DMT-Nexus Wiki - User contributions [en]

Harmalas Extraction and Separation Guide

2012-09-23T12:08:07Z

Globos: /* Step one */

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of Harmalas Extraction and Separation Guide<ref>Harmalas Extraction and Separation Guide
[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=7907]</ref>.}}

Here's how you can get pure harmala alkaloids with food-safe materials.

{{materials_list
|
* '''Syrian Rue''' (seeds)
|
* '''Water'''
|
* '''Salt''' (rock salt or iodine free table salt)
* '''Vinegar'''
* '''Sodium Carbonate''' (which can be made from sodium bicarb by putting in the oven on high for an hour or two)
* '''Sodium Bicarbonate''' (optional. Either you can make sodium carb from it if you dont have, or also it would make your life easier if you want to separate harmine from harmaline. If you only have sodium carb and want to separate harmine from harmaline you'll also need a pH meter)
* '''Lye''' (optional)

|
* '''Funnel'''
* '''Coffee Filters'''
* '''Cotton'''
* '''2 big pots''' for boiling and transfering liquids
* '''2 big jars''' for transfering liquids
}}

'''Resumed Process'''

A- Boil seeds 3x, filter (discard solids)

B- Reduce, filter (discard solids)

C- Add lye or sodium carbonate, filter (keep solids, keep liquid separately for retrieval of any lost alkaloids in the end).

D- Redissolve precipitated harmalas in warm acidified, filter (discard solids)

E- Saturate with salt, filter (keep solids, discard liquid)

For having purer product, redissolve in hot water, and repeat steps C, D and E a couple of times

F - Redissolve harmalas in hot water, add sodium carb, filter (keep solids, discard liquid).

G- (optional) Instead of precipitating all the alkaloids in step F, first add sodium
bicarbonate to precipitate harmine, then add sodium carbonate to precipitate
harmaline

[[File:1.jpg|thumb|500px]]
=== Step one ===
'''Grind rue seeds''' in blender or grinder (for the making of this guide 200 grams were used, but adjust to your desired quantity). If you freeze the seeds beforehand, they will be easier to grind.

=== Step two ===
'''Boil for half an hour in water with a little dash of vinegar.''' No need to be exact with amount of water, just dont use too little that it forms a thick syrup, better give a bit more water space for the alkaloids to move out to.

[[File:2.jpg|thumb]]
=== Step three ===
'''Pour the water out and keep it in a separate container, filtering in some very coarse filter''' such as very loosely-put cotton on the bottom of a
funnel or even better an old tshirt/cloth.

=== Step four ===
'''Put the seeds back in the pot, with more fresh water and dash of vinegar, and repeat steps 2-4 for a total of 3 or 4 times.'''

[[File:3.jpg|thumb|left|200px]]
=== Step five ===
'''Put together the liquids from all the boils and discard the solids'''

=== Step six ===
'''Filter in a funnel with cotton plug.''' Be patient, it may take some minutes. It goes faster when there is a lot of liquid in the funnel to press down on the rest. If its taking much too long, filter again once or twice through a coarser cloth filter or dont pack the cotton plug so tightly.

=== Step seven ===
'''Repeat step 6 packing the cotton tighter for removing finer particles'''

=== Step eight ===
'''Put filtered liquid back in the pot to reduce in low fire'''. If you had, say, 4 liters of filtered rue tea, reduce to 1l so that its more manageable later.

=== Step nine ===
'''After reducing, filter again''' like in steps 6 and 7 because more solid impurities will have appeared in the process of reducing.

=== Step ten ===

'''Slowly add sodium carbonate (or lye) to your harmala tea''' At first it might bubble from sodium carbonate reacting with acetic acid from vinegar until it neutralizes. Dont add too fast or it might bubble up and make a mess. After it stops bubbling, the colour starts changing as the pH rises and alkaloids start precipitating. Keep adding a bit of sodium carbonate even after colour stopped changing, just to make sure everything will precipitate. Dont worry if there's a lot of sodium carbonate because any excess will be removed in the next step. Let it rest for at least a couple of hours in the fridge, and then '''filter with a coffee filter'''.

This time you want to keep the alkaloids so you have to use a finer filter that wont let the alkaloids pass, like a cloth or cotton might. Therefore, has to be like a coffee filter and this step may be slower. Some shortcuts can be made which is to use a vacuum filtering system, and if one cannot afford a propper one, it can be improvised at very low cost, or adapting a paper filter in a french coffee press.

