DMT-Nexus Wiki - User contributions [en]

Cybs' Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek

2012-12-07T23:33:14Z

Non Dua Natura:

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek<ref>Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek - 5th September 2012[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=381707#post381707]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}

==Introduction==
This a hybridized ATB tek developed by Cyb for the extraction of DMT from Mimosa Hostilis root bark; this is a very straightforward, and apparently high-yielding[1] method put together with the newbie kitchen alchemist in mind and using easy-to-source solvents, bases and equipment. The tek may be suitable for extracting from other organic materials, such as acacia although there is no information on yields or success rates so far.[2]

Original Post: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=381707#post381707 Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek]

Download: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=13453 PDF]
==Required Equipment==
[[File:Cyb-Tekpic1-EQUIPMENT.jpg|right|thumb|Required Equipment]]

* Mimosa Hostilis Bark (Powdered)
* 1-Litre Mixing Bottle or Jar (With Lid)
* De-ionised (or Distilled) Water
* Lye (Caustic Soda)
* White (Distilled) Vinegar
* Naphtha (Lighter Fluid, e.g. Swan, Ronsonol, Newport)
* Spare Jam Jar (Storage of used naptha)
* Funnel
* Glass Measuring Jug
* Turkey Baster
* Scales (Milligram)
* Glass Roasting Dish (x3) (Not Shown)
* Food Wrap/Cling-film (Not Shown)

==Step-by-Step Guide==
==Step One: Weighing the Bark==

We are using 50g (approx) in this Tek.

Use powdered bark; if you have shredded bark, put it in a glass blender and whiz it up good until powdered. Some fibrous material will remain...that’s fine.
==Step Two: Material in Container==

Put the Bark in the mixing bottle/jar, using the funnel if necessary.
==Step Three: Acidifying==

#Put 200ml De-ionised water in a pan, add 60ml vinegar and bring to ''just'' boiling.
#Pour the acidic solution into the mixing bottle.
#Put some tap water in a pan and bring to the boil, then turn off the heat.
#Shake the bottle and place in the heat bath.
#Shake/mix occasionally and re-heat if necessary.
#Leave to soak for '''at least''' one hour.
==Step Four: Salting==

#Weigh out 30g of salt; preferably a good quality salt, although any table salt will do.
#Put 100ml of de-ionised water in a pan and heat to nearly boiling.
#Add the 30g salt and stir until dissolved.
#Pour the saturated saline solution into the bottle.
==Step Five: Basifying==

'''This step uses lye/caustic soda; the author offers the following caveat regarding its usage and its neutralization in the event of spillage''': ''Caution: Lye is extremely dangerous...do not get any on your skin or eyes. Use gloves if you have them. Vinegar will neutralise any spills. Never pour Hot water on top of lye...it will react violently and splash.'' 

#Weigh out 50g of Sodium Hydroxide (Lye/Caustic Soda).
#Put 200ml of '''cold''' de-ionised water into the measuring jug.
#Slowly add the 50g of lye to the water and stir using a metal spoon until it is all dissolved.
#Carefully add the caustic solution to the bottle.
#Top up with 140ml de-ionised water to the bottle; the overall volume should be around 700ml altogether now.
#Shake the mixture up; it should go very dark...almost black.
#Put the bottle in a heat bath as before and soak for at least 1 hour, re-heating the pan if necessary.
#Shake the mixture occasionally to prevent settling.
==Step Six: Adding the Non-Polar Solvent==

#Measure out 50ml of naphtha (lighter fluid) and pour into the bottle.
#Lightly shake and roll the mixture in a 'figure of 8' fashion for 20-30 seconds.
#Unscrew the cap momentarily to release any pressure build-up then tighten again.
#Place back in a heat bath. (Heated pulls draw more product)
#Leave for a while until the naphtha separates again.
#Repeat this '''four times''' (shake/separate). This should take around 45 mins.
==Step Seven: Pulling==

#After the 4 x naphtha mixing, carefully suck out all the naphtha from the top layer with the turkey baster and squirt it into a glass roasting dish. This takes a bit of patience and skill. Be very careful not to disturb the basified mix (black layer) - Do not suck up any of the basified mix. If you can’t get the last bit, you can suck up the naphtha and a bit of the basified mix and place them in a drinks glass and wait a short time to separate again. It will be easier to see the layering and retrieve the last bit. Use an eyedropper if necessary.
#The first pulls may be heavily saturated and turn milky when it hits the dish: This is a good sign. Later pulls may look clear or yellowy, but this is fine.
#Tightly pull food wrap around the dish to form a sealed lid, airtight and watertight.
#Put the dish straight in the freezer.
#Repeat Steps Six and Seven '''four more times''', giving '''five pulls''' in total.
#Place the 'pulls’ in the freezer for 12-18 hours, ideally overnight. Do not disturb them, it’s tempting to look but try not to.
edit: You can keep pulling until no more product comes out...then you can consider the bark depleted.

==Step Eight: After the Freeze==

#After 12/18 hours in the freezer, take out the dishes one by one and suck out or pour out the naphtha into your storage jam jar, or you can reuse for the next pull.
#Place the dishes upside down on a cloth for a few minutes to drain off excess naphtha.

''Speed is critical here''; you want to do this as fast as possible because the product will want to re-dissolve into any remaining naphtha at room temperature. Try not to get any water droplets in the dishes.
==Step Nine: Drying==

Straight away, place the dishes against a wall and blow a cold fan over them for at least 20 minutes.

You want to make sure '''ALL''' the naphtha (and any water drops) has evaporated. No smell of solvent should remain.
==Step Ten: Scraping==

It may look like "Snow Globe" crystals '''or''' (as shown) a layer of dried gooey oil with white dots (crystals) growing on top.

*Use a blade to scrape all the crystals/oil together.

*Scrape all the dishes; you may have some in the freezer for the next day, just scrape them after the drying.

*Place on a piece of paper for further drying.

At this point, after five pulls you have around 1g of product that is perfectly useable. Some even prefer the yellow (full spectrum) stuff, but if you want to purify further to get whiter, fluffier crystal...here’s how.
==Step Eleven: Re-X (The Extra Mile)==
===Required Equipment===
*A small glass or shot glass for separation.
*A small glass or small dish for crystallization in the freezer.
*A jam jar for heating the naphtha.

===The (Re-)Crystal Method===

#Place your product in the small shot glass.
#Put around 40/50ml of Naphtha in the jar.
#Next place the jar in a heat bath with a sieve in the pan, this stops it bubbling too hard. The lid should be just resting on the jar to prevent fumes from escaping. '''DO NOT''' screw the lid tight! The expanding fumes will create enough pressure to explode the jar. Heat/flames and lighter fluid = '''DISASTER'''!
#Heat the pan until boiling for a few minutes to heat the naphtha in the jar.
#Turn off the heat and take out the jar (use gloves, it will be hot!) and pour the naphtha into the shot glass with the product.
#Everything will dissolve into the naphtha and you will see the impurities start to separate and fall to the bottom. You can rest the glass in the heat bath to help if needed.
#After a few minutes you will need to decant the saturated naphtha into the other glass/dish leaving the impurities behind. Use an eyedropper if you have one or carefully pour it off. You can leave the impurities for the next time you Re-X or add a little more naphtha and try to get a little more.
edit: Remember that every little drop or smear of naphtha is loaded with product...so a good wash around with fresh naphtha will get it all.
#Now take your glass and put a tin foil lid on it to prevent dust and water vapour from getting in and put it in the fridge for 1 hour to cool.
edit: A shallow glass dish maybe better for scraping later.
#Put it in the freezer overnight.
#In the morning after 12/18 hours of Re-crystallising you will need to pour off the remaining naphtha and dry with a fan as before. It will take a lot of drying as the crystal layer will be deep and needs to be completely free of solvent.
#Scrape out and marvel at your handy work...Around 1g of fluffy product from 50g of bark.

<gallery>
File:Cyb-Tekpic1-EQUIPMENT.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_One:_Weighing_the_Bark Step One]: Weighing the Bark</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic2-ROOTBARK.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Two:_Material_in_Container Step Two]: Material in Container</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic3-BARKINJAR.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Three:_Acidifying Step Three]: Acidifying</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic4-JARINPAN.jpg|<center>Step Three (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic5-SALTWEIGHT.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Four:_Salting Step Four]: Salting</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic6-SALTINWATER.jpg|<center>Step Four (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic7-LYEWEIGHT.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Five:_Basifying Step Five]: Basifying</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic8-SHAKENUPBLACK.jpg|<center>Step Five (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic9-JARINHEATBATH.jpg|<center>Step Five (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic10-NAPTHAMEASURE.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Six:_Adding_the_Non-Polar_Solvent Step Six]: Adding the Non-Polar Solvent</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic11-NAPTHASPLIT.jpg|<center>Step Six (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic12-NAPTHASPLITCLOSEUP.jpg|<center>Step Six (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic13-NAPTHAOUT.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Seven:_Pulling Step Seven]: Pulling</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic14-FIRSTPULL.jpg|<center>Step Seven (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic15-CLINGFILMEDTRAY.jpg|<center>Step Seven (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic16-INFREEZER-1.jpg|<center>Step Seven (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic17-INFREEZER-2.jpg|<center>Step Seven (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic18-POSTFREEZE-1.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Eight:_After_the_Freeze Step Eight]: After the Freeze</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic19-POSTFREEZE-2.jpg|<center>Step Eight (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic20-POSTFREEZE-3.jpg|<center>Step Eight (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic21-FANDRY.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Nine:_Drying Step Nine]: Drying</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic22-SCRAPING-1.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Ten:_Scraping Step Ten]: Scraping</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic23-SCRAPING-2.jpg|<center>Step Ten (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic24-SCRAPING-3.jpg|<center>Step Ten (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic25-FINALWEIGHT-PRE-X.jpg|<center>Step Ten (Cont.)</center>
</gallery>

==Additional Notes==
*Although I have included an acidic bath to begin with, this can be omitted and the extractor can go STB (Straight-To-Base) if they wish: Just start with the salt ([http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Four:_Salting Step Four]) and make sure you end up with 700ml of liquid.
*You can also omit the heat baths if you want to do the Tek 'cold' although the yield maybe affected.
*This Tek should produce around 2% Yield depending on the bark used, that's 1g of product per 50g of bark which equated to around 30-40 hits; enough for any beginner!
*New research by users indicate that salt can be used (with good results) with Acacia Extractions inc. A/B (Just add salt at the Basification Stage ([http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Five:_Basifying Step Five]))

Info on salting: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32567 Salt]

Methods of administration: [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine The Machine] - [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=35040 Cyb's Machine].

== Footnotes ==
[1] See responses to the original thread where yields of up to 1g of DMT have been reported from 50g of MHRB. 
[2] As of 04/12/12: This information is subject to change.

== Reference ==
<references/>

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Straight To Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]

Cybs' Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek

2012-12-07T23:32:49Z

Non Dua Natura: Markup change for amending pics.

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek<ref>Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek - 5th September 2012[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=381707#post381707]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}

==Introduction==
This a hybridized ATB tek developed by Cyb for the extraction of DMT from Mimosa Hostilis root bark; this is a very straightforward, and apparently high-yielding[1] method put together with the newbie kitchen alchemist in mind and using easy-to-source solvents, bases and equipment. The tek may be suitable for extracting from other organic materials, such as acacia although there is no information on yields or success rates so far.[2]

Original Post: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=381707#post381707 Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek]

Download: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=13453 PDF]
==Required Equipment==
[[File:Cyb-Tekpic1-EQUIPMENT.jpg|right|thumb|Required Equipment]]

* Mimosa Hostilis Bark (Powdered)
* 1-Litre Mixing Bottle or Jar (With Lid)
* De-ionised (or Distilled) Water
* Lye (Caustic Soda)
* White (Distilled) Vinegar
* Naphtha (Lighter Fluid, e.g. Swan, Ronsonol, Newport)
* Spare Jam Jar (Storage of used naptha)
* Funnel
* Glass Measuring Jug
* Turkey Baster
* Scales (Milligram)
* Glass Roasting Dish (x3) (Not Shown)
* Food Wrap/Cling-film (Not Shown)

==Step-by-Step Guide==
==Step One: Weighing the Bark==

We are using 50g (approx) in this Tek.

Use powdered bark; if you have shredded bark, put it in a glass blender and whiz it up good until powdered. Some fibrous material will remain...that’s fine.
===Step Two: Material in Container===

Put the Bark in the mixing bottle/jar, using the funnel if necessary.
==Step Three: Acidifying==

#Put 200ml De-ionised water in a pan, add 60ml vinegar and bring to ''just'' boiling.
#Pour the acidic solution into the mixing bottle.
#Put some tap water in a pan and bring to the boil, then turn off the heat.
#Shake the bottle and place in the heat bath.
#Shake/mix occasionally and re-heat if necessary.
#Leave to soak for '''at least''' one hour.
==Step Four: Salting==

#Weigh out 30g of salt; preferably a good quality salt, although any table salt will do.
#Put 100ml of de-ionised water in a pan and heat to nearly boiling.
#Add the 30g salt and stir until dissolved.
#Pour the saturated saline solution into the bottle.
==Step Five: Basifying==

'''This step uses lye/caustic soda; the author offers the following caveat regarding its usage and its neutralization in the event of spillage''': ''Caution: Lye is extremely dangerous...do not get any on your skin or eyes. Use gloves if you have them. Vinegar will neutralise any spills. Never pour Hot water on top of lye...it will react violently and splash.'' 

#Weigh out 50g of Sodium Hydroxide (Lye/Caustic Soda).
#Put 200ml of '''cold''' de-ionised water into the measuring jug.
#Slowly add the 50g of lye to the water and stir using a metal spoon until it is all dissolved.
#Carefully add the caustic solution to the bottle.
#Top up with 140ml de-ionised water to the bottle; the overall volume should be around 700ml altogether now.
#Shake the mixture up; it should go very dark...almost black.
#Put the bottle in a heat bath as before and soak for at least 1 hour, re-heating the pan if necessary.
#Shake the mixture occasionally to prevent settling.
==Step Six: Adding the Non-Polar Solvent==

#Measure out 50ml of naphtha (lighter fluid) and pour into the bottle.
#Lightly shake and roll the mixture in a 'figure of 8' fashion for 20-30 seconds.
#Unscrew the cap momentarily to release any pressure build-up then tighten again.
#Place back in a heat bath. (Heated pulls draw more product)
#Leave for a while until the naphtha separates again.
#Repeat this '''four times''' (shake/separate). This should take around 45 mins.
==Step Seven: Pulling==

#After the 4 x naphtha mixing, carefully suck out all the naphtha from the top layer with the turkey baster and squirt it into a glass roasting dish. This takes a bit of patience and skill. Be very careful not to disturb the basified mix (black layer) - Do not suck up any of the basified mix. If you can’t get the last bit, you can suck up the naphtha and a bit of the basified mix and place them in a drinks glass and wait a short time to separate again. It will be easier to see the layering and retrieve the last bit. Use an eyedropper if necessary.
#The first pulls may be heavily saturated and turn milky when it hits the dish: This is a good sign. Later pulls may look clear or yellowy, but this is fine.
#Tightly pull food wrap around the dish to form a sealed lid, airtight and watertight.
#Put the dish straight in the freezer.
#Repeat Steps Six and Seven '''four more times''', giving '''five pulls''' in total.
#Place the 'pulls’ in the freezer for 12-18 hours, ideally overnight. Do not disturb them, it’s tempting to look but try not to.
edit: You can keep pulling until no more product comes out...then you can consider the bark depleted.

==Step Eight: After the Freeze==

#After 12/18 hours in the freezer, take out the dishes one by one and suck out or pour out the naphtha into your storage jam jar, or you can reuse for the next pull.
#Place the dishes upside down on a cloth for a few minutes to drain off excess naphtha.

''Speed is critical here''; you want to do this as fast as possible because the product will want to re-dissolve into any remaining naphtha at room temperature. Try not to get any water droplets in the dishes.
==Step Nine: Drying==

Straight away, place the dishes against a wall and blow a cold fan over them for at least 20 minutes.

