Tek 1 (Uses xylene/d-limonene)]
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_2 Tek 2 (Uses naphtha)]

== Background Information ==

=== The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark ===

While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis (abbreviated as MHRB)

[[image:MHRBthing.png]]

Mimosa Hostilis Plant, Whole Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark (MHRB), Shredded MHRB, Powdered MHRB

Mimosa Hostilis is a shrub that contains '''N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' and 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids (and some TINY amounts of NMT) in its root-bark . 

Discussions about suppliers of MHRB are no longer allowed on the DMT-Nexus, so it's best to do outside-Nexus searches for suppliers.

'''An extremely important note''' is that I have tried about 10x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and failed each time. Powdered MHRB is the only thing I'd recommend to buy as most blenders cannot powder MHRB properly.

=== Info about the 3 types of DMT contained in MHRB ===

Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information. '''Methods:''' [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Pharmahuasca Pharmahuasca], [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Guide_to_Mucosahuasca Mucosahuasca] or [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17873 Smoking]

''' White N-N-DMT'''
 
 [[Image:Crystals.JPG]] White DMT I extracted using Tek 2

'''White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' is pure DMT. MHRB usually contains about 1% of its weight in '''White DMT''', though yields from extractions of less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.

In the past the ultimate goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just '''White DMT''' in it. 

'''Red "Jungle" DMT'''

[[Image:SANY0069.JPG]] Thick dark red Jungle DMT extracted from by fully depleting the MHRB using naptha, then pulling with xylene

"Jungle" DMT is also contained in the bark but cannot be extracted into crystals like '''White DMT'''

Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produces effects similar in duration and effects to '''White DMT'''. 
I strongly believe the yellow DMT which MANY people prefer to pure '''White DMT''' is in fact small amounts of Jungle DMT mixed with the '''White DMT.''' I think the cause of this is because Jungle DMT is ever so slightly soluble in naptha.
An [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=156691 analysis] was done on this Jungle DMT and it is mostly (95%) DMT. Nonetheless I and many others still believe Jungle DMT produces noticeably different effects.

'''Yellow DMT-N-oxide'''

[[Image:SANY0050.JPG]] Crystallized DMT-N-oxide made with peroxide and white DMT

DMT-N-oxide was previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, but in fact Oxides seems unlikely to be present in the extracted DMT in significant amounts at all. (as I mentioned I believe that yellow is Jungle DMT)
 I and many others have smoked DMT which has been in ambient air for months/years without any significant loss of potency. 
Considering my tests (using the Oxides in the picture) suggest Oxides are about 1/3 or less potent than '''white DMT''' or jungle DMT when smoked (waiting on replication of this test to be positive though) then I conclude Oxides are insignificant and need not be worried about.

'''Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product'''

[[Image:Capture.PNG]]

Jimjam DMT I extracted using Tek 1 with d-limonene

If all the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum product called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during Tek 1.

Jimjam is considered by many to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though yields from extractions of more than 2% are not unheard of.

DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like Jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries - make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.

=== About the 2 teks ===
 [[Image:Suolvents.png]] 

Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naphtha they will be referred to as "the solvent"

In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used. '''Tek 2''' uses '''naphtha''' (lighter fluid) while
Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner but also used to dissolve HIPS 3D-printing supports)

(Vegetable oil can also apparently be used for Tek 1, you can search the Nexus for the many long threads talking about using it as a solvent)

'''Naphtha''' needs to be heated to dissolve or else it won't dissolve anything but its unique solubility properties allow for '''White DMT''' to be crystallized out when it is cooled in a freezer.
'''Tek 2''' thus involves a heating-step and a freezer-step that Tek 1 does not have. However, naphtha does not dissolve Jungle DMT very well so the extracted product will be almost entirely '''white DMT''' and leave the Jungle DMT in the MHRB.

d-limonene and xylene dissolve both '''white DMT''' and Jungle DMT at room temperate so Tek 1 doesn't need a heating step. Because of that it will yield full-spectrum product Jimjam DMT but since it is soluble, even when the solvent is cold, freezer precipitation doesn't work, so one of many different methods can be used to isolate the Jimjam DMT from the solvent.

Useful to know: If d-limonene is used, the tek will be

''<nowiki>*100% food-safe*</nowiki>'' 

Note:d-limonene still smells very strong and lingers in your house

'''For a first-timer [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Tek_2:_The_Fluffy_White_Funfest Tek 2] may be better advised than Tek 1 because it requires fewer steps and is well-suited for very small test batches like 30g-50g MHRB. I recommend Tek 1 for larger batches.

That being said, both teks are quite simple - comparable to baking a cake.'''

=== A little info on Lime ===
 [[Image:Lime.png]] 

'''The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is a replacement for lye which is very caustic and toxic.'''

lime is known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.

Until recently using caustic and toxic '''Sodium Hydroxide''' (lye, drain cleaner) was the only option as the base when extracting DMT. Lye is very potentially dangerous

These Teks instead use '''Lime'''. '''Lime''' is a powerful base that is actually food safe. It is powerfully alkaline so take care not to get it in your eyes or inhale it and wash your hands after touching it.

There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities. 

'''Here are some tips:'' Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums. So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores.

Local availability varies all the way from none to lots depending on country/location. If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.

If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally. Look on the internet for something and confirm that it is pure Ca(OH)2 before purchasing it from a reputable vendor.

If I haven't made this clear enough, let me end this section with a final clarification:
You MUST use proper lime for this tek to work! Make sure you do, good luck!

== Tek 1: The Jimjam party ==

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:''' 
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

Extraction Specific: 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH) 30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2) 125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark) Some Sealable and shakeable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel one Turkey baster or pipette(HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one Stove or Kettle one Pot or Pan

Useful tools one or more Funnels one Rice cooker one Baking pan/large surface area container one or more razor blades/scrapers one or two high quality mason jars 

Tincture tools one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml) one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses one spoon one lighter/candle/heat source

=== Preparation: ===
 [[Image:Materials.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I highly recommend not skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Non-Polar Solvent: ===
 [[Image:Dlime.jpg]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear d-limonene solvent floating on top

Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted '''''

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g) 

'''Step 2:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:''' mix with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:''' you can just roll the container around in your hands to mix it.

Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

Mix it well several times over 40-60 minutes. (I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

'''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY.'''

'''Step 3:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Note:Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Alternative Next-Steps ===
'''Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method.
There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB (Step 4)] by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead.

'''↓My preferred method is below↓'''

=== Salting with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:IMG_20200528_061727.jpg]]

Cloudy d-limonene floating on top of yellowish vinegar

'''''This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.'''''

Note 1: Xylene and D-Limonene are very leaky, most containers will eventually start leaking during the salting process. I recommend high quality mason jars that you’ve tested the lids to make sure the solvent doesn’t react with.

'''Step 1:''' Pour some vinegar into the sealable container with the solvent. About 2 shot glasses full.