If you use lye, it will make for an easier filtering. If you dont want to use lye, use sodium carbonate.

[[File:8.jpg|thumb| harmala tea changing to lighter color as sodium carb is added]]

[[''' This is a mix of harmaline and harmine + some unwanted alkaloids, vasicine, deoxyvasicine and vasicinone. They will be removed later on during step 12''']]

=== Step eleven ===

'''Redissolve the Harmalas in hot water+vinegar (1:3 vinegar:water for example) '''

[[File:5.jpg|thumb|left]]

=== Step twelve ===

'''Filter a couple of times with coffee filter'''. Now there are less impurities, so using a fine filter like coffee filter, a few times, will help getting more and more rid of the finer impurities too. Your alkaloids should be dissolved in the liquid so any solid/color that stays in the filter is impurity. A coarse filter would not be enough, needs to be coffee filter or even two stacked up. The colours change beautifully from the yellowish salt precipitation to the clear reddish colour when redissolved.

=== Step thirteen ===

[[File:100_0234b.JPG|thumb|Decanting the rue tea after having added the salt, when one adds a lot (200g/l). Notice the salt that stays behind. When adding 100g/l the brew stays transparent after all salt is dissolved, and takes hours to start precipitating]]
'''Saturate the solution with salt.''' Have the tea boiling in a pot, and add 100-120g salt per liter of water. Let it cool down to room temperature slowly over the next couple of hours, and then you can stick it in the fridge. After 3-5 hours, the harmalas will have crystallized. If you add more salt (closer to 200g per liter), the harmalas precipitate faster but less pure and more powdery than crystally.

What is happening here is that with excess of salt, the harmalas get the Chlorine ions from salt and precipitate in the salt harmala form, harmine and harmaline HCl, which are insoluble in salt saturated water therefore precipitate. In this step one removes the uterotonic and possibly more toxic alkaloids vasicine and vasicinone, dangerous specially for pregnant women because they are abortifacient. Analysis done by Shulgin and others have shown salt-precipitated harmalas to be indeed free of these mentioned alkaloids.

[[File:4.jpg|thumb|Picture of the harmala salts precipitating in the
second or third round. Notice the lighter precipitating
alkaloids and the yellower liquid.]]

=== Step fourteen ===
'''Redissolve your harmala salts in hot water and repeat steps 10-13 a few times to make product cleaner'''. When repeating step 10, specially on the last run when you dont want any excess sodium carbonate, I recommend, instead of straight away putting the sodium carbonate in the tea, better heating some water to around 50c (around the limit where you can touch the water without burning yourself), and adding excess sodium carbonate, shaking/stirring, to make a saturated solution, and filtering/decanting away from excess sodium carbonate. Then, with this sodium carb solution, add it slowly to the solution of your dissolved harmalas.

I recommend repeating the steps 10-13 at least 3 times. I also recommend always doing in this alternating order, precipitating the salt, then redissolving in warm water, precipitating the base, redissolving in warm acidic water, repeat again, until its clean enough for you. In the first runs it is a darker brown, and then it gets progressively lighter yellower, like in these pictures:

<table><tr><td>[[Image:6.jpg|thumb|center|320px]]</td><td>[[Image:7.jpg|thumb|center|320px|Picture of harmala salts from salt precipitation getting lighter with repetitions. For pictures of how the harmala bases look, check lower down the guide]]</td></tr></table>

=== Step fifteen ===

'''Redissolve the Harmalas in hot water (no need for vinegar as salt-precipitated harmalas are very water soluble already) '''

[[''' For keeping the mixed harmalas, read step 16, for separating harmine and harmaline, go to step 17''']]

=== Step sixteen ===
'''Slowly add a warm sodium carbonate saturated solution to your dissolved harmalas''', let the harmalas precipitate over a couple of hours in the fridge, decant/filter with coffee filter, dry them up and you're ready to go :)

Or if you want to separate harmine from harmaline:

=== Step seventeen ===
'''This step is only if you want to separate harmine and harmaline'''. For this process we use the difference in their pKa, which is basically the measure that says at a certain pH, how many of its molecules will be freebase or in salt form. Harmine becomes a freebase in a pH where most harmaline is still salt, so one can separate them. If you have accurate pH meter, at pH 8,75, 92% of harmine present in rue will precipitate while only 8% of the harmaline present will precipitate. '''Add sodium carbonate saturated solution till pH 8,75 or add sodium bicarbonate saturated solution freely till it stops changing colour and a bit more, to precipitate harmine.''' Wait at least half an hour and filter with coffee filter, and add sodium carbonate freely to precipitate harmaline. Wait at least 2 hours and then filter with coffee filter to retrieve your harmaline. Note that depending on the original ratio of harmine and harmaline, there might be considerable amounts of harmine in your supposed harmaline. Check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=16743 this] thread for more info. If one really wants mostly pure harmaline, one can redissolve the harmaline and again precipitate with same selective pH, and the first precipitation will be most of the harmine and the second will be purer harmine. Dry and enjoy :)

The more one repeats the whole process, the cleaner the alkaloids get. I recommend repeating and alternating a few times between the salt precipitation
and the freebase precipitation, with more runs on the salt than on the freebase. The reason for this is because even at a high pH, it is possible that a small quantity of harmaline still does not precipitate, so every basing could lose a small amount of it. It might not be such a significant quantity but maybe if one repeated many many times one could lose some alkaloids. One could make for example 3x salt precipitation, 1x base, again 1 or 2x salt and 1 or 2x base. If one does this, this is what happens:

<table><tr><td>[[Image:9.jpg|thumb|center|320px|In the first two or so base precipitations the product browner, with maybe a dark
pink tone.]]</td><td>[[Image:10.jpg|thumb|center|320px|Then after repeating the clean ups it starts getting lighter tan.]]</td></tr></table>

And after one or another clean up run, the final products can be such as this:
<table><tr><td>[[Image:11.jpg|thumb|center|320px|Harmine]]</td><td>[[Image:12.jpg|thumb|center|320px|Harmaline]]</td></tr></table>

== Reference ==
<references/>

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Allies and Associated Alkaloids]]

Talk:69ron's D-Limonene Mescaline Extraction

2010-04-14T12:46:00Z

Globos:

I'll be updating this page this weekend.
--[[User:Digglover|Digglover]] 06:34, 2 April 2010 (UTC)

I've read this tek with great interest. I like it because, apart from being food grade all the way, the most dangerous chemical involved is the relatively "easy" Ca(OH)2 - no HCl or H2S04, which SWIM would never want to mess with.

SWIM has a few questions - maybe the points they rise could be incorporated into your new edited description of the tek.

1) BASIC MATERIAL
Drying the cactus takes time and could possibly waste some alkaloids (different reports about the issue of drying aren't consistent).
Do you think it could be possible to start with mashed fresh cactus, for example processing it in a blender? We're adding water back into the dried cactus anyway.
Another tek I've read starts with frozen cactus, which also can be ground in a mixer. This allegedly helps by breaking cell walls. What do you think about these alternatives?

2) FINAL WASH
Since MEK is not always easy to get by, it has been suggested replacing it with a mixture of d-limonene and ethanol. What would be the correct ratio? Would denaturated ethanol be OK?

3) CARBONATE
How/when does it make sense to add carbonated water (seltz) to the process?

SWIM can't post in the thread about the tek ( https://dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4002 ) because she's too much of a rookie, so she asked me to drop a note in the discussion page of the wiki.

[[User:Globos|Globos]] 09:34, 7 April 2010 (UTC)

I will edit and expand this wiki myself if I get any answers from 69ron or other knowledgeable users. Unfortunately I can't post in the forum threads (still too much of a newbie). [[User:Globos|Globos]] 12:46, 14 April 2010 (UTC)

69ron's D-Limonene Mescaline Extraction

2010-04-13T16:10:18Z

Globos: which vinegar? (added ideal pH of acetic acid solution)

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of 69ron's Non toxic food safe extraction of mescaline using d-limonene (orange oil) tek<ref>Non toxic food safe extraction of mescaline using d-limonene (orange oil)
Revision 1.221[http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4002]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}