You want to make sure '''ALL''' the naphtha (and any water drops) has evaporated. No smell of solvent should remain.
==Step Ten: Scraping==

It may look like "Snow Globe" crystals '''or''' (as shown) a layer of dried gooey oil with white dots (crystals) growing on top.

*Use a blade to scrape all the crystals/oil together.

*Scrape all the dishes; you may have some in the freezer for the next day, just scrape them after the drying.

*Place on a piece of paper for further drying.

At this point, after five pulls you have around 1g of product that is perfectly useable. Some even prefer the yellow (full spectrum) stuff, but if you want to purify further to get whiter, fluffier crystal...here’s how.
==Step Eleven: Re-X (The Extra Mile)==
===Required Equipment===
*A small glass or shot glass for separation.
*A small glass or small dish for crystallization in the freezer.
*A jam jar for heating the naphtha.

===The (Re-)Crystal Method===

#Place your product in the small shot glass.
#Put around 40/50ml of Naphtha in the jar.
#Next place the jar in a heat bath with a sieve in the pan, this stops it bubbling too hard. The lid should be just resting on the jar to prevent fumes from escaping. '''DO NOT''' screw the lid tight! The expanding fumes will create enough pressure to explode the jar. Heat/flames and lighter fluid = '''DISASTER'''!
#Heat the pan until boiling for a few minutes to heat the naphtha in the jar.
#Turn off the heat and take out the jar (use gloves, it will be hot!) and pour the naphtha into the shot glass with the product.
#Everything will dissolve into the naphtha and you will see the impurities start to separate and fall to the bottom. You can rest the glass in the heat bath to help if needed.
#After a few minutes you will need to decant the saturated naphtha into the other glass/dish leaving the impurities behind. Use an eyedropper if you have one or carefully pour it off. You can leave the impurities for the next time you Re-X or add a little more naphtha and try to get a little more.
edit: Remember that every little drop or smear of naphtha is loaded with product...so a good wash around with fresh naphtha will get it all.
#Now take your glass and put a tin foil lid on it to prevent dust and water vapour from getting in and put it in the fridge for 1 hour to cool.
edit: A shallow glass dish maybe better for scraping later.
#Put it in the freezer overnight.
#In the morning after 12/18 hours of Re-crystallising you will need to pour off the remaining naphtha and dry with a fan as before. It will take a lot of drying as the crystal layer will be deep and needs to be completely free of solvent.
#Scrape out and marvel at your handy work...Around 1g of fluffy product from 50g of bark.

<gallery>
File:Cyb-Tekpic1-EQUIPMENT.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_One:_Weighing_the_Bark Step One]: Weighing the Bark</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic2-ROOTBARK.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Two:_Material_in_Container Step Two]: Material in Container</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic3-BARKINJAR.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Three:_Acidifying Step Three]: Acidifying</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic4-JARINPAN.jpg|<center>Step Three (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic5-SALTWEIGHT.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Four:_Salting Step Four]: Salting</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic6-SALTINWATER.jpg|<center>Step Four (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic7-LYEWEIGHT.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Five:_Basifying Step Five]: Basifying</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic8-SHAKENUPBLACK.jpg|<center>Step Five (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic9-JARINHEATBATH.jpg|<center>Step Five (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic10-NAPTHAMEASURE.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Six:_Adding_the_Non-Polar_Solvent Step Six]: Adding the Non-Polar Solvent</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic11-NAPTHASPLIT.jpg|<center>Step Six (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic12-NAPTHASPLITCLOSEUP.jpg|<center>Step Six (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic13-NAPTHAOUT.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Seven:_Pulling Step Seven]: Pulling</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic14-FIRSTPULL.jpg|<center>Step Seven (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic15-CLINGFILMEDTRAY.jpg|<center>Step Seven (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic16-INFREEZER-1.jpg|<center>Step Seven (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic17-INFREEZER-2.jpg|<center>Step Seven (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic18-POSTFREEZE-1.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Eight:_After_the_Freeze Step Eight]: After the Freeze</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic19-POSTFREEZE-2.jpg|<center>Step Eight (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic20-POSTFREEZE-3.jpg|<center>Step Eight (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic21-FANDRY.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Nine:_Drying Step Nine]: Drying</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic22-SCRAPING-1.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Ten:_Scraping Step Ten]: Scraping</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic23-SCRAPING-2.jpg|<center>Step Ten (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic24-SCRAPING-3.jpg|<center>Step Ten (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic25-FINALWEIGHT-PRE-X.jpg|<center>Step Ten (Cont.)</center>
</gallery>

==Additional Notes==
*Although I have included an acidic bath to begin with, this can be omitted and the extractor can go STB (Straight-To-Base) if they wish: Just start with the salt ([http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Four:_Salting Step Four]) and make sure you end up with 700ml of liquid.
*You can also omit the heat baths if you want to do the Tek 'cold' although the yield maybe affected.
*This Tek should produce around 2% Yield depending on the bark used, that's 1g of product per 50g of bark which equated to around 30-40 hits; enough for any beginner!
*New research by users indicate that salt can be used (with good results) with Acacia Extractions inc. A/B (Just add salt at the Basification Stage ([http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Five:_Basifying Step Five]))

Info on salting: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32567 Salt]

Methods of administration: [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine The Machine] - [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=35040 Cyb's Machine].

== Footnotes ==
[1] See responses to the original thread where yields of up to 1g of DMT have been reported from 50g of MHRB. 
[2] As of 04/12/12: This information is subject to change.

== Reference ==
<references/>

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Straight To Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]

Cybs' Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek

2012-12-05T12:26:33Z

Non Dua Natura: /* Additional Notes */ Added internal links.

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek<ref>Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek - 5th September 2012[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=381707#post381707]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}

==Introduction==
This a hybridized ATB tek developed by Cyb for the extraction of DMT from Mimosa Hostilis root bark; this is a very straightforward, and apparently high-yielding[1] method put together with the newbie kitchen alchemist in mind and using easy-to-source solvents, bases and equipment. The tek may be suitable for extracting from other organic materials, such as acacia although there is no information on yields or success rates so far.[2]

Original Post: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=381707#post381707 Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek]

Download: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=13453 PDF]
==Required Equipment==
[[File:Cyb-Tekpic1-EQUIPMENT.jpg|right|thumb|Required Equipment]]

* Mimosa Hostilis Bark (Powdered)
* 1-Litre Mixing Bottle or Jar (With Lid)
* De-ionised (or Distilled) Water
* Lye (Caustic Soda)
* White (Distilled) Vinegar
* Naphtha (Lighter Fluid, e.g. Swan, Ronsonol, Newport)
* Spare Jam Jar (Storage of used naptha)
* Funnel
* Glass Measuring Jug
* Turkey Baster
* Scales (Milligram)
* Glass Roasting Dish (x3) (Not Shown)
* Food Wrap/Cling-film (Not Shown)

==Step-by-Step Guide==
===Step One: Weighing the Bark===

We are using 50g (approx) in this Tek.

Use powdered bark; if you have shredded bark, put it in a glass blender and whiz it up good until powdered. Some fibrous material will remain...that’s fine.
===Step Two: Material in Container===

Put the Bark in the mixing bottle/jar, using the funnel if necessary.
===Step Three: Acidifying===

#Put 200ml De-ionised water in a pan, add 60ml vinegar and bring to ''just'' boiling.
#Pour the acidic solution into the mixing bottle.
#Put some tap water in a pan and bring to the boil, then turn off the heat.
#Shake the bottle and place in the heat bath.
#Shake/mix occasionally and re-heat if necessary.
#Leave to soak for '''at least''' one hour.
===Step Four: Salting===

#Weigh out 30g of salt; preferably a good quality salt, although any table salt will do.
#Put 100ml of de-ionised water in a pan and heat to nearly boiling.
#Add the 30g salt and stir until dissolved.
#Pour the saturated saline solution into the bottle.
===Step Five: Basifying===

'''This step uses lye/caustic soda; the author offers the following caveat regarding its usage and its neutralization in the event of spillage''': ''Caution: Lye is extremely dangerous...do not get any on your skin or eyes. Use gloves if you have them. Vinegar will neutralise any spills. Never pour Hot water on top of lye...it will react violently and splash.'' 

#Weigh out 50g of Sodium Hydroxide (Lye/Caustic Soda).
#Put 200ml of '''cold''' de-ionised water into the measuring jug.
#Slowly add the 50g of lye to the water and stir using a metal spoon until it is all dissolved.
#Carefully add the caustic solution to the bottle.
#Top up with 140ml de-ionised water to the bottle; the overall volume should be around 700ml altogether now.
#Shake the mixture up; it should go very dark...almost black.
#Put the bottle in a heat bath as before and soak for at least 1 hour, re-heating the pan if necessary.
#Shake the mixture occasionally to prevent settling.
===Step Six: Adding the Non-Polar Solvent===

#Measure out 50ml of naphtha (lighter fluid) and pour into the bottle.
#Lightly shake and roll the mixture in a 'figure of 8' fashion for 20-30 seconds.
#Unscrew the cap momentarily to release any pressure build-up then tighten again.
#Place back in a heat bath. (Heated pulls draw more product)
#Leave for a while until the naphtha separates again.
#Repeat this '''four times''' (shake/separate). This should take around 45 mins.
===Step Seven: Pulling===

#After the 4 x naphtha mixing, carefully suck out all the naphtha from the top layer with the turkey baster and squirt it into a glass roasting dish. This takes a bit of patience and skill. Be very careful not to disturb the basified mix (black layer) - Do not suck up any of the basified mix. If you can’t get the last bit, you can suck up the naphtha and a bit of the basified mix and place them in a drinks glass and wait a short time to separate again. It will be easier to see the layering and retrieve the last bit. Use an eyedropper if necessary.
#The first pulls may be heavily saturated and turn milky when it hits the dish: This is a good sign. Later pulls may look clear or yellowy, but this is fine.
#Tightly pull food wrap around the dish to form a sealed lid, airtight and watertight.
#Put the dish straight in the freezer.
#Repeat Steps Six and Seven '''four more times''', giving '''five pulls''' in total.
#Place the 'pulls’ in the freezer for 12-18 hours, ideally overnight. Do not disturb them, it’s tempting to look but try not to.
edit: You can keep pulling until no more product comes out...then you can consider the bark depleted.

===Step Eight: After the Freeze===

#After 12/18 hours in the freezer, take out the dishes one by one and suck out or pour out the naphtha into your storage jam jar, or you can reuse for the next pull.
#Place the dishes upside down on a cloth for a few minutes to drain off excess naphtha.

''Speed is critical here''; you want to do this as fast as possible because the product will want to re-dissolve into any remaining naphtha at room temperature. Try not to get any water droplets in the dishes.
===Step Nine: Drying===

Straight away, place the dishes against a wall and blow a cold fan over them for at least 20 minutes.

You want to make sure '''ALL''' the naphtha (and any water drops) has evaporated. No smell of solvent should remain.
===Step Ten: Scraping===

It may look like "Snow Globe" crystals '''or''' (as shown) a layer of dried gooey oil with white dots (crystals) growing on top.

*Use a blade to scrape all the crystals/oil together.

*Scrape all the dishes; you may have some in the freezer for the next day, just scrape them after the drying.

*Place on a piece of paper for further drying.

At this point, after five pulls you have around 1g of product that is perfectly useable. Some even prefer the yellow (full spectrum) stuff, but if you want to purify further to get whiter, fluffier crystal...here’s how.
===Step Eleven: Re-X (The Extra Mile)===
====Required Equipment====
*A small glass or shot glass for separation.
*A small glass or small dish for crystallization in the freezer.
*A jam jar for heating the naphtha.

====Method====

#Place your product in the small shot glass.
#Put around 40/50ml of Naphtha in the jar.
#Next place the jar in a heat bath with a sieve in the pan, this stops it bubbling too hard. The lid should be just resting on the jar to prevent fumes from escaping. '''DO NOT''' screw the lid tight! The expanding fumes will create enough pressure to explode the jar. Heat/flames and lighter fluid = '''DISASTER'''!
#Heat the pan until boiling for a few minutes to heat the naphtha in the jar.
#Turn off the heat and take out the jar (use gloves, it will be hot!) and pour the naphtha into the shot glass with the product.
#Everything will dissolve into the naphtha and you will see the impurities start to separate and fall to the bottom. You can rest the glass in the heat bath to help if needed.
#After a few minutes you will need to decant the saturated naphtha into the other glass/dish leaving the impurities behind. Use an eyedropper if you have one or carefully pour it off. You can leave the impurities for the next time you Re-X or add a little more naphtha and try to get a little more.
edit: Remember that every little drop or smear of naphtha is loaded with product...so a good wash around with fresh naphtha will get it all.
#Now take your glass and put a tin foil lid on it to prevent dust and water vapour from getting in and put it in the fridge for 1 hour to cool.
edit: A shallow glass dish maybe better for scraping later.
#Put it in the freezer overnight.
#In the morning after 12/18 hours of Re-crystallising you will need to pour off the remaining naphtha and dry with a fan as before. It will take a lot of drying as the crystal layer will be deep and needs to be completely free of solvent.
#Scrape out and marvel at your handy work...Around 1g of fluffy product from 50g of bark.

<gallery>
File:Cyb-Tekpic1-EQUIPMENT.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_One:_Weighing_the_Bark Step One]: Weighing the Bark</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic2-ROOTBARK.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Two:_Material_in_Container Step Two]: Material in Container</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic3-BARKINJAR.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Three:_Acidifying Step Three]: Acidifying</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic4-JARINPAN.jpg|<center>Step Three (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic5-SALTWEIGHT.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Four:_Salting Step Four]: Salting</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic6-SALTINWATER.jpg|<center>Step Four (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic7-LYEWEIGHT.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Five:_Basifying Step Five]: Basifying</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic8-SHAKENUPBLACK.jpg|<center>Step Five (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic9-JARINHEATBATH.jpg|<center>Step Five (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic10-NAPTHAMEASURE.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Six:_Adding_the_Non-Polar_Solvent Step Six]: Adding the Non-Polar Solvent</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic11-NAPTHASPLIT.jpg|<center>Step Six (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic12-NAPTHASPLITCLOSEUP.jpg|<center>Step Six (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic13-NAPTHAOUT.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Seven:_Pulling Step Seven]: Pulling</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic14-FIRSTPULL.jpg|<center>Step Seven (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic15-CLINGFILMEDTRAY.jpg|<center>Step Seven (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic16-INFREEZER-1.jpg|<center>Step Seven (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic17-INFREEZER-2.jpg|<center>Step Seven (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic18-POSTFREEZE-1.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Eight:_After_the_Freeze Step Eight]: After the Freeze</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic19-POSTFREEZE-2.jpg|<center>Step Eight (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic20-POSTFREEZE-3.jpg|<center>Step Eight (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic21-FANDRY.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Nine:_Drying Step Nine]: Drying</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic22-SCRAPING-1.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Ten:_Scraping Step Ten]: Scraping</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic23-SCRAPING-2.jpg|<center>Step Ten (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic24-SCRAPING-3.jpg|<center>Step Ten (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic25-FINALWEIGHT-PRE-X.jpg|<center>Step Ten (Cont.)</center>
</gallery>

==Additional Notes==
*Although I have included an acidic bath to begin with, this can be omitted and the extractor can go STB (Straight-To-Base) if they wish: Just start with the salt ([http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Four:_Salting Step Four]) and make sure you end up with 700ml of liquid.
*You can also omit the heat baths if you want to do the Tek 'cold' although the yield maybe affected.
*This Tek should produce around 2% Yield depending on the bark used, that's 1g of product per 50g of bark which equated to around 30-40 hits; enough for any beginner!
*New research by users indicate that salt can be used (with good results) with Acacia Extractions inc. A/B (Just add salt at the Basification Stage ([http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Five:_Basifying Step Five]))

Info on salting: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32567 Salt]

Methods of administration: [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine The Machine] - [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=35040 Cyb's Machine].

== Footnotes ==
[1] See responses to the original thread where yields of up to 1g of DMT have been reported from 50g of MHRB. 
[2] As of 04/12/12: This information is subject to change.