'''Step 2:''' Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefer to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. Emulsions in this step always resolve pretty easily. No need to be careful.

Agitate the container 3-4 times over 40-60 minutes. The solvent will quickly start to get cloudy and the vinegar will gradually get more yellow.

You don’t have to wait until the solvent gets clear, it doesn’t seem to relate to the process being finished.

'''Step 3:''' Use a turkey baster/pipette to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container. As with the other liquid separations, 90% is okay.

Note 2: Try to get as little of the solvent during the separation as possible. This solvent will leave plant oils and other junk in your end product. That being said, a 1mm layer of solvent atop your vinegar is common using this method.

'''Step 4:'''
Repeat steps 1-3 once in exactly the same way, combine the separated vinegar pulls in a sealable container. Keep it safe because any spill will be a loss of lots of DMT!

For those that want DMT as soon as possible, proceed immediately on to the condensing step after Step 4.

'''Step 5:''' For those more patient/lazy, plan for your next non-polar solvent use.

'''The most efficient/least effort extraction:'''

'''Non-polar pull #1''' - 6-8 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #2''' - 24 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #3''' - 48 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the above 3 pulls should contain 80-90% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all of the vinegar from pulls 1-3 and proceed to the condensing step.

'''Non-polar pull #4''' - 1 week after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #5''' - 2-3 weeks after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the 5 pulls together should contain at least 95% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all the vinegar from pulls 4-5 and do another condensing.

=== Condensing/Tincture Making: ===
 [[Image:Condensing.jpg]]

The process of condensing vinegar from light yellow liquid to a dense red tincture

'''This step is just to concentrate the vinegar containing the DMT down to a dense liquid "tincture" which can easily measure dosages by number of drops.'''

The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all of your DMT maintaining a consistent concentration. This tincture will keep indefinitely, I have used the same for 3+ years with no loss of potency.

Note 1: You could technically evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smokeable product. But that would result in a goo which is very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air. I honestly wouldn't recommend it that method though.

'''There are many steps to do in the condensing, so I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar saltings into one because it makes your house smell very vinegary and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times. Moreover, combining tinctures changes their concentrations, requiring re-measuring.'''

'''Step 1:''' Filter the vinegar through a cotton ball in a funnel, then add a bit of water to wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball and pour it all in a pot.

'''Step 2:''' Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 40-50ml

'''Step 3:''' Remove the pot from heat, then use a dropper to carefully filter the liquid through a cotton ball then wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball again with water

'''Step 4:''' Lower the heat to medium low and watch it carefully until it is around starts to become red in color.

Note 2: You can estimate the resulting liquid based on the amount of MHRB used. The combined vinegar from 3 solvent pulls will result in roughly 1tsp/5ml for every 100g MHRB used at 10mg/drop. Generally it's much less liquid than you expect, especially if you're used to dosing with crystals.

'''Step 5:''' As the liquid becomes redder and redder, '''before the liquid is all gone,''' remove the pot from heat, tip the pot to the side and use a dropper to transfer your tincture to a dropper bottle.

'''It is a delicate balance of not removing all liquid, but getting a good concentration. It is best to aim for a little less liquid than a little more for 2 reasons:

You’ll need to rinse the pot with a few mL of water to get all the DMT off, adding additional liquid to the tincture

Adding more liquid is extremely simple, while removing liquid means doing the condensing again.'''

'''A tincture can vary hugely based on a few factors. The color is a simple general indicator of the concentration. Here are pictures of 3 different concentration levels:'''

[[Image:Captude.PNG]]

5mg per drop

[[Image:Capturfde.PNG]]

10mg per drop

[[Image:Captufdare.PNG]]

15mg per drop

More concentration can be done, but tinctures will get thicker and thicker until they are a thick goo (at room temperature) of pure DMT at around 50mg per drop.

For those wanting a more formal measurement of the concentration, proceed on to next optional section.

=== Measuring the tincture: ===
 Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.

Quantitative Concentration (numerical):

- Drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster.

- Put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) '''NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!'''

- Once the liquid has dissolved and it smells strongly, but not of vinegar, turn off the element and let it sit until cool enough to handle.

During the cooling, measure the weight of a razor blade using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.

- Remove the coaster from the element then scrape up the goo with a razor and measured using the scale.

- Subtract the weight of the razor blade then divide the number by 10 and that is the concentration per drop.

- Label the tincture with the concentration.

Note: Don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change!

Qualitative Concentration (subjective): This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca - Use one of the methods from the next section to evaporate 1 drop of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. - If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 2 drops, then 3, 4, etc. until adequate effects are achieved. - Concentration will then be *number* drops = Mild *number* drops = Strong *number* drops = Breakthrough *number* drops = Too Strong!

- Label the tincture with the recommended drops for a dosage.

=== Evaporation and Smoking: ===
 [[Image:Evaporatinsssg.png]]

Preparing a dose using the slow method and smoking DMT off copper using a home-made glass pipe and home-made glass bong

'''''After evaporating all the liquid from some of the tincture you are left with nearly pure DMT acetate goo. DMT acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and decomposes into freebase DMT with heat, so it is readily smokable (and doesn't taste like vinegar)'''''

The Slow and Patient Method

Simply put a number of drops of tincture for a single dose of DMT on your smoking material and let it dry for a few hours before smoking.

'''Smoking materials:'''

Neutral Herb (Mullien, Peppermint)

Maoi Containing Herb (Caapi, Passionflower)

Ceramic Fiber Ball (to be tested)

Pre-Charred Copper Kitchen Scrubber Ball

Caution: Vinegar on copper may result in smoking small amounts of copper acetate which is not good for you. I cannot formally recommend this method for long term health without more information/research

The Hot and Quick Method

Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!

'''1: On Glass - Stove/Oven Method'''

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a flat glass coaster (I got my from the dollar store and then removed the rubber feet and glue from the bottom)

- Put the glass onto an electric stove element or into an oven at AS LOW AS POSSIBLE (do not use a gas stovetop)

- After the liquid evaporated and it doesn’t smell of vinegar it is ready. Usually about 1-2 minutes or 5 for fewer drops

- You can either:

a: Scrape up the liquid with a razor blade and transfer it to any smoking material

b: Let the glass cool to the touch then scrape it up with some herb/copper mesh

Note: hot DMT-acetate goo is very liquidy and hard to scrape up, the closer to room temperature it is, the thicker and easier it will be to scrape up.

'''2: With a Spoon - Lighter/Candle Method'''

Note:As much as this method might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a spoon then heat it from below with a lighter or candle flame. Be careful not to heat too quickly or it will spatter and DMT some will be lost.

- Continue to heat until the liquid has all gone and you’re left with a thin red liquidy goo that smells strongly but not of vinegar. A hot spoon will rapidly evaporate excess liquid without a flame below, so you can stop heating slightly before the process is finished.