== Non toxic food safe extraction of mescaline using d-limonene (orange oil) ==

=== Procedure ===

<table cellpadding="10">
<tr>
<td valign="top">
{{ProcedureMain
|Full range acetate extract from cactus using d-limonene
|Powderize your dried cactus. Mix 100 grams of dried powderized cactus with 25 grams of calcium hydroxide. Add 300 ml water to make it feel wet but not watery. Mix for about 5 minutes.
|Add 300 ml of d-limonene. Mix well. Let sit a few hours.
|Pour off the d-limonene through a filter.
{{ShowInfo/In Article|[[Image:Information.png]]|'''NOTE'''|
It's really cool if you use a French Coffee Press for this. Using a French Coffee Press you press the cactus mix and squeeze out the d-limonene to get every last drop of d-limonene out. Then filter it through a paper coffee filter.
|0px
|
}}
|Add 25 ml of vinegar to the d-limonene. Mix thoroughly.
|Separate the vinegar from the d-limonene (the vinegar is at the bottom, the d-limonene at the top). This vinegar will contain mescaline acetate. Evaporate your vinegar in a food dehydrator at 155 F to get waxy amber slightly impure mescaline acetate.
{{ShowInfo/In Article|[[Image:Information.png]]|'''NOTE'''|
To separate the vinegar from the d-limonene you can use a glass gravy separator or a separatory funnel. Seperatory funnels are considered laboratory glassware and are banned for individual use in some locations. A gravy separator works almost just as well and can be found at some local kitchenware shops.
|0px
|
}}
|Repeat steps 4 and 5 at least 2-3 times.
|Repeat steps 2 - 6 at least 2 times.
}}

==== Comments ====
The great thing about this tech is that is it 100% food grade and non-toxic. You can buy food grade calcium hydroxide at many places, it's often called hydrated lime and is used in cooking (making pickles, tortillas, etc.). Make sure to use non-toxic food grade d-limonene, that way if any d-limonene residue is left behind its safe to ingest it. Use regular white vinegar that is 5% acetic acid.

The result is a waxy amber colored slightly impure mescaline acetate approximately 40-95% pure. It might take a while to dry complete. Have patients.

SWIM has used this tech and got yields you cannot believe. Mescaline acetate is a little waxy, and tends to stick to things. It's texture is not as nice as mescaline HCl which is much more powdery in texture. However, SWIM has found that mescaline acetate is stronger by weight than mescaline HCl. He's not sure why. It should be weaker because it's heavier. I believe it absorbs faster and that's why it's stronger. It definitely comes on much quicker than mescaline HCl does.

The purity of this extraction is good enough for a great trip. You really don't need 99% purity. At about 90% pure, it's concentrated enough to put into gel tabs for a really nice convenient trip without all the bulk of the cactus. At this purity level mescaline acetate is still a little stronger than 99% pure white mescaline HCl. SWIM has both and has compared them many times already. The white 99% pure mescaline is prettier and is not waxy, so it's easier to deal with, but it's less potent with otherwise nearly identical effects.

Note that this tech was developed for San Pedro cactus but should work equally well for Peyote, Achuma, and Peruvian Torch.

The alkaloid extract produced from this tech is a mix of various alkaloids. The exact mix of mescaline to other alkaloids present depends on the type of cactus used as well as the individual specimen extracted. Mescaline acetate is a white free flowing powder. If the extract is brown or amber, or sticky, it's got a high number of non-mescaline alkaloids present. It can be used as is for the full spectrum effects, but if one wants a more pure product, the other alkaloids can be easily removed.

In this section we talk about a very simple technique for cleaning up the mescaline acetate by removing the non-mescaline alkaloids.

Mescaline acetate is insoluble in MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). MEK is a solvent that is found in fruit, similar to d-limonene. It's a normal part of the human diet, but only in very small amounts, like acetone. D-limonene is a much safer solvent, but MEK evaporates really fast so it's easily removed from the end product.

{{ ProcedureMain | Purification of Mescaline Acetate
| Dissolve 200 mg of impure sticky amber mescaline acetate in 2 ml of cold MEK.
{{ShowInfo/In Article|[[Image:Information.png]]|'''NOTE'''|
Cold MEK referring to Methyl Ethyl Ketone stored in the refrigerator or freezer (It will not freeze).
|0px
|
}}
| Smash the pure mescaline finely in the MEK. You want the mescaline acetate to form a fine powder at the bottom. Wait for a while until the mescaline acetate powder sinks to the bottom.
| Decant the MEK slowly, being careful not to disturb the mescaline acetate.
| Repeat with 2 ml more cold MEK.
| After the second wash and decant, dry the mescaline acetate with a fan. After all the smell of the MEK is gone, you're left with off-white nearly pure mescaline acetate.
}}

==== Purification Comments ====
The impurities removed by the MEK in some cases can be as much as 60% of the alkaloids extracted. The impurities tend to be much less for Peruvian Torch, and very high for Achuma and some varieties of San Pedro.