== Reference ==
<references/>

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Straight To Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]

Cybs' Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek

2012-12-05T12:24:56Z

Non Dua Natura: /* Additional Notes */ Added links to "The Machine" and Cyb's variation thereof.

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek<ref>Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek - 5th September 2012[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=381707#post381707]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}

==Introduction==
This a hybridized ATB tek developed by Cyb for the extraction of DMT from Mimosa Hostilis root bark; this is a very straightforward, and apparently high-yielding[1] method put together with the newbie kitchen alchemist in mind and using easy-to-source solvents, bases and equipment. The tek may be suitable for extracting from other organic materials, such as acacia although there is no information on yields or success rates so far.[2]

Original Post: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=381707#post381707 Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek]

Download: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=13453 PDF]
==Required Equipment==
[[File:Cyb-Tekpic1-EQUIPMENT.jpg|right|thumb|Required Equipment]]

* Mimosa Hostilis Bark (Powdered)
* 1-Litre Mixing Bottle or Jar (With Lid)
* De-ionised (or Distilled) Water
* Lye (Caustic Soda)
* White (Distilled) Vinegar
* Naphtha (Lighter Fluid, e.g. Swan, Ronsonol, Newport)
* Spare Jam Jar (Storage of used naptha)
* Funnel
* Glass Measuring Jug
* Turkey Baster
* Scales (Milligram)
* Glass Roasting Dish (x3) (Not Shown)
* Food Wrap/Cling-film (Not Shown)

==Step-by-Step Guide==
===Step One: Weighing the Bark===

We are using 50g (approx) in this Tek.

Use powdered bark; if you have shredded bark, put it in a glass blender and whiz it up good until powdered. Some fibrous material will remain...that’s fine.
===Step Two: Material in Container===

Put the Bark in the mixing bottle/jar, using the funnel if necessary.
===Step Three: Acidifying===

#Put 200ml De-ionised water in a pan, add 60ml vinegar and bring to ''just'' boiling.
#Pour the acidic solution into the mixing bottle.
#Put some tap water in a pan and bring to the boil, then turn off the heat.
#Shake the bottle and place in the heat bath.
#Shake/mix occasionally and re-heat if necessary.
#Leave to soak for '''at least''' one hour.
===Step Four: Salting===

#Weigh out 30g of salt; preferably a good quality salt, although any table salt will do.
#Put 100ml of de-ionised water in a pan and heat to nearly boiling.
#Add the 30g salt and stir until dissolved.
#Pour the saturated saline solution into the bottle.
===Step Five: Basifying===

'''This step uses lye/caustic soda; the author offers the following caveat regarding its usage and its neutralization in the event of spillage''': ''Caution: Lye is extremely dangerous...do not get any on your skin or eyes. Use gloves if you have them. Vinegar will neutralise any spills. Never pour Hot water on top of lye...it will react violently and splash.'' 

#Weigh out 50g of Sodium Hydroxide (Lye/Caustic Soda).
#Put 200ml of '''cold''' de-ionised water into the measuring jug.
#Slowly add the 50g of lye to the water and stir using a metal spoon until it is all dissolved.
#Carefully add the caustic solution to the bottle.
#Top up with 140ml de-ionised water to the bottle; the overall volume should be around 700ml altogether now.
#Shake the mixture up; it should go very dark...almost black.
#Put the bottle in a heat bath as before and soak for at least 1 hour, re-heating the pan if necessary.
#Shake the mixture occasionally to prevent settling.
===Step Six: Adding the Non-Polar Solvent===

#Measure out 50ml of naphtha (lighter fluid) and pour into the bottle.
#Lightly shake and roll the mixture in a 'figure of 8' fashion for 20-30 seconds.
#Unscrew the cap momentarily to release any pressure build-up then tighten again.
#Place back in a heat bath. (Heated pulls draw more product)
#Leave for a while until the naphtha separates again.
#Repeat this '''four times''' (shake/separate). This should take around 45 mins.
===Step Seven: Pulling===

#After the 4 x naphtha mixing, carefully suck out all the naphtha from the top layer with the turkey baster and squirt it into a glass roasting dish. This takes a bit of patience and skill. Be very careful not to disturb the basified mix (black layer) - Do not suck up any of the basified mix. If you can’t get the last bit, you can suck up the naphtha and a bit of the basified mix and place them in a drinks glass and wait a short time to separate again. It will be easier to see the layering and retrieve the last bit. Use an eyedropper if necessary.
#The first pulls may be heavily saturated and turn milky when it hits the dish: This is a good sign. Later pulls may look clear or yellowy, but this is fine.
#Tightly pull food wrap around the dish to form a sealed lid, airtight and watertight.
#Put the dish straight in the freezer.
#Repeat Steps Six and Seven '''four more times''', giving '''five pulls''' in total.
#Place the 'pulls’ in the freezer for 12-18 hours, ideally overnight. Do not disturb them, it’s tempting to look but try not to.
edit: You can keep pulling until no more product comes out...then you can consider the bark depleted.

===Step Eight: After the Freeze===

#After 12/18 hours in the freezer, take out the dishes one by one and suck out or pour out the naphtha into your storage jam jar, or you can reuse for the next pull.
#Place the dishes upside down on a cloth for a few minutes to drain off excess naphtha.

''Speed is critical here''; you want to do this as fast as possible because the product will want to re-dissolve into any remaining naphtha at room temperature. Try not to get any water droplets in the dishes.
===Step Nine: Drying===

Straight away, place the dishes against a wall and blow a cold fan over them for at least 20 minutes.

You want to make sure '''ALL''' the naphtha (and any water drops) has evaporated. No smell of solvent should remain.
===Step Ten: Scraping===

It may look like "Snow Globe" crystals '''or''' (as shown) a layer of dried gooey oil with white dots (crystals) growing on top.

*Use a blade to scrape all the crystals/oil together.

*Scrape all the dishes; you may have some in the freezer for the next day, just scrape them after the drying.

*Place on a piece of paper for further drying.

At this point, after five pulls you have around 1g of product that is perfectly useable. Some even prefer the yellow (full spectrum) stuff, but if you want to purify further to get whiter, fluffier crystal...here’s how.
===Step Eleven: Re-X (The Extra Mile)===
====Required Equipment====
*A small glass or shot glass for separation.
*A small glass or small dish for crystallization in the freezer.
*A jam jar for heating the naphtha.

====Method====

#Place your product in the small shot glass.
#Put around 40/50ml of Naphtha in the jar.
#Next place the jar in a heat bath with a sieve in the pan, this stops it bubbling too hard. The lid should be just resting on the jar to prevent fumes from escaping. '''DO NOT''' screw the lid tight! The expanding fumes will create enough pressure to explode the jar. Heat/flames and lighter fluid = '''DISASTER'''!
#Heat the pan until boiling for a few minutes to heat the naphtha in the jar.
#Turn off the heat and take out the jar (use gloves, it will be hot!) and pour the naphtha into the shot glass with the product.
#Everything will dissolve into the naphtha and you will see the impurities start to separate and fall to the bottom. You can rest the glass in the heat bath to help if needed.
#After a few minutes you will need to decant the saturated naphtha into the other glass/dish leaving the impurities behind. Use an eyedropper if you have one or carefully pour it off. You can leave the impurities for the next time you Re-X or add a little more naphtha and try to get a little more.
edit: Remember that every little drop or smear of naphtha is loaded with product...so a good wash around with fresh naphtha will get it all.
#Now take your glass and put a tin foil lid on it to prevent dust and water vapour from getting in and put it in the fridge for 1 hour to cool.
edit: A shallow glass dish maybe better for scraping later.
#Put it in the freezer overnight.
#In the morning after 12/18 hours of Re-crystallising you will need to pour off the remaining naphtha and dry with a fan as before. It will take a lot of drying as the crystal layer will be deep and needs to be completely free of solvent.
#Scrape out and marvel at your handy work...Around 1g of fluffy product from 50g of bark.

<gallery>
File:Cyb-Tekpic1-EQUIPMENT.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_One:_Weighing_the_Bark Step One]: Weighing the Bark</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic2-ROOTBARK.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Two:_Material_in_Container Step Two]: Material in Container</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic3-BARKINJAR.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Three:_Acidifying Step Three]: Acidifying</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic4-JARINPAN.jpg|<center>Step Three (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic5-SALTWEIGHT.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Four:_Salting Step Four]: Salting</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic6-SALTINWATER.jpg|<center>Step Four (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic7-LYEWEIGHT.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Five:_Basifying Step Five]: Basifying</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic8-SHAKENUPBLACK.jpg|<center>Step Five (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic9-JARINHEATBATH.jpg|<center>Step Five (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic10-NAPTHAMEASURE.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Six:_Adding_the_Non-Polar_Solvent Step Six]: Adding the Non-Polar Solvent</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic11-NAPTHASPLIT.jpg|<center>Step Six (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic12-NAPTHASPLITCLOSEUP.jpg|<center>Step Six (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic13-NAPTHAOUT.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Seven:_Pulling Step Seven]: Pulling</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic14-FIRSTPULL.jpg|<center>Step Seven (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic15-CLINGFILMEDTRAY.jpg|<center>Step Seven (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic16-INFREEZER-1.jpg|<center>Step Seven (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic17-INFREEZER-2.jpg|<center>Step Seven (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic18-POSTFREEZE-1.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Eight:_After_the_Freeze Step Eight]: After the Freeze</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic19-POSTFREEZE-2.jpg|<center>Step Eight (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic20-POSTFREEZE-3.jpg|<center>Step Eight (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic21-FANDRY.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Nine:_Drying Step Nine]: Drying</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic22-SCRAPING-1.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Ten:_Scraping Step Ten]: Scraping</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic23-SCRAPING-2.jpg|<center>Step Ten (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic24-SCRAPING-3.jpg|<center>Step Ten (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic25-FINALWEIGHT-PRE-X.jpg|<center>Step Ten (Cont.)</center>
</gallery>

==Additional Notes==
*Although I have included an acidic bath to begin with, this can be omitted and the extractor can go STB (Straight-To-Base) if they wish: Just start with the salt (Step Four) and make sure you end up with 700ml of liquid.
*You can also omit the heat baths if you want to do the Tek 'cold' although the yield maybe affected.
*This Tek should produce around 2% Yield depending on the bark used, that's 1g of product per 50g of bark which equated to around 30-40 hits; enough for any beginner!
*New research by users indicate that salt can be used (with good results) with Acacia Extractions inc. A/B (Just add salt at the Basification Stage (Step Five))

Info on salting: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32567 Salt]

Methods of administration: [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/The_Machine The Machine] - [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=35040 Cyb's Machine].

== Footnotes ==
[1] See responses to the original thread where yields of up to 1g of DMT have been reported from 50g of MHRB. 
[2] As of 04/12/12: This information is subject to change.

== Reference ==
<references/>

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Straight To Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]

Cybs' Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek

2012-12-05T02:24:31Z

Non Dua Natura: Linked to article from image gallery.

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek<ref>Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek - 5th September 2012[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=381707#post381707]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}

==Introduction==
This a hybridized ATB tek developed by Cyb for the extraction of DMT from Mimosa Hostilis root bark; this is a very straightforward, and apparently high-yielding[1] method put together with the newbie kitchen alchemist in mind and using easy-to-source solvents, bases and equipment. The tek may be suitable for extracting from other organic materials, such as acacia although there is no information on yields or success rates so far.[2]

Original Post: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=381707#post381707 Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek]

Download: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=13453 PDF]
==Required Equipment==
[[File:Cyb-Tekpic1-EQUIPMENT.jpg|right|thumb|Required Equipment]]

* Mimosa Hostilis Bark (Powdered)
* 1-Litre Mixing Bottle or Jar (With Lid)
* De-ionised (or Distilled) Water
* Lye (Caustic Soda)
* White (Distilled) Vinegar
* Naphtha (Lighter Fluid, e.g. Swan, Ronsonol, Newport)
* Spare Jam Jar (Storage of used naptha)
* Funnel
* Glass Measuring Jug
* Turkey Baster
* Scales (Milligram)
* Glass Roasting Dish (x3) (Not Shown)
* Food Wrap/Cling-film (Not Shown)

==Step-by-Step Guide==
===Step One: Weighing the Bark===

We are using 50g (approx) in this Tek.

Use powdered bark; if you have shredded bark, put it in a glass blender and whiz it up good until powdered. Some fibrous material will remain...that’s fine.
===Step Two: Material in Container===

Put the Bark in the mixing bottle/jar, using the funnel if necessary.
===Step Three: Acidifying===

#Put 200ml De-ionised water in a pan, add 60ml vinegar and bring to ''just'' boiling.
#Pour the acidic solution into the mixing bottle.
#Put some tap water in a pan and bring to the boil, then turn off the heat.
#Shake the bottle and place in the heat bath.
#Shake/mix occasionally and re-heat if necessary.
#Leave to soak for '''at least''' one hour.
===Step Four: Salting===

#Weigh out 30g of salt; preferably a good quality salt, although any table salt will do.
#Put 100ml of de-ionised water in a pan and heat to nearly boiling.
#Add the 30g salt and stir until dissolved.
#Pour the saturated saline solution into the bottle.
===Step Five: Basifying===

'''This step uses lye/caustic soda; the author offers the following caveat regarding its usage and its neutralization in the event of spillage''': ''Caution: Lye is extremely dangerous...do not get any on your skin or eyes. Use gloves if you have them. Vinegar will neutralise any spills. Never pour Hot water on top of lye...it will react violently and splash.'' 

#Weigh out 50g of Sodium Hydroxide (Lye/Caustic Soda).
#Put 200ml of '''cold''' de-ionised water into the measuring jug.
#Slowly add the 50g of lye to the water and stir using a metal spoon until it is all dissolved.
#Carefully add the caustic solution to the bottle.
#Top up with 140ml de-ionised water to the bottle; the overall volume should be around 700ml altogether now.
#Shake the mixture up; it should go very dark...almost black.
#Put the bottle in a heat bath as before and soak for at least 1 hour, re-heating the pan if necessary.
#Shake the mixture occasionally to prevent settling.
===Step Six: Adding the Non-Polar Solvent===

#Measure out 50ml of naphtha (lighter fluid) and pour into the bottle.
#Lightly shake and roll the mixture in a 'figure of 8' fashion for 20-30 seconds.
#Unscrew the cap momentarily to release any pressure build-up then tighten again.
#Place back in a heat bath. (Heated pulls draw more product)
#Leave for a while until the naphtha separates again.
#Repeat this '''four times''' (shake/separate). This should take around 45 mins.
===Step Seven: Pulling===

#After the 4 x naphtha mixing, carefully suck out all the naphtha from the top layer with the turkey baster and squirt it into a glass roasting dish. This takes a bit of patience and skill. Be very careful not to disturb the basified mix (black layer) - Do not suck up any of the basified mix. If you can’t get the last bit, you can suck up the naphtha and a bit of the basified mix and place them in a drinks glass and wait a short time to separate again. It will be easier to see the layering and retrieve the last bit. Use an eyedropper if necessary.
#The first pulls may be heavily saturated and turn milky when it hits the dish: This is a good sign. Later pulls may look clear or yellowy, but this is fine.
#Tightly pull food wrap around the dish to form a sealed lid, airtight and watertight.
#Put the dish straight in the freezer.
#Repeat Steps Six and Seven '''four more times''', giving '''five pulls''' in total.
#Place the 'pulls’ in the freezer for 12-18 hours, ideally overnight. Do not disturb them, it’s tempting to look but try not to.
===Step Eight: After the Freeze===

#After 12/18 hours in the freezer, take out the dishes one by one and suck out or pour out the naphtha into your storage jam jar, or you can reuse for the next pull.
#Place the dishes upside down on a cloth for a few minutes to drain off excess naphtha.

''Speed is critical here''; you want to do this as fast as possible because the product will want to re-dissolve into any remaining naphtha at room temperature. Try not to get any water droplets in the dishes.
===Step Nine: Drying===

Straight away, place the dishes against a wall and blow a cold fan over them for at least 20 minutes.