- Carefully scrape up the goo with some herb/copper mesh. It’s usually best to let it cool for at least 30s before doing so to avoid burning yourself and allowing the goo to cool and thicken.

'''A quick warning about stability.'''

You could make lots of doses ahead of time with the slow or quick method, but DMT-acetate seems somewhat unstable outside the tincture. I have some ongoing tests to assess the stability of DMT in this method. The only 2 data points I have so far are:

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment, 1 week = no potency loss.

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment, 1 month = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 2 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 3 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 6 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 1 year = completely degraded and unsmokable

=== Smoking: ===

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

Whether DMT crystals are melted on it, or DMT-acetate goo is put on them doesn't matter, you create a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50), most of them should work relatively interchangeably with DMT-acetates because the crystals are usually melted into a goo before smoking anyway.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 1 ===
You'll need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)
 Dropper Bottle
 Hot Plate/Stovetop
 Copper Kitchen Scrubber
 Turkey baster/pipette (solvent-safe!)

First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick tomato soup.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Add 150ml or more xylene or d-Limonene for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent, this is normal.
Stir the solvent around all the bark-mush. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes.

Gently pour off the solvent (might need to filter it) into a separate solvent-safe container.

Add 2 shot-glasses of vinegar into the solvent and agitate it a few times over 40-50 minutes

Use a turkey baster/pipette to separate the vinegar at the bottom to a separate container then repeat one more time with fresh vinegar

Put the solvent back on the bark-mush. I recommend pouring it off and doing the vinegar step at 1 day and 2 days, early pulls will yield less.

Combine all the vinegar pulls you have and carefully evaporate them until they start turning red. (you can optionally filter it)

Look at the condensing step for a color reference for a good concentration. It is most likely going to be much less liquid than you expect as it is very potent.

Transfer the liquid to a dropper bottle. Now you have a liquid that can be measured by number of drops and when evaporated (with or without heat) leaves a red goo which is readily smokable DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Scrub up the DMT with the ball and it can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

----

== Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest ==

=== About Naphtha ===
 Naphtha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though its toxicity is quite benign. '''Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.''' The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naphtha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.

Plus 2 things: 1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple of hours. 2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.

Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.

If you are in the US then VM+P Naphtha is your choice. If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices. If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it: 1. Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs) 2. Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.

(What your product will could like if you follow the tek) [[Image:Spicee.jpg]]

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:'''
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the naphtha and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority of problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

 Two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naphtha won't dissolve/degrade) one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best) one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation one freezer 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH) Some Lime Ca(OH)2 100ml or more Naphtha one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)

Useful tools a few Playing cards one or more razor blades/scrapers Some coffee filters 

=== Preparation: ===
[[Image:Materials2.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification with Vinegar: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I highly recommend not skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification with Lime: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the Pulling with Naptha'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Pulling with Naptha: ===
 [[Image:Napthaandgoo.JPG]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear naptha solvent floating on top

'''Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naphtha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted.'''

Caution: Naphtha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do all of the following in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Get a large bowl that your bark-mush container/bowl can easily fit in. Place your container/bowl inside the bottom bowl then add boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the container/bowl or as close to that as possible. This will warm the bark mush indirectly and safely.

'''Step 2:''' Add 1ml naphtha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naphtha or more for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 3:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Stir the bark-mush around to contact the solvent with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Danger: Warm naphtha produces lots of expanding fumes, so you MUST vent it frequently whenever it is closed and if you are using something that may shatter, put on gloves and safety glasses.

When the bark-naptha mush has been warmed, but is not too hot to handle, seal the container and roll the container around in your hands to mix it. Regularly open the container to vent the pressure from the warm naptha. Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

For either the bowl or the container, mix well several times over 40-60 minutes,(I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

Place the container/bowl in the hot water when you’re not mixing. Feel the outside of the bowl/container with the bark-mush from time to time and if it is no longer warm then you can replace/add more boiling water in the bowl underneath.

'''Step 4:''' Clean and dry your precipitation container

I find it easiest to work with a small glass cake-baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals. You can use any naphtha-safe container though, the crystals sometimes float around in plastic containers, but not always.

'''Step 5:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container, DRY THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Once your solvent is in you precipication container, proceed to the next step. If you see some clear liquid (water) under your naptha, this is not good for the next step. Add the solvent back to the bark and immediately do the seperation again more carefully.

Note: Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Precipitation/Crystallization: ===
 [[Image:Spices.JPG]]

The first pull of naptha from 500g of MHRB after being in the freezer overnight

'''This step works on the principal that naphtha can dissolve DMT-freebase quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naphtha with DMT-freebase dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.'''

'''Step 1:''' Just pop your precipitation container straight into the freezer. If the naphtha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry this is normal. The naphtha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow, especially on the first pull.

Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but although naptha smells pretty strong, it doesn't linger too long like d-limonene or xylene.

'''Step 3:''' Keep the naphtha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming. If the naphtha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT-freebase molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.

'''Step 4:''' Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take your precipitation container out of the freezer and very gently pour off the naphtha back into your bark-mush.
Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors) place to lean your precipitation container against, the few drops of excess naphtha will drip off and all of the naptha surrounding the crystals will evaporate in a couple of hours. Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, however usually just SLOWLY pouring the naphtha off works fine. You may use a coffee filter to catch them if you prefer.

'''Once your container no longer smells like naphtha the DMT-freebase is ready! Scrape them up with a razor or a small spoon and put in a small sealable container or baggie for storage. Keep it in a COOL DRY PLACE because DMT crystals will simply melt on a hot day'''

'''Additional Naptha Pulls:'''

As I mentioned before, there are recommended timings for pulling with naptha, but they are planned so you don't need to use extra solvent.
My recommended proceedure is as follows:

Warm and Pull either immediately or at 6-8 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 24 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 48 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''The above 3 pulls should total 80-90% of the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Warm and Pull at 1 week after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 2-3 after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''All 5 pulls together should contain 95% or more than the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Final Notes on Extracting with Tek 2:

- The solvent and the crystals will usually be more yellow with each pull. You won't notice the difference when smoking yellow DMT vs white DMT though. Also, your DMT crystals will often turn more yellow over long periods of time.

- There may be a small film underneath the crystals. I am pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT which are both readily smokable and psychoactive like the white DMT crystals.

- You can do a re-crystallization for larger crystals (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Recrystallization)

- If the first 2 pulls don't cloud or precipitate crystals after 8-12 hours then check something in the extraction did not work correctly. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Common_issues.2FTroubleshooting Common issues/Troubleshooting] because that should not happen.

- Technically you can make a tincture from Tek 2 by salting the naptha with vinegar or dissolving the crystals in vinegar. This will produce a beautiful amber-colored liquid that can be measured in 2-3 drops rather than with a scale. This is my prefered method, but I know everyone loves pretty crystals, so this might take some of the magic out of Tek 2 for many people.