The amber impurities in the MEK can then be evaporated and used separately. They are typically very sticky and will not form a dry powder even after the MEK is completely evaporated. There are at least two active alkaloids present if the cactus used was San Pedro or Achuma. They are psychoactive, but very much unlike mescaline. San Pedro's impurities tend to be more sedating, similar to the effects of harmaline. Both San Pedro and Achuma have an impurity present that seems to have some MAOI activity which can be used to greatly enhance the effects of morning glory seeds, HWBR seeds, and ololiuqui seeds.

Pure mescaline acetate is a white free flowing powder with a slightly waxy texture very similar to freebase DMT. You'll find that it's much easier to manage after purifying it, being not nearly as waxy, and no longer sticky.

After purification, the experience is a much finer clearer experience far more resembling the effects of LSD, especially when taken with coffee. It is to some, far superior to the effects had from the full spectrum of cactus alkaloids.

For the tech to remain food grade, USP or FCC grade MEK must be used. If technical grade or ACS grade is used, it's no longer food grade.
</td>
<td valign="top">
{{Materials_list
|
* 100 grams of died cactus, preferably dried green outer flesh with the core, spines, and the thin waxy skin removed from it.
|
* 300 ml of any type of drinking water. Tap water is just fine.
* 900 ml of food grade non-toxic d-limonene (orange oil).
{{ShowInfo/In Article|[[Image:Alert.png]]|'''NOTE'''| <small>Note that some non-distilled d-limonene apparently contains traces of citric acid (less than 0.1%). Someone brought this up as a possible concern. The amount of citric acid present is too small to have any impact at all on the extraction process. We would need at least 10 grams of citric acid for there to be any impact at all on this extraction process. 0.1% of 1000 ml is only 1 gram, and most non-distilled d-limonene would contain much less that 0.1%. So don’t worry about traces of citric acid present in non-distilled d-limonene, its of no concern at all. Citric acid cannot be distilled, so distilled d-limonene cannot contain any at all.</small>
|0px
|
}}
|
* 25 grams of edible calcium hydroxide (hydrated lime).
* 150 -225 ml of vinegar (ideally, white vinegar, that is, acetic acid 5%).
|
* 3 coffee filters.
* A large container to hold the cactus mix. It's best to use glass or metal. If plastic is used, HDPE or PP is best. Do not use polystyrene because it dissolves in d-limonene.
* A dish for evaporating your final alkaloid extract in.
* A glass gravy separator or a separatory funnel (HDPE or PP plastic could be used instead of glass)
| Required for Purification:
* 4 mL of MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) per 200 mg of impure acetate alkaloids
}}
</td>
</tr>
</table>

=== Dosage Information ===

Here are the dosages as stated on Erowid for mescaline HCl. The dosage for mescaline acetate is nearly identical, but this extract is roughly 90% mescaline acetate plus some other active alkaloids so this dosage guide is fairly accurate for this extract.

* '''Threshold''' 100 mg
* '''Light''' 100 - 200 mg
* '''Common''' 200 - 300 mg
* '''Strong''' 300 - 500 mg
* '''Heavy''' 500 - 700 mg

SWIM does not recommend more than 200 mg for a first time experience. 100 mg is enough for SWIM to experience some minor psychedelic effects. Below that it’s mostly just a pleasant euphoric stimulant very similar to MDMA. SWIM can feel the effects of as little at 50 mg of mescaline, but it’s not psychedelic at all at that dose. For him, the psychedelic effects kick in at about 100 mg, but are mild. At 200 mg the psychedelic effects are very noticeable, but not too heavy. At 300 mg and above, it becomes quite a heavy experience from many people.

=== Dosage Using Gel Caps ===

The following shows how much dry mescaline acetate (extracted using this tech) will fit into the specified gel cap if tapped down tightly. Using this information you can measure doses without the use of a scale.

* 1 size "5" holds 65-75 mg
* 1 size "4" holds 110-120 mg
* 1 size "3" holds 165-175 mg
* 1 size "2" holds 205-215 mg
* 1 size "1" holds 280-290 mg
* 1 size "0" holds 390-400 mg
* 1 size "00" holds 540-550 mg
* 1 size "000" holds 790-800 mg

Most people find a size "5" to be very euphoric without psychedelic effects.