You want to make sure '''ALL''' the naphtha (and any water drops) has evaporated. No smell of solvent should remain.
===Step Ten: Scraping===

It may look like "Snow Globe" crystals '''or''' (as shown) a layer of dried gooey oil with white dots (crystals) growing on top.

*Use a blade to scrape all the crystals/oil together.

*Scrape all the dishes; you may have some in the freezer for the next day, just scrape them after the drying.

*Place on a piece of paper for further drying.

At this point, after five pulls you have around 1g of product that is perfectly useable. Some even prefer the yellow (full spectrum) stuff, but if you want to purify further to get whiter, fluffier crystal...here’s how.
===Step Eleven: Re-X (The Extra Mile)===
====Required Equipment====
*A small glass or shot glass for separation.
*A small glass or small dish for crystallization in the freezer.
*A jam jar for heating the naphtha.

====Method====

#Place your product in the small shot glass.
#Put around 40/50ml of Naphtha in the jar.
#Next place the jar in a heat bath with a sieve in the pan, this stops it bubbling too hard. The lid should be just resting on the jar to prevent fumes from escaping. '''DO NOT''' screw the lid tight! The expanding fumes will create enough pressure to explode the jar. Heat and lighter fluid = '''DISASTER'''!
#Heat the pan until boiling for a few minutes to heat the naphtha in the jar.
#Turn off the heat and take out the jar (use gloves, it will be hot!) and pour the naphtha into the shot glass with the product.
#Everything will dissolve into the naphtha and you will see the impurities start to separate and fall to the bottom. You can rest the glass in the heat bath to help if needed.
#After a few minutes you will need to decant the saturated naphtha into the other glass leaving the impurities behind. Use an eyedropper if you have one or carefully pour it off. You can leave the impurities for the next time you Re-X or add a little more naphtha and try to get a little more.
#Now take your glass and put a tin foil lid on it to prevent dust and water vapour from getting in and put it in the fridge for 1 hour to cool.
#Put it in the freezer overnight.
#In the morning after 12/18 hours of Re-crystallising you will need to pour off the remaining naphtha and dry with a fan as before. It will take a lot of drying as the crystal layer will be deep and needs to be completely free of solvent.
#Scrape out and marvel at your handy work...Around 1g of fluffy product from 50g of bark.

<gallery>
File:Cyb-Tekpic1-EQUIPMENT.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_One:_Weighing_the_Bark Step One]: Weighing the Bark</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic2-ROOTBARK.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Two:_Material_in_Container Step Two]: Material in Container</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic3-BARKINJAR.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Three:_Acidifying Step Three]: Acidifying</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic4-JARINPAN.jpg|<center>Step Three (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic5-SALTWEIGHT.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Four:_Salting Step Four]: Salting</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic6-SALTINWATER.jpg|<center>Step Four (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic7-LYEWEIGHT.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Five:_Basifying Step Five]: Basifying</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic8-SHAKENUPBLACK.jpg|<center>Step Five (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic9-JARINHEATBATH.jpg|<center>Step Five (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic10-NAPTHAMEASURE.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Six:_Adding_the_Non-Polar_Solvent Step Six]: Adding the Non-Polar Solvent</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic11-NAPTHASPLIT.jpg|<center>Step Six (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic12-NAPTHASPLITCLOSEUP.jpg|<center>Step Six (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic13-NAPTHAOUT.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Seven:_Pulling Step Seven]: Pulling</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic14-FIRSTPULL.jpg|<center>Step Seven (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic15-CLINGFILMEDTRAY.jpg|<center>Step Seven (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic16-INFREEZER-1.jpg|<center>Step Seven (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic17-INFREEZER-2.jpg|<center>Step Seven (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic18-POSTFREEZE-1.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Eight:_After_the_Freeze Step Eight]: After the Freeze</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic19-POSTFREEZE-2.jpg|<center>Step Eight (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic20-POSTFREEZE-3.jpg|<center>Step Eight (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic21-FANDRY.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Nine:_Drying Step Nine]: Drying</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic22-SCRAPING-1.jpg|<center>[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Cyb%27s_Hybrid_ATB_%27Salt%27_Tek#Step_Ten:_Scraping Step Ten]: Scraping</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic23-SCRAPING-2.jpg|<center>Step Ten (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic24-SCRAPING-3.jpg|<center>Step Ten (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic25-FINALWEIGHT-PRE-X.jpg|<center>Step Ten (Cont.)</center>
</gallery>

==Additional Notes==
*Although I have included an acidic bath to begin with, this can be omitted and the extractor can go STB (Straight-To-Base) if they wish: Just start with the salt (Step Four) and make sure you end up with 700ml of liquid.
*You can also omit the heat baths if you want to do the Tek 'cold' although the yield maybe affected.
*This Tek should produce around 2% Yield depending on the bark used, that's 1g of product per 50g of bark which equated to around 30-40 hits; enough for any beginner!
*New research by users indicate that salt can be used (with good results) with Acacia Extractions inc. A/B (Just add salt at the Basification Stage (Step Five))

Info on salting: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32567 Salt]

== Footnotes ==
[1] See responses to the original thread where yields of up to 1g of DMT have been reported from 50g of MHRB. 
[2] As of 04/12/12: This information is subject to change.

Cybs' Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek

2012-12-05T02:18:24Z

Non Dua Natura: Added basic gallery - Will edit as I figure out how to refine it a bit.

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek<ref>Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek - 5th September 2012[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=381707#post381707]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}

==Introduction==
This a hybridized ATB tek developed by Cyb for the extraction of DMT from Mimosa Hostilis root bark; this is a very straightforward, and apparently high-yielding[1] method put together with the newbie kitchen alchemist in mind and using easy-to-source solvents, bases and equipment. The tek may be suitable for extracting from other organic materials, such as acacia although there is no information on yields or success rates so far.[2]

Original Post: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=381707#post381707 Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek]

Download: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=13453 PDF]
==Required Equipment==
[[File:Cyb-Tekpic1-EQUIPMENT.jpg|right|thumb|Required Equipment]]

* Mimosa Hostilis Bark (Powdered)
* 1-Litre Mixing Bottle or Jar (With Lid)
* De-ionised (or Distilled) Water
* Lye (Caustic Soda)
* White (Distilled) Vinegar
* Naphtha (Lighter Fluid, e.g. Swan, Ronsonol, Newport)
* Spare Jam Jar (Storage of used naptha)
* Funnel
* Glass Measuring Jug
* Turkey Baster
* Scales (Milligram)
* Glass Roasting Dish (x3) (Not Shown)
* Food Wrap/Cling-film (Not Shown)

==Step-by-Step Guide==
===Step One: Weighing the Bark===

We are using 50g (approx) in this Tek.

Use powdered bark; if you have shredded bark, put it in a glass blender and whiz it up good until powdered. Some fibrous material will remain...that’s fine.
===Step Two: Material in Container===

Put the Bark in the mixing bottle/jar, using the funnel if necessary.
===Step Three: Acidifying===

#Put 200ml De-ionised water in a pan, add 60ml vinegar and bring to ''just'' boiling.
#Pour the acidic solution into the mixing bottle.
#Put some tap water in a pan and bring to the boil, then turn off the heat.
#Shake the bottle and place in the heat bath.
#Shake/mix occasionally and re-heat if necessary.
#Leave to soak for '''at least''' one hour.
===Step Four: Salting===

#Weigh out 30g of salt; preferably a good quality salt, although any table salt will do.
#Put 100ml of de-ionised water in a pan and heat to nearly boiling.
#Add the 30g salt and stir until dissolved.
#Pour the saturated saline solution into the bottle.
===Step Five: Basifying===

'''This step uses lye/caustic soda; the author offers the following caveat regarding its usage and its neutralization in the event of spillage''': ''Caution: Lye is extremely dangerous...do not get any on your skin or eyes. Use gloves if you have them. Vinegar will neutralise any spills. Never pour Hot water on top of lye...it will react violently and splash.'' 

#Weigh out 50g of Sodium Hydroxide (Lye/Caustic Soda).
#Put 200ml of '''cold''' de-ionised water into the measuring jug.
#Slowly add the 50g of lye to the water and stir using a metal spoon until it is all dissolved.
#Carefully add the caustic solution to the bottle.
#Top up with 140ml de-ionised water to the bottle; the overall volume should be around 700ml altogether now.
#Shake the mixture up; it should go very dark...almost black.
#Put the bottle in a heat bath as before and soak for at least 1 hour, re-heating the pan if necessary.
#Shake the mixture occasionally to prevent settling.
===Step Six: Adding the Non-Polar Solvent===

#Measure out 50ml of naphtha (lighter fluid) and pour into the bottle.
#Lightly shake and roll the mixture in a 'figure of 8' fashion for 20-30 seconds.
#Unscrew the cap momentarily to release any pressure build-up then tighten again.
#Place back in a heat bath. (Heated pulls draw more product)
#Leave for a while until the naphtha separates again.
#Repeat this '''four times''' (shake/separate). This should take around 45 mins.
===Step Seven: Pulling===

#After the 4 x naphtha mixing, carefully suck out all the naphtha from the top layer with the turkey baster and squirt it into a glass roasting dish. This takes a bit of patience and skill. Be very careful not to disturb the basified mix (black layer) - Do not suck up any of the basified mix. If you can’t get the last bit, you can suck up the naphtha and a bit of the basified mix and place them in a drinks glass and wait a short time to separate again. It will be easier to see the layering and retrieve the last bit. Use an eyedropper if necessary.
#The first pulls may be heavily saturated and turn milky when it hits the dish: This is a good sign. Later pulls may look clear or yellowy, but this is fine.
#Tightly pull food wrap around the dish to form a sealed lid, airtight and watertight.
#Put the dish straight in the freezer.
#Repeat Steps Six and Seven '''four more times''', giving '''five pulls''' in total.
#Place the 'pulls’ in the freezer for 12-18 hours, ideally overnight. Do not disturb them, it’s tempting to look but try not to.
===Step Eight: After the Freeze===

#After 12/18 hours in the freezer, take out the dishes one by one and suck out or pour out the naphtha into your storage jam jar, or you can reuse for the next pull.
#Place the dishes upside down on a cloth for a few minutes to drain off excess naphtha.

''Speed is critical here''; you want to do this as fast as possible because the product will want to re-dissolve into any remaining naphtha at room temperature. Try not to get any water droplets in the dishes.
===Step Nine: Drying===

Straight away, place the dishes against a wall and blow a cold fan over them for at least 20 minutes.

You want to make sure '''ALL''' the naphtha (and any water drops) has evaporated. No smell of solvent should remain.
===Step Ten: Scraping===

It may look like "Snow Globe" crystals '''or''' (as shown) a layer of dried gooey oil with white dots (crystals) growing on top.

*Use a blade to scrape all the crystals/oil together.

*Scrape all the dishes; you may have some in the freezer for the next day, just scrape them after the drying.

*Place on a piece of paper for further drying.

At this point, after five pulls you have around 1g of product that is perfectly useable. Some even prefer the yellow (full spectrum) stuff, but if you want to purify further to get whiter, fluffier crystal...here’s how.
===Step Eleven: Re-X (The Extra Mile)===
====Required Equipment====
*A small glass or shot glass for separation.
*A small glass or small dish for crystallization in the freezer.
*A jam jar for heating the naphtha.

====Method====

#Place your product in the small shot glass.
#Put around 40/50ml of Naphtha in the jar.
#Next place the jar in a heat bath with a sieve in the pan, this stops it bubbling too hard. The lid should be just resting on the jar to prevent fumes from escaping. '''DO NOT''' screw the lid tight! The expanding fumes will create enough pressure to explode the jar. Heat and lighter fluid = '''DISASTER'''!
#Heat the pan until boiling for a few minutes to heat the naphtha in the jar.
#Turn off the heat and take out the jar (use gloves, it will be hot!) and pour the naphtha into the shot glass with the product.
#Everything will dissolve into the naphtha and you will see the impurities start to separate and fall to the bottom. You can rest the glass in the heat bath to help if needed.
#After a few minutes you will need to decant the saturated naphtha into the other glass leaving the impurities behind. Use an eyedropper if you have one or carefully pour it off. You can leave the impurities for the next time you Re-X or add a little more naphtha and try to get a little more.
#Now take your glass and put a tin foil lid on it to prevent dust and water vapour from getting in and put it in the fridge for 1 hour to cool.
#Put it in the freezer overnight.
#In the morning after 12/18 hours of Re-crystallising you will need to pour off the remaining naphtha and dry with a fan as before. It will take a lot of drying as the crystal layer will be deep and needs to be completely free of solvent.
#Scrape out and marvel at your handy work...Around 1g of fluffy product from 50g of bark.

<gallery>
File:Cyb-Tekpic1-EQUIPMENT.jpg|<center>Step One: Weighing the Bark</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic2-ROOTBARK.jpg|<center>Step Two: Material in Container</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic3-BARKINJAR.jpg|<center>Step Three: Acidifying</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic4-JARINPAN.jpg|<center>Step Three (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic5-SALTWEIGHT.jpg|<center>Step Four: Salting</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic6-SALTINWATER.jpg|<center>Step Four (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic7-LYEWEIGHT.jpg|<center>Step Five: Basifying</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic8-SHAKENUPBLACK.jpg|<center>Step Five (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic9-JARINHEATBATH.jpg|<center>Step Five (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic10-NAPTHAMEASURE.jpg|<center>Step Six: Adding the Non-Polar Solvent</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic11-NAPTHASPLIT.jpg|<center>Step Six (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic12-NAPTHASPLITCLOSEUP.jpg|<center>Step Six (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic13-NAPTHAOUT.jpg|<center>Step Seven: Pulling</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic14-FIRSTPULL.jpg|<center>Step Seven (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic15-CLINGFILMEDTRAY.jpg|<center>Step Seven (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic16-INFREEZER-1.jpg|<center>Step Seven (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic17-INFREEZER-2.jpg|<center>Step Seven (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic18-POSTFREEZE-1.jpg|<center>Step Eight: After the Freeze</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic19-POSTFREEZE-2.jpg|<center>Step Eight (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic20-POSTFREEZE-3.jpg|<center>Step Eight (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic21-FANDRY.jpg|<center>Step Nine: Drying</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic22-SCRAPING-1.jpg|<center>Step Ten: Scraping</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic23-SCRAPING-2.jpg|<center>Step Ten (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic24-SCRAPING-3.jpg|<center>Step Ten (Cont.)</center>
File:Cyb-Tekpic25-FINALWEIGHT-PRE-X.jpg|<center>Step Ten (Cont.)</center>
</gallery>

==Additional Notes==
*Although I have included an acidic bath to begin with, this can be omitted and the extractor can go STB (Straight-To-Base) if they wish: Just start with the salt (Step Four) and make sure you end up with 700ml of liquid.
*You can also omit the heat baths if you want to do the Tek 'cold' although the yield maybe affected.
*This Tek should produce around 2% Yield depending on the bark used, that's 1g of product per 50g of bark which equated to around 30-40 hits; enough for any beginner!
*New research by users indicate that salt can be used (with good results) with Acacia Extractions inc. A/B (Just add salt at the Basification Stage (Step Five))

Info on salting: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32567 Salt]

== Footnotes ==
[1] See responses to the original thread where yields of up to 1g of DMT have been reported from 50g of MHRB. 
[2] As of 04/12/12: This information is subject to change.

Cybs' Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek

2012-12-05T01:46:13Z

Non Dua Natura: Removed images - Reformatting as gallery.

