DMT-Nexus Wiki - User contributions [en]

Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek

2011-10-27T14:54:29Z

Digi123: /* About the 2 teks */

This tek is not Q21Q21's original idea but rather a culmination of many people's ideas. The tek is written in first person but they are Q21Q21's words. (Q21Q21 being a fictional alien entity... with internet access)'''
 This tek was inspired by: '''Blueskine''' whose idea for freebasing acetates with heat changed my life! '''Noman''' whose tek on erowid inspired my first extraction '''69ron''' and his mescaline tek that taught me the power of lime '''amor_fati''' whose tek inspired me to try a vinegar step and made the tek over 10x faster '''SyZyGyPSy''' was the first person to report using limonene to extract spice '''Chronic''' who's method of drying of the mush to a crumbly powder solved the lost-solvent issue '''Anyone whose post was read and forgot who posted it, you all helped.''' '''Lye''' which is so toxic and nasty.

_____________________
== Introduction ==

'''As a comprehensive guide there's lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.'''

'''If you would like to get right into the "What do I do?" then you can start by reading the Super-short Compressed Tek. (Then the full tek later)
'''
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_1 Tek 1 (Uses xylene/d-limonene)]
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_2 Tek 2 (Uses naptha)]

== Background Information ==

=== The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark ===

While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis (abbreviated as MHRB)

[http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/1329/post37091208434539.jpg [[Image:post37091208434539.th.jpg|post37091208434539.th.jpg]]]
(whole MHRB)

Mimosa Hostilis is a shrub that contains '''N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' and 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids (and some TINY amounts of NMT) in its root-bark . 

For information about where to purchase this bark (I recommend pre-powdered MHRB). [https://dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=39 Visit the Suppliers sub-forum] 
Make sure to do a thorough search before posting a new thread please.

=== Info about the 3 types of DMT contained in MHRB ===

Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information. '''Methods:''' [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Pharmahuasca Pharmahuasca], [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Amor_fati%27s_Guide_to_Mucosahuasca Mucosahuasca] or [https://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17873 Smoking]

''' White N-N-DMT'''
 (Click the arrow beside the thumbnail to view the full size image, same with all thumbnails)
 [http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/8642/crystalsy.jpg [[Image:crystalsy.th.jpg|crystalsy.th.jpg]]] (DMT I extracted from Tek 2)

'''White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' is pure DMT. MHRB usually contains about 1% of it's weight in '''White DMT''', though yields from extractions of less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.

In the past the ultimate goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just '''White DMT''' in it. 

'''Red "Jungle" DMT'''

[http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/2127/sany0069.jpg [[Image:sany0069.th.jpg|sany0069.th.jpg]]] Red Jungle DMT freebase

"Jungle" DMT is also contained in the bark but cannot be extracted into crystals like '''White DMT'''

Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produces effects similar in duration and effects to '''White DMT'''. 
I strongly believe the yellow DMT which MANY people prefer to pure '''White DMT''' is in fact small amounts of Jungle DMT mixed with the '''White DMT''' 
An [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=156691 analysis] was done on this Jungle DMT and it is mostly (95%) DMT. Nonetheless I and many others still believe Jungle DMT produces noticeably different effects.

'''Yellow DMT-N-oxide'''

[http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/5061/sany0049v.jpg [[Image:sany0049v.th.jpg|sany0049v.th.jpg]]] Crystallized DMT-N-oxide made with peroxide and white DMT

DMT-N-oxide was previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, but in fact Oxides seems unlikely to be present in the extracted DMT in significant amounts at all. (as I mentioned I believe that yellow is Jungle DMT)
 I and many others have smoked DMT which has been in ambient air for months/years without any significant loss of potency. 
Considering my tests (using the Oxides in the picture) suggest Oxides are about 1/3 or less potent than '''white DMT''' or jungle DMT when smoked (waiting on replication of this test to be positive though) then I conclude Oxides are insignificant and need not be worried about.

'''Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product'''

[http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/2485/jimjamv.jpg [[Image:jimjamv.th.jpg|jimjamv.th.jpg]]]

If all the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum product called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during the tek.

Jimjam is considered by many to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though yields from extractions of more than 2% are not unheard of.

DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like Jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries, make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.

=== About the 2 teks ===
 [http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/493/untitlged.jpg [[Image:untitlged.th.jpg|untitlged.th.jpg]]] Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naptha they will be referred to as "the solvent"

In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used. '''Tek 2''' uses naptha (lighter fluid) while
Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner)

Naptha needs to be heated to dissolve or else it won't dissolve anything but it's unique solubility properties allow for '''White DMT''' to be crystallized out when it is cooled in a freezer.
'''Tek 2''' thus involves a heating-step and a freezer-step that Tek 1 does not have. However Naptha does not dissolve Jungle DMT very well so the extracted product will be almost entirely '''white DMT''' and leave the Jungle DMT in the MHRB.

D-Limonene and Xylene dissolve both '''white DMT''' and Jungle DMT at room temperate so Tek 1 doesn't need a heating-step. Because of that it will yield full-spectrum product Jimjam DMT but since it is soluble, even when the solvent is cold, freezer precipitation doesn't work, so one of many different methods can be used to isolate the Jimjam DMT from the solvent.

Useful to know: If d-limonene is used, the tek will be

''<nowiki>*100% food-safe*</nowiki>'' 

'''For a first-timer [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Tek_2:_The_Fluffy_White_Funfest Tek 2] may be better advised than Tek 1 cause it is a lot harder to mess up. (You can do a Tek 1 pull later on a '''Tek 2'' extraction later)
That being said both teks are quite simple, comparable to baking a cake, and will work extremely well for extracting the DMT using no lye (drain cleaner).'''

=== A little info on Lime ===
 [http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/6726/97710677.jpg [[Image:97710677.th.jpg|97710677.th.jpg]]] '''The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is a replacement for lye which is extremely caustic and toxic.'''

'''THIS TEK WILL NOT WORK WITH LYE, IT IS ONLY MADE FOR LIME'''

Known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.

Until recently using caustic and toxic '''Sodium Hydroxide''' (lye, drain cleaner) was the only option as the base when extracting DMT. Lye is very potentially dangerous

"Solid sodium hydroxide or solutions of sodium hydroxide may cause chemical burns, permanent injury or scarring if it contacts unprotected human, or other animal, tissue. It may cause blindness if it contacts the eye. Protective equipment such as rubber gloves, safety clothing and eye protection should always be used when handling the material or its solutions...

...It also produces heat when reacted with acids. Sodium hydroxide is corrosive to some metals, e.g. aluminum, which produces flammable hydrogen gas on contact."
From [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_hydroxide Wikipedia]

These Teks instead use '''Lime'''. '''Lime''' is a powerful base that is actually food safe. It is powerfully alkaline so take care not to get it in your eyes or inhale it and wash your hands after touching it.

There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities. Here are some tips: Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums. So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores, local availability varies all the way from none-to-lots depending on country/location If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.

If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally, This site is great . [http://www.canningpantry.com/pickling-lime.html Mrs Wages Pickling lime] That brand is known to be excellent but you may find better deals by googling "buy pickling lime online" (without quotes) .

'''The effort used to get the lime will far pay off with the ease, speed, efficiency AND SAFETY of the tek.'''

== Tek 1: The Jimjam party ==

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:''' 
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD"'''

Extraction Specific: 30g or more Mimosa Hostilis root bark (MHRB) 250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH) 30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2) 125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark) Some Seal-able and shakable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel one Turkey baster (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one Stove or Kettle one Pot or Pan

Useful tools one or more Funnels one Rice cooker one Baking pan/large surface area container one or more razor blades/scrapers one blender (unless you buy, pre-powdered bark)

Tincture tools one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml) one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses one spoon one lighter/candle/heat source

=== Preparation: ===
 [http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/8108/sany0106d.jpg [[Image:sany0106d.th.jpg|sany0106d.th.jpg]]]

'''Step 0:''' If your MHRB isn't powdered, use a blender to cut it into powder/fibers as small as possible

Note:Household blenders tend to blend bark to fibres rather than powders bark so the the consistency may be different than the descriptions in the tek.

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

Chopsticks/Spoon: Chopsticks work best for 100g or less MHRB while a spoon works better for more than 100g.

Your container, 1000ml per 100g of MHRB would be a good general number, since this is a STIRRING tek instead of a SHAKING tek there can be spashing if the container is too small

Have nearby: vinegar, hot/boiling water, lime.

Lastly have everything else needed for the tek available and have the tek open an a computer for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts [https://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification: ===
 [http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/6431/acidv.jpg [[Image:acidv.th.jpg|acidv.th.jpg]]]
'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary'''''

Note 1:this step does not need to be too "exact"

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 30g-50g is recommended)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Then slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other. The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes, add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (It will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB)

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes. (Longer won't hurt though) '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''

Note 2: If you were to choose not the acidification step, thus doing a STB lime tek, it would work... but would take periodic stirring over a minimum of 2 days before a significant yield will be achieve and several days more for the rest

The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the tek to be utilized.

=== Basification: ===
 [http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/4921/sany0015.jpg [[Image:sany0015.th.jpg|sany0015.th.jpg]]]
'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB) (More lime will not hurt.)

Adding it bit-by-bit and mixing will be easier to mix, but you can dump it all in if you want. (For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g)

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure-white lime is mix and there is no more red. Add very small amounts of water if needed to achieve a moist and consistent mixture.

Note 1: The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

'''The ideal consistency is not super exact. There are 2 main options for consistency. Consistency 1 will work 100% as well as Consistency 2, it may absorb more solvent than Consistency 2. '''

There will be inevitable solvent loss regardless but my estimate is anywhere from 25%-40% reduction in solvent loss using Consistency 2 which in a 100g MHRB extraction might be 50-80ml less solvent lost. If solvent supplies are plentiful then there should be no problem using Consistency 1 or Consistency 2, remember that they can be RE-USED many times.

Consistency 1: Add water (if needed) to make the mix look like anywhere from thick oatmeal too kinda like thick pea-soup. Both will work fine. If it is like tomato soup that's too soupy! 

'''Step 3a:''' '''if it is too dry''' add some tap water a TINY TINY splash at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it is JUST moistened throughout

'''Step 3b:''' '''if it is too wet''' add more lime a little bit at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it thickens and dries to the right consistency

Consistency 2: Either let the mix dry until crumbly (Like the top of an apple crisp) or dry it in the oven (in an oven-safe container!) at 95C or the lowest setting until crumbly. 
You don't want it bone-dry because it will absorb more solvent than Consistency 1, if it does get bone-dry then just add some water to make it crumbly.

=== Non-polar Wash: ===
 [http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/4669/bowlx.jpg [[Image:bowlx.th.jpg|bowlx.th.jpg]]]
Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted '''''

Note 1: The tek is designed to do each step directly after another without any waiting periods except those that are steps.

The first pull if done immediately after getting the lime-bark to one of the consistencies shouldould yield anywhere from 10%-35% (in my experience.) If the first pull is done after 6-8 hours however it will likely yield 25%-60%. 
2 pulls done around 24 hours and 48 hours (or later) should be enough to get 80%-90% of the DMT (In my experience). 
Pulls after that tend to be rather small but I highly recommends doing pulls at 1 week and another at 2 or 3 weeks to get all the DMT possible.

'''Step 1:''' Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g) This can be done immediately following the addition of the lime or anywhere up to several days later. Note 2: Bark will slowly absorb a noticeable portion of the solvent, this is common.

'''Step 2:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mush as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

Mix it well several times over 10-20 minutes. That is all that is needed to dissolve the DMT-freebase in to the solvent. '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''

I like to think of using the non-polar solvent like using water to dissolve some salt. Though the salt will not instantaneously become saturated with salt, it will in a few minutes. Same with the solvent, it is the bark and lime that works for hours, not the solvent.

'''Step 3:''' Pour the solvent from the bark into your seal-able and shakable container through a funnel with a cotton ball (to filter bark particles which cause emulsions)
You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent. Pouring usually gets 90% or more.

It will always require several pulls to get all the DMT. There are 2 ways you can approach the multiple pulls
 '''Step 4a:''' While the first batch of solvent is being salted you can add new solvent and do another "pull", repeating the non-polar wash.

'''Step 4b:''' Wait until you are done the removing the DMT from the solvent then re-use with only the single batch of solvent. (recommended)

=== Alternative Next-Steps ===
 '''Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method.
There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB (Step 4)] by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead. (Step 6c should be able to be done without using sodium carbonate but rather just dissolving the gooey-acetates in acetone according to my tests)

↓My method is below↓'''

=== Acid wash/Salting: ===
 [http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/56/sany0058j.jpg [[Image:sany0058j.th.jpg|sany0058j.th.jpg]]]
'''''This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.'''''