=== Smoking: ===

[[Image:IMG 20200703 121449.jpg]]

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So I can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

You just gently put a single dose of your DMT crystals on the ball then warm it with a ligher until they have melted and coated the metal and you've created a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50)explore and find your favorite one.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 2 ===
You need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 Naphtha
 Freezer

In a bowl, mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of MHRB is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick porridge.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Use a bowl underneath containing hot water to warm your bark mush.
Add about 100ml naphtha for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush.
Stir the naphtha around all the bark. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes, making sure the bark mush is kept warm the whole time.

Wipe the bottom of your bowl dry, then gently pour off the naphtha into a container which will go in the freezer (optionally through a coffee filter to catch sediment). I use an 8 inch pyrex cake pan.
If the naphtha is at a low level in the container you may want to wrap it in saran wrap to prevent evaporation.

In a couple of hours the naphtha should get cloudy. Slowly over 8-12 hours the DMT will precipitate out of the naphtha and form crystals on the container.
When the naphtha is no longer cloudy then gently pour the naphtha off the crystals and back into your bark mush (you may use a coffee filter if you prefer).
Put the container on its side to allow the naphtha to evaporate. Keep it out of the sunlight because the crystals will melt into a goo at about 40C or so.

When the crystals no longer smell of naphtha they are ready to smoke or whatever. Keep in a dime bag or something. STORE IN A COOL DRY PLACE TO AVOID MELTING!

Your first pull will only contain a portion of the total DMT, I recommend warming the naptha, seperating and crystallizing again at 1 day, 2 days, 1 week and 2-3 weeks. Each pull will yeild less DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Put a dose of DMT crystals gently on the ball, then slowly heat it until they have all melted into it. At that point the ball can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

== Common issues/Troubleshooting ==

The teks are pretty comprehensive, so as long as you follow the steps you can expect success.

There are 5 likely causes of no DMT or very small yields of DMT. Each of them has to do with the quality of your core extraction materials:

'''1. Your Lime is not Calcium Hydroxide'''

This will mean that the PH of your basified bark mush is not low enough to convert the DMT-acetate to DMT freebase. Adding lime and water to the mix may fix this, but it depends on what your previous "lime" was.

'''2. Your Solvent was not the D-limonene/Xylene/Naptha that was mentioned in the Teks.'''

This will result in either no DMT being dissolved in the solvent, the solvent mixing with the bark, no precipitation of DMT, no salting of DMT or maybe something else. Most of these will result in unsalvageable Teks, so I hope you don't have this issue.

'''3. Your MHRB is not MHRB'''

This basically means you have no DMT to extract, so there is no solution to this issue other than getting yourself real MHRB

'''4: Your MHRB is not powdered'''

I have tried about 5x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and got a maximum of 5% the yield as powdered bark. If you have unused bark, you can try to powder it in a really strong blender, but most blenders can't powder MHRB. It might be better to just do a lye tek with your MHRB

'''5. Your vinegar is not 5% acetic acid'''

This will result in a successful, but 5x slower tek as it makes it a lime STB. You will have to wait much longer for the lime to work on the MHRB, but you just need patience and you'll get a full yield

 '''Good luck in all your life's endeavors! '''

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Limtek]]
[[Category:Acid/Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]

Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek

2020-07-04T22:44:19Z

Q21q21:

This tek is not Q21Q21's original idea but rather a culmination of many people's ideas. It is NOT perfect so if you can think of a better way to do ANY part of it then try it and PM me if it works! The tek is written in first person but they are Q21Q21's words.

(Q21Q21 being a fictional alien entity... with internet access)'''

 This tek was inspired by: '''Blueskine''' whose idea for freebasing acetates with heat changed my life! '''Noman''' whose tek on erowid inspired my first extraction '''69ron''' and his mescaline tek that taught me the power of lime '''amor_fati''' whose tek inspired me to try a vinegar step and made the tek over 10x faster '''SyZyGyPSy''' was the first person to report using limonene to extract spice '''Anyone whose post was read and forgot who posted it, you all helped.''' '''Lye''' which is so toxic and nasty.

_____________________
== Introduction ==

'''As a comprehensive guide there's lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.'''

'''If you would like to get right into the "What do I do?" then you can start by reading the Super-short Compressed Tek. (Then the full tek later)
'''
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_1 Tek 1 (Uses xylene/d-limonene)]
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_2 Tek 2 (Uses naphtha)]

== Background Information ==

=== The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark ===

While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis (abbreviated as MHRB)

[[image:MHRBthing.png]]

Mimosa Hostilis Plant, Whole Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark (MHRB), Shredded MHRB, Powdered MHRB

Mimosa Hostilis is a shrub that contains '''N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' and 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids (and some TINY amounts of NMT) in its root-bark . 

Discussions about suppliers of MHRB are no longer allowed on the DMT-Nexus, so it's best to do outside-Nexus searches for suppliers.

'''An extremely important note''' is that I have tried about 10x to get this tek to work with shredded bark and failed each time. Powdered MHRB is the only thing I'd recommend to buy as most blenders cannot powder MHRB properly.

=== Info about the 3 types of DMT contained in MHRB ===

Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information. '''Methods:''' [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Pharmahuasca Pharmahuasca], [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Guide_to_Mucosahuasca Mucosahuasca] or [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17873 Smoking]

''' White N-N-DMT'''
 
 [[Image:Crystals.JPG]] White DMT I extracted using Tek 2

'''White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' is pure DMT. MHRB usually contains about 1% of its weight in '''White DMT''', though yields from extractions of less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.

In the past the ultimate goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just '''White DMT''' in it. 

'''Red "Jungle" DMT'''

[[Image:SANY0069.JPG]] Thick dark red Jungle DMT extracted from by fully depleting the MHRB using naptha, then pulling with xylene

"Jungle" DMT is also contained in the bark but cannot be extracted into crystals like '''White DMT'''

Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produces effects similar in duration and effects to '''White DMT'''. 
I strongly believe the yellow DMT which MANY people prefer to pure '''White DMT''' is in fact small amounts of Jungle DMT mixed with the '''White DMT.''' I think the cause of this is because Jungle DMT is ever so slightly soluble in naptha.
An [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=156691 analysis] was done on this Jungle DMT and it is mostly (95%) DMT. Nonetheless I and many others still believe Jungle DMT produces noticeably different effects.

'''Yellow DMT-N-oxide'''

[[Image:SANY0050.JPG]] Crystallized DMT-N-oxide made with peroxide and white DMT

DMT-N-oxide was previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, but in fact Oxides seems unlikely to be present in the extracted DMT in significant amounts at all. (as I mentioned I believe that yellow is Jungle DMT)
 I and many others have smoked DMT which has been in ambient air for months/years without any significant loss of potency. 
Considering my tests (using the Oxides in the picture) suggest Oxides are about 1/3 or less potent than '''white DMT''' or jungle DMT when smoked (waiting on replication of this test to be positive though) then I conclude Oxides are insignificant and need not be worried about.