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek<ref>Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek - 5th September 2012[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=381707#post381707]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}

==Introduction==
This a hybridized ATB tek developed by Cyb for the extraction of DMT from Mimosa Hostilis root bark; this is a very straightforward, and apparently high-yielding[1] method put together with the newbie kitchen alchemist in mind and using easy-to-source solvents, bases and equipment. The tek may be suitable for extracting from other organic materials, such as acacia although there is no information on yields or success rates so far.[2]

Original Post: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=381707#post381707 Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek]

Download: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=13453 PDF]
==Required Equipment==
[[File:Cyb-Tekpic1-EQUIPMENT.jpg|right|thumb|Required Equipment]]

* Mimosa Hostilis Bark (Powdered)
* 1-Litre Mixing Bottle or Jar (With Lid)
* De-ionised (or Distilled) Water
* Lye (Caustic Soda)
* White (Distilled) Vinegar
* Naphtha (Lighter Fluid, e.g. Swan, Ronsonol, Newport)
* Spare Jam Jar (Storage of used naptha)
* Funnel
* Glass Measuring Jug
* Turkey Baster
* Scales (Milligram)
* Glass Roasting Dish (x3) (Not Shown)
* Food Wrap/Cling-film (Not Shown)

==Step-by-Step Guide==
===Step One: Weighing the Bark===

We are using 50g (approx) in this Tek.

Use powdered bark; if you have shredded bark, put it in a glass blender and whiz it up good until powdered. Some fibrous material will remain...that’s fine.
===Step Two: Material in Container===

Put the Bark in the mixing bottle/jar, using the funnel if necessary.

===Step Three: Acidifying===

#Put 200ml De-ionised water in a pan, add 60ml vinegar and bring to ''just'' boiling.
#Pour the acidic solution into the mixing bottle.
#Put some tap water in a pan and bring to the boil, then turn off the heat.
#Shake the bottle and place in the heat bath.
#Shake/mix occasionally and re-heat if necessary.
#Leave to soak for '''at least''' one hour.
===Step Four: Salting===

#Weigh out 30g of salt; preferably a good quality salt, although any table salt will do.
#Put 100ml of de-ionised water in a pan and heat to nearly boiling.
#Add the 30g salt and stir until dissolved.
#Pour the saturated saline solution into the bottle.
===Step Five: Basifying===

'''This step uses lye/caustic soda; the author offers the following caveat regarding its usage and its neutralization in the event of spillage''': ''Caution: Lye is extremely dangerous...do not get any on your skin or eyes. Use gloves if you have them. Vinegar will neutralise any spills. Never pour Hot water on top of lye...it will react violently and splash.'' 

#Weigh out 50g of Sodium Hydroxide (Lye/Caustic Soda).
#Put 200ml of '''cold''' de-ionised water into the measuring jug.
#Slowly add the 50g of lye to the water and stir using a metal spoon until it is all dissolved.
#Carefully add the caustic solution to the bottle.
#Top up with 140ml de-ionised water to the bottle; the overall volume should be around 700ml altogether now.
#Shake the mixture up; it should go very dark...almost black.
#Put the bottle in a heat bath as before and soak for at least 1 hour, re-heating the pan if necessary.
#Shake the mixture occasionally to prevent settling.
===Step Six: Adding the Non-Polar Solvent===

#Measure out 50ml of naphtha (lighter fluid) and pour into the bottle.
#Lightly shake and roll the mixture in a 'figure of 8' fashion for 20-30 seconds.
#Unscrew the cap momentarily to release any pressure build-up then tighten again.
#Place back in a heat bath. (Heated pulls draw more product)
#Leave for a while until the naphtha separates again.
#Repeat this '''four times''' (shake/separate). This should take around 45 mins.
===Step Seven: Pulling===

#After the 4 x naphtha mixing, carefully suck out all the naphtha from the top layer with the turkey baster and squirt it into a glass roasting dish. This takes a bit of patience and skill. Be very careful not to disturb the basified mix (black layer) - Do not suck up any of the basified mix. If you can’t get the last bit, you can suck up the naphtha and a bit of the basified mix and place them in a drinks glass and wait a short time to separate again. It will be easier to see the layering and retrieve the last bit. Use an eyedropper if necessary.
#The first pulls may be heavily saturated and turn milky when it hits the dish: This is a good sign. Later pulls may look clear or yellowy, but this is fine.
#Tightly pull food wrap around the dish to form a sealed lid, airtight and watertight.
#Put the dish straight in the freezer.
#Repeat Steps Six and Seven '''four more times''', giving '''five pulls''' in total.
#Place the 'pulls’ in the freezer for 12-18 hours, ideally overnight. Do not disturb them, it’s tempting to look but try not to.
===Step Eight: After the Freeze===

#After 12/18 hours in the freezer, take out the dishes one by one and suck out or pour out the naphtha into your storage jam jar, or you can reuse for the next pull.
#Place the dishes upside down on a cloth for a few minutes to drain off excess naphtha.

''Speed is critical here''; you want to do this as fast as possible because the product will want to re-dissolve into any remaining naphtha at room temperature. Try not to get any water droplets in the dishes.
===Step Nine: Drying===

Straight away, place the dishes against a wall and blow a cold fan over them for at least 20 minutes.

You want to make sure '''ALL''' the naphtha (and any water drops) has evaporated. No smell of solvent should remain.
===Step Ten: Scraping===

It may look like "Snow Globe" crystals '''or''' (as shown) a layer of dried gooey oil with white dots (crystals) growing on top.

*Use a blade to scrape all the crystals/oil together.

*Scrape all the dishes; you may have some in the freezer for the next day, just scrape them after the drying.

*Place on a piece of paper for further drying.

At this point, after five pulls you have around 1g of product that is perfectly useable. Some even prefer the yellow (full spectrum) stuff, but if you want to purify further to get whiter, fluffier crystal...here’s how.
===Step Eleven: Re-X (The Extra Mile)===
====Required Equipment====
*A small glass or shot glass for separation.
*A small glass or small dish for crystallization in the freezer.
*A jam jar for heating the naphtha.

====Method====

#Place your product in the small shot glass.
#Put around 40/50ml of Naphtha in the jar.
#Next place the jar in a heat bath with a sieve in the pan, this stops it bubbling too hard. The lid should be just resting on the jar to prevent fumes from escaping. '''DO NOT''' screw the lid tight! The expanding fumes will create enough pressure to explode the jar. Heat and lighter fluid = '''DISASTER'''!
#Heat the pan until boiling for a few minutes to heat the naphtha in the jar.
#Turn off the heat and take out the jar (use gloves, it will be hot!) and pour the naphtha into the shot glass with the product.
#Everything will dissolve into the naphtha and you will see the impurities start to separate and fall to the bottom. You can rest the glass in the heat bath to help if needed.
#After a few minutes you will need to decant the saturated naphtha into the other glass leaving the impurities behind. Use an eyedropper if you have one or carefully pour it off. You can leave the impurities for the next time you Re-X or add a little more naphtha and try to get a little more.
#Now take your glass and put a tin foil lid on it to prevent dust and water vapour from getting in and put it in the fridge for 1 hour to cool.
#Put it in the freezer overnight.
#In the morning after 12/18 hours of Re-crystallising you will need to pour off the remaining naphtha and dry with a fan as before. It will take a lot of drying as the crystal layer will be deep and needs to be completely free of solvent.
#Scrape out and marvel at your handy work...Around 1g of fluffy product from 50g of bark.

==Additional Notes==
*Although I have included an acidic bath to begin with, this can be omitted and the extractor can go STB (Straight-To-Base) if they wish: Just start with the salt (Step Four) and make sure you end up with 700ml of liquid.
*You can also omit the heat baths if you want to do the Tek 'cold' although the yield maybe affected.
*This Tek should produce around 2% Yield depending on the bark used, that's 1g of product per 50g of bark which equated to around 30-40 hits; enough for any beginner!
*New research by users indicate that salt can be used (with good results) with Acacia Extractions inc. A/B (Just add salt at the Basification Stage (Step Five))

Info on salting: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32567 Salt]

== Footnotes ==
[1] See responses to the original thread where yields of up to 1g of DMT have been reported from 50g of MHRB. 
[2] As of 04/12/12: This information is subject to change.

Cybs' Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek

2012-12-05T01:43:38Z

Non Dua Natura: /* Step One: Weighing the Bark */

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek<ref>Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek - 5th September 2012[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=381707#post381707]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}

==Introduction==
This a hybridized ATB tek developed by Cyb for the extraction of DMT from Mimosa Hostilis root bark; this is a very straightforward, and apparently high-yielding[1] method put together with the newbie kitchen alchemist in mind and using easy-to-source solvents, bases and equipment. The tek may be suitable for extracting from other organic materials, such as acacia although there is no information on yields or success rates so far.[2]

Original Post: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=381707#post381707 Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek]

Download: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=13453 PDF]
==Required Equipment==
[[File:Cyb-Tekpic1-EQUIPMENT.jpg|right|thumb|Required Equipment]]

* Mimosa Hostilis Bark (Powdered)
* 1-Litre Mixing Bottle or Jar (With Lid)
* De-ionised (or Distilled) Water
* Lye (Caustic Soda)
* White (Distilled) Vinegar
* Naphtha (Lighter Fluid, e.g. Swan, Ronsonol, Newport)
* Spare Jam Jar (Storage of used naptha)
* Funnel
* Glass Measuring Jug
* Turkey Baster
* Scales (Milligram)
* Glass Roasting Dish (x3) (Not Shown)
* Food Wrap/Cling-film (Not Shown)

==Step-by-Step Guide==
===Step One: Weighing the Bark===
[[File:Cyb-Tekpic2-ROOTBARK.jpg|left|thumb|150px|Weighing the Bark]]

We are using 50g (approx) in this Tek.

Use powdered bark; if you have shredded bark, put it in a glass blender and whiz it up good until powdered. Some fibrous material will remain...that’s fine.

===Step Two: Material in Container===
[[File:Cyb-Tekpic3-BARKINJAR.jpg|thumb|Material in Container]]

Put the Bark in the mixing bottle/jar, using the funnel if necessary.

===Step Three: Acidifying===

#Put 200ml De-ionised water in a pan, add 60ml vinegar and bring to ''just'' boiling.
#Pour the acidic solution into the mixing bottle.
#Put some tap water in a pan and bring to the boil, then turn off the heat.
#Shake the bottle and place in the heat bath.
#Shake/mix occasionally and re-heat if necessary.
#Leave to soak for '''at least''' one hour.
===Step Four: Salting===

#Weigh out 30g of salt; preferably a good quality salt, although any table salt will do.
#Put 100ml of de-ionised water in a pan and heat to nearly boiling.
#Add the 30g salt and stir until dissolved.
#Pour the saturated saline solution into the bottle.
===Step Five: Basifying===

'''This step uses lye/caustic soda; the author offers the following caveat regarding its usage and its neutralization in the event of spillage''': ''Caution: Lye is extremely dangerous...do not get any on your skin or eyes. Use gloves if you have them. Vinegar will neutralise any spills. Never pour Hot water on top of lye...it will react violently and splash.'' 

#Weigh out 50g of Sodium Hydroxide (Lye/Caustic Soda).
#Put 200ml of '''cold''' de-ionised water into the measuring jug.
#Slowly add the 50g of lye to the water and stir using a metal spoon until it is all dissolved.
#Carefully add the caustic solution to the bottle.
#Top up with 140ml de-ionised water to the bottle; the overall volume should be around 700ml altogether now.
#Shake the mixture up; it should go very dark...almost black.
#Put the bottle in a heat bath as before and soak for at least 1 hour, re-heating the pan if necessary.
#Shake the mixture occasionally to prevent settling.
===Step Six: Adding the Non-Polar Solvent===

#Measure out 50ml of naphtha (lighter fluid) and pour into the bottle.
#Lightly shake and roll the mixture in a 'figure of 8' fashion for 20-30 seconds.
#Unscrew the cap momentarily to release any pressure build-up then tighten again.
#Place back in a heat bath. (Heated pulls draw more product)
#Leave for a while until the naphtha separates again.
#Repeat this '''four times''' (shake/separate). This should take around 45 mins.
===Step Seven: Pulling===

#After the 4 x naphtha mixing, carefully suck out all the naphtha from the top layer with the turkey baster and squirt it into a glass roasting dish. This takes a bit of patience and skill. Be very careful not to disturb the basified mix (black layer) - Do not suck up any of the basified mix. If you can’t get the last bit, you can suck up the naphtha and a bit of the basified mix and place them in a drinks glass and wait a short time to separate again. It will be easier to see the layering and retrieve the last bit. Use an eyedropper if necessary.
#The first pulls may be heavily saturated and turn milky when it hits the dish: This is a good sign. Later pulls may look clear or yellowy, but this is fine.
#Tightly pull food wrap around the dish to form a sealed lid, airtight and watertight.
#Put the dish straight in the freezer.
#Repeat Steps Six and Seven '''four more times''', giving '''five pulls''' in total.
#Place the 'pulls’ in the freezer for 12-18 hours, ideally overnight. Do not disturb them, it’s tempting to look but try not to.
===Step Eight: After the Freeze===

#After 12/18 hours in the freezer, take out the dishes one by one and suck out or pour out the naphtha into your storage jam jar, or you can reuse for the next pull.
#Place the dishes upside down on a cloth for a few minutes to drain off excess naphtha.

''Speed is critical here''; you want to do this as fast as possible because the product will want to re-dissolve into any remaining naphtha at room temperature. Try not to get any water droplets in the dishes.
===Step Nine: Drying===

Straight away, place the dishes against a wall and blow a cold fan over them for at least 20 minutes.

You want to make sure '''ALL''' the naphtha (and any water drops) has evaporated. No smell of solvent should remain.
===Step Ten: Scraping===

It may look like "Snow Globe" crystals '''or''' (as shown) a layer of dried gooey oil with white dots (crystals) growing on top.

*Use a blade to scrape all the crystals/oil together.

*Scrape all the dishes; you may have some in the freezer for the next day, just scrape them after the drying.

*Place on a piece of paper for further drying.

At this point, after five pulls you have around 1g of product that is perfectly useable. Some even prefer the yellow (full spectrum) stuff, but if you want to purify further to get whiter, fluffier crystal...here’s how.
===Step Eleven: Re-X (The Extra Mile)===
====Required Equipment====
*A small glass or shot glass for separation.
*A small glass or small dish for crystallization in the freezer.
*A jam jar for heating the naphtha.

====Method====

#Place your product in the small shot glass.
#Put around 40/50ml of Naphtha in the jar.
#Next place the jar in a heat bath with a sieve in the pan, this stops it bubbling too hard. The lid should be just resting on the jar to prevent fumes from escaping. '''DO NOT''' screw the lid tight! The expanding fumes will create enough pressure to explode the jar. Heat and lighter fluid = '''DISASTER'''!
#Heat the pan until boiling for a few minutes to heat the naphtha in the jar.
#Turn off the heat and take out the jar (use gloves, it will be hot!) and pour the naphtha into the shot glass with the product.
#Everything will dissolve into the naphtha and you will see the impurities start to separate and fall to the bottom. You can rest the glass in the heat bath to help if needed.
#After a few minutes you will need to decant the saturated naphtha into the other glass leaving the impurities behind. Use an eyedropper if you have one or carefully pour it off. You can leave the impurities for the next time you Re-X or add a little more naphtha and try to get a little more.
#Now take your glass and put a tin foil lid on it to prevent dust and water vapour from getting in and put it in the fridge for 1 hour to cool.
#Put it in the freezer overnight.
#In the morning after 12/18 hours of Re-crystallising you will need to pour off the remaining naphtha and dry with a fan as before. It will take a lot of drying as the crystal layer will be deep and needs to be completely free of solvent.
#Scrape out and marvel at your handy work...Around 1g of fluffy product from 50g of bark.

==Additional Notes==
*Although I have included an acidic bath to begin with, this can be omitted and the extractor can go STB (Straight-To-Base) if they wish: Just start with the salt (Step Four) and make sure you end up with 700ml of liquid.
*You can also omit the heat baths if you want to do the Tek 'cold' although the yield maybe affected.
*This Tek should produce around 2% Yield depending on the bark used, that's 1g of product per 50g of bark which equated to around 30-40 hits; enough for any beginner!
*New research by users indicate that salt can be used (with good results) with Acacia Extractions inc. A/B (Just add salt at the Basification Stage (Step Five))

Info on salting: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32567 Salt]

== Footnotes ==
[1] See responses to the original thread where yields of up to 1g of DMT have been reported from 50g of MHRB. 
[2] As of 04/12/12: This information is subject to change.

Cybs' Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek

2012-12-05T01:41:08Z

Non Dua Natura: /* Step Two: Material in Container */

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek<ref>Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek - 5th September 2012[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=381707#post381707]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}

==Introduction==
This a hybridized ATB tek developed by Cyb for the extraction of DMT from Mimosa Hostilis root bark; this is a very straightforward, and apparently high-yielding[1] method put together with the newbie kitchen alchemist in mind and using easy-to-source solvents, bases and equipment. The tek may be suitable for extracting from other organic materials, such as acacia although there is no information on yields or success rates so far.[2]

Original Post: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=381707#post381707 Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek]

Download: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=13453 PDF]
==Required Equipment==
[[File:Cyb-Tekpic1-EQUIPMENT.jpg|right|thumb|Required Equipment]]

* Mimosa Hostilis Bark (Powdered)
* 1-Litre Mixing Bottle or Jar (With Lid)
* De-ionised (or Distilled) Water
* Lye (Caustic Soda)
* White (Distilled) Vinegar
* Naphtha (Lighter Fluid, e.g. Swan, Ronsonol, Newport)
* Spare Jam Jar (Storage of used naptha)
* Funnel
* Glass Measuring Jug
* Turkey Baster
* Scales (Milligram)
* Glass Roasting Dish (x3) (Not Shown)
* Food Wrap/Cling-film (Not Shown)

==Step-by-Step Guide==
===Step One: Weighing the Bark===
[[File:Cyb-Tekpic2-ROOTBARK.jpg|right|thumb|Weighing the Bark]]
We are using 50g (approx) in this Tek.

Use powdered bark; if you have shredded bark, put it in a glass blender and whiz it up good until powdered. Some fibrous material will remain...that’s fine.

===Step Two: Material in Container===
[[File:Cyb-Tekpic3-BARKINJAR.jpg|thumb|Material in Container]]

Put the Bark in the mixing bottle/jar, using the funnel if necessary.

===Step Three: Acidifying===

#Put 200ml De-ionised water in a pan, add 60ml vinegar and bring to ''just'' boiling.
#Pour the acidic solution into the mixing bottle.
#Put some tap water in a pan and bring to the boil, then turn off the heat.
#Shake the bottle and place in the heat bath.
#Shake/mix occasionally and re-heat if necessary.
#Leave to soak for '''at least''' one hour.
===Step Four: Salting===

#Weigh out 30g of salt; preferably a good quality salt, although any table salt will do.
#Put 100ml of de-ionised water in a pan and heat to nearly boiling.
#Add the 30g salt and stir until dissolved.
#Pour the saturated saline solution into the bottle.
===Step Five: Basifying===

'''This step uses lye/caustic soda; the author offers the following caveat regarding its usage and its neutralization in the event of spillage''': ''Caution: Lye is extremely dangerous...do not get any on your skin or eyes. Use gloves if you have them. Vinegar will neutralise any spills. Never pour Hot water on top of lye...it will react violently and splash.'' 

#Weigh out 50g of Sodium Hydroxide (Lye/Caustic Soda).
#Put 200ml of '''cold''' de-ionised water into the measuring jug.
#Slowly add the 50g of lye to the water and stir using a metal spoon until it is all dissolved.
#Carefully add the caustic solution to the bottle.
#Top up with 140ml de-ionised water to the bottle; the overall volume should be around 700ml altogether now.
#Shake the mixture up; it should go very dark...almost black.
#Put the bottle in a heat bath as before and soak for at least 1 hour, re-heating the pan if necessary.
#Shake the mixture occasionally to prevent settling.
===Step Six: Adding the Non-Polar Solvent===

#Measure out 50ml of naphtha (lighter fluid) and pour into the bottle.
#Lightly shake and roll the mixture in a 'figure of 8' fashion for 20-30 seconds.
#Unscrew the cap momentarily to release any pressure build-up then tighten again.
#Place back in a heat bath. (Heated pulls draw more product)
#Leave for a while until the naphtha separates again.
#Repeat this '''four times''' (shake/separate). This should take around 45 mins.
===Step Seven: Pulling===

#After the 4 x naphtha mixing, carefully suck out all the naphtha from the top layer with the turkey baster and squirt it into a glass roasting dish. This takes a bit of patience and skill. Be very careful not to disturb the basified mix (black layer) - Do not suck up any of the basified mix. If you can’t get the last bit, you can suck up the naphtha and a bit of the basified mix and place them in a drinks glass and wait a short time to separate again. It will be easier to see the layering and retrieve the last bit. Use an eyedropper if necessary.
#The first pulls may be heavily saturated and turn milky when it hits the dish: This is a good sign. Later pulls may look clear or yellowy, but this is fine.
#Tightly pull food wrap around the dish to form a sealed lid, airtight and watertight.
#Put the dish straight in the freezer.
#Repeat Steps Six and Seven '''four more times''', giving '''five pulls''' in total.
#Place the 'pulls’ in the freezer for 12-18 hours, ideally overnight. Do not disturb them, it’s tempting to look but try not to.
===Step Eight: After the Freeze===

#After 12/18 hours in the freezer, take out the dishes one by one and suck out or pour out the naphtha into your storage jam jar, or you can reuse for the next pull.
#Place the dishes upside down on a cloth for a few minutes to drain off excess naphtha.

''Speed is critical here''; you want to do this as fast as possible because the product will want to re-dissolve into any remaining naphtha at room temperature. Try not to get any water droplets in the dishes.
===Step Nine: Drying===

Straight away, place the dishes against a wall and blow a cold fan over them for at least 20 minutes.

You want to make sure '''ALL''' the naphtha (and any water drops) has evaporated. No smell of solvent should remain.
===Step Ten: Scraping===

It may look like "Snow Globe" crystals '''or''' (as shown) a layer of dried gooey oil with white dots (crystals) growing on top.

*Use a blade to scrape all the crystals/oil together.

*Scrape all the dishes; you may have some in the freezer for the next day, just scrape them after the drying.

*Place on a piece of paper for further drying.

At this point, after five pulls you have around 1g of product that is perfectly useable. Some even prefer the yellow (full spectrum) stuff, but if you want to purify further to get whiter, fluffier crystal...here’s how.
===Step Eleven: Re-X (The Extra Mile)===
====Required Equipment====
*A small glass or shot glass for separation.
*A small glass or small dish for crystallization in the freezer.
*A jam jar for heating the naphtha.

====Method====

#Place your product in the small shot glass.
#Put around 40/50ml of Naphtha in the jar.
#Next place the jar in a heat bath with a sieve in the pan, this stops it bubbling too hard. The lid should be just resting on the jar to prevent fumes from escaping. '''DO NOT''' screw the lid tight! The expanding fumes will create enough pressure to explode the jar. Heat and lighter fluid = '''DISASTER'''!
#Heat the pan until boiling for a few minutes to heat the naphtha in the jar.
#Turn off the heat and take out the jar (use gloves, it will be hot!) and pour the naphtha into the shot glass with the product.
#Everything will dissolve into the naphtha and you will see the impurities start to separate and fall to the bottom. You can rest the glass in the heat bath to help if needed.
#After a few minutes you will need to decant the saturated naphtha into the other glass leaving the impurities behind. Use an eyedropper if you have one or carefully pour it off. You can leave the impurities for the next time you Re-X or add a little more naphtha and try to get a little more.
#Now take your glass and put a tin foil lid on it to prevent dust and water vapour from getting in and put it in the fridge for 1 hour to cool.
#Put it in the freezer overnight.
#In the morning after 12/18 hours of Re-crystallising you will need to pour off the remaining naphtha and dry with a fan as before. It will take a lot of drying as the crystal layer will be deep and needs to be completely free of solvent.
#Scrape out and marvel at your handy work...Around 1g of fluffy product from 50g of bark.

==Additional Notes==
*Although I have included an acidic bath to begin with, this can be omitted and the extractor can go STB (Straight-To-Base) if they wish: Just start with the salt (Step Four) and make sure you end up with 700ml of liquid.
*You can also omit the heat baths if you want to do the Tek 'cold' although the yield maybe affected.
*This Tek should produce around 2% Yield depending on the bark used, that's 1g of product per 50g of bark which equated to around 30-40 hits; enough for any beginner!
*New research by users indicate that salt can be used (with good results) with Acacia Extractions inc. A/B (Just add salt at the Basification Stage (Step Five))

Info on salting: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32567 Salt]

== Footnotes ==
[1] See responses to the original thread where yields of up to 1g of DMT have been reported from 50g of MHRB. 
[2] As of 04/12/12: This information is subject to change.

Cybs' Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek

2012-12-05T01:40:41Z

Non Dua Natura: /* Step Two: Material in Container */ Added image.

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek<ref>Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek - 5th September 2012[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=381707#post381707]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}

==Introduction==
This a hybridized ATB tek developed by Cyb for the extraction of DMT from Mimosa Hostilis root bark; this is a very straightforward, and apparently high-yielding[1] method put together with the newbie kitchen alchemist in mind and using easy-to-source solvents, bases and equipment. The tek may be suitable for extracting from other organic materials, such as acacia although there is no information on yields or success rates so far.[2]

Original Post: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=381707#post381707 Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek]

Download: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=13453 PDF]
==Required Equipment==
[[File:Cyb-Tekpic1-EQUIPMENT.jpg|right|thumb|Required Equipment]]

* Mimosa Hostilis Bark (Powdered)
* 1-Litre Mixing Bottle or Jar (With Lid)
* De-ionised (or Distilled) Water
* Lye (Caustic Soda)
* White (Distilled) Vinegar
* Naphtha (Lighter Fluid, e.g. Swan, Ronsonol, Newport)
* Spare Jam Jar (Storage of used naptha)
* Funnel
* Glass Measuring Jug
* Turkey Baster
* Scales (Milligram)
* Glass Roasting Dish (x3) (Not Shown)
* Food Wrap/Cling-film (Not Shown)

==Step-by-Step Guide==
===Step One: Weighing the Bark===
[[File:Cyb-Tekpic2-ROOTBARK.jpg|right|thumb|Weighing the Bark]]
We are using 50g (approx) in this Tek.

Use powdered bark; if you have shredded bark, put it in a glass blender and whiz it up good until powdered. Some fibrous material will remain...that’s fine.

===Step Two: Material in Container===
[[File:Cyb-Tekpic2-ROOTBARK.jpg|thumb|Material in Container]]

Put the Bark in the mixing bottle/jar, using the funnel if necessary.

===Step Three: Acidifying===

#Put 200ml De-ionised water in a pan, add 60ml vinegar and bring to ''just'' boiling.
#Pour the acidic solution into the mixing bottle.
#Put some tap water in a pan and bring to the boil, then turn off the heat.
#Shake the bottle and place in the heat bath.
#Shake/mix occasionally and re-heat if necessary.
#Leave to soak for '''at least''' one hour.
===Step Four: Salting===

#Weigh out 30g of salt; preferably a good quality salt, although any table salt will do.
#Put 100ml of de-ionised water in a pan and heat to nearly boiling.
#Add the 30g salt and stir until dissolved.
#Pour the saturated saline solution into the bottle.
===Step Five: Basifying===

'''This step uses lye/caustic soda; the author offers the following caveat regarding its usage and its neutralization in the event of spillage''': ''Caution: Lye is extremely dangerous...do not get any on your skin or eyes. Use gloves if you have them. Vinegar will neutralise any spills. Never pour Hot water on top of lye...it will react violently and splash.'' 

#Weigh out 50g of Sodium Hydroxide (Lye/Caustic Soda).
#Put 200ml of '''cold''' de-ionised water into the measuring jug.
#Slowly add the 50g of lye to the water and stir using a metal spoon until it is all dissolved.
#Carefully add the caustic solution to the bottle.
#Top up with 140ml de-ionised water to the bottle; the overall volume should be around 700ml altogether now.
#Shake the mixture up; it should go very dark...almost black.
#Put the bottle in a heat bath as before and soak for at least 1 hour, re-heating the pan if necessary.
#Shake the mixture occasionally to prevent settling.
===Step Six: Adding the Non-Polar Solvent===

#Measure out 50ml of naphtha (lighter fluid) and pour into the bottle.
#Lightly shake and roll the mixture in a 'figure of 8' fashion for 20-30 seconds.
#Unscrew the cap momentarily to release any pressure build-up then tighten again.
#Place back in a heat bath. (Heated pulls draw more product)
#Leave for a while until the naphtha separates again.
#Repeat this '''four times''' (shake/separate). This should take around 45 mins.
===Step Seven: Pulling===

#After the 4 x naphtha mixing, carefully suck out all the naphtha from the top layer with the turkey baster and squirt it into a glass roasting dish. This takes a bit of patience and skill. Be very careful not to disturb the basified mix (black layer) - Do not suck up any of the basified mix. If you can’t get the last bit, you can suck up the naphtha and a bit of the basified mix and place them in a drinks glass and wait a short time to separate again. It will be easier to see the layering and retrieve the last bit. Use an eyedropper if necessary.
#The first pulls may be heavily saturated and turn milky when it hits the dish: This is a good sign. Later pulls may look clear or yellowy, but this is fine.
#Tightly pull food wrap around the dish to form a sealed lid, airtight and watertight.
#Put the dish straight in the freezer.
#Repeat Steps Six and Seven '''four more times''', giving '''five pulls''' in total.
#Place the 'pulls’ in the freezer for 12-18 hours, ideally overnight. Do not disturb them, it’s tempting to look but try not to.
===Step Eight: After the Freeze===

#After 12/18 hours in the freezer, take out the dishes one by one and suck out or pour out the naphtha into your storage jam jar, or you can reuse for the next pull.
#Place the dishes upside down on a cloth for a few minutes to drain off excess naphtha.

''Speed is critical here''; you want to do this as fast as possible because the product will want to re-dissolve into any remaining naphtha at room temperature. Try not to get any water droplets in the dishes.
===Step Nine: Drying===

Straight away, place the dishes against a wall and blow a cold fan over them for at least 20 minutes.

You want to make sure '''ALL''' the naphtha (and any water drops) has evaporated. No smell of solvent should remain.
===Step Ten: Scraping===

It may look like "Snow Globe" crystals '''or''' (as shown) a layer of dried gooey oil with white dots (crystals) growing on top.

*Use a blade to scrape all the crystals/oil together.

*Scrape all the dishes; you may have some in the freezer for the next day, just scrape them after the drying.

*Place on a piece of paper for further drying.

At this point, after five pulls you have around 1g of product that is perfectly useable. Some even prefer the yellow (full spectrum) stuff, but if you want to purify further to get whiter, fluffier crystal...here’s how.
===Step Eleven: Re-X (The Extra Mile)===
====Required Equipment====
*A small glass or shot glass for separation.
*A small glass or small dish for crystallization in the freezer.
*A jam jar for heating the naphtha.

====Method====

#Place your product in the small shot glass.
#Put around 40/50ml of Naphtha in the jar.
#Next place the jar in a heat bath with a sieve in the pan, this stops it bubbling too hard. The lid should be just resting on the jar to prevent fumes from escaping. '''DO NOT''' screw the lid tight! The expanding fumes will create enough pressure to explode the jar. Heat and lighter fluid = '''DISASTER'''!
#Heat the pan until boiling for a few minutes to heat the naphtha in the jar.
#Turn off the heat and take out the jar (use gloves, it will be hot!) and pour the naphtha into the shot glass with the product.
#Everything will dissolve into the naphtha and you will see the impurities start to separate and fall to the bottom. You can rest the glass in the heat bath to help if needed.
#After a few minutes you will need to decant the saturated naphtha into the other glass leaving the impurities behind. Use an eyedropper if you have one or carefully pour it off. You can leave the impurities for the next time you Re-X or add a little more naphtha and try to get a little more.
#Now take your glass and put a tin foil lid on it to prevent dust and water vapour from getting in and put it in the fridge for 1 hour to cool.
#Put it in the freezer overnight.
#In the morning after 12/18 hours of Re-crystallising you will need to pour off the remaining naphtha and dry with a fan as before. It will take a lot of drying as the crystal layer will be deep and needs to be completely free of solvent.
#Scrape out and marvel at your handy work...Around 1g of fluffy product from 50g of bark.

==Additional Notes==
*Although I have included an acidic bath to begin with, this can be omitted and the extractor can go STB (Straight-To-Base) if they wish: Just start with the salt (Step Four) and make sure you end up with 700ml of liquid.
*You can also omit the heat baths if you want to do the Tek 'cold' although the yield maybe affected.
*This Tek should produce around 2% Yield depending on the bark used, that's 1g of product per 50g of bark which equated to around 30-40 hits; enough for any beginner!
*New research by users indicate that salt can be used (with good results) with Acacia Extractions inc. A/B (Just add salt at the Basification Stage (Step Five))

Info on salting: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32567 Salt]

== Footnotes ==
[1] See responses to the original thread where yields of up to 1g of DMT have been reported from 50g of MHRB. 
[2] As of 04/12/12: This information is subject to change.

Cybs' Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek

2012-12-05T01:39:14Z

Non Dua Natura: /* Step One: Weighing the Bark */ Added image.

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek<ref>Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek - 5th September 2012[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=381707#post381707]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}

==Introduction==
This a hybridized ATB tek developed by Cyb for the extraction of DMT from Mimosa Hostilis root bark; this is a very straightforward, and apparently high-yielding[1] method put together with the newbie kitchen alchemist in mind and using easy-to-source solvents, bases and equipment. The tek may be suitable for extracting from other organic materials, such as acacia although there is no information on yields or success rates so far.[2]

Original Post: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=381707#post381707 Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek]

Download: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=13453 PDF]
==Required Equipment==
[[File:Cyb-Tekpic1-EQUIPMENT.jpg|right|thumb|Required Equipment]]

* Mimosa Hostilis Bark (Powdered)
* 1-Litre Mixing Bottle or Jar (With Lid)
* De-ionised (or Distilled) Water
* Lye (Caustic Soda)
* White (Distilled) Vinegar
* Naphtha (Lighter Fluid, e.g. Swan, Ronsonol, Newport)
* Spare Jam Jar (Storage of used naptha)
* Funnel
* Glass Measuring Jug
* Turkey Baster
* Scales (Milligram)
* Glass Roasting Dish (x3) (Not Shown)
* Food Wrap/Cling-film (Not Shown)

==Step-by-Step Guide==
===Step One: Weighing the Bark===
[[File:Cyb-Tekpic2-ROOTBARK.jpg|right|thumb|Weighing the Bark]]
We are using 50g (approx) in this Tek.

Use powdered bark; if you have shredded bark, put it in a glass blender and whiz it up good until powdered. Some fibrous material will remain...that’s fine.

===Step Two: Material in Container===

Put the Bark in the mixing bottle/jar, using the funnel if necessary.
===Step Three: Acidifying===

#Put 200ml De-ionised water in a pan, add 60ml vinegar and bring to ''just'' boiling.
#Pour the acidic solution into the mixing bottle.
#Put some tap water in a pan and bring to the boil, then turn off the heat.
#Shake the bottle and place in the heat bath.
#Shake/mix occasionally and re-heat if necessary.
#Leave to soak for '''at least''' one hour.
===Step Four: Salting===

#Weigh out 30g of salt; preferably a good quality salt, although any table salt will do.
#Put 100ml of de-ionised water in a pan and heat to nearly boiling.
#Add the 30g salt and stir until dissolved.
#Pour the saturated saline solution into the bottle.
===Step Five: Basifying===

'''This step uses lye/caustic soda; the author offers the following caveat regarding its usage and its neutralization in the event of spillage''': ''Caution: Lye is extremely dangerous...do not get any on your skin or eyes. Use gloves if you have them. Vinegar will neutralise any spills. Never pour Hot water on top of lye...it will react violently and splash.'' 

#Weigh out 50g of Sodium Hydroxide (Lye/Caustic Soda).
#Put 200ml of '''cold''' de-ionised water into the measuring jug.
#Slowly add the 50g of lye to the water and stir using a metal spoon until it is all dissolved.
#Carefully add the caustic solution to the bottle.
#Top up with 140ml de-ionised water to the bottle; the overall volume should be around 700ml altogether now.
#Shake the mixture up; it should go very dark...almost black.
#Put the bottle in a heat bath as before and soak for at least 1 hour, re-heating the pan if necessary.
#Shake the mixture occasionally to prevent settling.
===Step Six: Adding the Non-Polar Solvent===

#Measure out 50ml of naphtha (lighter fluid) and pour into the bottle.
#Lightly shake and roll the mixture in a 'figure of 8' fashion for 20-30 seconds.
#Unscrew the cap momentarily to release any pressure build-up then tighten again.
#Place back in a heat bath. (Heated pulls draw more product)
#Leave for a while until the naphtha separates again.
#Repeat this '''four times''' (shake/separate). This should take around 45 mins.
===Step Seven: Pulling===

#After the 4 x naphtha mixing, carefully suck out all the naphtha from the top layer with the turkey baster and squirt it into a glass roasting dish. This takes a bit of patience and skill. Be very careful not to disturb the basified mix (black layer) - Do not suck up any of the basified mix. If you can’t get the last bit, you can suck up the naphtha and a bit of the basified mix and place them in a drinks glass and wait a short time to separate again. It will be easier to see the layering and retrieve the last bit. Use an eyedropper if necessary.
#The first pulls may be heavily saturated and turn milky when it hits the dish: This is a good sign. Later pulls may look clear or yellowy, but this is fine.
#Tightly pull food wrap around the dish to form a sealed lid, airtight and watertight.
#Put the dish straight in the freezer.
#Repeat Steps Six and Seven '''four more times''', giving '''five pulls''' in total.
#Place the 'pulls’ in the freezer for 12-18 hours, ideally overnight. Do not disturb them, it’s tempting to look but try not to.
===Step Eight: After the Freeze===

#After 12/18 hours in the freezer, take out the dishes one by one and suck out or pour out the naphtha into your storage jam jar, or you can reuse for the next pull.
#Place the dishes upside down on a cloth for a few minutes to drain off excess naphtha.

''Speed is critical here''; you want to do this as fast as possible because the product will want to re-dissolve into any remaining naphtha at room temperature. Try not to get any water droplets in the dishes.
===Step Nine: Drying===

Straight away, place the dishes against a wall and blow a cold fan over them for at least 20 minutes.

You want to make sure '''ALL''' the naphtha (and any water drops) has evaporated. No smell of solvent should remain.
===Step Ten: Scraping===

It may look like "Snow Globe" crystals '''or''' (as shown) a layer of dried gooey oil with white dots (crystals) growing on top.

*Use a blade to scrape all the crystals/oil together.

*Scrape all the dishes; you may have some in the freezer for the next day, just scrape them after the drying.

*Place on a piece of paper for further drying.

At this point, after five pulls you have around 1g of product that is perfectly useable. Some even prefer the yellow (full spectrum) stuff, but if you want to purify further to get whiter, fluffier crystal...here’s how.
===Step Eleven: Re-X (The Extra Mile)===
====Required Equipment====
*A small glass or shot glass for separation.
*A small glass or small dish for crystallization in the freezer.
*A jam jar for heating the naphtha.

====Method====

#Place your product in the small shot glass.
#Put around 40/50ml of Naphtha in the jar.
#Next place the jar in a heat bath with a sieve in the pan, this stops it bubbling too hard. The lid should be just resting on the jar to prevent fumes from escaping. '''DO NOT''' screw the lid tight! The expanding fumes will create enough pressure to explode the jar. Heat and lighter fluid = '''DISASTER'''!
#Heat the pan until boiling for a few minutes to heat the naphtha in the jar.
#Turn off the heat and take out the jar (use gloves, it will be hot!) and pour the naphtha into the shot glass with the product.
#Everything will dissolve into the naphtha and you will see the impurities start to separate and fall to the bottom. You can rest the glass in the heat bath to help if needed.
#After a few minutes you will need to decant the saturated naphtha into the other glass leaving the impurities behind. Use an eyedropper if you have one or carefully pour it off. You can leave the impurities for the next time you Re-X or add a little more naphtha and try to get a little more.
#Now take your glass and put a tin foil lid on it to prevent dust and water vapour from getting in and put it in the fridge for 1 hour to cool.
#Put it in the freezer overnight.
#In the morning after 12/18 hours of Re-crystallising you will need to pour off the remaining naphtha and dry with a fan as before. It will take a lot of drying as the crystal layer will be deep and needs to be completely free of solvent.
#Scrape out and marvel at your handy work...Around 1g of fluffy product from 50g of bark.

==Additional Notes==
*Although I have included an acidic bath to begin with, this can be omitted and the extractor can go STB (Straight-To-Base) if they wish: Just start with the salt (Step Four) and make sure you end up with 700ml of liquid.
*You can also omit the heat baths if you want to do the Tek 'cold' although the yield maybe affected.
*This Tek should produce around 2% Yield depending on the bark used, that's 1g of product per 50g of bark which equated to around 30-40 hits; enough for any beginner!
*New research by users indicate that salt can be used (with good results) with Acacia Extractions inc. A/B (Just add salt at the Basification Stage (Step Five))

Info on salting: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32567 Salt]

== Footnotes ==
[1] See responses to the original thread where yields of up to 1g of DMT have been reported from 50g of MHRB. 
[2] As of 04/12/12: This information is subject to change.

Cybs' Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek

2012-12-05T01:37:26Z

Non Dua Natura: /* Required Equipment */ Added image.

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek<ref>Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek - 5th September 2012[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=381707#post381707]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}

==Introduction==
This a hybridized ATB tek developed by Cyb for the extraction of DMT from Mimosa Hostilis root bark; this is a very straightforward, and apparently high-yielding[1] method put together with the newbie kitchen alchemist in mind and using easy-to-source solvents, bases and equipment. The tek may be suitable for extracting from other organic materials, such as acacia although there is no information on yields or success rates so far.[2]

Original Post: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=381707#post381707 Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek]

Download: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=13453 PDF]
==Required Equipment==
[[File:Cyb-Tekpic1-EQUIPMENT.jpg|right|thumb|Required Equipment]]

* Mimosa Hostilis Bark (Powdered)
* 1-Litre Mixing Bottle or Jar (With Lid)
* De-ionised (or Distilled) Water
* Lye (Caustic Soda)
* White (Distilled) Vinegar
* Naphtha (Lighter Fluid, e.g. Swan, Ronsonol, Newport)
* Spare Jam Jar (Storage of used naptha)
* Funnel
* Glass Measuring Jug
* Turkey Baster
* Scales (Milligram)
* Glass Roasting Dish (x3) (Not Shown)
* Food Wrap/Cling-film (Not Shown)

==Step-by-Step Guide==
===Step One: Weighing the Bark===
We are using 50g (approx) in this Tek.

Use powdered bark; if you have shredded bark, put it in a glass blender and whiz it up good until powdered. Some fibrous material will remain...that’s fine.
===Step Two: Material in Container===

Put the Bark in the mixing bottle/jar, using the funnel if necessary.
===Step Three: Acidifying===

#Put 200ml De-ionised water in a pan, add 60ml vinegar and bring to ''just'' boiling.
#Pour the acidic solution into the mixing bottle.
#Put some tap water in a pan and bring to the boil, then turn off the heat.
#Shake the bottle and place in the heat bath.
#Shake/mix occasionally and re-heat if necessary.
#Leave to soak for '''at least''' one hour.
===Step Four: Salting===

#Weigh out 30g of salt; preferably a good quality salt, although any table salt will do.
#Put 100ml of de-ionised water in a pan and heat to nearly boiling.
#Add the 30g salt and stir until dissolved.
#Pour the saturated saline solution into the bottle.
===Step Five: Basifying===

'''This step uses lye/caustic soda; the author offers the following caveat regarding its usage and its neutralization in the event of spillage''': ''Caution: Lye is extremely dangerous...do not get any on your skin or eyes. Use gloves if you have them. Vinegar will neutralise any spills. Never pour Hot water on top of lye...it will react violently and splash.'' 

#Weigh out 50g of Sodium Hydroxide (Lye/Caustic Soda).
#Put 200ml of '''cold''' de-ionised water into the measuring jug.
#Slowly add the 50g of lye to the water and stir using a metal spoon until it is all dissolved.
#Carefully add the caustic solution to the bottle.
#Top up with 140ml de-ionised water to the bottle; the overall volume should be around 700ml altogether now.
#Shake the mixture up; it should go very dark...almost black.
#Put the bottle in a heat bath as before and soak for at least 1 hour, re-heating the pan if necessary.
#Shake the mixture occasionally to prevent settling.
===Step Six: Adding the Non-Polar Solvent===

#Measure out 50ml of naphtha (lighter fluid) and pour into the bottle.
#Lightly shake and roll the mixture in a 'figure of 8' fashion for 20-30 seconds.
#Unscrew the cap momentarily to release any pressure build-up then tighten again.
#Place back in a heat bath. (Heated pulls draw more product)
#Leave for a while until the naphtha separates again.
#Repeat this '''four times''' (shake/separate). This should take around 45 mins.
===Step Seven: Pulling===

#After the 4 x naphtha mixing, carefully suck out all the naphtha from the top layer with the turkey baster and squirt it into a glass roasting dish. This takes a bit of patience and skill. Be very careful not to disturb the basified mix (black layer) - Do not suck up any of the basified mix. If you can’t get the last bit, you can suck up the naphtha and a bit of the basified mix and place them in a drinks glass and wait a short time to separate again. It will be easier to see the layering and retrieve the last bit. Use an eyedropper if necessary.
#The first pulls may be heavily saturated and turn milky when it hits the dish: This is a good sign. Later pulls may look clear or yellowy, but this is fine.
#Tightly pull food wrap around the dish to form a sealed lid, airtight and watertight.
#Put the dish straight in the freezer.
#Repeat Steps Six and Seven '''four more times''', giving '''five pulls''' in total.
#Place the 'pulls’ in the freezer for 12-18 hours, ideally overnight. Do not disturb them, it’s tempting to look but try not to.
===Step Eight: After the Freeze===

#After 12/18 hours in the freezer, take out the dishes one by one and suck out or pour out the naphtha into your storage jam jar, or you can reuse for the next pull.
#Place the dishes upside down on a cloth for a few minutes to drain off excess naphtha.

''Speed is critical here''; you want to do this as fast as possible because the product will want to re-dissolve into any remaining naphtha at room temperature. Try not to get any water droplets in the dishes.
===Step Nine: Drying===

Straight away, place the dishes against a wall and blow a cold fan over them for at least 20 minutes.

You want to make sure '''ALL''' the naphtha (and any water drops) has evaporated. No smell of solvent should remain.
===Step Ten: Scraping===

It may look like "Snow Globe" crystals '''or''' (as shown) a layer of dried gooey oil with white dots (crystals) growing on top.

*Use a blade to scrape all the crystals/oil together.

*Scrape all the dishes; you may have some in the freezer for the next day, just scrape them after the drying.

*Place on a piece of paper for further drying.

At this point, after five pulls you have around 1g of product that is perfectly useable. Some even prefer the yellow (full spectrum) stuff, but if you want to purify further to get whiter, fluffier crystal...here’s how.
===Step Eleven: Re-X (The Extra Mile)===
====Required Equipment====
*A small glass or shot glass for separation.
*A small glass or small dish for crystallization in the freezer.
*A jam jar for heating the naphtha.

====Method====

#Place your product in the small shot glass.
#Put around 40/50ml of Naphtha in the jar.
#Next place the jar in a heat bath with a sieve in the pan, this stops it bubbling too hard. The lid should be just resting on the jar to prevent fumes from escaping. '''DO NOT''' screw the lid tight! The expanding fumes will create enough pressure to explode the jar. Heat and lighter fluid = '''DISASTER'''!
#Heat the pan until boiling for a few minutes to heat the naphtha in the jar.
#Turn off the heat and take out the jar (use gloves, it will be hot!) and pour the naphtha into the shot glass with the product.
#Everything will dissolve into the naphtha and you will see the impurities start to separate and fall to the bottom. You can rest the glass in the heat bath to help if needed.
#After a few minutes you will need to decant the saturated naphtha into the other glass leaving the impurities behind. Use an eyedropper if you have one or carefully pour it off. You can leave the impurities for the next time you Re-X or add a little more naphtha and try to get a little more.
#Now take your glass and put a tin foil lid on it to prevent dust and water vapour from getting in and put it in the fridge for 1 hour to cool.
#Put it in the freezer overnight.
#In the morning after 12/18 hours of Re-crystallising you will need to pour off the remaining naphtha and dry with a fan as before. It will take a lot of drying as the crystal layer will be deep and needs to be completely free of solvent.
#Scrape out and marvel at your handy work...Around 1g of fluffy product from 50g of bark.