'''Step 1:''' Pour some vinegar into the container with the solvent. About 1 shot-glass full.

'''Step 2:''' Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefers to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. There is sometimes a small bubbly layer of emulsion that take a long time to resolve.

Agitate it and the top layer, the solvent, will start to cloud with DMT-acetate floating around. over a period of at least 2 minutes, for the process to complete. Don't leave it for over 10 minutes because after a while oils and gunk can migrate to the vinegar/water '''Step 3:''' Use a turkey baster to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container. If you don't get all the vinegar don't worry.

'''Step 4:'''Next add a shot or two of hot tap water to the solvent, and agitate it for about a minute.

'''Step 5:''' Use a turkey baster again to suck out the water and combine it with the vinegar.

=== Evaporation: ===
 [http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/7954/colorty.jpg [[Image:Colorty.th.jpg|Colorty.th.jpg]]]
'''The "easy way" to do this would be to simply evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smoke-able product, just note that this product will be very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air'''

The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all the DMT and as long as it is sealed it maintains a consistent concentration making dosing a very simple matter of 4 drops, 7 drops, 11 drops, etc

'''''This step is just to concentrate the alkaloids down to a dense and more-workable product'''''

There are many methods to do this step but I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar-saltings into one cause it is makes the house smell very vinegar-y and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times.

My currently used method is simple.
'''Step 1:''' Filter the vinegar and pour it in a pot.

'''Step 2:''' Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 75-100ml

'''Step 3:''' Lower the heat to medium and watch it carefully until it is around 20-30ml

'''Step 4:''' Use a dropper or baster and move the liquid to a smaller container (like in the picture) and evaporate it down until it looks similar to the picture.

Note: There will likely be some particles in the liquid, I used a cotton ball stuffed in a 5ml dropper to filter the tiny amount of liquid. But you could just leave them, they should just sink to the bottom.

The tincture can vary largely depending on your technique, it can be anywhere from 1-8mg per drop (20mg to 175mg per ml), 4-7 per drop is common after this step. The maximum concentration so that it is still a thin water-like liquid is about 8-9mg per drop.

The more concentrated the tincture, the quicker it is to prepare for smoking, but precision goes down. IE: if a tincture is 8mg per drop then one can't make a 20mg dose, only 16mg or 24mg while 5mg per drop can make 15mg, 20mg or 25mg. But 3 drops will evaporate faster than 5. My tinctures are 4-5mg per drop and work very well for speedy evaporation and accurate dosing.

Note: if the result of the evaporations are extremely small or nothing at all (Smaller than match-head of goo after evaporating the vinegar from pulls done >2 hours after adding the lime) then check out [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Common_issues.2FTroubleshooting Common issues/Troubleshooting] because that should not happen.

=== Measuring the tincture: ===
 Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.

Quantitative Concentration (numerical):

-drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster -put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) '''NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!''' -Once it no longer flows when held upright the element is turned off and let to sit until cool enought to handle then the coaster removed. -goo is scraped up with a razor and measured using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.

Divide the number by 10 and the concentration per drop is calculated. Drops don't vary too much but assume an error of up to +/- 5% to be safe ie: 8 drops @ 5mg per drop = 38-42mg

Note: don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change

Qualitative Concentration (subjective): This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca Use the method below to evaporate 2 drops of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. (See next section for instructions) If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 3 drops, then 4, 5, Etc. until adequate effects are achieved. Concetration will then be *number* drops = Mild *number* drops = Strong *number* drops = Breakthrough *number* drops = ????

If the tincture is not at a satisfactory concentration then you can concentrate it down some more.

=== Freebasing for Smoking: ===
 [http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/9735/spoona.jpg [[Image:spoona.th.jpg|spoona.th.jpg]]]
'''''DMT-acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and because of that when heated to 90C-100C the acetate vaporizes off and leaves freebase DMT, this is the goal of the following. This method can take as little as 30-45 seconds and from experience it is faster and as precise and accurate or more than using an expensive .001g scale to dose by weight'''''

Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!

'''Basically all that is needed is to evaporate the tincture at 90-100C until there is no vinegar left, this produces freebase jimjam DMT.'''

There are 2 methods I've successfully used many times

'''1:''' Using a spoon with a lighter or candle underneath seems to be the fastest and easiest method. As much as it might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is very effective and is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.

'''2:''' A FLAT glass coaster works in combination with CAREFUL indirect heating from beneath with either a lighter or put on a stove element on MIN. (using this method the end product can be scraped up with a razor)

'''In each method the process is the same. ''' The liquid will evaporate with steam, possibly some bubbling and strong smell of vinegar. Once the water is close to gone watch it closely and don't heat constantly, only in bursts until the bubbling stops and/or it looks like all the water is gone. You just want it to LOOK like a goo, the smell isn't the best indicator because it will continue to smell of vinegar for a minute after freebasing, then it will smell like DMT and often faintly of vinegar.

If you see smoke (not steam) STOP. Don't be too worried because the window of temperature is not that narrow between freebasing and vaporizing, '''I've NEVER seen smoke or lost a noticeable amount of product in the process.'''

It can be scraped up using the copper from [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/The_Machine "the machine"] or a tiny bit of rolling paper for smoking it from. Even a finger can be used to collect it and transfer it to the smoking device (Caution: hot!). Sometimes it is too liquidy immediately after freebasing and need to cool slightly before scraping.

=== Smoking: ===
 Unless you think you know everything about smoking DMT it is highly advised that you click [https://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17873 this link] and read the page.

I remember when I extracted DMT for the very first time and '''wasted''' 10-15 doses using improper smoking methods and '''he believes this page can help reduce waste, frustration and redundant "how do I smoke" threads'''

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 1 ===
You need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 vMHRB
 Vinegar
 D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)

First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 3:4 ratio lime to bark. IE: 75g or more lime for 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick pea soup. Not too wet and not bone dry so you see dry lime all over.
Let it sit for about an hour, stirring periodically.

Add about 1.5 to 2ml solvent for every 1g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent.
Stir the solvent around all the bark. Stir periodically over 5-10 minutes.

Gently pour off the Solvent (might need to use coffee filter) into a separate solvent-safe container.

There are many ways to finish this tek. Next step is [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Alternative_Next-Steps here]

----

== Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest ==

=== About Naptha ===
 Naptha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though it's toxicity is quite benign. '''Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.''' The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naptha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.

Plus 2 things: 1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple hours 2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.

Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.

If you are in the US then VM+P Naptha is your choice. If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices. If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it: 1.Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs) 2.Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.

(what your product will look like If you follow the tek) [http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/8343/whitejn.jpg [[Image:whitejn.th.jpg|whitejn.th.jpg]]]

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:'''
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the naptha and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD"'''

 Two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naptha won't dissolve/degrade) one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best) one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation one freezer 30g or more Mimosa Hostilis root bark (MHRB) 50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH) Some Lime Ca(OH)2 100ml or more Naptha one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)

Useful tools a few Playing cards one or more razor blades/scrapers Some coffee filters one blender (unless you buy, pre-powdered bark)

=== Preparation: ===
 [http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/8108/sany0106d.jpg [[Image:sany0106d.th.jpg|sany0106d.th.jpg]]]

'''Step 0:''' If your MHRB isn't powdered, use a blender to cut it into powder/fibers as small as possible

Note:Household blenders tend to blend bark to fibres rather than powders bark so the the consistency may be different than the descriptions.

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

Chopsticks/Spoon: Chopsticks work best for 100g or less MHRB while a spoon works better for more than 100g.

Your container, 1000ml per 100g of MHRB would be a good general number, since this is a STIRRING tek instead of a SHAKING tek there can be spashing if the container is too small

Have nearby: vinegar, hot/boiling water, lime.

Lastly have everything else needed for the tek available and have the tek open an a computer for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts [https://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification: ===
 [http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/6431/acidv.jpg [[Image:acidv.th.jpg|acidv.th.jpg]]]
'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary'''''

Note 1:this step does not need to be too "exact"

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-500g powdered MHRB and place in your container.

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Then slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other. (Approximately: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB)

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes. (Longer won't hurt though) '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''

Note 2: If you were to choose not the acidification step, thus doing a STB lime tek, it would work... but would take periodic stirring over a minimum of 2 days before a significant yield will be achieve and several days more for the rest

The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the tek to be utilized.

=== Basification: ===
 [http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/4921/sany0015.jpg [[Image:sany0015.th.jpg|sany0015.th.jpg]]]
'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB) (More lime will not hurt.)

Adding it bit-by-bit and mixing will be easier to mix, but you can dump it all in if you want. (For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g)

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure-white lime is mix and there is no more red. Add very small amounts of water if needed to achieve a moist and consistent mixture.

Note 1: The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

'''The ideal consistency is not super exact. There are 2 main options for consistency. Consistency 1 will work 100% as well as Consistency 2, it may absorb more solvent than Consistency 2. '''

There will be inevitable solvent loss regardless but my estimate is anywhere from 25%-40% reduction in solvent loss using Consistency 2 which in a 100g MHRB extraction might be 50-80ml less solvent lost. If solvent supplies are plentiful then there should be no problem using Consistency 1 or Consistency 2, remember that they can be RE-USED many times.

Consistency 1: Add water (if needed) to make the mix look like anywhere from thick oatmeal too kinda like thick pea-soup. Both will work fine. If it is like tomato soup that's too soupy! 

'''Step 3a:''' '''if it is too dry''' add some tap water a TINY TINY splash at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it is JUST moistened throughout

'''Step 3b:''' '''if it is too wet''' add more lime a little bit at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it thickens and dries to the right consistency

Consistency 2: Either let the mix dry until crumbly (Like the top of an apple crisp) or dry it in the oven (in an oven-safe container!) at 95C or the lowest setting until crumbly. 
You don't want it bone-dry because it will absorb more solvent than Consistency 1, if it does get bone-dry then just add some water to make it crumbly.

=== Non-Polar Wash: ===
 [http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/3479/naptha.jpg [[Image:naptha.th.jpg|naptha.th.jpg]]]
'''Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naptha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is is essential if a pure product is to be extracted'''

CAUTION: Naptha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do this in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan) Also if it is left for a several hours the naptha will all be gone

Note 1: The tek is designed to do each step directly after another without any waiting periods except those that are steps.

The first pull if done immediately after getting the lime-bark to one of the consistencies shouldould yield anywhere from 10%-35% (in my experience.) If the first pull is done after 6-8 hours however it will likely yield 25%-60%. 
2 pulls done around 24 hours and 48 hours (or later) should be enough to get 80%-90% of the DMT (In my experience). 
Pulls after that tend to be rather small but I highly recommend doing pulls at 1 week and another at 2 or 3 weeks to get all the DMT possible.

'''Step 1:''' Put the top/smaller bowl into the bottom/larger bowl and add enough boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the top bowl, either that or just until the top bowl floats. This is very simply to warm the naptha indirectly and safely.

'''Step 2:''' Add enough naptha so you can see it on the sides. It should be 1ml naptha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naptha or more for 100g MHRB) The naptha should stay completely separate from the bark and remain transparent.

<nowiki>*The naptha does NOT need to be hot, only warm (feel the bowl, not the naptha)*</nowiki>

'''Step 3:''' Stir the bark around with the naptha thoroughly and periodically until it is warmed from the water underneath. Once warm 5-10 minutes is all that is needed. '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''

I like to think of using the non-polar solvent like using water to dissolve some salt. Though the salt will not instantaneously become saturated with salt, it will in a few minutes. Same with the solvent, it is the bark and lime that works for hours, not the solvent.

'''Step 4:''' Pour off the naptha from the bark-goo and into <nowiki>*your precipitation container*</nowiki> to get naptha out pour off as much as you can by tilting the bowl, this will get at least 90% of the naptha out and there is no need to get 100% of it. <nowiki>*make sure to wipe the bottom of the container dry before pouring or else water will drip into your naptha*</nowiki>

If after this step the naptha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry. The naptha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow unlike the deep-yellows and sometimes browns you may see in STB teks.

<nowiki>*your precipitation container*</nowiki> I find it easiest to work with a small glass baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals. You can use any naptha-safe container though.

=== Recrystallization: ===
 [http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/8646/spices.jpg [[Image:spices.th.jpg|spices.th.jpg]]]
'''This step works on the principal that naptha can dissolve DMT-freebase quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naptha with DMT-freebase dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.'''

'''Step 1:''' Just pop the naptha straight into the freezer. You can do a recrystallization later for larger crystals, but for the initial step it is best to just put the naptha in the freezer right away.

Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but expect your freezer to smell like naptha for a day or two whether you do or not. I usually to leave it uncovered.

It will always require several pulls to get all the DMT-freebase. There are 2 ways you can approach the multiple pulls 
'''Step 2a:''' While the first batch of naptha is in the freezer you can add new naptha and do another "pull", repeating the non-polar wash.

'''Step 2b:''' Wait until the mix has precipitated all the crystals and re-use only the single batch of naptha.

In either case it will require 2-3 pulls to get about 90% of the DMT, likely over 5 pulls to get over 98%.

'''Step 3:''' Keep the naptha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming. If the naptha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT-freebase molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.

'''Step 4:''' Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take it out and pour off the naptha. Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors, fumes) place to lean the container against, the excess naptha will drip off and evaporate in a couple hours. Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, usually just SLOWLY pouring the naptha off works, you may need to pour it through a coffee filter to get all the crystals though.

Note 1: If the first 2 pulls don't cloud or precipitate crystals after 8-12 hours then check something in the extraction did not work correctly. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Common_issues.2FTroubleshooting Common issues/Troubleshooting] because that should not happen.

Note 2:there may be a small film underneath the crystals. The film is soluble in vinegar and I am pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT

Once it no longer smells like naptha the DMT-freebase is ready.

=== Storage: ===
 You can either scrape the DMT up and store in a mini-ziplock bag or any other small sealable container as is. A playing card folded with a crease down the middle works very well for moving the crystals around.

The other option is to dissolve it in vinegar as a tincture. (Most will probably keep it as is, but the tincture method is worth mentioning)

I personally prefer the tincture because it is easier to measure, keep, transport, smoke and it can be filtered for the utmost purity. If a tincture is to be made then all you need to do is dissolve everything in the precipitation container in a minimal amount of vinegar, the liquid will need to be evaporated down until it starts getting deep-yellow. There is a lot more information on tinctures in Tek 1

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 2 ===
You need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 Naptha
 Freezer

First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 3:4 ratio lime to bark. IE: 75g or more lime for 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistancy of cookie dough to thick pea soup. Not too wet and not bone dry so you see dry lime all over.
Let it sit for about an hour, stirring periodically.

Make sure the bark mush is warm. Cold naptha is very poor at dissolving DMT. You can use anything gentle to heat, hot water bath or crock pot on LOW. Naptha is FLAMABLE so do not use anything with a flame or an element on anything but LOW.
Add about 1ml naptha for every 1g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush.
Stir the naptha around all the bark. Stir periodically over 5-10 minutes.

Gently pour off the naptha (might need to use coffee filter) into a container which will go in the freezer. I use an 8 inch pyrex cake pan.
If the naptha is at a low level in the container you may want to wrap it in saran wrap to prevent evaporation

In a couple hours the naptha should get cloudy. Slowly over 8-24 hours the DMT will precipitate out of the naptha and form crystals on the container.
When the naptha is no longer cloudy then gently and but quickly pour the naptha off the crystals (may need coffee filter).
Put the container on it's side to allow the naptha to evaporate. Watch the sun because the crystals will melt into a goo at about 40C or so.

When the crystals no longer smell of naptha they are ready to smoke or whatever. Keep in a dime bag or something.

== Common issues/Troubleshooting ==
 '''If the first 2 pulls (or pulls >2 hours after adding lime) don't seem to be yielding much or any DMT then there are a few questions you can ask to find the issue: '''
 '''Question 1:''' Was your lime Calcium Hydroxide (Ca(OH)2)? 
'''Solution 1:''' If the answer was "no" (look up MSDS) then real lime will need to be added in the amount mentioned in the tek as well as enough water to create the correct consistency.
 This error can cause the tek to become a STB rather than an A/B. Lime STB teks take 36-48 hours for the solvent to pull a significant amount of DMT so that may end up being what happens.

'''Questions 2:''' Was the mush mixed thoroughly enough? Was it too dry?
 '''Solutions 2:''' A little more water or mixing if done quickly may immediately fix the problem but may create a STB situation metioned in Solution 1.

'''Questions 3:'''(Tek 2 only) Is your Naptha suitable for use in freezer-precipitating DMT? (less likely) Did you use way too much?
 '''Solutions 3:''' If No to the first, look up the MSDS on the naptha or look up previous forum posts (avoid making entirely new post if possible).
 If No to the 2nd you may need to evaporate a portion of the naptha (not with heat, use fan to speed up room-temp evaporation) I've never had to do that though.

'''Question 4''': Was the vinegar added regular white vinegar suitable for this extraction?
 '''Solution 4''':If no, this will cause a STB situation mentioned in Solution 1

'''Question 5:''' Is your MHRB actually MHRB which contains DMT?
 '''Solution 5:''' Buy some real MHRB. Though with all the sources reviewed in the supplier forum I have never seen this as a problem.
 '''Good luck in all your life's endeavors! '''

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Limtek]]
[[Category:Acid/Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]

Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek

2011-10-27T14:52:16Z

Digi123: /* About the 2 teks */

This tek is not Q21Q21's original idea but rather a culmination of many people's ideas. The tek is written in first person but they are Q21Q21's words. (Q21Q21 being a fictional alien entity... with internet access)'''
 This tek was inspired by: '''Blueskine''' whose idea for freebasing acetates with heat changed my life! '''Noman''' whose tek on erowid inspired my first extraction '''69ron''' and his mescaline tek that taught me the power of lime '''amor_fati''' whose tek inspired me to try a vinegar step and made the tek over 10x faster '''SyZyGyPSy''' was the first person to report using limonene to extract spice '''Chronic''' who's method of drying of the mush to a crumbly powder solved the lost-solvent issue '''Anyone whose post was read and forgot who posted it, you all helped.''' '''Lye''' which is so toxic and nasty.

_____________________
== Introduction ==

'''As a comprehensive guide there's lots of information other than just instructions on how to extract DMT but is nonetheless very useful for understanding the process. It is the goal of the tek that the reader will be able to understand the reasoning and general chemical processes behind each step while the tek is being performed.'''

'''If you would like to get right into the "What do I do?" then you can start by reading the Super-short Compressed Tek. (Then the full tek later)
'''
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_1 Tek 1 (Uses xylene/d-limonene)]
 [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Super-short_Compressed_Tek_2 Tek 2 (Uses naptha)]

== Background Information ==

=== The DMT plant - Mimosa hostilis root bark ===

While DMT is contained in many plants and animals the plant most commonly used for extractions and the one to be used for this tek is Mimosa Hostilis (abbreviated as MHRB)

[http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/1329/post37091208434539.jpg [[Image:post37091208434539.th.jpg|post37091208434539.th.jpg]]]
(whole MHRB)

Mimosa Hostilis is a shrub that contains '''N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' and 2 other similarly psychoactive alkaloids (and some TINY amounts of NMT) in its root-bark . 

For information about where to purchase this bark (I recommend pre-powdered MHRB). [https://dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=39 Visit the Suppliers sub-forum] 
Make sure to do a thorough search before posting a new thread please.

=== Info about the 3 types of DMT contained in MHRB ===

Note: All 3 forms of DMT can be administered in several ways which may be mentioned in passing. If you don't know the terms then these links will direct you towards the information. '''Methods:''' [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Pharmahuasca Pharmahuasca], [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Amor_fati%27s_Guide_to_Mucosahuasca Mucosahuasca] or [https://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17873 Smoking]

''' White N-N-DMT'''
 (Click the arrow beside the thumbnail to view the full size image, same with all thumbnails)
 [http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/8642/crystalsy.jpg [[Image:crystalsy.th.jpg|crystalsy.th.jpg]]] (DMT I extracted from Tek 2)

'''White N-N-Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)''' is pure DMT. MHRB usually contains about 1% of it's weight in '''White DMT''', though yields from extractions of less than 0.5% and up to 2% are not unheard of.

In the past the ultimate goal of most extractions was to get these pure white crystals, the bark however has more than just '''White DMT''' in it. 

'''Red "Jungle" DMT'''

[http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/2127/sany0069.jpg [[Image:sany0069.th.jpg|sany0069.th.jpg]]] Red Jungle DMT freebase

"Jungle" DMT is also contained in the bark but cannot be extracted into crystals like '''White DMT'''

Jungle DMT when smoked or consumed in pharmahuasca produces effects similar in duration and effects to '''White DMT'''. 
I strongly believe the yellow DMT which MANY people prefer to pure '''White DMT''' is in fact small amounts of Jungle DMT mixed with the '''White DMT''' 
An [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=156691 analysis] was done on this Jungle DMT and it is mostly (95%) DMT. Nonetheless I and many others still believe Jungle DMT produces noticeably different effects.

'''Yellow DMT-N-oxide'''

[http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/5061/sany0049v.jpg [[Image:sany0049v.th.jpg|sany0049v.th.jpg]]] Crystallized DMT-N-oxide made with peroxide and white DMT

DMT-N-oxide was previously thought to be the reason for the yellow in "impure" DMT, but in fact Oxides seems unlikely to be present in the extracted DMT in significant amounts at all. (as I mentioned I believe that yellow is Jungle DMT)
 I and many others have smoked DMT which has been in ambient air for months/years without any significant loss of potency. 
Considering my tests (using the Oxides in the picture) suggest Oxides are about 1/3 or less potent than '''white DMT''' or jungle DMT when smoked (waiting on replication of this test to be positive though) then I conclude Oxides are insignificant and need not be worried about.

'''Jimjam - The Full Spectrum Product'''

[http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/2485/jimjamv.jpg [[Image:jimjamv.th.jpg|jimjamv.th.jpg]]]

If all the alkaloids are together then the product is a full-spectrum product called "Jimjam". This term will be used a lot during the tek.

Jimjam is considered by many to give the full effect of the MHRB. This mix is usually 1-2% of the weight of the MHRB though yields from extractions of more than 2% are not unheard of.

DANGER: DMT and anything containing DMT (like Jimjam DMT) is illegal to possess in most countries, make sure you know your country's laws before considering any extractions.

=== About the 2 teks ===
 [http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/493/untitlged.jpg [[Image:untitlged.th.jpg|untitlged.th.jpg]]] Often instead of saying d-limonene, xylene or naptha they will be referred to as "the solvent"

In each tek many of the processes are the same but the one big difference is the non-polar solvent used. '''Tek 2''' uses naptha (lighter fluid) while
Tek 1 uses either xylene (paint thinner) or d-limonene (a citrus-derived cleaner)

Naptha needs to be heated to dissolve or else it won't dissolve anything but it's unique solubility properties allow for '''White DMT''' to be crystallized out when it is cooled in a freezer.
'''Tek 2''' thus involves a heating-step and a freezer-step that Tek 1 does not have. However Naptha does not dissolve Jungle DMT very well so the extracted product will be almost entirely '''white DMT''' and leave the Jungle DMT in the MHRB.

D-Limonene and Xylene dissolve both '''white DMT''' and Jungle DMT at room temperate so Tek 1 doesn't need a heating-step. Because of that it will yield full-spectrum product Jimjam DMT but since it is are soluble even when the solvent is cold freezer precipitation doesn't work so one of many different methods can be used to isolate the Jimjam DMT from the solvent.

Useful to know: If d-limonene is used, the tek will be

''<nowiki>*100% food-safe*</nowiki>'' 

'''For a first-timer [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Tek_2:_The_Fluffy_White_Funfest Tek 2] may be better advised than Tek 1 cause it is a lot harder to mess up. (You can do a Tek 1 pull later on a '''Tek 2'' extraction later)
That being said both teks are quite simple, comparable to baking a care, and will work extremely well for extracting the DMT using no lye (drain cleaner).'''

=== A little info on Lime ===
 [http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/6726/97710677.jpg [[Image:97710677.th.jpg|97710677.th.jpg]]] '''The star of the show (teks) is lime . This food-safe base is a replacement for lye which is extremely caustic and toxic.'''

'''THIS TEK WILL NOT WORK WITH LYE, IT IS ONLY MADE FOR LIME'''

Known as:Lime/Pickling Lime/Hydrated Lime/Cal/Ca(OH)2/Calcium Hydroxide/Kalkwasser.

Until recently using caustic and toxic '''Sodium Hydroxide''' (lye, drain cleaner) was the only option as the base when extracting DMT. Lye is very potentially dangerous

"Solid sodium hydroxide or solutions of sodium hydroxide may cause chemical burns, permanent injury or scarring if it contacts unprotected human, or other animal, tissue. It may cause blindness if it contacts the eye. Protective equipment such as rubber gloves, safety clothing and eye protection should always be used when handling the material or its solutions...

...It also produces heat when reacted with acids. Sodium hydroxide is corrosive to some metals, e.g. aluminum, which produces flammable hydrogen gas on contact."
From [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_hydroxide Wikipedia]

These Teks instead use '''Lime'''. '''Lime''' is a powerful base that is actually food safe. It is powerfully alkaline so take care not to get it in your eyes or inhale it and wash your hands after touching it.

There have often been difficulties obtaining lime, though it is cheap and available in large quantities. Here are some tips: Lime is used in gardening, pickling of foods and also aquariums. So the best places to look for/call up are grocery stores, ethnic grocery stores or aquarium supply stores, local availability varies all the way from none-to-lots depending on country/location If those stores don't have it then one could search a hardware store though often it is only available in LARGE (like 5kg) quantities and many "gardening lime" products are not Ca(OH)2 so make sure to look up a MSDS on a product to be sure.

If no pure/satisfactory product can be obtained locally, This site is great . [http://www.canningpantry.com/pickling-lime.html Mrs Wages Pickling lime] That brand is known to be excellent but you may find better deals by googling "buy pickling lime online" (without quotes) .

'''The effort used to get the lime will far pay off with the ease, speed, efficiency AND SAFETY of the tek.'''

== Tek 1: The Jimjam party ==

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:''' 
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the d-limonene/xylene and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD"'''

Extraction Specific: 30g or more Mimosa Hostilis root bark (MHRB) 250ml or more 5% White vinegar (CH3COOH) 30g or more Lime (Ca(OH)2) 125ml or more d-Limonene or Xylene one Container, 1000ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one or more chopsticks or wooden spoon (to stir the gooey bark) Some Seal-able and shakable container, 500ml or larger (HDPE2 plastic or glass) or a Separatory funnel one Turkey baster (HDPE2 plastic, glass, metal. Something limonene/xylene won't dissolve) one Stove or Kettle one Pot or Pan

Useful tools one or more Funnels one Rice cooker one Baking pan/large surface area container one or more razor blades/scrapers one blender (unless you buy, pre-powdered bark)

Tincture tools one or more Medicine droppers. 5ml and/or 1ml one or more Tincture bottles (1,2,4 or 8 dram) or very small airtight containers (10-20ml) one or more Sauce cups/shot glasses one spoon one lighter/candle/heat source

=== Preparation: ===
 [http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/8108/sany0106d.jpg [[Image:sany0106d.th.jpg|sany0106d.th.jpg]]]

'''Step 0:''' If your MHRB isn't powdered, use a blender to cut it into powder/fibers as small as possible

Note:Household blenders tend to blend bark to fibres rather than powders bark so the the consistency may be different than the descriptions in the tek.

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

Chopsticks/Spoon: Chopsticks work best for 100g or less MHRB while a spoon works better for more than 100g.

Your container, 1000ml per 100g of MHRB would be a good general number, since this is a STIRRING tek instead of a SHAKING tek there can be spashing if the container is too small

Have nearby: vinegar, hot/boiling water, lime.

Lastly have everything else needed for the tek available and have the tek open an a computer for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts [https://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification: ===
 [http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/6431/acidv.jpg [[Image:acidv.th.jpg|acidv.th.jpg]]]
'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary'''''

Note 1:this step does not need to be too "exact"

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-250g powdered MHRB and place in your container. (For first-timers 30g-50g is recommended)

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Then slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other. The bark will absorb some of the water over the first few minutes, add more warm/hot water to get it wet enough again as needed (It will be about: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB)

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes. (Longer won't hurt though) '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''

Note 2: If you were to choose not the acidification step, thus doing a STB lime tek, it would work... but would take periodic stirring over a minimum of 2 days before a significant yield will be achieve and several days more for the rest

The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the tek to be utilized.

=== Basification: ===
 [http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/4921/sany0015.jpg [[Image:sany0015.th.jpg|sany0015.th.jpg]]]
'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB) (More lime will not hurt.)

Adding it bit-by-bit and mixing will be easier to mix, but you can dump it all in if you want. (For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g)

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure-white lime is mix and there is no more red. Add very small amounts of water if needed to achieve a moist and consistent mixture.

Note 1: The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

'''The ideal consistency is not super exact. There are 2 main options for consistency. Consistency 1 will work 100% as well as Consistency 2, it may absorb more solvent than Consistency 2. '''

There will be inevitable solvent loss regardless but my estimate is anywhere from 25%-40% reduction in solvent loss using Consistency 2 which in a 100g MHRB extraction might be 50-80ml less solvent lost. If solvent supplies are plentiful then there should be no problem using Consistency 1 or Consistency 2, remember that they can be RE-USED many times.

Consistency 1: Add water (if needed) to make the mix look like anywhere from thick oatmeal too kinda like thick pea-soup. Both will work fine. If it is like tomato soup that's too soupy! 

'''Step 3a:''' '''if it is too dry''' add some tap water a TINY TINY splash at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it is JUST moistened throughout

'''Step 3b:''' '''if it is too wet''' add more lime a little bit at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it thickens and dries to the right consistency

Consistency 2: Either let the mix dry until crumbly (Like the top of an apple crisp) or dry it in the oven (in an oven-safe container!) at 95C or the lowest setting until crumbly. 
You don't want it bone-dry because it will absorb more solvent than Consistency 1, if it does get bone-dry then just add some water to make it crumbly.

=== Non-polar Wash: ===
 [http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/4669/bowlx.jpg [[Image:bowlx.th.jpg|bowlx.th.jpg]]]
Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step is used a non-polar solvent to dissolve the Jimjam DMT from the basified bark, this separation is essential if a pure product is to be extracted '''''

Note 1: The tek is designed to do each step directly after another without any waiting periods except those that are steps.

The first pull if done immediately after getting the lime-bark to one of the consistencies shouldould yield anywhere from 10%-35% (in my experience.) If the first pull is done after 6-8 hours however it will likely yield 25%-60%. 
2 pulls done around 24 hours and 48 hours (or later) should be enough to get 80%-90% of the DMT (In my experience). 
Pulls after that tend to be rather small but I highly recommends doing pulls at 1 week and another at 2 or 3 weeks to get all the DMT possible.

'''Step 1:''' Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g) This can be done immediately following the addition of the lime or anywhere up to several days later. Note 2: Bark will slowly absorb a noticeable portion of the solvent, this is common.

'''Step 2:''' Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mush as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent.

Mix it well several times over 10-20 minutes. That is all that is needed to dissolve the DMT-freebase in to the solvent. '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''

I like to think of using the non-polar solvent like using water to dissolve some salt. Though the salt will not instantaneously become saturated with salt, it will in a few minutes. Same with the solvent, it is the bark and lime that works for hours, not the solvent.

'''Step 3:''' Pour the solvent from the bark into your seal-able and shakable container through a funnel with a cotton ball (to filter bark particles which cause emulsions)
You needn't be too fussy about getting 100% of the solvent. Pouring usually gets 90% or more.

It will always require several pulls to get all the DMT. There are 2 ways you can approach the multiple pulls
 '''Step 4a:''' While the first batch of solvent is being salted you can add new solvent and do another "pull", repeating the non-polar wash.

'''Step 4b:''' Wait until you are done the removing the DMT from the solvent then re-use with only the single batch of solvent. (recommended)

=== Alternative Next-Steps ===
 '''Now that you have a solvent containing dissolved DMT there are several methods to complete the tek besides my method.
There are 3 alternative methods to get the DMT out of the solvent, Each is explained in detail in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB (Step 4)] by all means give them a look and if you prefer them then do them instead. (Step 6c should be able to be done without using sodium carbonate but rather just dissolving the gooey-acetates in acetone according to my tests)

↓My method is below↓'''

=== Acid wash/Salting: ===
 [http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/56/sany0058j.jpg [[Image:sany0058j.th.jpg|sany0058j.th.jpg]]]
'''''This step uses vinegar (acetic acid) to convert the DMT-freebase in the solvent to DMT-acetate which are water soluble, but not soluble in d-limonene or xylene. It is called "salting" and is basically just getting the DMT out of the solvent.'''''

'''Step 1:''' Pour some vinegar into the container with the solvent. About 1 shot-glass full.

'''Step 2:''' Seal the container and agitate it a bunch. I prefers to use the turning-the-doorknob method to agitate as shaking sometimes causes leakage. There is sometimes a small bubbly layer of emulsion that take a long time to resolve.

Agitate it and the top layer, the solvent, will start to cloud with DMT-acetate floating around. over a period of at least 2 minutes, for the process to complete. Don't leave it for over 10 minutes because after a while oils and gunk can migrate to the vinegar/water '''Step 3:''' Use a turkey baster to suck out the vinegar (bottom layer) and transfer it to a separate clean container. If you don't get all the vinegar don't worry.

'''Step 4:'''Next add a shot or two of hot tap water to the solvent, and agitate it for about a minute.

'''Step 5:''' Use a turkey baster again to suck out the water and combine it with the vinegar.

=== Evaporation: ===
 [http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/7954/colorty.jpg [[Image:Colorty.th.jpg|Colorty.th.jpg]]]
'''The "easy way" to do this would be to simply evaporate the vinegar completely until it no longer smells of vinegar and you have a very pure smoke-able product, just note that this product will be very difficult to measure and transport and must be kept in a sealed container or else it will absorb dirt/dust from the air'''

The method explained here is to make a tincture which can be made without too much hassle and once made it safely and cleanly contains all the DMT and as long as it is sealed it maintains a consistent concentration making dosing a very simple matter of 4 drops, 7 drops, 11 drops, etc

'''''This step is just to concentrate the alkaloids down to a dense and more-workable product'''''

There are many methods to do this step but I HIGHLY recommend combining several batches of vinegar-saltings into one cause it is makes the house smell very vinegar-y and it is much more time/energy consuming to do many times.

My currently used method is simple.
'''Step 1:''' Filter the vinegar and pour it in a pot.

'''Step 2:''' Boil the vinegar down on max until it is around 75-100ml

'''Step 3:''' Lower the heat to medium and watch it carefully until it is around 20-30ml

'''Step 4:''' Use a dropper or baster and move the liquid to a smaller container (like in the picture) and evaporate it down until it looks similar to the picture.

Note: There will likely be some particles in the liquid, I used a cotton ball stuffed in a 5ml dropper to filter the tiny amount of liquid. But you could just leave them, they should just sink to the bottom.

The tincture can vary largely depending on your technique, it can be anywhere from 1-8mg per drop (20mg to 175mg per ml), 4-7 per drop is common after this step. The maximum concentration so that it is still a thin water-like liquid is about 8-9mg per drop.

The more concentrated the tincture, the quicker it is to prepare for smoking, but precision goes down. IE: if a tincture is 8mg per drop then one can't make a 20mg dose, only 16mg or 24mg while 5mg per drop can make 15mg, 20mg or 25mg. But 3 drops will evaporate faster than 5. My tinctures are 4-5mg per drop and work very well for speedy evaporation and accurate dosing.

Note: if the result of the evaporations are extremely small or nothing at all (Smaller than match-head of goo after evaporating the vinegar from pulls done >2 hours after adding the lime) then check out [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Common_issues.2FTroubleshooting Common issues/Troubleshooting] because that should not happen.

=== Measuring the tincture: ===
 Before using the tincture it is recommended to establish either a quantitative or qualitative measurement of the concentration then labeling it with the concentration.

Quantitative Concentration (numerical):

-drop 10 drops of the vinegar tincture onto a flat glass coaster -put it on MIN on top of an electric element (95-115C) '''NOT TOO HOT OR IT WILL SHATTER!''' -Once it no longer flows when held upright the element is turned off and let to sit until cool enought to handle then the coaster removed. -goo is scraped up with a razor and measured using a 0.01g or 0.001g scale.

Divide the number by 10 and the concentration per drop is calculated. Drops don't vary too much but assume an error of up to +/- 5% to be safe ie: 8 drops @ 5mg per drop = 38-42mg

Note: don't mix the goo back into the tincture because the concentration will change

Qualitative Concentration (subjective): This method is much more advised for smoking and not recommended for pharmahuasca/mucosahuasca Use the method below to evaporate 2 drops of the tincture and test the effects of the product when smoked. (See next section for instructions) If the effects are not as strong as desired then try 3 drops, then 4, 5, Etc. until adequate effects are achieved. Concetration will then be *number* drops = Mild *number* drops = Strong *number* drops = Breakthrough *number* drops = ????

If the tincture is not at a satisfactory concentration then you can concentrate it down some more.

=== Freebasing for Smoking: ===
 [http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/9735/spoona.jpg [[Image:spoona.th.jpg|spoona.th.jpg]]]
'''''DMT-acetate is a somewhat unstable acid-salt and because of that when heated to 90C-100C the acetate vaporizes off and leaves freebase DMT, this is the goal of the following. This method can take as little as 30-45 seconds and from experience it is faster and as precise and accurate or more than using an expensive .001g scale to dose by weight'''''

Caution: Hot surfaces, be careful not to burn yourself when doing this!

'''Basically all that is needed is to evaporate the tincture at 90-100C until there is no vinegar left, this produces freebase jimjam DMT.'''

There are 2 methods I've successfully used many times

'''1:''' Using a spoon with a lighter or candle underneath seems to be the fastest and easiest method. As much as it might remind someone of a heroin addict preparing his smack for injection it is very effective and is just vinegar being evaporated in a quick manner.

'''2:''' A FLAT glass coaster works in combination with CAREFUL indirect heating from beneath with either a lighter or put on a stove element on MIN. (using this method the end product can be scraped up with a razor)

'''In each method the process is the same. ''' The liquid will evaporate with steam, possibly some bubbling and strong smell of vinegar. Once the water is close to gone watch it closely and don't heat constantly, only in bursts until the bubbling stops and/or it looks like all the water is gone. You just want it to LOOK like a goo, the smell isn't the best indicator because it will continue to smell of vinegar for a minute after freebasing, then it will smell like DMT and often faintly of vinegar.

If you see smoke (not steam) STOP. Don't be too worried because the window of temperature is not that narrow between freebasing and vaporizing, '''I've NEVER seen smoke or lost a noticeable amount of product in the process.'''

It can be scraped up using the copper from [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/The_Machine "the machine"] or a tiny bit of rolling paper for smoking it from. Even a finger can be used to collect it and transfer it to the smoking device (Caution: hot!). Sometimes it is too liquidy immediately after freebasing and need to cool slightly before scraping.

=== Smoking: ===
 Unless you think you know everything about smoking DMT it is highly advised that you click [https://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17873 this link] and read the page.

I remember when I extracted DMT for the very first time and '''wasted''' 10-15 doses using improper smoking methods and '''he believes this page can help reduce waste, frustration and redundant "how do I smoke" threads'''

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 1 ===
You need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 vMHRB
 Vinegar
 D-limonene or Xylene (the solvent)

First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 3:4 ratio lime to bark. IE: 75g or more lime for 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistency of cookie dough to thick pea soup. Not too wet and not bone dry so you see dry lime all over.
Let it sit for about an hour, stirring periodically.

Add about 1.5 to 2ml solvent for every 1g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush. The mush will absorb a portion of the solvent.
Stir the solvent around all the bark. Stir periodically over 5-10 minutes.

Gently pour off the Solvent (might need to use coffee filter) into a separate solvent-safe container.

There are many ways to finish this tek. Next step is [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Alternative_Next-Steps here]

----

== Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest ==

=== About Naptha ===
 Naptha petroleum is a non-polar solvent and the only non-food-safe ingredient, though it's toxicity is quite benign. '''Assuming it is always used with ample ventilation and isn't spilled all over you.''' The LD50 (amount needed to consume for 50% of subjects to die) for naptha is stated as 8000-20000mg/Kg while the LD50 for DMT is 60-110mg/Kg. Heck the LD50 for Vitamin A is 1510-2570mg/Kg and Vitamin B is 560mg/Kg.

Plus 2 things: 1. It evaporates cleanly without a trace in a couple hours 2. When burned it produces only WATER and CARBON DIOXIDE, that is why using it as a lighter fuel is safe.

Anyway, it is simply lighter fluid which many houses have around already, but you need one that doesn't have any nasty additives.

If you are in the US then VM+P Naptha is your choice. If you are in Canada then Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or Escort Camp Fuel are your choices. If you can't find either then buy some lighter fluid and test it: 1.Pour a little on a surface (I use blank CDs) 2.Wait an hour or two for it to evaporate. If it smells or looks like anything other than a blank and clean/dry surface then the lighter fluid SHOULDN'T be used.

(what your product will look like If you follow the tek) [http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/8343/whitejn.jpg [[Image:whitejn.th.jpg|whitejn.th.jpg]]]

=== Materials required: ===
 '''IMPORTANT:'''
''''''The lime, the vinegar, the naptha and MHRB'''''' MUST MUST MUST be correct and suitable for use in this tek.
The vast majority or problems or complete failures in this tek and others as well are simply due to questionable or incorrect materials.
This tek is very easy and I tell people who ask about it '''"It is just as easy as it sounds. If your materials are good then your end product will be VERY GOOD"'''

 Two Containers that fit one in another (HDPE plastic, glass, metal, something naptha won't dissolve/degrade) one Electric Kettle or Stove w/ pot (kettle is best) one or more baking pans/wide mouth containers for freezer precipitation one freezer 30g or more Mimosa Hostilis root bark (MHRB) 50ml or more 5% White Vinegar (CH3COOH) Some Lime Ca(OH)2 100ml or more Naptha one or more chopsticks or wooden spoons(to stir the gooey bark)

Useful tools a few Playing cards one or more razor blades/scrapers Some coffee filters one blender (unless you buy, pre-powdered bark)

=== Preparation: ===
 [http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/8108/sany0106d.jpg [[Image:sany0106d.th.jpg|sany0106d.th.jpg]]]

'''Step 0:''' If your MHRB isn't powdered, use a blender to cut it into powder/fibers as small as possible

Note:Household blenders tend to blend bark to fibres rather than powders bark so the the consistency may be different than the descriptions.

'''Step 1:''' Prepare your supplies

Chopsticks/Spoon: Chopsticks work best for 100g or less MHRB while a spoon works better for more than 100g.

Your container, 1000ml per 100g of MHRB would be a good general number, since this is a STIRRING tek instead of a SHAKING tek there can be spashing if the container is too small

Have nearby: vinegar, hot/boiling water, lime.

Lastly have everything else needed for the tek available and have the tek open an a computer for quick reference.

Caution: Using plastic containers or any plastic in the extraction creates risk either small plastic residues in the product or even a completely messed up end product (This is not an exaggeration, read these posts [https://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17878 #1], [https://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=17921 #2], [https://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8384 #3])
HDPE2 (Most dense non-clear plastics, labeled as such on the bottom) should be safe to use but but glass would be the safest choice.

=== Acidification: ===
 [http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/6431/acidv.jpg [[Image:acidv.th.jpg|acidv.th.jpg]]]
'''''This step utilizes the vinegar (acetic acid) to change the DMT-tannate molecules contained in the MHRB into DMT-acetate and in the process dissolve them into the surrounding vinegar. The PH of the dilute vinegar is ~2.5 so the mix will probably be around that but checking the PH shouldn't be necessary'''''

Note 1:this step does not need to be too "exact"

'''Step 1:''' Take 30g-500g powdered MHRB and place in your container.

'''Step 2:''' Add vinegar to the bark and stir until the bark starts forming clumps. Add enough so most of the bark is wet, red and clumpy.

'''Step 3:''' Then slowly and while stirring add near-boiling tap water. Add and stir until it is wet enough to flow when you tip the container to one side or the other. (Approximately: 100ml vinegar and 100ml near-boiling water for 100g MHRB)

'''Step 4:''' Stir several times as the bark is let to sit for 20-40 minutes. (Longer won't hurt though) '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''

Note 2: If you were to choose not the acidification step, thus doing a STB lime tek, it would work... but would take periodic stirring over a minimum of 2 days before a significant yield will be achieve and several days more for the rest

The vinegar step is essential for the swiftness of the tek to be utilized.

=== Basification: ===
 [http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/4921/sany0015.jpg [[Image:sany0015.th.jpg|sany0015.th.jpg]]]
'''''This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary'''''

'''MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!'''

'''Step 1:''' Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB) (More lime will not hurt.)

Adding it bit-by-bit and mixing will be easier to mix, but you can dump it all in if you want. (For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g)

'''Step 2:''' Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure-white lime is mix and there is no more red. Add very small amounts of water if needed to achieve a moist and consistent mixture.

Note 1: The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing that is fine. It is completely normal.

'''Step 3:''' Create the right consistency. 

'''The ideal consistency is not super exact. There are 2 main options for consistency. Consistency 1 will work 100% as well as Consistency 2, it may absorb more solvent than Consistency 2. '''

There will be inevitable solvent loss regardless but my estimate is anywhere from 25%-40% reduction in solvent loss using Consistency 2 which in a 100g MHRB extraction might be 50-80ml less solvent lost. If solvent supplies are plentiful then there should be no problem using Consistency 1 or Consistency 2, remember that they can be RE-USED many times.

Consistency 1: Add water (if needed) to make the mix look like anywhere from thick oatmeal too kinda like thick pea-soup. Both will work fine. If it is like tomato soup that's too soupy! 

'''Step 3a:''' '''if it is too dry''' add some tap water a TINY TINY splash at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it is JUST moistened throughout

'''Step 3b:''' '''if it is too wet''' add more lime a little bit at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it thickens and dries to the right consistency

Consistency 2: Either let the mix dry until crumbly (Like the top of an apple crisp) or dry it in the oven (in an oven-safe container!) at 95C or the lowest setting until crumbly. 
You don't want it bone-dry because it will absorb more solvent than Consistency 1, if it does get bone-dry then just add some water to make it crumbly.

=== Non-Polar Wash: ===
 [http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/3479/naptha.jpg [[Image:naptha.th.jpg|naptha.th.jpg]]]
'''Each time this step is done it is called "a pull" and the step uses naptha to dissolve the DMT freebase from the bark-mush. This separation is is essential if a pure product is to be extracted'''

CAUTION: Naptha fumes are toxic and it evaporates very quickly, so do this in a ventilated area (window open and/or a fan) Also if it is left for a several hours the naptha will all be gone

Note 1: The tek is designed to do each step directly after another without any waiting periods except those that are steps.

The first pull if done immediately after getting the lime-bark to one of the consistencies shouldould yield anywhere from 10%-35% (in my experience.) If the first pull is done after 6-8 hours however it will likely yield 25%-60%. 
2 pulls done around 24 hours and 48 hours (or later) should be enough to get 80%-90% of the DMT (In my experience). 
Pulls after that tend to be rather small but I highly recommend doing pulls at 1 week and another at 2 or 3 weeks to get all the DMT possible.

'''Step 1:''' Put the top/smaller bowl into the bottom/larger bowl and add enough boiling water to the BOTTOM bowl to match the level of the bark in the top bowl, either that or just until the top bowl floats. This is very simply to warm the naptha indirectly and safely.

'''Step 2:''' Add enough naptha so you can see it on the sides. It should be 1ml naptha per 1g of bark or more (100ml naptha or more for 100g MHRB) The naptha should stay completely separate from the bark and remain transparent.

<nowiki>*The naptha does NOT need to be hot, only warm (feel the bowl, not the naptha)*</nowiki>

'''Step 3:''' Stir the bark around with the naptha thoroughly and periodically until it is warmed from the water underneath. Once warm 5-10 minutes is all that is needed. '''YOU DO NOT NEED TO STIR CONSTANTLY, ONLY PERIODICALLY'''

I like to think of using the non-polar solvent like using water to dissolve some salt. Though the salt will not instantaneously become saturated with salt, it will in a few minutes. Same with the solvent, it is the bark and lime that works for hours, not the solvent.

'''Step 4:''' Pour off the naptha from the bark-goo and into <nowiki>*your precipitation container*</nowiki> to get naptha out pour off as much as you can by tilting the bowl, this will get at least 90% of the naptha out and there is no need to get 100% of it. <nowiki>*make sure to wipe the bottom of the container dry before pouring or else water will drip into your naptha*</nowiki>

If after this step the naptha still looks clear and colorless, don't worry. The naptha will be either colorless or slightly slightly yellow unlike the deep-yellows and sometimes browns you may see in STB teks.

<nowiki>*your precipitation container*</nowiki> I find it easiest to work with a small glass baking tray since a razor blade scraper can be used to get 99% of the crystals. You can use any naptha-safe container though.

=== Recrystallization: ===
 [http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/8646/spices.jpg [[Image:spices.th.jpg|spices.th.jpg]]]
'''This step works on the principal that naptha can dissolve DMT-freebase quite well when warm/hot but can barely dissolve any when it is freezing. When the naptha with DMT-freebase dissolved in it is cooled the DMT precipitates out slowly as crystals.'''

'''Step 1:''' Just pop the naptha straight into the freezer. You can do a recrystallization later for larger crystals, but for the initial step it is best to just put the naptha in the freezer right away.

Note: You can cover the container with saran-wrap or a lid, but expect your freezer to smell like naptha for a day or two whether you do or not. I usually to leave it uncovered.

It will always require several pulls to get all the DMT-freebase. There are 2 ways you can approach the multiple pulls 
'''Step 2a:''' While the first batch of naptha is in the freezer you can add new naptha and do another "pull", repeating the non-polar wash.

'''Step 2b:''' Wait until the mix has precipitated all the crystals and re-use only the single batch of naptha.

In either case it will require 2-3 pulls to get about 90% of the DMT, likely over 5 pulls to get over 98%.

'''Step 3:''' Keep the naptha in the freezer for a couple hours and you should start seeing crystals forming. If the naptha is still foggy that means that there are microscopic DMT-freebase molecules trying to find a crystal to attach to. Once it is clear then it is getting close to being done. It's best to leave it overnight or at least 8-12 hours though.

'''Step 4:''' Once you are satisfied with the "snow-globe" take it out and pour off the naptha. Make sure to pour it off slowly so none of the crystals spill out, then find a (preferably outdoors, fumes) place to lean the container against, the excess naptha will drip off and evaporate in a couple hours. Sometimes the crystals are floating all over, usually just SLOWLY pouring the naptha off works, you may need to pour it through a coffee filter to get all the crystals though.

Note 1: If the first 2 pulls don't cloud or precipitate crystals after 8-12 hours then check something in the extraction did not work correctly. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/w/index.php?title=Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek&action=submit#Common_issues.2FTroubleshooting Common issues/Troubleshooting] because that should not happen.

Note 2:there may be a small film underneath the crystals. The film is soluble in vinegar and I am pretty sure it is either DMT-n-oxide or Jungle DMT

Once it no longer smells like naptha the DMT-freebase is ready.

=== Storage: ===
 You can either scrape the DMT up and store in a mini-ziplock bag or any other small sealable container as is. A playing card folded with a crease down the middle works very well for moving the crystals around.

The other option is to dissolve it in vinegar as a tincture. (Most will probably keep it as is, but the tincture method is worth mentioning)

I personally prefer the tincture because it is easier to measure, keep, transport, smoke and it can be filtered for the utmost purity. If a tincture is to be made then all you need to do is dissolve everything in the precipitation container in a minimal amount of vinegar, the liquid will need to be evaporated down until it starts getting deep-yellow. There is a lot more information on tinctures in Tek 1

=== Super-short Compressed Tek 2 ===
You need:
 Lime (Ca(OH2)
 MHRB
 Vinegar
 Naptha
 Freezer

First mix enough vinegar to wet your MHRB (100g of bark is good for first extraction)
When it is wet, red and kinda thick-muddy slowly add boiling water until there is enough liquid that it moves back and forth when you tip the container. Mix it very thoroughly
Let it sit for 15 minutes or so.

Next add at least 3:4 ratio lime to bark. IE: 75g or more lime for 100g MHRB
Mix it thoroughly. It can be anywhere from the consistancy of cookie dough to thick pea soup. Not too wet and not bone dry so you see dry lime all over.
Let it sit for about an hour, stirring periodically.

Make sure the bark mush is warm. Cold naptha is very poor at dissolving DMT. You can use anything gentle to heat, hot water bath or crock pot on LOW. Naptha is FLAMABLE so do not use anything with a flame or an element on anything but LOW.
Add about 1ml naptha for every 1g MHRB used. It should stay clear and separate from the bark mush.
Stir the naptha around all the bark. Stir periodically over 5-10 minutes.

Gently pour off the naptha (might need to use coffee filter) into a container which will go in the freezer. I use an 8 inch pyrex cake pan.
If the naptha is at a low level in the container you may want to wrap it in saran wrap to prevent evaporation

In a couple hours the naptha should get cloudy. Slowly over 8-24 hours the DMT will precipitate out of the naptha and form crystals on the container.
When the naptha is no longer cloudy then gently and but quickly pour the naptha off the crystals (may need coffee filter).
Put the container on it's side to allow the naptha to evaporate. Watch the sun because the crystals will melt into a goo at about 40C or so.

When the crystals no longer smell of naptha they are ready to smoke or whatever. Keep in a dime bag or something.

== Common issues/Troubleshooting ==
 '''If the first 2 pulls (or pulls >2 hours after adding lime) don't seem to be yielding much or any DMT then there are a few questions you can ask to find the issue: '''
 '''Question 1:''' Was your lime Calcium Hydroxide (Ca(OH)2)? 
'''Solution 1:''' If the answer was "no" (look up MSDS) then real lime will need to be added in the amount mentioned in the tek as well as enough water to create the correct consistency.
 This error can cause the tek to become a STB rather than an A/B. Lime STB teks take 36-48 hours for the solvent to pull a significant amount of DMT so that may end up being what happens.

'''Questions 2:''' Was the mush mixed thoroughly enough? Was it too dry?
 '''Solutions 2:''' A little more water or mixing if done quickly may immediately fix the problem but may create a STB situation metioned in Solution 1.

'''Questions 3:'''(Tek 2 only) Is your Naptha suitable for use in freezer-precipitating DMT? (less likely) Did you use way too much?
 '''Solutions 3:''' If No to the first, look up the MSDS on the naptha or look up previous forum posts (avoid making entirely new post if possible).
 If No to the 2nd you may need to evaporate a portion of the naptha (not with heat, use fan to speed up room-temp evaporation) I've never had to do that though.

'''Question 4''': Was the vinegar added regular white vinegar suitable for this extraction?
 '''Solution 4''':If no, this will cause a STB situation mentioned in Solution 1

'''Question 5:''' Is your MHRB actually MHRB which contains DMT?
 '''Solution 5:''' Buy some real MHRB. Though with all the sources reviewed in the supplier forum I have never seen this as a problem.
 '''Good luck in all your life's endeavors! '''

[[Category:Extraction Tek]]
[[Category:Limtek]]
[[Category:Acid/Base]]
[[Category:DMT]]

Psychedelic Compounds Chemical and Physical Properties

2011-10-09T16:15:37Z

Digi123: /* Freebase DMT */

== Psychedelic Compounds Chemical and Physical Properties ==

=== DMT ===
N,N-Dimethyltryptamine

==== Freebase DMT ====
<table><tr><td>[[Image:dmtfreebase.png]]</td><td></table>
* Appearance: White/Transparent crystals
* CAS Registry Number: 61-50-7
* Composition: C12H16N2
* Molecular Weight: 188.26884 g/mol
* Melting point: 44-68°C (Conflicting reports in literature, as mentioned in [http://isomerdesign.com/PiHKAL/browse.php?domain=tk TIHKAL])
* Boiling point:
* XLogP: 2.0
* XLogP3: 2.5 ([http://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/summary/summary.cgi?cid=6089&loc=ec_rcs PubChem])
* pKa: 8.68 ([http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/w/images/8/81/MERCK.pdf Merck Index])
* Stability/Degradation: Oxidation to DMT N-Oxide (yellow oil) in extended presence of oxygen (specialy in evaporation of dmt-containing solvents with heat and/or fan or generally in prolonged exposure to open air). N-oxide may be reverted back to the parent compound by reduction, as described [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/DMT_N-Oxide_to_Freebase_DMT in the N-Oxide to Freebase Wiki].
* Solubility:
Very Soluble in Xylene, Toluene, Limonene, acetone, Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA), methanol, ethanol, Dichloromethane (DCM), chloroform, ether, Butanone (also known as methyl ethyl ketone (MEK)) and butanol.

Soluble in naphtha, hexane, heptane but almost insoluble in these solvents at freezing temperatures

Almost insoluble in water.

==== DMT N-Oxide ====
<table><tr><td>[[Image:dmtnoxide.jpg]]</td><td></table>
* Appearance: Yellow oil
* XLogP3: 2
* Solubility:
Soluble in Xylene, Toluene, Limonene

Slightly soluble in basic water

Insoluble in naphtha

==== DMT Fumarate ====

* Molecular Weight: 492.608 g/mol
* Solubility:
Very soluble in water

Soluble in methanol (~10mg/ml)

Soluble in boiling IPA, Practically insoluble in room temp IPA (~1mg/ml), Insoluble in freeze-cold IPA.

Slightly soluble in ethanol (~5mg/ml)

Insoluble in cold acetone

Insoluble in FASI (Fumaric Acid Saturated IPA)

Insoluble in FASA (Fumaric Acid Saturated Acetone)

===NMT ===
N-Methyltryptamine, monomethyltryptamine

==== Freebase NMT ====

<table><tr><td>[[Image:Nmt.jpg]]</td><td></table>
* Appearance: Oil, difficult crystallization, eventually forms crystalline stellar aggregates, darkens with exposure to air ([https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23544&p=2 Source 1], [http://www.erowid.org/library/books_online/tihkal/tihkal50.shtml Source 2])
* Composition: C11H14N2
* Molecular Weight: 174.24226 g/mol
* Melting point: 87-89C (Sigma Aldrich)
* Boiling point: 336.181 °C at 760 mmHg ([http://www.chemspider.com/Chemical-Structure.11523514.html Chemspider])
* XLogP3: 2.1 ([http://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/summary/summary.cgi?cid=6088 PubChem])
* Stability/Degradation: Darkens over time, but does not seem to form oxides ([https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23544&p=2 Source] )
* Solubility:
Soluble in methanol, warm ethanol, dichloromethane & choloroform. Soluble to some extent in naphtha (not nearly as much as DMT). It seemed only partially soluble in warm acetic acid. It is likely soluble in xylene. ([https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23544&p=2 Source] )
* Pharmacology and activity:
-Present in trace amounts as part of normal metabolism ([http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11763413 Source])

- 1/3 to 1/4 potency of DMT [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=269093#post269093 Nen (2001)])
* Further info: [http://www.erowid.org/library/books_online/tihkal/tihkal50.shtml TIHKAL NMT entry]
[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23544 Entheogenic Effects of NMT]

=== 5-MeO-DMT ===
5-methoxy-N,N-dimethyl-tryptamine

==== Freebase 5-MeO-DMT ====
<table><tr><td>[[Image:5meodmtfreebase.png]]</td><td></table>
* Appearance: Off-white crystals (Sigma Aldrich)
* Composition: C13H18N20
* Molecular Weight: 218.298 g/mol
* Melting Point: 69-70°C ([http://isomerdesign.com/PiHKAL/browse.php?domain=tk TIHKAL])
* XLogP: 1.9
* XLogP3: 1.5 ([http://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/summary/summary.cgi?cid=1832&loc=ec_rcs PubChem])
* Stability: Stable under normal temperatures and pressures. Incompatible with strong oxidizing agents, strong acids ([http://ch3v1.chemexper.com/cheminfo/servlet/org.dbcreator.MainServlet?sort=&query=msds._msdsID%3D11173&target=msds&action=PowerSearch&from=0&format=ccd&searchValue=j%60qQ%40%40IVAdbfRfTJTYrRj%40Bfjb%40%40%40&history=off&realQuery=structure._structureID%3D4638142&onclick=1&selectionInfo=&searchTemplate=uniqueMol.structureString%3D%3F+elsor+uniqueMol.structureID%3D%3F&options=brandqtyoffer Source])
* Solubility:
Soluble in: (at least) 20mg/ml 96% ethanol ([https://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=176401#post176401 Source])
Practically Insoluble in water ([http://ch3v1.chemexper.com/cheminfo/servlet/org.dbcreator.MainServlet?sort=&query=msds._msdsID%3D11173&target=msds&action=PowerSearch&from=0&format=ccd&searchValue=j%60qQ%40%40IVAdbfRfTJTYrRj%40Bfjb%40%40%40&history=off&realQuery=structure._structureID%3D4638142&onclick=1&selectionInfo=&searchTemplate=uniqueMol.structureString%3D%3F+elsor+uniqueMol.structureID%3D%3F&options=brandqtyoffer Source])

==== 5-MeO-DMT Hydrochloride====
* Melting Point: 145-146°C ([http://isomerdesign.com/PiHKAL/browse.php?domain=tk TIHKAL])

=== Bufotenine ===
5-HO-DMT - 5-hydroxy-N,N-dimethyl-tryptamine

==== Freebase Bufotenine ====
<table><tr><td>[[Image:bufoteninefreebase.png]]</td><td></table>
* CAS Registry Number: 487-93-4
* Composition: C12H16N2O
* Molecular Weight: 204.268 g/mol
* Melting point:146–147 °C (295–297 °F)
* Boiling point: 320 °C (608 °F)
* XLogP: 1.6
* XLogP3: 1.2 ([http://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/ PubChem])
* pKa:
* Solubility:
Acetone @ 20 C: soluble (5 g/100 ml)

Chloroform @ 20 C: soluble

Dichloromethane @ 20 C: soluble

Dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) @ 20 C: soluble (6 g/100 ml)

D-Limonene (Orange Oil) @ 20 C: insoluble

D-Limonene (Orange Oil) @ 176 C: soluble (more than 1.7 g/100 ml)

Dilute Acids and Alkalis: Soluble ([http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/w/images/8/81/MERCK.pdf Merck Index])

Ethanol @ 20 C: soluble

Ether @ 20 C: soluble

Ethyl acetate @ 20 C: soluble

Heptane @ 20 C: insoluble

Heptane with 40% MEK @ 20 C: soluble (0.53 g/100 ml)

Heptane with 50% MEK @ 20 C: soluble (1.22 g/100 ml)

IPA @ 20 C: soluble

MEK @ 20 C: soluble

Methanol @ 20 C: soluble

Naphtha @ 20 C: insoluble

Water @ 20 C: nearly insoluble in pure water (no acid or alkali added)

Xylene @ 20 C: nearly insoluble (less than 0.03 g/100 ml)

Xylene @ 144 C: soluble (1.5 g/100 ml)

==== Bufotenine Fumarate ====
* Solubility:
Soluble in water

Insoluble in FASA (Fumaric Acid Saturated Acetone)

=== Psilocin ===
4-HO-DMT - 4-Hydroxy-N,N-dimethyl-tryptamine

==== Freebase Psilocin ====
<table><tr><td>[[Image:psilocinfreebase.png]]</td><td></table>
* CAS Registry Number: 520-53-6
* Composition: C12H16N2O
* Molecular Weight: 204.27 g/mol
* Melting Point: 103-104°C ([http://isomerdesign.com/PiHKAL/read.php?domain=tk&id=18 TIHKAL]) , 173-176°C (Merck Index)
* XLogP3: 2.1 ([http://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/ PubChem])
* Stability/Degradation: Unstable in solution, especially alkaline solution (Merck Index).
* Solubility:
Soluble in 70% ethanol. Poorly soluble in dry ethanol, and poorly soluble in ethanol less than 60%. Very slightly soluble in water (sources: [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/w/images/8/81/MERCK.pdf Merck Index] , [https://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=221711#post221711 scientific publications])

=== Psilocybin ===
4-PO-DMT - O-phosphoryl-4-hydroxy-N,N-dimethyltryptamine

==== Psilocybin (Psilocin Phosphate Ester) ====
<table><tr><td>[[Image:psilocybin.png]]</td><td></table>
* CAS Registry Number: 520-52-5
* Composition: C12H17N2O4P
* Molecular Weight: 284.248141 g/mol
* Melting Point: 220-228° from boiling water; 185-195° from boiling methanol ([http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/w/images/8/81/MERCK.pdf Merck Index])
* XLogP3: -1.6 ([http://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/summary/summary.cgi?cid=10624&loc=ec_rcs PubChem])
* Stability/Degradation: Dephosphorylated into Psilocin under acidic conditions. Also when ingested, by phosphatases enzymes.
* Solubility:
Soluble in water. Soluble in 20 parts boiling water (= 0.79g/ml in boiling water), 120 parts boiling methanol (= 0.0932g/ml in boiling methanol); very soluble in 70% methanol saturated with KNO3, soluble in dry methanol, difficultly soluble in ethanol, increasingly less soluble in methanol less than 80%. Practically insoluble in chloroform, benzene (sources: [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/w/images/8/81/MERCK.pdf Merck Index] , [https://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=221711#post221711 scientific publications])

=== Mescaline ===
3,4,5-trimethoxyphenethylamine

==== Freebase Mescaline ====
<table><tr><td>[[Image:mescalinefreebase.png]]</td><td></table>
* CAS Registry Number: 54-04-6
* Composition: C11H17NO3
* Melting point: 35-36°C (Kindler and Peschke, 103. [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/w/images/8/81/MERCK.pdf Merck Index])
* Boiling point: 180°C (12 mmHg)
* XLogP: 0.6 ([http://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/ PubChem])
* XLogP3: 0.7 ([http://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/summary/summary.cgi?cid=4076&loc=ec_rcs PubChem])
* pKa: 9.56
* Appearance: long needle shaped white crystals
* Molecular weight: 211.26
Notes: forms mescaline carbonate on prolonged exposure to air
* Average dose: 300 to 600 milligrams with a duration of 5 to 12 hours.
* Solubility
Soluble in: alcohol, chloroform, benzene, xylene, toluene, acetone, dichloromethane, highly soluble in isopropyl alcohol, soluble in d-limonene

Moderately soluble in: water

Insoluble in: practically insoluble in ether or petroleum ether
* LD50: i.p. rats 370 mg/kg

==== Mescaline Citrate ====
* Solubility
Soluble in water

Insoluble in: xylene, acetone <nowiki>*</nowiki>

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Possible unreliable web source.

==== Mescaline Hydrochloride ====
<table><tr><td>[[Image:mescalinehcl.png]]</td><td></table>
* Molecular weight: 247.72 (Sigma Aldrich)
* Empirical Formula (Hill Notation): C11H17NO3 • HCl (Sigma Aldrich)
* CAS Number: 832-92-8
* Appearance: colorless crystals, needles
* Melting point: 184°C ([http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/w/images/8/81/MERCK.pdf Merck Index])
* Solubility:
Moderately soluble in: water, alcohol ([http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/w/images/8/81/MERCK.pdf Merck Index]), methanol (at least 1.0 mg/ml, source Sigma Aldrich solution)
(Merck Index)
Insoluble in: practically insoluble in toluene and acetone, insoluble in isopropyl alcohol, diethyl ether, and d-limonene
* LD50: i.p. rats 132 mg/kg
* Storage temperature: 2-8°C (Sigma Aldrich)
* Isolation: when mescaline hydrochloride is extracted from San Pedro, Achuma, or Peruvian torch, it can be isolated from the other alkaloids by washing it in IPA or acetone (use 10 ml per gram of alkaloids, and wash 2-3 times). The non-mescaline alkaloids dissolve in the IPA or acetate, while the mescaline hydrochloride does not. Note that for the cleanest results use about 2 washes of acetone, and then 2 washes with IPA.

==== Mescaline Picrate ====
* Melting point: mp 222°C.

==== Mescaline Sulfate Dihydrate====
<table><tr><td>[[Image:mescalinesulfate.png]]</td><td></table>
* Composition: (C11H17NO3)2 • H2SO4 • 2H2O
* Appearance: prisms
* Melting point: 183–186 °C (361–367 °F)
* Molecular Weight: 309.33606
* Soluble in: hot water, methanol
* Almost insoluble in: near freezing water, alcohol, acetone <nowiki>*</nowiki>
<nowiki>*</nowiki> Possible unreliable web source.

==== Mescaline Fumarate ====
* Composition: unknown (it may be a one to one salt or may not be)
* Appearance: White powder
* Melting point: unknown
* Solubility
Soluble in: water

Insoluble in: Limonene, Anydrous IPA, Acetone, MEK (most likely insoluble in all non-polars like xylene and toluene) [https://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18705 Source]

==== Mescaline Acetate ====
* Composition: unknown
* Appearance: white free flowing powder with a slight waxy texture <nowiki>***</nowiki>
* Melting point: unknown
* Solubility:
Soluble in: water<nowiki>***</nowiki>, isopropyl alcohol<nowiki>***</nowiki>, acetone<nowiki>***</nowiki>, DMSO<nowiki>***</nowiki> (more than 5 grams/100 ml), boiling MEK***

Insoluble in: xylene, d-limonene, cold MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) <nowiki>***</nowiki>

<nowiki>***</nowiki> This information was validated by SWIM and is reliable.
* Isolation: when mescaline acetate is extracted from San Pedro, Achuma, or Peruvian torch, it can be isolated from the other alkaloids by washing it in cold MEK (use 10 ml per gram of alkaloids, and wash 2-3 times). The non-mescaline alkaloids dissolve in the MEK, while the mescaline acetate does not. Mescaline acetate can be recrystallized in MEK by boiling the MEK and then freezing it overnight.

=== Ibogaine ===
12-methoxyibogamine

==== Freebase Ibogaine ====
<table><tr><td>[[Image:ibogainefreebase.png]]</td><td></table>
* CAS Registry Number: 83-74-9
* Composition: C20H26N2O
* Molecular Weight: 310.43324 g/mol
* Melting Point: 152-153 °C ([http://isomerdesign.com/PiHKAL/browse.php?domain=tk TIHKAL])
* XLogP3: 3.9 ([http://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/ PubChem])
* pKa: 8.1 in 80% methylcellosolve ([http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/w/images/8/81/MERCK.pdf Merck Index])
* Solubility: Soluble in limonene ([http://www.anoniem.org/?https://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=10651 Non-Toxic Iboga Extraction]) soluble in acetone (merck)

==== Ibogaine Hydrochloride ====
* Melting Point: 299-300 °C ([http://isomerdesign.com/PiHKAL/browse.php?domain=tk TIHKAL])
* Solubility: Soluble in water, methanol (Sigma Aldrich), slightly soluble in acetone (merck)

=== Voacangine ===
12-methoxyibogamine-18-carboxylic acid methyl ester

==== Voacangine ====
<table><tr><td>[[Image:voacangine.png]]</td><td></table>
* Composition: C22H28N2O3
* Molecular Weight: 368.46932 g/mole
* Melting Point: 136–137 °C ([http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/w/images/8/81/MERCK.pdf Merck Index])
* pKa: 7.4 (40% aq methanol); 5.73 (33% DMF) ([http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/w/images/8/81/MERCK.pdf Merck Index])
* XLogP3-AA: 3.5 ([http://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/ PubChem])

=== LSA (ergine) ===
Lysergamide

==== Freebase LSA ====
<table><tr><td>[[Image:lsafreebase.png]]</td><td></table>
CAS Registry Number: 478-94-4
* Composition: C16H17N3O
* Molecular Weight: 267.32568 g/mol
* XLogP3: 1.6 ([http://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/summary/summary.cgi?cid=442072&loc=ec_rcs PubChem])

=== Muscimol ===
Pantherine, Agarine

==== Freebase Muscimol ====
<table><tr><td>[[Image:muscimolfreebase.png]]</td><td></table>
* Appearance: White powder (Sigma Aldrich)
* CAS Registry Number: 2763-96-4
* Composition: C4H6N2O2
* Molecular Weight: 114.10264 g/mol
* Melting Point: 175°C (Merck Index)
* XLogP3-AA: -1.4 ([http://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/summary/summary.cgi?cid=4266&loc=ec_rcs PubChem])

=== Salvinorin A ===
Note: Technically NOT an alkaloid, as it contains no nitrogen. It is a trans-neoclerodane diterpene.

==== Salvinorin A ====
<table><tr><td>[[Image:salvinorina.png]]</td><td></table>
* Composition: C23H28O8
* Molecular Weight: 432.46362 g/mol
* Melting Point:242-244 – 238-240 °C (Wikipedia)
* Boiling Pont: 760.2 °C (1400 °F) (Wikipedia)
* XLogP3-AA: 2.5 ([http://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/ PubChem])

=== Elemicin ===
1,2,3-trimethoxy-5-allylbenzene

Note: Technically NOT an alkaloid, as it contains no nitrogen.

==== Elemicin ====
<table><tr><td>[[Image:elemicin.png]]</td><td></table>

* CAS Number: 487-11-6
* Molecular Formula: C12H16O3
* Molecular Weight: 208.25364 g/mol
* Boiling Point: 152-156 °C @ 17 mmHg, 144-147 °C @ 10 mmHg ([http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1021681.html Source]), 146-147 °C ([http://www.chemyq.com/En/xz/xz3/20815lmxvj.htm Source 1] [http://www.chunyuan.com.cn/zhanshishow.asp?id=94 Source 2]), 279.8 °C @ 760 mmHg ([http://www.chemspider.com/Chemical-Structure.9830.html ChemSpider])
* XlogP3: 2.5 ([http://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/ PubChem])
* Solubility:
Soluble in alcohol, Insoluble in water ([http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1021681.html Source])

=== Harmine ===
7-methoxy-β-carboline

==== Freebase Harmine ====
<table><tr><td>[[Image:harminefreebase.png]]</td><td></table>
* Composition: C13H12N2O
* Molecular Weight: 212.25 (Sigma Aldrich)
* Melting point: 262-264 °C (Sigma Aldrich)
* Boiling point: 421.4°Cat760mmHg ([http://www.lookchem.com/cas-442/442-51-3.html Lookchem])
* XLogP: 2.5
* XLogP3: 3.6
* pKa: 7.7
* Solubility:
Insoluble in basic water, poorly soluble in distilled water. Reasonably soluble in acetone (at 25°C, acetone can dissolve 4mg/ml mixed harmalas as [https://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=200200#post200200 this test shows])
* Isolation: To separate from harmaline, using pKa properties, raise pH of solution containing both alkaloids to pH 8.75 to precipitate 92% of harmine and only 8% Harmaline. Filter to retrieve precipitated alkaloids, and raise the pH further to retrieve the bulk of harmaline. Check the [https://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5725 freebase percentage calculator thread] and the [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Harmalas_Extraction_and_Separation_Guide Harmala Extraction Guide] for more info.

==== Harmine Hydrochloride ====
<table><tr><td>[[Image:harminehcl.png]]</td><td></table>
* Melting Point: 321 °C
* Solubility:
Soluble in water

Insoluble in salt-saturated water

=== Harmaline ===
3,4-dihydro-7-methoxy-1-methyl-β-carboline

==== Freebase Harmaline ====
<table><tr><td>[[Image:harmaline.png]]</td><td></table>
* Composition: C13H14N2O
* Melting point: 232-234 °C (Sigma Aldrich)
* Boiling point: 120-140 °C at 0.001 mm/Hg ([http://isomerdesign.com/PiHKAL/browse.php?domain=tk TIHKAL])
* XLogP: 0.8
* XLogP3: 1.2
* pKa: 9.8
* Solubility:
Slightly soluble in basic water, poorly soluble in distilled water. Reasonably soluble in acetone (at 25°C, acetone can dissolve 4mg/ml mixed harmalas as [https://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=200200#post200200 this test shows])
* Isolation: To separate from harmine, using pKa properties, raise pH of solution containing both alkaloids to pH 8.75 to precipitate 92% of harmine and only 8% Harmaline. Filter to retrieve precipitated alkaloids, and raise the pH further to retrieve the bulk of harmaline. Check the [https://www.dmt-nexus.com/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5725 freebase percentage calculator thread] and the [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Harmalas_Extraction_and_Separation_Guide Harmala Extraction Guide] for more info.

==== Harmaline Hydrochloride ====
* Solubility:
Soluble in water

Insoluble in salt-saturated water

=== THH ===
Tetrahydroharmine - 7-methoxy-1-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-β-carboline

==== Freebase THH ====
<table><tr><td>[[Image:thhfreebase.png]]</td><td></table>
* Composition: C13H16N2O
* Molecular Weight: 216.27894 g/mol
* Melting Point: 187-190 °C ([http://isomerdesign.com/PiHKAL/browse.php?domain=tk TIHKAL])
* XlogP: 1.9
* XLogP3: 1.9
* Solubility:
Soluble in chloroform, ethanol & methanol. (Ott 1996.)

Soluble in ethyl acetate. (Siddiqui et al. 1983)

Poorly soluble in distilled water
* Analytical data:

- Colorimetric ([http://www.erowid.org/library/books_online/ayahuasca_apa/aya_sec1_thh.shtml Trout's ayahuasca], except for marquis info, from Bufoman):
Marquis: Green

α-Nitroso-β-naphtholnitrous acid: Dull violet

Dragendorff's: Orange

Fröhde: Navy blue

Hopkin-Cole: Purple

Ehrlich's:: Very Slow; THH produces a characteristic robin's egg blue over a 24 hour period.

- UV fluorescence: THH does not give strong florescence just a dark spot with a slight boarder of light purple (Bufoman's tests)

==== THH Hydrochloride ====
<table><tr><td>[[Image:thhhcl.png]]</td><td></table>
* Composition: C13H17ClN2O
* Molecular Weight: 252.73988 g/mol
* Melting Point: 232–234 °C ([http://isomerdesign.com/PiHKAL/browse.php?domain=tk TIHKAL])
* Boiling point: 399.2 °C at 760 mmHg ([http://www.lookchem.com/TETRAHYDROHARMINE Lookchem])
* Mol File: 40959-16-8.mol
* Flash Point: 195.2 °C
* Enthalpy of Vaporization: 64.99 kJ/mol
* Vapour Pressure: 1.4E-06 mmHg at 25°C
* H-Bond Donor: 3
* H-Bond Acceptor: 2
* Rotatable Bond Count: 1
* Topological Polar Surface Area: 37.1
* Heavy Atom Count: 17
* Complexity: 258

== Relevant NOT psychedelic compounds ==

=== Gramine ===
N,N-Dimethyl-1H-indole-3-methanamine

==== Freebase Gramine ====
<table><tr><td>[[Image:graminefreebase.png]]</td><td></table>
* Composition: C11H14N2
* Molecular Weight: 174.24226 g/mol
* Melting point: 138-139°C (Merck)
* Boiling point:
* XLogP3: 1.8
* pKa:
* Solubility:
Sol in alcohol, ether, chloroform; slightly sol in cold acetone. Practically insol in petr ether, water. (Merck Index)

=== Hordenine ===
N,N-dimethyltyramine

==== Freebase Hordenine ====
<table><tr><td>[[Image:hordeninefreebase.png]]</td><td></table>
* CAS Registry Number: 539-15-1
* Composition: C10H15NO
* Molecular Weight: 165.23 g/mol
* Melting point: 117-118° ([http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/w/images/8/81/MERCK.pdf Merck Index])
* Boiling point: 173° @ 11mmHg ([http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/w/images/8/81/MERCK.pdf Merck Index])
* XlogP3: 2.1 (PubChe[[File:m)
* Solubility:
Very sol in alcohol, chloroform, ether. 7 grams dissolve in 1000 ml water. Sparingly sol in benzene, toluene, xylene. Practically insol in petr ether. ([http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/w/images/8/81/MERCK.pdf Merck Index])

==== Hordenine Hydrochloride ====
<table><tr><td>[[Image:hordeninehcl.png]]</td><td></table>
* CAS Registry Number: 6027-23-2
* Composition: C10H15NO.HCl
* Molecular Weight: 201.70 g/mol
* Melting point: 177° ([http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/w/images/8/81/MERCK.pdf Merck Index])
* Solubility:
Very sol in water. ([http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/w/images/8/81/MERCK.pdf Merck Index])

=== Vasicine ===
(3R)-1,2,3,9-tetrahydropyrrolo[2,1-b]quinazolin-3-ol;Peganine

==== Freebase Vasicine ====
<table><tr><td>[[Image:vasicine.jpg]]</td><td></table>

* Composition: C11H12N2O
* Molecular Weight: 188.22578 g/mol
* Melting point: 209-211° C (Decomposes) ([http://www.chemicalland21.com/specialtychem/nd/VASICINE.htm source])
* XLogP3: 0.4 ([http://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/summary/summary.cgi?cid=442935&loc=ec_rcs pubchem])
* Pharmacology: Uterotonic, abortifacient, bronchodilatory activity, expectorant, respiratory stimulant activity, moderate hypotensive activity (sources: [http://www.chemicalland21.com/specialtychem/nd/VASICINE.htm 1], [http://indianmedicine.eldoc.ub.rug.nl/root/A/2091/ 2]
* Solubility: Soluble in NaCl-saturated water (harmalas precipitate as HCl salts in NaCl-saturated water, hence vasicine can be separated from harmalas in peganum harmala. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Harmalas_Extraction_and_Separation_Guide harmala extraction guide for more info])

=== Vasicinone ===
(R)-2,3-dihydro-3-hydroxypyrrolo(2,1-b)quinazolin-9(1H)-one

==== Freebase Vasicine ====
<table><tr><td>[[Image:vasicinone.jpg]]</td><td></table>

* Appearance: White powder
* Composition: C11H10N2O2
* Molecular Weight: 202.2093 g/mol
* Melting point: 203°-204° C ([http://www.chemicalland21.com/specialtychem/nd/VASICINE.htm source])
* XLogP3: 0.4 ([http://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/summary/summary.cgi?cid=442935&loc=ec_rcs pubchem])
* Pharmacology: Uterotonic, abortifacient, bronchodilatory activity, expectorant, respiratory stimulant activity, moderate hypotensive activity (sources: [http://www.chemicalland21.com/specialtychem/nd/VASICINE.htm 1], [http://indianmedicine.eldoc.ub.rug.nl/root/A/2091/ 2]
* Solubility: Water: 1600 mg/l. Soluble in NaCl-saturated water (harmalas precipitate as HCl salts in NaCl-saturated water, hence vasicinone can be separated from harmalas in peganum harmala. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Harmalas_Extraction_and_Separation_Guide harmala extraction guide for more info]

=== Deoxyvasicine ===
1,2,3,9-Tetrahydropyrrolo(2,1-b)quinazoline; Deoxypeganin;

==== Freebase Deoxyvasicine ====
<table><tr><td>[[Image:deoxyvasicine.jpg]]</td><td></table>

* Appearance: White to yellow powder
* Composition: C11H12N2
* Molecular Weight: 172.22638 g/mol
* Melting point: 86-87° C ([http://www.chemicalland21.com/specialtychem/nd/VASICINE.htm source])
* XLogP3: 0.4
* Pharmacology: Uterotonic, abortifacient, bronchodilatory activity, expectorant, respiratory stimulant activity, moderate hypotensive activity (sources: [http://www.chemicalland21.com/specialtychem/nd/VASICINE.htm 1], [http://indianmedicine.eldoc.ub.rug.nl/root/A/2091/ 2]
* Solubility: Water: 1600 mg/l. Soluble in NaCl-saturated water (harmalas precipitate as HCl salts in NaCl-saturated water, hence vasicine can be separated from harmalas in peganum harmala. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Harmalas_Extraction_and_Separation_Guide harmala extraction guide for more info])

== Solvents and Alkaloids XlogP and XlogP3 ==

'''Alkaloid XlogP list'''

* 0.1 - 6-methoxy-2-methyl-beta-Carboline
* 0.7 - Beta-carboline, 6-methoxy-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-Dimethyl-2H-beta-carbolin-6-yl methyl ether
* 0.7 - Mescaline
* 0.8 - Harmaline
* 1.0 - 5-HO-Tryptamine (serotonin)
* 1.3 - 5-HO-DMT N-oxide (Bufotenine N-oxide)
* 1.6 - 5-HO-DMT (bufotenine)
* 1.7 - N-Methylserotonin
* 1.7 - DMT N-oxide (Dimethyltryptamine N-oxide)
* 1.7 - 5-MeO-NMT (5-Methoxy-N-methyltryptamine)
* 1.7 - 2-Methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-beta-carboline
* 1.8 - NMT (N-Methyltryptamine)
* 1.9 - 5-MeO-DMT (methoxybufotenin)
* 1.9 - Tetra−Hydro−Harmine (THH)
* 2.0 - DMT (Dimethyltryptamine)
* 2.5 - Harmine

'''Alkaloid XlogP3 list'''

* -1.4 - Muscimol
* -1.6 - Psilocybin
* 0.6 - Harmalol
* 0.7 - Mescaline
* 1.2 - Harmaline
* 1.2 - Bufotenine
* 1.5 - 5-MeO-DMT
* 1.6 - LSA (ergine)
* 1.8 - Gramine
* 1.9 - Tetrahydroharmine
* 2.0 - DMT N-oxide
* 2.1 - Psilocin
* 2.1 - NMT
* 2.5 - DMT
* 2.5 - Salvinorin A
* 2.5 - Elemicin
* 3.5 - Voacangine
* 3.6 - Harmine
* 3.6 - Harman
* 3.9 - Ibogaine

Lower XlogP values are more water soluble, and higher XlogP values are more non-polar soluble.

'''Solvent XlogP list'''

* -0.7 - DMSO
* -0.5 - Methanol
* -0.1 - Ethyl Alcohol
* 0.2 - Acetone
* 0.4 - IPA
* 0.4 - MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone)
* 0.7 - Ethyl Acetate
* 0.9 - Ethyl Ether
* 1.5 - DCM
* 2.1 - Chloroform
* 2.5 - Toluene
* 2.5 - Xylene
* 3.7 - Limonene
* 4.3 - Heptane (similar to naphtha)