'''Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product'''

[[Image:Capture.PNG]]

Jimjam DMT I extracted using Tek 1 with d-limonene

If all the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum product called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during Tek 1.

Jimjam is considered by many to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though yields from extractions of more than 2% are not unheard of.

DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like Jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries - make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.

=== About the 2 teks ===
 [[Image:Suolvents.png]] 

Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naphtha they will be referred to as "the solvent"

In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used. '''Tek 2''' uses '''naphtha''' (lighter fluid) while
Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner but also used to dissolve HIPS 3D-printing supports)

(Vegetable oil can also apparently be used for Tek 1, you can search the Nexus for the many long threads talking about using it as a solvent)

'''Naphtha''' needs to be heated to dissolve or else it won't dissolve anything but its unique solubility properties allow for '''White DMT''' to be crystallized out when it is cooled in a freezer.
'''Tek 2''' thus involves a heating-step and a freezer-step that Tek 1 does not have. However, naphtha does not dissolve Jungle DMT very well so the extracted product will be almost entirely '''white DMT''' and leave the Jungle DMT in the MHRB.

d-limonene and xylene dissolve both '''white DMT''' and Jungle DMT at room temperate so Tek 1 doesn't need a heating step. Because of that it will yield full-spectrum product Jimjam DMT but since it is soluble, even when the solvent is cold, freezer precipitation doesn't work, so one of many different methods can be used to isolate the Jimjam DMT from the solvent.

Useful to know: If d-limonene is used, the tek will be

''<nowiki>*100% food-safe*</nowiki>'' 

Note:d-limonene still smells very strong and lingers in your house

'''For a first-timer [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Tek_2:_The_Fluffy_White_Funfest Tek 2] may be better advised than Tek 1 because it requires fewer steps and is well-suited for very small test batches like 30g-50g MHRB. I recommend Tek 1 for larger batches.

That being said, both teks are quite simple - comparable to baking a cake.'''

=== A little info on Lime ===
 [[Image:Lime.png]] 

'''The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is a replacement for lye which is very caustic and toxic.'''

lime is known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.

Until recently using caustic and toxic '''Sodium Hydroxide''' (lye, drain cleaner) was the only option as the base when extracting DMT. Lye is very potentially dangerous

These Teks instead use '''Lime'''. '''Lime''' is a powerful base that is actually food safe. It is powerfully alkaline so take care not to get it in your eyes or inhale it and wash your hands after touching it.

There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities. 

'''Here are some tips:'' Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums. So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores.

Local availability varies all the way from none to lots depending on country/location. If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.

If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally. Look on the internet for something and confirm that it is pure Ca(OH)2 before purchasing it from a reputable vendor.

If I haven't made this clear enough, let me end this section with a final clarification:
You MUST use proper lime for this tek to work! Make sure you do, good luck!

== Tek 1: The Jimjam party ==

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:''' 
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

Extraction Specific: 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH) 30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2) 125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark) Some Sealable and shakeable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel one Turkey baster or pipette(HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one Stove or Kettle one Pot or Pan

Useful tools one or more Funnels one Rice cooker one Baking pan/large surface area container one or more razor blades/scrapers one or two high quality mason jars 

Tincture tools one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml) one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses one spoon one lighter/candle/heat source

=== Preparation: ===
 [[Image:Materials.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I highly recommend not skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the non-polar wash'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Non-polar Wash: ===
 [[Image:Dlime.jpg]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear d-limonene solvent floating on top

Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted '''''

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g) 

'''Step 2:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:''' mix with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:''' you can just roll the container around in your hands to mix it.

Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

Mix it well several times over 40-60 minutes. (I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

'''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY.'''

'''Step 3:''' Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''
Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over a solvent-safe container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Note:Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Alternative Next-Steps ===
'''Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method.
There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB (Step 4)] by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead.

'''↓My preferred method is below↓'''

=== Acid Wash/Salting: ===
 [[Image:IMG_20200528_061727.jpg]]

Cloudy d-limonene floating on top of yellowish vinegar

'''''This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.'''''

Note 1: Xylene and D-Limonene are very leaky, most containers will eventually start leaking during the salting process. I recommend high quality mason jars that you’ve tested the lids to make sure the solvent doesn’t react with.

'''Step 1:''' Pour some vinegar into the sealable container with the solvent. About 2 shot glasses full.

'''Step 2:''' Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefer to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. Emulsions in this step always resolve pretty easily. No need to be careful.

Agitate the container 3-4 times over 40-60 minutes. The solvent will quickly start to get cloudy and the vinegar will gradually get more yellow.

You don’t have to wait until the solvent gets clear, it doesn’t seem to relate to the process being finished.

'''Step 3:''' Use a turkey baster/pipette to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container. As with the other liquid separations, 90% is okay.

Note 2: Try to get as little of the solvent during the separation as possible. This solvent will leave plant oils and other junk in your end product. That being said, a 1mm layer of solvent atop your vinegar is common using this method.

'''Step 4:'''
Repeat steps 1-3 once in exactly the same way, combine the separated vinegar pulls in a sealable container. Keep it safe because any spill will be a loss of lots of DMT!

For those that want DMT as soon as possible, proceed immediately on to the condensing step after Step 4.

'''Step 5:''' For those more patient/lazy, plan for your next non-polar solvent use.

'''The most efficient/least effort extraction:'''

'''Non-polar pull #1''' - 6-8 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #2''' - 24 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #3''' - 48 hours after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the above 3 pulls should contain 80-90% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all of the vinegar from pulls 1-3 and proceed to the condensing step.

'''Non-polar pull #4''' - 1 week after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''Non-polar pull #5''' - 2-3 weeks after adding the lime - then use vinegar to salt out the DMT

'''~the 5 pulls together should contain at least 95% of the total DMT~'''

Combine all the vinegar from pulls 4-5 and do another condensing.

=== Condensing: ===
 [[Image:Condensing.jpg]]

The process of condensing vinegar from light yellow liquid to a dense red tincture

'''This step is just to concentrate the vinegar containing the DMT down to a dense liquid "tincture" which can easily measure dosages by number of drops.'''

The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all of your DMT maintaining a consistent concentration. This tincture will keep indefinitely, I have used the same for 3+ years with no loss of potency.

Note 1: You could technically evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smokeable product. But that would result in a goo which is very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air. I honestly wouldn't recommend it that method though.

'''There are many steps to do in the condensing, so I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar saltings into one because it makes your house smell very vinegary and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times. Moreover, combining tinctures changes their concentrations, requiring re-measuring.'''

'''Step 1:''' Filter the vinegar through a cotton ball in a funnel, then add a bit of water to wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball and pour it all in a pot.

'''Step 2:''' Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 40-50ml

'''Step 3:''' Remove the pot from heat, then use a dropper to carefully filter the liquid through a cotton ball then wash the vinegar out of the cotton ball again with water

'''Step 4:''' Lower the heat to medium low and watch it carefully until it is around starts to become red in color.

Note 2: You can estimate the resulting liquid based on the amount of MHRB used. The combined vinegar from 3 solvent pulls will result in roughly 1tsp/5ml for every 100g MHRB used at 10mg/drop. Generally it's much less liquid than you expect, especially if you're used to dosing with crystals.

'''Step 5:''' As the liquid becomes redder and redder, '''before the liquid is all gone,''' remove the pot from heat, tip the pot to the side and use a dropper to transfer your tincture to a dropper bottle.

'''It is a delicate balance of not removing all liquid, but getting a good concentration. It is best to aim for a little less liquid than a little more for 2 reasons:

You’ll need to rinse the pot with a few mL of water to get all the DMT off, adding additional liquid to the tincture

Adding more liquid is extremely simple, while removing liquid means doing the condensing again.'''

'''A tincture can vary hugely based on a few factors. The color is a simple general indicator of the concentration. Here are pictures of 3 different concentration levels:'''

[[Image:Captude.PNG]]

5mg per drop

[[Image:Capturfde.PNG]]

10mg per drop

[[Image:Captufdare.PNG]]

15mg per drop

More concentration can be done, but tinctures will get thicker and thicker until they are a thick goo (at room temperature) of pure DMT at around 50mg per drop.

For those wanting a more formal measurement of the concentration, proceed on to next optional section.

=== Measuring the tincture: ===
 Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.

Quantitative Concentration (numerical):

- Drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster.

- Put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) '''NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!'''

- Once the liquid has dissolved and it smells strongly, but not of vinegar, turn off the element and let it sit until cool enough to handle.

During the cooling, measure the weight of a razor blade using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.

- Remove the coaster from the element then scrape up the goo with a razor and measured using the scale.

- Subtract the weight of the razor blade then divide the number by 10 and that is the concentration per drop.

- Label the tincture with the concentration.

Note: Don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change!

Qualitative Concentration (subjective): This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca - Use one of the methods from the next section to evaporate 1 drop of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. - If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 2 drops, then 3, 4, etc. until adequate effects are achieved. - Concentration will then be *number* drops = Mild *number* drops = Strong *number* drops = Breakthrough *number* drops = Too Strong!

- Label the tincture with the recommended drops for a dosage.

=== Evaporation and Smoking: ===
 [[Image:Evaporatinsssg.png]]

Preparing a dose using the slow method and smoking DMT off copper using a home-made glass pipe and home-made glass bong

'''''After evaporating all the liquid from some of the tincture you are left with nearly pure DMT acetate goo. DMT acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and decomposes into freebase DMT with heat, so it is readily smokable (and doesn't taste like vinegar)'''''

The Slow and Patient Method

Simply put a number of drops of tincture for a single dose of DMT on your smoking material and let it dry for a few hours before smoking.

'''Smoking materials:'''

Enhanced Herb/Changa

Ceramic Fiber Ball (to be tested)

Pre-Charred Copper Kitchen Scrubber Ball

Caution: Vinegar on copper may result in smoking small amounts of copper acetate which is not good for you. I cannot formally recommend this method for long term health without more information/research

The Hot and Quick Method

Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!

'''1: On Glass - Stove/Oven Method'''

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a flat glass coaster (I got my from the dollar store and then removed the rubber feet and glue from the bottom)

- Put the glass onto an electric stove element or into an oven at AS LOW AS POSSIBLE (do not use a gas stovetop)

- After the liquid evaporated and it doesn’t smell of vinegar it is ready. Usually about 1-2 minutes or 5 for fewer drops

- You can either:

a: Scrape up the liquid with a razor blade and transfer it to any smoking material

b: Let the glass cool to the touch then scrape it up with some herb/copper mesh

Note: hot DMT-acetate goo is very liquidy and hard to scrape up, the closer to room temperature it is, the thicker and easier it will be to scrape up.

'''2: With a Spoon - Lighter/Candle Method'''

Note:As much as this method might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.

- Drop a dose of DMT from the tincture onto a spoon then heat it from below with a lighter or candle flame. Be careful not to heat too quickly or it will spatter and DMT some will be lost.

- Continue to heat until the liquid has all gone and you’re left with a thin red liquidy goo that smells strongly but not of vinegar. A hot spoon will rapidly evaporate excess liquid without a flame below, so you can stop heating slightly before the process is finished.

- Carefully scrape up the goo with some herb/copper mesh. It’s usually best to let it cool for at least 30s before doing so to avoid burning yourself and allowing the goo to cool and thicken.

'''A quick warning about stability.'''

You could make lots of doses ahead of time with the slow or quick method, but DMT-acetate seems somewhat unstable outside the tincture. I have some ongoing tests to assess the stability of DMT in this method. The only 2 data points I have so far are:

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment, 1 week = no potency loss.

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment, 1 month = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 2 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 3 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 6 months = ???? (test in process)

On metal mesh, in a hot humid environment: 1 year = completely degraded and unsmokable

=== Smoking: ===

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

Whether DMT crystals are melted on it, or DMT-acetate goo is put on them doesn't matter, you create a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50), most of them should work relatively interchangeably with DMT-acetates because the crystals are usually melted into a goo before smoking anyway.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 1 ===
You'll need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)
 Dropper Bottle
 Hot Plate/Stovetop
 Copper Kitchen Scrubber
 Turkey baster/pipette (solvent-safe!)

First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick tomato soup.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Add 150ml or more xylene or d-Limonene for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent, this is normal.
Stir the solvent around all the bark-mush. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes.

Gently pour off the solvent (might need to filter it) into a separate solvent-safe container.

Add 2 shot-glasses of vinegar into the solvent and agitate it a few times over 40-50 minutes

Use a turkey baster/pipette to separate the vinegar at the bottom to a separate container then repeat one more time with fresh vinegar

Put the solvent back on the bark-mush. I recommend pouring it off and doing the vinegar step at 1 day and 2 days, early pulls will yield less.

Combine all the vinegar pulls you have and carefully evaporate them until they start turning red. (you can optionally filter it)

Look at the condensing step for a color reference for a good concentration. It is most likely going to be much less liquid than you expect as it is very potent.

Transfer the liquid to a dropper bottle. Now you have a liquid that can be measured by number of drops and when evaporated (with or without heat) leaves a red goo which is readily smokable DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Scrub up the DMT with the ball and it can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

----

== Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest ==

=== About Naphtha ===
 Naphtha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though its toxicity is quite benign. '''Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.''' The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naphtha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.

Plus 2 things: 1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple of hours. 2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.

Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.

If you are in the US then VM+P Naphtha is your choice. If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices. If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it: 1. Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs) 2. Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.

(What your product will could like if you follow the tek) [[Image:Spicee.jpg]]

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:'''
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the naphtha and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority of problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it, '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD."'''

 Two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naphtha won't dissolve/degrade) one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best) one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation one freezer 30g or more ''Mimosa hostilis'' root bark (MHRB) 50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH) Some Lime Ca(OH)2 100ml or more Naphtha one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)

Useful tools a few Playing cards one or more razor blades/scrapers Some coffee filters 

=== Preparation: ===
[[Image:Materials2.png]]

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

This Tek can get a little messy, so it's best to have everything prepared ahead of time. Above is a picture of your core materials, but make sure to read through the whole material list for everything you might need. Have everything you need nearby so you don't have to make a random trip to a store, halting the Tek.

Also I recommend always having the Tek open an a computer/phone for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates a risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product. (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification: ===
 [[Image:Acid_bark.JPG]]

'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary.'''''

Note 1: this step does not need to be too "exact".

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 100g is recommended, this tek does not work with shredded/whole MHRB)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other.

The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes.

Add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (it will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB).

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes (longer won't hurt though). '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''.

Note 2: If you were to choose not to do the acidification step (thus doing a STB lime tek) it would work... but that would make the tek take at least 5x as long to complete. I highly recommend not skipping the vinegar step! The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the Tek.

=== Basification: ===
 [[Image:SANY0264_(2).JPG]]

A basified mix of MHRB at Consistency 2

'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary.'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB.) Don't be fussy though, more lime will not hurt.

For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g.

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure white lime is mixed and there is no more red. The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing - that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

There are 3 different consistencies that you can shoot for with a lime-tek. Each one will require slightly different methods of mixing and separating the solvent, but none of them are obviously superior so I'll just briefly talk about them.

'''Once you have achieved your desired consistency, move on the the non-polar wash'''

1 - Dry and Crumbly

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add lime until the mix is pretty dry, then either let it dry at room temperature or in an oven on low until dry and crumbly

Pros:

This one seems to have the least amount of solvent loss, but still will absorb a noticeable amount over time.

Cons:

Requires extra lime and time to create the consistency

Pouring the solvent off can result in bits of sediment at the bottom, so filtering is recommended

If there are large chunks, the solvent may not fully penetrate them

2 - Thick Porridge

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water or lime until it resembles a thick porridge

Pros:

Easiest to achieve and work with in my opinion

Cons:

Greatest solvent loss of the 3 methods

3 - Tomato Soup-like

How to achieve it:

After step 2, add water until it resembles a thick and grainy soup that easily flows as a whole when its container is tilted

Pros:

Medium solvent loss

Can be used in a sealed bottle or a bowl

Note: Xylene and d-limonene love to leak out of sealed containers! HDPE2 milk jugs and high quality mason jars work well

Cons:

Heavier and easier to spill

Can form emulsions with solvent (usually only with vigorous agitation)

=== Non-Polar Wash: ===
 [[Image:Napthaandgoo.JPG]]

A large batch of MHRB-lime mush in a bowl with clear naptha solvent floating on top

'''Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naphtha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is is essential if a pure product is to be extracted.'''

CAUTION: Naphtha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do this in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan). Also if it is left for several hours the naphtha will all be gone.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Solvent loss is very typical in limeteks, it is basically a necessary evil you need to accept. Losing 50-100ml of solvent during a pull with a large batch of MHRB is quite common for me. Just make sure you have much more solvent than you need and you won’t have a problem.

'''When to do your pulls:'''

I recommend to do the first pull after the lime has had 6-8 hours to work on the bark, this is the most efficient time to get a quick good yield. A pull done at this time usually gets you around 30-50% of the total DMT in the MHRB.

If you do a pull right after adding the lime, it will work, but will be more like 10-25% of the total DMT

After your first pull, I recommend one at ~24 hours and one at ~48 hours. These 3 pulls together should yield you 80-90% of the total DMT

Pulls after that tend to be rather inefficient. If you want to extract all the DMT, I recommend 2 additional pulls: at 1 week and at 2 or 3 weeks. All 5 pulls combined should yield you over 95% of the total DMT.

'''Step 1:''' Get a large bowl that your bark-mush container/bowl can easily fit in. Place your container/bowl inside the bottom bowl then add boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the container/bowl or as close to that as possible. This will warm the bark mush indirectly and safely.

'''Step 2:''' Add 1ml naphtha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naphtha or more for 100g MHRB) The naphtha should stay completely separate from the bark and remain transparent.

'''Step 3:'''Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mix as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:''' stir the bark-mush around to contact the solvent with a spoon or chopstick. You can mix it pretty well without getting an emulsion in my experience, but no need to be vigorous when mixing.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Danger: Warm naphtha produces lots of expanding fumes, so you MUST vent it frequently whenever it is closed and if you are using something that may shatter, put on gloves and safety glasses.

When the bark-naptha mush has been warmed, but is not too hot to handle, seal the container and roll the container around in your hands to mix it. Regularly open the container to vent the pressure from the warm naptha. Be very careful not to mix too vigorously or you can get a nasty emulsion (all of the solvent stuck in the bark mix).

For either the bowl or the container, mix well several times over 40-60 minutes,(I’ve done experiments that suggest pulls under 30 minutes do not completely dissolve the DMT-freebase into the solvent.)

Place the container/bowl in the hot water when you’re not mixing. Feel the outside of the bowl/container with the bark-mush from time to time and if it is no longer warm then you can replace/add more boiling water in the bowl underneath.

'''Step 4:''' Clean and dry your precipitation container

I find it easiest to work with a small glass cake-baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals. You can use any naphtha-safe container though, the crystals sometimes float around in plastic containers, but not always.

'''Step 5:'''Separate the solvent from the lime-bark mix. You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent, 90% is a good goal. Trying for more usually results in frustration and getting bark-mush in the solvent.

'''If you have it in a bowl:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container, DRY THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL then very carefully pour the solvent into the funnel.

'''If you have it in a sealable container:'''

Prepare a funnel with a cotton ball in the neck over your precipitation container container then use a turkey baster or pipette to suck up the solvent and squirt by squirt put it through the funnel.

Once your solvent is in you precipication container, proceed to the next step. If you see some clear liquid (water) under your naptha, this is not good for the next step. Add the solvent back to the bark and immediately do the seperation again.

Note:Although you can do another pull with fresh solvent while you are working with the pull you just separated, it probably is not worth the effort and is just wasteful.

=== Precipitation/Crystallization: ===
 [[Image:Spices.JPG]]
'''This step works on the principal that naphtha can dissolve DMT-freebase quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naphtha with DMT-freebase dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.'''

'''Step 1:''' Just pop the naphtha straight into the freezer. If the naphtha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry this is normal. The naphtha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow.

Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but although naptha smells pretty strong, it doesn't linger too long like d-limonene or xylene. I sometimes leave it uncovered without issue.

'''Step 3:''' Keep the naphtha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming. If the naphtha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT-freebase molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.

'''Step 4:''' Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take your precipitation container out of the freezer and very gently pour off the naphtha back into your bark-mush.
Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors) place to lean the container against, the few drops of excess naphtha will drip off and all of the naptha surrounding the crystals will evaporate in a couple of hours. Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, however usually just SLOWLY pouring the naphtha off works fine. You may use a coffee filter to catch them if you prefer.

'''Once it no longer smells like naphtha the DMT-freebase is ready! Scrape them up with a razor or a small spoon and put in a small sealable container or baggie for storage. Keep it in a COOL DRY PLACE because DMT crystals will simply melt on a hot day'''

'''Additional Naptha Pulls:'''
As I mentioned before, there are recommended timings for pulling with naptha, but they are planned so you don't need to use extra solvent.
My recommended proceedure is as follows:

Warm and Pull either immediately or at 6-8 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 24 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 48 hours after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''The above 3 pulls should total 80-90% of the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Warm and Pull at 1 week after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

Warm and Pull at 2-3 after adding the lime then seperate and crystallize in the freezer

'''All 5 pulls together should contain 95% or more than the total DMT in your MHRB'''

Final Notes on Extracting with Tek 2:

- The first pull will generally be the whitest and each additional pull will be slightly more yellow. You won't notice the difference when smoking though. Also, your DMT will turn more yellow during long periods of time.

- There may be a small film underneath the crystals. I am pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT which are both readily smokable and psychoactive like the white crystals.

- You can do a re-crystallization for larger crystals (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Recrystallization)

- If the first 2 pulls don't cloud or precipitate crystals after 8-12 hours then check something in the extraction did not work correctly. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Common_issues.2FTroubleshooting Common issues/Troubleshooting] because that should not happen.

- Technically you can make a tincture from Tek 2 by salting the naptha with vinegar or dissolving the crystals in vinegar. This will produce a beautiful amber-colored liquid that can be measured in 2-3 drops rather than with a scale. This is my prefered method, but I know everyone loves pretty crystals this might take some of the magic out of Tek 2 for many people.

=== Smoking: ===

[[Image:IMG 20200703 121449.jpg]]

I have pretty much no experience smoking off herb as I don't like it. So can only speak about smoking off metal scrubbers.

These scrubbers are pretty much DMT's best friend. A device using these scrubbers is deamed "the machine". (https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine) I cut and roll up mesh kitchen scrubbers at about 2cm x 2cm then after charring off the varnish, cooling them and then re-rolling them they are about 1cm x 1cm.

You just gently put your DMT crystals on the ball then warm it with a ligher until they have melted and coated the metal and you've created a nearly fool-proof DMT smoking method. The "machine ball" can be placed in any bowl in any bong/pipe on earth and smoked nearly effortlessly. I recommend a jet lighter, not because you need lots of heat, but so you can direct the flame accurately. But any decent lighter should work.

As for what to smoke it out of, of course there are tons of different smoking devices, but I’ve had the most positive experiences smoking from a bong. I made my own bongs from plastic and glass, but any bong will do.

There is a whole sub-forum on the DMT nexus about different methods of smoking (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=50)explore and find your favorite one.

Best of luck in Hyperspace!

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 2 ===
You need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 Naphtha
 Freezer

First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 75g or more lime for every 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick porridge.
Let it sit for about an 1-6 hours, stirring periodically. The closer to 6 hours you the more DMT you'll get on your first pull

Use a bowl underneath containing hot water to warm your bark mush.
Add about 100ml naphtha for every 100g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush.
Stir the naphtha around all the bark. Stir periodically over 40-50 minutes, making sure the bark mush is kept warm the whole time.

Wipe the bottom of your bowl dry, then gently pour off the naphtha into a container which will go in the freezer (optionally through a coffee filter to catch sediment). I use an 8 inch pyrex cake pan.
If the naphtha is at a low level in the container you may want to wrap it in saran wrap to prevent evaporation.

In a couple of hours the naphtha should get cloudy. Slowly over 8-24 hours the DMT will precipitate out of the naphtha and form crystals on the container.
When the naphtha is no longer cloudy then gently pour the naphtha off the crystals and back into your bark mush (you may use a coffee filter if you prefer).
Put the container on its side to allow the naphtha to evaporate. Watch the sun because the crystals will melt into a goo at about 40C or so.

When the crystals no longer smell of naphtha they are ready to smoke or whatever. Keep in a dime bag or something. STORE IN A COOL DRY PLACE TO AVOID MELTING!

Your first pull will only contain a portion of the total DMT, I recommend warming the naptha, seperating and crystallizing again at 1 day, 2 days, 1 week and 2-3 weeks. Each pull will yeild less DMT.

The easiest smoking method is making a small ball out of a copper kitchen scrubber, burning off the vanish, then rolling it tight. Put a dose of DMT crystals gently on the ball, then slowly heat it until they have all melted into it. At that point the ball can be smoked out of any bowl in any pipe or bong.

== Common issues/Troubleshooting ==
 '''If the first 2 pulls (or pulls >2 hours after adding lime) don't seem to be yielding much or any DMT then there are a few questions you can ask to find the issue: '''
 '''Question 1:''' Was your lime Calcium Hydroxide (Ca(OH)2)? 
'''Solution 1:''' If the answer was "no" (look up MSDS) then real lime will need to be added in the amount mentioned in the tek as well as enough water to create the correct consistency.
 This error can cause the tek to become a STB rather than an A/B. Lime STB teks take 36-48 hours for the solvent to pull a significant amount of DMT so that may end up being what happens.

'''Questions 2:''' Was the mush mixed thoroughly enough? Was it too dry?
 '''Solutions 2:''' A little more water or mixing if done quickly may immediately fix the problem but may create a STB situation metioned in Solution 1.

'''Questions 3:'''(Tek 2 only) Is your naphtha suitable for use in freezer-precipitating DMT? (less likely) Did you use way too much?
 '''Solutions 3:''' If No to the first, look up the MSDS on the naphtha or look up previous forum posts (avoid making entirely new post if possible).
 If No to the 2nd you may need to evaporate a portion of the naphtha (not with heat, use fan to speed up room-temp evaporation). I've never had to do that though.

'''Question 4''': Was the vinegar added regular white vinegar suitable for this extraction?
 '''Solution 4''':If no, this will cause a STB situation mentioned in Solution 1

'''Question 5:''' Is your MHRB actually MHRB which contains DMT?
 '''Solution 5:''' Buy some real MHRB. I cannot recommend any suppliers due to the rules of the nexus, but wherever you get it make sure they have lots of positive reviews!
 '''Good luck in all your life's endeavors! '''

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Limtek]]
[[Category:Acid/Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]

File:IMG 20200703 121449.jpg

2020-07-04T22:43:37Z

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