==Additional Notes==
*Although I have included an acidic bath to begin with, this can be omitted and the extractor can go STB (Straight-To-Base) if they wish: Just start with the salt (Step Four) and make sure you end up with 700ml of liquid.
*You can also omit the heat baths if you want to do the Tek 'cold' although the yield maybe affected.
*This Tek should produce around 2% Yield depending on the bark used, that's 1g of product per 50g of bark which equated to around 30-40 hits; enough for any beginner!
*New research by users indicate that salt can be used (with good results) with Acacia Extractions inc. A/B (Just add salt at the Basification Stage (Step Five))

Info on salting: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32567 Salt]

== Footnotes ==
[1] See responses to the original thread where yields of up to 1g of DMT have been reported from 50g of MHRB. 
[2] As of 04/12/12: This information is subject to change.

File:Cyb-Tekpic-Re-X-ENDPRODUCT.jpg

2012-12-05T01:25:16Z

Non Dua Natura:

File:Cyb-Tekpic-Re-X-PREFREEZE.jpg

2012-12-05T01:24:58Z

Non Dua Natura:

File:Cyb-Tekpic-Re-X-9-ENDIMPURE.jpg

2012-12-05T01:24:30Z

Non Dua Natura:

File:Cyb-Tekpic-Re-X-8-IMPURITIES.jpg

2012-12-05T01:24:15Z

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2012-12-05T01:24:02Z

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2012-12-05T01:23:15Z

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2012-12-05T01:22:44Z

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File:Cyb-Tekpic-Re-X-4-WARMINGNAPTHA.jpg

2012-12-05T01:20:24Z

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File:Cyb-Tekpic-Re-X-3-NAPTHAJAR.jpg

2012-12-05T01:20:09Z

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File:Cyb-Tekpic-Re-X-2-DMTINGLASS.jpg

2012-12-05T01:18:45Z

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2012-12-05T01:12:42Z

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2012-12-05T00:53:25Z

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2012-12-05T00:53:07Z

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2012-12-05T00:52:54Z

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2012-12-05T00:52:39Z

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2012-12-05T00:52:18Z

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2012-12-05T00:51:51Z

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2012-12-05T00:51:37Z

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2012-12-05T00:51:21Z

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2012-12-05T00:51:04Z

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2012-12-05T00:50:49Z

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2012-12-05T00:50:30Z

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File:Cyb-Tekpic14-FIRSTPULL.jpg

2012-12-05T00:50:15Z

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File:Cyb-Tekpic13-NAPTHAOUT.jpg

2012-12-05T00:49:55Z

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2012-12-05T00:49:38Z

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2012-12-05T00:49:23Z

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File:Cyb-Tekpic10-NAPTHAMEASURE.jpg

2012-12-05T00:48:56Z

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2012-12-05T00:48:35Z

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2012-12-05T00:48:19Z

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2012-12-05T00:48:03Z

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2012-12-05T00:47:45Z

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2012-12-05T00:47:28Z

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2012-12-05T00:47:11Z

Non Dua Natura:

File:Cyb-Tekpic3-BARKINJAR.jpg

2012-12-05T00:46:51Z

Non Dua Natura:

File:Cyb-Tekpic2-ROOTBARK.jpg

2012-12-05T00:46:26Z

Non Dua Natura:

File:Cyb-Tekpic1-EQUIPMENT.jpg

2012-12-05T00:45:48Z

Non Dua Natura:

Cybs' Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek

2012-12-05T00:21:11Z

Non Dua Natura: Created page, reformatted and corrected grammar for readability in transferring from the original PDF. The accompanying images will be added once they're uploaded.

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek<ref>Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek - 5th September 2012[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=381707#post381707]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}

==Introduction==
This a hybridized ATB tek developed by Cyb for the extraction of DMT from Mimosa Hostilis root bark; this is a very straightforward, and apparently high-yielding[1] method put together with the newbie kitchen alchemist in mind and using easy-to-source solvents, bases and equipment. The tek may be suitable for extracting from other organic materials, such as acacia although there is no information on yields or success rates so far.[2]

Original Post: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=381707#post381707 Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek]

Download: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=13453 PDF]
==Required Equipment==
* Mimosa Hostilis Bark (Powdered)
* 1-Litre Mixing Bottle or Jar (With Lid)
* De-ionised (or Distilled) Water
* Lye (Caustic Soda)
* White (Distilled) Vinegar
* Naphtha (Lighter Fluid, e.g. Swan, Ronsonol, Newport)
* Spare Jam Jar (Storage of used naptha)
* Funnel
* Glass Measuring Jug
* Turkey Baster
* Scales (Milligram)
* Glass Roasting Dish (x3) (Not Shown)
* Food Wrap/Cling-film (Not Shown)
==Step-by-Step Guide==
===Step One: Weighing the Bark===
We are using 50g (approx) in this Tek.

Use powdered bark; if you have shredded bark, put it in a glass blender and whiz it up good until powdered. Some fibrous material will remain...that’s fine.
===Step Two: Material in Container===

Put the Bark in the mixing bottle/jar, using the funnel if necessary.
===Step Three: Acidifying===

#Put 200ml De-ionised water in a pan, add 60ml vinegar and bring to ''just'' boiling.
#Pour the acidic solution into the mixing bottle.
#Put some tap water in a pan and bring to the boil, then turn off the heat.
#Shake the bottle and place in the heat bath.
#Shake/mix occasionally and re-heat if necessary.
#Leave to soak for '''at least''' one hour.
===Step Four: Salting===

#Weigh out 30g of salt; preferably a good quality salt, although any table salt will do.
#Put 100ml of de-ionised water in a pan and heat to nearly boiling.
#Add the 30g salt and stir until dissolved.
#Pour the saturated saline solution into the bottle.
===Step Five: Basifying===

'''This step uses lye/caustic soda; the author offers the following caveat regarding its usage and its neutralization in the event of spillage''': ''Caution: Lye is extremely dangerous...do not get any on your skin or eyes. Use gloves if you have them. Vinegar will neutralise any spills. Never pour Hot water on top of lye...it will react violently and splash.'' 

#Weigh out 50g of Sodium Hydroxide (Lye/Caustic Soda).
#Put 200ml of '''cold''' de-ionised water into the measuring jug.
#Slowly add the 50g of lye to the water and stir using a metal spoon until it is all dissolved.
#Carefully add the caustic solution to the bottle.
#Top up with 140ml de-ionised water to the bottle; the overall volume should be around 700ml altogether now.
#Shake the mixture up; it should go very dark...almost black.
#Put the bottle in a heat bath as before and soak for at least 1 hour, re-heating the pan if necessary.
#Shake the mixture occasionally to prevent settling.
===Step Six: Adding the Non-Polar Solvent===

#Measure out 50ml of naphtha (lighter fluid) and pour into the bottle.
#Lightly shake and roll the mixture in a 'figure of 8' fashion for 20-30 seconds.
#Unscrew the cap momentarily to release any pressure build-up then tighten again.
#Place back in a heat bath. (Heated pulls draw more product)
#Leave for a while until the naphtha separates again.
#Repeat this '''four times''' (shake/separate). This should take around 45 mins.
===Step Seven: Pulling===

#After the 4 x naphtha mixing, carefully suck out all the naphtha from the top layer with the turkey baster and squirt it into a glass roasting dish. This takes a bit of patience and skill. Be very careful not to disturb the basified mix (black layer) - Do not suck up any of the basified mix. If you can’t get the last bit, you can suck up the naphtha and a bit of the basified mix and place them in a drinks glass and wait a short time to separate again. It will be easier to see the layering and retrieve the last bit. Use an eyedropper if necessary.
#The first pulls may be heavily saturated and turn milky when it hits the dish: This is a good sign. Later pulls may look clear or yellowy, but this is fine.
#Tightly pull food wrap around the dish to form a sealed lid, airtight and watertight.
#Put the dish straight in the freezer.
#Repeat Steps Six and Seven '''four more times''', giving '''five pulls''' in total.
#Place the 'pulls’ in the freezer for 12-18 hours, ideally overnight. Do not disturb them, it’s tempting to look but try not to.
===Step Eight: After the Freeze===

#After 12/18 hours in the freezer, take out the dishes one by one and suck out or pour out the naphtha into your storage jam jar, or you can reuse for the next pull.
#Place the dishes upside down on a cloth for a few minutes to drain off excess naphtha.

''Speed is critical here''; you want to do this as fast as possible because the product will want to re-dissolve into any remaining naphtha at room temperature. Try not to get any water droplets in the dishes.
===Step Nine: Drying===

Straight away, place the dishes against a wall and blow a cold fan over them for at least 20 minutes.

You want to make sure '''ALL''' the naphtha (and any water drops) has evaporated. No smell of solvent should remain.
===Step Ten: Scraping===

It may look like "Snow Globe" crystals '''or''' (as shown) a layer of dried gooey oil with white dots (crystals) growing on top.

*Use a blade to scrape all the crystals/oil together.

*Scrape all the dishes; you may have some in the freezer for the next day, just scrape them after the drying.

*Place on a piece of paper for further drying.

At this point, after five pulls you have around 1g of product that is perfectly useable. Some even prefer the yellow (full spectrum) stuff, but if you want to purify further to get whiter, fluffier crystal...here’s how.
===Step Eleven: Re-X (The Extra Mile)===
====Required Equipment====
*A small glass or shot glass for separation.
*A small glass or small dish for crystallization in the freezer.
*A jam jar for heating the naphtha.

====Method====

#Place your product in the small shot glass.
#Put around 40/50ml of Naphtha in the jar.
#Next place the jar in a heat bath with a sieve in the pan, this stops it bubbling too hard. The lid should be just resting on the jar to prevent fumes from escaping. '''DO NOT''' screw the lid tight! The expanding fumes will create enough pressure to explode the jar. Heat and lighter fluid = '''DISASTER'''!
#Heat the pan until boiling for a few minutes to heat the naphtha in the jar.
#Turn off the heat and take out the jar (use gloves, it will be hot!) and pour the naphtha into the shot glass with the product.
#Everything will dissolve into the naphtha and you will see the impurities start to separate and fall to the bottom. You can rest the glass in the heat bath to help if needed.
#After a few minutes you will need to decant the saturated naphtha into the other glass leaving the impurities behind. Use an eyedropper if you have one or carefully pour it off. You can leave the impurities for the next time you Re-X or add a little more naphtha and try to get a little more.
#Now take your glass and put a tin foil lid on it to prevent dust and water vapour from getting in and put it in the fridge for 1 hour to cool.
#Put it in the freezer overnight.
#In the morning after 12/18 hours of Re-crystallising you will need to pour off the remaining naphtha and dry with a fan as before. It will take a lot of drying as the crystal layer will be deep and needs to be completely free of solvent.
#Scrape out and marvel at your handy work...Around 1g of fluffy product from 50g of bark.

==Additional Notes==
*Although I have included an acidic bath to begin with, this can be omitted and the extractor can go STB (Straight-To-Base) if they wish: Just start with the salt (Step Four) and make sure you end up with 700ml of liquid.
*You can also omit the heat baths if you want to do the Tek 'cold' although the yield maybe affected.
*This Tek should produce around 2% Yield depending on the bark used, that's 1g of product per 50g of bark which equated to around 30-40 hits; enough for any beginner!
*New research by users indicate that salt can be used (with good results) with Acacia Extractions inc. A/B (Just add salt at the Basification Stage (Step Five))

Info on salting: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32567 Salt]

== Footnotes ==
[1] See responses to the original thread where yields of up to 1g of DMT have been reported from 50g of MHRB. 
[2] As of 04/12/12: This information is subject to change.

Category:Extraction Tek

2012-12-04T21:24:36Z

Non Dua Natura: Added link to "Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek".

An Extraction Tek is a manual to extract certain chemicals from a given source.

To learn more about extractions in general and how they work, check the [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Where_to_start.3F FAQ], the [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Extraction_Overview extraction overview], as well as read a few different teks, even if you don't plan on doing them, because many of them explain the processes and why each step is done.

One does not need to be a chemist to perform an extraction. Don't worry about not understanding everything at first. Keep reading, inform yourself, take safety precautions, don't throw anything away before you're done with your extraction and don't consume anything you are not sure its clean.

{{Main Page/Portal|[[Image:Information.png]]|'''[[:Category:Extraction_Tek|Extraction Teks]]'''|
<table>
<tr>
<td>
==DMT==
===A/B===

* [[Lextek]]
* [[Marsofold's tek]]
* [[Shaggy's Jungle Tek]]
* [[The DMT Handbook]]
* [[Vovin's tek]]

===STB===

* [[Jorkest's D-Limonene and Fumaric Acid Approach]]
* [[Lazyman's tek]]
* [[Noman's tek]]
* [[STC - Dream Weaver's tek]]

===STB-A/B hybrid===

* [[BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_AB|BLAB]]
* [[PanoraMIX European AB]]
* [[Nontoxic_limonene_tek|SyZyGyPSy's Nontoxic Limomene Tek]]
* [[Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek]]

===Dry tek===

* [[Amor fati's Nontoxic Approach to Spice Extraction]]
* [[Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek]]

==MESCALINE==

===STB===

* [[LucidLemonade's sunflower oil mescaline extraction]]

===Crude extract===

* [[House's cacti preparation tek]]

===Dry tek===

* [[69ron's D-Limonene Mescaline Extraction]]

==BUFOTENINE==

===Dry tek===

* [[Jorkest's D-Limonene Bufotenine Extraction]]
* [[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=10071 No smell bufo extraction]]

===IPA extract===

* [[Bufotenine IPA Extraction and Bufojam Changa Tek]]

==HARMALAS==

===A/B===

* [[Harmalas Extraction and Separation Guide]]
* [[EASY Harmaloid Freebase TEK]]
* [[Easy Caapi Vine Alkaloid Extraction Guide]]
* [[Enoons Cold Caapi Tek]]
* [[The Tao of Rue Extraction]]

===Crude Manske (salt) Extract===

* [[Harmine Crystals from Syrian Rue]]

==LSA==

===IPA extract===

* [[PanoraMIX HBWR Extract]]

===Clean Extract===

* [[Kash's Advanced LSA Extraction]]

==SALVIA==

===Acetone extract===

* [[PanoraMIX salvia extact]]

</td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

[[Category:Tek]]

The DMT Handbook

2012-12-03T14:40:45Z

Non Dua Natura: Markup, produced a brief write-up for the handbook and added table of contents.

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of The DMT Handbook<ref>The DMT Handbook - Viracocha[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=28289][http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/File:The_DMT_Handbook_201208.pdf]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}

== The DMT Handbook ==
The DMT Handbook presents a step-by-step Acid/Base tek for the extraction of DMT using Acacia obtusifolia bark as the source material. It also includes detailed descriptions of the methods of purification and recrystallization, instructions on the production of DMT enhanced leaf (colloquially known as changa[1]) and details of various methods of ingestion.

It was originally developed from the LexTek method by Viracocha and uploaded to the site in December 2008 before being added to the wiki by Amor Fati in February 2009.
== Contents ==
Part 1: Extraction of DMT (Revised A/B)

Part 2: Methods of Purification (covers Recrystallisation and Crystal Growing)

Part 3: Salting (DMT base -> DMT Fumarate)

Part 4: Making DMT Enhanced Leaf (aka Changa)

Part 5: Methods of Ingestion (including The Machine, Pharmahuasca, etc..)
== Reference ==
<references/>

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Acid/Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]
== Footnote(s) ==
[1] The word "Changa" is more specifically used to describe an enhanced leaf combination using an MAOI, typically banisteriopsis caapi; this essentially produces a smokable ayahuasca although many users develop their own, often non-MAOI containing, blends, hence the use of the phrase "enhanced leaf".