A size “3” is a good starter dose. That’s enough to know what mescaline is like without being blown away by it.

A size “0” and larger should be avoided unless you’re really comfortable with mescaline.

=== Pictures ===

Here's a picture of a glass gravy separator which can be used to separate the vinegar from the d-limonene. The top filter is removable.

To separate the d-limonene (orange oil) from the vinegar solution, simply pour the solution into the gravy separator (with the filter removed) and wait for it to settle into two separate layers. If any d-limonene gets into the pouring spout, just pour that out and put it back into the gravy separator. Then pour out the lower vinegar layer. The d-limonene stays on top of the vinegar and won’t come out of the gravy separator until almost all the vinegar is out. It takes a little practice to get the handle of using it, but once you do it works really well.

[[Image:Gravy_Separator_1.jpg]]
[[Image:Gravy_Separator_2.jpg]]

Here are some pictures of what the resulting crystals look like up close. The first is from the center of SWIM's evaporation dish where the white waxy mescaline acetate crystals are about 95% pure. The second picture is from the perimeter of his evaporation dish were the mescaline acetate is about 70-80% pure. You can see amber colored alkaloids surrounding the mescaline acetate crystals making them appear amber. At least one of these other alkaloids is psychoactive.

(NOTE: these photos were NOT taken by me.)

[[Image:mesc_001.jpg]]
[[Image:mesc_002.jpg]]

== Pure white mescaline HCl from cactus using d-limonene ==

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This section is a transcription of 69ron's Pure white mescaline HCl from cactus using d-limonene tek<ref>Pure white mescaline HCl from cactus using d-limonene[http://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4001]</ref>. The content is to remain accurate as such.}}

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|The most current TEK for pure mescaline is the cold MEK wash transcribed above.}}

{{ProcedureMain
|Pure white mescaline HCl from cactus using d-limonene
|Powderize your cactus. Mix 100 grams of bark with 25 grams of calcium hydroxide. Add 300 ml water to make it feel wet but not watery. Mix for about 5 minutes.
|Add 300 ml of d-limonene. Mix well. Let sit a few hours.
|Pour off the d-limonene through a filter.
|Add 25 ml of water with 5 ml of 10% HCl solution to the d-limonene. Mix thoroughly.
{{ShowInfo/In Article|[[Image:Alert.png]]|'''NOTE'''|
DO NOT USE CONCENTRATED HYDROCHLORIC ACID. IT MUST BE DILUTED AS SPECIFIED OR A BUNCH OF JUNK WILL PRECIPITATE OUT OF THE D-LIMONENE.
|0px
|
}}
|Separate the water from the d-limonene (the water is at the bottom, the d-limonene at the top). This water will contain mescaline HCl. Evaporate your water in a food dehydrator at 155 F to get sticky brown impure mescaline HCl.
|Repeat steps 4 and 5 at least 2-3 times,
|Repeat steps 2 - 6 at least 2 times.
|remarks=
Ok, now you have a bunch of sticky brown impure mescaline. You first wash it with acetone about 2 times. You use about 20 ml of acetone for each wash. With the acetone covering the mescaline, you small the mescaline and much as you can. You want to powderize it in the acetone. Wait for all the particles to settle down and then carefully decant your acetone so that none of the mescaline is decanted with the acetone. Repeat it with 20 ml more acetone.<br />Ok, at this point the mescaline is usually very light tan and it's difficult to get it pure white with more acetone washes. So we now wash with 99% isopropyl alcohol one time. We use about 20 ml. It must be 99% isopropyl alcohol. Pour it over your light tan crystals and mix it. Let all the pieces settle down. Now carefully decant the IPA leaving behind pure white mescaline HCl.
}}

== Reference ==
<references/>

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Mescaline]]
[[Category:Limtek]]

Talk:69ron's D-Limonene Mescaline Extraction

2010-04-07T09:34:12Z

Globos:

Talk:69ron's D-Limonene Mescaline Extraction

2010-04-06T09:20:39Z

Globos:

Talk:69ron's D-Limonene Mescaline Extraction

2010-04-04T18:20:24Z

Globos:

Talk:69ron's D-Limonene Mescaline Extraction

2010-04-04T13:29:52Z

Globos:

Talk:69ron's D-Limonene Mescaline Extraction

2010-04-04T13:29:29Z

Globos:

Talk:69ron's D-Limonene Mescaline Extraction

2010-04-04T13:29:18Z

Globos: