DMT-Nexus Wiki - User contributions [en]

Attitude Page

2014-09-05T00:51:34Z

Cosmic Spore: /* No discussion on selling, buying, sourcing, acquiring, pricing, trading, mentioning pending deliveries or smuggling of drugs */

The DMT Nexus is a community dedicated to expanding knowledge regarding DMT and related psychedelics, with a strong focus on the safety and respect necessary both in the use of these substances as well as in the form of developing the knowledge and sharing the knowledge within the community. For a propper functioning of the community, all of those browsing and posting here agree to honor the following key points:

== Attitude ==

=== Learn and give back ===

The Nexus is a community that thrives on the collaborative efforts of members in different areas throughout the years. We depend on the contributions of all Nexians, be it seniors or new members, to create, maintain and update the quality information here. If you have enjoyed, learned from and made use of the information and discussions here, please take your time to also contribute back. Each person has their own unique way to contribute, so you have to find your own. A few ideas: improve chemical knowledge and do side-by-side tests, participate in discussions and criticise constructively other arguments, critically question other people to improve depth of discussions, contribute to the Nexus wiki, sharing trip reports, mediating arguments between people who cant find consensus, post interesting links to related subjects, contribute to the sustainability of the Nexus, [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/donate.html donating], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=12 suggesting] new changes to design or forum, etc. Give back, and be a co-creator of this incredible place :)

=== Respectful communication ===

Watch your language. Communication is comprised of not only the explicit but also the implicit messages, which are transmitted through choice of words and general tone of speech. We do not want curse words and immature slang in the Nexus! Please use language in a dignified manner.

=== Safe and constructive drug talk ===

This forum is not a place for superficial unsafe talk of drugs such as excessive use and dosages, unsafe combinations and settings and careless use of substances that naturally have a riskier profile without due disclaimers and clear signs of having learned from mistakes and offering insights for better usage. See this thread for more info: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=25363 Policy regarding discussion of different drugs]. Substances such as research chemicals have some added dangers that should be taken in account and explicitly recognized when talking about them in the forum, as [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=389003 this] thread explains.

Also we do NOT give medical advice here (such as telling people not to see doctors and go to shamans for serious medical problems, etc), as [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=20759 this] thread explains. Lastly, please read the [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety Health and Safety section] and the for contraindications, facts and tips on safety, reducing risks, dealing with difficult experiences, integrating the trips and maximizing benefits.

=== Critical thinking and basic autonomy ===

We try to encourage and expect critical thinking between members. This means one should question one's assumptions and actions, for example seeing if it can impact negatively upon oneself or others around you. We do not want people displaying arguments and trains of thought that are reckless and dangerous, or talking about things that can be a liability. Also one should do basic research before asking and saying things, we do not want to spoonfeed answers. The [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ FAQ] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/ WIKI], the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=search Nexus search function] and Google are basic tools everybody should use and should already help prevent the repetition of topics, that conversion remains superficial and that members have to repetitively respond by pointing to the obvious.

=== Quality of information and discussion ===

If you post something as a fact, you have to be able to provide a reliable source for your argument. This depends contextually, but a peer-reviewed publication is an example of what could be a good source, and a random unknown website or what “someone said” could be an example of an unreliable source. If you state something as your opinion then please support that opinion with good reasoning. If you cannot do that then don't state your opinion at all since it's useless for others. This is not Facebook with like/dislike.

== Rules ==

=== Over 18 years ===

The age of majority is the threshold of adulthood as it is conceptualized (and recognized or declared) in law. It is the chronological moment when minors cease to legally be considered children and assume control over their persons, actions, and decisions, thereby terminating the legal control and legal responsibilities of their parents or guardian over and for them.

This means that at the age of 18 you are considered to have your own freedom and responsibility.

=== No discussion on selling, buying, sourcing, acquiring, pricing, trading, mentioning pending deliveries or smuggling of drugs ===

[http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/smuggling?s=t Definition of smuggling]

This includes all isolated psychedelic compounds and RCs (Research Chemicals), whether they are legal or not and helping identifying what is clearly a sourced substance. The only goods allowed to be discussed are legal live plants, legal viable seeds (both in the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=108 Sustainable plant and seed suppliers subforum]) and legal/unwatched chemical supplies. See [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3414 Street Value of DMT (AND WHY YOU SHOULDN'T EVER SELL DMT AND OTHER PSYCHEDELICS]) for good reasons why we don't allow this.

Also please read this thread: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=38302 Bye bye MHRB sourcing talk, we will remember you]

=== No preaching ===

If you have an opinion about something, respectfully state it, but please do not talk in absolutes about right and wrong or disrespectfully disregard other world views. No matter how convinced, nobody has a monopoly over knowing what life or the universe is all about, of knowing what happens after death or exactly what 'hyperspace' is and where the experiences come from.

=== No Conspiracy Theories ===

Due to the divisive unconstructive fear-mongering nature of CT topics and the fact that they often rely on unreliable anecdotes and sources make them an [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=11487 undesired topic here in the Nexus].

Conspiracy fact ''may'' be acceptable, provided '''enough''' factual information, evidence, and credible sources are given; wild speculation is minimized. This is at the discretion of the moderators and The Traveler.

=== No confrontational attitude ===

Diversity, constructive criticism and differing opinions are welcome. Nobody has to unquestioningly agree with everything in this community. Nevertheless, we do not want a confrontational attitude, members that are constantly antagonistic, that turn arguments into fights and worsen the atmosphere. We don't appreciate dramas or excessive sarcastic posting. If one is not happy with a discussion, respectfully state why or don't post at all. Don't use the Nexus for venting your personal frustrations, please question yourself why is each post being written, if it is beneficial to the community. Please tell any moderators if you have a legitimate complaint or suggestion about the forums, but be patient and don't fuel drama. We are constantly trying to improve this community and need your help and patience for it.

=== No sharing of any real life information ===

Due to the nature of the topics discussed on this forum it is not allowed to post any information that will reveal one's identity. Examples of this are facebook pages, personal websites, email addresses, home addresses, photo's of one self or any other means that will give handles to have you tracked in real life.

=== No unsafe extraction settings and procedures ===

We are against people extracting or using substances in student dorms/parents/shared houses or any other unsafe place or where the owners or roommates do not agree with what is being done. We do not give tips on 'stealth' teks. Do not do it unless the owner of the place accepts his/her full responsibility for the actions being done. If you don't have such a place to extract now, be patient, many have waited years and years for the right moment.

=== No discussion about taking entheogens in an unsafe or irresponsible setting ===

Taking entheogens in a place where it is clearly not safe, either physically and/or legally, is not supported by the DMT-Nexus. For this we do not condone discussion of taking entheogens in (semi) public places or where the location is outright dangerous for the person taking the entheogen like on the ledge of a cliff or the top of a building.

=== No commercial-scaled extractions and reckless “spreading” ===

The Nexus is not a place for commercial operations and we do not want to support drug dealers; we believe in using these substances for personal use.

If and when sharing these substances, we believe that it has to be done without money or other payments involved, with a careful approach and care when facilitating the introduction and/or experience of others.

It is imperative to take care that the person ingesting has no contraindicating medical/psychological history, takes it in a proper set and setting, and correct dosage/method of ingestion. This cannot be done if the substances are spread on a large scale. We do not want to "turn on the world", those who are ready will seek it. Indiscriminate spreading of psychedelics can lead to potential serious damage to people and is a big legal liability. Big extractions (and the preparations leading to it and gathering of materials) can attract the attention of the Law.

Spreading of the message of psychedelics itself through superficial YouTube videos showing use or extractions can also cause a lot of damage to the community (as happened with salvia) and is frowned upon.

=== Discussions about Novel Psychoactive Substances (RC) and Nootropics are only allowed for full members ===

New members cannot discuss Novel Psychoactive Substances (RC) and Nootropics, only full members can. Read more about it here [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=40448 NEW SUBFORA 'Nootropics' and Novel Psychoactive Substances (RC)']

=== No synthesis talk that uses dangerous/watched chemicals and procedures ===

Discussion of simple safe non-commercial synthesis not requiring watched chemicals are tolerated (example: the reduction of DMT N-oxide to DMT with zinc, or the supposed LSA-to-LSH conversion).

=== No using the Nexus as a personal meet-up point ===

Due to potential legal risks, we do not want people giving their emails or personal contacts (or displaying full face pictures) openly. We don't want people telling other members they don't already know to meet up privately, this can be a problem for both the people meeting as well as bringing attention for the whole community. The only exception we make is that we allow establishing general meeting points for festivals and conferences because you don't have to say who you are in the Nexus when going there, and you can go to the meeting point if you want while remaining anonymous. If you do meet up, do not bring drugs and be sure to maintain your personal safety.

=== Only talk about sources for live plants and seeds ===

We have decided to allow only talk about sources of live plants and seeds. This way we are putting energy into a sustainable relationship with these plants, and not just finding a 'source' (which is often unsustainable, for example check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=46913 here]). Also, many people were coming only to look for dry plant sources without an appropriate attitude, plus we were only helping calling attention of law enforcement to those suppliers. If you want dry plant matter, google it or look in other forums. For more info, check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=38302 this thread]. Discussing sources for chemicals/labware/etc is still allowed.

# Note: Art Van D'Lay is the only person exempt from these rules. If anybody posts in opposition to our stated attitude, Art will be let loose on the offender :D

FAQ - DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide

2014-08-07T16:53:09Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Links */

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of the 'DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide'<ref>DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide
[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6341]</ref>.}}

== DMT overview ==

=== What is DMT, Where do I learn the basics? ===

DMT is a naturally occuring substance, present in trace amounts in normal human metabolism (and its purpouse is unknown, check question [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Is_it_true_the_pineal_gland_produces_DMT_naturally_and_is_involved_in_dreaming.3F 2.1] , as well as in a variety of plants and animals.

It can be extracted from some of these plants and smoked for some very strong psychedelic/entheogenic effects lasting 10 minutes. It can also be taken orally, but we have an enzyme (MAO) in our stomach that destroys dmt if taken orally, so for taking orally DMT must be acompanied by a substance that inhibits this enzyme (MAOI, or MAO Inhibitor), which is also present in some other plants.

Ayahuasca, a sacred drink used by indigenous people of the Amazon, is an example of a drink made from a dmt-containing plant (Psychotria viridis), together with a MAOI containing plant (Banisteriopsis caapi), that is drank orally for a psychedelic/entheogenic experience lasting around 4 hours.

When smoking, we do not need to use MAOI because we do not have MAOs in our lungs. Nevertheless, some people like to also ingest MAOIs before vaporizing DMT, or vaporizing a MAOI together with the DMT (such as in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ_-_DMT_Frequently_Asked_Questions_and_Troubleshooting_Guide#What_is_changa_.2F_How_to_make_changa_.3F changa]), to make the experience last longer.

For learning more about DMT, this whole webpage is dedicated to it. Here's a few links

==== Links ====

* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dimethyltryptamine Wikipedia DMT Link]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/ The Dmt Nexus Wiki]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ Frequently Asked Questions]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=forum Main Dmt Nexus Forum]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Abbreviations.htm List of abbreviations and their meanings]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acronyms.htm List of chat acronyms & text shorthand]

=== Are there different types of DMT? ===

DMT can be in salt form or in freebase form. A salt form means the DMT is attached to an acid molecule. DMT is naturally in salt form in the plants because of plant acids (for example dmt tannate or oxalate due to tannic or oxalic acid being present in some plants). When people extract DMT, they can make it in freebase form to smoke, because DMT in salt form can't be smoked, it has high boiling point and breaks down instead of vaporizing efficiently. Some salt forms like DMT fumarate can even be toxic to smoke due to creation of maleic anhydride during combustion.

Appart from being naturally in brews made of DMT containing plants like ayahuasca, DMT can also be made into salt for, for example DMT fumarate, when people extract it, because DMT fumarate is stable and can be stored for long, and it can be taken orally or intranasally. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods this] for more info. Regarding dosages in different salt forms, one can read [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this] thread. Each salt form of DMT have their own weight depending on the acid molecule weight (for example DMT fumarate's weight is around 76% DMT, 24% fumaric acid), so dosages could be adjusted proportionately to the amount of DMT when ingesting, but since each person is differently sensitive to DMT and since salt form may be a bit more effective to ingest orally, this "salt weight calculation" is not really necessary for DMT, one can just ingest according to [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 these] recommendations, starting low for first time, and adjusting according to own sensitivity and batch the next time.

There are other molecules which have the DMT structure built into them but they are not DMT, they have structural modifications, for example 4-HO-DMT also known as psilocin and 4-PO-DMT, psilocybin, the active compounds in mushrooms, which are different molecules altogether with their own particular effects. Small modifications in molecules can completely change effects. So psilocybin, psilocin, 5-MeO DMT, and 5-HO-DMT (bufotenine), plus others, are all different molecules, they are NOT the same as DMT. Each of them has different effects, pharmacology, etc etc. On the other hand, DMT freebase or DMT in salt form (tannate, acetate, fumarate) are all DMT.

== DMT Chemistry and Body ==

=== Is it true the pineal gland produces DMT naturally and is involved in dreaming and death? What does DMT do in the body? ===

At this point there is no evidence to support the claim that DMT is produced in the pineal or brain. It is a speculation raised by Dr Rick Strassman due to his previous interest in the pineal. So far in humans, the key enzymes necessary for this have [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=5549 not been found present in the human brain], therefore it seem more likely it is produced elsewhere in the body, though some recent research has shown in primates these enzymes are present in pineal gland. In any case nothing is really proven yet so we must avoid making claims before more data comes in.

The supposed connection of DMT and dreams, and the idea that DMT is released when we die, both are speculation with no real evidence to back them up.

It IS proven, though, for decades already, that DMT is produced in the human body and is present at all times in trace amounts, for unknown functions (which could be several functions, see last link below).

==== Links ====

*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18834 Zero proof DMT is made in the brain]
*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=295746#post295746 I dislike the "DMT is responsible for your dreams" theory]
*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18394 Rethinking DMT and the Pineal Gland]
*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18448 The functions of DMT in our body: If DMT would be a neurotransmitter]

=== Is DMT dangerous? ===

Researches have been made showing the relative safety of dmt. It does not cause physical damage, addiction, and any tolerance disappears very quickly. Ayahuasca, the dmt-containing brew from the Amazon, has been studied by multidisciplinary groups in Brazil and other countries and was shown that in a careful context, it presents no negative cognitive/psychiatric/social consequences, even in adolescents.

There is yet little research into vaporized dmt, but there seems to be no sign that it is in any way more dangerous physically than other administration forms. There are no reported deaths from smoking DMT. Smoking it will not lead to a dangerous overdose because the onset is so quick that one can only inhale a certain amount before being gone to ´hyperspace', without being able to smoke more until one is down again.

However:
* People with extreme heart or other conditions for whom strong emotions could be dangerous are contra-indicated, just like a roller coaster would for them.
* It is important to notice that with any psychedelic, it is a very powerful emotional/mental experience, so those with personal or family psychiatric history, unstable emotionally or going through some very difficult moments in life should be extremely careful.
* Also, it is possible that during the experience, one temporarily loses orientation in the consensus reality, so smoking/ingesting next to a cliff, sharp objects, etc, is not a good idea. BE IN A PHYSICALLY SAFE ENVIRONMENT!
* DO NOT use MAOIs (so for example an ayahuasca brew) together with stimulants or SSRI medication

Appart from that, there are psychological issues to be considered. Please read the health and safety section linked below, as well as the scientific articles also linked below.

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety Health And Safety Section]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1441 Scientific Articles on DMT/Ayahuasca/Psychedelics]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4400 Long term effects of smoking DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5843 DMT After-Effects]

=== Is a MAOI diet / Ayahuasca fasting necessary? What kind of dangers are there with medication interaction? ===

Unlike some pharmaceutical MAOI, the Harmalas, alkaloids present in the caapi vine and syrian rue are reversible inhibitors of MAO-A, while Tyramine, the component in some food that could cause problems in big amounts, is eliminated partly by MAO-A and but also partly by the intact MAO-B ([http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 source] ). Also for some pharmacological reason as shown in [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_fig9big.jpg this] diagram, tyramine can still be partly metabolized by MAO-A even during the harmala effects.

In other words, in terms of '''food''' interaction, the danger with reversible MAOI use (in for example ayahuasca or pharmahuasca with harmalas) and food interaction is very reduced. The necessity of the very strict dieting for ayahuasca with extensive list of what one must absolutely not eat is an exaggeration, though it is advised to eat light because extreme amounts of tyramine in some specific foods could theoretically still be a potential problem.

There seem to be no reports of actual life-threatening events with tyramine-containing foods and harmalas. There are even people that purposely ate tyramine-containing foods with no ill effects, but there have also been reports of negative symptoms such as very strong headaches and negative body load when mixing a heavy food consumption before/during/after harmala consumption. Several other variables may also be involved that are unrelated to tyramine and harmala-food interaction (variables such as for example exhaustion from the trip, vasodilation, the body/ayahuasca telling the person to 'eat better' in general, etc). Headaches seem specially common when mixing beer and harmalas.

In any case, it is generally considered common sense to eat light before and after the use of ayahuasca and analogues (and psychedelics in general). Just follow your good sense and you should be fine. To eer on the side of caution, the food to avoid eating (or over-eating) is aged or fermented food specially aged cheese, fermented or smoked meat (fish included) and soy products (though some soy products have also been found to have little tyramine content). Beer should also be avoided as some people have experienced negative interaction between MAOIs and beer. Apart from that, there are no real restrictions, eat lightly and all should be good :)

In relation to how long to wait after the last food before taking ayahuasca, this is very personal. Some like to have empty stomach and be fasting for 6 or more hours, but this is not necessary, and others feel it is even negative to fast for so long, because a too empty stomach might make one very tired during the ceremony, specialy at the end, and can also make purging a specially difficult or uncomfortable experience. Some consider better to have eaten something light (like some fruits or cereal or light sandwhich) a couple of hours before ingesting ayahuasca/analogues.

Remember: With the exception of moclobemide, which stands in the same category as harmalas as far as reversibility and food interaction goes, avoid all other pharmaceutical MAOIs !! Pharmaceutical irreversible MAOIs are VERY dangerous to take without taking strong precautions with food and drug interaction.

'''What IS dangerous is interaction between any MAOIs (including harmalas) and stimulants or some medication''' such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_serotonin_reuptake_inhibitor SSRI] medication such as prozac, or stimulants such as amphetamines or others. If you're taking SSRI's, do not consume MAOIs!! Do not mix stimulants with MAOIs either! Mixing stimulants/SSRIs with MAOIs can cause Serotonin Syndrome which may lead to convulsions or even death. For pharmaceuticals and substances that should NEVER be taken when consuming harmalas, check [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 1] and [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 2]

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29131 Do you experience tyramine interaction with harmalas?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5711 Will smoked Rue cause MAOI?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5398 Think iv cracked it]
* [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=tyramine%20food%20table&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CFMQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fddr.nal.usda.gov%2Fbitstream%2F10113%2F7351%2F1%2FIND43817287.pdf&ei=PpvsT8zAEsXAhAehj-nPBQ&usg=AFQjCNGKR57Q_VTqzOjKxfvKbu0kDTB8Ng&cad=rja Scientific publication on food containing tyramine]
* [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 scientific publication on interaction of MAOIs and tyramine]

== DMT and Society ==

=== Is dmt legal? ===

Posession and sales of DMT in its pure extracted/synthesized form is illegal, schedule 1 in USA and controlled by United Nations and can land you in jail if found in most countries.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/dmt/dmt_law.shtml Erowid DMT Law Vault]

=== '''Are the natural ingredients such as mimosa, and ayahuasca, illegal?''' ===

'''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=21527 On the Legal Status of DMT Source Plants in the US (with a discussion of the religious use defense)]'''

==== Links ====

* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/ayahuasca/ayahuasca_law.shtml Erowid Ayahuasca Law Vault]
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/plants/mimosa/mimosa_law.shtml Erowid Mimosa Law Vault]

=== Whats the price of dmt / Can I trade dmt? ===

'''[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Attitude_Page#No_discussion_on_selling.2C_buying.2C_sourcing.2C_acquiring.2C_pricing.2C_trading.2C_mentioning_pending_deliveries_or_smuggling_of_drugs No discussion on selling, buying, sourcing, acquiring, pricing, trading, mentioning pending deliveries or smuggling of drugs].'''

'''DO NOT BUY OR SELL DMT!''' We at the nexus are against selling/profiting with this incredible substance. We do not know and we do not want to know how much it costs in the street, we do not want it to be sold on the streets! This is not only disrespectful and shows a lack of understanding about the power of this substance, but its also a liability for the whole community. Dealing/trading DMT can attract the attention of authorities and create a problem not only for yourself but for all others in the community.

'''Talking about DMT sales or trade will result in suspension from the forum!'''

All the reasons why we dont believe in it are listed in the thread below

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3414 Street Value of DMT (and why you should never sell it) ]

== DMT Extraction ==

=== Where to start? ===

There are several ways of extracting DMT, and different ways use different chemicals and take different time. It is recommended that before embarking on extracting, one reads up at least a couple of different teks (link on the bottom) to understand the processes.

The basics of an extraction is:

DMT is present in many plant materials and can be isolated through simple processes. Most commonly used plant is [[Mimosa hostilis]] root bark, but there are other plants with good alkaloid profile such as certain Acacias and certain strains of [[Phalaris spp.]]

DMT in an acidic solution is in salt form and therefore water soluble, while DMT in a basic solution becomes a freebase and not water soluble but rather soluble in non-polar solvents (like limonene, naphtha, xylene, etc). This works similarly to most other alkaloids, with a few exceptions, for example harmalas freebase dont dissolve in the solvents mentioned above, but when you add a base to a solution containing harmalas, they just precipitate and you can filter them.

Back to DMT, non-polar solvents separate from water like oil, it stays as a layer on top. By playing with the pH (adding an acid or a base) you make the dmt move from one place to the other while most of other impurities dont, and then you separate the layers by pippeting/separatory funnel/decanting, and then retrieve the dmt from the non-polar solvent by evaporating it or freeze-precipitating (putting it in a closed container in the freezer, and as the temperature goes down the solubility of dmt in the solvent diminishes, so after some hours dmt precipitates and can be retrieved). There are differences depending on the process of extraction you use (for example limonene can't be evaporated and neither freeze precipitated, it's usually salted, as described in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB], but that is, in a very general way, how it works.

There are some new developed teks for extracting dmt with food-safe materials and/or no petro-chemical solvents, such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] , [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Nontoxic_Approach_to_Spice_Extraction Amor Fati's approach], or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek Q21Q21's extraction tek]. The biggest advantage is, as said, the use of relatively non-toxic material and no petrochemicals but instead solvents such as limonene, which is basically pure orange oil. The disadvantage is that to retrieve the dmt from limonene, you cannot evaporate it (as limonene doesnt evaporate cleanly, it leaves gooey residues), and freeze precipitation also doesnt work (as even in freeze temperatures, dmt is still too soluble in it so it doesnt precipitate), so there are 2 extra steps, which are to 'salt out' the limonene by mixing it with an acidic solution, evaporating that solution and then freebasing the resulting product if one wants to smoke it (or just keeping the salt for storage or oral consumption), as explained in the teks mentioned above. These steps are just as easy as any other step done in the earlier steps of the extraction but the fact that its two extra steps means some extra time and work which some people might not want.

There are also the standard STB (straight-to-base) teks that have been used a lot before the food-safe/limo teks, the two most common being [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Noman%27s_tek Noman's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Lazyman%27s_tek Lazyman Tek]. The mimosa (or whatever plant material extracted) is put straight in a basic solution from the beginning, with no acid-adding step, and hence the name. The advantage of STBs generally being that they need less steps, maybe simpler for beginners, and can usually be quicker, and the main disadvantage being the amount of lye/caustic soda they require (lye being dangerous if it spills because it causes serious chemical burns and could make one blind, though if done correctly it will not be on your final product. Also disadvantage of using much lye is it is watched in many places due to being used in meth production, so it might be suspicious to buy it, or even impossible to find, specially in some specific places of USA). Another possible disadvantage of STB teks is some people claim the final product is not as clean, its more yellow. Yellow dmt isnt necessarily a problem, though, some people even prefer it. Also, one can easily do a recrystalization (look below in the FAQ for explanation) which will effectively clean up the final product quickly and with very little solvent needed.

Then there are the A/B extractions (acid/base), such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Vovin%27s_tek Vovin's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Marsofold%27s_tek Marsofold's tek]. As the name suggests, the plant material is first simmered/boiled in acid 3x, filtered and later the base is added. The advantage being that when one is adding the base and mixing the solvent, the solids were already removed after the acid step, making it easier to mix the solvent, and easier to discard everything later. Also the acid step allows one to do a [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Defat_process Defat], though usually that is considered a wasteful way of cleaning up because it needs a lot of solvent for removing a bit of fats, which can be accomplished more efficiently with a recrystallization on the final product. The disadvantage of an A/B is that it takes longer because of the initial acid step, and if one isnt thorough enough in this acid step one will lose a lot of actives when discarding the solids before moving on to the Base step.

==== Links ====

* [[:Category:Extraction_Tek|Extraction Teks]]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1085 DMT Extraction Overview]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=318336#post318336 Art of liquid-liquid extraction - The basics]

=== What is the best tek? ===

There is no "best" tek. All teks featured in the Nexus Wiki should result in similar final product purity and yields, if correctly performed. Each tek has it's own characteristics regarding chemicals used, how long it takes, how thorough it's explained, if it includes optional clean up steps or not, etc. That is why, before deciding on one tek, it's important to read all (or at least some of them), also the "where to start" question above and the extraction overview linked there. That way you will have a better understanding of the processes instead of just blindly following a tek, which means you'll probably be more succesful with whichever tek you decide to use in the end.

=== Is my solvent/chemical OK to use? ===

Before using any solvent, one must make sure it is a clean evaporating solvent with no toxic/residual additives (or for other non-volatile chemicals used, make sure it has no toxic/unwanted additives). Always:

* Read the ingredients on the solvent's or chemical's label. Make sure it is pure with nothing appart from the desired chemical (for example: Naphtha/Aliphatic hydrocarbons)
* Google "solventbrand solvent/chemical msds", searching the brand of the solvent you have access to, to see if it has an msds, which usually contains more in depth information on what the product contains. For example "merck acetone msds". Or alternatively:
* Check the webpage linked in [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=165091#post165091 this thread] and see if your solvent and its contents is featured there
* VERY IMPORTANT: Always do an evaporating test before using a solvent for the first time: Add a quantity of the solvent to a glass/pyrex/plate (do NOT use a cd) and let it evaporate. If it leaves residues of any kind, dont use it. If it evaporates cleanly, chances are its ok to use.
* Check [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=14772 this] thread on whether your chem is ok to use or where to get the right chems.

=== Is this material or container ok to use with my chemicals? ===

The keyword to search is "Chemical compatibility" or "Chemical Resistance", plus the material and solvent/chemical you are looking for. Below are some good links to help you already find the information you want:

==== Link ====

* [http://www.nalgenelabware.com/techdata/chemical/index.asp Chemical Compatibility Search]
* [http://www.coleparmer.com/techinfo/chemcomp.asp Chemical compatibility database 2]
* [http://www.greenterpene.com/GreenTerpene_Product_Compatibility_s/48.htm Limonene compatibility chart]

=== Is plastic OK to use for my extraction? ===

In short, better not. If you are going to use anyways (NOT recommended), be sure to check what kind of plastic it is, and that its compatible with the chemicals used, as in the links of the previous question. But again, better not use plastic and only use glass, read links below for explanations why:

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=26324 Warning to those using plastic containers]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=340124#post340124 Using plastic for extractions]

=== What are the different bases one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired base.

* For [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH
* For [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH, Potassium Hydroxide/KOH
* For [[:Category:Dry_Technique|Dry tek]]: Calcium Hydroxide

=== What are the different acids one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired acid.

Plenty of different kinds of acid will work, but generally people preffer the first one on the following list:
* Vinegar (acetic acid)
* Lemon Juice (citric acid)
* Phosphoric Acid
* Hydrochloric Acid/HCl/Muriatic Acid.

NOTE: Sulfuric acid is not very well suited towards this extraction, as it reacts with lye to form sodium sulfate which is very poorly water-soluble. This may result in a generous white precipitate.

Reaction:

2NaOH + H2SO4 => Na2SO4 + 2H2O

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1556 Acids]

=== How can I convert sodium bicarbonate into sodium carbonate ===

==== Link ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Conversion_of_Sodium_Bicarbonate_into_Sodium_Carbonate Sodium bicarb -> carb conversion wiki]

=== How long each acid cook? ===

30 min - 2 hours cooks in a crockpot on low-medium (or just low fire on the stove). Some people avoid boiling and only simmer, but it appears DMT salts are very stable even at boil temperatures, so there doesnt seem to be diminishing yields when boiling. Also, it's important to stir once in a while during the acid cook.

=== How many acid cooks? ===

General consensus talks about 3 runs, 2 being minimum and 5 being over-careful.

=== Can I make one long cook instead of 3 shorter ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== Which ratio of MHRB:Lye:Water is the best? ===

For STBs, 1g MHRB:1g Lye:15ml Water is generally accepted as a good ratio. People have had success with significantly less water, but 15ml per g bark is a recommended amount because less than that might make the whole mixture too thick and it can make the separation of the solvent more difficult. Also, one actually needs much less lye but this amount of lye helps prevent emulsions forming as well helps break down the plant material so that dmt is more exposed to the water.

Alternatively, one can just add enough lye for the solution to turn completely black, and go ahead and extract. If emulsions form, add more lye. One does not need to worry about over-basifying, there's no such thing. Excess lye will stay behind in the water layer once you separate the solvent in any case.

=== Can I scale down/up the amounts stated in a tek if I want to extract different amounts of mimosa? ===

Yes, just scale the quantities proportionally according to your situation

=== Can I make one big pull instead of few smaller ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be significantly smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

==== Links ====

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== How big should the pulls be / How much to pre-evaporate before freezing? ===

100ml per pull per 200g bark (or a 2:1 ratio of bark:naphtha) is a sensible recomendation. More wont hurt but it will waste solvent as you will have to evaporate much afterwards. Less solvent per pull is even better, as long as you repeat more pulls to compensate. Sometimes people use more solvent than this recommended amount, like when for example if using this ratio in one's container the layers are too thin and it is hard to separate the solvent (though there are [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#How_to_pull_.2F_get_the_solvent_off_from_the_mix.3F tricks for better separation]). If the plan is to freeze precipitate and one uses more naphtha than the recommended amount, it is recommended to pre-evaporate the naphtha before freezing.

The amount that one should pre-evaporate depends of course on how much solvent used. The idea about pre-evap is that the solvent should be as saturated as possible with dmt so that most or all of it precipitates when put in the freezer. If its not saturated enough, then not much (or not at all) will precipitate. So if one used more than 3:1 ratio of bark:solvent, then pre-evaporate enough to reach the equivalent of it (so if one used, lets say, 100ml per 100g bark, pre evaporating till a third of original volume is recommended). [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=150095#post150095 Here's] an attempt to explain why not having it saturated enough may result in no or low yield

Later pulls will most likely be less saturated with dmt than first pulls, so for the later pulls (like lets say the 4th and 5th), it would be logical to pre-evaporate even more than the first pulls. In the example given above, instead of evaporating until a third of original volume, maybe one could evaporate until there is only a quarter or a fifth of original volume.

Some people gauge the amount of pre-evaporation by doing it until the solvent starts getting cloudy.

In any case, remember to re-use the naphtha after retrieving the crystals from precipitation, and/or evaporating it all the way down to see if there are any actives that remained in the naphtha after the freeze precipitation

If one is extracting a different plant or using a different solvent, then the ratio recommendation can change. Though in extractions that one salts out the solvent (like for example in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] and other limonene-based extractions), one can (and even should) use significantly more solvent, because all alkaloids will anyways be retrieved with the salting step.

=== The layers wont separate, what to do? ===

Possible fixes:
# Dont shake next time, if you did so! Instead, Stir/roll/turn upside down slowly, several times.
# Add more basic water/lye to the mix (either mix is not basic enough or too much plant matter for too little water)
# Make a warm water bath with the whole container (remember no fire sources near solvents, and leave top slightly open for preventing building up of pressure)
# Tapping on the side of the container/vibration (like sitting on top of washing mashine)
# Adding plenty of no-additives non-iodized salt (will make the water more polar and therefore chemically help in the separation)

====Links====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5866 Naphtha won' seperate?]

=== My Solvent is Brown/Dark, what to do ? ===

It happens for some people that after mixing the solvent with the mimosa solution, the naphtha picks up a lot of color and when the layers are separated, there is no emulsion but the naphtha is very dark, brown/burgundy. The exact reasons for this are still unknown, but it seems to happen mostly with STB extractions, powdered bark and heated pulls. It may be that there are microscopic suspended particles of the mimosa/black liquid which for some reason refuse to settle, but nobody yet knows for sure.

Considering this is not an emulsion issue (if so, it can be solved as stated [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#The_layers_wont_separate.2C_what_to_do.3F here]), this issue can be solved by:

1- Wait a few hours and see if the color settles and the solvent layer gets clearer.

2- Separate the pull as you would normally, and do a sodium carbonate wash (explanation also here in the FAQ). If the wash isnt sufficient to get the dark away, then :

3- Do a 'mini A/B' (mixing the separated dark solvent with vinegar 3x, separating the vinegar and discarding the solvent. Then basify the vinegar by adding lye, and pull with fresh solvent)

=== How to pull / get the solvent off from the mix? ===

* [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Each person finds his own way. One of the practical ways is to first, with HDPE or glass pipette/turkey baster/glass syringe, crudely separate the solvent and maybe a bit of the mimosa mix into a tall thin container. Then, with another pipette/glass syringe (or same one, washed), separate the solvent (it will be easier due to being thiner container, so solvent layer will be thicker than before) to the final container for evap or freeze precip. On this second separation, only pull out what you are sure you can do accurately, and the last bit throw back into the main container. Often people complain that the turkey baster wont hold the solvent well and will start releasing liquid as soon as you stop pulling. A [http://www.plastyshack.com/images/glass_syringe.jpg glass syringe] or pipette will work better, you can find them sold in lab/chem/medical supply stores or online in a variety of shops.

* [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Same as above, or also using a separatory funnel.

=== Should I wash my spice? ===

Washing spice has as a main function to eliminate any possible lye or other polar impurities (like droplets of the mimosa basic mix) from the final product, which might make the smoke harsher. Nevertheless, unless one was sloppy and some of the basic mimosa liquid came through to the solvent when separating, there should be nothing or very small amounts of it in your final product.

In any case if one feels better making sure the spice is cleaner (because we all know how important our mental state is in these experiences, even if its clean but if you're worried it might make the experience worse), or if one's spice is unusually harsh, then proceed to a sodium carbonate wash (DO NOT WASH WITH AMMONIA! Many people report losing yield with ammonia wash )

# Have your product still in the solvent, before evaporation/precipitation. If you have already in crystal form, redissolve in a naphtha/heptane/hexane.
# Add anywhere in between a pinch to 5 grams of sodium carbonate (yes, doesnt matter... All that is necessary is for it to be a basic solution) to 100ml clean water.
# Add your spice-containing solvent and the sodium carbonate solution together in a container. Mix/shake/whatever (emulsions will not form).
# Separate the solvent from the sodium carbonate solution using pippette/turkey baster/syphon/separatory funnel. One can repeat steps 2-4 if desired, but not strictly necessary
# Freeze precipitate or evaporate to retrieve your DMT

Remember that regardless of washing, its still very important to make sure there are no solvent traces in your spice, which can be done with thorough air drying, or redissolving your dmt in a non-toxic (or less toxic) solvent like ethanol, or pure IPA/Acetone, and evapping that again

=== No precipitation or low yield? ===

# Stir/mix and let separate the layers many times over a longer period of time before pulling the solvent out of the mix, dont just let it stand.
# Evap till theres only a quarter of the naphtha left and repeat freeze precip. If this doesnt help:
# Add more lye/base in the basic solution and try again, with small warm, thoroughly mixed pulls
# If its evapped and it seems like small amount of goo, it may actually be more than it seems because goo is heavier crystals. Recrystallize goo as FAQ instructions or infuse some herbs and weigh herbs before and after infusing to know exact yield.

Other possibilities:
* Bad mimosa/plant material
* Not the right solvent (if solvent has aromatics like xylene mixed in, it wont freeze precipitate, and will evap into a gooey product, mix of dmt and other plant impurities)

=== Melting/dissapearing crystals after freeze precipitation / Whats the best way to retrieve crystals after freezing? ===

This usually happens because of remaining solvent residues warming up and redissolving the crystals.

A trick to work around that is to freeze precipitate for a day or so (if you already have the melted crystals, then redissolve them in small amounts of warm naphtha and back into the freezer), and after crystals have precipitated, take it out of the freezer, pour the naphtha off (through coffee filter just in case any crystals are not stuck to the container), close the container and put it upside down in the freezer for some more hours. This way, any remaining naphtha trapped inside the crystals will drop off to the lid of the container on the bottom.

So after those few hours, take out out of the freezer, opening the lid still upside down so the naphtha drops off, and then you can scrape the drier crystals, put them on top of a coffee filter or on a plate/petri dish to finish air drying, and voilá.

The container used for precipitation is ideally something with a lid that closes well, like a mason jar, and that the edges and walls are straight so you can scrape it off more easily. Scrape as much as you can of the dmt, and whatever is left inside, leave it and reuse the container for the next precipitation, or if its the last precipitation of the extraction, you can use some alcohol (or even naphtha, if its clean evapping naphtha) to pick the last bits up and evaporate in a dish or easy to scrape flat-bottom wide container.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=2290 DMT crystals melting]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=72767#post72767 Question about freeze precipitation times]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3519 Yellow goo. Won't crystallize]

=== Only getting goo with Acacia extraction ===

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=39030 Getting crystals with Acacia confusa]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=440164 Enough GOO questions...]

=== How to safely heat a solvent ? ===

With the solvent safely stored far away, boil some water with any method you want. Once water is boiled, turn off heat source, get the solvent, put it in a glass and submerge the bottom of the glass on a pot containing your recently boiled water. In some seconds/minutes your solvent should be warm and you can use it for recrystallizing or pulling. NEVER warm up solvents directly with a heat source, specially no gas/open fire but even do not use electrical equipment unless it's a safe laboratory hotplate made for such purposes that will guarantee not to create sparks.

=== How does one recrystallize? ===

1- Boil some water. Turn off the fire.

2- Add your impure spice to a shotglass (weigh it before to know the amount).

3- Add around 20-30ml of naphtha/heptane/hexane per gram of impure spice to the shotglass.

4- submerge the bottom of the glass in the water. Leave it standing and/or stir it around a little bit. Most of the spice should redissolve in a few minutes, but probably a layer of goo will stay on the bottom.

5-Decant or pippette your naphtha away from the goo, put this naphtha in a clean container, close it, and into the freezer overnight for freeze precipitation. Alternatively, instead of freezing, if one wants to grow large crystals, put in a container with the lid semi-closed and/or in a place with very little air circulation, so that the naphtha evaporates very slowly. The slower the evap, the larger the crystal growth.

Its possible small amount of spice is still in the goo, so you can add another 5 or 10ml to the shotglass with the goo to pick up the last bits of dmt. This second pull will be more impure as it will pick some oils up, so freeze precipitate it separately. The goo can then be discarded

If one doesnt have a scale or for some reason cant weigh the spice, warm up a quantity of naphtha in a shotglass without the dmt and slowly add small quantities of the warm naphtha to the container containing dmt while stiring, until most dmt dissolved but a bottom layer of goo remains. Then follow step 5.
http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Can_I_make_one_long_cook_instead_of_3_shorter_ones.3F

==== Links ====

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=10545#post10545 Glass Shard Re-Crystallization Pictorial]

=== How many times can I reuse my solvent? ===

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=335995#post335995 On reusing non polar solvents]

=== What to do with the waste? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3072 What to do with the waste]

=== How Can I Extract DMT From Phalaris? ===

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phalaris_%28grass%29 Phalaris] is a genus of grasses with very variable alkaloid content, which means it's very hard or impossible to really say if a given Phalaris will have a good alkaloid content in terms of what alkaloids are present and in what amounts. Some Phalaris have very little to no DMT (or 5-MeO-DMT or Beta-Carbolines), and yet have plenty of potentially toxic alkaloids such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gramine gramine], while others have good amounts of wanted tryptamines and low gramine content. There are also tryptamines and beta-carbolines in Phalaris which have unknown activity and safety profile such as 5-MeO-NMT and others. This variability is especially the case with wild Phalaris or those grown from seeds so, for a more reliable alkaloid content, the clones of known strains such as AQ1, Big Medicine (for DMT) and Turkey Red (for 5-MeO-DMT) are probably a better bet.

'''Even though some people have reported some variable success, we do NOT recommend people to ingest a crude brew made with Phalaris grass due to the unknown amounts of possible toxic alkaloids. If using Phalaris, extract it first as mentioned below'''

If growing Phalaris yourself, [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/images/8/8a/Festiandsamorini.pdf this]publication goes over all the factors of growth that affect the alkaloid content. Please check it out. Here's some selected quotes:

* "The highest concentration (of alkaloids) is in the upper third part of the seedling leaf."
* "The total alkaloid concentration decreases with plant maturity"
* "Total alkaloids are more concentrated in the first regrowth, after the cutting or grazing, than in the first growth just after sowing, decreasing then in the following regrowths"
* "The availability of soil nitrogen increases the alkaloids concentration"
* "In soil, but not in nutrient solution cultivations, the concentration of indole alkaloids (...) increase is greater in plants supplied with ammonium nitrogen compared to the nitric source"
* "Samples of P. arundinacea growing with 20% of the full sunlight can contain an amount of DMT about twice compared to control; 5-MeO-DMT may increase up to a factor of 25"
* "DMT seems to show a maximum in the first hours of the morning, at least in shaded plants, whereas 5-MeODMT reaches a concentration peak in late morning"

Regarding the extraction itself, the plant should be extracted as soon as possible after harvesting since plant enzyme activity can break down alkaloids, even if drying the plant. If plant is not extracted immediately, it should be stored in an alcoholic solution in cold and dark. For extraction, a standard A/B could potentially work well, boiling plant material 3x in acidic water (pH anywhere from 1-6 should work), filtering, reducing to small manageable amount by low boil or simmering, and then basing with NaOH and pulling with solvent. Alternatively, a dry tek (check the nexus extraction teks wiki for more info) with calcium hydroxide or sodium carbonate could work but there haven't been enough tests to say for sure.

Regarding what solvents to use, hexane/heptane or equivalent solvents such as naphtha should work well as gramine is very poorly soluble in it, but if using naphtha make sure that it doesn't contain xylene or aromatics mixed in. Some people report specially low yields with naphtha and suggest cooking oil or room temperature limonene instead (check hippie salad oil tek link below) Cold/room temperature limonene also seems to work to separate tryptamines from gramine but more work needs to be done to make sure this separation is good enough. Check the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] for the most up-to-date info, since solubility tests on gramine are being done right now. If using naphtha or similar hydrocarbons, doing a recrystallization is a good idea to help removing other unwanted alkaloids that may have come across. Using less selective solvents like DCM, xylene, toluene or others (or acetone or alcohols in a dry tek) would pull the potentially toxic unwanted alkaloids, so its not recommended to use those, unless you do a clean up at the end

If you extract from Phalaris, we would be very thankful if you document the process (notes and/or pictures) and post so that we all can learn about the results, whether they are good or not. Please try smoking/ingesting only a very small amount at first if you do. Ideally, purchase colorimetric reagents such as marquis or ehrlich to help identifying the final product if it contains the wanted alkaloids (more info in the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] )

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=44863 Hippie salad oil tek v 2]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=16810&p=7 Phalaris way of the future thread]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=28869 PDF on processing phalaris]

=== Can I use another solvent like xylene after having pulled with naphtha? ===

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359465#post359465 Can SWIM Use Dif Solvents To Extract Different Ranges of Spice?]

== DMT Usage/Methods of administration ==

=== Is my spice ok to smoke? ===

Often people ask in the forum if their spice is ok to smoke, followed by a picture or description of the dmt's appearance. Nevertheless, there are several other variables which simple color does not tell, and which are essential to decide whether one shoud or not smoke it. Please check link below for detailed information:

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=11715 IMPORTANT: spice color purity fallacy AKA is your dmt ok to smoke ? ]

=== How to brew ayahuasca or analogues (mimosa hostilis / syrian rue)? ===

The standard way of brewing is to first of all have the material powdered/grinded or pounded as fine as possible. Then
* 1- boil on low fire (or simmer) the plant material for around three hours (some people do even longer but not necessary unless material is too coarsely shredded.. Also energetic/ecological costs become higher). Use mineral or distilled water ideally, some tap water can have too high pH and diminish yields/potency. Use enough water to cover the plant material.
* 2- filter/strain the brew to separate the liquids and solids, store the liquid separately,
* 3- add fresh water to the solids and boil everything again. Do this for a total of 3 or 4 times,
* 4- put the liquid from the 3 or 4x boils together, keep filtered/decanted solids separately for stp 6,
* 5- reduce the liquid on low fire/simmer to a manageable ammount, like for example 70ml per dose (dosages/amounts of each plant in [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this thread]

OPTIONAL:
* 6- If you want to be very thorough and get all the alkaloids out, you can now soak the plant material in vinegar for a day, then freeze and thaw it, then boil it for another hour or two. This should have a significant amount of alkaloids, which can either be extracted by basing and filtering like the Easy Caapi Extraction Tek, and the alkaloids added to the main brew (or consumed separately in some other occasion), or you could also consume this orally directly but due to the vinegar it will taste very bad, so it's better to at least base it with sodium carbonate slowly until it stops bubbling and/or reaches a pH of around 6, and then it will taste better.

The MAOI containing plant (banisteriopsis caapi vine or syrian rue) can be boiled together with the DMT containing plant (psychotria viridis or mimosa hostilis, or just add some extracted dmt in appropriate dosage to the caapi/rue brew), but specially if its the first time with a particular plant batch, its recommended to brew separately the two, and first find out the potency of the plant by drinking first a small amount.

An acid can be added to the brew (such as a dash of lemon or vinegar), but this is not strictly necessary (and neither the traditional indigenous way), specially if your plant is finely powdered, because alkaloids in the plant are naturally in water-soluble form. Though acid can increase the potency of the brew (specially for non-powdered plant material), it will also make it taste worse. To get the best out of all the worlds, its recommended to do step 6, so you have a better tasting brew without acid, but you still get any remaining alkaloids at the end in the final acid soak.

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8972 all about aya <3 ]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=51 Ayahuasca subforum]
* [[Ayahuasca using Syrian Rue & Acacia confusa]]

=== Whats the best smoking method? ===

The [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] gives some tips not only on vaporizing methods but other tips, check it out.

Different people preffer different methods. FORGET THE LIGHTBULB METHOD as it only works for a small percentage of people, most report problems.

-
==== '''Vaporgenie''' ====

A big number of people in the Nexus claim the vaporgenie to be the best vaporizing method by far! The vaporgenie is claimed to be significantly more effective as well as having a much smoother vapor than other smoking methods so if one is having trouble with harsh smoke or low effects, try the vaporgenie out. The Glass VaporGenie is recommended but otherwise the classic one will work perfectly fine.

The first thing if you're vaporizing pure DMT, is to get a [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=42867 ceramic disc] or a volcano liquid pad and cut it up to fit the vaporgenie, otherwise the DMT will melt through the screens, even if it's multiple screens. Check the vaporgenie thread linked below for more details

Begin with the flame a few cms above the top and adjust as you go. With empty lungs, start inhaling slowly and steady. The idea is to inhale a dense vapour, but not too dense so that you start coughing. Its better to begin the inhaling with a not so dense smoke, and then make it denser towards the end. Keep the vapor in the lungs for as long as possible, at least 10 seconds. If you coughed or exhaled before this or couldnt inhale with all the lungs, try keeping the flame further away or adjusting the speed of inhaling so that its a bit less dense.

Usually it takes anywhere between 1-3 hits, or anywhere between 25-50mg for a full breakthrough, if you got your technique right. A torch lighter is recommended, but a normal lighter will also work fine.

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=39961#post39961 VG VaporGenie: How to use, where to get, advantages, etc]

- If you cant or dont want to afford a vaporgenie, a good possibility is to make your own vaporization tool like:

===='''amorfati's Inspirator MKII'''====

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8985 Link to how to build/use the Inspirator mKII]

For a vaporization to be really effective, the DMT should be heated by convection (hot air), not conduction (hot glass/pipe/material), so vaporgenie and inspirator are recommended. If you dont want to use these methods, there are other possibilities which are less effective and risk burning DMT instead of just vaporizing, but it does work decently enough for many people:

===='''- Bong/leaf bed/enhanced leaf'''====

One method also considered successful by some is in a water bong (or plain bong), with a couple of metal screens, a thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on the bottom, then the dmt in the middle, and then another thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on top.
It is essential to go very easy on the fire, because too much heat will degrade DMT. Keep the lighter as far away as possible so that it still vaporizes but doesnt over-heat your DMT
50mg seems to be a good dose if one wants to really go inside the dmt dimension. Inhale slowly and deeply, holding in the lungs as much as possible (at least a few seconds), exhaling, and then taking a second, third one if possible, and even fourth one if one still can. Even if after the first there are already some effects, if one really wants to breakthrough, gotta keep going as much as one can.

Specifically for enhanced leaf check link below

====''' The Machine'''====

Check links below

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=39961#post39961 VG VaporGenie: How to use, where to get, advantages, etc]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6014 Helps and tips for smoking spice]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=280594 My version of the "Machine" - How to make it in <15 minutes]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6131 Ban the Bulb - Modify the Machine]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to enhanced leaf changa]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5633 Thoughts on using a VaporGenie]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6317 Troubles with The Machine]

=== I dont get any effects/light buzz only, what to do? ===

99% of the times, when people do not get effects, they are having a bad vaporization method, most likely burning the sspice. Try one of the methods above, and considering it is dmt and one smokes it right, it should work. Other possibility is that one has a very impure product with too much plant oils and so on. One can perform one or more recrystalizations to get a purer product that is easier to weight accurately and vaporize, and then try methods above.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=86732#post86732 Trouble Breaking Through???]

=== Fear going into a trip ===

If you're afraid of dark things coming from inside of you and are not willing to face them, you should not consume any psychedelics at all...

If you're afraid but willing to face them, then that's another thing.

And whether it's changa, pharma, or aya or vaporized DMT, it doesn't matter much, those dark things can come out with one or the other.

A low dosage may help, yes, and so can a proper set and setting, but this is no guarantee you won't be facing what you fear the most. It can, and most likely will happen at some point, whether now or after a certain number of experiences. Whenever we take psychedelics, it's as if we sign a contract saying we accept all those possibilities. So think well before signing, and if you do sign, make sure to get all the preparations right before the time come, take it in a proper context and to humbly accept whatever may come, take responsibility for it, and learn from it.

==== Link ====

*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=470491#post470491 Suddenly concerned]

=== Denied breakthrough / Dark DMT trips / Not good experiences anymore ? ===

It happens with several people that they feel they aren't getting good experiences anymore, that the trips are consistently of dark motifs, negative feelings, or that the breakthrough is denied, regardless of dosage. There isn't a ready answer for why this happens, but it seems a few factors may be related to it. In many cases, this happens when people are having a regular or excessive DMT use, or when they haven't been dedicating enough to their daily lives, to [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration integration] of the experiences. Also, it may have in some cases to do with the intentions one sets before vaporizing the DMT, and with how one's mind state and the context in general is.

So a few tips on how to deal with this issue:

1- Take a break! The DMT hyperspace will always be there, there is no rush to go right now! Stop your DMT usage (and maybe drug usage altogether), dedicate to daily life, live a balanced healthy life, eat well, exercise, study, work. Do not obsess about DMT, try to only come back once you feel you have really made enough effort in improving your daily life. At least a few months break is recommended.

2- If and once you do decide to try it again, make sure it is a good place and time for it. Take care with using in the best set and setting possible (look further down the FAQ for recommended setting).

3- Do not smoke it impulsively. Meditate or spend a few minutes in silence, concentrating, breathing deeply and slowly.

4- Set your intentions straight. Question yourself why you are doing this. Try to have the best intentions and reasons as possible.

5- Use a good smoking method such as the vaporgenie or others as recommended above.

6- If it still doesnt work out for you, take an even longer break (many months/years), and/or stop it altogether. Realize that maybe DMT is just not for you. Its not a problem to admit one's relationship with a substance is not working, in fact, it shows you're being humble and conscious.

==== Link ====

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration Health and Safety section: Integration]
* [http://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=169680#post169680 what happened to the bright side?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=13515 Vaporized DMT not having an effect in those who it has worked for previously]

=== What are the dosages for ... ? ===

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 Dosages and different forms of ingestion]

=== What is the best setting/context to consume spice? ===

Check [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] for some tips on setting, preparation and also integration

* A comfortable quiet place is generally recommended. If there are friends around they should be requested to remain quiet while someone is embarking on this experience and only start speaking once the explorer talks himself and allows others. Possibility of telefone ringing or street noises or other interruptions is definitely NOT recommended.
* The presence of music or not depends a lot on personal taste. Some prefer full silence to 'concentrate' more deeply and mention that any stimulus keeps them too grounded in usual reality, while others can have very deep interconnected experiences with certain music of their own preference (often being some kind of chill out/ambient/ethno ).
* Many people preffer full darkness or indirect lighting, but sunset or sunrise in a nice nature place (if safe) can also be marvelous.
* Obviously '''DO NOT''' have sharp objects around, smoke next to cliffs, driving etc...
* It is very rare, but it may happen that one feels nauseated and/or vomits, so specially first times or those doing alone, its also recommended to have a bucket nearby, and to sit comfortably, resting the back against something soft in a way that you wont slip or fall, such as an armchair, bed with backrest/pillows or comfortable sofa.
* While we are not aware of any deaths, it would be irresponsible to discount the possibility that blocking your airway while deep in hyperspace could prove fatal, so be in a position/place where you are safe even if not conscious of the surroundings. During traditional ayahuasca ceremonies participants sit on the floor or in a comfortable chair. We recommend sitting upright (slightly reclined for stability) comfortably because the launch is far more immediate and surprising with vaporised DMT. Think of it as your pilot seat- you wouldn't fly a plane any other way!
* If you do not have a sitter to take the pipe from you, be sure that you have a safe and easy place very near to put it down when you feel hyperspace approaching. You will not be inclined to move your hand very far, so we would recommend a fireproof shelf of sorts less than a foot away. Just smoking cigarettes in bed kills many people every year, and obviously the same dangers are relevent with DMT. We have heard one report of a member who returned from an unenjoyable trip to find that she had dropped the pipe onto her leg, resulting in a nasty burn.
* Prior meditation or at least focusing on intention and inner calm can be benefiting.
* Remember to let go, dont struggle. Its normal that the hearbeat accelerates in the come up. Some people fear they are dying or that they wont return, but dont worry FOR SURE you come back, as it has happened with everybody else. Some people feel that they lose their breath, but its just a feeling.. As long as the airway is not physically blocked, then dont worry our body has a built-in mechanism that prevents one from stopping breathing.
* Dont be scared, entities cant hurt you in real life if you dont believe it. Try to not make 'good/bad' judgements during the experience, dont resist!! Just go with the flow of the ride. Some images may appear positive, negative, incredible, impossible to describe, etc, but you are safe regardless of what comes.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5900 Favourite setting for smoking DMT]

=== What about other ingestion methods (intranasal, intrarectal, Atomizer/E-cig etc) ? ===

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods Ingestion Methods]

=== Can DMT be IVed? ===

It can, but we do not recommend it mainly for two reasons:

1- The only official research done with DMT by Rick Strassmann used FDA-approved very pure DMT fumarate. The quality of home extraction products might be questionable, one may have solvent traces and other impurities that could be uncomfortable, painful or downright dangerous to inject.

2- The onset of the effects are so quick that one might not be able to take out the needle in time and accidentally ripping their vein out while in hyperspace, or putting it down too near and rolling around/puncturing oneself

If one still decides to do it, then please: Use food-safe/USP grade chemicals to extract, take care in making many purifying steps (several recrystallizations/washes) and making sure it has no solvent or other chemical traces in the final product (redissolving the recrystallized product in USP grade acetone or ethanol and re-evaporating, scrapping and letting it dry completely before converting to fumarates in a sterile solution, etc.). Check the first link below for tips on how to prepare for injection and safety proceedures

Also, for the first try, take at most 0.2mg/kg, preferably less. And VERY importantly, [[do NOT do it by yourself]], have a sitter that is experienced with needles inject for you and be there to make sure you are physically safe.

==== Links ====

* [http://www.hipforums.com/newforums/showpost.php?p=6347899&postcount=5 Entheogen Review article on safe injection proceedure]
* [http://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4128 iv dmt]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1521 IV DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3016 IV DMT?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=144148 Injecting DMT]
* [http://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=7450 FASA safe for injection?]

=== How can I estimate the amount of mimosa? ===

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=236540#post236540 Estimating mimosa amount]

== DMT/Plant storage ==

=== Does DMT go bad? ===

The main degradation product of dmt seems to be dmt n-oxide, which is also psychoactive. Some people enjoy and find qualitative difference in n-oxide compared to dmt. On the other hand, other people report negative experiences with old spice, but it is unknown how much is self-suggestion and how much is really true. The rate at which dmt converts to n-oxide logically depends on factors such as air exposure and temperature, but so far there havent been any quantitative tests to tell how fast it goes in a given condition.

In any case, n-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

Many people convert the freebase to dmt fumarate for storage, as its claimed to be a more stable salt.

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1553 DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=302112#post302112 DMT oxidation rate]

=== Does mimosa go bad? ===

Generally mimosa should not go bad even after months/years. If it looks fine and doesnt have some mutant fungus growing on it, its perfect :) There are reports of people using mimosa that was for many months or even years in a drawer without any significant problem (though as with anything, its always more prudent to store in dark, dry, cold place).

The main possible degradation is of dmt into dmt n-oxide. Dmt n-oxide is also psychoactive, but it is not soluble in naphtha, which may cause some people to get small yields when extracting from older bark. N-oxide is soluble in limonene/xylene/toluene/etc, so one could extract it with those solvents without loss of yield. Alternatively, N-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

For oral usage of mimosa, formation of n-oxide wouldnt really affect much as it will be water soluble so one will still get the effects when consuming the brew.

==== Links ====
* [[DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3570 How long should MHRB keep]

=== Whats the best way to store DMT? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

In any case, one can also convert to dmt fumarate which is a very stable salt form of dmt

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4482 Long-term storage]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4867 How to store DMT for longest]

=== Whats the best way to store Mimosa? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

Logically, bark in pieces will keep better than when powdered

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1488 Storing mimosa hostilis]

== DMT Allies ==

=== What is jungle spice ? ===

http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359543#post359543
Jungle Spice is the product resulting from an extraction of mimosa hostilis using a solvent more polar than naphtha (such as xylene, toluene, limonene, ether, DCM, etc). Sometimes people also call it JimJam, which was first called only for limonene extracted products, but analysis shown it to be equivalent to what is extracted with xylene. Chemical analysis has shown that both naphtha as well as xylene/limonene extract mostly DMT (around 90%), plus around or under 1% 2-methy-1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-beta-carboline (2MTHBC) and NMT. The psychoactivity of 2MTHBC is unknown at this point, and NMT does appear to be psychoactive, though a quarter of the potency of DMT. Appart from these mentioned alkaloids, Xylene, when evaporated, and both limonene or xylene, when salted with an acidic solution like vinegar or FASW, also yield around 0.2% MTHBC (tetrahydroharman), and what could be 1,2-dimethyl-tetrahydrobetacarboline or a yuremamine degradation product (as suggested by dozuki in the jungle spice analysis thread linked below). Very little to nothing is known about these two 'extra' beta-carbolines in junglespice/jimjam, if they are psychoactive or can potentiate DMT.

Some people claim jungle spice to be stronger or produce a different experience than pure DMT. This may be self-suggestion (people thinking it is stronger/different therefore feeling it), it may be that the inactive oils/impurities present in jungle spice somehow protect DMT from heat, making a more effective vaporization, and therefore feel stronger. It may also be that the beta carbolines together, have a synergistic effect with DMT making a stronger experience, or it may be that these beta carbolines would only really be noticeable if they were in a larger quantity as is the case with some Acacias. It may be a mixture of any or all of the above possibilities.

Only further testing (such as blind self-experiments and more analysis) will help us isolating the variables and answer the questions on junglespice's activity

For more information on jungle spice, check the links below

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1115 Jungle Spice]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=10553 Jungle Spice chemical analysis]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23544 Entheogenic effects of NMT]

=== What is changa / How to make changa ? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Changa Changa WIKI]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to DMT enhanced leaf (changa)] thread
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=27537 How does your changa looks like ?] thread

=== What type of caapi/ayahuasca vine should I use, what are the differences ? ===

Different ethnobotanical suppliers seem to stock different varieties of caapi. Often they use color names (for example black caapi, white caapi, etc), or other names used by local / mestizos / indigenous people (caupuri, ourinhos, etc). The problem is that there is no consensus regarding the classification of different caapi vines, so some indigenous people may recognize 2 types, in another tribe they may recognize 10 types, and so on. These types may overlap or they may even be in contradiction with each other. Also botanists would not necessarily agree with those types, as sometimes classification from indigenous people is not based on how a plant looks, but also on its effects, purpose, etc. In fact, some of what is sold as "black/red/whatever caapi" may even be of a different genus/species altogether (more discussion on this on links below)

There is an ongoing analysis project going on with different caapi/ayahuasca vines (link below), and it seems some caapis have very similar alkaloid/chemical component even if they have different names, while others may have quite different content even if they are named the same. The difference can be in ratio of alkaloids or total alkaloid yield, for example some black caapi from one vendor yielded over 2% alkaloids, a black caapi from another vendor yielded 0.5%.

Regarding the type/function/effects of different caapis, at this point any conclusions and generalizations are not possible. As an example, at times it's said that black caapi is used for more witchcraft kind of rituals by some shamans, but this doesnt mean that: a- that particular group is "correct", b-that other groups would agree with what they call "black caapi", c- That the black caapi you find is equivalent to that, d- that you cant use it for another purpose and have a great experience regardless.

It may be that there is a pattern between alkaloid content of different caapi vines (some may have more harmaline, or more THH, etc), but at this point we cannot yet say. Also even if a correctly identified subtype of caapi would have a specific alkaloid content, we would still have to make the assumption that the vendors are actually identifying correctly.

If you want to decide what type of caapi to get, one thing you could do is check the suppliers section and see if this specific caapi from the specific vendor has been reviewed, and dont believe in generalizations (all caapi "X" is strong and gives dark trips, all caapi "Y" is light and for beginners). Start with low dosage (10-20g) for the first time to gauge the strenght of this particular batch you have acquired, and then raise the dosage accordingly if necessary.

Another thing to do is to buy at least 2 different types and then take them in separate occasions, and then sharing the results with the community, and that way we all grow together.

Do check the links below as they have very relevant discussions regarding the different caapi types:

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29967 Caapi analysis thread]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32018 Poorly understood family of ayahuasca vines]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=30106 tetrapterys methystica (painted caapi) and other kinds of caapi]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=325495#post325495 Which caapi should I get ?]

== Plant sources ==

=== What are the best DMT-containing plants in my area ? ===

One good way to check what DMT plants you have around you is to look at the Nexus Wiki lists for [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT plants containing DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT] ) . Then use the search function of [http://www.discoverlife.org discoverlife page] or [http://bonap.org/genera-list.html bonap] to search the plants names and see in the species map if any of the good candidates grow near you, or alternatively, you can first identify the plants growing around you and search for their scientific name on the mentioned wiki lists.

If you don't find any plants growing around you, you can consider cultivating some ideal plants yourself, for example checking out the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=38229 Top Acacias To Grow Worldwide Thread] for the mid-long term, or getting known cuttings of phalaris with good alkaloid content such as AQ1 and big medicine (for more info check all the links in the first post of the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]) which can be harvested pretty quick

=== Does this plant contain DMT ? ===

Often people ask in the forum if the plant they have growing around them contains DMT. Then they might post pictures of the plants and expect an identification. Before that is done, the person asking needs to do some basic things:

1- Look up the information to know the plants that contain interesting alkaloids. The best resources are the Nexus wiki of plants containing [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT].

If it's an Acacia, read the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Acacia information thread] and if it's a Phalaris read the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]. Those threads contain information on seed suppliers, geographic location, season of harvest, conditions of growth and variation in alkaloid content, etc, which the person should become familiar with.

2-The person should try to identify the local plants based on the information in the above links. Posting picture of random plants without at least having some clue on what they could be, will only make everybody's life much harder. Look up images of suspected plants and compare, see in what they may differ.

3- Take detailed pictures of the different plant parts (overall plant, leaf close up front and back, seedpods and flower close ups if they are there). Often to differentiate between species the details are important, so blurry bad quality pictures or single pictures with no close ups or details of different plant parts are not enough.

4- Post your ID request in the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=358663#post358663 Acacia ID thread] if it's a suspected Acacia, or make a new thread if it's a differen't plant. Be sure to say what plant you think it is, and include information such as general geographic area, the detailed pics above, and any possible differences you may have seen with the plant you think it is.

5- If your plant gets identified and you plan on harvesting, please only harvest sustainably! Check [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=344487#post344487 this] post for more information

=== Links ===

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33512 Guide to Researching Psychoactive Plants: Resource List]'''

'''[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Containing_Plants WIKI -> DMT Containing Plants]'''

'''[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Botanicals WIKI -> Botanicals]'''

'''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=369566#post369566 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa ID stuff.zip]'''

'''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33648 Acacia Identification Thread]'''

'''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Trying to improve Acacia information]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia ID stuff.zip]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Phalaris.zip Phalaris.zip]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=34525 Phalaris/other grass types ID thread]'''

'''[http://www.erowid.org/plants/phalaris/phalaris_images.shtml Erowid.org -> Phalaris Grass Images]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=173732#post173732 help identifying Phalaris arundinacea]'''

'''[http://extension.entm.purdue.edu/caps/pestInfo/reedCanaryGrass.htm extension.entm.purdue.edu -> Reed Canary Grass]'''

.

== Reference ==
<references/>

FAQ - DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide

2014-08-07T16:07:36Z

Cosmic Spore: /* What is DMT, Where do I learn the basics? */

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of the 'DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide'<ref>DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide
[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6341]</ref>.}}

== DMT overview ==

=== What is DMT, Where do I learn the basics? ===

DMT is a naturally occuring substance, present in trace amounts in normal human metabolism (and its purpouse is unknown, check question [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Is_it_true_the_pineal_gland_produces_DMT_naturally_and_is_involved_in_dreaming.3F 2.1] , as well as in a variety of plants and animals.

It can be extracted from some of these plants and smoked for some very strong psychedelic/entheogenic effects lasting 10 minutes. It can also be taken orally, but we have an enzyme (MAO) in our stomach that destroys dmt if taken orally, so for taking orally DMT must be acompanied by a substance that inhibits this enzyme (MAOI, or MAO Inhibitor), which is also present in some other plants.

Ayahuasca, a sacred drink used by indigenous people of the Amazon, is an example of a drink made from a dmt-containing plant (Psychotria viridis), together with a MAOI containing plant (Banisteriopsis caapi), that is drank orally for a psychedelic/entheogenic experience lasting around 4 hours.

When smoking, we do not need to use MAOI because we do not have MAOs in our lungs. Nevertheless, some people like to also ingest MAOIs before vaporizing DMT, or vaporizing a MAOI together with the DMT (such as in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ_-_DMT_Frequently_Asked_Questions_and_Troubleshooting_Guide#What_is_changa_.2F_How_to_make_changa_.3F changa]), to make the experience last longer.

For learning more about DMT, this whole webpage is dedicated to it. Here's a few links

==== Links ====

* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dimethyltryptamine Wikipedia DMT Link]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/ The Dmt Nexus Wiki]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ Frequently Asked Questions]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=forum Main Dmt Nexus Forum]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Abbreviations.htm Abbreviations and their meanings]

=== Are there different types of DMT? ===

DMT can be in salt form or in freebase form. A salt form means the DMT is attached to an acid molecule. DMT is naturally in salt form in the plants because of plant acids (for example dmt tannate or oxalate due to tannic or oxalic acid being present in some plants). When people extract DMT, they can make it in freebase form to smoke, because DMT in salt form can't be smoked, it has high boiling point and breaks down instead of vaporizing efficiently. Some salt forms like DMT fumarate can even be toxic to smoke due to creation of maleic anhydride during combustion.

Appart from being naturally in brews made of DMT containing plants like ayahuasca, DMT can also be made into salt for, for example DMT fumarate, when people extract it, because DMT fumarate is stable and can be stored for long, and it can be taken orally or intranasally. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods this] for more info. Regarding dosages in different salt forms, one can read [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this] thread. Each salt form of DMT have their own weight depending on the acid molecule weight (for example DMT fumarate's weight is around 76% DMT, 24% fumaric acid), so dosages could be adjusted proportionately to the amount of DMT when ingesting, but since each person is differently sensitive to DMT and since salt form may be a bit more effective to ingest orally, this "salt weight calculation" is not really necessary for DMT, one can just ingest according to [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 these] recommendations, starting low for first time, and adjusting according to own sensitivity and batch the next time.

There are other molecules which have the DMT structure built into them but they are not DMT, they have structural modifications, for example 4-HO-DMT also known as psilocin and 4-PO-DMT, psilocybin, the active compounds in mushrooms, which are different molecules altogether with their own particular effects. Small modifications in molecules can completely change effects. So psilocybin, psilocin, 5-MeO DMT, and 5-HO-DMT (bufotenine), plus others, are all different molecules, they are NOT the same as DMT. Each of them has different effects, pharmacology, etc etc. On the other hand, DMT freebase or DMT in salt form (tannate, acetate, fumarate) are all DMT.

== DMT Chemistry and Body ==

=== Is it true the pineal gland produces DMT naturally and is involved in dreaming and death? What does DMT do in the body? ===

At this point there is no evidence to support the claim that DMT is produced in the pineal or brain. It is a speculation raised by Dr Rick Strassman due to his previous interest in the pineal. So far in humans, the key enzymes necessary for this have [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=5549 not been found present in the human brain], therefore it seem more likely it is produced elsewhere in the body, though some recent research has shown in primates these enzymes are present in pineal gland. In any case nothing is really proven yet so we must avoid making claims before more data comes in.

The supposed connection of DMT and dreams, and the idea that DMT is released when we die, both are speculation with no real evidence to back them up.

It IS proven, though, for decades already, that DMT is produced in the human body and is present at all times in trace amounts, for unknown functions (which could be several functions, see last link below).

==== Links ====

*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18834 Zero proof DMT is made in the brain]
*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=295746#post295746 I dislike the "DMT is responsible for your dreams" theory]
*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18394 Rethinking DMT and the Pineal Gland]
*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18448 The functions of DMT in our body: If DMT would be a neurotransmitter]

=== Is DMT dangerous? ===

Researches have been made showing the relative safety of dmt. It does not cause physical damage, addiction, and any tolerance disappears very quickly. Ayahuasca, the dmt-containing brew from the Amazon, has been studied by multidisciplinary groups in Brazil and other countries and was shown that in a careful context, it presents no negative cognitive/psychiatric/social consequences, even in adolescents.

There is yet little research into vaporized dmt, but there seems to be no sign that it is in any way more dangerous physically than other administration forms. There are no reported deaths from smoking DMT. Smoking it will not lead to a dangerous overdose because the onset is so quick that one can only inhale a certain amount before being gone to ´hyperspace', without being able to smoke more until one is down again.

However:
* People with extreme heart or other conditions for whom strong emotions could be dangerous are contra-indicated, just like a roller coaster would for them.
* It is important to notice that with any psychedelic, it is a very powerful emotional/mental experience, so those with personal or family psychiatric history, unstable emotionally or going through some very difficult moments in life should be extremely careful.
* Also, it is possible that during the experience, one temporarily loses orientation in the consensus reality, so smoking/ingesting next to a cliff, sharp objects, etc, is not a good idea. BE IN A PHYSICALLY SAFE ENVIRONMENT!
* DO NOT use MAOIs (so for example an ayahuasca brew) together with stimulants or SSRI medication

Appart from that, there are psychological issues to be considered. Please read the health and safety section linked below, as well as the scientific articles also linked below.

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety Health And Safety Section]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1441 Scientific Articles on DMT/Ayahuasca/Psychedelics]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4400 Long term effects of smoking DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5843 DMT After-Effects]

=== Is a MAOI diet / Ayahuasca fasting necessary? What kind of dangers are there with medication interaction? ===

Unlike some pharmaceutical MAOI, the Harmalas, alkaloids present in the caapi vine and syrian rue are reversible inhibitors of MAO-A, while Tyramine, the component in some food that could cause problems in big amounts, is eliminated partly by MAO-A and but also partly by the intact MAO-B ([http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 source] ). Also for some pharmacological reason as shown in [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_fig9big.jpg this] diagram, tyramine can still be partly metabolized by MAO-A even during the harmala effects.

In other words, in terms of '''food''' interaction, the danger with reversible MAOI use (in for example ayahuasca or pharmahuasca with harmalas) and food interaction is very reduced. The necessity of the very strict dieting for ayahuasca with extensive list of what one must absolutely not eat is an exaggeration, though it is advised to eat light because extreme amounts of tyramine in some specific foods could theoretically still be a potential problem.

There seem to be no reports of actual life-threatening events with tyramine-containing foods and harmalas. There are even people that purposely ate tyramine-containing foods with no ill effects, but there have also been reports of negative symptoms such as very strong headaches and negative body load when mixing a heavy food consumption before/during/after harmala consumption. Several other variables may also be involved that are unrelated to tyramine and harmala-food interaction (variables such as for example exhaustion from the trip, vasodilation, the body/ayahuasca telling the person to 'eat better' in general, etc). Headaches seem specially common when mixing beer and harmalas.

In any case, it is generally considered common sense to eat light before and after the use of ayahuasca and analogues (and psychedelics in general). Just follow your good sense and you should be fine. To eer on the side of caution, the food to avoid eating (or over-eating) is aged or fermented food specially aged cheese, fermented or smoked meat (fish included) and soy products (though some soy products have also been found to have little tyramine content). Beer should also be avoided as some people have experienced negative interaction between MAOIs and beer. Apart from that, there are no real restrictions, eat lightly and all should be good :)

In relation to how long to wait after the last food before taking ayahuasca, this is very personal. Some like to have empty stomach and be fasting for 6 or more hours, but this is not necessary, and others feel it is even negative to fast for so long, because a too empty stomach might make one very tired during the ceremony, specialy at the end, and can also make purging a specially difficult or uncomfortable experience. Some consider better to have eaten something light (like some fruits or cereal or light sandwhich) a couple of hours before ingesting ayahuasca/analogues.

Remember: With the exception of moclobemide, which stands in the same category as harmalas as far as reversibility and food interaction goes, avoid all other pharmaceutical MAOIs !! Pharmaceutical irreversible MAOIs are VERY dangerous to take without taking strong precautions with food and drug interaction.

'''What IS dangerous is interaction between any MAOIs (including harmalas) and stimulants or some medication''' such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_serotonin_reuptake_inhibitor SSRI] medication such as prozac, or stimulants such as amphetamines or others. If you're taking SSRI's, do not consume MAOIs!! Do not mix stimulants with MAOIs either! Mixing stimulants/SSRIs with MAOIs can cause Serotonin Syndrome which may lead to convulsions or even death. For pharmaceuticals and substances that should NEVER be taken when consuming harmalas, check [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 1] and [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 2]

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29131 Do you experience tyramine interaction with harmalas?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5711 Will smoked Rue cause MAOI?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5398 Think iv cracked it]
* [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=tyramine%20food%20table&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CFMQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fddr.nal.usda.gov%2Fbitstream%2F10113%2F7351%2F1%2FIND43817287.pdf&ei=PpvsT8zAEsXAhAehj-nPBQ&usg=AFQjCNGKR57Q_VTqzOjKxfvKbu0kDTB8Ng&cad=rja Scientific publication on food containing tyramine]
* [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 scientific publication on interaction of MAOIs and tyramine]

== DMT and Society ==

=== Is dmt legal? ===

Posession and sales of DMT in its pure extracted/synthesized form is illegal, schedule 1 in USA and controlled by United Nations and can land you in jail if found in most countries.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/dmt/dmt_law.shtml Erowid DMT Law Vault]

=== '''Are the natural ingredients such as mimosa, and ayahuasca, illegal?''' ===

'''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=21527 On the Legal Status of DMT Source Plants in the US (with a discussion of the religious use defense)]'''

==== Links ====

* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/ayahuasca/ayahuasca_law.shtml Erowid Ayahuasca Law Vault]
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/plants/mimosa/mimosa_law.shtml Erowid Mimosa Law Vault]

=== Whats the price of dmt / Can I trade dmt? ===

'''[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Attitude_Page#No_discussion_on_selling.2C_buying.2C_sourcing.2C_acquiring.2C_pricing.2C_trading.2C_mentioning_pending_deliveries_or_smuggling_of_drugs No discussion on selling, buying, sourcing, acquiring, pricing, trading, mentioning pending deliveries or smuggling of drugs].'''

'''DO NOT BUY OR SELL DMT!''' We at the nexus are against selling/profiting with this incredible substance. We do not know and we do not want to know how much it costs in the street, we do not want it to be sold on the streets! This is not only disrespectful and shows a lack of understanding about the power of this substance, but its also a liability for the whole community. Dealing/trading DMT can attract the attention of authorities and create a problem not only for yourself but for all others in the community.

'''Talking about DMT sales or trade will result in suspension from the forum!'''

All the reasons why we dont believe in it are listed in the thread below

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3414 Street Value of DMT (and why you should never sell it) ]

== DMT Extraction ==

=== Where to start? ===

There are several ways of extracting DMT, and different ways use different chemicals and take different time. It is recommended that before embarking on extracting, one reads up at least a couple of different teks (link on the bottom) to understand the processes.

The basics of an extraction is:

DMT is present in many plant materials and can be isolated through simple processes. Most commonly used plant is [[Mimosa hostilis]] root bark, but there are other plants with good alkaloid profile such as certain Acacias and certain strains of [[Phalaris spp.]]

DMT in an acidic solution is in salt form and therefore water soluble, while DMT in a basic solution becomes a freebase and not water soluble but rather soluble in non-polar solvents (like limonene, naphtha, xylene, etc). This works similarly to most other alkaloids, with a few exceptions, for example harmalas freebase dont dissolve in the solvents mentioned above, but when you add a base to a solution containing harmalas, they just precipitate and you can filter them.

Back to DMT, non-polar solvents separate from water like oil, it stays as a layer on top. By playing with the pH (adding an acid or a base) you make the dmt move from one place to the other while most of other impurities dont, and then you separate the layers by pippeting/separatory funnel/decanting, and then retrieve the dmt from the non-polar solvent by evaporating it or freeze-precipitating (putting it in a closed container in the freezer, and as the temperature goes down the solubility of dmt in the solvent diminishes, so after some hours dmt precipitates and can be retrieved). There are differences depending on the process of extraction you use (for example limonene can't be evaporated and neither freeze precipitated, it's usually salted, as described in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB], but that is, in a very general way, how it works.

There are some new developed teks for extracting dmt with food-safe materials and/or no petro-chemical solvents, such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] , [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Nontoxic_Approach_to_Spice_Extraction Amor Fati's approach], or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek Q21Q21's extraction tek]. The biggest advantage is, as said, the use of relatively non-toxic material and no petrochemicals but instead solvents such as limonene, which is basically pure orange oil. The disadvantage is that to retrieve the dmt from limonene, you cannot evaporate it (as limonene doesnt evaporate cleanly, it leaves gooey residues), and freeze precipitation also doesnt work (as even in freeze temperatures, dmt is still too soluble in it so it doesnt precipitate), so there are 2 extra steps, which are to 'salt out' the limonene by mixing it with an acidic solution, evaporating that solution and then freebasing the resulting product if one wants to smoke it (or just keeping the salt for storage or oral consumption), as explained in the teks mentioned above. These steps are just as easy as any other step done in the earlier steps of the extraction but the fact that its two extra steps means some extra time and work which some people might not want.

There are also the standard STB (straight-to-base) teks that have been used a lot before the food-safe/limo teks, the two most common being [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Noman%27s_tek Noman's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Lazyman%27s_tek Lazyman Tek]. The mimosa (or whatever plant material extracted) is put straight in a basic solution from the beginning, with no acid-adding step, and hence the name. The advantage of STBs generally being that they need less steps, maybe simpler for beginners, and can usually be quicker, and the main disadvantage being the amount of lye/caustic soda they require (lye being dangerous if it spills because it causes serious chemical burns and could make one blind, though if done correctly it will not be on your final product. Also disadvantage of using much lye is it is watched in many places due to being used in meth production, so it might be suspicious to buy it, or even impossible to find, specially in some specific places of USA). Another possible disadvantage of STB teks is some people claim the final product is not as clean, its more yellow. Yellow dmt isnt necessarily a problem, though, some people even prefer it. Also, one can easily do a recrystalization (look below in the FAQ for explanation) which will effectively clean up the final product quickly and with very little solvent needed.

Then there are the A/B extractions (acid/base), such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Vovin%27s_tek Vovin's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Marsofold%27s_tek Marsofold's tek]. As the name suggests, the plant material is first simmered/boiled in acid 3x, filtered and later the base is added. The advantage being that when one is adding the base and mixing the solvent, the solids were already removed after the acid step, making it easier to mix the solvent, and easier to discard everything later. Also the acid step allows one to do a [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Defat_process Defat], though usually that is considered a wasteful way of cleaning up because it needs a lot of solvent for removing a bit of fats, which can be accomplished more efficiently with a recrystallization on the final product. The disadvantage of an A/B is that it takes longer because of the initial acid step, and if one isnt thorough enough in this acid step one will lose a lot of actives when discarding the solids before moving on to the Base step.

==== Links ====

* [[:Category:Extraction_Tek|Extraction Teks]]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1085 DMT Extraction Overview]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=318336#post318336 Art of liquid-liquid extraction - The basics]

=== What is the best tek? ===

There is no "best" tek. All teks featured in the Nexus Wiki should result in similar final product purity and yields, if correctly performed. Each tek has it's own characteristics regarding chemicals used, how long it takes, how thorough it's explained, if it includes optional clean up steps or not, etc. That is why, before deciding on one tek, it's important to read all (or at least some of them), also the "where to start" question above and the extraction overview linked there. That way you will have a better understanding of the processes instead of just blindly following a tek, which means you'll probably be more succesful with whichever tek you decide to use in the end.

=== Is my solvent/chemical OK to use? ===

Before using any solvent, one must make sure it is a clean evaporating solvent with no toxic/residual additives (or for other non-volatile chemicals used, make sure it has no toxic/unwanted additives). Always:

* Read the ingredients on the solvent's or chemical's label. Make sure it is pure with nothing appart from the desired chemical (for example: Naphtha/Aliphatic hydrocarbons)
* Google "solventbrand solvent/chemical msds", searching the brand of the solvent you have access to, to see if it has an msds, which usually contains more in depth information on what the product contains. For example "merck acetone msds". Or alternatively:
* Check the webpage linked in [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=165091#post165091 this thread] and see if your solvent and its contents is featured there
* VERY IMPORTANT: Always do an evaporating test before using a solvent for the first time: Add a quantity of the solvent to a glass/pyrex/plate (do NOT use a cd) and let it evaporate. If it leaves residues of any kind, dont use it. If it evaporates cleanly, chances are its ok to use.
* Check [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=14772 this] thread on whether your chem is ok to use or where to get the right chems.

=== Is this material or container ok to use with my chemicals? ===

The keyword to search is "Chemical compatibility" or "Chemical Resistance", plus the material and solvent/chemical you are looking for. Below are some good links to help you already find the information you want:

==== Link ====

* [http://www.nalgenelabware.com/techdata/chemical/index.asp Chemical Compatibility Search]
* [http://www.coleparmer.com/techinfo/chemcomp.asp Chemical compatibility database 2]
* [http://www.greenterpene.com/GreenTerpene_Product_Compatibility_s/48.htm Limonene compatibility chart]

=== Is plastic OK to use for my extraction? ===

In short, better not. If you are going to use anyways (NOT recommended), be sure to check what kind of plastic it is, and that its compatible with the chemicals used, as in the links of the previous question. But again, better not use plastic and only use glass, read links below for explanations why:

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=26324 Warning to those using plastic containers]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=340124#post340124 Using plastic for extractions]

=== What are the different bases one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired base.

* For [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH
* For [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH, Potassium Hydroxide/KOH
* For [[:Category:Dry_Technique|Dry tek]]: Calcium Hydroxide

=== What are the different acids one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired acid.

Plenty of different kinds of acid will work, but generally people preffer the first one on the following list:
* Vinegar (acetic acid)
* Lemon Juice (citric acid)
* Phosphoric Acid
* Hydrochloric Acid/HCl/Muriatic Acid.

NOTE: Sulfuric acid is not very well suited towards this extraction, as it reacts with lye to form sodium sulfate which is very poorly water-soluble. This may result in a generous white precipitate.

Reaction:

2NaOH + H2SO4 => Na2SO4 + 2H2O

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1556 Acids]

=== How can I convert sodium bicarbonate into sodium carbonate ===

==== Link ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Conversion_of_Sodium_Bicarbonate_into_Sodium_Carbonate Sodium bicarb -> carb conversion wiki]

=== How long each acid cook? ===

30 min - 2 hours cooks in a crockpot on low-medium (or just low fire on the stove). Some people avoid boiling and only simmer, but it appears DMT salts are very stable even at boil temperatures, so there doesnt seem to be diminishing yields when boiling. Also, it's important to stir once in a while during the acid cook.

=== How many acid cooks? ===

General consensus talks about 3 runs, 2 being minimum and 5 being over-careful.

=== Can I make one long cook instead of 3 shorter ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== Which ratio of MHRB:Lye:Water is the best? ===

For STBs, 1g MHRB:1g Lye:15ml Water is generally accepted as a good ratio. People have had success with significantly less water, but 15ml per g bark is a recommended amount because less than that might make the whole mixture too thick and it can make the separation of the solvent more difficult. Also, one actually needs much less lye but this amount of lye helps prevent emulsions forming as well helps break down the plant material so that dmt is more exposed to the water.

Alternatively, one can just add enough lye for the solution to turn completely black, and go ahead and extract. If emulsions form, add more lye. One does not need to worry about over-basifying, there's no such thing. Excess lye will stay behind in the water layer once you separate the solvent in any case.

=== Can I scale down/up the amounts stated in a tek if I want to extract different amounts of mimosa? ===

Yes, just scale the quantities proportionally according to your situation

=== Can I make one big pull instead of few smaller ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be significantly smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

==== Links ====

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== How big should the pulls be / How much to pre-evaporate before freezing? ===

100ml per pull per 200g bark (or a 2:1 ratio of bark:naphtha) is a sensible recomendation. More wont hurt but it will waste solvent as you will have to evaporate much afterwards. Less solvent per pull is even better, as long as you repeat more pulls to compensate. Sometimes people use more solvent than this recommended amount, like when for example if using this ratio in one's container the layers are too thin and it is hard to separate the solvent (though there are [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#How_to_pull_.2F_get_the_solvent_off_from_the_mix.3F tricks for better separation]). If the plan is to freeze precipitate and one uses more naphtha than the recommended amount, it is recommended to pre-evaporate the naphtha before freezing.

The amount that one should pre-evaporate depends of course on how much solvent used. The idea about pre-evap is that the solvent should be as saturated as possible with dmt so that most or all of it precipitates when put in the freezer. If its not saturated enough, then not much (or not at all) will precipitate. So if one used more than 3:1 ratio of bark:solvent, then pre-evaporate enough to reach the equivalent of it (so if one used, lets say, 100ml per 100g bark, pre evaporating till a third of original volume is recommended). [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=150095#post150095 Here's] an attempt to explain why not having it saturated enough may result in no or low yield

Later pulls will most likely be less saturated with dmt than first pulls, so for the later pulls (like lets say the 4th and 5th), it would be logical to pre-evaporate even more than the first pulls. In the example given above, instead of evaporating until a third of original volume, maybe one could evaporate until there is only a quarter or a fifth of original volume.

Some people gauge the amount of pre-evaporation by doing it until the solvent starts getting cloudy.

In any case, remember to re-use the naphtha after retrieving the crystals from precipitation, and/or evaporating it all the way down to see if there are any actives that remained in the naphtha after the freeze precipitation

If one is extracting a different plant or using a different solvent, then the ratio recommendation can change. Though in extractions that one salts out the solvent (like for example in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] and other limonene-based extractions), one can (and even should) use significantly more solvent, because all alkaloids will anyways be retrieved with the salting step.

=== The layers wont separate, what to do? ===

Possible fixes:
# Dont shake next time, if you did so! Instead, Stir/roll/turn upside down slowly, several times.
# Add more basic water/lye to the mix (either mix is not basic enough or too much plant matter for too little water)
# Make a warm water bath with the whole container (remember no fire sources near solvents, and leave top slightly open for preventing building up of pressure)
# Tapping on the side of the container/vibration (like sitting on top of washing mashine)
# Adding plenty of no-additives non-iodized salt (will make the water more polar and therefore chemically help in the separation)

====Links====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5866 Naphtha won' seperate?]

=== My Solvent is Brown/Dark, what to do ? ===

It happens for some people that after mixing the solvent with the mimosa solution, the naphtha picks up a lot of color and when the layers are separated, there is no emulsion but the naphtha is very dark, brown/burgundy. The exact reasons for this are still unknown, but it seems to happen mostly with STB extractions, powdered bark and heated pulls. It may be that there are microscopic suspended particles of the mimosa/black liquid which for some reason refuse to settle, but nobody yet knows for sure.

Considering this is not an emulsion issue (if so, it can be solved as stated [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#The_layers_wont_separate.2C_what_to_do.3F here]), this issue can be solved by:

1- Wait a few hours and see if the color settles and the solvent layer gets clearer.

2- Separate the pull as you would normally, and do a sodium carbonate wash (explanation also here in the FAQ). If the wash isnt sufficient to get the dark away, then :

3- Do a 'mini A/B' (mixing the separated dark solvent with vinegar 3x, separating the vinegar and discarding the solvent. Then basify the vinegar by adding lye, and pull with fresh solvent)

=== How to pull / get the solvent off from the mix? ===

* [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Each person finds his own way. One of the practical ways is to first, with HDPE or glass pipette/turkey baster/glass syringe, crudely separate the solvent and maybe a bit of the mimosa mix into a tall thin container. Then, with another pipette/glass syringe (or same one, washed), separate the solvent (it will be easier due to being thiner container, so solvent layer will be thicker than before) to the final container for evap or freeze precip. On this second separation, only pull out what you are sure you can do accurately, and the last bit throw back into the main container. Often people complain that the turkey baster wont hold the solvent well and will start releasing liquid as soon as you stop pulling. A [http://www.plastyshack.com/images/glass_syringe.jpg glass syringe] or pipette will work better, you can find them sold in lab/chem/medical supply stores or online in a variety of shops.

* [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Same as above, or also using a separatory funnel.

=== Should I wash my spice? ===

Washing spice has as a main function to eliminate any possible lye or other polar impurities (like droplets of the mimosa basic mix) from the final product, which might make the smoke harsher. Nevertheless, unless one was sloppy and some of the basic mimosa liquid came through to the solvent when separating, there should be nothing or very small amounts of it in your final product.

In any case if one feels better making sure the spice is cleaner (because we all know how important our mental state is in these experiences, even if its clean but if you're worried it might make the experience worse), or if one's spice is unusually harsh, then proceed to a sodium carbonate wash (DO NOT WASH WITH AMMONIA! Many people report losing yield with ammonia wash )

# Have your product still in the solvent, before evaporation/precipitation. If you have already in crystal form, redissolve in a naphtha/heptane/hexane.
# Add anywhere in between a pinch to 5 grams of sodium carbonate (yes, doesnt matter... All that is necessary is for it to be a basic solution) to 100ml clean water.
# Add your spice-containing solvent and the sodium carbonate solution together in a container. Mix/shake/whatever (emulsions will not form).
# Separate the solvent from the sodium carbonate solution using pippette/turkey baster/syphon/separatory funnel. One can repeat steps 2-4 if desired, but not strictly necessary
# Freeze precipitate or evaporate to retrieve your DMT

Remember that regardless of washing, its still very important to make sure there are no solvent traces in your spice, which can be done with thorough air drying, or redissolving your dmt in a non-toxic (or less toxic) solvent like ethanol, or pure IPA/Acetone, and evapping that again

=== No precipitation or low yield? ===

# Stir/mix and let separate the layers many times over a longer period of time before pulling the solvent out of the mix, dont just let it stand.
# Evap till theres only a quarter of the naphtha left and repeat freeze precip. If this doesnt help:
# Add more lye/base in the basic solution and try again, with small warm, thoroughly mixed pulls
# If its evapped and it seems like small amount of goo, it may actually be more than it seems because goo is heavier crystals. Recrystallize goo as FAQ instructions or infuse some herbs and weigh herbs before and after infusing to know exact yield.

Other possibilities:
* Bad mimosa/plant material
* Not the right solvent (if solvent has aromatics like xylene mixed in, it wont freeze precipitate, and will evap into a gooey product, mix of dmt and other plant impurities)

=== Melting/dissapearing crystals after freeze precipitation / Whats the best way to retrieve crystals after freezing? ===

This usually happens because of remaining solvent residues warming up and redissolving the crystals.

A trick to work around that is to freeze precipitate for a day or so (if you already have the melted crystals, then redissolve them in small amounts of warm naphtha and back into the freezer), and after crystals have precipitated, take it out of the freezer, pour the naphtha off (through coffee filter just in case any crystals are not stuck to the container), close the container and put it upside down in the freezer for some more hours. This way, any remaining naphtha trapped inside the crystals will drop off to the lid of the container on the bottom.

So after those few hours, take out out of the freezer, opening the lid still upside down so the naphtha drops off, and then you can scrape the drier crystals, put them on top of a coffee filter or on a plate/petri dish to finish air drying, and voilá.

The container used for precipitation is ideally something with a lid that closes well, like a mason jar, and that the edges and walls are straight so you can scrape it off more easily. Scrape as much as you can of the dmt, and whatever is left inside, leave it and reuse the container for the next precipitation, or if its the last precipitation of the extraction, you can use some alcohol (or even naphtha, if its clean evapping naphtha) to pick the last bits up and evaporate in a dish or easy to scrape flat-bottom wide container.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=2290 DMT crystals melting]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=72767#post72767 Question about freeze precipitation times]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3519 Yellow goo. Won't crystallize]

=== Only getting goo with Acacia extraction ===

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=39030 Getting crystals with Acacia confusa]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=440164 Enough GOO questions...]

=== How to safely heat a solvent ? ===

With the solvent safely stored far away, boil some water with any method you want. Once water is boiled, turn off heat source, get the solvent, put it in a glass and submerge the bottom of the glass on a pot containing your recently boiled water. In some seconds/minutes your solvent should be warm and you can use it for recrystallizing or pulling. NEVER warm up solvents directly with a heat source, specially no gas/open fire but even do not use electrical equipment unless it's a safe laboratory hotplate made for such purposes that will guarantee not to create sparks.

=== How does one recrystallize? ===

1- Boil some water. Turn off the fire.

2- Add your impure spice to a shotglass (weigh it before to know the amount).

3- Add around 20-30ml of naphtha/heptane/hexane per gram of impure spice to the shotglass.

4- submerge the bottom of the glass in the water. Leave it standing and/or stir it around a little bit. Most of the spice should redissolve in a few minutes, but probably a layer of goo will stay on the bottom.

5-Decant or pippette your naphtha away from the goo, put this naphtha in a clean container, close it, and into the freezer overnight for freeze precipitation. Alternatively, instead of freezing, if one wants to grow large crystals, put in a container with the lid semi-closed and/or in a place with very little air circulation, so that the naphtha evaporates very slowly. The slower the evap, the larger the crystal growth.

Its possible small amount of spice is still in the goo, so you can add another 5 or 10ml to the shotglass with the goo to pick up the last bits of dmt. This second pull will be more impure as it will pick some oils up, so freeze precipitate it separately. The goo can then be discarded

If one doesnt have a scale or for some reason cant weigh the spice, warm up a quantity of naphtha in a shotglass without the dmt and slowly add small quantities of the warm naphtha to the container containing dmt while stiring, until most dmt dissolved but a bottom layer of goo remains. Then follow step 5.
http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Can_I_make_one_long_cook_instead_of_3_shorter_ones.3F

==== Links ====

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=10545#post10545 Glass Shard Re-Crystallization Pictorial]

=== How many times can I reuse my solvent? ===

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=335995#post335995 On reusing non polar solvents]

=== What to do with the waste? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3072 What to do with the waste]

=== How Can I Extract DMT From Phalaris? ===

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phalaris_%28grass%29 Phalaris] is a genus of grasses with very variable alkaloid content, which means it's very hard or impossible to really say if a given Phalaris will have a good alkaloid content in terms of what alkaloids are present and in what amounts. Some Phalaris have very little to no DMT (or 5-MeO-DMT or Beta-Carbolines), and yet have plenty of potentially toxic alkaloids such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gramine gramine], while others have good amounts of wanted tryptamines and low gramine content. There are also tryptamines and beta-carbolines in Phalaris which have unknown activity and safety profile such as 5-MeO-NMT and others. This variability is especially the case with wild Phalaris or those grown from seeds so, for a more reliable alkaloid content, the clones of known strains such as AQ1, Big Medicine (for DMT) and Turkey Red (for 5-MeO-DMT) are probably a better bet.

'''Even though some people have reported some variable success, we do NOT recommend people to ingest a crude brew made with Phalaris grass due to the unknown amounts of possible toxic alkaloids. If using Phalaris, extract it first as mentioned below'''

If growing Phalaris yourself, [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/images/8/8a/Festiandsamorini.pdf this]publication goes over all the factors of growth that affect the alkaloid content. Please check it out. Here's some selected quotes:

* "The highest concentration (of alkaloids) is in the upper third part of the seedling leaf."
* "The total alkaloid concentration decreases with plant maturity"
* "Total alkaloids are more concentrated in the first regrowth, after the cutting or grazing, than in the first growth just after sowing, decreasing then in the following regrowths"
* "The availability of soil nitrogen increases the alkaloids concentration"
* "In soil, but not in nutrient solution cultivations, the concentration of indole alkaloids (...) increase is greater in plants supplied with ammonium nitrogen compared to the nitric source"
* "Samples of P. arundinacea growing with 20% of the full sunlight can contain an amount of DMT about twice compared to control; 5-MeO-DMT may increase up to a factor of 25"
* "DMT seems to show a maximum in the first hours of the morning, at least in shaded plants, whereas 5-MeODMT reaches a concentration peak in late morning"

Regarding the extraction itself, the plant should be extracted as soon as possible after harvesting since plant enzyme activity can break down alkaloids, even if drying the plant. If plant is not extracted immediately, it should be stored in an alcoholic solution in cold and dark. For extraction, a standard A/B could potentially work well, boiling plant material 3x in acidic water (pH anywhere from 1-6 should work), filtering, reducing to small manageable amount by low boil or simmering, and then basing with NaOH and pulling with solvent. Alternatively, a dry tek (check the nexus extraction teks wiki for more info) with calcium hydroxide or sodium carbonate could work but there haven't been enough tests to say for sure.

Regarding what solvents to use, hexane/heptane or equivalent solvents such as naphtha should work well as gramine is very poorly soluble in it, but if using naphtha make sure that it doesn't contain xylene or aromatics mixed in. Some people report specially low yields with naphtha and suggest cooking oil or room temperature limonene instead (check hippie salad oil tek link below) Cold/room temperature limonene also seems to work to separate tryptamines from gramine but more work needs to be done to make sure this separation is good enough. Check the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] for the most up-to-date info, since solubility tests on gramine are being done right now. If using naphtha or similar hydrocarbons, doing a recrystallization is a good idea to help removing other unwanted alkaloids that may have come across. Using less selective solvents like DCM, xylene, toluene or others (or acetone or alcohols in a dry tek) would pull the potentially toxic unwanted alkaloids, so its not recommended to use those, unless you do a clean up at the end

If you extract from Phalaris, we would be very thankful if you document the process (notes and/or pictures) and post so that we all can learn about the results, whether they are good or not. Please try smoking/ingesting only a very small amount at first if you do. Ideally, purchase colorimetric reagents such as marquis or ehrlich to help identifying the final product if it contains the wanted alkaloids (more info in the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] )

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=44863 Hippie salad oil tek v 2]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=16810&p=7 Phalaris way of the future thread]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=28869 PDF on processing phalaris]

=== Can I use another solvent like xylene after having pulled with naphtha? ===

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359465#post359465 Can SWIM Use Dif Solvents To Extract Different Ranges of Spice?]

== DMT Usage/Methods of administration ==

=== Is my spice ok to smoke? ===

Often people ask in the forum if their spice is ok to smoke, followed by a picture or description of the dmt's appearance. Nevertheless, there are several other variables which simple color does not tell, and which are essential to decide whether one shoud or not smoke it. Please check link below for detailed information:

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=11715 IMPORTANT: spice color purity fallacy AKA is your dmt ok to smoke ? ]

=== How to brew ayahuasca or analogues (mimosa hostilis / syrian rue)? ===

The standard way of brewing is to first of all have the material powdered/grinded or pounded as fine as possible. Then
* 1- boil on low fire (or simmer) the plant material for around three hours (some people do even longer but not necessary unless material is too coarsely shredded.. Also energetic/ecological costs become higher). Use mineral or distilled water ideally, some tap water can have too high pH and diminish yields/potency. Use enough water to cover the plant material.
* 2- filter/strain the brew to separate the liquids and solids, store the liquid separately,
* 3- add fresh water to the solids and boil everything again. Do this for a total of 3 or 4 times,
* 4- put the liquid from the 3 or 4x boils together, keep filtered/decanted solids separately for stp 6,
* 5- reduce the liquid on low fire/simmer to a manageable ammount, like for example 70ml per dose (dosages/amounts of each plant in [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this thread]

OPTIONAL:
* 6- If you want to be very thorough and get all the alkaloids out, you can now soak the plant material in vinegar for a day, then freeze and thaw it, then boil it for another hour or two. This should have a significant amount of alkaloids, which can either be extracted by basing and filtering like the Easy Caapi Extraction Tek, and the alkaloids added to the main brew (or consumed separately in some other occasion), or you could also consume this orally directly but due to the vinegar it will taste very bad, so it's better to at least base it with sodium carbonate slowly until it stops bubbling and/or reaches a pH of around 6, and then it will taste better.

The MAOI containing plant (banisteriopsis caapi vine or syrian rue) can be boiled together with the DMT containing plant (psychotria viridis or mimosa hostilis, or just add some extracted dmt in appropriate dosage to the caapi/rue brew), but specially if its the first time with a particular plant batch, its recommended to brew separately the two, and first find out the potency of the plant by drinking first a small amount.

An acid can be added to the brew (such as a dash of lemon or vinegar), but this is not strictly necessary (and neither the traditional indigenous way), specially if your plant is finely powdered, because alkaloids in the plant are naturally in water-soluble form. Though acid can increase the potency of the brew (specially for non-powdered plant material), it will also make it taste worse. To get the best out of all the worlds, its recommended to do step 6, so you have a better tasting brew without acid, but you still get any remaining alkaloids at the end in the final acid soak.

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8972 all about aya <3 ]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=51 Ayahuasca subforum]
* [[Ayahuasca using Syrian Rue & Acacia confusa]]

=== Whats the best smoking method? ===

The [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] gives some tips not only on vaporizing methods but other tips, check it out.

Different people preffer different methods. FORGET THE LIGHTBULB METHOD as it only works for a small percentage of people, most report problems.

-
==== '''Vaporgenie''' ====

A big number of people in the Nexus claim the vaporgenie to be the best vaporizing method by far! The vaporgenie is claimed to be significantly more effective as well as having a much smoother vapor than other smoking methods so if one is having trouble with harsh smoke or low effects, try the vaporgenie out. The Glass VaporGenie is recommended but otherwise the classic one will work perfectly fine.

The first thing if you're vaporizing pure DMT, is to get a [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=42867 ceramic disc] or a volcano liquid pad and cut it up to fit the vaporgenie, otherwise the DMT will melt through the screens, even if it's multiple screens. Check the vaporgenie thread linked below for more details

Begin with the flame a few cms above the top and adjust as you go. With empty lungs, start inhaling slowly and steady. The idea is to inhale a dense vapour, but not too dense so that you start coughing. Its better to begin the inhaling with a not so dense smoke, and then make it denser towards the end. Keep the vapor in the lungs for as long as possible, at least 10 seconds. If you coughed or exhaled before this or couldnt inhale with all the lungs, try keeping the flame further away or adjusting the speed of inhaling so that its a bit less dense.

Usually it takes anywhere between 1-3 hits, or anywhere between 25-50mg for a full breakthrough, if you got your technique right. A torch lighter is recommended, but a normal lighter will also work fine.

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=39961#post39961 VG VaporGenie: How to use, where to get, advantages, etc]

- If you cant or dont want to afford a vaporgenie, a good possibility is to make your own vaporization tool like:

===='''amorfati's Inspirator MKII'''====

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8985 Link to how to build/use the Inspirator mKII]

For a vaporization to be really effective, the DMT should be heated by convection (hot air), not conduction (hot glass/pipe/material), so vaporgenie and inspirator are recommended. If you dont want to use these methods, there are other possibilities which are less effective and risk burning DMT instead of just vaporizing, but it does work decently enough for many people:

===='''- Bong/leaf bed/enhanced leaf'''====

One method also considered successful by some is in a water bong (or plain bong), with a couple of metal screens, a thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on the bottom, then the dmt in the middle, and then another thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on top.
It is essential to go very easy on the fire, because too much heat will degrade DMT. Keep the lighter as far away as possible so that it still vaporizes but doesnt over-heat your DMT
50mg seems to be a good dose if one wants to really go inside the dmt dimension. Inhale slowly and deeply, holding in the lungs as much as possible (at least a few seconds), exhaling, and then taking a second, third one if possible, and even fourth one if one still can. Even if after the first there are already some effects, if one really wants to breakthrough, gotta keep going as much as one can.

Specifically for enhanced leaf check link below

====''' The Machine'''====

Check links below

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=39961#post39961 VG VaporGenie: How to use, where to get, advantages, etc]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6014 Helps and tips for smoking spice]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=280594 My version of the "Machine" - How to make it in <15 minutes]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6131 Ban the Bulb - Modify the Machine]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to enhanced leaf changa]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5633 Thoughts on using a VaporGenie]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6317 Troubles with The Machine]

=== I dont get any effects/light buzz only, what to do? ===

99% of the times, when people do not get effects, they are having a bad vaporization method, most likely burning the sspice. Try one of the methods above, and considering it is dmt and one smokes it right, it should work. Other possibility is that one has a very impure product with too much plant oils and so on. One can perform one or more recrystalizations to get a purer product that is easier to weight accurately and vaporize, and then try methods above.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=86732#post86732 Trouble Breaking Through???]

=== Fear going into a trip ===

If you're afraid of dark things coming from inside of you and are not willing to face them, you should not consume any psychedelics at all...

If you're afraid but willing to face them, then that's another thing.

And whether it's changa, pharma, or aya or vaporized DMT, it doesn't matter much, those dark things can come out with one or the other.

A low dosage may help, yes, and so can a proper set and setting, but this is no guarantee you won't be facing what you fear the most. It can, and most likely will happen at some point, whether now or after a certain number of experiences. Whenever we take psychedelics, it's as if we sign a contract saying we accept all those possibilities. So think well before signing, and if you do sign, make sure to get all the preparations right before the time come, take it in a proper context and to humbly accept whatever may come, take responsibility for it, and learn from it.

==== Link ====

*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=470491#post470491 Suddenly concerned]

=== Denied breakthrough / Dark DMT trips / Not good experiences anymore ? ===

It happens with several people that they feel they aren't getting good experiences anymore, that the trips are consistently of dark motifs, negative feelings, or that the breakthrough is denied, regardless of dosage. There isn't a ready answer for why this happens, but it seems a few factors may be related to it. In many cases, this happens when people are having a regular or excessive DMT use, or when they haven't been dedicating enough to their daily lives, to [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration integration] of the experiences. Also, it may have in some cases to do with the intentions one sets before vaporizing the DMT, and with how one's mind state and the context in general is.

So a few tips on how to deal with this issue:

1- Take a break! The DMT hyperspace will always be there, there is no rush to go right now! Stop your DMT usage (and maybe drug usage altogether), dedicate to daily life, live a balanced healthy life, eat well, exercise, study, work. Do not obsess about DMT, try to only come back once you feel you have really made enough effort in improving your daily life. At least a few months break is recommended.

2- If and once you do decide to try it again, make sure it is a good place and time for it. Take care with using in the best set and setting possible (look further down the FAQ for recommended setting).

3- Do not smoke it impulsively. Meditate or spend a few minutes in silence, concentrating, breathing deeply and slowly.

4- Set your intentions straight. Question yourself why you are doing this. Try to have the best intentions and reasons as possible.

5- Use a good smoking method such as the vaporgenie or others as recommended above.

6- If it still doesnt work out for you, take an even longer break (many months/years), and/or stop it altogether. Realize that maybe DMT is just not for you. Its not a problem to admit one's relationship with a substance is not working, in fact, it shows you're being humble and conscious.

==== Link ====

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration Health and Safety section: Integration]
* [http://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=169680#post169680 what happened to the bright side?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=13515 Vaporized DMT not having an effect in those who it has worked for previously]

=== What are the dosages for ... ? ===

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 Dosages and different forms of ingestion]

=== What is the best setting/context to consume spice? ===

Check [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] for some tips on setting, preparation and also integration

* A comfortable quiet place is generally recommended. If there are friends around they should be requested to remain quiet while someone is embarking on this experience and only start speaking once the explorer talks himself and allows others. Possibility of telefone ringing or street noises or other interruptions is definitely NOT recommended.
* The presence of music or not depends a lot on personal taste. Some prefer full silence to 'concentrate' more deeply and mention that any stimulus keeps them too grounded in usual reality, while others can have very deep interconnected experiences with certain music of their own preference (often being some kind of chill out/ambient/ethno ).
* Many people preffer full darkness or indirect lighting, but sunset or sunrise in a nice nature place (if safe) can also be marvelous.
* Obviously '''DO NOT''' have sharp objects around, smoke next to cliffs, driving etc...
* It is very rare, but it may happen that one feels nauseated and/or vomits, so specially first times or those doing alone, its also recommended to have a bucket nearby, and to sit comfortably, resting the back against something soft in a way that you wont slip or fall, such as an armchair, bed with backrest/pillows or comfortable sofa.
* While we are not aware of any deaths, it would be irresponsible to discount the possibility that blocking your airway while deep in hyperspace could prove fatal, so be in a position/place where you are safe even if not conscious of the surroundings. During traditional ayahuasca ceremonies participants sit on the floor or in a comfortable chair. We recommend sitting upright (slightly reclined for stability) comfortably because the launch is far more immediate and surprising with vaporised DMT. Think of it as your pilot seat- you wouldn't fly a plane any other way!
* If you do not have a sitter to take the pipe from you, be sure that you have a safe and easy place very near to put it down when you feel hyperspace approaching. You will not be inclined to move your hand very far, so we would recommend a fireproof shelf of sorts less than a foot away. Just smoking cigarettes in bed kills many people every year, and obviously the same dangers are relevent with DMT. We have heard one report of a member who returned from an unenjoyable trip to find that she had dropped the pipe onto her leg, resulting in a nasty burn.
* Prior meditation or at least focusing on intention and inner calm can be benefiting.
* Remember to let go, dont struggle. Its normal that the hearbeat accelerates in the come up. Some people fear they are dying or that they wont return, but dont worry FOR SURE you come back, as it has happened with everybody else. Some people feel that they lose their breath, but its just a feeling.. As long as the airway is not physically blocked, then dont worry our body has a built-in mechanism that prevents one from stopping breathing.
* Dont be scared, entities cant hurt you in real life if you dont believe it. Try to not make 'good/bad' judgements during the experience, dont resist!! Just go with the flow of the ride. Some images may appear positive, negative, incredible, impossible to describe, etc, but you are safe regardless of what comes.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5900 Favourite setting for smoking DMT]

=== What about other ingestion methods (intranasal, intrarectal, Atomizer/E-cig etc) ? ===

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods Ingestion Methods]

=== Can DMT be IVed? ===

It can, but we do not recommend it mainly for two reasons:

1- The only official research done with DMT by Rick Strassmann used FDA-approved very pure DMT fumarate. The quality of home extraction products might be questionable, one may have solvent traces and other impurities that could be uncomfortable, painful or downright dangerous to inject.

2- The onset of the effects are so quick that one might not be able to take out the needle in time and accidentally ripping their vein out while in hyperspace, or putting it down too near and rolling around/puncturing oneself

If one still decides to do it, then please: Use food-safe/USP grade chemicals to extract, take care in making many purifying steps (several recrystallizations/washes) and making sure it has no solvent or other chemical traces in the final product (redissolving the recrystallized product in USP grade acetone or ethanol and re-evaporating, scrapping and letting it dry completely before converting to fumarates in a sterile solution, etc.). Check the first link below for tips on how to prepare for injection and safety proceedures

Also, for the first try, take at most 0.2mg/kg, preferably less. And VERY importantly, [[do NOT do it by yourself]], have a sitter that is experienced with needles inject for you and be there to make sure you are physically safe.

==== Links ====

* [http://www.hipforums.com/newforums/showpost.php?p=6347899&postcount=5 Entheogen Review article on safe injection proceedure]
* [http://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4128 iv dmt]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1521 IV DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3016 IV DMT?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=144148 Injecting DMT]
* [http://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=7450 FASA safe for injection?]

=== How can I estimate the amount of mimosa? ===

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=236540#post236540 Estimating mimosa amount]

== DMT/Plant storage ==

=== Does DMT go bad? ===

The main degradation product of dmt seems to be dmt n-oxide, which is also psychoactive. Some people enjoy and find qualitative difference in n-oxide compared to dmt. On the other hand, other people report negative experiences with old spice, but it is unknown how much is self-suggestion and how much is really true. The rate at which dmt converts to n-oxide logically depends on factors such as air exposure and temperature, but so far there havent been any quantitative tests to tell how fast it goes in a given condition.

In any case, n-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

Many people convert the freebase to dmt fumarate for storage, as its claimed to be a more stable salt.

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1553 DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=302112#post302112 DMT oxidation rate]

=== Does mimosa go bad? ===

Generally mimosa should not go bad even after months/years. If it looks fine and doesnt have some mutant fungus growing on it, its perfect :) There are reports of people using mimosa that was for many months or even years in a drawer without any significant problem (though as with anything, its always more prudent to store in dark, dry, cold place).

The main possible degradation is of dmt into dmt n-oxide. Dmt n-oxide is also psychoactive, but it is not soluble in naphtha, which may cause some people to get small yields when extracting from older bark. N-oxide is soluble in limonene/xylene/toluene/etc, so one could extract it with those solvents without loss of yield. Alternatively, N-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

For oral usage of mimosa, formation of n-oxide wouldnt really affect much as it will be water soluble so one will still get the effects when consuming the brew.

==== Links ====
* [[DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3570 How long should MHRB keep]

=== Whats the best way to store DMT? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

In any case, one can also convert to dmt fumarate which is a very stable salt form of dmt

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4482 Long-term storage]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4867 How to store DMT for longest]

=== Whats the best way to store Mimosa? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

Logically, bark in pieces will keep better than when powdered

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1488 Storing mimosa hostilis]

== DMT Allies ==

=== What is jungle spice ? ===

http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359543#post359543
Jungle Spice is the product resulting from an extraction of mimosa hostilis using a solvent more polar than naphtha (such as xylene, toluene, limonene, ether, DCM, etc). Sometimes people also call it JimJam, which was first called only for limonene extracted products, but analysis shown it to be equivalent to what is extracted with xylene. Chemical analysis has shown that both naphtha as well as xylene/limonene extract mostly DMT (around 90%), plus around or under 1% 2-methy-1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-beta-carboline (2MTHBC) and NMT. The psychoactivity of 2MTHBC is unknown at this point, and NMT does appear to be psychoactive, though a quarter of the potency of DMT. Appart from these mentioned alkaloids, Xylene, when evaporated, and both limonene or xylene, when salted with an acidic solution like vinegar or FASW, also yield around 0.2% MTHBC (tetrahydroharman), and what could be 1,2-dimethyl-tetrahydrobetacarboline or a yuremamine degradation product (as suggested by dozuki in the jungle spice analysis thread linked below). Very little to nothing is known about these two 'extra' beta-carbolines in junglespice/jimjam, if they are psychoactive or can potentiate DMT.

Some people claim jungle spice to be stronger or produce a different experience than pure DMT. This may be self-suggestion (people thinking it is stronger/different therefore feeling it), it may be that the inactive oils/impurities present in jungle spice somehow protect DMT from heat, making a more effective vaporization, and therefore feel stronger. It may also be that the beta carbolines together, have a synergistic effect with DMT making a stronger experience, or it may be that these beta carbolines would only really be noticeable if they were in a larger quantity as is the case with some Acacias. It may be a mixture of any or all of the above possibilities.

Only further testing (such as blind self-experiments and more analysis) will help us isolating the variables and answer the questions on junglespice's activity

For more information on jungle spice, check the links below

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1115 Jungle Spice]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=10553 Jungle Spice chemical analysis]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23544 Entheogenic effects of NMT]

=== What is changa / How to make changa ? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Changa Changa WIKI]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to DMT enhanced leaf (changa)] thread
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=27537 How does your changa looks like ?] thread

=== What type of caapi/ayahuasca vine should I use, what are the differences ? ===

Different ethnobotanical suppliers seem to stock different varieties of caapi. Often they use color names (for example black caapi, white caapi, etc), or other names used by local / mestizos / indigenous people (caupuri, ourinhos, etc). The problem is that there is no consensus regarding the classification of different caapi vines, so some indigenous people may recognize 2 types, in another tribe they may recognize 10 types, and so on. These types may overlap or they may even be in contradiction with each other. Also botanists would not necessarily agree with those types, as sometimes classification from indigenous people is not based on how a plant looks, but also on its effects, purpose, etc. In fact, some of what is sold as "black/red/whatever caapi" may even be of a different genus/species altogether (more discussion on this on links below)

There is an ongoing analysis project going on with different caapi/ayahuasca vines (link below), and it seems some caapis have very similar alkaloid/chemical component even if they have different names, while others may have quite different content even if they are named the same. The difference can be in ratio of alkaloids or total alkaloid yield, for example some black caapi from one vendor yielded over 2% alkaloids, a black caapi from another vendor yielded 0.5%.

Regarding the type/function/effects of different caapis, at this point any conclusions and generalizations are not possible. As an example, at times it's said that black caapi is used for more witchcraft kind of rituals by some shamans, but this doesnt mean that: a- that particular group is "correct", b-that other groups would agree with what they call "black caapi", c- That the black caapi you find is equivalent to that, d- that you cant use it for another purpose and have a great experience regardless.

It may be that there is a pattern between alkaloid content of different caapi vines (some may have more harmaline, or more THH, etc), but at this point we cannot yet say. Also even if a correctly identified subtype of caapi would have a specific alkaloid content, we would still have to make the assumption that the vendors are actually identifying correctly.

If you want to decide what type of caapi to get, one thing you could do is check the suppliers section and see if this specific caapi from the specific vendor has been reviewed, and dont believe in generalizations (all caapi "X" is strong and gives dark trips, all caapi "Y" is light and for beginners). Start with low dosage (10-20g) for the first time to gauge the strenght of this particular batch you have acquired, and then raise the dosage accordingly if necessary.

Another thing to do is to buy at least 2 different types and then take them in separate occasions, and then sharing the results with the community, and that way we all grow together.

Do check the links below as they have very relevant discussions regarding the different caapi types:

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29967 Caapi analysis thread]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32018 Poorly understood family of ayahuasca vines]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=30106 tetrapterys methystica (painted caapi) and other kinds of caapi]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=325495#post325495 Which caapi should I get ?]

== Plant sources ==

=== What are the best DMT-containing plants in my area ? ===

One good way to check what DMT plants you have around you is to look at the Nexus Wiki lists for [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT plants containing DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT] ) . Then use the search function of [http://www.discoverlife.org discoverlife page] or [http://bonap.org/genera-list.html bonap] to search the plants names and see in the species map if any of the good candidates grow near you, or alternatively, you can first identify the plants growing around you and search for their scientific name on the mentioned wiki lists.

If you don't find any plants growing around you, you can consider cultivating some ideal plants yourself, for example checking out the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=38229 Top Acacias To Grow Worldwide Thread] for the mid-long term, or getting known cuttings of phalaris with good alkaloid content such as AQ1 and big medicine (for more info check all the links in the first post of the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]) which can be harvested pretty quick

=== Does this plant contain DMT ? ===

Often people ask in the forum if the plant they have growing around them contains DMT. Then they might post pictures of the plants and expect an identification. Before that is done, the person asking needs to do some basic things:

1- Look up the information to know the plants that contain interesting alkaloids. The best resources are the Nexus wiki of plants containing [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT].

If it's an Acacia, read the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Acacia information thread] and if it's a Phalaris read the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]. Those threads contain information on seed suppliers, geographic location, season of harvest, conditions of growth and variation in alkaloid content, etc, which the person should become familiar with.

2-The person should try to identify the local plants based on the information in the above links. Posting picture of random plants without at least having some clue on what they could be, will only make everybody's life much harder. Look up images of suspected plants and compare, see in what they may differ.

3- Take detailed pictures of the different plant parts (overall plant, leaf close up front and back, seedpods and flower close ups if they are there). Often to differentiate between species the details are important, so blurry bad quality pictures or single pictures with no close ups or details of different plant parts are not enough.

4- Post your ID request in the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=358663#post358663 Acacia ID thread] if it's a suspected Acacia, or make a new thread if it's a differen't plant. Be sure to say what plant you think it is, and include information such as general geographic area, the detailed pics above, and any possible differences you may have seen with the plant you think it is.

5- If your plant gets identified and you plan on harvesting, please only harvest sustainably! Check [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=344487#post344487 this] post for more information

=== Links ===

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33512 Guide to Researching Psychoactive Plants: Resource List]'''

'''[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Containing_Plants WIKI -> DMT Containing Plants]'''

'''[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Botanicals WIKI -> Botanicals]'''

'''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=369566#post369566 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa ID stuff.zip]'''

'''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33648 Acacia Identification Thread]'''

'''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Trying to improve Acacia information]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia ID stuff.zip]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Phalaris.zip Phalaris.zip]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=34525 Phalaris/other grass types ID thread]'''

'''[http://www.erowid.org/plants/phalaris/phalaris_images.shtml Erowid.org -> Phalaris Grass Images]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=173732#post173732 help identifying Phalaris arundinacea]'''

'''[http://extension.entm.purdue.edu/caps/pestInfo/reedCanaryGrass.htm extension.entm.purdue.edu -> Reed Canary Grass]'''

.

== Reference ==
<references/>

FAQ - DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide

2014-08-07T00:56:40Z

Cosmic Spore: /* What is DMT, Where do I learn the basics? */

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of the 'DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide'<ref>DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide
[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6341]</ref>.}}

== DMT overview ==

=== What is DMT, Where do I learn the basics? ===

DMT is a naturally occuring substance, present in trace amounts in normal human metabolism (and its purpouse is unknown, check question [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Is_it_true_the_pineal_gland_produces_DMT_naturally_and_is_involved_in_dreaming.3F 2.1] , as well as in a variety of plants and animals.

It can be extracted from some of these plants and smoked for some very strong psychedelic/entheogenic effects lasting 10 minutes. It can also be taken orally, but we have an enzyme (MAO) in our stomach that destroys dmt if taken orally, so for taking orally DMT must be acompanied by a substance that inhibits this enzyme (MAOI, or MAO Inhibitor), which is also present in some other plants.

Ayahuasca, a sacred drink used by indigenous people of the Amazon, is an example of a drink made from a dmt-containing plant (Psychotria viridis), together with a MAOI containing plant (Banisteriopsis caapi), that is drank orally for a psychedelic/entheogenic experience lasting around 4 hours.

When smoking, we do not need to use MAOI because we do not have MAOs in our lungs. Nevertheless, some people like to also ingest MAOIs before vaporizing DMT, or vaporizing a MAOI together with the DMT (such as in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ_-_DMT_Frequently_Asked_Questions_and_Troubleshooting_Guide#What_is_changa_.2F_How_to_make_changa_.3F changa]), to make the experience last longer.

For learning more about DMT, this whole webpage is dedicated to it. Here's a few links

==== Links ====

* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dimethyltryptamine Wikipedia DMT Link]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/ The Dmt Nexus Wiki]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ Frequently Asked Questions]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=forum Main Dmt Nexus Forum]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Abbreviations.docx Abbreviations and their meanings]

=== Are there different types of DMT? ===

DMT can be in salt form or in freebase form. A salt form means the DMT is attached to an acid molecule. DMT is naturally in salt form in the plants because of plant acids (for example dmt tannate or oxalate due to tannic or oxalic acid being present in some plants). When people extract DMT, they can make it in freebase form to smoke, because DMT in salt form can't be smoked, it has high boiling point and breaks down instead of vaporizing efficiently. Some salt forms like DMT fumarate can even be toxic to smoke due to creation of maleic anhydride during combustion.

Appart from being naturally in brews made of DMT containing plants like ayahuasca, DMT can also be made into salt for, for example DMT fumarate, when people extract it, because DMT fumarate is stable and can be stored for long, and it can be taken orally or intranasally. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods this] for more info. Regarding dosages in different salt forms, one can read [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this] thread. Each salt form of DMT have their own weight depending on the acid molecule weight (for example DMT fumarate's weight is around 76% DMT, 24% fumaric acid), so dosages could be adjusted proportionately to the amount of DMT when ingesting, but since each person is differently sensitive to DMT and since salt form may be a bit more effective to ingest orally, this "salt weight calculation" is not really necessary for DMT, one can just ingest according to [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 these] recommendations, starting low for first time, and adjusting according to own sensitivity and batch the next time.

There are other molecules which have the DMT structure built into them but they are not DMT, they have structural modifications, for example 4-HO-DMT also known as psilocin and 4-PO-DMT, psilocybin, the active compounds in mushrooms, which are different molecules altogether with their own particular effects. Small modifications in molecules can completely change effects. So psilocybin, psilocin, 5-MeO DMT, and 5-HO-DMT (bufotenine), plus others, are all different molecules, they are NOT the same as DMT. Each of them has different effects, pharmacology, etc etc. On the other hand, DMT freebase or DMT in salt form (tannate, acetate, fumarate) are all DMT.

== DMT Chemistry and Body ==

=== Is it true the pineal gland produces DMT naturally and is involved in dreaming and death? What does DMT do in the body? ===

At this point there is no evidence to support the claim that DMT is produced in the pineal or brain. It is a speculation raised by Dr Rick Strassman due to his previous interest in the pineal. So far in humans, the key enzymes necessary for this have [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=5549 not been found present in the human brain], therefore it seem more likely it is produced elsewhere in the body, though some recent research has shown in primates these enzymes are present in pineal gland. In any case nothing is really proven yet so we must avoid making claims before more data comes in.

The supposed connection of DMT and dreams, and the idea that DMT is released when we die, both are speculation with no real evidence to back them up.

It IS proven, though, for decades already, that DMT is produced in the human body and is present at all times in trace amounts, for unknown functions (which could be several functions, see last link below).

==== Links ====

*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18834 Zero proof DMT is made in the brain]
*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=295746#post295746 I dislike the "DMT is responsible for your dreams" theory]
*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18394 Rethinking DMT and the Pineal Gland]
*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18448 The functions of DMT in our body: If DMT would be a neurotransmitter]

=== Is DMT dangerous? ===

Researches have been made showing the relative safety of dmt. It does not cause physical damage, addiction, and any tolerance disappears very quickly. Ayahuasca, the dmt-containing brew from the Amazon, has been studied by multidisciplinary groups in Brazil and other countries and was shown that in a careful context, it presents no negative cognitive/psychiatric/social consequences, even in adolescents.

There is yet little research into vaporized dmt, but there seems to be no sign that it is in any way more dangerous physically than other administration forms. There are no reported deaths from smoking DMT. Smoking it will not lead to a dangerous overdose because the onset is so quick that one can only inhale a certain amount before being gone to ´hyperspace', without being able to smoke more until one is down again.

However:
* People with extreme heart or other conditions for whom strong emotions could be dangerous are contra-indicated, just like a roller coaster would for them.
* It is important to notice that with any psychedelic, it is a very powerful emotional/mental experience, so those with personal or family psychiatric history, unstable emotionally or going through some very difficult moments in life should be extremely careful.
* Also, it is possible that during the experience, one temporarily loses orientation in the consensus reality, so smoking/ingesting next to a cliff, sharp objects, etc, is not a good idea. BE IN A PHYSICALLY SAFE ENVIRONMENT!
* DO NOT use MAOIs (so for example an ayahuasca brew) together with stimulants or SSRI medication

Appart from that, there are psychological issues to be considered. Please read the health and safety section linked below, as well as the scientific articles also linked below.

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety Health And Safety Section]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1441 Scientific Articles on DMT/Ayahuasca/Psychedelics]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4400 Long term effects of smoking DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5843 DMT After-Effects]

=== Is a MAOI diet / Ayahuasca fasting necessary? What kind of dangers are there with medication interaction? ===

Unlike some pharmaceutical MAOI, the Harmalas, alkaloids present in the caapi vine and syrian rue are reversible inhibitors of MAO-A, while Tyramine, the component in some food that could cause problems in big amounts, is eliminated partly by MAO-A and but also partly by the intact MAO-B ([http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 source] ). Also for some pharmacological reason as shown in [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_fig9big.jpg this] diagram, tyramine can still be partly metabolized by MAO-A even during the harmala effects.

In other words, in terms of '''food''' interaction, the danger with reversible MAOI use (in for example ayahuasca or pharmahuasca with harmalas) and food interaction is very reduced. The necessity of the very strict dieting for ayahuasca with extensive list of what one must absolutely not eat is an exaggeration, though it is advised to eat light because extreme amounts of tyramine in some specific foods could theoretically still be a potential problem.

There seem to be no reports of actual life-threatening events with tyramine-containing foods and harmalas. There are even people that purposely ate tyramine-containing foods with no ill effects, but there have also been reports of negative symptoms such as very strong headaches and negative body load when mixing a heavy food consumption before/during/after harmala consumption. Several other variables may also be involved that are unrelated to tyramine and harmala-food interaction (variables such as for example exhaustion from the trip, vasodilation, the body/ayahuasca telling the person to 'eat better' in general, etc). Headaches seem specially common when mixing beer and harmalas.

In any case, it is generally considered common sense to eat light before and after the use of ayahuasca and analogues (and psychedelics in general). Just follow your good sense and you should be fine. To eer on the side of caution, the food to avoid eating (or over-eating) is aged or fermented food specially aged cheese, fermented or smoked meat (fish included) and soy products (though some soy products have also been found to have little tyramine content). Beer should also be avoided as some people have experienced negative interaction between MAOIs and beer. Apart from that, there are no real restrictions, eat lightly and all should be good :)

In relation to how long to wait after the last food before taking ayahuasca, this is very personal. Some like to have empty stomach and be fasting for 6 or more hours, but this is not necessary, and others feel it is even negative to fast for so long, because a too empty stomach might make one very tired during the ceremony, specialy at the end, and can also make purging a specially difficult or uncomfortable experience. Some consider better to have eaten something light (like some fruits or cereal or light sandwhich) a couple of hours before ingesting ayahuasca/analogues.

Remember: With the exception of moclobemide, which stands in the same category as harmalas as far as reversibility and food interaction goes, avoid all other pharmaceutical MAOIs !! Pharmaceutical irreversible MAOIs are VERY dangerous to take without taking strong precautions with food and drug interaction.

'''What IS dangerous is interaction between any MAOIs (including harmalas) and stimulants or some medication''' such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_serotonin_reuptake_inhibitor SSRI] medication such as prozac, or stimulants such as amphetamines or others. If you're taking SSRI's, do not consume MAOIs!! Do not mix stimulants with MAOIs either! Mixing stimulants/SSRIs with MAOIs can cause Serotonin Syndrome which may lead to convulsions or even death. For pharmaceuticals and substances that should NEVER be taken when consuming harmalas, check [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 1] and [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 2]

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29131 Do you experience tyramine interaction with harmalas?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5711 Will smoked Rue cause MAOI?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5398 Think iv cracked it]
* [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=tyramine%20food%20table&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CFMQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fddr.nal.usda.gov%2Fbitstream%2F10113%2F7351%2F1%2FIND43817287.pdf&ei=PpvsT8zAEsXAhAehj-nPBQ&usg=AFQjCNGKR57Q_VTqzOjKxfvKbu0kDTB8Ng&cad=rja Scientific publication on food containing tyramine]
* [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 scientific publication on interaction of MAOIs and tyramine]

== DMT and Society ==

=== Is dmt legal? ===

Posession and sales of DMT in its pure extracted/synthesized form is illegal, schedule 1 in USA and controlled by United Nations and can land you in jail if found in most countries.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/dmt/dmt_law.shtml Erowid DMT Law Vault]

=== '''Are the natural ingredients such as mimosa, and ayahuasca, illegal?''' ===

'''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=21527 On the Legal Status of DMT Source Plants in the US (with a discussion of the religious use defense)]'''

==== Links ====

* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/ayahuasca/ayahuasca_law.shtml Erowid Ayahuasca Law Vault]
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/plants/mimosa/mimosa_law.shtml Erowid Mimosa Law Vault]

=== Whats the price of dmt / Can I trade dmt? ===

'''[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Attitude_Page#No_discussion_on_selling.2C_buying.2C_sourcing.2C_acquiring.2C_pricing.2C_trading.2C_mentioning_pending_deliveries_or_smuggling_of_drugs No discussion on selling, buying, sourcing, acquiring, pricing, trading, mentioning pending deliveries or smuggling of drugs].'''

'''DO NOT BUY OR SELL DMT!''' We at the nexus are against selling/profiting with this incredible substance. We do not know and we do not want to know how much it costs in the street, we do not want it to be sold on the streets! This is not only disrespectful and shows a lack of understanding about the power of this substance, but its also a liability for the whole community. Dealing/trading DMT can attract the attention of authorities and create a problem not only for yourself but for all others in the community.

'''Talking about DMT sales or trade will result in suspension from the forum!'''

All the reasons why we dont believe in it are listed in the thread below

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3414 Street Value of DMT (and why you should never sell it) ]

== DMT Extraction ==

=== Where to start? ===

There are several ways of extracting DMT, and different ways use different chemicals and take different time. It is recommended that before embarking on extracting, one reads up at least a couple of different teks (link on the bottom) to understand the processes.

The basics of an extraction is:

DMT is present in many plant materials and can be isolated through simple processes. Most commonly used plant is [[Mimosa hostilis]] root bark, but there are other plants with good alkaloid profile such as certain Acacias and certain strains of [[Phalaris spp.]]

DMT in an acidic solution is in salt form and therefore water soluble, while DMT in a basic solution becomes a freebase and not water soluble but rather soluble in non-polar solvents (like limonene, naphtha, xylene, etc). This works similarly to most other alkaloids, with a few exceptions, for example harmalas freebase dont dissolve in the solvents mentioned above, but when you add a base to a solution containing harmalas, they just precipitate and you can filter them.

Back to DMT, non-polar solvents separate from water like oil, it stays as a layer on top. By playing with the pH (adding an acid or a base) you make the dmt move from one place to the other while most of other impurities dont, and then you separate the layers by pippeting/separatory funnel/decanting, and then retrieve the dmt from the non-polar solvent by evaporating it or freeze-precipitating (putting it in a closed container in the freezer, and as the temperature goes down the solubility of dmt in the solvent diminishes, so after some hours dmt precipitates and can be retrieved). There are differences depending on the process of extraction you use (for example limonene can't be evaporated and neither freeze precipitated, it's usually salted, as described in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB], but that is, in a very general way, how it works.

There are some new developed teks for extracting dmt with food-safe materials and/or no petro-chemical solvents, such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] , [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Nontoxic_Approach_to_Spice_Extraction Amor Fati's approach], or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek Q21Q21's extraction tek]. The biggest advantage is, as said, the use of relatively non-toxic material and no petrochemicals but instead solvents such as limonene, which is basically pure orange oil. The disadvantage is that to retrieve the dmt from limonene, you cannot evaporate it (as limonene doesnt evaporate cleanly, it leaves gooey residues), and freeze precipitation also doesnt work (as even in freeze temperatures, dmt is still too soluble in it so it doesnt precipitate), so there are 2 extra steps, which are to 'salt out' the limonene by mixing it with an acidic solution, evaporating that solution and then freebasing the resulting product if one wants to smoke it (or just keeping the salt for storage or oral consumption), as explained in the teks mentioned above. These steps are just as easy as any other step done in the earlier steps of the extraction but the fact that its two extra steps means some extra time and work which some people might not want.

There are also the standard STB (straight-to-base) teks that have been used a lot before the food-safe/limo teks, the two most common being [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Noman%27s_tek Noman's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Lazyman%27s_tek Lazyman Tek]. The mimosa (or whatever plant material extracted) is put straight in a basic solution from the beginning, with no acid-adding step, and hence the name. The advantage of STBs generally being that they need less steps, maybe simpler for beginners, and can usually be quicker, and the main disadvantage being the amount of lye/caustic soda they require (lye being dangerous if it spills because it causes serious chemical burns and could make one blind, though if done correctly it will not be on your final product. Also disadvantage of using much lye is it is watched in many places due to being used in meth production, so it might be suspicious to buy it, or even impossible to find, specially in some specific places of USA). Another possible disadvantage of STB teks is some people claim the final product is not as clean, its more yellow. Yellow dmt isnt necessarily a problem, though, some people even prefer it. Also, one can easily do a recrystalization (look below in the FAQ for explanation) which will effectively clean up the final product quickly and with very little solvent needed.

Then there are the A/B extractions (acid/base), such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Vovin%27s_tek Vovin's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Marsofold%27s_tek Marsofold's tek]. As the name suggests, the plant material is first simmered/boiled in acid 3x, filtered and later the base is added. The advantage being that when one is adding the base and mixing the solvent, the solids were already removed after the acid step, making it easier to mix the solvent, and easier to discard everything later. Also the acid step allows one to do a [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Defat_process Defat], though usually that is considered a wasteful way of cleaning up because it needs a lot of solvent for removing a bit of fats, which can be accomplished more efficiently with a recrystallization on the final product. The disadvantage of an A/B is that it takes longer because of the initial acid step, and if one isnt thorough enough in this acid step one will lose a lot of actives when discarding the solids before moving on to the Base step.

==== Links ====

* [[:Category:Extraction_Tek|Extraction Teks]]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1085 DMT Extraction Overview]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=318336#post318336 Art of liquid-liquid extraction - The basics]

=== What is the best tek? ===

There is no "best" tek. All teks featured in the Nexus Wiki should result in similar final product purity and yields, if correctly performed. Each tek has it's own characteristics regarding chemicals used, how long it takes, how thorough it's explained, if it includes optional clean up steps or not, etc. That is why, before deciding on one tek, it's important to read all (or at least some of them), also the "where to start" question above and the extraction overview linked there. That way you will have a better understanding of the processes instead of just blindly following a tek, which means you'll probably be more succesful with whichever tek you decide to use in the end.

=== Is my solvent/chemical OK to use? ===

Before using any solvent, one must make sure it is a clean evaporating solvent with no toxic/residual additives (or for other non-volatile chemicals used, make sure it has no toxic/unwanted additives). Always:

* Read the ingredients on the solvent's or chemical's label. Make sure it is pure with nothing appart from the desired chemical (for example: Naphtha/Aliphatic hydrocarbons)
* Google "solventbrand solvent/chemical msds", searching the brand of the solvent you have access to, to see if it has an msds, which usually contains more in depth information on what the product contains. For example "merck acetone msds". Or alternatively:
* Check the webpage linked in [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=165091#post165091 this thread] and see if your solvent and its contents is featured there
* VERY IMPORTANT: Always do an evaporating test before using a solvent for the first time: Add a quantity of the solvent to a glass/pyrex/plate (do NOT use a cd) and let it evaporate. If it leaves residues of any kind, dont use it. If it evaporates cleanly, chances are its ok to use.
* Check [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=14772 this] thread on whether your chem is ok to use or where to get the right chems.

=== Is this material or container ok to use with my chemicals? ===

The keyword to search is "Chemical compatibility" or "Chemical Resistance", plus the material and solvent/chemical you are looking for. Below are some good links to help you already find the information you want:

==== Link ====

* [http://www.nalgenelabware.com/techdata/chemical/index.asp Chemical Compatibility Search]
* [http://www.coleparmer.com/techinfo/chemcomp.asp Chemical compatibility database 2]
* [http://www.greenterpene.com/GreenTerpene_Product_Compatibility_s/48.htm Limonene compatibility chart]

=== Is plastic OK to use for my extraction? ===

In short, better not. If you are going to use anyways (NOT recommended), be sure to check what kind of plastic it is, and that its compatible with the chemicals used, as in the links of the previous question. But again, better not use plastic and only use glass, read links below for explanations why:

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=26324 Warning to those using plastic containers]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=340124#post340124 Using plastic for extractions]

=== What are the different bases one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired base.

* For [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH
* For [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH, Potassium Hydroxide/KOH
* For [[:Category:Dry_Technique|Dry tek]]: Calcium Hydroxide

=== What are the different acids one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired acid.

Plenty of different kinds of acid will work, but generally people preffer the first one on the following list:
* Vinegar (acetic acid)
* Lemon Juice (citric acid)
* Phosphoric Acid
* Hydrochloric Acid/HCl/Muriatic Acid.

NOTE: Sulfuric acid is not very well suited towards this extraction, as it reacts with lye to form sodium sulfate which is very poorly water-soluble. This may result in a generous white precipitate.

Reaction:

2NaOH + H2SO4 => Na2SO4 + 2H2O

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1556 Acids]

=== How can I convert sodium bicarbonate into sodium carbonate ===

==== Link ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Conversion_of_Sodium_Bicarbonate_into_Sodium_Carbonate Sodium bicarb -> carb conversion wiki]

=== How long each acid cook? ===

30 min - 2 hours cooks in a crockpot on low-medium (or just low fire on the stove). Some people avoid boiling and only simmer, but it appears DMT salts are very stable even at boil temperatures, so there doesnt seem to be diminishing yields when boiling. Also, it's important to stir once in a while during the acid cook.

=== How many acid cooks? ===

General consensus talks about 3 runs, 2 being minimum and 5 being over-careful.

=== Can I make one long cook instead of 3 shorter ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== Which ratio of MHRB:Lye:Water is the best? ===

For STBs, 1g MHRB:1g Lye:15ml Water is generally accepted as a good ratio. People have had success with significantly less water, but 15ml per g bark is a recommended amount because less than that might make the whole mixture too thick and it can make the separation of the solvent more difficult. Also, one actually needs much less lye but this amount of lye helps prevent emulsions forming as well helps break down the plant material so that dmt is more exposed to the water.

Alternatively, one can just add enough lye for the solution to turn completely black, and go ahead and extract. If emulsions form, add more lye. One does not need to worry about over-basifying, there's no such thing. Excess lye will stay behind in the water layer once you separate the solvent in any case.

=== Can I scale down/up the amounts stated in a tek if I want to extract different amounts of mimosa? ===

Yes, just scale the quantities proportionally according to your situation

=== Can I make one big pull instead of few smaller ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be significantly smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

==== Links ====

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== How big should the pulls be / How much to pre-evaporate before freezing? ===

100ml per pull per 200g bark (or a 2:1 ratio of bark:naphtha) is a sensible recomendation. More wont hurt but it will waste solvent as you will have to evaporate much afterwards. Less solvent per pull is even better, as long as you repeat more pulls to compensate. Sometimes people use more solvent than this recommended amount, like when for example if using this ratio in one's container the layers are too thin and it is hard to separate the solvent (though there are [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#How_to_pull_.2F_get_the_solvent_off_from_the_mix.3F tricks for better separation]). If the plan is to freeze precipitate and one uses more naphtha than the recommended amount, it is recommended to pre-evaporate the naphtha before freezing.

The amount that one should pre-evaporate depends of course on how much solvent used. The idea about pre-evap is that the solvent should be as saturated as possible with dmt so that most or all of it precipitates when put in the freezer. If its not saturated enough, then not much (or not at all) will precipitate. So if one used more than 3:1 ratio of bark:solvent, then pre-evaporate enough to reach the equivalent of it (so if one used, lets say, 100ml per 100g bark, pre evaporating till a third of original volume is recommended). [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=150095#post150095 Here's] an attempt to explain why not having it saturated enough may result in no or low yield

Later pulls will most likely be less saturated with dmt than first pulls, so for the later pulls (like lets say the 4th and 5th), it would be logical to pre-evaporate even more than the first pulls. In the example given above, instead of evaporating until a third of original volume, maybe one could evaporate until there is only a quarter or a fifth of original volume.

Some people gauge the amount of pre-evaporation by doing it until the solvent starts getting cloudy.

In any case, remember to re-use the naphtha after retrieving the crystals from precipitation, and/or evaporating it all the way down to see if there are any actives that remained in the naphtha after the freeze precipitation

If one is extracting a different plant or using a different solvent, then the ratio recommendation can change. Though in extractions that one salts out the solvent (like for example in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] and other limonene-based extractions), one can (and even should) use significantly more solvent, because all alkaloids will anyways be retrieved with the salting step.

=== The layers wont separate, what to do? ===

Possible fixes:
# Dont shake next time, if you did so! Instead, Stir/roll/turn upside down slowly, several times.
# Add more basic water/lye to the mix (either mix is not basic enough or too much plant matter for too little water)
# Make a warm water bath with the whole container (remember no fire sources near solvents, and leave top slightly open for preventing building up of pressure)
# Tapping on the side of the container/vibration (like sitting on top of washing mashine)
# Adding plenty of no-additives non-iodized salt (will make the water more polar and therefore chemically help in the separation)

====Links====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5866 Naphtha won' seperate?]

=== My Solvent is Brown/Dark, what to do ? ===

It happens for some people that after mixing the solvent with the mimosa solution, the naphtha picks up a lot of color and when the layers are separated, there is no emulsion but the naphtha is very dark, brown/burgundy. The exact reasons for this are still unknown, but it seems to happen mostly with STB extractions, powdered bark and heated pulls. It may be that there are microscopic suspended particles of the mimosa/black liquid which for some reason refuse to settle, but nobody yet knows for sure.

Considering this is not an emulsion issue (if so, it can be solved as stated [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#The_layers_wont_separate.2C_what_to_do.3F here]), this issue can be solved by:

1- Wait a few hours and see if the color settles and the solvent layer gets clearer.

2- Separate the pull as you would normally, and do a sodium carbonate wash (explanation also here in the FAQ). If the wash isnt sufficient to get the dark away, then :

3- Do a 'mini A/B' (mixing the separated dark solvent with vinegar 3x, separating the vinegar and discarding the solvent. Then basify the vinegar by adding lye, and pull with fresh solvent)

=== How to pull / get the solvent off from the mix? ===

* [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Each person finds his own way. One of the practical ways is to first, with HDPE or glass pipette/turkey baster/glass syringe, crudely separate the solvent and maybe a bit of the mimosa mix into a tall thin container. Then, with another pipette/glass syringe (or same one, washed), separate the solvent (it will be easier due to being thiner container, so solvent layer will be thicker than before) to the final container for evap or freeze precip. On this second separation, only pull out what you are sure you can do accurately, and the last bit throw back into the main container. Often people complain that the turkey baster wont hold the solvent well and will start releasing liquid as soon as you stop pulling. A [http://www.plastyshack.com/images/glass_syringe.jpg glass syringe] or pipette will work better, you can find them sold in lab/chem/medical supply stores or online in a variety of shops.

* [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Same as above, or also using a separatory funnel.

=== Should I wash my spice? ===

Washing spice has as a main function to eliminate any possible lye or other polar impurities (like droplets of the mimosa basic mix) from the final product, which might make the smoke harsher. Nevertheless, unless one was sloppy and some of the basic mimosa liquid came through to the solvent when separating, there should be nothing or very small amounts of it in your final product.

In any case if one feels better making sure the spice is cleaner (because we all know how important our mental state is in these experiences, even if its clean but if you're worried it might make the experience worse), or if one's spice is unusually harsh, then proceed to a sodium carbonate wash (DO NOT WASH WITH AMMONIA! Many people report losing yield with ammonia wash )

# Have your product still in the solvent, before evaporation/precipitation. If you have already in crystal form, redissolve in a naphtha/heptane/hexane.
# Add anywhere in between a pinch to 5 grams of sodium carbonate (yes, doesnt matter... All that is necessary is for it to be a basic solution) to 100ml clean water.
# Add your spice-containing solvent and the sodium carbonate solution together in a container. Mix/shake/whatever (emulsions will not form).
# Separate the solvent from the sodium carbonate solution using pippette/turkey baster/syphon/separatory funnel. One can repeat steps 2-4 if desired, but not strictly necessary
# Freeze precipitate or evaporate to retrieve your DMT

Remember that regardless of washing, its still very important to make sure there are no solvent traces in your spice, which can be done with thorough air drying, or redissolving your dmt in a non-toxic (or less toxic) solvent like ethanol, or pure IPA/Acetone, and evapping that again

=== No precipitation or low yield? ===

# Stir/mix and let separate the layers many times over a longer period of time before pulling the solvent out of the mix, dont just let it stand.
# Evap till theres only a quarter of the naphtha left and repeat freeze precip. If this doesnt help:
# Add more lye/base in the basic solution and try again, with small warm, thoroughly mixed pulls
# If its evapped and it seems like small amount of goo, it may actually be more than it seems because goo is heavier crystals. Recrystallize goo as FAQ instructions or infuse some herbs and weigh herbs before and after infusing to know exact yield.

Other possibilities:
* Bad mimosa/plant material
* Not the right solvent (if solvent has aromatics like xylene mixed in, it wont freeze precipitate, and will evap into a gooey product, mix of dmt and other plant impurities)

=== Melting/dissapearing crystals after freeze precipitation / Whats the best way to retrieve crystals after freezing? ===

This usually happens because of remaining solvent residues warming up and redissolving the crystals.

A trick to work around that is to freeze precipitate for a day or so (if you already have the melted crystals, then redissolve them in small amounts of warm naphtha and back into the freezer), and after crystals have precipitated, take it out of the freezer, pour the naphtha off (through coffee filter just in case any crystals are not stuck to the container), close the container and put it upside down in the freezer for some more hours. This way, any remaining naphtha trapped inside the crystals will drop off to the lid of the container on the bottom.

So after those few hours, take out out of the freezer, opening the lid still upside down so the naphtha drops off, and then you can scrape the drier crystals, put them on top of a coffee filter or on a plate/petri dish to finish air drying, and voilá.

The container used for precipitation is ideally something with a lid that closes well, like a mason jar, and that the edges and walls are straight so you can scrape it off more easily. Scrape as much as you can of the dmt, and whatever is left inside, leave it and reuse the container for the next precipitation, or if its the last precipitation of the extraction, you can use some alcohol (or even naphtha, if its clean evapping naphtha) to pick the last bits up and evaporate in a dish or easy to scrape flat-bottom wide container.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=2290 DMT crystals melting]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=72767#post72767 Question about freeze precipitation times]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3519 Yellow goo. Won't crystallize]

=== Only getting goo with Acacia extraction ===

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=39030 Getting crystals with Acacia confusa]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=440164 Enough GOO questions...]

=== How to safely heat a solvent ? ===

With the solvent safely stored far away, boil some water with any method you want. Once water is boiled, turn off heat source, get the solvent, put it in a glass and submerge the bottom of the glass on a pot containing your recently boiled water. In some seconds/minutes your solvent should be warm and you can use it for recrystallizing or pulling. NEVER warm up solvents directly with a heat source, specially no gas/open fire but even do not use electrical equipment unless it's a safe laboratory hotplate made for such purposes that will guarantee not to create sparks.

=== How does one recrystallize? ===

1- Boil some water. Turn off the fire.

2- Add your impure spice to a shotglass (weigh it before to know the amount).

3- Add around 20-30ml of naphtha/heptane/hexane per gram of impure spice to the shotglass.

4- submerge the bottom of the glass in the water. Leave it standing and/or stir it around a little bit. Most of the spice should redissolve in a few minutes, but probably a layer of goo will stay on the bottom.

5-Decant or pippette your naphtha away from the goo, put this naphtha in a clean container, close it, and into the freezer overnight for freeze precipitation. Alternatively, instead of freezing, if one wants to grow large crystals, put in a container with the lid semi-closed and/or in a place with very little air circulation, so that the naphtha evaporates very slowly. The slower the evap, the larger the crystal growth.

Its possible small amount of spice is still in the goo, so you can add another 5 or 10ml to the shotglass with the goo to pick up the last bits of dmt. This second pull will be more impure as it will pick some oils up, so freeze precipitate it separately. The goo can then be discarded

If one doesnt have a scale or for some reason cant weigh the spice, warm up a quantity of naphtha in a shotglass without the dmt and slowly add small quantities of the warm naphtha to the container containing dmt while stiring, until most dmt dissolved but a bottom layer of goo remains. Then follow step 5.
http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Can_I_make_one_long_cook_instead_of_3_shorter_ones.3F

==== Links ====

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=10545#post10545 Glass Shard Re-Crystallization Pictorial]

=== How many times can I reuse my solvent? ===

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=335995#post335995 On reusing non polar solvents]

=== What to do with the waste? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3072 What to do with the waste]

=== How Can I Extract DMT From Phalaris? ===

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phalaris_%28grass%29 Phalaris] is a genus of grasses with very variable alkaloid content, which means it's very hard or impossible to really say if a given Phalaris will have a good alkaloid content in terms of what alkaloids are present and in what amounts. Some Phalaris have very little to no DMT (or 5-MeO-DMT or Beta-Carbolines), and yet have plenty of potentially toxic alkaloids such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gramine gramine], while others have good amounts of wanted tryptamines and low gramine content. There are also tryptamines and beta-carbolines in Phalaris which have unknown activity and safety profile such as 5-MeO-NMT and others. This variability is especially the case with wild Phalaris or those grown from seeds so, for a more reliable alkaloid content, the clones of known strains such as AQ1, Big Medicine (for DMT) and Turkey Red (for 5-MeO-DMT) are probably a better bet.

'''Even though some people have reported some variable success, we do NOT recommend people to ingest a crude brew made with Phalaris grass due to the unknown amounts of possible toxic alkaloids. If using Phalaris, extract it first as mentioned below'''

If growing Phalaris yourself, [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/images/8/8a/Festiandsamorini.pdf this]publication goes over all the factors of growth that affect the alkaloid content. Please check it out. Here's some selected quotes:

* "The highest concentration (of alkaloids) is in the upper third part of the seedling leaf."
* "The total alkaloid concentration decreases with plant maturity"
* "Total alkaloids are more concentrated in the first regrowth, after the cutting or grazing, than in the first growth just after sowing, decreasing then in the following regrowths"
* "The availability of soil nitrogen increases the alkaloids concentration"
* "In soil, but not in nutrient solution cultivations, the concentration of indole alkaloids (...) increase is greater in plants supplied with ammonium nitrogen compared to the nitric source"
* "Samples of P. arundinacea growing with 20% of the full sunlight can contain an amount of DMT about twice compared to control; 5-MeO-DMT may increase up to a factor of 25"
* "DMT seems to show a maximum in the first hours of the morning, at least in shaded plants, whereas 5-MeODMT reaches a concentration peak in late morning"

Regarding the extraction itself, the plant should be extracted as soon as possible after harvesting since plant enzyme activity can break down alkaloids, even if drying the plant. If plant is not extracted immediately, it should be stored in an alcoholic solution in cold and dark. For extraction, a standard A/B could potentially work well, boiling plant material 3x in acidic water (pH anywhere from 1-6 should work), filtering, reducing to small manageable amount by low boil or simmering, and then basing with NaOH and pulling with solvent. Alternatively, a dry tek (check the nexus extraction teks wiki for more info) with calcium hydroxide or sodium carbonate could work but there haven't been enough tests to say for sure.

Regarding what solvents to use, hexane/heptane or equivalent solvents such as naphtha should work well as gramine is very poorly soluble in it, but if using naphtha make sure that it doesn't contain xylene or aromatics mixed in. Some people report specially low yields with naphtha and suggest cooking oil or room temperature limonene instead (check hippie salad oil tek link below) Cold/room temperature limonene also seems to work to separate tryptamines from gramine but more work needs to be done to make sure this separation is good enough. Check the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] for the most up-to-date info, since solubility tests on gramine are being done right now. If using naphtha or similar hydrocarbons, doing a recrystallization is a good idea to help removing other unwanted alkaloids that may have come across. Using less selective solvents like DCM, xylene, toluene or others (or acetone or alcohols in a dry tek) would pull the potentially toxic unwanted alkaloids, so its not recommended to use those, unless you do a clean up at the end

If you extract from Phalaris, we would be very thankful if you document the process (notes and/or pictures) and post so that we all can learn about the results, whether they are good or not. Please try smoking/ingesting only a very small amount at first if you do. Ideally, purchase colorimetric reagents such as marquis or ehrlich to help identifying the final product if it contains the wanted alkaloids (more info in the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] )

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=44863 Hippie salad oil tek v 2]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=16810&p=7 Phalaris way of the future thread]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=28869 PDF on processing phalaris]

=== Can I use another solvent like xylene after having pulled with naphtha? ===

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359465#post359465 Can SWIM Use Dif Solvents To Extract Different Ranges of Spice?]

== DMT Usage/Methods of administration ==

=== Is my spice ok to smoke? ===

Often people ask in the forum if their spice is ok to smoke, followed by a picture or description of the dmt's appearance. Nevertheless, there are several other variables which simple color does not tell, and which are essential to decide whether one shoud or not smoke it. Please check link below for detailed information:

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=11715 IMPORTANT: spice color purity fallacy AKA is your dmt ok to smoke ? ]

=== How to brew ayahuasca or analogues (mimosa hostilis / syrian rue)? ===

The standard way of brewing is to first of all have the material powdered/grinded or pounded as fine as possible. Then
* 1- boil on low fire (or simmer) the plant material for around three hours (some people do even longer but not necessary unless material is too coarsely shredded.. Also energetic/ecological costs become higher). Use mineral or distilled water ideally, some tap water can have too high pH and diminish yields/potency. Use enough water to cover the plant material.
* 2- filter/strain the brew to separate the liquids and solids, store the liquid separately,
* 3- add fresh water to the solids and boil everything again. Do this for a total of 3 or 4 times,
* 4- put the liquid from the 3 or 4x boils together, keep filtered/decanted solids separately for stp 6,
* 5- reduce the liquid on low fire/simmer to a manageable ammount, like for example 70ml per dose (dosages/amounts of each plant in [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this thread]

OPTIONAL:
* 6- If you want to be very thorough and get all the alkaloids out, you can now soak the plant material in vinegar for a day, then freeze and thaw it, then boil it for another hour or two. This should have a significant amount of alkaloids, which can either be extracted by basing and filtering like the Easy Caapi Extraction Tek, and the alkaloids added to the main brew (or consumed separately in some other occasion), or you could also consume this orally directly but due to the vinegar it will taste very bad, so it's better to at least base it with sodium carbonate slowly until it stops bubbling and/or reaches a pH of around 6, and then it will taste better.

The MAOI containing plant (banisteriopsis caapi vine or syrian rue) can be boiled together with the DMT containing plant (psychotria viridis or mimosa hostilis, or just add some extracted dmt in appropriate dosage to the caapi/rue brew), but specially if its the first time with a particular plant batch, its recommended to brew separately the two, and first find out the potency of the plant by drinking first a small amount.

An acid can be added to the brew (such as a dash of lemon or vinegar), but this is not strictly necessary (and neither the traditional indigenous way), specially if your plant is finely powdered, because alkaloids in the plant are naturally in water-soluble form. Though acid can increase the potency of the brew (specially for non-powdered plant material), it will also make it taste worse. To get the best out of all the worlds, its recommended to do step 6, so you have a better tasting brew without acid, but you still get any remaining alkaloids at the end in the final acid soak.

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8972 all about aya <3 ]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=51 Ayahuasca subforum]
* [[Ayahuasca using Syrian Rue & Acacia confusa]]

=== Whats the best smoking method? ===

The [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] gives some tips not only on vaporizing methods but other tips, check it out.

Different people preffer different methods. FORGET THE LIGHTBULB METHOD as it only works for a small percentage of people, most report problems.

-
==== '''Vaporgenie''' ====

A big number of people in the Nexus claim the vaporgenie to be the best vaporizing method by far! The vaporgenie is claimed to be significantly more effective as well as having a much smoother vapor than other smoking methods so if one is having trouble with harsh smoke or low effects, try the vaporgenie out. The Glass VaporGenie is recommended but otherwise the classic one will work perfectly fine.

The first thing if you're vaporizing pure DMT, is to get a [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=42867 ceramic disc] or a volcano liquid pad and cut it up to fit the vaporgenie, otherwise the DMT will melt through the screens, even if it's multiple screens. Check the vaporgenie thread linked below for more details

Begin with the flame a few cms above the top and adjust as you go. With empty lungs, start inhaling slowly and steady. The idea is to inhale a dense vapour, but not too dense so that you start coughing. Its better to begin the inhaling with a not so dense smoke, and then make it denser towards the end. Keep the vapor in the lungs for as long as possible, at least 10 seconds. If you coughed or exhaled before this or couldnt inhale with all the lungs, try keeping the flame further away or adjusting the speed of inhaling so that its a bit less dense.

Usually it takes anywhere between 1-3 hits, or anywhere between 25-50mg for a full breakthrough, if you got your technique right. A torch lighter is recommended, but a normal lighter will also work fine.

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=39961#post39961 VG VaporGenie: How to use, where to get, advantages, etc]

- If you cant or dont want to afford a vaporgenie, a good possibility is to make your own vaporization tool like:

===='''amorfati's Inspirator MKII'''====

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8985 Link to how to build/use the Inspirator mKII]

For a vaporization to be really effective, the DMT should be heated by convection (hot air), not conduction (hot glass/pipe/material), so vaporgenie and inspirator are recommended. If you dont want to use these methods, there are other possibilities which are less effective and risk burning DMT instead of just vaporizing, but it does work decently enough for many people:

===='''- Bong/leaf bed/enhanced leaf'''====

One method also considered successful by some is in a water bong (or plain bong), with a couple of metal screens, a thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on the bottom, then the dmt in the middle, and then another thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on top.
It is essential to go very easy on the fire, because too much heat will degrade DMT. Keep the lighter as far away as possible so that it still vaporizes but doesnt over-heat your DMT
50mg seems to be a good dose if one wants to really go inside the dmt dimension. Inhale slowly and deeply, holding in the lungs as much as possible (at least a few seconds), exhaling, and then taking a second, third one if possible, and even fourth one if one still can. Even if after the first there are already some effects, if one really wants to breakthrough, gotta keep going as much as one can.

Specifically for enhanced leaf check link below

====''' The Machine'''====

Check links below

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=39961#post39961 VG VaporGenie: How to use, where to get, advantages, etc]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6014 Helps and tips for smoking spice]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=280594 My version of the "Machine" - How to make it in <15 minutes]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6131 Ban the Bulb - Modify the Machine]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to enhanced leaf changa]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5633 Thoughts on using a VaporGenie]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6317 Troubles with The Machine]

=== I dont get any effects/light buzz only, what to do? ===

99% of the times, when people do not get effects, they are having a bad vaporization method, most likely burning the sspice. Try one of the methods above, and considering it is dmt and one smokes it right, it should work. Other possibility is that one has a very impure product with too much plant oils and so on. One can perform one or more recrystalizations to get a purer product that is easier to weight accurately and vaporize, and then try methods above.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=86732#post86732 Trouble Breaking Through???]

=== Fear going into a trip ===

If you're afraid of dark things coming from inside of you and are not willing to face them, you should not consume any psychedelics at all...

If you're afraid but willing to face them, then that's another thing.

And whether it's changa, pharma, or aya or vaporized DMT, it doesn't matter much, those dark things can come out with one or the other.

A low dosage may help, yes, and so can a proper set and setting, but this is no guarantee you won't be facing what you fear the most. It can, and most likely will happen at some point, whether now or after a certain number of experiences. Whenever we take psychedelics, it's as if we sign a contract saying we accept all those possibilities. So think well before signing, and if you do sign, make sure to get all the preparations right before the time come, take it in a proper context and to humbly accept whatever may come, take responsibility for it, and learn from it.

==== Link ====

*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=470491#post470491 Suddenly concerned]

=== Denied breakthrough / Dark DMT trips / Not good experiences anymore ? ===

It happens with several people that they feel they aren't getting good experiences anymore, that the trips are consistently of dark motifs, negative feelings, or that the breakthrough is denied, regardless of dosage. There isn't a ready answer for why this happens, but it seems a few factors may be related to it. In many cases, this happens when people are having a regular or excessive DMT use, or when they haven't been dedicating enough to their daily lives, to [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration integration] of the experiences. Also, it may have in some cases to do with the intentions one sets before vaporizing the DMT, and with how one's mind state and the context in general is.

So a few tips on how to deal with this issue:

1- Take a break! The DMT hyperspace will always be there, there is no rush to go right now! Stop your DMT usage (and maybe drug usage altogether), dedicate to daily life, live a balanced healthy life, eat well, exercise, study, work. Do not obsess about DMT, try to only come back once you feel you have really made enough effort in improving your daily life. At least a few months break is recommended.

2- If and once you do decide to try it again, make sure it is a good place and time for it. Take care with using in the best set and setting possible (look further down the FAQ for recommended setting).

3- Do not smoke it impulsively. Meditate or spend a few minutes in silence, concentrating, breathing deeply and slowly.

4- Set your intentions straight. Question yourself why you are doing this. Try to have the best intentions and reasons as possible.

5- Use a good smoking method such as the vaporgenie or others as recommended above.

6- If it still doesnt work out for you, take an even longer break (many months/years), and/or stop it altogether. Realize that maybe DMT is just not for you. Its not a problem to admit one's relationship with a substance is not working, in fact, it shows you're being humble and conscious.

==== Link ====

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration Health and Safety section: Integration]
* [http://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=169680#post169680 what happened to the bright side?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=13515 Vaporized DMT not having an effect in those who it has worked for previously]

=== What are the dosages for ... ? ===

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 Dosages and different forms of ingestion]

=== What is the best setting/context to consume spice? ===

Check [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] for some tips on setting, preparation and also integration

* A comfortable quiet place is generally recommended. If there are friends around they should be requested to remain quiet while someone is embarking on this experience and only start speaking once the explorer talks himself and allows others. Possibility of telefone ringing or street noises or other interruptions is definitely NOT recommended.
* The presence of music or not depends a lot on personal taste. Some prefer full silence to 'concentrate' more deeply and mention that any stimulus keeps them too grounded in usual reality, while others can have very deep interconnected experiences with certain music of their own preference (often being some kind of chill out/ambient/ethno ).
* Many people preffer full darkness or indirect lighting, but sunset or sunrise in a nice nature place (if safe) can also be marvelous.
* Obviously '''DO NOT''' have sharp objects around, smoke next to cliffs, driving etc...
* It is very rare, but it may happen that one feels nauseated and/or vomits, so specially first times or those doing alone, its also recommended to have a bucket nearby, and to sit comfortably, resting the back against something soft in a way that you wont slip or fall, such as an armchair, bed with backrest/pillows or comfortable sofa.
* While we are not aware of any deaths, it would be irresponsible to discount the possibility that blocking your airway while deep in hyperspace could prove fatal, so be in a position/place where you are safe even if not conscious of the surroundings. During traditional ayahuasca ceremonies participants sit on the floor or in a comfortable chair. We recommend sitting upright (slightly reclined for stability) comfortably because the launch is far more immediate and surprising with vaporised DMT. Think of it as your pilot seat- you wouldn't fly a plane any other way!
* If you do not have a sitter to take the pipe from you, be sure that you have a safe and easy place very near to put it down when you feel hyperspace approaching. You will not be inclined to move your hand very far, so we would recommend a fireproof shelf of sorts less than a foot away. Just smoking cigarettes in bed kills many people every year, and obviously the same dangers are relevent with DMT. We have heard one report of a member who returned from an unenjoyable trip to find that she had dropped the pipe onto her leg, resulting in a nasty burn.
* Prior meditation or at least focusing on intention and inner calm can be benefiting.
* Remember to let go, dont struggle. Its normal that the hearbeat accelerates in the come up. Some people fear they are dying or that they wont return, but dont worry FOR SURE you come back, as it has happened with everybody else. Some people feel that they lose their breath, but its just a feeling.. As long as the airway is not physically blocked, then dont worry our body has a built-in mechanism that prevents one from stopping breathing.
* Dont be scared, entities cant hurt you in real life if you dont believe it. Try to not make 'good/bad' judgements during the experience, dont resist!! Just go with the flow of the ride. Some images may appear positive, negative, incredible, impossible to describe, etc, but you are safe regardless of what comes.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5900 Favourite setting for smoking DMT]

=== What about other ingestion methods (intranasal, intrarectal, Atomizer/E-cig etc) ? ===

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods Ingestion Methods]

=== Can DMT be IVed? ===

It can, but we do not recommend it mainly for two reasons:

1- The only official research done with DMT by Rick Strassmann used FDA-approved very pure DMT fumarate. The quality of home extraction products might be questionable, one may have solvent traces and other impurities that could be uncomfortable, painful or downright dangerous to inject.

2- The onset of the effects are so quick that one might not be able to take out the needle in time and accidentally ripping their vein out while in hyperspace, or putting it down too near and rolling around/puncturing oneself

If one still decides to do it, then please: Use food-safe/USP grade chemicals to extract, take care in making many purifying steps (several recrystallizations/washes) and making sure it has no solvent or other chemical traces in the final product (redissolving the recrystallized product in USP grade acetone or ethanol and re-evaporating, scrapping and letting it dry completely before converting to fumarates in a sterile solution, etc.). Check the first link below for tips on how to prepare for injection and safety proceedures

Also, for the first try, take at most 0.2mg/kg, preferably less. And VERY importantly, [[do NOT do it by yourself]], have a sitter that is experienced with needles inject for you and be there to make sure you are physically safe.

==== Links ====

* [http://www.hipforums.com/newforums/showpost.php?p=6347899&postcount=5 Entheogen Review article on safe injection proceedure]
* [http://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4128 iv dmt]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1521 IV DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3016 IV DMT?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=144148 Injecting DMT]
* [http://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=7450 FASA safe for injection?]

=== How can I estimate the amount of mimosa? ===

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=236540#post236540 Estimating mimosa amount]

== DMT/Plant storage ==

=== Does DMT go bad? ===

The main degradation product of dmt seems to be dmt n-oxide, which is also psychoactive. Some people enjoy and find qualitative difference in n-oxide compared to dmt. On the other hand, other people report negative experiences with old spice, but it is unknown how much is self-suggestion and how much is really true. The rate at which dmt converts to n-oxide logically depends on factors such as air exposure and temperature, but so far there havent been any quantitative tests to tell how fast it goes in a given condition.

In any case, n-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

Many people convert the freebase to dmt fumarate for storage, as its claimed to be a more stable salt.

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1553 DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=302112#post302112 DMT oxidation rate]

=== Does mimosa go bad? ===

Generally mimosa should not go bad even after months/years. If it looks fine and doesnt have some mutant fungus growing on it, its perfect :) There are reports of people using mimosa that was for many months or even years in a drawer without any significant problem (though as with anything, its always more prudent to store in dark, dry, cold place).

The main possible degradation is of dmt into dmt n-oxide. Dmt n-oxide is also psychoactive, but it is not soluble in naphtha, which may cause some people to get small yields when extracting from older bark. N-oxide is soluble in limonene/xylene/toluene/etc, so one could extract it with those solvents without loss of yield. Alternatively, N-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

For oral usage of mimosa, formation of n-oxide wouldnt really affect much as it will be water soluble so one will still get the effects when consuming the brew.

==== Links ====
* [[DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3570 How long should MHRB keep]

=== Whats the best way to store DMT? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

In any case, one can also convert to dmt fumarate which is a very stable salt form of dmt

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4482 Long-term storage]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4867 How to store DMT for longest]

=== Whats the best way to store Mimosa? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

Logically, bark in pieces will keep better than when powdered

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1488 Storing mimosa hostilis]

== DMT Allies ==

=== What is jungle spice ? ===

http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359543#post359543
Jungle Spice is the product resulting from an extraction of mimosa hostilis using a solvent more polar than naphtha (such as xylene, toluene, limonene, ether, DCM, etc). Sometimes people also call it JimJam, which was first called only for limonene extracted products, but analysis shown it to be equivalent to what is extracted with xylene. Chemical analysis has shown that both naphtha as well as xylene/limonene extract mostly DMT (around 90%), plus around or under 1% 2-methy-1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-beta-carboline (2MTHBC) and NMT. The psychoactivity of 2MTHBC is unknown at this point, and NMT does appear to be psychoactive, though a quarter of the potency of DMT. Appart from these mentioned alkaloids, Xylene, when evaporated, and both limonene or xylene, when salted with an acidic solution like vinegar or FASW, also yield around 0.2% MTHBC (tetrahydroharman), and what could be 1,2-dimethyl-tetrahydrobetacarboline or a yuremamine degradation product (as suggested by dozuki in the jungle spice analysis thread linked below). Very little to nothing is known about these two 'extra' beta-carbolines in junglespice/jimjam, if they are psychoactive or can potentiate DMT.

Some people claim jungle spice to be stronger or produce a different experience than pure DMT. This may be self-suggestion (people thinking it is stronger/different therefore feeling it), it may be that the inactive oils/impurities present in jungle spice somehow protect DMT from heat, making a more effective vaporization, and therefore feel stronger. It may also be that the beta carbolines together, have a synergistic effect with DMT making a stronger experience, or it may be that these beta carbolines would only really be noticeable if they were in a larger quantity as is the case with some Acacias. It may be a mixture of any or all of the above possibilities.

Only further testing (such as blind self-experiments and more analysis) will help us isolating the variables and answer the questions on junglespice's activity

For more information on jungle spice, check the links below

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1115 Jungle Spice]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=10553 Jungle Spice chemical analysis]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23544 Entheogenic effects of NMT]

=== What is changa / How to make changa ? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Changa Changa WIKI]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to DMT enhanced leaf (changa)] thread
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=27537 How does your changa looks like ?] thread

=== What type of caapi/ayahuasca vine should I use, what are the differences ? ===

Different ethnobotanical suppliers seem to stock different varieties of caapi. Often they use color names (for example black caapi, white caapi, etc), or other names used by local / mestizos / indigenous people (caupuri, ourinhos, etc). The problem is that there is no consensus regarding the classification of different caapi vines, so some indigenous people may recognize 2 types, in another tribe they may recognize 10 types, and so on. These types may overlap or they may even be in contradiction with each other. Also botanists would not necessarily agree with those types, as sometimes classification from indigenous people is not based on how a plant looks, but also on its effects, purpose, etc. In fact, some of what is sold as "black/red/whatever caapi" may even be of a different genus/species altogether (more discussion on this on links below)

There is an ongoing analysis project going on with different caapi/ayahuasca vines (link below), and it seems some caapis have very similar alkaloid/chemical component even if they have different names, while others may have quite different content even if they are named the same. The difference can be in ratio of alkaloids or total alkaloid yield, for example some black caapi from one vendor yielded over 2% alkaloids, a black caapi from another vendor yielded 0.5%.

Regarding the type/function/effects of different caapis, at this point any conclusions and generalizations are not possible. As an example, at times it's said that black caapi is used for more witchcraft kind of rituals by some shamans, but this doesnt mean that: a- that particular group is "correct", b-that other groups would agree with what they call "black caapi", c- That the black caapi you find is equivalent to that, d- that you cant use it for another purpose and have a great experience regardless.

It may be that there is a pattern between alkaloid content of different caapi vines (some may have more harmaline, or more THH, etc), but at this point we cannot yet say. Also even if a correctly identified subtype of caapi would have a specific alkaloid content, we would still have to make the assumption that the vendors are actually identifying correctly.

If you want to decide what type of caapi to get, one thing you could do is check the suppliers section and see if this specific caapi from the specific vendor has been reviewed, and dont believe in generalizations (all caapi "X" is strong and gives dark trips, all caapi "Y" is light and for beginners). Start with low dosage (10-20g) for the first time to gauge the strenght of this particular batch you have acquired, and then raise the dosage accordingly if necessary.

Another thing to do is to buy at least 2 different types and then take them in separate occasions, and then sharing the results with the community, and that way we all grow together.

Do check the links below as they have very relevant discussions regarding the different caapi types:

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29967 Caapi analysis thread]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32018 Poorly understood family of ayahuasca vines]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=30106 tetrapterys methystica (painted caapi) and other kinds of caapi]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=325495#post325495 Which caapi should I get ?]

== Plant sources ==

=== What are the best DMT-containing plants in my area ? ===

One good way to check what DMT plants you have around you is to look at the Nexus Wiki lists for [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT plants containing DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT] ) . Then use the search function of [http://www.discoverlife.org discoverlife page] or [http://bonap.org/genera-list.html bonap] to search the plants names and see in the species map if any of the good candidates grow near you, or alternatively, you can first identify the plants growing around you and search for their scientific name on the mentioned wiki lists.

If you don't find any plants growing around you, you can consider cultivating some ideal plants yourself, for example checking out the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=38229 Top Acacias To Grow Worldwide Thread] for the mid-long term, or getting known cuttings of phalaris with good alkaloid content such as AQ1 and big medicine (for more info check all the links in the first post of the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]) which can be harvested pretty quick

=== Does this plant contain DMT ? ===

Often people ask in the forum if the plant they have growing around them contains DMT. Then they might post pictures of the plants and expect an identification. Before that is done, the person asking needs to do some basic things:

1- Look up the information to know the plants that contain interesting alkaloids. The best resources are the Nexus wiki of plants containing [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT].

If it's an Acacia, read the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Acacia information thread] and if it's a Phalaris read the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]. Those threads contain information on seed suppliers, geographic location, season of harvest, conditions of growth and variation in alkaloid content, etc, which the person should become familiar with.

2-The person should try to identify the local plants based on the information in the above links. Posting picture of random plants without at least having some clue on what they could be, will only make everybody's life much harder. Look up images of suspected plants and compare, see in what they may differ.

3- Take detailed pictures of the different plant parts (overall plant, leaf close up front and back, seedpods and flower close ups if they are there). Often to differentiate between species the details are important, so blurry bad quality pictures or single pictures with no close ups or details of different plant parts are not enough.

4- Post your ID request in the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=358663#post358663 Acacia ID thread] if it's a suspected Acacia, or make a new thread if it's a differen't plant. Be sure to say what plant you think it is, and include information such as general geographic area, the detailed pics above, and any possible differences you may have seen with the plant you think it is.

5- If your plant gets identified and you plan on harvesting, please only harvest sustainably! Check [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=344487#post344487 this] post for more information

=== Links ===

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33512 Guide to Researching Psychoactive Plants: Resource List]'''

'''[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Containing_Plants WIKI -> DMT Containing Plants]'''

'''[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Botanicals WIKI -> Botanicals]'''

'''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=369566#post369566 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa ID stuff.zip]'''

'''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33648 Acacia Identification Thread]'''

'''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Trying to improve Acacia information]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia ID stuff.zip]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Phalaris.zip Phalaris.zip]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=34525 Phalaris/other grass types ID thread]'''

'''[http://www.erowid.org/plants/phalaris/phalaris_images.shtml Erowid.org -> Phalaris Grass Images]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=173732#post173732 help identifying Phalaris arundinacea]'''

'''[http://extension.entm.purdue.edu/caps/pestInfo/reedCanaryGrass.htm extension.entm.purdue.edu -> Reed Canary Grass]'''

.

== Reference ==
<references/>

FAQ - DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide

2014-05-16T12:32:04Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Links */

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of the 'DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide'<ref>DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide
[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6341]</ref>.}}

== DMT overview ==

=== What is DMT, Where do I learn the basics? ===

DMT is a naturally occuring substance, present in trace amounts in normal human metabolism (and its purpouse is unknown, check question [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Is_it_true_the_pineal_gland_produces_DMT_naturally_and_is_involved_in_dreaming.3F 2.1] , as well as in a variety of plants and animals.

It can be extracted from some of these plants and smoked for some very strong psychedelic/entheogenic effects lasting 10 minutes. It can also be taken orally, but we have an enzyme (MAO) in our stomach that destroys dmt if taken orally, so for taking orally DMT must be acompanied by a substance that inhibits this enzyme (MAOI, or MAO Inhibitor), which is also present in some other plants.

Ayahuasca, a sacred drink used by indigenous people of the Amazon, is an example of a drink made from a dmt-containing plant (Psychotria viridis), together with a MAOI containing plant (Banisteriopsis caapi), that is drank orally for a psychedelic/entheogenic experience lasting around 4 hours.

When smoking, we do not need to use MAOI because we do not have MAOs in our lungs. Nevertheless, some people like to also ingest MAOIs before vaporizing DMT, or vaporizing a MAOI together with the DMT (such as in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ_-_DMT_Frequently_Asked_Questions_and_Troubleshooting_Guide#What_is_changa_.2F_How_to_make_changa_.3F changa]), to make the experience last longer.

For learning more about DMT, this whole webpage is dedicated to it. Here's a few links

==== Links ====

* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dimethyltryptamine Wikipedia DMT Link]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/ The Dmt Nexus Wiki]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ Frequently Asked Questions]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=forum Main Dmt Nexus Forum]

=== Are there different types of DMT? ===

DMT can be in salt form or in freebase form. A salt form means the DMT is attached to an acid molecule. DMT is naturally in salt form in the plants because of plant acids (for example dmt tannate or oxalate due to tannic or oxalic acid being present in some plants). When people extract DMT, they can make it in freebase form to smoke, because DMT in salt form can't be smoked, it has high boiling point and breaks down instead of vaporizing efficiently. Some salt forms like DMT fumarate can even be toxic to smoke due to creation of maleic anhydride during combustion.

Appart from being naturally in brews made of DMT containing plants like ayahuasca, DMT can also be made into salt for, for example DMT fumarate, when people extract it, because DMT fumarate is stable and can be stored for long, and it can be taken orally or intranasally. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods this] for more info. Regarding dosages in different salt forms, one can read [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this] thread. Each salt form of DMT have their own weight depending on the acid molecule weight (for example DMT fumarate's weight is around 76% DMT, 24% fumaric acid), so dosages could be adjusted proportionately to the amount of DMT when ingesting, but since each person is differently sensitive to DMT and since salt form may be a bit more effective to ingest orally, this "salt weight calculation" is not really necessary for DMT, one can just ingest according to [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 these] recommendations, starting low for first time, and adjusting according to own sensitivity and batch the next time.

There are other molecules which have the DMT structure built into them but they are not DMT, they have structural modifications, for example 4-HO-DMT also known as psilocin and 4-PO-DMT, psilocybin, the active compounds in mushrooms, which are different molecules altogether with their own particular effects. Small modifications in molecules can completely change effects. So psilocybin, psilocin, 5-MeO DMT, and 5-HO-DMT (bufotenine), plus others, are all different molecules, they are NOT the same as DMT. Each of them has different effects, pharmacology, etc etc. On the other hand, DMT freebase or DMT in salt form (tannate, acetate, fumarate) are all DMT.

== DMT Chemistry and Body ==

=== Is it true the pineal gland produces DMT naturally and is involved in dreaming and death? What does DMT do in the body? ===

At this point there is no evidence to support the claim that DMT is produced in the pineal or brain. It is a speculation raised by Dr Rick Strassman due to his previous interest in the pineal. So far in humans, the key enzymes necessary for this have [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=5549 not been found present in the human brain], therefore it seem more likely it is produced elsewhere in the body, though some recent research has shown in primates these enzymes are present in pineal gland. In any case nothing is really proven yet so we must avoid making claims before more data comes in.

The supposed connection of DMT and dreams, and the idea that DMT is released when we die, both are speculation with no real evidence to back them up.

It IS proven, though, for decades already, that DMT is produced in the human body and is present at all times in trace amounts, for unknown functions (which could be several functions, see last link below).

==== Links ====

*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18834 Zero proof DMT is made in the brain]
*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=295746#post295746 I dislike the "DMT is responsible for your dreams" theory]
*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18394 Rethinking DMT and the Pineal Gland]
*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18448 The functions of DMT in our body: If DMT would be a neurotransmitter]

=== Is DMT dangerous? ===

Researches have been made showing the relative safety of dmt. It does not cause physical damage, addiction, and any tolerance disappears very quickly. Ayahuasca, the dmt-containing brew from the Amazon, has been studied by multidisciplinary groups in Brazil and other countries and was shown that in a careful context, it presents no negative cognitive/psychiatric/social consequences, even in adolescents.

There is yet little research into vaporized dmt, but there seems to be no sign that it is in any way more dangerous physically than other administration forms. There are no reported deaths from smoking DMT. Smoking it will not lead to a dangerous overdose because the onset is so quick that one can only inhale a certain amount before being gone to ´hyperspace', without being able to smoke more until one is down again.

However:
* People with extreme heart or other conditions for whom strong emotions could be dangerous are contra-indicated, just like a roller coaster would for them.
* It is important to notice that with any psychedelic, it is a very powerful emotional/mental experience, so those with personal or family psychiatric history, unstable emotionally or going through some very difficult moments in life should be extremely careful.
* Also, it is possible that during the experience, one temporarily loses orientation in the consensus reality, so smoking/ingesting next to a cliff, sharp objects, etc, is not a good idea. BE IN A PHYSICALLY SAFE ENVIRONMENT!
* DO NOT use MAOIs (so for example an ayahuasca brew) together with stimulants or SSRI medication

Appart from that, there are psychological issues to be considered. Please read the health and safety section linked below, as well as the scientific articles also linked below.

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety Health And Safety Section]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1441 Scientific Articles on DMT/Ayahuasca/Psychedelics]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4400 Long term effects of smoking DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5843 DMT After-Effects]

=== Is a MAOI diet / Ayahuasca fasting necessary? What kind of dangers are there with medication interaction? ===

Unlike some pharmaceutical MAOI, the Harmalas, alkaloids present in the caapi vine and syrian rue are reversible inhibitors of MAO-A, while Tyramine, the component in some food that could cause problems in big amounts, is eliminated partly by MAO-A and but also partly by the intact MAO-B ([http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 source] ). Also for some pharmacological reason as shown in [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_fig9big.jpg this] diagram, tyramine can still be partly metabolized by MAO-A even during the harmala effects.

In other words, in terms of '''food''' interaction, the danger with reversible MAOI use (in for example ayahuasca or pharmahuasca with harmalas) and food interaction is very reduced. The necessity of the very strict dieting for ayahuasca with extensive list of what one must absolutely not eat is an exaggeration, though it is advised to eat light because extreme amounts of tyramine in some specific foods could theoretically still be a potential problem.

There seem to be no reports of actual life-threatening events with tyramine-containing foods and harmalas. There are even people that purposely ate tyramine-containing foods with no ill effects, but there have also been reports of negative symptoms such as very strong headaches and negative body load when mixing a heavy food consumption before/during/after harmala consumption. Several other variables may also be involved that are unrelated to tyramine and harmala-food interaction (variables such as for example exhaustion from the trip, vasodilation, the body/ayahuasca telling the person to 'eat better' in general, etc). Headaches seem specially common when mixing beer and harmalas.

In any case, it is generally considered common sense to eat light before and after the use of ayahuasca and analogues (and psychedelics in general). Just follow your good sense and you should be fine. To eer on the side of caution, the food to avoid eating (or over-eating) is aged or fermented food specially aged cheese, fermented or smoked meat (fish included) and soy products (though some soy products have also been found to have little tyramine content). Beer should also be avoided as some people have experienced negative interaction between MAOIs and beer. Apart from that, there are no real restrictions, eat lightly and all should be good :)

In relation to how long to wait after the last food before taking ayahuasca, this is very personal. Some like to have empty stomach and be fasting for 6 or more hours, but this is not necessary, and others feel it is even negative to fast for so long, because a too empty stomach might make one very tired during the ceremony, specialy at the end, and can also make purging a specially difficult or uncomfortable experience. Some consider better to have eaten something light (like some fruits or cereal or light sandwhich) a couple of hours before ingesting ayahuasca/analogues.

Remember: With the exception of moclobemide, which stands in the same category as harmalas as far as reversibility and food interaction goes, avoid all other pharmaceutical MAOIs !! Pharmaceutical irreversible MAOIs are VERY dangerous to take without taking strong precautions with food and drug interaction.

'''What IS dangerous is interaction between any MAOIs (including harmalas) and stimulants or some medication''' such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_serotonin_reuptake_inhibitor SSRI] medication such as prozac, or stimulants such as amphetamines or others. If you're taking SSRI's, do not consume MAOIs!! Do not mix stimulants with MAOIs either! Mixing stimulants/SSRIs with MAOIs can cause Serotonin Syndrome which may lead to convulsions or even death. For pharmaceuticals and substances that should NEVER be taken when consuming harmalas, check [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 1] and [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 2]

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29131 Do you experience tyramine interaction with harmalas?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5711 Will smoked Rue cause MAOI?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5398 Think iv cracked it]
* [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=tyramine%20food%20table&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CFMQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fddr.nal.usda.gov%2Fbitstream%2F10113%2F7351%2F1%2FIND43817287.pdf&ei=PpvsT8zAEsXAhAehj-nPBQ&usg=AFQjCNGKR57Q_VTqzOjKxfvKbu0kDTB8Ng&cad=rja Scientific publication on food containing tyramine]
* [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 scientific publication on interaction of MAOIs and tyramine]

== DMT and Society ==

=== Is dmt legal? ===

Posession and sales of DMT in its pure extracted/synthesized form is illegal, schedule 1 in USA and controlled by United Nations and can land you in jail if found in most countries.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/dmt/dmt_law.shtml Erowid DMT Law Vault]

=== '''Are the natural ingredients such as mimosa, and ayahuasca, illegal?''' ===

'''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=21527 On the Legal Status of DMT Source Plants in the US (with a discussion of the religious use defense)]'''

==== Links ====

* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/ayahuasca/ayahuasca_law.shtml Erowid Ayahuasca Law Vault]
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/plants/mimosa/mimosa_law.shtml Erowid Mimosa Law Vault]

=== Whats the price of dmt / Can I trade dmt? ===

'''[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Attitude_Page#No_discussion_on_selling.2C_buying.2C_sourcing.2C_acquiring.2C_pricing.2C_trading.2C_mentioning_pending_deliveries_or_smuggling_of_drugs No discussion on selling, buying, sourcing, acquiring, pricing, trading, mentioning pending deliveries or smuggling of drugs].'''

'''DO NOT BUY OR SELL DMT!''' We at the nexus are against selling/profiting with this incredible substance. We do not know and we do not want to know how much it costs in the street, we do not want it to be sold on the streets! This is not only disrespectful and shows a lack of understanding about the power of this substance, but its also a liability for the whole community. Dealing/trading DMT can attract the attention of authorities and create a problem not only for yourself but for all others in the community.

'''Talking about DMT sales or trade will result in suspension from the forum!'''

All the reasons why we dont believe in it are listed in the thread below

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3414 Street Value of DMT (and why you should never sell it) ]

== DMT Extraction ==

=== Where to start? ===

There are several ways of extracting DMT, and different ways use different chemicals and take different time. It is recommended that before embarking on extracting, one reads up at least a couple of different teks (link on the bottom) to understand the processes.

The basics of an extraction is:

DMT is present in many plant materials and can be isolated through simple processes. Most commonly used plant is [[Mimosa hostilis]] root bark, but there are other plants with good alkaloid profile such as certain Acacias and certain strains of [[Phalaris spp.]]

DMT in an acidic solution is in salt form and therefore water soluble, while DMT in a basic solution becomes a freebase and not water soluble but rather soluble in non-polar solvents (like limonene, naphtha, xylene, etc). This works similarly to most other alkaloids, with a few exceptions, for example harmalas freebase dont dissolve in the solvents mentioned above, but when you add a base to a solution containing harmalas, they just precipitate and you can filter them.

Back to DMT, non-polar solvents separate from water like oil, it stays as a layer on top. By playing with the pH (adding an acid or a base) you make the dmt move from one place to the other while most of other impurities dont, and then you separate the layers by pippeting/separatory funnel/decanting, and then retrieve the dmt from the non-polar solvent by evaporating it or freeze-precipitating (putting it in a closed container in the freezer, and as the temperature goes down the solubility of dmt in the solvent diminishes, so after some hours dmt precipitates and can be retrieved). There are differences depending on the process of extraction you use (for example limonene can't be evaporated and neither freeze precipitated, it's usually salted, as described in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB], but that is, in a very general way, how it works.

There are some new developed teks for extracting dmt with food-safe materials and/or no petro-chemical solvents, such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] , [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Nontoxic_Approach_to_Spice_Extraction Amor Fati's approach], or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek Q21Q21's extraction tek]. The biggest advantage is, as said, the use of relatively non-toxic material and no petrochemicals but instead solvents such as limonene, which is basically pure orange oil. The disadvantage is that to retrieve the dmt from limonene, you cannot evaporate it (as limonene doesnt evaporate cleanly, it leaves gooey residues), and freeze precipitation also doesnt work (as even in freeze temperatures, dmt is still too soluble in it so it doesnt precipitate), so there are 2 extra steps, which are to 'salt out' the limonene by mixing it with an acidic solution, evaporating that solution and then freebasing the resulting product if one wants to smoke it (or just keeping the salt for storage or oral consumption), as explained in the teks mentioned above. These steps are just as easy as any other step done in the earlier steps of the extraction but the fact that its two extra steps means some extra time and work which some people might not want.

There are also the standard STB (straight-to-base) teks that have been used a lot before the food-safe/limo teks, the two most common being [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Noman%27s_tek Noman's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Lazyman%27s_tek Lazyman Tek]. The mimosa (or whatever plant material extracted) is put straight in a basic solution from the beginning, with no acid-adding step, and hence the name. The advantage of STBs generally being that they need less steps, maybe simpler for beginners, and can usually be quicker, and the main disadvantage being the amount of lye/caustic soda they require (lye being dangerous if it spills because it causes serious chemical burns and could make one blind, though if done correctly it will not be on your final product. Also disadvantage of using much lye is it is watched in many places due to being used in meth production, so it might be suspicious to buy it, or even impossible to find, specially in some specific places of USA). Another possible disadvantage of STB teks is some people claim the final product is not as clean, its more yellow. Yellow dmt isnt necessarily a problem, though, some people even prefer it. Also, one can easily do a recrystalization (look below in the FAQ for explanation) which will effectively clean up the final product quickly and with very little solvent needed.

Then there are the A/B extractions (acid/base), such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Vovin%27s_tek Vovin's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Marsofold%27s_tek Marsofold's tek]. As the name suggests, the plant material is first simmered/boiled in acid 3x, filtered and later the base is added. The advantage being that when one is adding the base and mixing the solvent, the solids were already removed after the acid step, making it easier to mix the solvent, and easier to discard everything later. Also the acid step allows one to do a [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Defat_process Defat], though usually that is considered a wasteful way of cleaning up because it needs a lot of solvent for removing a bit of fats, which can be accomplished more efficiently with a recrystallization on the final product. The disadvantage of an A/B is that it takes longer because of the initial acid step, and if one isnt thorough enough in this acid step one will lose a lot of actives when discarding the solids before moving on to the Base step.

==== Links ====

* [[:Category:Extraction_Tek|Extraction Teks]]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1085 DMT Extraction Overview]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=318336#post318336 Art of liquid-liquid extraction - The basics]

=== What is the best tek? ===

There is no "best" tek. All teks featured in the Nexus Wiki should result in similar final product purity and yields, if correctly performed. Each tek has it's own characteristics regarding chemicals used, how long it takes, how thorough it's explained, if it includes optional clean up steps or not, etc. That is why, before deciding on one tek, it's important to read all (or at least some of them), also the "where to start" question above and the extraction overview linked there. That way you will have a better understanding of the processes instead of just blindly following a tek, which means you'll probably be more succesful with whichever tek you decide to use in the end.

=== Is my solvent/chemical OK to use? ===

Before using any solvent, one must make sure it is a clean evaporating solvent with no toxic/residual additives (or for other non-volatile chemicals used, make sure it has no toxic/unwanted additives). Always:

* Read the ingredients on the solvent's or chemical's label. Make sure it is pure with nothing appart from the desired chemical (for example: Naphtha/Aliphatic hydrocarbons)
* Google "solventbrand solvent/chemical msds", searching the brand of the solvent you have access to, to see if it has an msds, which usually contains more in depth information on what the product contains. For example "merck acetone msds". Or alternatively:
* Check the webpage linked in [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=165091#post165091 this thread] and see if your solvent and its contents is featured there
* VERY IMPORTANT: Always do an evaporating test before using a solvent for the first time: Add a quantity of the solvent to a glass/pyrex/plate (do NOT use a cd) and let it evaporate. If it leaves residues of any kind, dont use it. If it evaporates cleanly, chances are its ok to use.
* Check [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=14772 this] thread on whether your chem is ok to use or where to get the right chems.

=== Is this material or container ok to use with my chemicals? ===

The keyword to search is "Chemical compatibility" or "Chemical Resistance", plus the material and solvent/chemical you are looking for. Below are some good links to help you already find the information you want:

==== Link ====

* [http://www.nalgenelabware.com/techdata/chemical/index.asp Chemical Compatibility Search]
* [http://www.coleparmer.com/techinfo/chemcomp.asp Chemical compatibility database 2]
* [http://www.greenterpene.com/GreenTerpene_Product_Compatibility_s/48.htm Limonene compatibility chart]

=== Is plastic OK to use for my extraction? ===

In short, better not. If you are going to use anyways (NOT recommended), be sure to check what kind of plastic it is, and that its compatible with the chemicals used, as in the links of the previous question. But again, better not use plastic and only use glass, read links below for explanations why:

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=26324 Warning to those using plastic containers]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=340124#post340124 Using plastic for extractions]

=== What are the different bases one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired base.

* For [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH
* For [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH, Potassium Hydroxide/KOH
* For [[:Category:Dry_Technique|Dry tek]]: Calcium Hydroxide

=== What are the different acids one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired acid.

Plenty of different kinds of acid will work, but generally people preffer the first one on the following list:
* Vinegar (acetic acid)
* Lemon Juice (citric acid)
* Phosphoric Acid
* Hydrochloric Acid/HCl/Muriatic Acid.

NOTE: Sulfuric acid is not very well suited towards this extraction, as it reacts with lye to form sodium sulfate which is very poorly water-soluble. This may result in a generous white precipitate.

Reaction:

2NaOH + H2SO4 => Na2SO4 + 2H2O

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1556 Acids]

=== How can I convert sodium bicarbonate into sodium carbonate ===

==== Link ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Conversion_of_Sodium_Bicarbonate_into_Sodium_Carbonate Sodium bicarb -> carb conversion wiki]

=== How long each acid cook? ===

30 min - 2 hours cooks in a crockpot on low-medium (or just low fire on the stove). Some people avoid boiling and only simmer, but it appears DMT salts are very stable even at boil temperatures, so there doesnt seem to be diminishing yields when boiling. Also, it's important to stir once in a while during the acid cook.

=== How many acid cooks? ===

General consensus talks about 3 runs, 2 being minimum and 5 being over-careful.

=== Can I make one long cook instead of 3 shorter ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== Which ratio of MHRB:Lye:Water is the best? ===

For STBs, 1g MHRB:1g Lye:15ml Water is generally accepted as a good ratio. People have had success with significantly less water, but 15ml per g bark is a recommended amount because less than that might make the whole mixture too thick and it can make the separation of the solvent more difficult. Also, one actually needs much less lye but this amount of lye helps prevent emulsions forming as well helps break down the plant material so that dmt is more exposed to the water.

Alternatively, one can just add enough lye for the solution to turn completely black, and go ahead and extract. If emulsions form, add more lye. One does not need to worry about over-basifying, there's no such thing. Excess lye will stay behind in the water layer once you separate the solvent in any case.

=== Can I scale down/up the amounts stated in a tek if I want to extract different amounts of mimosa? ===

Yes, just scale the quantities proportionally according to your situation

=== Can I make one big pull instead of few smaller ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be significantly smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

==== Links ====

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== How big should the pulls be / How much to pre-evaporate before freezing? ===

100ml per pull per 200g bark (or a 2:1 ratio of bark:naphtha) is a sensible recomendation. More wont hurt but it will waste solvent as you will have to evaporate much afterwards. Less solvent per pull is even better, as long as you repeat more pulls to compensate. Sometimes people use more solvent than this recommended amount, like when for example if using this ratio in one's container the layers are too thin and it is hard to separate the solvent (though there are [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#How_to_pull_.2F_get_the_solvent_off_from_the_mix.3F tricks for better separation]). If the plan is to freeze precipitate and one uses more naphtha than the recommended amount, it is recommended to pre-evaporate the naphtha before freezing.

The amount that one should pre-evaporate depends of course on how much solvent used. The idea about pre-evap is that the solvent should be as saturated as possible with dmt so that most or all of it precipitates when put in the freezer. If its not saturated enough, then not much (or not at all) will precipitate. So if one used more than 3:1 ratio of bark:solvent, then pre-evaporate enough to reach the equivalent of it (so if one used, lets say, 100ml per 100g bark, pre evaporating till a third of original volume is recommended). [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=150095#post150095 Here's] an attempt to explain why not having it saturated enough may result in no or low yield

Later pulls will most likely be less saturated with dmt than first pulls, so for the later pulls (like lets say the 4th and 5th), it would be logical to pre-evaporate even more than the first pulls. In the example given above, instead of evaporating until a third of original volume, maybe one could evaporate until there is only a quarter or a fifth of original volume.

Some people gauge the amount of pre-evaporation by doing it until the solvent starts getting cloudy.

In any case, remember to re-use the naphtha after retrieving the crystals from precipitation, and/or evaporating it all the way down to see if there are any actives that remained in the naphtha after the freeze precipitation

If one is extracting a different plant or using a different solvent, then the ratio recommendation can change. Though in extractions that one salts out the solvent (like for example in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] and other limonene-based extractions), one can (and even should) use significantly more solvent, because all alkaloids will anyways be retrieved with the salting step.

=== The layers wont separate, what to do? ===

Possible fixes:
# Dont shake next time, if you did so! Instead, Stir/roll/turn upside down slowly, several times.
# Add more basic water/lye to the mix (either mix is not basic enough or too much plant matter for too little water)
# Make a warm water bath with the whole container (remember no fire sources near solvents, and leave top slightly open for preventing building up of pressure)
# Tapping on the side of the container/vibration (like sitting on top of washing mashine)
# Adding plenty of no-additives non-iodized salt (will make the water more polar and therefore chemically help in the separation)

====Links====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5866 Naphtha won' seperate?]

=== My Solvent is Brown/Dark, what to do ? ===

It happens for some people that after mixing the solvent with the mimosa solution, the naphtha picks up a lot of color and when the layers are separated, there is no emulsion but the naphtha is very dark, brown/burgundy. The exact reasons for this are still unknown, but it seems to happen mostly with STB extractions, powdered bark and heated pulls. It may be that there are microscopic suspended particles of the mimosa/black liquid which for some reason refuse to settle, but nobody yet knows for sure.

Considering this is not an emulsion issue (if so, it can be solved as stated [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#The_layers_wont_separate.2C_what_to_do.3F here]), this issue can be solved by:

1- Wait a few hours and see if the color settles and the solvent layer gets clearer.

2- Separate the pull as you would normally, and do a sodium carbonate wash (explanation also here in the FAQ). If the wash isnt sufficient to get the dark away, then :

3- Do a 'mini A/B' (mixing the separated dark solvent with vinegar 3x, separating the vinegar and discarding the solvent. Then basify the vinegar by adding lye, and pull with fresh solvent)

=== How to pull / get the solvent off from the mix? ===

* [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Each person finds his own way. One of the practical ways is to first, with HDPE or glass pipette/turkey baster/glass syringe, crudely separate the solvent and maybe a bit of the mimosa mix into a tall thin container. Then, with another pipette/glass syringe (or same one, washed), separate the solvent (it will be easier due to being thiner container, so solvent layer will be thicker than before) to the final container for evap or freeze precip. On this second separation, only pull out what you are sure you can do accurately, and the last bit throw back into the main container. Often people complain that the turkey baster wont hold the solvent well and will start releasing liquid as soon as you stop pulling. A [http://www.plastyshack.com/images/glass_syringe.jpg glass syringe] or pipette will work better, you can find them sold in lab/chem/medical supply stores or online in a variety of shops.

* [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Same as above, or also using a separatory funnel.

=== Should I wash my spice? ===

Washing spice has as a main function to eliminate any possible lye or other polar impurities (like droplets of the mimosa basic mix) from the final product, which might make the smoke harsher. Nevertheless, unless one was sloppy and some of the basic mimosa liquid came through to the solvent when separating, there should be nothing or very small amounts of it in your final product.

In any case if one feels better making sure the spice is cleaner (because we all know how important our mental state is in these experiences, even if its clean but if you're worried it might make the experience worse), or if one's spice is unusually harsh, then proceed to a sodium carbonate wash (DO NOT WASH WITH AMMONIA! Many people report losing yield with ammonia wash )

# Have your product still in the solvent, before evaporation/precipitation. If you have already in crystal form, redissolve in a naphtha/heptane/hexane.
# Add anywhere in between a pinch to 5 grams of sodium carbonate (yes, doesnt matter... All that is necessary is for it to be a basic solution) to 100ml clean water.
# Add your spice-containing solvent and the sodium carbonate solution together in a container. Mix/shake/whatever (emulsions will not form).
# Separate the solvent from the sodium carbonate solution using pippette/turkey baster/syphon/separatory funnel. One can repeat steps 2-4 if desired, but not strictly necessary
# Freeze precipitate or evaporate to retrieve your DMT

Remember that regardless of washing, its still very important to make sure there are no solvent traces in your spice, which can be done with thorough air drying, or redissolving your dmt in a non-toxic (or less toxic) solvent like ethanol, or pure IPA/Acetone, and evapping that again

=== No precipitation or low yield? ===

# Stir/mix and let separate the layers many times over a longer period of time before pulling the solvent out of the mix, dont just let it stand.
# Evap till theres only a quarter of the naphtha left and repeat freeze precip. If this doesnt help:
# Add more lye/base in the basic solution and try again, with small warm, thoroughly mixed pulls
# If its evapped and it seems like small amount of goo, it may actually be more than it seems because goo is heavier crystals. Recrystallize goo as FAQ instructions or infuse some herbs and weigh herbs before and after infusing to know exact yield.

Other possibilities:
* Bad mimosa/plant material
* Not the right solvent (if solvent has aromatics like xylene mixed in, it wont freeze precipitate, and will evap into a gooey product, mix of dmt and other plant impurities)

=== Melting/dissapearing crystals after freeze precipitation / Whats the best way to retrieve crystals after freezing? ===

This usually happens because of remaining solvent residues warming up and redissolving the crystals.

A trick to work around that is to freeze precipitate for a day or so (if you already have the melted crystals, then redissolve them in small amounts of warm naphtha and back into the freezer), and after crystals have precipitated, take it out of the freezer, pour the naphtha off (through coffee filter just in case any crystals are not stuck to the container), close the container and put it upside down in the freezer for some more hours. This way, any remaining naphtha trapped inside the crystals will drop off to the lid of the container on the bottom.

So after those few hours, take out out of the freezer, opening the lid still upside down so the naphtha drops off, and then you can scrape the drier crystals, put them on top of a coffee filter or on a plate/petri dish to finish air drying, and voilá.

The container used for precipitation is ideally something with a lid that closes well, like a mason jar, and that the edges and walls are straight so you can scrape it off more easily. Scrape as much as you can of the dmt, and whatever is left inside, leave it and reuse the container for the next precipitation, or if its the last precipitation of the extraction, you can use some alcohol (or even naphtha, if its clean evapping naphtha) to pick the last bits up and evaporate in a dish or easy to scrape flat-bottom wide container.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=2290 DMT crystals melting]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=72767#post72767 Question about freeze precipitation times]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3519 Yellow goo. Won't crystallize]

=== Only getting goo with Acacia extraction ===

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=39030 Getting crystals with Acacia confusa]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=440164 Enough GOO questions...]

=== How to safely heat a solvent ? ===

With the solvent safely stored far away, boil some water with any method you want. Once water is boiled, turn off heat source, get the solvent, put it in a glass and submerge the bottom of the glass on a pot containing your recently boiled water. In some seconds/minutes your solvent should be warm and you can use it for recrystallizing or pulling. NEVER warm up solvents directly with a heat source, specially no gas/open fire but even do not use electrical equipment unless it's a safe laboratory hotplate made for such purposes that will guarantee not to create sparks.

=== How does one recrystallize? ===

1- Boil some water. Turn off the fire.

2- Add your impure spice to a shotglass (weigh it before to know the amount).

3- Add around 20-30ml of naphtha/heptane/hexane per gram of impure spice to the shotglass.

4- submerge the bottom of the glass in the water. Leave it standing and/or stir it around a little bit. Most of the spice should redissolve in a few minutes, but probably a layer of goo will stay on the bottom.

5-Decant or pippette your naphtha away from the goo, put this naphtha in a clean container, close it, and into the freezer overnight for freeze precipitation. Alternatively, instead of freezing, if one wants to grow large crystals, put in a container with the lid semi-closed and/or in a place with very little air circulation, so that the naphtha evaporates very slowly. The slower the evap, the larger the crystal growth.

Its possible small amount of spice is still in the goo, so you can add another 5 or 10ml to the shotglass with the goo to pick up the last bits of dmt. This second pull will be more impure as it will pick some oils up, so freeze precipitate it separately. The goo can then be discarded

If one doesnt have a scale or for some reason cant weigh the spice, warm up a quantity of naphtha in a shotglass without the dmt and slowly add small quantities of the warm naphtha to the container containing dmt while stiring, until most dmt dissolved but a bottom layer of goo remains. Then follow step 5.
http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Can_I_make_one_long_cook_instead_of_3_shorter_ones.3F

==== Links ====

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=10545#post10545 Glass Shard Re-Crystallization Pictorial]

=== How many times can I reuse my solvent? ===

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=335995#post335995 On reusing non polar solvents]

=== What to do with the waste? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3072 What to do with the waste]

=== How Can I Extract DMT From Phalaris? ===

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phalaris_%28grass%29 Phalaris] is a genus of grasses with very variable alkaloid content, which means it's very hard or impossible to really say if a given Phalaris will have a good alkaloid content in terms of what alkaloids are present and in what amounts. Some Phalaris have very little to no DMT (or 5-MeO-DMT or Beta-Carbolines), and yet have plenty of potentially toxic alkaloids such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gramine gramine], while others have good amounts of wanted tryptamines and low gramine content. There are also tryptamines and beta-carbolines in Phalaris which have unknown activity and safety profile such as 5-MeO-NMT and others. This variability is especially the case with wild Phalaris or those grown from seeds so, for a more reliable alkaloid content, the clones of known strains such as AQ1, Big Medicine (for DMT) and Turkey Red (for 5-MeO-DMT) are probably a better bet.

'''Even though some people have reported some variable success, we do NOT recommend people to ingest a crude brew made with Phalaris grass due to the unknown amounts of possible toxic alkaloids. If using Phalaris, extract it first as mentioned below'''

If growing Phalaris yourself, [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/images/8/8a/Festiandsamorini.pdf this]publication goes over all the factors of growth that affect the alkaloid content. Please check it out. Here's some selected quotes:

* "The highest concentration (of alkaloids) is in the upper third part of the seedling leaf."
* "The total alkaloid concentration decreases with plant maturity"
* "Total alkaloids are more concentrated in the first regrowth, after the cutting or grazing, than in the first growth just after sowing, decreasing then in the following regrowths"
* "The availability of soil nitrogen increases the alkaloids concentration"
* "In soil, but not in nutrient solution cultivations, the concentration of indole alkaloids (...) increase is greater in plants supplied with ammonium nitrogen compared to the nitric source"
* "Samples of P. arundinacea growing with 20% of the full sunlight can contain an amount of DMT about twice compared to control; 5-MeO-DMT may increase up to a factor of 25"
* "DMT seems to show a maximum in the first hours of the morning, at least in shaded plants, whereas 5-MeODMT reaches a concentration peak in late morning"

Regarding the extraction itself, the plant should be extracted as soon as possible after harvesting since plant enzyme activity can break down alkaloids, even if drying the plant. If plant is not extracted immediately, it should be stored in an alcoholic solution in cold and dark. For extraction, a standard A/B could potentially work well, boiling plant material 3x in acidic water (pH anywhere from 1-6 should work), filtering, reducing to small manageable amount by low boil or simmering, and then basing with NaOH and pulling with solvent. Alternatively, a dry tek (check the nexus extraction teks wiki for more info) with calcium hydroxide or sodium carbonate could work but there haven't been enough tests to say for sure.

Regarding what solvents to use, hexane/heptane or equivalent solvents such as naphtha should work well as gramine is very poorly soluble in it, but if using naphtha make sure that it doesn't contain xylene or aromatics mixed in. Some people report specially low yields with naphtha and suggest cooking oil or room temperature limonene instead (check hippie salad oil tek link below) Cold/room temperature limonene also seems to work to separate tryptamines from gramine but more work needs to be done to make sure this separation is good enough. Check the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] for the most up-to-date info, since solubility tests on gramine are being done right now. If using naphtha or similar hydrocarbons, doing a recrystallization is a good idea to help removing other unwanted alkaloids that may have come across. Using less selective solvents like DCM, xylene, toluene or others (or acetone or alcohols in a dry tek) would pull the potentially toxic unwanted alkaloids, so its not recommended to use those, unless you do a clean up at the end

If you extract from Phalaris, we would be very thankful if you document the process (notes and/or pictures) and post so that we all can learn about the results, whether they are good or not. Please try smoking/ingesting only a very small amount at first if you do. Ideally, purchase colorimetric reagents such as marquis or ehrlich to help identifying the final product if it contains the wanted alkaloids (more info in the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] )

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=44863 Hippie salad oil tek v 2]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=16810&p=7 Phalaris way of the future thread]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=28869 PDF on processing phalaris]

=== Can I use another solvent like xylene after having pulled with naphtha? ===

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359465#post359465 Can SWIM Use Dif Solvents To Extract Different Ranges of Spice?]

== DMT Usage/Methods of administration ==

=== Is my spice ok to smoke? ===

Often people ask in the forum if their spice is ok to smoke, followed by a picture or description of the dmt's appearance. Nevertheless, there are several other variables which simple color does not tell, and which are essential to decide whether one shoud or not smoke it. Please check link below for detailed information:

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=11715 IMPORTANT: spice color purity fallacy AKA is your dmt ok to smoke ? ]

=== How to brew ayahuasca or analogues (mimosa hostilis / syrian rue)? ===

The standard way of brewing is to first of all have the material powdered/grinded or pounded as fine as possible. Then
* 1- boil on low fire (or simmer) the plant material for around three hours (some people do even longer but not necessary unless material is too coarsely shredded.. Also energetic/ecological costs become higher). Use mineral or distilled water ideally, some tap water can have too high pH and diminish yields/potency. Use enough water to cover the plant material.
* 2- filter/strain the brew to separate the liquids and solids, store the liquid separately,
* 3- add fresh water to the solids and boil everything again. Do this for a total of 3 or 4 times,
* 4- put the liquid from the 3 or 4x boils together, keep filtered/decanted solids separately for stp 6,
* 5- reduce the liquid on low fire/simmer to a manageable ammount, like for example 70ml per dose (dosages/amounts of each plant in [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this thread]

OPTIONAL:
* 6- If you want to be very thorough and get all the alkaloids out, you can now soak the plant material in vinegar for a day, then freeze and thaw it, then boil it for another hour or two. This should have a significant amount of alkaloids, which can either be extracted by basing and filtering like the Easy Caapi Extraction Tek, and the alkaloids added to the main brew (or consumed separately in some other occasion), or you could also consume this orally directly but due to the vinegar it will taste very bad, so it's better to at least base it with sodium carbonate slowly until it stops bubbling and/or reaches a pH of around 6, and then it will taste better.

The MAOI containing plant (banisteriopsis caapi vine or syrian rue) can be boiled together with the DMT containing plant (psychotria viridis or mimosa hostilis, or just add some extracted dmt in appropriate dosage to the caapi/rue brew), but specially if its the first time with a particular plant batch, its recommended to brew separately the two, and first find out the potency of the plant by drinking first a small amount.

An acid can be added to the brew (such as a dash of lemon or vinegar), but this is not strictly necessary (and neither the traditional indigenous way), specially if your plant is finely powdered, because alkaloids in the plant are naturally in water-soluble form. Though acid can increase the potency of the brew (specially for non-powdered plant material), it will also make it taste worse. To get the best out of all the worlds, its recommended to do step 6, so you have a better tasting brew without acid, but you still get any remaining alkaloids at the end in the final acid soak.

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8972 all about aya <3 ]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=51 Ayahuasca subforum]
* [[Ayahuasca using Syrian Rue & Acacia confusa]]

=== Whats the best smoking method? ===

The [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] gives some tips not only on vaporizing methods but other tips, check it out.

Different people preffer different methods. FORGET THE LIGHTBULB METHOD as it only works for a small percentage of people, most report problems.

-
==== '''Vaporgenie''' ====

A big number of people in the Nexus claim the vaporgenie to be the best vaporizing method by far! The vaporgenie is claimed to be significantly more effective as well as having a much smoother vapor than other smoking methods so if one is having trouble with harsh smoke or low effects, try the vaporgenie out. The Glass VaporGenie is recommended but otherwise the classic one will work perfectly fine.

The first thing if you're vaporizing pure DMT, is to get a [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=42867 ceramic disc] or a volcano liquid pad and cut it up to fit the vaporgenie, otherwise the DMT will melt through the screens, even if it's multiple screens. Check the vaporgenie thread linked below for more details

Begin with the flame a few cms above the top and adjust as you go. With empty lungs, start inhaling slowly and steady. The idea is to inhale a dense vapour, but not too dense so that you start coughing. Its better to begin the inhaling with a not so dense smoke, and then make it denser towards the end. Keep the vapor in the lungs for as long as possible, at least 10 seconds. If you coughed or exhaled before this or couldnt inhale with all the lungs, try keeping the flame further away or adjusting the speed of inhaling so that its a bit less dense.

Usually it takes anywhere between 1-3 hits, or anywhere between 25-50mg for a full breakthrough, if you got your technique right. A torch lighter is recommended, but a normal lighter will also work fine.

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=39961#post39961 VG VaporGenie: How to use, where to get, advantages, etc]

- If you cant or dont want to afford a vaporgenie, a good possibility is to make your own vaporization tool like:

===='''amorfati's Inspirator MKII'''====

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8985 Link to how to build/use the Inspirator mKII]

For a vaporization to be really effective, the DMT should be heated by convection (hot air), not conduction (hot glass/pipe/material), so vaporgenie and inspirator are recommended. If you dont want to use these methods, there are other possibilities which are less effective and risk burning DMT instead of just vaporizing, but it does work decently enough for many people:

===='''- Bong/leaf bed/enhanced leaf'''====

One method also considered successful by some is in a water bong (or plain bong), with a couple of metal screens, a thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on the bottom, then the dmt in the middle, and then another thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on top.
It is essential to go very easy on the fire, because too much heat will degrade DMT. Keep the lighter as far away as possible so that it still vaporizes but doesnt over-heat your DMT
50mg seems to be a good dose if one wants to really go inside the dmt dimension. Inhale slowly and deeply, holding in the lungs as much as possible (at least a few seconds), exhaling, and then taking a second, third one if possible, and even fourth one if one still can. Even if after the first there are already some effects, if one really wants to breakthrough, gotta keep going as much as one can.

Specifically for enhanced leaf check link below

====''' The Machine'''====

Check links below

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=39961#post39961 VG VaporGenie: How to use, where to get, advantages, etc]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6014 Helps and tips for smoking spice]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=280594 My version of the "Machine" - How to make it in <15 minutes]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6131 Ban the Bulb - Modify the Machine]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to enhanced leaf changa]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5633 Thoughts on using a VaporGenie]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6317 Troubles with The Machine]

=== I dont get any effects/light buzz only, what to do? ===

99% of the times, when people do not get effects, they are having a bad vaporization method, most likely burning the sspice. Try one of the methods above, and considering it is dmt and one smokes it right, it should work. Other possibility is that one has a very impure product with too much plant oils and so on. One can perform one or more recrystalizations to get a purer product that is easier to weight accurately and vaporize, and then try methods above.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=86732#post86732 Trouble Breaking Through???]

=== Fear going into a trip ===

If you're afraid of dark things coming from inside of you and are not willing to face them, you should not consume any psychedelics at all...

If you're afraid but willing to face them, then that's another thing.

And whether it's changa, pharma, or aya or vaporized DMT, it doesn't matter much, those dark things can come out with one or the other.

A low dosage may help, yes, and so can a proper set and setting, but this is no guarantee you won't be facing what you fear the most. It can, and most likely will happen at some point, whether now or after a certain number of experiences. Whenever we take psychedelics, it's as if we sign a contract saying we accept all those possibilities. So think well before signing, and if you do sign, make sure to get all the preparations right before the time come, take it in a proper context and to humbly accept whatever may come, take responsibility for it, and learn from it.

==== Link ====

*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=470491#post470491 Suddenly concerned]

=== Denied breakthrough / Dark DMT trips / Not good experiences anymore ? ===

It happens with several people that they feel they aren't getting good experiences anymore, that the trips are consistently of dark motifs, negative feelings, or that the breakthrough is denied, regardless of dosage. There isn't a ready answer for why this happens, but it seems a few factors may be related to it. In many cases, this happens when people are having a regular or excessive DMT use, or when they haven't been dedicating enough to their daily lives, to [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration integration] of the experiences. Also, it may have in some cases to do with the intentions one sets before vaporizing the DMT, and with how one's mind state and the context in general is.

So a few tips on how to deal with this issue:

1- Take a break! The DMT hyperspace will always be there, there is no rush to go right now! Stop your DMT usage (and maybe drug usage altogether), dedicate to daily life, live a balanced healthy life, eat well, exercise, study, work. Do not obsess about DMT, try to only come back once you feel you have really made enough effort in improving your daily life. At least a few months break is recommended.

2- If and once you do decide to try it again, make sure it is a good place and time for it. Take care with using in the best set and setting possible (look further down the FAQ for recommended setting).

3- Do not smoke it impulsively. Meditate or spend a few minutes in silence, concentrating, breathing deeply and slowly.

4- Set your intentions straight. Question yourself why you are doing this. Try to have the best intentions and reasons as possible.

5- Use a good smoking method such as the vaporgenie or others as recommended above.

6- If it still doesnt work out for you, take an even longer break (many months/years), and/or stop it altogether. Realize that maybe DMT is just not for you. Its not a problem to admit one's relationship with a substance is not working, in fact, it shows you're being humble and conscious.

==== Link ====

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration Health and Safety section: Integration]
* [http://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=169680#post169680 what happened to the bright side?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=13515 Vaporized DMT not having an effect in those who it has worked for previously]

=== What are the dosages for ... ? ===

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 Dosages and different forms of ingestion]

=== What is the best setting/context to consume spice? ===

Check [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] for some tips on setting, preparation and also integration

* A comfortable quiet place is generally recommended. If there are friends around they should be requested to remain quiet while someone is embarking on this experience and only start speaking once the explorer talks himself and allows others. Possibility of telefone ringing or street noises or other interruptions is definitely NOT recommended.
* The presence of music or not depends a lot on personal taste. Some prefer full silence to 'concentrate' more deeply and mention that any stimulus keeps them too grounded in usual reality, while others can have very deep interconnected experiences with certain music of their own preference (often being some kind of chill out/ambient/ethno ).
* Many people preffer full darkness or indirect lighting, but sunset or sunrise in a nice nature place (if safe) can also be marvelous.
* Obviously '''DO NOT''' have sharp objects around, smoke next to cliffs, driving etc...
* It is very rare, but it may happen that one feels nauseated and/or vomits, so specially first times or those doing alone, its also recommended to have a bucket nearby, and to sit comfortably, resting the back against something soft in a way that you wont slip or fall, such as an armchair, bed with backrest/pillows or comfortable sofa.
* While we are not aware of any deaths, it would be irresponsible to discount the possibility that blocking your airway while deep in hyperspace could prove fatal, so be in a position/place where you are safe even if not conscious of the surroundings. During traditional ayahuasca ceremonies participants sit on the floor or in a comfortable chair. We recommend sitting upright (slightly reclined for stability) comfortably because the launch is far more immediate and surprising with vaporised DMT. Think of it as your pilot seat- you wouldn't fly a plane any other way!
* If you do not have a sitter to take the pipe from you, be sure that you have a safe and easy place very near to put it down when you feel hyperspace approaching. You will not be inclined to move your hand very far, so we would recommend a fireproof shelf of sorts less than a foot away. Just smoking cigarettes in bed kills many people every year, and obviously the same dangers are relevent with DMT. We have heard one report of a member who returned from an unenjoyable trip to find that she had dropped the pipe onto her leg, resulting in a nasty burn.
* Prior meditation or at least focusing on intention and inner calm can be benefiting.
* Remember to let go, dont struggle. Its normal that the hearbeat accelerates in the come up. Some people fear they are dying or that they wont return, but dont worry FOR SURE you come back, as it has happened with everybody else. Some people feel that they lose their breath, but its just a feeling.. As long as the airway is not physically blocked, then dont worry our body has a built-in mechanism that prevents one from stopping breathing.
* Dont be scared, entities cant hurt you in real life if you dont believe it. Try to not make 'good/bad' judgements during the experience, dont resist!! Just go with the flow of the ride. Some images may appear positive, negative, incredible, impossible to describe, etc, but you are safe regardless of what comes.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5900 Favourite setting for smoking DMT]

=== What about other ingestion methods (intranasal, intrarectal, Atomizer/E-cig etc) ? ===

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods Ingestion Methods]

=== Can DMT be IVed? ===

It can, but we do not recommend it mainly for two reasons:

1- The only official research done with DMT by Rick Strassmann used FDA-approved ultra pure DMT fumarate. The quality of home extraction products is questionable, one may have solvent traces and other impurities that could be uncomfortable, painful or downright dangerous to inject.

2- The onset of the effects are so quick that one might not be able to take out the needle in time and accidentally ripping their vein out while in hyperspace, or putting it down too near and rolling around/puncturing oneself

IF one is gonna do it inspite of contrary recommendations, then please: Take care in making many purifying steps (several recrystallizations/washes) and making sure it has no solvent or other chemical traces in the final product (redissolving the recrystallized product in USP grade acetone or ethanol and re-evaporating, scrapping and letting it dry completely before converting to fumarates in a sterile solution, etc.). Check the first link below for tips on how to prepare for injection and safety proceedures

Also, for the first try, take at most 0.2mg/kg, preferably less. And VERY importantly, [[do NOT do it by yourself]], have a sitter that is experienced with needles inject for you and be there to make sure you are physically safe.

==== Links ====

* [http://www.hipforums.com/newforums/showpost.php?p=6347899&postcount=5 Entheogen Review article on safe injection proceedure]
* [http://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4128 iv dmt]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1521 IV DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3016 IV DMT?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=144148 Injecting DMT]
* [http://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=7450 FASA safe for injection?]

=== How can I estimate the amount of mimosa? ===

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=236540#post236540 Estimating mimosa amount]

== DMT/Plant storage ==

=== Does DMT go bad? ===

The main degradation product of dmt seems to be dmt n-oxide, which is also psychoactive. Some people enjoy and find qualitative difference in n-oxide compared to dmt. On the other hand, other people report negative experiences with old spice, but it is unknown how much is self-suggestion and how much is really true. The rate at which dmt converts to n-oxide logically depends on factors such as air exposure and temperature, but so far there havent been any quantitative tests to tell how fast it goes in a given condition.

In any case, n-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

Many people convert the freebase to dmt fumarate for storage, as its claimed to be a more stable salt.

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1553 DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=302112#post302112 DMT oxidation rate]

=== Does mimosa go bad? ===

Generally mimosa should not go bad even after months/years. If it looks fine and doesnt have some mutant fungus growing on it, its perfect :) There are reports of people using mimosa that was for many months or even years in a drawer without any significant problem (though as with anything, its always more prudent to store in dark, dry, cold place).

The main possible degradation is of dmt into dmt n-oxide. Dmt n-oxide is also psychoactive, but it is not soluble in naphtha, which may cause some people to get small yields when extracting from older bark. N-oxide is soluble in limonene/xylene/toluene/etc, so one could extract it with those solvents without loss of yield. Alternatively, N-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

For oral usage of mimosa, formation of n-oxide wouldnt really affect much as it will be water soluble so one will still get the effects when consuming the brew.

==== Links ====
* [[DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3570 How long should MHRB keep]

=== Whats the best way to store DMT? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

In any case, one can also convert to dmt fumarate which is a very stable salt form of dmt

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4482 Long-term storage]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4867 How to store DMT for longest]

=== Whats the best way to store Mimosa? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

Logically, bark in pieces will keep better than when powdered

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1488 Storing mimosa hostilis]

== DMT Allies ==

=== What is jungle spice ? ===

http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359543#post359543
Jungle Spice is the product resulting from an extraction of mimosa hostilis using a solvent more polar than naphtha (such as xylene, toluene, limonene, ether, DCM, etc). Sometimes people also call it JimJam, which was first called only for limonene extracted products, but analysis shown it to be equivalent to what is extracted with xylene. Chemical analysis has shown that both naphtha as well as xylene/limonene extract mostly DMT (around 90%), plus around or under 1% 2-methy-1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-beta-carboline (2MTHBC) and NMT. The psychoactivity of 2MTHBC is unknown at this point, and NMT does appear to be psychoactive, though a quarter of the potency of DMT. Appart from these mentioned alkaloids, Xylene, when evaporated, and both limonene or xylene, when salted with an acidic solution like vinegar or FASW, also yield around 0.2% MTHBC (tetrahydroharman), and what could be 1,2-dimethyl-tetrahydrobetacarboline or a yuremamine degradation product (as suggested by dozuki in the jungle spice analysis thread linked below). Very little to nothing is known about these two 'extra' beta-carbolines in junglespice/jimjam, if they are psychoactive or can potentiate DMT.

Some people claim jungle spice to be stronger or produce a different experience than pure DMT. This may be self-suggestion (people thinking it is stronger/different therefore feeling it), it may be that the inactive oils/impurities present in jungle spice somehow protect DMT from heat, making a more effective vaporization, and therefore feel stronger. It may also be that the beta carbolines together, have a synergistic effect with DMT making a stronger experience, or it may be that these beta carbolines would only really be noticeable if they were in a larger quantity as is the case with some Acacias. It may be a mixture of any or all of the above possibilities.

Only further testing (such as blind self-experiments and more analysis) will help us isolating the variables and answer the questions on junglespice's activity

For more information on jungle spice, check the links below

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1115 Jungle Spice]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=10553 Jungle Spice chemical analysis]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23544 Entheogenic effects of NMT]

=== What is changa / How to make changa ? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Changa Changa WIKI]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to DMT enhanced leaf (changa)] thread
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=27537 How does your changa looks like ?] thread

=== What type of caapi/ayahuasca vine should I use, what are the differences ? ===

Different ethnobotanical suppliers seem to stock different varieties of caapi. Often they use color names (for example black caapi, white caapi, etc), or other names used by local / mestizos / indigenous people (caupuri, ourinhos, etc). The problem is that there is no consensus regarding the classification of different caapi vines, so some indigenous people may recognize 2 types, in another tribe they may recognize 10 types, and so on. These types may overlap or they may even be in contradiction with each other. Also botanists would not necessarily agree with those types, as sometimes classification from indigenous people is not based on how a plant looks, but also on its effects, purpose, etc. In fact, some of what is sold as "black/red/whatever caapi" may even be of a different genus/species altogether (more discussion on this on links below)

There is an ongoing analysis project going on with different caapi/ayahuasca vines (link below), and it seems some caapis have very similar alkaloid/chemical component even if they have different names, while others may have quite different content even if they are named the same. The difference can be in ratio of alkaloids or total alkaloid yield, for example some black caapi from one vendor yielded over 2% alkaloids, a black caapi from another vendor yielded 0.5%.

Regarding the type/function/effects of different caapis, at this point any conclusions and generalizations are not possible. As an example, at times it's said that black caapi is used for more witchcraft kind of rituals by some shamans, but this doesnt mean that: a- that particular group is "correct", b-that other groups would agree with what they call "black caapi", c- That the black caapi you find is equivalent to that, d- that you cant use it for another purpose and have a great experience regardless.

It may be that there is a pattern between alkaloid content of different caapi vines (some may have more harmaline, or more THH, etc), but at this point we cannot yet say. Also even if a correctly identified subtype of caapi would have a specific alkaloid content, we would still have to make the assumption that the vendors are actually identifying correctly.

If you want to decide what type of caapi to get, one thing you could do is check the suppliers section and see if this specific caapi from the specific vendor has been reviewed, and dont believe in generalizations (all caapi "X" is strong and gives dark trips, all caapi "Y" is light and for beginners). Start with low dosage (10-20g) for the first time to gauge the strenght of this particular batch you have acquired, and then raise the dosage accordingly if necessary.

Another thing to do is to buy at least 2 different types and then take them in separate occasions, and then sharing the results with the community, and that way we all grow together.

Do check the links below as they have very relevant discussions regarding the different caapi types:

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29967 Caapi analysis thread]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32018 Poorly understood family of ayahuasca vines]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=30106 tetrapterys methystica (painted caapi) and other kinds of caapi]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=325495#post325495 Which caapi should I get ?]

== Plant sources ==

=== What are the best DMT-containing plants in my area ? ===

One good way to check what DMT plants you have around you is to look at the Nexus Wiki lists for [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT plants containing DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT] ) . Then use the search function of [http://www.discoverlife.org discoverlife page] or [http://bonap.org/genera-list.html bonap] to search the plants names and see in the species map if any of the good candidates grow near you, or alternatively, you can first identify the plants growing around you and search for their scientific name on the mentioned wiki lists.

If you don't find any plants growing around you, you can consider cultivating some ideal plants yourself, for example checking out the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=38229 Top Acacias To Grow Worldwide Thread] for the mid-long term, or getting known cuttings of phalaris with good alkaloid content such as AQ1 and big medicine (for more info check all the links in the first post of the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]) which can be harvested pretty quick

=== Does this plant contain DMT ? ===

Often people ask in the forum if the plant they have growing around them contains DMT. Then they might post pictures of the plants and expect an identification. Before that is done, the person asking needs to do some basic things:

1- Look up the information to know the plants that contain interesting alkaloids. The best resources are the Nexus wiki of plants containing [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT].

If it's an Acacia, read the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Acacia information thread] and if it's a Phalaris read the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]. Those threads contain information on seed suppliers, geographic location, season of harvest, conditions of growth and variation in alkaloid content, etc, which the person should become familiar with.

2-The person should try to identify the local plants based on the information in the above links. Posting picture of random plants without at least having some clue on what they could be, will only make everybody's life much harder. Look up images of suspected plants and compare, see in what they may differ.

3- Take detailed pictures of the different plant parts (overall plant, leaf close up front and back, seedpods and flower close ups if they are there). Often to differentiate between species the details are important, so blurry bad quality pictures or single pictures with no close ups or details of different plant parts are not enough.

4- Post your ID request in the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=358663#post358663 Acacia ID thread] if it's a suspected Acacia, or make a new thread if it's a differen't plant. Be sure to say what plant you think it is, and include information such as general geographic area, the detailed pics above, and any possible differences you may have seen with the plant you think it is.

5- If your plant gets identified and you plan on harvesting, please only harvest sustainably! Check [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=344487#post344487 this] post for more information

=== Links ===

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33512 Guide to Researching Psychoactive Plants: Resource List]'''

'''[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Containing_Plants WIKI -> DMT Containing Plants]'''

'''[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Botanicals WIKI -> Botanicals]'''

'''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=369566#post369566 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa ID stuff.zip]'''

'''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33648 Acacia Identification Thread]'''

'''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Trying to improve Acacia information]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia ID stuff.zip]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Phalaris.zip Phalaris.zip]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=34525 Phalaris/other grass types ID thread]'''

'''[http://www.erowid.org/plants/phalaris/phalaris_images.shtml Erowid.org -> Phalaris Grass Images]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=173732#post173732 help identifying Phalaris arundinacea]'''

'''[http://extension.entm.purdue.edu/caps/pestInfo/reedCanaryGrass.htm extension.entm.purdue.edu -> Reed Canary Grass]'''

.

== Reference ==
<references/>

Category:DMT Containing Plants

2014-05-16T12:30:12Z

Cosmic Spore: /* WIKI -> Botanicals (link). */

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is to remain in accordance with the Botanical Transclusion Project, in which only a partial transclusion of each plant's individual page is to be included her in the form of an info box. The proper procedure to create a page for each plant is to transfer its info box from this page to its own page in the following manner:
{{ShowInfo/In Article|[[Image:Information.png]]|Format for Initial Page Creation
|
<nowiki>
{{Botanical Transclusion Header}}
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
<onlyinclude>
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
{{botanics_info|Plant Image|Plant Name|
* Alkaloid Content w/ Reference
|Optional Nickname
}}
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
</onlyinclude>
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
{{Wikipedia}}
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
== Reference ==
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
{{Page Footer}}
</nowiki>
}}
The Wikipedia transclusion may be replaced if personal authorship is desirable.
}}

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a work in progress -- its content throughout is not yet complete.}}

==[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Botanicals#Plants WIKI -> Botanicals] (link).==

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Containing_Plants WIKI -> DMT Containing Plants]

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Botanicals WIKI -> Botanicals]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=357670#post357670 Guide to Researching Psychoactive Plants: Resource List]

* [http://sharetheseeds.me/forum/index.php?topic=230.msg305#msg305 STS: Practical Resources for Plant ID and description]

* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mimosa_hostilis Mimosa Hostilis on Wikipedia]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa ID stuff]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=369566#post369566 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace]

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33648 Acacia Identification Thread]

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Trying to improve Acacia information]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia ID stuff.zip]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Phalaris.zip Phalaris.zip]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=34525 Phalaris/other grass types ID thread]

* [http://www.erowid.org/plants/phalaris/phalaris_images.shtml Erowid.org -> Phalaris Grass Images]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=173732#post173732 help identifying Phalaris arundinacea]

* [http://extension.entm.purdue.edu/caps/pestInfo/reedCanaryGrass.htm extension.entm.purdue.edu -> Reed Canary Grass]

==DMT Containing plants==
The following is a list of plants known to contain tryptamines.

=== Acacia ===
{{:Acacia_acuminata}}

{{:Acacia_alpina}}

{{:Acacia angustifolia}}

{{:Acacia angustissima}}

{{:Acacia auriculiformis}}

{{:Acacia baileyana}}

{{:Acacia berlandieri}}

{{:Acacia catechu}}

{{:Acacia caven}}

{{:Acacia colei}}

{{:Acacia complanata}}

{{:Acacia constricta}}

{{:Acacia confusa}}

{{:Acacia cornigera}}

{{:Acacia cultriformis}}

{{:Acacia farnesiana}}

{{:Acacia filiciana}}

{{:Acacia_floribunda}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia georginae|
* Psychoactive,[8] plus deadly toxins
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia greggii|
* N-methyl-β-phenethylamine,[12] phenethylamine[36]
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia harpophylla|
* Phenethylamine, hordenine at a ratio of 2:3 in dried leaves, 0.6% total[6]
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia holoserica|
* Hordenine, 1.2% in bark[6]
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia horrida|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia implexa|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia karroo|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia kempeana|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia kettlewelliae|
* 1.5[6]–1.88%[38] alkaloids, 92% consisting of phenylethylamine.[6] 0.9% N-methyl-2-phenylethylamine found a different time
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia laeta|
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia lingulata|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia longifolia|
* 0.2% tryptamine in bark, leaves, some in flowers, phenylethylamine in flowers (Hegnauer 1994)
* DMT in plant (Lyceaum)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia macradenia|
* Tryptamine
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia maidenii|
* Bark of A. maidenii contains 0.6% of N-methyltryptamine and DMT in the proportions approx. 2:3 (Fitzgerald & Sioumis 1965)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia mangium|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia melanoxylon|
* DMT in the bark and leaf, less than 0.02% total alkaloids (Hegnauer 1994)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia mellifera|
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia nilotica|
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia obtusifolia|
* 0.4 to 0.5 % DMT/NMT in the dried bark (Csiro 1990)
*0.15-0.6% DMT,NMT(2:1)plus trace betacarboline in bark, 0.06-0.2% leaves (Southern Cross University comissioned test 2001)
*5-MeoDMT & bufotenine in some loctations (E., Entheogen Review 1995-6; Trout's Notes 2005-10) Is not fast growing in the wild and is under threat of serious overharvesting. Is NOT considered a weed as previously stated here, and will become rarer if wild seed populations exploited further.(Nen, original bioassay subject)
{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia oerfota|
* Less than 0.1% DMT in leaf (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia penninervis|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia phlebophylla|
* 0.3% DMT in leaf, NMT (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia platensis|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia podalyriaefolia|
* Tryptamine in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
* 0.5% to 2% DMT in fresh bark, phenethylamine trace amounts (Hegnauer 1994)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia polyacantha|
* DMT in leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia pycantha|
* Psychoactive,[8] but less than 0.02% total alkaloids
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia retinodes|
* DMT and MMT (www.factorey.ch/Eins.htm)
* Less than 0.02% total alkaloids found (Hegnauer 1994)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia roemeriana|
* β-methyl-phenethylamine
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia rigidula|
* DMT, NMT, tryptamine, amphetamines, mescaline, nicotine and others (Phytochem. 199
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia salicina|
* Psychoactive[8][9] Ash used in Pituri.
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia sassa|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia schaffneri|
* β-methyl-phenethylamine, Phenethylamine[36] Amphetamines and mescaline also found
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia schottii|
* β-methyl-phenethylamine
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia senegal|
* DMT, in the leaf
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia simplex|
*DMT and NMT, in the leaf, stem and trunk bark, 0.81% DMT in bark, MMT
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia taxensis|
* β-methyl-phenethylamine
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia tenuifolia|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|File:290px-Eat267.jpg|Acacia tortilis|
* DMT, NMT, and other tryptamines
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia sieberiana|
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia verek|
* Psychoactive (Rätsch 2004)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia vestita|
* Tryptamine, in the leaf and stem (Trout's Notes)
* Less than 0.02% total alkaloids (Hegnauer 1994)
}}

=== Anadenanthera ===
{{:Anadenanthera colubrina}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Anadenanthera macrocarpa|
* Seed pods contain dimethyltryptamine and the seeds bufotenin, bufotenin oxide, and oxide of dimethyltryptamine (GRANIER-DOYEUX 1965)
}}

{{:Anadenanthera_peregrina}}

=== Common Reed ===
{{botanics_info|image:arundo_donax.jpg|Arundo donax|Entire Plant contains 5-MeO-DMT (Shulgin, TIHKAL)Flowers contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, and 5-MeO-NMT (Shulgin, TIHKAL)Roots contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, 5-MeO-NMT, Bufotenine, bufotenidine, dehydrobufotenidine (Shulgin, TIHKAL)}}

{{botanics_info|image:desmanthus.jpg|Desmanthus illinoensis|Root contains DMT - 0.200% (Ott)Root Bark contains DMT - 0.340% (Ott)}}

{{:Phalaris_arundinacea}}

{{botanics_info|image:phalaris_aquatica.jpg|Phalaris tuberosa|Leaves and seedlings contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, and related compounds (Smith 1977)DMT - 0.100% (erowid)5-MeO-DMT - 0.022% (erowid)5-OH-DMT - 0.005% (erowid)}}

{{:Phragmites_australis}}

=== Delosperma ===
{{botanics_info|Image:Delosperma acuminatum2.jpg|Delosperma acuminatum|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:delosperma_acuminatum.jpg|Delosperma cooperi|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:iceplantbrighteyes-may.jpg|Delosperma ecklonis|DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:Delosperma_esterhuyseniae.jpg|Delosperma esterhuyseniae|DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma hallii|5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma harazianum|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma hirtum|DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:DelospermaLydenbergense.jpg|Delosperma lydenbergense|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma nubigenum|5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma pageanum|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma pergamentaceum|Traces of DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:180px-Delosperma_tradescantioides_leafs_IMGP0042.jpg|Delosperma tradescantioides|DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

=== Desmodium ===
{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium caudatum|
* Roots: 0.087% DMT, Bufotenine-N-oxide 0.03% (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium gangeticum|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT, whole plant, roots, stems, leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium gyrans|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT, leaves, roots (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium pulchellum|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT, whole plant, roots, stems, leaves, flowers (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium racemosum|
* 5-MEO-DMT (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium triflorum|
* DMT-N-oxide, roots (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Lespedeza bicolor|var. japonica
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in leaves and root bark (Ott)
}}

=== Petalostylis ===
{{botanics_info|image:petalostylis_cassioides.jpg|Petalostylis cassioides|0.4-0.5% tryptamine, DMT, etc. in leaves and stems (Johns et al 1966)}}

=== Mimosa ===
{{:Mimosa hostilis}}

{{:Mimosa ophthalmocentra}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Mimosa scabrella|
* DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|File:250px-Mimosa_verrucosa01.jpg|Mimosa verrucosa|
* DMT (Schultes 1969)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Mucuna pruriens|
* Leaves, seeds, stems and roots contain L-Dopa, Serotonin, 5-HTP, and Nicotine, as well as N,N-DMT, Bufotenine, and 5-MeO-DMT (Erowid)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Petalostylis labicheoides|var. casseoides
* DMT in leaves and stems (Ott)
}}

{{:Diplopterys_cabrerana}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Horsfieldia superba|
* 5-MeO-DMT and beta-carbolines (Jossang et al. 1991)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Iryanthera ulei|
* 5-MEO-DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Osteophloem platyspermum|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

=== Virola===
{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola calophylla|
* Leaves 0.149% DMT (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola carinata|
* DMT in leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola divergens|
* DMT in leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola elongata|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark and leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola melinonii|
* DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola multinervia|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark and leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola pavonis|
* DMT in leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola peruviana|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola rufuta|
* Alkaloids in bark and root, 95% of which is 5-MeO-DMT (Shulgin, TIHKAL)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola sebifera|
* DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola theiodora|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark, roots, leaves and flowers (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola venosa|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in roots and leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Psychotria carthaginensis|
* 0.2% average DMT in dried leaves (Ott)
}}

{{:Psychotria_viridis}}

==Sources==

{{Page_Footer|Botanicals|DMT}}

Phalaris spp.

2014-05-15T16:44:37Z

Cosmic Spore: /* General phalaris info */

== Species ==

* [[Phalaris aquatica]]
* [[Phalaris arundinacea]]
* [[Phalaris brachystachys]]

== General phalaris info ==

Phalaris is a genus of grasses that are known in the ethnobotanical world for being a potential alternative source for psychoactive tryptamines.

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Phalaris.zip Phalaris files.zip]'''

== Alkaloid Content ==

The alkaloid content in the Phalaris genus varies greatly depending on species and strain, as well as conditions of growing. Not all Phalaris will be good for extracting psychoactive tryptamines, some may have very little alkaloids, some may have more of toxic alkaloids such as gramine, or of stimulant-like alkaloids such as hordenine, or they may have wanted tryptamines such as DMT and 5-MeO-DMT. Do not bioassay an extract from Phalaris without making sure you are getting the alkaloids you want. For more info check file linked below.

The alkaloids found so far in Phalaris according to festi and samorini 1994:

*N-methyltryptamine (MMT)
*5-methoxy-N-methyltryptamine (5-MeO-MMT)
*N,N-dimethyltryptamine (DMT)
*5-methoxy-N,N-dimethyltryptamine (5-MeO-DMT)
*5-hydroxy-N,N-dimethyltryptamine (Bufotenine, 5-HO-DMT)
*5-methyl-tryptamine
*5-methoxy-tryptamine
*2-methyl-l,2,3,4-tetrahydro-B-carboline (MTHC), not found in P. aquatica
*2-methyl-6-methoxy-1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-B-carboline (MMTHC)
*2,9-dimethyl-6-methoxy-l ,2,3,4-tetrahydro-B-carboline (DMTHC)
*Gramine
*7-methoxy-gramine
*5,7-dimethoxy-gramine
*Hordenine

== Cultivation ==

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=8255 Samorini & Festi (amazing publication with review of phalaris analysis and conditions that affect growth)]

== Suppliers ==

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=24897 Suppliers of known strains of phalaris grass]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=20835 Supplier]

== Extraction teks ==

Different extraction teks used for other DMT containing plant can work theoretically for Phalaris too, but there are 3 main issues with extracting from phalaris:

1- Finding a plant that yields decently
2- Finding a plant with good alkaloid profile
3- Dealing with plant impurities/chlorophyll/fats

For these reasons, one will more likely have good results if one extracts from a grown plant of a known strain such as AQ1, Big Medicine for DMT, and Yugo Red or Turkey Red for 5-MeO-DMT, as well as using the stress/growth tricks to improve alkaloid content as described above

To get rid of gramine, there are still some analytical tests to make sure and find a definite tek for phalaris but the main indication we have at this point is the fact that gramine should not be soluble in solvents such as petroleum ether / hexane / heptane / aliphatic naphtha, and therefore pulling with those solvents and recrystallizing with them should be enough to remove gramine. Also cold/room temp limonene seems to not pull gramine. More info in analysis thread linked further below.

For separating from fats, fumarate precipitation such as FASI on limonene or FASA on xylene could potentially be a way to bypass the need for defats.

== Relevant links ==

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=16810 Phalaris - Way of the future]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 The Phalaris Analysis Thread]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23534 Successful Phalaris extraction]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=19547 Where are we at the grass tek]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=34525 Phalaris/other grass types ID thread]

== Scientific articles ==

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=3957 The occurrence of 2-MTHBC in Phalaris arundinacea]

Phalaris spp.

2014-05-15T16:43:57Z

Cosmic Spore: /* General phalaris info */

== Species ==

* [[Phalaris aquatica]]
* [[Phalaris arundinacea]]
* [[Phalaris brachystachys]]

== General phalaris info ==

Phalaris is a genus of grasses that are known in the ethnobotanical world for being a potential alternative source for psychoactive tryptamines.

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Phalaris.zip Phalaris files.zip]

== Alkaloid Content ==

The alkaloid content in the Phalaris genus varies greatly depending on species and strain, as well as conditions of growing. Not all Phalaris will be good for extracting psychoactive tryptamines, some may have very little alkaloids, some may have more of toxic alkaloids such as gramine, or of stimulant-like alkaloids such as hordenine, or they may have wanted tryptamines such as DMT and 5-MeO-DMT. Do not bioassay an extract from Phalaris without making sure you are getting the alkaloids you want. For more info check file linked below.

The alkaloids found so far in Phalaris according to festi and samorini 1994:

*N-methyltryptamine (MMT)
*5-methoxy-N-methyltryptamine (5-MeO-MMT)
*N,N-dimethyltryptamine (DMT)
*5-methoxy-N,N-dimethyltryptamine (5-MeO-DMT)
*5-hydroxy-N,N-dimethyltryptamine (Bufotenine, 5-HO-DMT)
*5-methyl-tryptamine
*5-methoxy-tryptamine
*2-methyl-l,2,3,4-tetrahydro-B-carboline (MTHC), not found in P. aquatica
*2-methyl-6-methoxy-1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-B-carboline (MMTHC)
*2,9-dimethyl-6-methoxy-l ,2,3,4-tetrahydro-B-carboline (DMTHC)
*Gramine
*7-methoxy-gramine
*5,7-dimethoxy-gramine
*Hordenine

== Cultivation ==

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=8255 Samorini & Festi (amazing publication with review of phalaris analysis and conditions that affect growth)]

== Suppliers ==

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=24897 Suppliers of known strains of phalaris grass]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=20835 Supplier]

== Extraction teks ==

Different extraction teks used for other DMT containing plant can work theoretically for Phalaris too, but there are 3 main issues with extracting from phalaris:

1- Finding a plant that yields decently
2- Finding a plant with good alkaloid profile
3- Dealing with plant impurities/chlorophyll/fats

For these reasons, one will more likely have good results if one extracts from a grown plant of a known strain such as AQ1, Big Medicine for DMT, and Yugo Red or Turkey Red for 5-MeO-DMT, as well as using the stress/growth tricks to improve alkaloid content as described above

To get rid of gramine, there are still some analytical tests to make sure and find a definite tek for phalaris but the main indication we have at this point is the fact that gramine should not be soluble in solvents such as petroleum ether / hexane / heptane / aliphatic naphtha, and therefore pulling with those solvents and recrystallizing with them should be enough to remove gramine. Also cold/room temp limonene seems to not pull gramine. More info in analysis thread linked further below.

For separating from fats, fumarate precipitation such as FASI on limonene or FASA on xylene could potentially be a way to bypass the need for defats.

== Relevant links ==

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=16810 Phalaris - Way of the future]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 The Phalaris Analysis Thread]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23534 Successful Phalaris extraction]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=19547 Where are we at the grass tek]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=34525 Phalaris/other grass types ID thread]

== Scientific articles ==

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=3957 The occurrence of 2-MTHBC in Phalaris arundinacea]

Category:DMT Containing Plants

2014-05-13T02:11:33Z

Cosmic Spore: /* WIKI -> Botanicals (link). */

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is to remain in accordance with the Botanical Transclusion Project, in which only a partial transclusion of each plant's individual page is to be included her in the form of an info box. The proper procedure to create a page for each plant is to transfer its info box from this page to its own page in the following manner:
{{ShowInfo/In Article|[[Image:Information.png]]|Format for Initial Page Creation
|
<nowiki>
{{Botanical Transclusion Header}}
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
<onlyinclude>
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
{{botanics_info|Plant Image|Plant Name|
* Alkaloid Content w/ Reference
|Optional Nickname
}}
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
</onlyinclude>
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
{{Wikipedia}}
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
== Reference ==
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
{{Page Footer}}
</nowiki>
}}
The Wikipedia transclusion may be replaced if personal authorship is desirable.
}}

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a work in progress -- its content throughout is not yet complete.}}

==[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Botanicals#Plants WIKI -> Botanicals] (link).==

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Containing_Plants WIKI -> DMT Containing Plants]

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Botanicals WIKI -> Botanicals]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=357670#post357670 Guide to Researching Psychoactive Plants: Resource List]

* [http://sharetheseeds.me/forum/index.php?topic=230.msg305#msg305 STS: Practical Resources for Plant ID and description]

* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mimosa_hostilis Mimosa Hostilis on Wikipedia]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa ID stuff]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=369566#post369566 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace]

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33648 Acacia Identification Thread]

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Trying to improve Acacia information]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia ID.zip]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=34525 Phalaris/other grass types ID thread]

* [http://www.erowid.org/plants/phalaris/phalaris_images.shtml Erowid.org -> Phalaris Grass Images]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=173732#post173732 help identifying Phalaris arundinacea]

* [http://extension.entm.purdue.edu/caps/pestInfo/reedCanaryGrass.htm extension.entm.purdue.edu -> Reed Canary Grass]

==DMT Containing plants==
The following is a list of plants known to contain tryptamines.

=== Acacia ===
{{:Acacia_acuminata}}

{{:Acacia_alpina}}

{{:Acacia angustifolia}}

{{:Acacia angustissima}}

{{:Acacia auriculiformis}}

{{:Acacia baileyana}}

{{:Acacia berlandieri}}

{{:Acacia catechu}}

{{:Acacia caven}}

{{:Acacia colei}}

{{:Acacia complanata}}

{{:Acacia constricta}}

{{:Acacia confusa}}

{{:Acacia cornigera}}

{{:Acacia cultriformis}}

{{:Acacia farnesiana}}

{{:Acacia filiciana}}

{{:Acacia_floribunda}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia georginae|
* Psychoactive,[8] plus deadly toxins
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia greggii|
* N-methyl-β-phenethylamine,[12] phenethylamine[36]
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia harpophylla|
* Phenethylamine, hordenine at a ratio of 2:3 in dried leaves, 0.6% total[6]
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia holoserica|
* Hordenine, 1.2% in bark[6]
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia horrida|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia implexa|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia karroo|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia kempeana|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia kettlewelliae|
* 1.5[6]–1.88%[38] alkaloids, 92% consisting of phenylethylamine.[6] 0.9% N-methyl-2-phenylethylamine found a different time
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia laeta|
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia lingulata|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia longifolia|
* 0.2% tryptamine in bark, leaves, some in flowers, phenylethylamine in flowers (Hegnauer 1994)
* DMT in plant (Lyceaum)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia macradenia|
* Tryptamine
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia maidenii|
* Bark of A. maidenii contains 0.6% of N-methyltryptamine and DMT in the proportions approx. 2:3 (Fitzgerald & Sioumis 1965)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia mangium|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia melanoxylon|
* DMT in the bark and leaf, less than 0.02% total alkaloids (Hegnauer 1994)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia mellifera|
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia nilotica|
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia obtusifolia|
* 0.4 to 0.5 % DMT/NMT in the dried bark (Csiro 1990)
*0.15-0.6% DMT,NMT(2:1)plus trace betacarboline in bark, 0.06-0.2% leaves (Southern Cross University comissioned test 2001)
*5-MeoDMT & bufotenine in some loctations (E., Entheogen Review 1995-6; Trout's Notes 2005-10) Is not fast growing in the wild and is under threat of serious overharvesting. Is NOT considered a weed as previously stated here, and will become rarer if wild seed populations exploited further.(Nen, original bioassay subject)
{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia oerfota|
* Less than 0.1% DMT in leaf (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia penninervis|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia phlebophylla|
* 0.3% DMT in leaf, NMT (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia platensis|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia podalyriaefolia|
* Tryptamine in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
* 0.5% to 2% DMT in fresh bark, phenethylamine trace amounts (Hegnauer 1994)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia polyacantha|
* DMT in leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia pycantha|
* Psychoactive,[8] but less than 0.02% total alkaloids
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia retinodes|
* DMT and MMT (www.factorey.ch/Eins.htm)
* Less than 0.02% total alkaloids found (Hegnauer 1994)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia roemeriana|
* β-methyl-phenethylamine
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia rigidula|
* DMT, NMT, tryptamine, amphetamines, mescaline, nicotine and others (Phytochem. 199
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia salicina|
* Psychoactive[8][9] Ash used in Pituri.
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia sassa|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia schaffneri|
* β-methyl-phenethylamine, Phenethylamine[36] Amphetamines and mescaline also found
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia schottii|
* β-methyl-phenethylamine
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia senegal|
* DMT, in the leaf
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia simplex|
*DMT and NMT, in the leaf, stem and trunk bark, 0.81% DMT in bark, MMT
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia taxensis|
* β-methyl-phenethylamine
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia tenuifolia|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|File:290px-Eat267.jpg|Acacia tortilis|
* DMT, NMT, and other tryptamines
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia sieberiana|
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia verek|
* Psychoactive (Rätsch 2004)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia vestita|
* Tryptamine, in the leaf and stem (Trout's Notes)
* Less than 0.02% total alkaloids (Hegnauer 1994)
}}

=== Anadenanthera ===
{{:Anadenanthera colubrina}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Anadenanthera macrocarpa|
* Seed pods contain dimethyltryptamine and the seeds bufotenin, bufotenin oxide, and oxide of dimethyltryptamine (GRANIER-DOYEUX 1965)
}}

{{:Anadenanthera_peregrina}}

=== Common Reed ===
{{botanics_info|image:arundo_donax.jpg|Arundo donax|Entire Plant contains 5-MeO-DMT (Shulgin, TIHKAL)Flowers contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, and 5-MeO-NMT (Shulgin, TIHKAL)Roots contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, 5-MeO-NMT, Bufotenine, bufotenidine, dehydrobufotenidine (Shulgin, TIHKAL)}}

{{botanics_info|image:desmanthus.jpg|Desmanthus illinoensis|Root contains DMT - 0.200% (Ott)Root Bark contains DMT - 0.340% (Ott)}}

{{:Phalaris_arundinacea}}

{{botanics_info|image:phalaris_aquatica.jpg|Phalaris tuberosa|Leaves and seedlings contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, and related compounds (Smith 1977)DMT - 0.100% (erowid)5-MeO-DMT - 0.022% (erowid)5-OH-DMT - 0.005% (erowid)}}

{{:Phragmites_australis}}

=== Delosperma ===
{{botanics_info|Image:Delosperma acuminatum2.jpg|Delosperma acuminatum|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:delosperma_acuminatum.jpg|Delosperma cooperi|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:iceplantbrighteyes-may.jpg|Delosperma ecklonis|DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:Delosperma_esterhuyseniae.jpg|Delosperma esterhuyseniae|DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma hallii|5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma harazianum|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma hirtum|DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:DelospermaLydenbergense.jpg|Delosperma lydenbergense|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma nubigenum|5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma pageanum|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma pergamentaceum|Traces of DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:180px-Delosperma_tradescantioides_leafs_IMGP0042.jpg|Delosperma tradescantioides|DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

=== Desmodium ===
{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium caudatum|
* Roots: 0.087% DMT, Bufotenine-N-oxide 0.03% (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium gangeticum|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT, whole plant, roots, stems, leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium gyrans|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT, leaves, roots (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium pulchellum|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT, whole plant, roots, stems, leaves, flowers (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium racemosum|
* 5-MEO-DMT (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium triflorum|
* DMT-N-oxide, roots (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Lespedeza bicolor|var. japonica
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in leaves and root bark (Ott)
}}

=== Petalostylis ===
{{botanics_info|image:petalostylis_cassioides.jpg|Petalostylis cassioides|0.4-0.5% tryptamine, DMT, etc. in leaves and stems (Johns et al 1966)}}

=== Mimosa ===
{{:Mimosa hostilis}}

{{:Mimosa ophthalmocentra}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Mimosa scabrella|
* DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|File:250px-Mimosa_verrucosa01.jpg|Mimosa verrucosa|
* DMT (Schultes 1969)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Mucuna pruriens|
* Leaves, seeds, stems and roots contain L-Dopa, Serotonin, 5-HTP, and Nicotine, as well as N,N-DMT, Bufotenine, and 5-MeO-DMT (Erowid)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Petalostylis labicheoides|var. casseoides
* DMT in leaves and stems (Ott)
}}

{{:Diplopterys_cabrerana}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Horsfieldia superba|
* 5-MeO-DMT and beta-carbolines (Jossang et al. 1991)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Iryanthera ulei|
* 5-MEO-DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Osteophloem platyspermum|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

=== Virola===
{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola calophylla|
* Leaves 0.149% DMT (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola carinata|
* DMT in leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola divergens|
* DMT in leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola elongata|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark and leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola melinonii|
* DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola multinervia|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark and leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola pavonis|
* DMT in leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola peruviana|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola rufuta|
* Alkaloids in bark and root, 95% of which is 5-MeO-DMT (Shulgin, TIHKAL)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola sebifera|
* DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola theiodora|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark, roots, leaves and flowers (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola venosa|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in roots and leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Psychotria carthaginensis|
* 0.2% average DMT in dried leaves (Ott)
}}

{{:Psychotria_viridis}}

==Sources==

{{Page_Footer|Botanicals|DMT}}

FAQ - DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide

2014-05-13T02:09:48Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Links */

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of the 'DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide'<ref>DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide
[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6341]</ref>.}}

== DMT overview ==

=== What is DMT, Where do I learn the basics? ===

DMT is a naturally occuring substance, present in trace amounts in normal human metabolism (and its purpouse is unknown, check question [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Is_it_true_the_pineal_gland_produces_DMT_naturally_and_is_involved_in_dreaming.3F 2.1] , as well as in a variety of plants and animals.

It can be extracted from some of these plants and smoked for some very strong psychedelic/entheogenic effects lasting 10 minutes. It can also be taken orally, but we have an enzyme (MAO) in our stomach that destroys dmt if taken orally, so for taking orally DMT must be acompanied by a substance that inhibits this enzyme (MAOI, or MAO Inhibitor), which is also present in some other plants.

Ayahuasca, a sacred drink used by indigenous people of the Amazon, is an example of a drink made from a dmt-containing plant (Psychotria viridis), together with a MAOI containing plant (Banisteriopsis caapi), that is drank orally for a psychedelic/entheogenic experience lasting around 4 hours.

When smoking, we do not need to use MAOI because we do not have MAOs in our lungs. Nevertheless, some people like to also ingest MAOIs before vaporizing DMT, or vaporizing a MAOI together with the DMT (such as in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ_-_DMT_Frequently_Asked_Questions_and_Troubleshooting_Guide#What_is_changa_.2F_How_to_make_changa_.3F changa]), to make the experience last longer.

For learning more about DMT, this whole webpage is dedicated to it. Here's a few links

==== Links ====

* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dimethyltryptamine Wikipedia DMT Link]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/ The Dmt Nexus Wiki]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ Frequently Asked Questions]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=forum Main Dmt Nexus Forum]

=== Are there different types of DMT? ===

DMT can be in salt form or in freebase form. A salt form means the DMT is attached to an acid molecule. DMT is naturally in salt form in the plants because of plant acids (for example dmt tannate or oxalate due to tannic or oxalic acid being present in some plants). When people extract DMT, they can make it in freebase form to smoke, because DMT in salt form can't be smoked, it has high boiling point and breaks down instead of vaporizing efficiently. Some salt forms like DMT fumarate can even be toxic to smoke due to creation of maleic anhydride during combustion.

Appart from being naturally in brews made of DMT containing plants like ayahuasca, DMT can also be made into salt for, for example DMT fumarate, when people extract it, because DMT fumarate is stable and can be stored for long, and it can be taken orally or intranasally. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods this] for more info. Regarding dosages in different salt forms, one can read [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this] thread. Each salt form of DMT have their own weight depending on the acid molecule weight (for example DMT fumarate's weight is around 76% DMT, 24% fumaric acid), so dosages could be adjusted proportionately to the amount of DMT when ingesting, but since each person is differently sensitive to DMT and since salt form may be a bit more effective to ingest orally, this "salt weight calculation" is not really necessary for DMT, one can just ingest according to [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 these] recommendations, starting low for first time, and adjusting according to own sensitivity and batch the next time.

There are other molecules which have the DMT structure built into them but they are not DMT, they have structural modifications, for example 4-HO-DMT also known as psilocin and 4-PO-DMT, psilocybin, the active compounds in mushrooms, which are different molecules altogether with their own particular effects. Small modifications in molecules can completely change effects. So psilocybin, psilocin, 5-MeO DMT, and 5-HO-DMT (bufotenine), plus others, are all different molecules, they are NOT the same as DMT. Each of them has different effects, pharmacology, etc etc. On the other hand, DMT freebase or DMT in salt form (tannate, acetate, fumarate) are all DMT.

== DMT Chemistry and Body ==

=== Is it true the pineal gland produces DMT naturally and is involved in dreaming and death? What does DMT do in the body? ===

At this point there is no evidence to support the claim that DMT is produced in the pineal or brain. It is a speculation raised by Dr Rick Strassman due to his previous interest in the pineal. So far in humans, the key enzymes necessary for this have [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=5549 not been found present in the human brain], therefore it seem more likely it is produced elsewhere in the body, though some recent research has shown in primates these enzymes are present in pineal gland. In any case nothing is really proven yet so we must avoid making claims before more data comes in.

The supposed connection of DMT and dreams, and the idea that DMT is released when we die, both are speculation with no real evidence to back them up.

It IS proven, though, for decades already, that DMT is produced in the human body and is present at all times in trace amounts, for unknown functions (which could be several functions, see last link below).

==== Links ====

*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18834 Zero proof DMT is made in the brain]
*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=295746#post295746 I dislike the "DMT is responsible for your dreams" theory]
*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18394 Rethinking DMT and the Pineal Gland]
*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18448 The functions of DMT in our body: If DMT would be a neurotransmitter]

=== Is DMT dangerous? ===

Researches have been made showing the relative safety of dmt. It does not cause physical damage, addiction, and any tolerance disappears very quickly. Ayahuasca, the dmt-containing brew from the Amazon, has been studied by multidisciplinary groups in Brazil and other countries and was shown that in a careful context, it presents no negative cognitive/psychiatric/social consequences, even in adolescents.

There is yet little research into vaporized dmt, but there seems to be no sign that it is in any way more dangerous physically than other administration forms. There are no reported deaths from smoking DMT. Smoking it will not lead to a dangerous overdose because the onset is so quick that one can only inhale a certain amount before being gone to ´hyperspace', without being able to smoke more until one is down again.

However:
* People with extreme heart or other conditions for whom strong emotions could be dangerous are contra-indicated, just like a roller coaster would for them.
* It is important to notice that with any psychedelic, it is a very powerful emotional/mental experience, so those with personal or family psychiatric history, unstable emotionally or going through some very difficult moments in life should be extremely careful.
* Also, it is possible that during the experience, one temporarily loses orientation in the consensus reality, so smoking/ingesting next to a cliff, sharp objects, etc, is not a good idea. BE IN A PHYSICALLY SAFE ENVIRONMENT!
* DO NOT use MAOIs (so for example an ayahuasca brew) together with stimulants or SSRI medication

Appart from that, there are psychological issues to be considered. Please read the health and safety section linked below, as well as the scientific articles also linked below.

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety Health And Safety Section]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1441 Scientific Articles on DMT/Ayahuasca/Psychedelics]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4400 Long term effects of smoking DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5843 DMT After-Effects]

=== Is a MAOI diet / Ayahuasca fasting necessary? What kind of dangers are there with medication interaction? ===

Unlike some pharmaceutical MAOI, the Harmalas, alkaloids present in the caapi vine and syrian rue are reversible inhibitors of MAO-A, while Tyramine, the component in some food that could cause problems in big amounts, is eliminated partly by MAO-A and but also partly by the intact MAO-B ([http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 source] ). Also for some pharmacological reason as shown in [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_fig9big.jpg this] diagram, tyramine can still be partly metabolized by MAO-A even during the harmala effects.

In other words, in terms of '''food''' interaction, the danger with reversible MAOI use (in for example ayahuasca or pharmahuasca with harmalas) and food interaction is very reduced. The necessity of the very strict dieting for ayahuasca with extensive list of what one must absolutely not eat is an exaggeration, though it is advised to eat light because extreme amounts of tyramine in some specific foods could theoretically still be a potential problem.

There seem to be no reports of actual life-threatening events with tyramine-containing foods and harmalas. There are even people that purposely ate tyramine-containing foods with no ill effects, but there have also been reports of negative symptoms such as very strong headaches and negative body load when mixing a heavy food consumption before/during/after harmala consumption. Several other variables may also be involved that are unrelated to tyramine and harmala-food interaction (variables such as for example exhaustion from the trip, vasodilation, the body/ayahuasca telling the person to 'eat better' in general, etc). Headaches seem specially common when mixing beer and harmalas.

In any case, it is generally considered common sense to eat light before and after the use of ayahuasca and analogues (and psychedelics in general). Just follow your good sense and you should be fine. To eer on the side of caution, the food to avoid eating (or over-eating) is aged or fermented food specially aged cheese, fermented or smoked meat (fish included) and soy products (though some soy products have also been found to have little tyramine content). Beer should also be avoided as some people have experienced negative interaction between MAOIs and beer. Apart from that, there are no real restrictions, eat lightly and all should be good :)

In relation to how long to wait after the last food before taking ayahuasca, this is very personal. Some like to have empty stomach and be fasting for 6 or more hours, but this is not necessary, and others feel it is even negative to fast for so long, because a too empty stomach might make one very tired during the ceremony, specialy at the end, and can also make purging a specially difficult or uncomfortable experience. Some consider better to have eaten something light (like some fruits or cereal or light sandwhich) a couple of hours before ingesting ayahuasca/analogues.

Remember: With the exception of moclobemide, which stands in the same category as harmalas as far as reversibility and food interaction goes, avoid all other pharmaceutical MAOIs !! Pharmaceutical irreversible MAOIs are VERY dangerous to take without taking strong precautions with food and drug interaction.

'''What IS dangerous is interaction between any MAOIs (including harmalas) and stimulants or some medication''' such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_serotonin_reuptake_inhibitor SSRI] medication such as prozac, or stimulants such as amphetamines or others. If you're taking SSRI's, do not consume MAOIs!! Do not mix stimulants with MAOIs either! Mixing stimulants/SSRIs with MAOIs can cause Serotonin Syndrome which may lead to convulsions or even death. For pharmaceuticals and substances that should NEVER be taken when consuming harmalas, check [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 1] and [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 2]

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29131 Do you experience tyramine interaction with harmalas?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5711 Will smoked Rue cause MAOI?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5398 Think iv cracked it]
* [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=tyramine%20food%20table&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CFMQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fddr.nal.usda.gov%2Fbitstream%2F10113%2F7351%2F1%2FIND43817287.pdf&ei=PpvsT8zAEsXAhAehj-nPBQ&usg=AFQjCNGKR57Q_VTqzOjKxfvKbu0kDTB8Ng&cad=rja Scientific publication on food containing tyramine]
* [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 scientific publication on interaction of MAOIs and tyramine]

== DMT and Society ==

=== Is dmt legal? ===

Posession and sales of DMT in its pure extracted/synthesized form is illegal, schedule 1 in USA and controlled by United Nations and can land you in jail if found in most countries.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/dmt/dmt_law.shtml Erowid DMT Law Vault]

=== '''Are the natural ingredients such as mimosa, and ayahuasca, illegal?''' ===

'''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=21527 On the Legal Status of DMT Source Plants in the US (with a discussion of the religious use defense)]'''

==== Links ====

* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/ayahuasca/ayahuasca_law.shtml Erowid Ayahuasca Law Vault]
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/plants/mimosa/mimosa_law.shtml Erowid Mimosa Law Vault]

=== Whats the price of dmt / Can I trade dmt? ===

'''[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Attitude_Page#No_discussion_on_selling.2C_buying.2C_sourcing.2C_acquiring.2C_pricing.2C_trading.2C_mentioning_pending_deliveries_or_smuggling_of_drugs No discussion on selling, buying, sourcing, acquiring, pricing, trading, mentioning pending deliveries or smuggling of drugs].'''

'''DO NOT BUY OR SELL DMT!''' We at the nexus are against selling/profiting with this incredible substance. We do not know and we do not want to know how much it costs in the street, we do not want it to be sold on the streets! This is not only disrespectful and shows a lack of understanding about the power of this substance, but its also a liability for the whole community. Dealing/trading DMT can attract the attention of authorities and create a problem not only for yourself but for all others in the community.

'''Talking about DMT sales or trade will result in suspension from the forum!'''

All the reasons why we dont believe in it are listed in the thread below

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3414 Street Value of DMT (and why you should never sell it) ]

== DMT Extraction ==

=== Where to start? ===

There are several ways of extracting DMT, and different ways use different chemicals and take different time. It is recommended that before embarking on extracting, one reads up at least a couple of different teks (link on the bottom) to understand the processes.

The basics of an extraction is:

DMT is present in many plant materials and can be isolated through simple processes. Most commonly used plant is [[Mimosa hostilis]] root bark, but there are other plants with good alkaloid profile such as certain Acacias and certain strains of [[Phalaris spp.]]

DMT in an acidic solution is in salt form and therefore water soluble, while DMT in a basic solution becomes a freebase and not water soluble but rather soluble in non-polar solvents (like limonene, naphtha, xylene, etc). This works similarly to most other alkaloids, with a few exceptions, for example harmalas freebase dont dissolve in the solvents mentioned above, but when you add a base to a solution containing harmalas, they just precipitate and you can filter them.

Back to DMT, non-polar solvents separate from water like oil, it stays as a layer on top. By playing with the pH (adding an acid or a base) you make the dmt move from one place to the other while most of other impurities dont, and then you separate the layers by pippeting/separatory funnel/decanting, and then retrieve the dmt from the non-polar solvent by evaporating it or freeze-precipitating (putting it in a closed container in the freezer, and as the temperature goes down the solubility of dmt in the solvent diminishes, so after some hours dmt precipitates and can be retrieved). There are differences depending on the process of extraction you use (for example limonene can't be evaporated and neither freeze precipitated, it's usually salted, as described in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB], but that is, in a very general way, how it works.

There are some new developed teks for extracting dmt with food-safe materials and/or no petro-chemical solvents, such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] , [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Nontoxic_Approach_to_Spice_Extraction Amor Fati's approach], or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek Q21Q21's extraction tek]. The biggest advantage is, as said, the use of relatively non-toxic material and no petrochemicals but instead solvents such as limonene, which is basically pure orange oil. The disadvantage is that to retrieve the dmt from limonene, you cannot evaporate it (as limonene doesnt evaporate cleanly, it leaves gooey residues), and freeze precipitation also doesnt work (as even in freeze temperatures, dmt is still too soluble in it so it doesnt precipitate), so there are 2 extra steps, which are to 'salt out' the limonene by mixing it with an acidic solution, evaporating that solution and then freebasing the resulting product if one wants to smoke it (or just keeping the salt for storage or oral consumption), as explained in the teks mentioned above. These steps are just as easy as any other step done in the earlier steps of the extraction but the fact that its two extra steps means some extra time and work which some people might not want.

There are also the standard STB (straight-to-base) teks that have been used a lot before the food-safe/limo teks, the two most common being [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Noman%27s_tek Noman's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Lazyman%27s_tek Lazyman Tek]. The mimosa (or whatever plant material extracted) is put straight in a basic solution from the beginning, with no acid-adding step, and hence the name. The advantage of STBs generally being that they need less steps, maybe simpler for beginners, and can usually be quicker, and the main disadvantage being the amount of lye/caustic soda they require (lye being dangerous if it spills because it causes serious chemical burns and could make one blind, though if done correctly it will not be on your final product. Also disadvantage of using much lye is it is watched in many places due to being used in meth production, so it might be suspicious to buy it, or even impossible to find, specially in some specific places of USA). Another possible disadvantage of STB teks is some people claim the final product is not as clean, its more yellow. Yellow dmt isnt necessarily a problem, though, some people even prefer it. Also, one can easily do a recrystalization (look below in the FAQ for explanation) which will effectively clean up the final product quickly and with very little solvent needed.

Then there are the A/B extractions (acid/base), such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Vovin%27s_tek Vovin's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Marsofold%27s_tek Marsofold's tek]. As the name suggests, the plant material is first simmered/boiled in acid 3x, filtered and later the base is added. The advantage being that when one is adding the base and mixing the solvent, the solids were already removed after the acid step, making it easier to mix the solvent, and easier to discard everything later. Also the acid step allows one to do a [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Defat_process Defat], though usually that is considered a wasteful way of cleaning up because it needs a lot of solvent for removing a bit of fats, which can be accomplished more efficiently with a recrystallization on the final product. The disadvantage of an A/B is that it takes longer because of the initial acid step, and if one isnt thorough enough in this acid step one will lose a lot of actives when discarding the solids before moving on to the Base step.

==== Links ====

* [[:Category:Extraction_Tek|Extraction Teks]]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1085 DMT Extraction Overview]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=318336#post318336 Art of liquid-liquid extraction - The basics]

=== What is the best tek? ===

There is no "best" tek. All teks featured in the Nexus Wiki should result in similar final product purity and yields, if correctly performed. Each tek has it's own characteristics regarding chemicals used, how long it takes, how thorough it's explained, if it includes optional clean up steps or not, etc. That is why, before deciding on one tek, it's important to read all (or at least some of them), also the "where to start" question above and the extraction overview linked there. That way you will have a better understanding of the processes instead of just blindly following a tek, which means you'll probably be more succesful with whichever tek you decide to use in the end.

=== Is my solvent/chemical OK to use? ===

Before using any solvent, one must make sure it is a clean evaporating solvent with no toxic/residual additives (or for other non-volatile chemicals used, make sure it has no toxic/unwanted additives). Always:

* Read the ingredients on the solvent's or chemical's label. Make sure it is pure with nothing appart from the desired chemical (for example: Naphtha/Aliphatic hydrocarbons)
* Google "solventbrand solvent/chemical msds", searching the brand of the solvent you have access to, to see if it has an msds, which usually contains more in depth information on what the product contains. For example "merck acetone msds". Or alternatively:
* Check the webpage linked in [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=165091#post165091 this thread] and see if your solvent and its contents is featured there
* VERY IMPORTANT: Always do an evaporating test before using a solvent for the first time: Add a quantity of the solvent to a glass/pyrex/plate (do NOT use a cd) and let it evaporate. If it leaves residues of any kind, dont use it. If it evaporates cleanly, chances are its ok to use.
* Check [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=14772 this] thread on whether your chem is ok to use or where to get the right chems.

=== Is this material or container ok to use with my chemicals? ===

The keyword to search is "Chemical compatibility" or "Chemical Resistance", plus the material and solvent/chemical you are looking for. Below are some good links to help you already find the information you want:

==== Link ====

* [http://www.nalgenelabware.com/techdata/chemical/index.asp Chemical Compatibility Search]
* [http://www.coleparmer.com/techinfo/chemcomp.asp Chemical compatibility database 2]
* [http://www.greenterpene.com/GreenTerpene_Product_Compatibility_s/48.htm Limonene compatibility chart]

=== Is plastic OK to use for my extraction? ===

In short, better not. If you are going to use anyways (NOT recommended), be sure to check what kind of plastic it is, and that its compatible with the chemicals used, as in the links of the previous question. But again, better not use plastic and only use glass, read links below for explanations why:

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=26324 Warning to those using plastic containers]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=340124#post340124 Using plastic for extractions]

=== What are the different bases one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired base.

* For [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH
* For [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH, Potassium Hydroxide/KOH
* For [[:Category:Dry_Technique|Dry tek]]: Calcium Hydroxide

=== What are the different acids one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired acid.

Plenty of different kinds of acid will work, but generally people preffer the first one on the following list:
* Vinegar (acetic acid)
* Lemon Juice (citric acid)
* Phosphoric Acid
* Hydrochloric Acid/HCl/Muriatic Acid.

NOTE: Sulfuric acid is not very well suited towards this extraction, as it reacts with lye to form sodium sulfate which is very poorly water-soluble. This may result in a generous white precipitate.

Reaction:

2NaOH + H2SO4 => Na2SO4 + 2H2O

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1556 Acids]

=== How can I convert sodium bicarbonate into sodium carbonate ===

==== Link ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Conversion_of_Sodium_Bicarbonate_into_Sodium_Carbonate Sodium bicarb -> carb conversion wiki]

=== How long each acid cook? ===

30 min - 2 hours cooks in a crockpot on low-medium (or just low fire on the stove). Some people avoid boiling and only simmer, but it appears DMT salts are very stable even at boil temperatures, so there doesnt seem to be diminishing yields when boiling. Also, it's important to stir once in a while during the acid cook.

=== How many acid cooks? ===

General consensus talks about 3 runs, 2 being minimum and 5 being over-careful.

=== Can I make one long cook instead of 3 shorter ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== Which ratio of MHRB:Lye:Water is the best? ===

For STBs, 1g MHRB:1g Lye:15ml Water is generally accepted as a good ratio. People have had success with significantly less water, but 15ml per g bark is a recommended amount because less than that might make the whole mixture too thick and it can make the separation of the solvent more difficult. Also, one actually needs much less lye but this amount of lye helps prevent emulsions forming as well helps break down the plant material so that dmt is more exposed to the water.

Alternatively, one can just add enough lye for the solution to turn completely black, and go ahead and extract. If emulsions form, add more lye. One does not need to worry about over-basifying, there's no such thing. Excess lye will stay behind in the water layer once you separate the solvent in any case.

=== Can I scale down/up the amounts stated in a tek if I want to extract different amounts of mimosa? ===

Yes, just scale the quantities proportionally according to your situation

=== Can I make one big pull instead of few smaller ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be significantly smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

==== Links ====

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== How big should the pulls be / How much to pre-evaporate before freezing? ===

100ml per pull per 200g bark (or a 2:1 ratio of bark:naphtha) is a sensible recomendation. More wont hurt but it will waste solvent as you will have to evaporate much afterwards. Less solvent per pull is even better, as long as you repeat more pulls to compensate. Sometimes people use more solvent than this recommended amount, like when for example if using this ratio in one's container the layers are too thin and it is hard to separate the solvent (though there are [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#How_to_pull_.2F_get_the_solvent_off_from_the_mix.3F tricks for better separation]). If the plan is to freeze precipitate and one uses more naphtha than the recommended amount, it is recommended to pre-evaporate the naphtha before freezing.

The amount that one should pre-evaporate depends of course on how much solvent used. The idea about pre-evap is that the solvent should be as saturated as possible with dmt so that most or all of it precipitates when put in the freezer. If its not saturated enough, then not much (or not at all) will precipitate. So if one used more than 3:1 ratio of bark:solvent, then pre-evaporate enough to reach the equivalent of it (so if one used, lets say, 100ml per 100g bark, pre evaporating till a third of original volume is recommended). [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=150095#post150095 Here's] an attempt to explain why not having it saturated enough may result in no or low yield

Later pulls will most likely be less saturated with dmt than first pulls, so for the later pulls (like lets say the 4th and 5th), it would be logical to pre-evaporate even more than the first pulls. In the example given above, instead of evaporating until a third of original volume, maybe one could evaporate until there is only a quarter or a fifth of original volume.

Some people gauge the amount of pre-evaporation by doing it until the solvent starts getting cloudy.

In any case, remember to re-use the naphtha after retrieving the crystals from precipitation, and/or evaporating it all the way down to see if there are any actives that remained in the naphtha after the freeze precipitation

If one is extracting a different plant or using a different solvent, then the ratio recommendation can change. Though in extractions that one salts out the solvent (like for example in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] and other limonene-based extractions), one can (and even should) use significantly more solvent, because all alkaloids will anyways be retrieved with the salting step.

=== The layers wont separate, what to do? ===

Possible fixes:
# Dont shake next time, if you did so! Instead, Stir/roll/turn upside down slowly, several times.
# Add more basic water/lye to the mix (either mix is not basic enough or too much plant matter for too little water)
# Make a warm water bath with the whole container (remember no fire sources near solvents, and leave top slightly open for preventing building up of pressure)
# Tapping on the side of the container/vibration (like sitting on top of washing mashine)
# Adding plenty of no-additives non-iodized salt (will make the water more polar and therefore chemically help in the separation)

====Links====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5866 Naphtha won' seperate?]

=== My Solvent is Brown/Dark, what to do ? ===

It happens for some people that after mixing the solvent with the mimosa solution, the naphtha picks up a lot of color and when the layers are separated, there is no emulsion but the naphtha is very dark, brown/burgundy. The exact reasons for this are still unknown, but it seems to happen mostly with STB extractions, powdered bark and heated pulls. It may be that there are microscopic suspended particles of the mimosa/black liquid which for some reason refuse to settle, but nobody yet knows for sure.

Considering this is not an emulsion issue (if so, it can be solved as stated [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#The_layers_wont_separate.2C_what_to_do.3F here]), this issue can be solved by:

1- Wait a few hours and see if the color settles and the solvent layer gets clearer.

2- Separate the pull as you would normally, and do a sodium carbonate wash (explanation also here in the FAQ). If the wash isnt sufficient to get the dark away, then :

3- Do a 'mini A/B' (mixing the separated dark solvent with vinegar 3x, separating the vinegar and discarding the solvent. Then basify the vinegar by adding lye, and pull with fresh solvent)

=== How to pull / get the solvent off from the mix? ===

* [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Each person finds his own way. One of the practical ways is to first, with HDPE or glass pipette/turkey baster/glass syringe, crudely separate the solvent and maybe a bit of the mimosa mix into a tall thin container. Then, with another pipette/glass syringe (or same one, washed), separate the solvent (it will be easier due to being thiner container, so solvent layer will be thicker than before) to the final container for evap or freeze precip. On this second separation, only pull out what you are sure you can do accurately, and the last bit throw back into the main container. Often people complain that the turkey baster wont hold the solvent well and will start releasing liquid as soon as you stop pulling. A [http://www.plastyshack.com/images/glass_syringe.jpg glass syringe] or pipette will work better, you can find them sold in lab/chem/medical supply stores or online in a variety of shops.

* [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Same as above, or also using a separatory funnel.

=== Should I wash my spice? ===

Washing spice has as a main function to eliminate any possible lye or other polar impurities (like droplets of the mimosa basic mix) from the final product, which might make the smoke harsher. Nevertheless, unless one was sloppy and some of the basic mimosa liquid came through to the solvent when separating, there should be nothing or very small amounts of it in your final product.

In any case if one feels better making sure the spice is cleaner (because we all know how important our mental state is in these experiences, even if its clean but if you're worried it might make the experience worse), or if one's spice is unusually harsh, then proceed to a sodium carbonate wash (DO NOT WASH WITH AMMONIA! Many people report losing yield with ammonia wash )

# Have your product still in the solvent, before evaporation/precipitation. If you have already in crystal form, redissolve in a naphtha/heptane/hexane.
# Add anywhere in between a pinch to 5 grams of sodium carbonate (yes, doesnt matter... All that is necessary is for it to be a basic solution) to 100ml clean water.
# Add your spice-containing solvent and the sodium carbonate solution together in a container. Mix/shake/whatever (emulsions will not form).
# Separate the solvent from the sodium carbonate solution using pippette/turkey baster/syphon/separatory funnel. One can repeat steps 2-4 if desired, but not strictly necessary
# Freeze precipitate or evaporate to retrieve your DMT

Remember that regardless of washing, its still very important to make sure there are no solvent traces in your spice, which can be done with thorough air drying, or redissolving your dmt in a non-toxic (or less toxic) solvent like ethanol, or pure IPA/Acetone, and evapping that again

=== No precipitation or low yield? ===

# Stir/mix and let separate the layers many times over a longer period of time before pulling the solvent out of the mix, dont just let it stand.
# Evap till theres only a quarter of the naphtha left and repeat freeze precip. If this doesnt help:
# Add more lye/base in the basic solution and try again, with small warm, thoroughly mixed pulls
# If its evapped and it seems like small amount of goo, it may actually be more than it seems because goo is heavier crystals. Recrystallize goo as FAQ instructions or infuse some herbs and weigh herbs before and after infusing to know exact yield.

Other possibilities:
* Bad mimosa/plant material
* Not the right solvent (if solvent has aromatics like xylene mixed in, it wont freeze precipitate, and will evap into a gooey product, mix of dmt and other plant impurities)

=== Melting/dissapearing crystals after freeze precipitation / Whats the best way to retrieve crystals after freezing? ===

This usually happens because of remaining solvent residues warming up and redissolving the crystals.

A trick to work around that is to freeze precipitate for a day or so (if you already have the melted crystals, then redissolve them in small amounts of warm naphtha and back into the freezer), and after crystals have precipitated, take it out of the freezer, pour the naphtha off (through coffee filter just in case any crystals are not stuck to the container), close the container and put it upside down in the freezer for some more hours. This way, any remaining naphtha trapped inside the crystals will drop off to the lid of the container on the bottom.

So after those few hours, take out out of the freezer, opening the lid still upside down so the naphtha drops off, and then you can scrape the drier crystals, put them on top of a coffee filter or on a plate/petri dish to finish air drying, and voilá.

The container used for precipitation is ideally something with a lid that closes well, like a mason jar, and that the edges and walls are straight so you can scrape it off more easily. Scrape as much as you can of the dmt, and whatever is left inside, leave it and reuse the container for the next precipitation, or if its the last precipitation of the extraction, you can use some alcohol (or even naphtha, if its clean evapping naphtha) to pick the last bits up and evaporate in a dish or easy to scrape flat-bottom wide container.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=2290 DMT crystals melting]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=72767#post72767 Question about freeze precipitation times]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3519 Yellow goo. Won't crystallize]

=== Only getting goo with Acacia extraction ===

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=39030 Getting crystals with Acacia confusa]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=440164 Enough GOO questions...]

=== How to safely heat a solvent ? ===

With the solvent safely stored far away, boil some water with any method you want. Once water is boiled, turn off heat source, get the solvent, put it in a glass and submerge the bottom of the glass on a pot containing your recently boiled water. In some seconds/minutes your solvent should be warm and you can use it for recrystallizing or pulling. NEVER warm up solvents directly with a heat source, specially no gas/open fire but even do not use electrical equipment unless it's a safe laboratory hotplate made for such purposes that will guarantee not to create sparks.

=== How does one recrystallize? ===

1- Boil some water. Turn off the fire.

2- Add your impure spice to a shotglass (weigh it before to know the amount).

3- Add around 20-30ml of naphtha/heptane/hexane per gram of impure spice to the shotglass.

4- submerge the bottom of the glass in the water. Leave it standing and/or stir it around a little bit. Most of the spice should redissolve in a few minutes, but probably a layer of goo will stay on the bottom.

5-Decant or pippette your naphtha away from the goo, put this naphtha in a clean container, close it, and into the freezer overnight for freeze precipitation. Alternatively, instead of freezing, if one wants to grow large crystals, put in a container with the lid semi-closed and/or in a place with very little air circulation, so that the naphtha evaporates very slowly. The slower the evap, the larger the crystal growth.

Its possible small amount of spice is still in the goo, so you can add another 5 or 10ml to the shotglass with the goo to pick up the last bits of dmt. This second pull will be more impure as it will pick some oils up, so freeze precipitate it separately. The goo can then be discarded

If one doesnt have a scale or for some reason cant weigh the spice, warm up a quantity of naphtha in a shotglass without the dmt and slowly add small quantities of the warm naphtha to the container containing dmt while stiring, until most dmt dissolved but a bottom layer of goo remains. Then follow step 5.
http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Can_I_make_one_long_cook_instead_of_3_shorter_ones.3F

==== Links ====

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=10545#post10545 Glass Shard Re-Crystallization Pictorial]

=== How many times can I reuse my solvent? ===

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=335995#post335995 On reusing non polar solvents]

=== What to do with the waste? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3072 What to do with the waste]

=== How Can I Extract DMT From Phalaris? ===

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phalaris_%28grass%29 Phalaris] is a genus of grasses with very variable alkaloid content, which means it's very hard or impossible to really say if a given Phalaris will have a good alkaloid content in terms of what alkaloids are present and in what amounts. Some Phalaris have very little to no DMT (or 5-MeO-DMT or Beta-Carbolines), and yet have plenty of potentially toxic alkaloids such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gramine gramine], while others have good amounts of wanted tryptamines and low gramine content. There are also tryptamines and beta-carbolines in Phalaris which have unknown activity and safety profile such as 5-MeO-NMT and others. This variability is especially the case with wild Phalaris or those grown from seeds so, for a more reliable alkaloid content, the clones of known strains such as AQ1, Big Medicine (for DMT) and Turkey Red (for 5-MeO-DMT) are probably a better bet.

'''Even though some people have reported some variable success, we do NOT recommend people to ingest a crude brew made with Phalaris grass due to the unknown amounts of possible toxic alkaloids. If using Phalaris, extract it first as mentioned below'''

If growing Phalaris yourself, [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/images/8/8a/Festiandsamorini.pdf this]publication goes over all the factors of growth that affect the alkaloid content. Please check it out. Here's some selected quotes:

* "The highest concentration (of alkaloids) is in the upper third part of the seedling leaf."
* "The total alkaloid concentration decreases with plant maturity"
* "Total alkaloids are more concentrated in the first regrowth, after the cutting or grazing, than in the first growth just after sowing, decreasing then in the following regrowths"
* "The availability of soil nitrogen increases the alkaloids concentration"
* "In soil, but not in nutrient solution cultivations, the concentration of indole alkaloids (...) increase is greater in plants supplied with ammonium nitrogen compared to the nitric source"
* "Samples of P. arundinacea growing with 20% of the full sunlight can contain an amount of DMT about twice compared to control; 5-MeO-DMT may increase up to a factor of 25"
* "DMT seems to show a maximum in the first hours of the morning, at least in shaded plants, whereas 5-MeODMT reaches a concentration peak in late morning"

Regarding the extraction itself, the plant should be extracted as soon as possible after harvesting since plant enzyme activity can break down alkaloids, even if drying the plant. If plant is not extracted immediately, it should be stored in an alcoholic solution in cold and dark. For extraction, a standard A/B could potentially work well, boiling plant material 3x in acidic water (pH anywhere from 1-6 should work), filtering, reducing to small manageable amount by low boil or simmering, and then basing with NaOH and pulling with solvent. Alternatively, a dry tek (check the nexus extraction teks wiki for more info) with calcium hydroxide or sodium carbonate could work but there haven't been enough tests to say for sure.

Regarding what solvents to use, hexane/heptane or equivalent solvents such as naphtha should work well as gramine is very poorly soluble in it, but if using naphtha make sure that it doesn't contain xylene or aromatics mixed in. Some people report specially low yields with naphtha and suggest cooking oil or room temperature limonene instead (check hippie salad oil tek link below) Cold/room temperature limonene also seems to work to separate tryptamines from gramine but more work needs to be done to make sure this separation is good enough. Check the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] for the most up-to-date info, since solubility tests on gramine are being done right now. If using naphtha or similar hydrocarbons, doing a recrystallization is a good idea to help removing other unwanted alkaloids that may have come across. Using less selective solvents like DCM, xylene, toluene or others (or acetone or alcohols in a dry tek) would pull the potentially toxic unwanted alkaloids, so its not recommended to use those, unless you do a clean up at the end

If you extract from Phalaris, we would be very thankful if you document the process (notes and/or pictures) and post so that we all can learn about the results, whether they are good or not. Please try smoking/ingesting only a very small amount at first if you do. Ideally, purchase colorimetric reagents such as marquis or ehrlich to help identifying the final product if it contains the wanted alkaloids (more info in the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] )

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=44863 Hippie salad oil tek v 2]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=16810&p=7 Phalaris way of the future thread]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=28869 PDF on processing phalaris]

=== Can I use another solvent like xylene after having pulled with naphtha? ===

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359465#post359465 Can SWIM Use Dif Solvents To Extract Different Ranges of Spice?]

== DMT Usage/Methods of administration ==

=== Is my spice ok to smoke? ===

Often people ask in the forum if their spice is ok to smoke, followed by a picture or description of the dmt's appearance. Nevertheless, there are several other variables which simple color does not tell, and which are essential to decide whether one shoud or not smoke it. Please check link below for detailed information:

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=11715 IMPORTANT: spice color purity fallacy AKA is your dmt ok to smoke ? ]

=== How to brew ayahuasca or analogues (mimosa hostilis / syrian rue)? ===

The standard way of brewing is to first of all have the material powdered/grinded or pounded as fine as possible. Then
* 1- boil on low fire (or simmer) the plant material for around three hours (some people do even longer but not necessary unless material is too coarsely shredded.. Also energetic/ecological costs become higher). Use mineral or distilled water ideally, some tap water can have too high pH and diminish yields/potency. Use enough water to cover the plant material.
* 2- filter/strain the brew to separate the liquids and solids, store the liquid separately,
* 3- add fresh water to the solids and boil everything again. Do this for a total of 3 or 4 times,
* 4- put the liquid from the 3 or 4x boils together, keep filtered/decanted solids separately for stp 6,
* 5- reduce the liquid on low fire/simmer to a manageable ammount, like for example 70ml per dose (dosages/amounts of each plant in [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this thread]

OPTIONAL:
* 6- If you want to be very thorough and get all the alkaloids out, you can now soak the plant material in vinegar for a day, then freeze and thaw it, then boil it for another hour or two. This should have a significant amount of alkaloids, which can either be extracted by basing and filtering like the Easy Caapi Extraction Tek, and the alkaloids added to the main brew (or consumed separately in some other occasion), or you could also consume this orally directly but due to the vinegar it will taste very bad, so it's better to at least base it with sodium carbonate slowly until it stops bubbling and/or reaches a pH of around 6, and then it will taste better.

The MAOI containing plant (banisteriopsis caapi vine or syrian rue) can be boiled together with the DMT containing plant (psychotria viridis or mimosa hostilis, or just add some extracted dmt in appropriate dosage to the caapi/rue brew), but specially if its the first time with a particular plant batch, its recommended to brew separately the two, and first find out the potency of the plant by drinking first a small amount.

An acid can be added to the brew (such as a dash of lemon or vinegar), but this is not strictly necessary (and neither the traditional indigenous way), specially if your plant is finely powdered, because alkaloids in the plant are naturally in water-soluble form. Though acid can increase the potency of the brew (specially for non-powdered plant material), it will also make it taste worse. To get the best out of all the worlds, its recommended to do step 6, so you have a better tasting brew without acid, but you still get any remaining alkaloids at the end in the final acid soak.

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8972 all about aya <3 ]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=51 Ayahuasca subforum]
* [[Ayahuasca using Syrian Rue & Acacia confusa]]

=== Whats the best smoking method? ===

The [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] gives some tips not only on vaporizing methods but other tips, check it out.

Different people preffer different methods. FORGET THE LIGHTBULB METHOD as it only works for a small percentage of people, most report problems.

-
==== '''Vaporgenie''' ====

A big number of people in the Nexus claim the vaporgenie to be the best vaporizing method by far! The vaporgenie is claimed to be significantly more effective as well as having a much smoother vapor than other smoking methods so if one is having trouble with harsh smoke or low effects, try the vaporgenie out. The Glass VaporGenie is recommended but otherwise the classic one will work perfectly fine.

The first thing if you're vaporizing pure DMT, is to get a [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=42867 ceramic disc] or a volcano liquid pad and cut it up to fit the vaporgenie, otherwise the DMT will melt through the screens, even if it's multiple screens. Check the vaporgenie thread linked below for more details

Begin with the flame a few cms above the top and adjust as you go. With empty lungs, start inhaling slowly and steady. The idea is to inhale a dense vapour, but not too dense so that you start coughing. Its better to begin the inhaling with a not so dense smoke, and then make it denser towards the end. Keep the vapor in the lungs for as long as possible, at least 10 seconds. If you coughed or exhaled before this or couldnt inhale with all the lungs, try keeping the flame further away or adjusting the speed of inhaling so that its a bit less dense.

Usually it takes anywhere between 1-3 hits, or anywhere between 25-50mg for a full breakthrough, if you got your technique right. A torch lighter is recommended, but a normal lighter will also work fine.

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=39961#post39961 VG VaporGenie: How to use, where to get, advantages, etc]

- If you cant or dont want to afford a vaporgenie, a good possibility is to make your own vaporization tool like:

===='''amorfati's Inspirator MKII'''====

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8985 Link to how to build/use the Inspirator mKII]

For a vaporization to be really effective, the DMT should be heated by convection (hot air), not conduction (hot glass/pipe/material), so vaporgenie and inspirator are recommended. If you dont want to use these methods, there are other possibilities which are less effective and risk burning DMT instead of just vaporizing, but it does work decently enough for many people:

===='''- Bong/leaf bed/enhanced leaf'''====

One method also considered successful by some is in a water bong (or plain bong), with a couple of metal screens, a thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on the bottom, then the dmt in the middle, and then another thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on top.
It is essential to go very easy on the fire, because too much heat will degrade DMT. Keep the lighter as far away as possible so that it still vaporizes but doesnt over-heat your DMT
50mg seems to be a good dose if one wants to really go inside the dmt dimension. Inhale slowly and deeply, holding in the lungs as much as possible (at least a few seconds), exhaling, and then taking a second, third one if possible, and even fourth one if one still can. Even if after the first there are already some effects, if one really wants to breakthrough, gotta keep going as much as one can.

Specifically for enhanced leaf check link below

====''' The Machine'''====

Check links below

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=39961#post39961 VG VaporGenie: How to use, where to get, advantages, etc]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6014 Helps and tips for smoking spice]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=280594 My version of the "Machine" - How to make it in <15 minutes]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6131 Ban the Bulb - Modify the Machine]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to enhanced leaf changa]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5633 Thoughts on using a VaporGenie]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6317 Troubles with The Machine]

=== I dont get any effects/light buzz only, what to do? ===

99% of the times, when people do not get effects, they are having a bad vaporization method, most likely burning the sspice. Try one of the methods above, and considering it is dmt and one smokes it right, it should work. Other possibility is that one has a very impure product with too much plant oils and so on. One can perform one or more recrystalizations to get a purer product that is easier to weight accurately and vaporize, and then try methods above.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=86732#post86732 Trouble Breaking Through???]

=== Fear going into a trip ===

If you're afraid of dark things coming from inside of you and are not willing to face them, you should not consume any psychedelics at all...

If you're afraid but willing to face them, then that's another thing.

And whether it's changa, pharma, or aya or vaporized DMT, it doesn't matter much, those dark things can come out with one or the other.

A low dosage may help, yes, and so can a proper set and setting, but this is no guarantee you won't be facing what you fear the most. It can, and most likely will happen at some point, whether now or after a certain number of experiences. Whenever we take psychedelics, it's as if we sign a contract saying we accept all those possibilities. So think well before signing, and if you do sign, make sure to get all the preparations right before the time come, take it in a proper context and to humbly accept whatever may come, take responsibility for it, and learn from it.

==== Link ====

*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=470491#post470491 Suddenly concerned]

=== Denied breakthrough / Dark DMT trips / Not good experiences anymore ? ===

It happens with several people that they feel they aren't getting good experiences anymore, that the trips are consistently of dark motifs, negative feelings, or that the breakthrough is denied, regardless of dosage. There isn't a ready answer for why this happens, but it seems a few factors may be related to it. In many cases, this happens when people are having a regular or excessive DMT use, or when they haven't been dedicating enough to their daily lives, to [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration integration] of the experiences. Also, it may have in some cases to do with the intentions one sets before vaporizing the DMT, and with how one's mind state and the context in general is.

So a few tips on how to deal with this issue:

1- Take a break! The DMT hyperspace will always be there, there is no rush to go right now! Stop your DMT usage (and maybe drug usage altogether), dedicate to daily life, live a balanced healthy life, eat well, exercise, study, work. Do not obsess about DMT, try to only come back once you feel you have really made enough effort in improving your daily life. At least a few months break is recommended.

2- If and once you do decide to try it again, make sure it is a good place and time for it. Take care with using in the best set and setting possible (look further down the FAQ for recommended setting).

3- Do not smoke it impulsively. Meditate or spend a few minutes in silence, concentrating, breathing deeply and slowly.

4- Set your intentions straight. Question yourself why you are doing this. Try to have the best intentions and reasons as possible.

5- Use a good smoking method such as the vaporgenie or others as recommended above.

6- If it still doesnt work out for you, take an even longer break (many months/years), and/or stop it altogether. Realize that maybe DMT is just not for you. Its not a problem to admit one's relationship with a substance is not working, in fact, it shows you're being humble and conscious.

==== Link ====

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration Health and Safety section: Integration]
* [http://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=169680#post169680 what happened to the bright side?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=13515 Vaporized DMT not having an effect in those who it has worked for previously]

=== What are the dosages for ... ? ===

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 Dosages and different forms of ingestion]

=== What is the best setting/context to consume spice? ===

Check [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] for some tips on setting, preparation and also integration

* A comfortable quiet place is generally recommended. If there are friends around they should be requested to remain quiet while someone is embarking on this experience and only start speaking once the explorer talks himself and allows others. Possibility of telefone ringing or street noises or other interruptions is definitely NOT recommended.
* The presence of music or not depends a lot on personal taste. Some prefer full silence to 'concentrate' more deeply and mention that any stimulus keeps them too grounded in usual reality, while others can have very deep interconnected experiences with certain music of their own preference (often being some kind of chill out/ambient/ethno ).
* Many people preffer full darkness or indirect lighting, but sunset or sunrise in a nice nature place (if safe) can also be marvelous.
* Obviously '''DO NOT''' have sharp objects around, smoke next to cliffs, driving etc...
* It is very rare, but it may happen that one feels nauseated and/or vomits, so specially first times or those doing alone, its also recommended to have a bucket nearby, and to sit comfortably, resting the back against something soft in a way that you wont slip or fall, such as an armchair, bed with backrest/pillows or comfortable sofa.
* While we are not aware of any deaths, it would be irresponsible to discount the possibility that blocking your airway while deep in hyperspace could prove fatal, so be in a position/place where you are safe even if not conscious of the surroundings. During traditional ayahuasca ceremonies participants sit on the floor or in a comfortable chair. We recommend sitting upright (slightly reclined for stability) comfortably because the launch is far more immediate and surprising with vaporised DMT. Think of it as your pilot seat- you wouldn't fly a plane any other way!
* If you do not have a sitter to take the pipe from you, be sure that you have a safe and easy place very near to put it down when you feel hyperspace approaching. You will not be inclined to move your hand very far, so we would recommend a fireproof shelf of sorts less than a foot away. Just smoking cigarettes in bed kills many people every year, and obviously the same dangers are relevent with DMT. We have heard one report of a member who returned from an unenjoyable trip to find that she had dropped the pipe onto her leg, resulting in a nasty burn.
* Prior meditation or at least focusing on intention and inner calm can be benefiting.
* Remember to let go, dont struggle. Its normal that the hearbeat accelerates in the come up. Some people fear they are dying or that they wont return, but dont worry FOR SURE you come back, as it has happened with everybody else. Some people feel that they lose their breath, but its just a feeling.. As long as the airway is not physically blocked, then dont worry our body has a built-in mechanism that prevents one from stopping breathing.
* Dont be scared, entities cant hurt you in real life if you dont believe it. Try to not make 'good/bad' judgements during the experience, dont resist!! Just go with the flow of the ride. Some images may appear positive, negative, incredible, impossible to describe, etc, but you are safe regardless of what comes.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5900 Favourite setting for smoking DMT]

=== What about other ingestion methods (intranasal, intrarectal, Atomizer/E-cig etc) ? ===

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods Ingestion Methods]

=== Can DMT be IVed? ===

It can, but we do not recommend it mainly for two reasons:

1- The only official research done with DMT by Rick Strassmann used FDA-approved ultra pure DMT fumarate. The quality of home extraction products is questionable, one may have solvent traces and other impurities that could be uncomfortable, painful or downright dangerous to inject.

2- The onset of the effects are so quick that one might not be able to take out the needle in time and accidentally ripping their vein out while in hyperspace, or putting it down too near and rolling around/puncturing oneself

IF one is gonna do it inspite of contrary recommendations, then please: Take care in making many purifying steps (several recrystallizations/washes) and making sure it has no solvent or other chemical traces in the final product (redissolving the recrystallized product in USP grade acetone or ethanol and re-evaporating, scrapping and letting it dry completely before converting to fumarates in a sterile solution, etc.). Check the first link below for tips on how to prepare for injection and safety proceedures

Also, for the first try, take at most 0.2mg/kg, preferably less. And VERY importantly, [[do NOT do it by yourself]], have a sitter that is experienced with needles inject for you and be there to make sure you are physically safe.

==== Links ====

* [http://www.hipforums.com/newforums/showpost.php?p=6347899&postcount=5 Entheogen Review article on safe injection proceedure]
* [http://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4128 iv dmt]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1521 IV DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3016 IV DMT?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=144148 Injecting DMT]
* [http://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=7450 FASA safe for injection?]

=== How can I estimate the amount of mimosa? ===

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=236540#post236540 Estimating mimosa amount]

== DMT/Plant storage ==

=== Does DMT go bad? ===

The main degradation product of dmt seems to be dmt n-oxide, which is also psychoactive. Some people enjoy and find qualitative difference in n-oxide compared to dmt. On the other hand, other people report negative experiences with old spice, but it is unknown how much is self-suggestion and how much is really true. The rate at which dmt converts to n-oxide logically depends on factors such as air exposure and temperature, but so far there havent been any quantitative tests to tell how fast it goes in a given condition.

In any case, n-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

Many people convert the freebase to dmt fumarate for storage, as its claimed to be a more stable salt.

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1553 DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=302112#post302112 DMT oxidation rate]

=== Does mimosa go bad? ===

Generally mimosa should not go bad even after months/years. If it looks fine and doesnt have some mutant fungus growing on it, its perfect :) There are reports of people using mimosa that was for many months or even years in a drawer without any significant problem (though as with anything, its always more prudent to store in dark, dry, cold place).

The main possible degradation is of dmt into dmt n-oxide. Dmt n-oxide is also psychoactive, but it is not soluble in naphtha, which may cause some people to get small yields when extracting from older bark. N-oxide is soluble in limonene/xylene/toluene/etc, so one could extract it with those solvents without loss of yield. Alternatively, N-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

For oral usage of mimosa, formation of n-oxide wouldnt really affect much as it will be water soluble so one will still get the effects when consuming the brew.

==== Links ====
* [[DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3570 How long should MHRB keep]

=== Whats the best way to store DMT? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

In any case, one can also convert to dmt fumarate which is a very stable salt form of dmt

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4482 Long-term storage]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4867 How to store DMT for longest]

=== Whats the best way to store Mimosa? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

Logically, bark in pieces will keep better than when powdered

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1488 Storing mimosa hostilis]

== DMT Allies ==

=== What is jungle spice ? ===

http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359543#post359543
Jungle Spice is the product resulting from an extraction of mimosa hostilis using a solvent more polar than naphtha (such as xylene, toluene, limonene, ether, DCM, etc). Sometimes people also call it JimJam, which was first called only for limonene extracted products, but analysis shown it to be equivalent to what is extracted with xylene. Chemical analysis has shown that both naphtha as well as xylene/limonene extract mostly DMT (around 90%), plus around or under 1% 2-methy-1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-beta-carboline (2MTHBC) and NMT. The psychoactivity of 2MTHBC is unknown at this point, and NMT does appear to be psychoactive, though a quarter of the potency of DMT. Appart from these mentioned alkaloids, Xylene, when evaporated, and both limonene or xylene, when salted with an acidic solution like vinegar or FASW, also yield around 0.2% MTHBC (tetrahydroharman), and what could be 1,2-dimethyl-tetrahydrobetacarboline or a yuremamine degradation product (as suggested by dozuki in the jungle spice analysis thread linked below). Very little to nothing is known about these two 'extra' beta-carbolines in junglespice/jimjam, if they are psychoactive or can potentiate DMT.

Some people claim jungle spice to be stronger or produce a different experience than pure DMT. This may be self-suggestion (people thinking it is stronger/different therefore feeling it), it may be that the inactive oils/impurities present in jungle spice somehow protect DMT from heat, making a more effective vaporization, and therefore feel stronger. It may also be that the beta carbolines together, have a synergistic effect with DMT making a stronger experience, or it may be that these beta carbolines would only really be noticeable if they were in a larger quantity as is the case with some Acacias. It may be a mixture of any or all of the above possibilities.

Only further testing (such as blind self-experiments and more analysis) will help us isolating the variables and answer the questions on junglespice's activity

For more information on jungle spice, check the links below

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1115 Jungle Spice]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=10553 Jungle Spice chemical analysis]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23544 Entheogenic effects of NMT]

=== What is changa / How to make changa ? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Changa Changa WIKI]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to DMT enhanced leaf (changa)] thread
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=27537 How does your changa looks like ?] thread

=== What type of caapi/ayahuasca vine should I use, what are the differences ? ===

Different ethnobotanical suppliers seem to stock different varieties of caapi. Often they use color names (for example black caapi, white caapi, etc), or other names used by local / mestizos / indigenous people (caupuri, ourinhos, etc). The problem is that there is no consensus regarding the classification of different caapi vines, so some indigenous people may recognize 2 types, in another tribe they may recognize 10 types, and so on. These types may overlap or they may even be in contradiction with each other. Also botanists would not necessarily agree with those types, as sometimes classification from indigenous people is not based on how a plant looks, but also on its effects, purpose, etc. In fact, some of what is sold as "black/red/whatever caapi" may even be of a different genus/species altogether (more discussion on this on links below)

There is an ongoing analysis project going on with different caapi/ayahuasca vines (link below), and it seems some caapis have very similar alkaloid/chemical component even if they have different names, while others may have quite different content even if they are named the same. The difference can be in ratio of alkaloids or total alkaloid yield, for example some black caapi from one vendor yielded over 2% alkaloids, a black caapi from another vendor yielded 0.5%.

Regarding the type/function/effects of different caapis, at this point any conclusions and generalizations are not possible. As an example, at times it's said that black caapi is used for more witchcraft kind of rituals by some shamans, but this doesnt mean that: a- that particular group is "correct", b-that other groups would agree with what they call "black caapi", c- That the black caapi you find is equivalent to that, d- that you cant use it for another purpose and have a great experience regardless.

It may be that there is a pattern between alkaloid content of different caapi vines (some may have more harmaline, or more THH, etc), but at this point we cannot yet say. Also even if a correctly identified subtype of caapi would have a specific alkaloid content, we would still have to make the assumption that the vendors are actually identifying correctly.

If you want to decide what type of caapi to get, one thing you could do is check the suppliers section and see if this specific caapi from the specific vendor has been reviewed, and dont believe in generalizations (all caapi "X" is strong and gives dark trips, all caapi "Y" is light and for beginners). Start with low dosage (10-20g) for the first time to gauge the strenght of this particular batch you have acquired, and then raise the dosage accordingly if necessary.

Another thing to do is to buy at least 2 different types and then take them in separate occasions, and then sharing the results with the community, and that way we all grow together.

Do check the links below as they have very relevant discussions regarding the different caapi types:

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29967 Caapi analysis thread]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32018 Poorly understood family of ayahuasca vines]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=30106 tetrapterys methystica (painted caapi) and other kinds of caapi]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=325495#post325495 Which caapi should I get ?]

== Plant sources ==

=== What are the best DMT-containing plants in my area ? ===

One good way to check what DMT plants you have around you is to look at the Nexus Wiki lists for [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT plants containing DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT] ) . Then use the search function of [http://www.discoverlife.org discoverlife page] or [http://bonap.org/genera-list.html bonap] to search the plants names and see in the species map if any of the good candidates grow near you, or alternatively, you can first identify the plants growing around you and search for their scientific name on the mentioned wiki lists.

If you don't find any plants growing around you, you can consider cultivating some ideal plants yourself, for example checking out the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=38229 Top Acacias To Grow Worldwide Thread] for the mid-long term, or getting known cuttings of phalaris with good alkaloid content such as AQ1 and big medicine (for more info check all the links in the first post of the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]) which can be harvested pretty quick

=== Does this plant contain DMT ? ===

Often people ask in the forum if the plant they have growing around them contains DMT. Then they might post pictures of the plants and expect an identification. Before that is done, the person asking needs to do some basic things:

1- Look up the information to know the plants that contain interesting alkaloids. The best resources are the Nexus wiki of plants containing [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT].

If it's an Acacia, read the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Acacia information thread] and if it's a Phalaris read the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]. Those threads contain information on seed suppliers, geographic location, season of harvest, conditions of growth and variation in alkaloid content, etc, which the person should become familiar with.

2-The person should try to identify the local plants based on the information in the above links. Posting picture of random plants without at least having some clue on what they could be, will only make everybody's life much harder. Look up images of suspected plants and compare, see in what they may differ.

3- Take detailed pictures of the different plant parts (overall plant, leaf close up front and back, seedpods and flower close ups if they are there). Often to differentiate between species the details are important, so blurry bad quality pictures or single pictures with no close ups or details of different plant parts are not enough.

4- Post your ID request in the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=358663#post358663 Acacia ID thread] if it's a suspected Acacia, or make a new thread if it's a differen't plant. Be sure to say what plant you think it is, and include information such as general geographic area, the detailed pics above, and any possible differences you may have seen with the plant you think it is.

5- If your plant gets identified and you plan on harvesting, please only harvest sustainably! Check [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=344487#post344487 this] post for more information

=== Links ===

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33512 Guide to Researching Psychoactive Plants: Resource List]'''

'''[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Containing_Plants WIKI -> DMT Containing Plants]'''

'''[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Botanicals WIKI -> Botanicals]'''

'''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=369566#post369566 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa ID stuff.zip]'''

'''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33648 Acacia Identification Thread]'''

'''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Trying to improve Acacia information]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia ID stuff.zip]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=34525 Phalaris/other grass types ID thread]'''

'''[http://www.erowid.org/plants/phalaris/phalaris_images.shtml Erowid.org -> Phalaris Grass Images]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=173732#post173732 help identifying Phalaris arundinacea]'''

'''[http://extension.entm.purdue.edu/caps/pestInfo/reedCanaryGrass.htm extension.entm.purdue.edu -> Reed Canary Grass]'''

.

== Reference ==
<references/>

Category:Botanicals

2014-05-13T02:09:03Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Plants */

= Plants =

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Containing_Plants WIKI -> DMT Containing Plants]

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Botanicals WIKI -> Botanicals]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=357670#post357670 Guide to Researching Psychoactive Plants: Resource List]

* [http://sharetheseeds.me/forum/index.php?topic=230.msg305#msg305 STS: Practical Resources for Plant ID and description]

* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mimosa_hostilis Mimosa Hostilis on Wikipedia]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa ID stuff]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=369566#post369566 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace]

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33648 Acacia Identification Thread]

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Trying to improve Acacia information]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia ID stuff.zip]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=34525 Phalaris/other grass types ID thread]

* [http://www.erowid.org/plants/phalaris/phalaris_images.shtml Erowid.org -> Phalaris Grass Images]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=173732#post173732 help identifying Phalaris arundinacea]

* [http://extension.entm.purdue.edu/caps/pestInfo/reedCanaryGrass.htm extension.entm.purdue.edu -> Reed Canary Grass]

== General species info ==

* [[Acacia spp.]]
* [[Phalaris spp.]]

== All Plants ==

* [[Acacia abbatiana]]
* [[Acacia abbreviata]]
* [[Acacia abrupta]]
* [[Acacia acanthaster]]
* [[Acacia acanthoclada]]
* [[Acacia acellerata]]
* [[Acacia acinacea]]
* [[Acacia aciphylla]]
* [[Acacia acoma]]
* [[Acacia acradenia]]
* [[Acacia acrionastes]]
* [[Acacia acuaria]]
* [[Acacia aculeatissima]]
* [[Acacia aculeiformis]]
* [[Acacia acuminata]]
* [[Acacia acutata]]
* [[Acacia adenogonia]]
* [[Acacia adinophylla]]
* [[Acacia adnata]]
* [[Acacia adoxa]]
* [[Acacia adsurgens]]
* [[Acacia adunca]]
* [[Acacia aemula]]
* [[Acacia aestivalis]]
* [[Acacia alata]]
* [[Acacia alaticaulis]]
* [[Acacia albida (Faidherbia albida)]]
* [[Acacia alcockii]]
* [[Acacia alexandri]]
* [[Acacia alleniana]]
* [[Acacia alpina]]
* [[Acacia amanda]]
* [[Acacia amblygona]]
* [[Acacia amblyophylla]]
* [[Acacia amentifera]]
* [[Acacia ammobia]]
* [[Acacia ammophila]]
* [[Acacia amoena]]
* [[Acacia ampliata]]
* [[Acacia ampliceps]]
* [[Acacia amyctica]]
* [[Acacia anasilla]]
* [[Acacia anastema]]
* [[Acacia anastomosa]]
* [[Acacia anaticeps]]
* [[Acacia anceps]]
* [[Acacia ancistrocarpa]]
* [[Acacia ancistrophylla]]
* [[Acacia andrewsii]]
* [[Acacia aneura]]
* [[Acacia anfractuosa]]
* [[Acacia angusta]]
* [[Acacia angustifolia]]
* [[Acacia angustissima]]
* [[Acacia anomala]]
* [[Acacia anserina]]
* [[Acacia anthochaera]]
* [[Acacia aphylla]]
* [[Acacia applanata]]
* [[Acacia aprepta]]
* [[Acacia aprica]]
* [[Acacia aptaneura]]
* [[Acacia arafurica]]
* [[Acacia araneosa]]
* [[Acacia arbiana]]
* [[Acacia arcuatilis]]
* [[Acacia areolata]]
* [[Acacia argentina]]
* [[Acacia argutifolia]]
* [[Acacia argyraea]]
* [[Acacia argyrodendron]]
* [[Acacia argyrophylla]]
* [[Acacia argyrotricha]]
* [[Acacia arida]]
* [[Acacia aristulata]]
* [[Acacia armillata]]
* [[Acacia armitii]]
* [[Acacia arrecta]]
* [[Acacia ascendens]]
* [[Acacia asepala]]
* [[Acacia ashbyae]]
* [[Acacia asparagoides]]
* [[Acacia aspera]]
* [[Acacia asperulacea]]
* [[Acacia assimilis]]
* [[Acacia ataxiphylla]]
* [[Acacia atkinsiana]]
* [[Acacia atopa]]
* [[Acacia atrox]]
* [[Acacia attenuata]]
* [[Acacia aulacocarpa]]
* [[Acacia aulacophylla]]
* [[Acacia auratiflora]]
* [[Acacia aureocrinita]]
* [[Acacia auricoma]]
* [[Acacia auriculiformis]]
* [[Acacia auripila]]
* [[Acacia auronitens]]
* [[Acacia ausfeldii]]
* [[Acacia awestoniana]]
* [[Acacia axillaris]]
* [[Acacia ayersiana]]

* [[Acacia baeuerlenii]]
* [[Acacia baileyana]]
* [[Acacia bakeri]]
* [[Acacia balsamea]]
* [[Acacia bancroftiorum]]
* [[Acacia barakulensis]]
* [[Acacia barattensis]]
* [[Acacia barbinervis]]
* [[Acacia barrettiorum]]
* [[Acacia barringtonensis]]
* [[Acacia bartlei]]
* [[Acacia basedowii]]
* [[Acacia baueri]]
* [[Acacia baxteri]]
* [[Acacia beadleana]]
* [[Acacia beauverdiana]]
* [[Acacia beckleri]]
* [[Acacia benthamii]]
* [[Acacia berlandieri]]
* [[Acacia betchei]]
* [[Acacia bidentata]]
* [[Acacia bifaria]]
* [[Acacia biflora]]
* [[Acacia binata]]
* [[Acacia binervata]]
* [[Acacia binervia]]
* [[Acacia bivenosa]]
* [[Acacia blakei]]
* [[Acacia blakelyi]]
* [[Acacia blaxellii]]
* [[Acacia blayana]]
* [[Acacia boormanii]]
* [[Acacia botrydion]]
* [[Acacia brachybotrya]]
* [[Acacia brachycarpa]]
* [[Acacia brachyclada]]
* [[Acacia brachyphylla]]
* [[Acacia brachypoda]]
* [[Acacia brachystachya]]
* [[Acacia bracteolata]]
* [[Acacia brassii]]
* [[Acacia brockii]]
* [[Acacia bromilowiana]]
* [[Acacia brownii]]
* [[Acacia brumalis]]
* [[Acacia brunioides]]
* [[Acacia bulgaensis]]
* [[Acacia burbidgeae]]
* [[Acacia burdekensis]]
* [[Acacia burkittii]]
* [[Acacia burrana]]
* [[Acacia burrowii]]
* [[Acacia burrowsiana]]
* [[Acacia buxifolia]]
* [[Acacia bynoeana]]

* [[Acacia caerulescens]]
* [[Acacia caesaneura]]
* [[Acacia caesariata]]
* [[Acacia caesiella]]
* [[Acacia calamifolia]]
* [[Acacia calantha]]
* [[Acacia calcarata]]
* [[Acacia calcicola]]
* [[Acacia calligera]]
* [[Acacia calyculata]]
* [[Acacia cambagei]]
* [[Acacia camptocarpa]]
* [[Acacia camptoclada]]
* [[Acacia campylophylla]]
* [[Acacia cana]]
* [[Acacia cangaiensis]]
* [[Acacia capillaris]]
* [[Acacia cardiophylla]]
* [[Acacia carens]]
* [[Acacia carneorum]]
* [[Acacia carnosula]]
* [[Acacia caroleae]]
* [[Acacia cassicula]]
* [[Acacia castanostegia]]
* [[Acacia cataractae]]
* [[Acacia catechu]]
* [[Acacia catenulata]]
* [[Acacia cavealis]]
* [[Acacia caven]]
* [[Acacia cedroides]]
* [[Acacia celastrifolia]]
* [[Acacia celsa]]
* [[Acacia centrinervia]]
* [[Acacia cerastes]]
* [[Acacia chalkeri]]
* [[Acacia chamaeleon]]
* [[Acacia chapmanii]]
* [[Acacia chartacea]]
* [[Acacia cheelii]]
* [[Acacia chinchillensis]]
* [[Acacia chippendalei]]
* [[Acacia chisholmii]]
* [[Acacia chrysella]]
* [[Acacia chrysocephala]]
* [[Acacia chrysochaeta]]
* [[Acacia chrysopoda]]
* [[Acacia chrysotricha]]
* [[Acacia cincinnata]]
* [[Acacia citrinoviridis]]
* [[Acacia clandullensis]]
* [[Acacia claviseta]]
* [[Acacia clelandii]]
* [[Acacia clunies-rossiae]]
* [[Acacia clydonophora]]
* [[Acacia cochlearis]]
* [[Acacia cochlocarpa]]
* [[Acacia cockertoniana]]
* [[Acacia cognata]]
* [[Acacia colei]]
* [[Acacia colletioides]]
* [[Acacia comans]]
* [[Acacia complanata]]
* [[Acacia concolorans]]
* [[Acacia concurrens]]
* [[Acacia conferta]]
* [[Acacia confluens]]
* [[Acacia confusa]]
* [[Acacia congesta]]
* [[Acacia conjunctifolia]]
* [[Acacia conniana]]
* [[Acacia consanguinea]]
* [[Acacia consobrina]]
* [[Acacia conspersa]]
* [[Acacia constablei]]
* [[Acacia constricta]]
* [[Acacia continua]]
* [[Acacia convallium]]
* [[Acacia coolgardiensis]]
* [[Acacia coriacea]]
* [[Acacia cornigera]]
* [[Acacia costata]]
* [[Acacia costiniana]]
* [[Acacia courtii]]
* [[Acacia covenyi]]
* [[Acacia cowaniana]]
* [[Acacia cowleana]]
* [[Acacia cracentis]]
* [[Acacia craspedocarpa]]
* [[Acacia crassa]]
* [[Acacia crassicarpa]]
* [[Acacia crassistipula]]
* [[Acacia crassiuscula]]
* [[Acacia crassuloides]]
* [[Acacia cremiflora]]
* [[Acacia crenulata]]
* [[Acacia cretacea]]
* [[Acacia cretata]]
* [[Acacia crispula]]
* [[Acacia crombiei]]
* [[Acacia cultriformis]]
* [[Acacia cummingiana]]
* [[Acacia cuneifolia]]
* [[Acacia cupularis]]
* [[Acacia curranii]]
* [[Acacia curvata]]
* [[Acacia cuspidifolia]]
* [[Acacia cuthbertsonii]]
* [[Acacia cyclocarpa]]
* [[Acacia cyclops]]
* [[Acacia cylindrica]]
* [[Acacia cyperophylla]]

* [[Acacia dacrydioides]]
* [[Acacia dallachiana]]
* [[Acacia dangarensis]]
* [[Acacia daphnifolia]]
* [[Acacia daviesii]]
* [[Acacia daviesioides]]
* [[Acacia dawsonii]]
* [[Acacia dealbata]]
* [[Acacia deanei]]
* [[Acacia debilis]]
* [[Acacia declinata]]
* [[Acacia decora]]
* [[Acacia decurrens]]
* [[Acacia deficiens]]
* [[Acacia deflexa]]
* [[Acacia delibrata]]
* [[Acacia delicatula]]
* [[Acacia delphina]]
* [[Acacia deltoidea]]
* [[Acacia demissa]]
* [[Acacia dempsteri]]
* [[Acacia densiflora]]
* [[Acacia denticulosa]]
* [[Acacia dentifera]]
* [[Acacia depressa]]
* [[Acacia dermatophylla]]
* [[Acacia derwentiana]]
* [[Acacia desertorum]]
* [[Acacia desmondii]]
* [[Acacia deuteroneura]]
* [[Acacia diallaga]]
* [[Acacia diaphana]]
* [[Acacia diaphyllodinea]]
* [[Acacia diastemata]]
* [[Acacia dictyocarpa]]
* [[Acacia dictyoneura]]
* [[Acacia dictyophleba]]
* [[Acacia didyma]]
* [[Acacia dielsii]]
* [[Acacia dietrichiana]]
* [[Acacia difficilis]]
* [[Acacia difformis]]
* [[Acacia dilatata]]
* [[Acacia dimidiata]]
* [[Acacia diminuta]]
* [[Acacia dimorpha]]
* [[Acacia disparrima]]
* [[Acacia dissimilis]]
* [[Acacia dissona]]
* [[Acacia distans]]
* [[Acacia disticha]]
* [[Acacia divergens]]
* [[Acacia dodonaeifolia]]
* [[Acacia dolichophylla]]
* [[Acacia donaldsonii]]
* [[Acacia doratoxylon]]
* [[Acacia dorothea]]
* [[Acacia dorsenna]]
* [[Acacia drepanocarpa]]
* [[Acacia drepanophylla]]
* [[Acacia dunnii]]
* [[Acacia dura]]
* [[Acacia durabilis]]
* [[Acacia duriuscula]]

* [[Acacia echinula]]
* [[Acacia echinuliflora]]
* [[Acacia effusa]]
* [[Acacia effusifolia]]
* [[Acacia elachantha]]
* [[Acacia elata]]
* [[Acacia elongata]]
* [[Acacia enervia]]
* [[Acacia ensifolia]]
* [[Acacia enterocarpa]]
* [[Acacia epedunculata]]
* [[Acacia ephedroides]]
* [[Acacia equisetifolia]]
* [[Acacia eremaea]]
* [[Acacia eremophila]]
* [[Acacia eremophiloides]]
* [[Acacia ericifolia]]
* [[Acacia ericksoniae]]
* [[Acacia erinacea]]
* [[Acacia erioclada]]
* [[Acacia eriopoda]]
* [[Acacia errabunda]]
* [[Acacia estrophiolata]]
* [[Acacia euthycarpa]]
* [[Acacia euthyphylla]]
* [[Acacia evenulosa]]
* [[Acacia everistii]]
* [[Acacia excelsa]]
* [[Acacia excentrica]]
* [[Acacia exilis]]
* [[Acacia exocarpoides]]
* [[Acacia extensa]]
* [[Acacia exudans]]

* [[Acacia falcata]]
* [[Acacia falciformis]]
* [[Acacia farinosa]]
* [[Acacia fasciculifera]]
* [[Acacia faucium]]
* [[Acacia fauntleroyi]]
* [[Acacia fecunda]]
* [[Acacia ferocior]]
* [[Acacia filamentosa]]
* [[Acacia filicifolia]]
* [[Acacia filifolia]]
* [[Acacia filipes]]
* [[Acacia fimbriata]]
* [[Acacia flabellifolia]]
* [[Acacia flagelliformis]]
* [[Acacia flavescens]]
* [[Acacia flavipila]]
* [[Acacia fleckeri]]
* [[Acacia flexifolia]]
* [[Acacia flocktoniae]]
* [[Acacia floribunda]]
* [[Acacia floydii]]
* [[Acacia fodinalis]]
* [[Acacia formidabilis]]
* [[Acacia forrestiana]]
* [[Acacia forsythii]]
* [[Acacia fragilis]]
* [[Acacia frigescens]]
* [[Acacia froggattii]]
* [[Acacia fulva]]
* [[Acacia fuscaneura]]

* [[Acacia galeata]]
* [[Acacia galioides]]
* [[Acacia gardneri]]
* [[Acacia gelasina]]
* [[Acacia gemina]]
* [[Acacia genistifolia]]
* [[Acacia georgensis]]
* [[Acacia georginae]]
* [[Acacia gibbosa]]
* [[Acacia gibsonii]]
* [[Acacia gilesiana]]
* [[Acacia gillii]]
* [[Acacia gittinsii]]
* [[Acacia gladiiformis]]
* [[Acacia glandulicarpa]]
* [[Acacia glaucissima]]
* [[Acacia glaucocaesia]]
* [[Acacia glaucocarpa]]
* [[Acacia glaucoptera]]
* [[Acacia gloeotricha]]
* [[Acacia glutinosissima]]
* [[Acacia gnidium]]
* [[Acacia gonocarpa]]
* [[Acacia gonoclada]]
* [[Acacia gonophylla]]
* [[Acacia gordonii]]
* [[Acacia gracilenta]]
* [[Acacia gracilifolia]]
* [[Acacia graciliformis]]
* [[Acacia gracillima]]
* [[Acacia grandifolia]]
* [[Acacia graniticola]]
* [[Acacia grasbyi]]
* [[Acacia gregorii]]
* [[Acacia gunnii]]
* [[Acacia guymeri]]

* [[Acacia hadrophylla]]
* [[Acacia hakeoides]]
* [[Acacia halliana]]
* [[Acacia hamersleyensis]]
* [[Acacia hamiltoniana]]
* [[Acacia hammondii]]
* [[Acacia handonis]]
* [[Acacia harpophylla]]
* [[Acacia harveyi]]
* [[Acacia hastulata]]
* [[Acacia havilandiorum]]
* [[Acacia helicophylla]]
* [[Acacia helmsiana]]
* [[Acacia hemignosta]]
* [[Acacia hemiteles]]
* [[Acacia hemsleyi]]
* [[Acacia hendersonii]]
* [[Acacia heterochroa]]
* [[Acacia heteroclita]]
* [[Acacia heteroneura]]
* [[Acacia heterophylla]]
* [[Acacia hexaneura]]
* [[Acacia hilliana]]
* [[Acacia hippuroides]]
* [[Acacia hispidula]]
* [[Acacia hockingsii]]
* [[Acacia holosericea]]
* [[Acacia holotricha]]
* [[Acacia homaloclada]]
* [[Acacia homalophylla]]
* [[Acacia hopperiana]]
* [[Acacia horridula]]
* [[Acacia howittii]]
* [[Acacia hubbardiana]]
* [[Acacia huegelii]]
* [[Acacia humifusa]]
* [[Acacia hyaloneura]]
* [[Acacia hylonoma]]
* [[Acacia hypermeces]]
* [[Acacia hystrix]]

* [[Acacia idiomorpha]]
* [[Acacia imbricata]]
* [[Acacia imitans]]
* [[Acacia imparilis]]
* [[Acacia implexa]]
* [[Acacia improcera]]
* [[Acacia inaequilatera]]
* [[Acacia inaequiloba]]
* [[Acacia inamabilis]]
* [[Acacia incanicarpa]]
* [[Acacia inceana]]
* [[Acacia incognita]]
* [[Acacia incongesta]]
* [[Acacia incrassata]]
* [[Acacia incurva]]
* [[Acacia incurvaneura]]
* [[Acacia infecunda]]
* [[Acacia ingramii]]
* [[Acacia ingrata]]
* [[Acacia inophloia]]
* [[Acacia inops]]
* [[Acacia insolita]]
* [[Acacia intorta]]
* [[Acacia intricata]]
* [[Acacia irrorata]]
* [[Acacia islana]]
* [[Acacia isoneura]]
* [[Acacia iteaphylla]]
* [[Acacia ixiophylla]]
* [[Acacia ixodes]]

* [[Acacia jackesiana]]
* [[Acacia jacksonioides]]
* [[Acacia jamesiana]]
* [[Acacia jasperensis]]
* [[Acacia jennerae]]
* [[Acacia jensenii]]
* [[Acacia jibberdingensis]]
* [[Acacia johannis]]
* [[Acacia johnsonii]]
* [[Acacia jonesii]]
* [[Acacia jucunda]]
* [[Acacia julifera]]
* [[Acacia juncifolia]]

* [[Acacia kalgoorliensis]]
* [[Acacia karina]]
* [[Acacia kauaiensis]]
* [[Acacia kelleri]]
* [[Acacia kempeana]]
* [[Acacia kenneallyi]]
* [[Acacia kerryana]]
* [[Acacia kettlewelliae]]
* [[Acacia kimberleyensis]]
* [[Acacia kingiana]]
* [[Acacia koa]]
* [[Acacia koaia]]
* [[Acacia kochii]]
* [[Acacia kulnurensis]]
* [[Acacia kybeanensis]]
* [[Acacia kydrensis]]

* [[Acacia laccata]]
* [[Acacia lacertensis]]
* [[Acacia lachnophylla]]
* [[Acacia laeta]]
* [[Acacia lamprocarpa]]
* [[Acacia lanceolata]]
* [[Acacia lanei]]
* [[Acacia lanigera]]
* [[Acacia lanuginophylla]]
* [[Acacia laricina]]
* [[Acacia lasiocalyx]]
* [[Acacia latescens]]
* [[Acacia latifolia]]
* [[Acacia latior]]
* [[Acacia latipes]]
* [[Acacia latisepala]]
* [[Acacia latzii]]
* [[Acacia lauta]]
* [[Acacia lazaridis]]
* [[Acacia leeuweniana]]
* [[Acacia legnota]]
* [[Acacia leichhardtii]]
* [[Acacia leiocalyx]]
* [[Acacia leiophylla]]
* [[Acacia lentiginea]]
* [[Acacia leprosa]]
* [[Acacia leptalea]]
* [[Acacia leptocarpa]]
* [[Acacia leptoclada]]
* [[Acacia leptoloba]]
* [[Acacia leptoneura]]
* [[Acacia leptopetala]]
* [[Acacia leptophleba]]
* [[Acacia leptospermoides]]
* [[Acacia leptostachya]]
* [[Acacia leucoclada]]
* [[Acacia leucolobia]]
* [[Acacia levata]]
* [[Acacia ligulata]]
* [[Acacia ligustrina]]
* [[Acacia limbata]]
* [[Acacia linarioides]]
* [[Acacia linearifolia]]
* [[Acacia lineata]]
* [[Acacia lineolata]]
* [[Acacia linifolia]]
* [[Acacia linophylla]]
* [[Acacia lirellata]]
* [[Acacia littorea]]
* [[Acacia lobulata]]
* [[Acacia loderi]]
* [[Acacia longifolia]]
* [[Acacia longifolia var. sophorae]]
* [[Acacia longipedunculata]]
* [[Acacia longiphyllodinea]]
* [[Acacia longispicata]]
* [[Acacia longispinea]]
* [[Acacia longissima]]
* [[Acacia loroloba]]
* [[Acacia loxophylla]]
* [[Acacia lucasii]]
* [[Acacia lullfitziorum]]
* [[Acacia lumholtzii]]
* [[Acacia lunata]]
* [[Acacia lycopodiifolia]]
* [[Acacia lysiphloia]]

* [[Acacia mabellae]]
* [[Acacia macdonnelliensis]]
* [[Acacia mackeyana]]
* [[Acacia macnuttiana]]
* [[Acacia maconochieana]]
* [[Acacia macradenia]]
* [[Acacia macraneura]]
* [[Acacia maidenii]]
* [[Acacia maitlandii]]
* [[Acacia malloclada]]
* [[Acacia mangium]]
* [[Acacia manipularis]]
* [[Acacia maranoensis]]
* [[Acacia mariae]]
* [[Acacia marramamba]]
* [[Acacia masliniana]]
* [[Acacia mathuataensis]]
* [[Acacia matthewii]]
* [[Acacia maxwellii]]
* [[Acacia mearnsii]]
* [[Acacia megalantha]]
* [[Acacia meiantha]]
* [[Acacia meiosperma]]
* [[Acacia meisneri]]
* [[Acacia melanoxylon]]
* [[Acacia melleodora]]
* [[Acacia mellifera]]
* [[Acacia melvillei]]
* [[Acacia menzelii]]
* [[Acacia merinthophora]]
* [[Acacia merrallii]]
* [[Acacia merrickiae]]
* [[Acacia microbotrya]]
* [[Acacia microcalyx]]
* [[Acacia microcarpa]]
* [[Acacia microcybe]]
* [[Acacia microneura]]
* [[Acacia microsperma]]
* [[Acacia midgleyi]]
* [[Acacia mimica]]
* [[Acacia mimula]]
* [[Acacia minutifolia]]
* [[Acacia minutissima]]
* [[Acacia minyura]]
* [[Acacia mitchellii]]
* [[Acacia mitodes]]
* [[Acacia mollifolia]]
* [[Acacia montana]]
* [[Acacia monticola]]
* [[Acacia mooreana]]
* [[Acacia mountfordiae]]
* [[Acacia mucronata]]
* [[Acacia muelleriana]]
* [[Acacia mulganeura]]
* [[Acacia multisiliqua]]
* [[Acacia multispicata]]
* [[Acacia multistipulosa]]
* [[Acacia muriculata]]
* [[Acacia murrayana]]
* [[Acacia mutabilis]]
* [[Acacia myrtifolia]]

* [[Acacia nana]]
* [[Acacia nanodealbata]]
* [[Acacia nanopravissima]]
* [[Acacia nematophylla]]
* [[Acacia neriifolia]]
* [[Acacia nervosa]]
* [[Acacia nesophila]]
* [[Acacia neurocarpa]]
* [[Acacia neurophylla]]
* [[Acacia newmanii]]
* [[Acacia nigripilosa]]
* [[Acacia nilotica]]
* [[Acacia nitidula]]
* [[Acacia nivea]]
* [[Acacia nodiflora]]
* [[Acacia notabilis]]
* [[Acacia nova-anglica]]
* [[Acacia nubica]]
* [[Acacia nuperrima]]
* [[Acacia nyssophylla]]

* [[Acacia obesa]]
* [[Acacia obliquinervia]]
* [[Acacia obovata]]
* [[Acacia obtecta]]
* [[Acacia obtriangularis]]
* [[Acacia obtusata]]
* [[Acacia obtusifolia]]
* [[Acacia octonervia]]
* [[Acacia oerfota]]
* [[Acacia oldfieldii]]
* [[Acacia olgana]]
* [[Acacia oligoneura]]
* [[Acacia olsenii]]
* [[Acacia ommatosperma]]
* [[Acacia oncinocarpa]]
* [[Acacia oncinophylla]]
* [[Acacia ophiolithica]]
* [[Acacia oraria]]
* [[Acacia orbifolia]]
* [[Acacia orites]]
* [[Acacia orthocarpa]]
* [[Acacia orthotricha]]
* [[Acacia orthotropica]]
* [[Acacia oshanesii]]
* [[Acacia oswaldii]]
* [[Acacia oxycedrus]]
* [[Acacia oxycedrus x sophorae]]
* [[Acacia oxyclada]]

* [[Acacia pachyacra]]
* [[Acacia pachycarpa]]
* [[Acacia pachyphylla]]
* [[Acacia pachypoda]]
* [[Acacia palustris]]
* [[Acacia papulosa]]
* [[Acacia papyrocarpa]]
* [[Acacia paradoxa]]
* [[Acacia paraneura]]
* [[Acacia parramattensis]]
* [[Acacia parvipinnula]]
* [[Acacia pataczekii]]
* [[Acacia patagiata]]
* [[Acacia paula]]
* [[Acacia pedina]]
* [[Acacia pedleyi]]
* [[Acacia pellita]]
* [[Acacia pelophila]]
* [[Acacia pendula]]
* [[Acacia penninervis]]
* [[Acacia perangusta]]
* [[Acacia peregrinalis]]
* [[Acacia perpusilla]]
* [[Acacia perryi]]
* [[Acacia petraea]]
* [[Acacia peuce]]
* [[Acacia phacelia]]
* [[Acacia phaeocalyx]]
* [[Acacia pharangites]]
* [[Acacia phasmoides]]
* [[Acacia phlebocarpa]]
* [[Acacia phlebopetala]]
* [[Acacia phlebophylla]]
* [[Acacia pickardii]]
* [[Acacia piligera]]
* [[Acacia pilligaensis]]
* [[Acacia pinguiculosa]]
* [[Acacia pinguifolia]]
* [[Acacia platycarpa]]
* [[Acacia plautella]]
* [[Acacia plectocarpa]]
* [[Acacia podalyriifolia]]
* [[Acacia polifolia]]
* [[Acacia poliochroa]]
* [[Acacia polyacantha]]
* [[Acacia polyadenia]]
* [[Acacia polybotrya]]
* [[Acacia polystachya]]
* [[Acacia porcata]]
* [[Acacia praelongata]]
* [[Acacia praemorsa]]
* [[Acacia praetermissa]]
* [[Acacia prainii]]
* [[Acacia pravifolia]]
* [[Acacia pravissima]]
* [[Acacia prismifolia]]
* [[Acacia pritzeliana]]
* [[Acacia producta]]
* [[Acacia profusa]]
* [[Acacia proiantha]]
* [[Acacia prolata]]
* [[Acacia prominens]]
* [[Acacia provincialis]]
* [[Acacia pruinocarpa]]
* [[Acacia pruinosa]]
* [[Acacia pteraneura]]
* [[Acacia pterocaulon]]
* [[Acacia ptychoclada]]
* [[Acacia ptychophylla]]
* [[Acacia pubescens]]
* [[Acacia pubicosta]]
* [[Acacia pubifolia]]
* [[Acacia pubirhachis]]
* [[Acacia pulviniformis]]
* [[Acacia puncticulata]]
* [[Acacia purpureopetala]]
* [[Acacia pusilla]]
* [[Acacia pustula]]
* [[Acacia pycnantha]]
* [[Acacia pycnocephala]]
* [[Acacia pycnostachya]]
* [[Acacia pygmaea]]
* [[Acacia pyrifolia]]

* [[Acacia quadrilateralis]]
* [[Acacia quadrimarginea]]
* [[Acacia quadrisulcata]]
* [[Acacia quinquenervia]]
* [[Acacia quornensis]]

* [[Acacia racospermoides]]
* [[Acacia ramiflora]]
* [[Acacia ramulosa]]
* [[Acacia recurvata]]
* [[Acacia redolens]]
* [[Acacia rendlei]]
* [[Acacia repanda]]
* [[Acacia repens]]
* [[Acacia resinicostata]]
* [[Acacia resinimarginea]]
* [[Acacia resinistipulea]]
* [[Acacia resinosa]]
* [[Acacia restiacea]]
* [[Acacia retinervis]]
* [[Acacia retinodes]]
* [[Acacia retivenea]]
* [[Acacia retrorsa]]
* [[Acacia rhamphophylla]]
* [[Acacia rhetinocarpa]]
* [[Acacia rhigiophylla]]
* [[Acacia rhodophloia]]
* [[Acacia rhodoxylon]]
* [[Acacia riceana]]
* [[Acacia richardsii]]
* [[Acacia richii]]
* [[Acacia ridleyana]]
* [[Acacia rigens]]
* [[Acacia rigescens]]
* [[Acacia rigida]]
* [[Acacia rigidula]]
* [[Acacia rivalis]]
* [[Acacia robeorum]]
* [[Acacia robiniae]]
* [[Acacia rossei]]
* [[Acacia rostellata]]
* [[Acacia rostellifera]]
* [[Acacia rostriformis]]
* [[Acacia rothii]]
* [[Acacia roycei]]
* [[Acacia rubida]]
* [[Acacia rubricaulis]]
* [[Acacia rubricola]]
* [[Acacia rupicola]]
* [[Acacia ruppii]]
* [[Acacia ryaniana]]

* [[Acacia sabulosa]]
* [[Acacia saliciformis]]
* [[Acacia salicina]]
* [[Acacia saligna]]
* [[Acacia saxatilis]]
* [[Acacia saxicola]]
* [[Acacia scabra]]
* [[Acacia scalena]]
* [[Acacia scalpelliformis]]
* [[Acacia schinoides]]
* [[Acacia sciophanes]]
* [[Acacia scirpifolia]]
* [[Acacia scleroclada]]
* [[Acacia sclerophylla]]
* [[Acacia sclerosperma]]
* [[Acacia scopulorum]]
* [[Acacia seclusa]]
* [[Acacia sedifolia]]
* [[Acacia semiaurea]]
* [[Acacia semibinervia]]
* [[Acacia semicircinalis]]
* [[Acacia semilunata]]
* [[Acacia semirigida]]
* [[Acacia semitrullata]]
* [[Acacia senegal]]
* [[Acacia sericata]]
* [[Acacia sericocarpa]]
* [[Acacia sericoflora]]
* [[Acacia sericophylla]]
* [[Acacia serpentinicola]]
* [[Acacia sertiformis]]
* [[Acacia sessilis]]
* [[Acacia sessilispica]]
* [[Acacia setulifera]]
* [[Acacia shirleyi]]
* [[Acacia shuttleworthii]]
* [[Acacia sibilans]]
* [[Acacia sibina]]
* [[Acacia sibirica]]
* [[Acacia siculiformis]]
* [[Acacia sieberiana]]
* [[Acacia signata]]
* [[Acacia silvestris]]
* [[Acacia simplicifolia]]
* [[Acacia simmonsiana]]
* [[Acacia simsii]]
* [[Acacia simulans]]
* [[Acacia singula]]
* [[Acacia smeringa]]
* [[Acacia solenota]]
* [[Acacia sorophylla]]
* [[Acacia spania]]
* [[Acacia sparsiflora]]
* [[Acacia spathulifolia]]
* [[Acacia speckii]]
* [[Acacia spectabilis]]
* [[Acacia spectra]]
* [[Acacia sphacelata]]
* [[Acacia sphenophylla]]
* [[Acacia spilleriana]]
* [[Acacia spinescens]]
* [[Acacia spinosissima]]
* [[Acacia spirorbis]]
* [[Acacia splendens]]
* [[Acacia spondylophylla]]
* [[Acacia spongolitica]]
* [[Acacia spooneri]]
* [[Acacia sporadica]]
* [[Acacia squamata]]
* [[Acacia stanleyi]]
* [[Acacia startii]]
* [[Acacia steedmanii]]
* [[Acacia stellaticeps]]
* [[Acacia stenophylla]]
* [[Acacia stenoptera]]
* [[Acacia stereophylla]]
* [[Acacia stictophylla]]
* [[Acacia stigmatophylla]]
* [[Acacia stipuligera]]
* [[Acacia stipulosa]]
* [[Acacia storyi]]
* [[Acacia striatifolia]]
* [[Acacia stricta]]
* [[Acacia strongylophylla]]
* [[Acacia suaveolens]]
* [[Acacia subcaerulea]]
* [[Acacia subcontorta]]
* [[Acacia subflexuosa]]
* [[Acacia sublanata]]
* [[Acacia subporosa]]
* [[Acacia subrigida]]
* [[Acacia subsessilis]]
* [[Acacia subternata]]
* [[Acacia subtessarogona]]
* [[Acacia subtiliformis]]
* [[Acacia subtilinervis]]
* [[Acacia subulata]]
* [[Acacia sulcata]]
* [[Acacia sulcaticaulis]]
* [[Acacia symonii]]
* [[Acacia synantha]]
* [[Acacia synchronicia]]
* [[Acacia synoria]]

* [[Acacia tabula]]
* [[Acacia tarculensis]]
* [[Acacia telmica]]
* [[Acacia tenuinervis]]
* [[Acacia tenuior]]
* [[Acacia tenuispica]]
* [[Acacia tenuissima]]
* [[Acacia tephrina]]
* [[Acacia teretifolia]]
* [[Acacia terminalis]]
* [[Acacia tessellata]]
* [[Acacia tetanophylla]]
* [[Acacia tetragonocarpa]]
* [[Acacia tetragonophylla]]
* [[Acacia tetraneura]]
* [[Acacia tetraptera]]
* [[Acacia thoma]]
* [[Acacia thomsonii]]
* [[Acacia tindaleae]]
* [[Acacia tingoorensis]]
* [[Acacia tolmerensis]]
* [[Acacia toondulya]]
* [[Acacia torringtonensis]]
* [[Acacia torticarpa]]
* [[Acacia tortilis]]
* [[Acacia torulosa]]
* [[Acacia trachycarpa]]
* [[Acacia trachyphloia]]
* [[Acacia translucens]]
* [[Acacia tratmaniana]]
* [[Acacia trigonophylla]]
* [[Acacia trinalis]]
* [[Acacia trinervata]]
* [[Acacia trineura]]
* [[Acacia triptera]]
* [[Acacia triptycha]]
* [[Acacia triquetra]]
* [[Acacia tropica]]
* [[Acacia truculenta]]
* [[Acacia trudgeniana]]
* [[Acacia trulliformis]]
* [[Acacia truncata]]
* [[Acacia tuberculata]]
* [[Acacia tumida]]
* [[Acacia tysonii]]

* [[Acacia ulicifolia]]
* [[Acacia ulicina]]
* [[Acacia uliginosa]]
* [[Acacia umbellata]]
* [[Acacia umbraculiformis]]
* [[Acacia uncifera]]
* [[Acacia uncifolia]]
* [[Acacia uncinata]]
* [[Acacia uncinella]]
* [[Acacia undoolyana]]
* [[Acacia undosa]]
* [[Acacia undulifolia]]
* [[Acacia unguicula]]
* [[Acacia unifissilis]]
* [[Acacia urophylla]]

* [[Acacia validinervia]]
* [[Acacia vassalii]]
* [[Acacia venulosa]]
* [[Acacia verniciflua]]
* [[Acacia veronica]]
* [[Acacia verricula]]
* [[Acacia verticillata]]
* [[Acacia vestita]]
* [[Acacia victoriae]]
* [[Acacia vincentii]]
* [[Acacia viscidula]]
* [[Acacia viscifolia]]
* [[Acacia vittata]]
* [[Acacia volubilis]]

* [[Acacia walkeri]]
* [[Acacia wanyu]]
* [[Acacia wardellii]]
* [[Acacia warramaba]]
* [[Acacia wattsiana]]
* [[Acacia webbii]]
* [[Acacia websteri]]
* [[Acacia wetarensis]]
* [[Acacia whibleyana]]
* [[Acacia whitei]]
* [[Acacia wickhamii]]
* [[Acacia wilcoxii]]
* [[Acacia wilhelmiana]]
* [[Acacia willdenowiana]]
* [[Acacia williamsiana]]
* [[Acacia williamsonii]]
* [[Acacia willingii]]
* [[Acacia wilsonii]]
* [[Acacia wiseana]]
* [[Acacia woodmaniorum]]

* [[Acacia xanthina]]
* [[Acacia xanthocarpa]]
* [[Acacia xanthophloea]]
* [[Acacia xerophila]]
* [[Acacia xiphophylla]]

* [[Acacia yirrkallensis]]
* [[Acacia yorkrakinensis]]

* [[Acacia zatrichota]]

* [[Anadenanthera colubrina]]
* [[Anadenanthera excelsa]]
* [[Anadenanthera macrocarpa]]
* [[Anadenanthera peregrina]]
* [[Anthirhea lucida]]
* [[Arundo donax]]
* [[Banisteriopsis caapi]] (Caapi, Ayahuasca)
* [[Brugmansia spp]]
* [[Datura spp.]]
* [[Delosperma acuminatum]]
* [[Delosperma cooperi]]
* [[Delosperma ecklonis]]
* [[Delosperma esterhuyseniae]]
* [[Delosperma harazianum]]
* [[Delosperma hirtum]]
* [[Delosperma klinghardiana]]
* [[Delosperma lydenbergense]]
* [[Delosperma pageanum]]
* [[Delosperma pargamentaceum]]
* [[Delosperma tradescantioides]]
* [[Desmanthus illinoensis]]
* [[Desmanthus leptolobus]]
* [[Desmanthus velutinus]]
* [[Desmodium caudatum]]
* [[Desmodium gangeticum]]
* [[Desmodium gyrans]]
* [[Desmodium pulchellum]]
* [[Desmodium triflorum]]
* [[Diplopterys cabrerana]] (Chaliponga)
* [[Evodia rutaecarpa]]
* [[Justicia pectoralis]]
* [[Lespedeza bicolor]]
* [[Limona acidissima]
* [[Lophophora Williamsii]] (Peyote)
* [[Mimosa hostilis]]
* [[Mimosa ophthalmocentra]]
* [[Mimosa scabrella]
* [[Mimosa verrucosa]]
* [[Mucuna pruriens]]
* [[Osteophloem platyspermum]]
* [[Pandanus utilis]]
* [[Pandanus odoratissima]]
* [[Petalostylis labicheoides]]
* [[Phalaris aquatica]]
* [[Phalaris arundinacea]] (Reed canary grass)
* [[Phalaris brachystachys]]
* [[Phalaris canariensis]]
* [[Phalaris minor]]
* [[Phalaris paradoxa]]
* [[Phalaris stenoptera]]
* [[Phalaris tuberosa]]
* [[Peganum harmala]] (Syrian rue)
* [[Phragmites australis]]
* [[Psychotria viridis]] (Chacruna)
* [[Psychotria carthaginensis]]
* [[Psychotria horizontalis]]
* [[Psychotria marginala]]
* [[Psychotria poeppigiana]]
* [[Psychotria pychotriaefolia]]
* [[Psychotria stenostachya]]
* [[Salvia divinorum]]
* [[Tabernanthe Iboga]] (Iboga)
* [[Testulea gabonensis]]
* [[Trichocereus Pachanoi]]
* [[Trichocereus Peruvianus]]
* [[Vepris ampody]]
* [[Virola calophylla]]
* [[Virola calophylloidea]]
* [[Virola carinata]]
* [[Virola divergens]]
* [[Virola elongata]]
* [[Virola melinonii]]
* [[Virola multinervia]]
* [[Virola pavonis]]
* [[Virola peruviana]]
* [[Virola rufuta]]
* [[Virola sebifera]]
* [[Virola theiodora]]
* [[Virola venosa]]
* [[Zanthoxylum arborescens]]
* [[Zanthoxylum procerum]]

= Fungus =

* [[Psilocybe cubensis]]

= Other =

*

Mimosa hostilis

2014-05-13T02:08:47Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Links */

[[Image:Mimosa Hostilis.jpg|thumb|right|300px|''Mimosa hostilis'']]
[[Image:Mimosaclose.jpg|thumb|right|300px|''Mimosa hostilis seed pod'']]
[[Image:Mimosaflowers.jpg|thumb|right|300px|''Mimosa hostilis flower'']]

== General Plant Info ==

'''''Mimosa hostilis''''' is the former scientific name for '''''Mimosa tenuiflora''''', and the two names are synonymous
<ref>USDA, ARS, National Genetic Resources Program. Germplasm Resources Information Network - (GRIN) [Online Database]. National Germplasm Resources Laboratory, Beltsville, Maryland. URL: http://www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bin/npgs/html/taxon.pl?24430</ref><ref>Lewis, G.P. (1987) Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew 369 pp Legumes of Bahia.</ref>. The older name is still widely know due to its presence in the literature and as distributers of botanical products still use the older term. ''M. tenuiflora'' is an entheogen known as ''Jurema'', ''Jurema Preta'', ''Black Jurema'', and ''Vinho de Jurema''. Dried Mexican ''Mimosa Hostilis'' root bark has been recently shown to have a DMT content of about 1%. The stem bark has about 0.03% DMT.

To date no β-carbolines such as harmala alkaloids have been detected in ''Mimosa tenuiflora'' decoctions, however the isolation of a new compound called "Yuremamine" from ''Mimosa tenuiflora'' as reported in 2005 represents a new class of phyto-indoles <ref>Vepsäläinen, Jouko J.; Auriola, Seppo; Tukiainen, Mikko; Ropponen, Nina & Callaway, J.C. (2005). "Isolation and characterization of yuremamine, a new phytoindole". Planta Medica, 71: 1053-1057. URL: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16320208</ref>. This may explain the reported oral activity of DMT in Jurema without the addition of an MAOI. Imported MHRB typically requires the addition of an MAOI in the preparation of ayahuasca.

== Identification ==

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=283798#post283798 Post on identification of Mimosa hostilis vs Mimosa ophthalmocentra]

== Alkaloid content ==

* Root Bark contains DMT - 0.31% to 0.57% (Schultes 1977)
* Inner root bark contains up to 2% active alkaloids (Extractions from DMT-Nexus and others)
* 3% of the total alkaloids (or 0.04% of rootbark) is NMT and 2-Methyl-1,2,3,4-Tetrahydro-Beta-Carboline ([https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=10553 Analysis of jungle spice], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=19320 Analysis of red/yellow/white spices]

== Extraction teks ==

For extracting DMT , any of the extraction teks described [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Extraction_Tek#DMT here] will work.

Yuremamine is sensitive to heat and pH changes so only cold water (or alcoholic) soak will retrieve it.

== Cultivation ==

'''Growing''': Mimosas aren´t cold proof. For outdoor growing they deserve a sunny place with leachy middle nutrient soil. Throughout the vegetation are copiously watered, in winter the watering is tied down on to the minimum. They are breeding with the seeds, but can be breeded with the cutting also.

== Refinery for the Purpose of Extraction ==

[[MHRB|Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark]] can be acquired in different stages of preparation. Usually it is sold as ''whole'', ''shredded'' or ''pre-powdered'' root-bark, but one may have access to the whole root—usually when harvested directly.
* The whole root must cleaned and stripped of its inner root-bark while discarding the rest of the root.
* The whole root-bark must generally be torn by hand, cut, or smashed with a blunt object prior to shredding.
* The shredded should be further broken down as much as possible by peeling/cutting/blending to increase surface area for alkaloids to be extracted.
* The pre-powdered can always be used "as-is".

Below details how to break it from whole root

=== The Root ===

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|Only the '''Inner Root Bark''' is necessary for extraction, the ''core'' and ''outer parts'' are to be discarded!}}

{{Procedure
|Root preparation
|
Pictured below is its original after being harvested from the plant. Notice the middle core is quite distinct from the root-bark, the outer bark is much more brown:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:MHR.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0138largehu6.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0158largeux3.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0136largedg2.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Cleaning the root ===

{{Procedure
|Cleaning The Root
|
The first step in refinery is to brush the outside to remove the dirt. Then the outer bark must be lightly scraped with a good knife. It is preferable to remove at least some of the outermost layer to uncover the more blackish and purplish layer underneath:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0145largemx8.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0126largevu7.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0125largegc6.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Peeling the Inner Root Bark ===

{{Procedure
|Peeling the Inner Root Bark
|
Once the outermost part has been removed, peel off the Inner Root Bark to separate it from the core. This can easily be accomplished immediately by hand, though the use of a knife may be helpful.
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0128largeys9.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0130largezp0.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0149largewh7.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0147largeuc0.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
Here's the inner core which is to be discarded:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0133largera8.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Result of root preparation ===

{{Procedure
|Result of root preparation
|
The peeled inner root-bark now needs to dry. This may be accomplished by simply leaving it in the sun. Here's how it should look:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0160largehd1.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0150largesq4.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Breaking the rootbark up ===

{{Procedure
|Breaking the rootbark up
|
The pieces/strips of inner root-bark require further refinery to expose a larger surface area and increase the availability of the alkaloids for extraction. If storage is desired, then the whole pieces are preferable, as the alkaloids are less exposed and thus better protected.

First strip the pieces further into thinner layers with the hands, then cut it up with good scissors into smaller squares, then break it down in small amounts and short/medium bursts with a blender or coffee grinder (to prevent breaking of blender/grinder)
}}

== References ==
<references/>

== Links ==

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Containing_Plants WIKI -> DMT Containing Plants]

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Botanicals WIKI -> Botanicals]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=357670#post357670 Guide to Researching Psychoactive Plants: Resource List]

* [http://sharetheseeds.me/forum/index.php?topic=230.msg305#msg305 STS: Practical Resources for Plant ID and description]

* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mimosa_hostilis Mimosa Hostilis on Wikipedia]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa ID stuff]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=369566#post369566 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace]

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33648 Acacia Identification Thread]

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Trying to improve Acacia information]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia ID stuff.zip]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=34525 Phalaris/other grass types ID thread]

* [http://www.erowid.org/plants/phalaris/phalaris_images.shtml Erowid.org -> Phalaris Grass Images]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=173732#post173732 help identifying Phalaris arundinacea]

* [http://extension.entm.purdue.edu/caps/pestInfo/reedCanaryGrass.htm extension.entm.purdue.edu -> Reed Canary Grass]

[[Category:Botanicals]]

Category:Botanicals

2014-05-13T02:07:43Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Plants */

= Plants =

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Containing_Plants WIKI -> DMT Containing Plants]

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Botanicals WIKI -> Botanicals]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=357670#post357670 Guide to Researching Psychoactive Plants: Resource List]

* [http://sharetheseeds.me/forum/index.php?topic=230.msg305#msg305 STS: Practical Resources for Plant ID and description]

* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mimosa_hostilis Mimosa Hostilis on Wikipedia]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa ID stuff]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=369566#post369566 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace]

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33648 Acacia Identification Thread]

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Trying to improve Acacia information]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia ID.zip]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=34525 Phalaris/other grass types ID thread]

* [http://www.erowid.org/plants/phalaris/phalaris_images.shtml Erowid.org -> Phalaris Grass Images]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=173732#post173732 help identifying Phalaris arundinacea]

* [http://extension.entm.purdue.edu/caps/pestInfo/reedCanaryGrass.htm extension.entm.purdue.edu -> Reed Canary Grass]

== General species info ==

* [[Acacia spp.]]
* [[Phalaris spp.]]

== All Plants ==

* [[Acacia abbatiana]]
* [[Acacia abbreviata]]
* [[Acacia abrupta]]
* [[Acacia acanthaster]]
* [[Acacia acanthoclada]]
* [[Acacia acellerata]]
* [[Acacia acinacea]]
* [[Acacia aciphylla]]
* [[Acacia acoma]]
* [[Acacia acradenia]]
* [[Acacia acrionastes]]
* [[Acacia acuaria]]
* [[Acacia aculeatissima]]
* [[Acacia aculeiformis]]
* [[Acacia acuminata]]
* [[Acacia acutata]]
* [[Acacia adenogonia]]
* [[Acacia adinophylla]]
* [[Acacia adnata]]
* [[Acacia adoxa]]
* [[Acacia adsurgens]]
* [[Acacia adunca]]
* [[Acacia aemula]]
* [[Acacia aestivalis]]
* [[Acacia alata]]
* [[Acacia alaticaulis]]
* [[Acacia albida (Faidherbia albida)]]
* [[Acacia alcockii]]
* [[Acacia alexandri]]
* [[Acacia alleniana]]
* [[Acacia alpina]]
* [[Acacia amanda]]
* [[Acacia amblygona]]
* [[Acacia amblyophylla]]
* [[Acacia amentifera]]
* [[Acacia ammobia]]
* [[Acacia ammophila]]
* [[Acacia amoena]]
* [[Acacia ampliata]]
* [[Acacia ampliceps]]
* [[Acacia amyctica]]
* [[Acacia anasilla]]
* [[Acacia anastema]]
* [[Acacia anastomosa]]
* [[Acacia anaticeps]]
* [[Acacia anceps]]
* [[Acacia ancistrocarpa]]
* [[Acacia ancistrophylla]]
* [[Acacia andrewsii]]
* [[Acacia aneura]]
* [[Acacia anfractuosa]]
* [[Acacia angusta]]
* [[Acacia angustifolia]]
* [[Acacia angustissima]]
* [[Acacia anomala]]
* [[Acacia anserina]]
* [[Acacia anthochaera]]
* [[Acacia aphylla]]
* [[Acacia applanata]]
* [[Acacia aprepta]]
* [[Acacia aprica]]
* [[Acacia aptaneura]]
* [[Acacia arafurica]]
* [[Acacia araneosa]]
* [[Acacia arbiana]]
* [[Acacia arcuatilis]]
* [[Acacia areolata]]
* [[Acacia argentina]]
* [[Acacia argutifolia]]
* [[Acacia argyraea]]
* [[Acacia argyrodendron]]
* [[Acacia argyrophylla]]
* [[Acacia argyrotricha]]
* [[Acacia arida]]
* [[Acacia aristulata]]
* [[Acacia armillata]]
* [[Acacia armitii]]
* [[Acacia arrecta]]
* [[Acacia ascendens]]
* [[Acacia asepala]]
* [[Acacia ashbyae]]
* [[Acacia asparagoides]]
* [[Acacia aspera]]
* [[Acacia asperulacea]]
* [[Acacia assimilis]]
* [[Acacia ataxiphylla]]
* [[Acacia atkinsiana]]
* [[Acacia atopa]]
* [[Acacia atrox]]
* [[Acacia attenuata]]
* [[Acacia aulacocarpa]]
* [[Acacia aulacophylla]]
* [[Acacia auratiflora]]
* [[Acacia aureocrinita]]
* [[Acacia auricoma]]
* [[Acacia auriculiformis]]
* [[Acacia auripila]]
* [[Acacia auronitens]]
* [[Acacia ausfeldii]]
* [[Acacia awestoniana]]
* [[Acacia axillaris]]
* [[Acacia ayersiana]]

* [[Acacia baeuerlenii]]
* [[Acacia baileyana]]
* [[Acacia bakeri]]
* [[Acacia balsamea]]
* [[Acacia bancroftiorum]]
* [[Acacia barakulensis]]
* [[Acacia barattensis]]
* [[Acacia barbinervis]]
* [[Acacia barrettiorum]]
* [[Acacia barringtonensis]]
* [[Acacia bartlei]]
* [[Acacia basedowii]]
* [[Acacia baueri]]
* [[Acacia baxteri]]
* [[Acacia beadleana]]
* [[Acacia beauverdiana]]
* [[Acacia beckleri]]
* [[Acacia benthamii]]
* [[Acacia berlandieri]]
* [[Acacia betchei]]
* [[Acacia bidentata]]
* [[Acacia bifaria]]
* [[Acacia biflora]]
* [[Acacia binata]]
* [[Acacia binervata]]
* [[Acacia binervia]]
* [[Acacia bivenosa]]
* [[Acacia blakei]]
* [[Acacia blakelyi]]
* [[Acacia blaxellii]]
* [[Acacia blayana]]
* [[Acacia boormanii]]
* [[Acacia botrydion]]
* [[Acacia brachybotrya]]
* [[Acacia brachycarpa]]
* [[Acacia brachyclada]]
* [[Acacia brachyphylla]]
* [[Acacia brachypoda]]
* [[Acacia brachystachya]]
* [[Acacia bracteolata]]
* [[Acacia brassii]]
* [[Acacia brockii]]
* [[Acacia bromilowiana]]
* [[Acacia brownii]]
* [[Acacia brumalis]]
* [[Acacia brunioides]]
* [[Acacia bulgaensis]]
* [[Acacia burbidgeae]]
* [[Acacia burdekensis]]
* [[Acacia burkittii]]
* [[Acacia burrana]]
* [[Acacia burrowii]]
* [[Acacia burrowsiana]]
* [[Acacia buxifolia]]
* [[Acacia bynoeana]]

* [[Acacia caerulescens]]
* [[Acacia caesaneura]]
* [[Acacia caesariata]]
* [[Acacia caesiella]]
* [[Acacia calamifolia]]
* [[Acacia calantha]]
* [[Acacia calcarata]]
* [[Acacia calcicola]]
* [[Acacia calligera]]
* [[Acacia calyculata]]
* [[Acacia cambagei]]
* [[Acacia camptocarpa]]
* [[Acacia camptoclada]]
* [[Acacia campylophylla]]
* [[Acacia cana]]
* [[Acacia cangaiensis]]
* [[Acacia capillaris]]
* [[Acacia cardiophylla]]
* [[Acacia carens]]
* [[Acacia carneorum]]
* [[Acacia carnosula]]
* [[Acacia caroleae]]
* [[Acacia cassicula]]
* [[Acacia castanostegia]]
* [[Acacia cataractae]]
* [[Acacia catechu]]
* [[Acacia catenulata]]
* [[Acacia cavealis]]
* [[Acacia caven]]
* [[Acacia cedroides]]
* [[Acacia celastrifolia]]
* [[Acacia celsa]]
* [[Acacia centrinervia]]
* [[Acacia cerastes]]
* [[Acacia chalkeri]]
* [[Acacia chamaeleon]]
* [[Acacia chapmanii]]
* [[Acacia chartacea]]
* [[Acacia cheelii]]
* [[Acacia chinchillensis]]
* [[Acacia chippendalei]]
* [[Acacia chisholmii]]
* [[Acacia chrysella]]
* [[Acacia chrysocephala]]
* [[Acacia chrysochaeta]]
* [[Acacia chrysopoda]]
* [[Acacia chrysotricha]]
* [[Acacia cincinnata]]
* [[Acacia citrinoviridis]]
* [[Acacia clandullensis]]
* [[Acacia claviseta]]
* [[Acacia clelandii]]
* [[Acacia clunies-rossiae]]
* [[Acacia clydonophora]]
* [[Acacia cochlearis]]
* [[Acacia cochlocarpa]]
* [[Acacia cockertoniana]]
* [[Acacia cognata]]
* [[Acacia colei]]
* [[Acacia colletioides]]
* [[Acacia comans]]
* [[Acacia complanata]]
* [[Acacia concolorans]]
* [[Acacia concurrens]]
* [[Acacia conferta]]
* [[Acacia confluens]]
* [[Acacia confusa]]
* [[Acacia congesta]]
* [[Acacia conjunctifolia]]
* [[Acacia conniana]]
* [[Acacia consanguinea]]
* [[Acacia consobrina]]
* [[Acacia conspersa]]
* [[Acacia constablei]]
* [[Acacia constricta]]
* [[Acacia continua]]
* [[Acacia convallium]]
* [[Acacia coolgardiensis]]
* [[Acacia coriacea]]
* [[Acacia cornigera]]
* [[Acacia costata]]
* [[Acacia costiniana]]
* [[Acacia courtii]]
* [[Acacia covenyi]]
* [[Acacia cowaniana]]
* [[Acacia cowleana]]
* [[Acacia cracentis]]
* [[Acacia craspedocarpa]]
* [[Acacia crassa]]
* [[Acacia crassicarpa]]
* [[Acacia crassistipula]]
* [[Acacia crassiuscula]]
* [[Acacia crassuloides]]
* [[Acacia cremiflora]]
* [[Acacia crenulata]]
* [[Acacia cretacea]]
* [[Acacia cretata]]
* [[Acacia crispula]]
* [[Acacia crombiei]]
* [[Acacia cultriformis]]
* [[Acacia cummingiana]]
* [[Acacia cuneifolia]]
* [[Acacia cupularis]]
* [[Acacia curranii]]
* [[Acacia curvata]]
* [[Acacia cuspidifolia]]
* [[Acacia cuthbertsonii]]
* [[Acacia cyclocarpa]]
* [[Acacia cyclops]]
* [[Acacia cylindrica]]
* [[Acacia cyperophylla]]

* [[Acacia dacrydioides]]
* [[Acacia dallachiana]]
* [[Acacia dangarensis]]
* [[Acacia daphnifolia]]
* [[Acacia daviesii]]
* [[Acacia daviesioides]]
* [[Acacia dawsonii]]
* [[Acacia dealbata]]
* [[Acacia deanei]]
* [[Acacia debilis]]
* [[Acacia declinata]]
* [[Acacia decora]]
* [[Acacia decurrens]]
* [[Acacia deficiens]]
* [[Acacia deflexa]]
* [[Acacia delibrata]]
* [[Acacia delicatula]]
* [[Acacia delphina]]
* [[Acacia deltoidea]]
* [[Acacia demissa]]
* [[Acacia dempsteri]]
* [[Acacia densiflora]]
* [[Acacia denticulosa]]
* [[Acacia dentifera]]
* [[Acacia depressa]]
* [[Acacia dermatophylla]]
* [[Acacia derwentiana]]
* [[Acacia desertorum]]
* [[Acacia desmondii]]
* [[Acacia deuteroneura]]
* [[Acacia diallaga]]
* [[Acacia diaphana]]
* [[Acacia diaphyllodinea]]
* [[Acacia diastemata]]
* [[Acacia dictyocarpa]]
* [[Acacia dictyoneura]]
* [[Acacia dictyophleba]]
* [[Acacia didyma]]
* [[Acacia dielsii]]
* [[Acacia dietrichiana]]
* [[Acacia difficilis]]
* [[Acacia difformis]]
* [[Acacia dilatata]]
* [[Acacia dimidiata]]
* [[Acacia diminuta]]
* [[Acacia dimorpha]]
* [[Acacia disparrima]]
* [[Acacia dissimilis]]
* [[Acacia dissona]]
* [[Acacia distans]]
* [[Acacia disticha]]
* [[Acacia divergens]]
* [[Acacia dodonaeifolia]]
* [[Acacia dolichophylla]]
* [[Acacia donaldsonii]]
* [[Acacia doratoxylon]]
* [[Acacia dorothea]]
* [[Acacia dorsenna]]
* [[Acacia drepanocarpa]]
* [[Acacia drepanophylla]]
* [[Acacia dunnii]]
* [[Acacia dura]]
* [[Acacia durabilis]]
* [[Acacia duriuscula]]

* [[Acacia echinula]]
* [[Acacia echinuliflora]]
* [[Acacia effusa]]
* [[Acacia effusifolia]]
* [[Acacia elachantha]]
* [[Acacia elata]]
* [[Acacia elongata]]
* [[Acacia enervia]]
* [[Acacia ensifolia]]
* [[Acacia enterocarpa]]
* [[Acacia epedunculata]]
* [[Acacia ephedroides]]
* [[Acacia equisetifolia]]
* [[Acacia eremaea]]
* [[Acacia eremophila]]
* [[Acacia eremophiloides]]
* [[Acacia ericifolia]]
* [[Acacia ericksoniae]]
* [[Acacia erinacea]]
* [[Acacia erioclada]]
* [[Acacia eriopoda]]
* [[Acacia errabunda]]
* [[Acacia estrophiolata]]
* [[Acacia euthycarpa]]
* [[Acacia euthyphylla]]
* [[Acacia evenulosa]]
* [[Acacia everistii]]
* [[Acacia excelsa]]
* [[Acacia excentrica]]
* [[Acacia exilis]]
* [[Acacia exocarpoides]]
* [[Acacia extensa]]
* [[Acacia exudans]]

* [[Acacia falcata]]
* [[Acacia falciformis]]
* [[Acacia farinosa]]
* [[Acacia fasciculifera]]
* [[Acacia faucium]]
* [[Acacia fauntleroyi]]
* [[Acacia fecunda]]
* [[Acacia ferocior]]
* [[Acacia filamentosa]]
* [[Acacia filicifolia]]
* [[Acacia filifolia]]
* [[Acacia filipes]]
* [[Acacia fimbriata]]
* [[Acacia flabellifolia]]
* [[Acacia flagelliformis]]
* [[Acacia flavescens]]
* [[Acacia flavipila]]
* [[Acacia fleckeri]]
* [[Acacia flexifolia]]
* [[Acacia flocktoniae]]
* [[Acacia floribunda]]
* [[Acacia floydii]]
* [[Acacia fodinalis]]
* [[Acacia formidabilis]]
* [[Acacia forrestiana]]
* [[Acacia forsythii]]
* [[Acacia fragilis]]
* [[Acacia frigescens]]
* [[Acacia froggattii]]
* [[Acacia fulva]]
* [[Acacia fuscaneura]]

* [[Acacia galeata]]
* [[Acacia galioides]]
* [[Acacia gardneri]]
* [[Acacia gelasina]]
* [[Acacia gemina]]
* [[Acacia genistifolia]]
* [[Acacia georgensis]]
* [[Acacia georginae]]
* [[Acacia gibbosa]]
* [[Acacia gibsonii]]
* [[Acacia gilesiana]]
* [[Acacia gillii]]
* [[Acacia gittinsii]]
* [[Acacia gladiiformis]]
* [[Acacia glandulicarpa]]
* [[Acacia glaucissima]]
* [[Acacia glaucocaesia]]
* [[Acacia glaucocarpa]]
* [[Acacia glaucoptera]]
* [[Acacia gloeotricha]]
* [[Acacia glutinosissima]]
* [[Acacia gnidium]]
* [[Acacia gonocarpa]]
* [[Acacia gonoclada]]
* [[Acacia gonophylla]]
* [[Acacia gordonii]]
* [[Acacia gracilenta]]
* [[Acacia gracilifolia]]
* [[Acacia graciliformis]]
* [[Acacia gracillima]]
* [[Acacia grandifolia]]
* [[Acacia graniticola]]
* [[Acacia grasbyi]]
* [[Acacia gregorii]]
* [[Acacia gunnii]]
* [[Acacia guymeri]]

* [[Acacia hadrophylla]]
* [[Acacia hakeoides]]
* [[Acacia halliana]]
* [[Acacia hamersleyensis]]
* [[Acacia hamiltoniana]]
* [[Acacia hammondii]]
* [[Acacia handonis]]
* [[Acacia harpophylla]]
* [[Acacia harveyi]]
* [[Acacia hastulata]]
* [[Acacia havilandiorum]]
* [[Acacia helicophylla]]
* [[Acacia helmsiana]]
* [[Acacia hemignosta]]
* [[Acacia hemiteles]]
* [[Acacia hemsleyi]]
* [[Acacia hendersonii]]
* [[Acacia heterochroa]]
* [[Acacia heteroclita]]
* [[Acacia heteroneura]]
* [[Acacia heterophylla]]
* [[Acacia hexaneura]]
* [[Acacia hilliana]]
* [[Acacia hippuroides]]
* [[Acacia hispidula]]
* [[Acacia hockingsii]]
* [[Acacia holosericea]]
* [[Acacia holotricha]]
* [[Acacia homaloclada]]
* [[Acacia homalophylla]]
* [[Acacia hopperiana]]
* [[Acacia horridula]]
* [[Acacia howittii]]
* [[Acacia hubbardiana]]
* [[Acacia huegelii]]
* [[Acacia humifusa]]
* [[Acacia hyaloneura]]
* [[Acacia hylonoma]]
* [[Acacia hypermeces]]
* [[Acacia hystrix]]

* [[Acacia idiomorpha]]
* [[Acacia imbricata]]
* [[Acacia imitans]]
* [[Acacia imparilis]]
* [[Acacia implexa]]
* [[Acacia improcera]]
* [[Acacia inaequilatera]]
* [[Acacia inaequiloba]]
* [[Acacia inamabilis]]
* [[Acacia incanicarpa]]
* [[Acacia inceana]]
* [[Acacia incognita]]
* [[Acacia incongesta]]
* [[Acacia incrassata]]
* [[Acacia incurva]]
* [[Acacia incurvaneura]]
* [[Acacia infecunda]]
* [[Acacia ingramii]]
* [[Acacia ingrata]]
* [[Acacia inophloia]]
* [[Acacia inops]]
* [[Acacia insolita]]
* [[Acacia intorta]]
* [[Acacia intricata]]
* [[Acacia irrorata]]
* [[Acacia islana]]
* [[Acacia isoneura]]
* [[Acacia iteaphylla]]
* [[Acacia ixiophylla]]
* [[Acacia ixodes]]

* [[Acacia jackesiana]]
* [[Acacia jacksonioides]]
* [[Acacia jamesiana]]
* [[Acacia jasperensis]]
* [[Acacia jennerae]]
* [[Acacia jensenii]]
* [[Acacia jibberdingensis]]
* [[Acacia johannis]]
* [[Acacia johnsonii]]
* [[Acacia jonesii]]
* [[Acacia jucunda]]
* [[Acacia julifera]]
* [[Acacia juncifolia]]

* [[Acacia kalgoorliensis]]
* [[Acacia karina]]
* [[Acacia kauaiensis]]
* [[Acacia kelleri]]
* [[Acacia kempeana]]
* [[Acacia kenneallyi]]
* [[Acacia kerryana]]
* [[Acacia kettlewelliae]]
* [[Acacia kimberleyensis]]
* [[Acacia kingiana]]
* [[Acacia koa]]
* [[Acacia koaia]]
* [[Acacia kochii]]
* [[Acacia kulnurensis]]
* [[Acacia kybeanensis]]
* [[Acacia kydrensis]]

* [[Acacia laccata]]
* [[Acacia lacertensis]]
* [[Acacia lachnophylla]]
* [[Acacia laeta]]
* [[Acacia lamprocarpa]]
* [[Acacia lanceolata]]
* [[Acacia lanei]]
* [[Acacia lanigera]]
* [[Acacia lanuginophylla]]
* [[Acacia laricina]]
* [[Acacia lasiocalyx]]
* [[Acacia latescens]]
* [[Acacia latifolia]]
* [[Acacia latior]]
* [[Acacia latipes]]
* [[Acacia latisepala]]
* [[Acacia latzii]]
* [[Acacia lauta]]
* [[Acacia lazaridis]]
* [[Acacia leeuweniana]]
* [[Acacia legnota]]
* [[Acacia leichhardtii]]
* [[Acacia leiocalyx]]
* [[Acacia leiophylla]]
* [[Acacia lentiginea]]
* [[Acacia leprosa]]
* [[Acacia leptalea]]
* [[Acacia leptocarpa]]
* [[Acacia leptoclada]]
* [[Acacia leptoloba]]
* [[Acacia leptoneura]]
* [[Acacia leptopetala]]
* [[Acacia leptophleba]]
* [[Acacia leptospermoides]]
* [[Acacia leptostachya]]
* [[Acacia leucoclada]]
* [[Acacia leucolobia]]
* [[Acacia levata]]
* [[Acacia ligulata]]
* [[Acacia ligustrina]]
* [[Acacia limbata]]
* [[Acacia linarioides]]
* [[Acacia linearifolia]]
* [[Acacia lineata]]
* [[Acacia lineolata]]
* [[Acacia linifolia]]
* [[Acacia linophylla]]
* [[Acacia lirellata]]
* [[Acacia littorea]]
* [[Acacia lobulata]]
* [[Acacia loderi]]
* [[Acacia longifolia]]
* [[Acacia longifolia var. sophorae]]
* [[Acacia longipedunculata]]
* [[Acacia longiphyllodinea]]
* [[Acacia longispicata]]
* [[Acacia longispinea]]
* [[Acacia longissima]]
* [[Acacia loroloba]]
* [[Acacia loxophylla]]
* [[Acacia lucasii]]
* [[Acacia lullfitziorum]]
* [[Acacia lumholtzii]]
* [[Acacia lunata]]
* [[Acacia lycopodiifolia]]
* [[Acacia lysiphloia]]

* [[Acacia mabellae]]
* [[Acacia macdonnelliensis]]
* [[Acacia mackeyana]]
* [[Acacia macnuttiana]]
* [[Acacia maconochieana]]
* [[Acacia macradenia]]
* [[Acacia macraneura]]
* [[Acacia maidenii]]
* [[Acacia maitlandii]]
* [[Acacia malloclada]]
* [[Acacia mangium]]
* [[Acacia manipularis]]
* [[Acacia maranoensis]]
* [[Acacia mariae]]
* [[Acacia marramamba]]
* [[Acacia masliniana]]
* [[Acacia mathuataensis]]
* [[Acacia matthewii]]
* [[Acacia maxwellii]]
* [[Acacia mearnsii]]
* [[Acacia megalantha]]
* [[Acacia meiantha]]
* [[Acacia meiosperma]]
* [[Acacia meisneri]]
* [[Acacia melanoxylon]]
* [[Acacia melleodora]]
* [[Acacia mellifera]]
* [[Acacia melvillei]]
* [[Acacia menzelii]]
* [[Acacia merinthophora]]
* [[Acacia merrallii]]
* [[Acacia merrickiae]]
* [[Acacia microbotrya]]
* [[Acacia microcalyx]]
* [[Acacia microcarpa]]
* [[Acacia microcybe]]
* [[Acacia microneura]]
* [[Acacia microsperma]]
* [[Acacia midgleyi]]
* [[Acacia mimica]]
* [[Acacia mimula]]
* [[Acacia minutifolia]]
* [[Acacia minutissima]]
* [[Acacia minyura]]
* [[Acacia mitchellii]]
* [[Acacia mitodes]]
* [[Acacia mollifolia]]
* [[Acacia montana]]
* [[Acacia monticola]]
* [[Acacia mooreana]]
* [[Acacia mountfordiae]]
* [[Acacia mucronata]]
* [[Acacia muelleriana]]
* [[Acacia mulganeura]]
* [[Acacia multisiliqua]]
* [[Acacia multispicata]]
* [[Acacia multistipulosa]]
* [[Acacia muriculata]]
* [[Acacia murrayana]]
* [[Acacia mutabilis]]
* [[Acacia myrtifolia]]

* [[Acacia nana]]
* [[Acacia nanodealbata]]
* [[Acacia nanopravissima]]
* [[Acacia nematophylla]]
* [[Acacia neriifolia]]
* [[Acacia nervosa]]
* [[Acacia nesophila]]
* [[Acacia neurocarpa]]
* [[Acacia neurophylla]]
* [[Acacia newmanii]]
* [[Acacia nigripilosa]]
* [[Acacia nilotica]]
* [[Acacia nitidula]]
* [[Acacia nivea]]
* [[Acacia nodiflora]]
* [[Acacia notabilis]]
* [[Acacia nova-anglica]]
* [[Acacia nubica]]
* [[Acacia nuperrima]]
* [[Acacia nyssophylla]]

* [[Acacia obesa]]
* [[Acacia obliquinervia]]
* [[Acacia obovata]]
* [[Acacia obtecta]]
* [[Acacia obtriangularis]]
* [[Acacia obtusata]]
* [[Acacia obtusifolia]]
* [[Acacia octonervia]]
* [[Acacia oerfota]]
* [[Acacia oldfieldii]]
* [[Acacia olgana]]
* [[Acacia oligoneura]]
* [[Acacia olsenii]]
* [[Acacia ommatosperma]]
* [[Acacia oncinocarpa]]
* [[Acacia oncinophylla]]
* [[Acacia ophiolithica]]
* [[Acacia oraria]]
* [[Acacia orbifolia]]
* [[Acacia orites]]
* [[Acacia orthocarpa]]
* [[Acacia orthotricha]]
* [[Acacia orthotropica]]
* [[Acacia oshanesii]]
* [[Acacia oswaldii]]
* [[Acacia oxycedrus]]
* [[Acacia oxycedrus x sophorae]]
* [[Acacia oxyclada]]

* [[Acacia pachyacra]]
* [[Acacia pachycarpa]]
* [[Acacia pachyphylla]]
* [[Acacia pachypoda]]
* [[Acacia palustris]]
* [[Acacia papulosa]]
* [[Acacia papyrocarpa]]
* [[Acacia paradoxa]]
* [[Acacia paraneura]]
* [[Acacia parramattensis]]
* [[Acacia parvipinnula]]
* [[Acacia pataczekii]]
* [[Acacia patagiata]]
* [[Acacia paula]]
* [[Acacia pedina]]
* [[Acacia pedleyi]]
* [[Acacia pellita]]
* [[Acacia pelophila]]
* [[Acacia pendula]]
* [[Acacia penninervis]]
* [[Acacia perangusta]]
* [[Acacia peregrinalis]]
* [[Acacia perpusilla]]
* [[Acacia perryi]]
* [[Acacia petraea]]
* [[Acacia peuce]]
* [[Acacia phacelia]]
* [[Acacia phaeocalyx]]
* [[Acacia pharangites]]
* [[Acacia phasmoides]]
* [[Acacia phlebocarpa]]
* [[Acacia phlebopetala]]
* [[Acacia phlebophylla]]
* [[Acacia pickardii]]
* [[Acacia piligera]]
* [[Acacia pilligaensis]]
* [[Acacia pinguiculosa]]
* [[Acacia pinguifolia]]
* [[Acacia platycarpa]]
* [[Acacia plautella]]
* [[Acacia plectocarpa]]
* [[Acacia podalyriifolia]]
* [[Acacia polifolia]]
* [[Acacia poliochroa]]
* [[Acacia polyacantha]]
* [[Acacia polyadenia]]
* [[Acacia polybotrya]]
* [[Acacia polystachya]]
* [[Acacia porcata]]
* [[Acacia praelongata]]
* [[Acacia praemorsa]]
* [[Acacia praetermissa]]
* [[Acacia prainii]]
* [[Acacia pravifolia]]
* [[Acacia pravissima]]
* [[Acacia prismifolia]]
* [[Acacia pritzeliana]]
* [[Acacia producta]]
* [[Acacia profusa]]
* [[Acacia proiantha]]
* [[Acacia prolata]]
* [[Acacia prominens]]
* [[Acacia provincialis]]
* [[Acacia pruinocarpa]]
* [[Acacia pruinosa]]
* [[Acacia pteraneura]]
* [[Acacia pterocaulon]]
* [[Acacia ptychoclada]]
* [[Acacia ptychophylla]]
* [[Acacia pubescens]]
* [[Acacia pubicosta]]
* [[Acacia pubifolia]]
* [[Acacia pubirhachis]]
* [[Acacia pulviniformis]]
* [[Acacia puncticulata]]
* [[Acacia purpureopetala]]
* [[Acacia pusilla]]
* [[Acacia pustula]]
* [[Acacia pycnantha]]
* [[Acacia pycnocephala]]
* [[Acacia pycnostachya]]
* [[Acacia pygmaea]]
* [[Acacia pyrifolia]]

* [[Acacia quadrilateralis]]
* [[Acacia quadrimarginea]]
* [[Acacia quadrisulcata]]
* [[Acacia quinquenervia]]
* [[Acacia quornensis]]

* [[Acacia racospermoides]]
* [[Acacia ramiflora]]
* [[Acacia ramulosa]]
* [[Acacia recurvata]]
* [[Acacia redolens]]
* [[Acacia rendlei]]
* [[Acacia repanda]]
* [[Acacia repens]]
* [[Acacia resinicostata]]
* [[Acacia resinimarginea]]
* [[Acacia resinistipulea]]
* [[Acacia resinosa]]
* [[Acacia restiacea]]
* [[Acacia retinervis]]
* [[Acacia retinodes]]
* [[Acacia retivenea]]
* [[Acacia retrorsa]]
* [[Acacia rhamphophylla]]
* [[Acacia rhetinocarpa]]
* [[Acacia rhigiophylla]]
* [[Acacia rhodophloia]]
* [[Acacia rhodoxylon]]
* [[Acacia riceana]]
* [[Acacia richardsii]]
* [[Acacia richii]]
* [[Acacia ridleyana]]
* [[Acacia rigens]]
* [[Acacia rigescens]]
* [[Acacia rigida]]
* [[Acacia rigidula]]
* [[Acacia rivalis]]
* [[Acacia robeorum]]
* [[Acacia robiniae]]
* [[Acacia rossei]]
* [[Acacia rostellata]]
* [[Acacia rostellifera]]
* [[Acacia rostriformis]]
* [[Acacia rothii]]
* [[Acacia roycei]]
* [[Acacia rubida]]
* [[Acacia rubricaulis]]
* [[Acacia rubricola]]
* [[Acacia rupicola]]
* [[Acacia ruppii]]
* [[Acacia ryaniana]]

* [[Acacia sabulosa]]
* [[Acacia saliciformis]]
* [[Acacia salicina]]
* [[Acacia saligna]]
* [[Acacia saxatilis]]
* [[Acacia saxicola]]
* [[Acacia scabra]]
* [[Acacia scalena]]
* [[Acacia scalpelliformis]]
* [[Acacia schinoides]]
* [[Acacia sciophanes]]
* [[Acacia scirpifolia]]
* [[Acacia scleroclada]]
* [[Acacia sclerophylla]]
* [[Acacia sclerosperma]]
* [[Acacia scopulorum]]
* [[Acacia seclusa]]
* [[Acacia sedifolia]]
* [[Acacia semiaurea]]
* [[Acacia semibinervia]]
* [[Acacia semicircinalis]]
* [[Acacia semilunata]]
* [[Acacia semirigida]]
* [[Acacia semitrullata]]
* [[Acacia senegal]]
* [[Acacia sericata]]
* [[Acacia sericocarpa]]
* [[Acacia sericoflora]]
* [[Acacia sericophylla]]
* [[Acacia serpentinicola]]
* [[Acacia sertiformis]]
* [[Acacia sessilis]]
* [[Acacia sessilispica]]
* [[Acacia setulifera]]
* [[Acacia shirleyi]]
* [[Acacia shuttleworthii]]
* [[Acacia sibilans]]
* [[Acacia sibina]]
* [[Acacia sibirica]]
* [[Acacia siculiformis]]
* [[Acacia sieberiana]]
* [[Acacia signata]]
* [[Acacia silvestris]]
* [[Acacia simplicifolia]]
* [[Acacia simmonsiana]]
* [[Acacia simsii]]
* [[Acacia simulans]]
* [[Acacia singula]]
* [[Acacia smeringa]]
* [[Acacia solenota]]
* [[Acacia sorophylla]]
* [[Acacia spania]]
* [[Acacia sparsiflora]]
* [[Acacia spathulifolia]]
* [[Acacia speckii]]
* [[Acacia spectabilis]]
* [[Acacia spectra]]
* [[Acacia sphacelata]]
* [[Acacia sphenophylla]]
* [[Acacia spilleriana]]
* [[Acacia spinescens]]
* [[Acacia spinosissima]]
* [[Acacia spirorbis]]
* [[Acacia splendens]]
* [[Acacia spondylophylla]]
* [[Acacia spongolitica]]
* [[Acacia spooneri]]
* [[Acacia sporadica]]
* [[Acacia squamata]]
* [[Acacia stanleyi]]
* [[Acacia startii]]
* [[Acacia steedmanii]]
* [[Acacia stellaticeps]]
* [[Acacia stenophylla]]
* [[Acacia stenoptera]]
* [[Acacia stereophylla]]
* [[Acacia stictophylla]]
* [[Acacia stigmatophylla]]
* [[Acacia stipuligera]]
* [[Acacia stipulosa]]
* [[Acacia storyi]]
* [[Acacia striatifolia]]
* [[Acacia stricta]]
* [[Acacia strongylophylla]]
* [[Acacia suaveolens]]
* [[Acacia subcaerulea]]
* [[Acacia subcontorta]]
* [[Acacia subflexuosa]]
* [[Acacia sublanata]]
* [[Acacia subporosa]]
* [[Acacia subrigida]]
* [[Acacia subsessilis]]
* [[Acacia subternata]]
* [[Acacia subtessarogona]]
* [[Acacia subtiliformis]]
* [[Acacia subtilinervis]]
* [[Acacia subulata]]
* [[Acacia sulcata]]
* [[Acacia sulcaticaulis]]
* [[Acacia symonii]]
* [[Acacia synantha]]
* [[Acacia synchronicia]]
* [[Acacia synoria]]

* [[Acacia tabula]]
* [[Acacia tarculensis]]
* [[Acacia telmica]]
* [[Acacia tenuinervis]]
* [[Acacia tenuior]]
* [[Acacia tenuispica]]
* [[Acacia tenuissima]]
* [[Acacia tephrina]]
* [[Acacia teretifolia]]
* [[Acacia terminalis]]
* [[Acacia tessellata]]
* [[Acacia tetanophylla]]
* [[Acacia tetragonocarpa]]
* [[Acacia tetragonophylla]]
* [[Acacia tetraneura]]
* [[Acacia tetraptera]]
* [[Acacia thoma]]
* [[Acacia thomsonii]]
* [[Acacia tindaleae]]
* [[Acacia tingoorensis]]
* [[Acacia tolmerensis]]
* [[Acacia toondulya]]
* [[Acacia torringtonensis]]
* [[Acacia torticarpa]]
* [[Acacia tortilis]]
* [[Acacia torulosa]]
* [[Acacia trachycarpa]]
* [[Acacia trachyphloia]]
* [[Acacia translucens]]
* [[Acacia tratmaniana]]
* [[Acacia trigonophylla]]
* [[Acacia trinalis]]
* [[Acacia trinervata]]
* [[Acacia trineura]]
* [[Acacia triptera]]
* [[Acacia triptycha]]
* [[Acacia triquetra]]
* [[Acacia tropica]]
* [[Acacia truculenta]]
* [[Acacia trudgeniana]]
* [[Acacia trulliformis]]
* [[Acacia truncata]]
* [[Acacia tuberculata]]
* [[Acacia tumida]]
* [[Acacia tysonii]]

* [[Acacia ulicifolia]]
* [[Acacia ulicina]]
* [[Acacia uliginosa]]
* [[Acacia umbellata]]
* [[Acacia umbraculiformis]]
* [[Acacia uncifera]]
* [[Acacia uncifolia]]
* [[Acacia uncinata]]
* [[Acacia uncinella]]
* [[Acacia undoolyana]]
* [[Acacia undosa]]
* [[Acacia undulifolia]]
* [[Acacia unguicula]]
* [[Acacia unifissilis]]
* [[Acacia urophylla]]

* [[Acacia validinervia]]
* [[Acacia vassalii]]
* [[Acacia venulosa]]
* [[Acacia verniciflua]]
* [[Acacia veronica]]
* [[Acacia verricula]]
* [[Acacia verticillata]]
* [[Acacia vestita]]
* [[Acacia victoriae]]
* [[Acacia vincentii]]
* [[Acacia viscidula]]
* [[Acacia viscifolia]]
* [[Acacia vittata]]
* [[Acacia volubilis]]

* [[Acacia walkeri]]
* [[Acacia wanyu]]
* [[Acacia wardellii]]
* [[Acacia warramaba]]
* [[Acacia wattsiana]]
* [[Acacia webbii]]
* [[Acacia websteri]]
* [[Acacia wetarensis]]
* [[Acacia whibleyana]]
* [[Acacia whitei]]
* [[Acacia wickhamii]]
* [[Acacia wilcoxii]]
* [[Acacia wilhelmiana]]
* [[Acacia willdenowiana]]
* [[Acacia williamsiana]]
* [[Acacia williamsonii]]
* [[Acacia willingii]]
* [[Acacia wilsonii]]
* [[Acacia wiseana]]
* [[Acacia woodmaniorum]]

* [[Acacia xanthina]]
* [[Acacia xanthocarpa]]
* [[Acacia xanthophloea]]
* [[Acacia xerophila]]
* [[Acacia xiphophylla]]

* [[Acacia yirrkallensis]]
* [[Acacia yorkrakinensis]]

* [[Acacia zatrichota]]

* [[Anadenanthera colubrina]]
* [[Anadenanthera excelsa]]
* [[Anadenanthera macrocarpa]]
* [[Anadenanthera peregrina]]
* [[Anthirhea lucida]]
* [[Arundo donax]]
* [[Banisteriopsis caapi]] (Caapi, Ayahuasca)
* [[Brugmansia spp]]
* [[Datura spp.]]
* [[Delosperma acuminatum]]
* [[Delosperma cooperi]]
* [[Delosperma ecklonis]]
* [[Delosperma esterhuyseniae]]
* [[Delosperma harazianum]]
* [[Delosperma hirtum]]
* [[Delosperma klinghardiana]]
* [[Delosperma lydenbergense]]
* [[Delosperma pageanum]]
* [[Delosperma pargamentaceum]]
* [[Delosperma tradescantioides]]
* [[Desmanthus illinoensis]]
* [[Desmanthus leptolobus]]
* [[Desmanthus velutinus]]
* [[Desmodium caudatum]]
* [[Desmodium gangeticum]]
* [[Desmodium gyrans]]
* [[Desmodium pulchellum]]
* [[Desmodium triflorum]]
* [[Diplopterys cabrerana]] (Chaliponga)
* [[Evodia rutaecarpa]]
* [[Justicia pectoralis]]
* [[Lespedeza bicolor]]
* [[Limona acidissima]
* [[Lophophora Williamsii]] (Peyote)
* [[Mimosa hostilis]]
* [[Mimosa ophthalmocentra]]
* [[Mimosa scabrella]
* [[Mimosa verrucosa]]
* [[Mucuna pruriens]]
* [[Osteophloem platyspermum]]
* [[Pandanus utilis]]
* [[Pandanus odoratissima]]
* [[Petalostylis labicheoides]]
* [[Phalaris aquatica]]
* [[Phalaris arundinacea]] (Reed canary grass)
* [[Phalaris brachystachys]]
* [[Phalaris canariensis]]
* [[Phalaris minor]]
* [[Phalaris paradoxa]]
* [[Phalaris stenoptera]]
* [[Phalaris tuberosa]]
* [[Peganum harmala]] (Syrian rue)
* [[Phragmites australis]]
* [[Psychotria viridis]] (Chacruna)
* [[Psychotria carthaginensis]]
* [[Psychotria horizontalis]]
* [[Psychotria marginala]]
* [[Psychotria poeppigiana]]
* [[Psychotria pychotriaefolia]]
* [[Psychotria stenostachya]]
* [[Salvia divinorum]]
* [[Tabernanthe Iboga]] (Iboga)
* [[Testulea gabonensis]]
* [[Trichocereus Pachanoi]]
* [[Trichocereus Peruvianus]]
* [[Vepris ampody]]
* [[Virola calophylla]]
* [[Virola calophylloidea]]
* [[Virola carinata]]
* [[Virola divergens]]
* [[Virola elongata]]
* [[Virola melinonii]]
* [[Virola multinervia]]
* [[Virola pavonis]]
* [[Virola peruviana]]
* [[Virola rufuta]]
* [[Virola sebifera]]
* [[Virola theiodora]]
* [[Virola venosa]]
* [[Zanthoxylum arborescens]]
* [[Zanthoxylum procerum]]

= Fungus =

* [[Psilocybe cubensis]]

= Other =

*

Mimosa hostilis

2014-05-13T02:06:45Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Links */

[[Image:Mimosa Hostilis.jpg|thumb|right|300px|''Mimosa hostilis'']]
[[Image:Mimosaclose.jpg|thumb|right|300px|''Mimosa hostilis seed pod'']]
[[Image:Mimosaflowers.jpg|thumb|right|300px|''Mimosa hostilis flower'']]

== General Plant Info ==

'''''Mimosa hostilis''''' is the former scientific name for '''''Mimosa tenuiflora''''', and the two names are synonymous
<ref>USDA, ARS, National Genetic Resources Program. Germplasm Resources Information Network - (GRIN) [Online Database]. National Germplasm Resources Laboratory, Beltsville, Maryland. URL: http://www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bin/npgs/html/taxon.pl?24430</ref><ref>Lewis, G.P. (1987) Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew 369 pp Legumes of Bahia.</ref>. The older name is still widely know due to its presence in the literature and as distributers of botanical products still use the older term. ''M. tenuiflora'' is an entheogen known as ''Jurema'', ''Jurema Preta'', ''Black Jurema'', and ''Vinho de Jurema''. Dried Mexican ''Mimosa Hostilis'' root bark has been recently shown to have a DMT content of about 1%. The stem bark has about 0.03% DMT.

To date no β-carbolines such as harmala alkaloids have been detected in ''Mimosa tenuiflora'' decoctions, however the isolation of a new compound called "Yuremamine" from ''Mimosa tenuiflora'' as reported in 2005 represents a new class of phyto-indoles <ref>Vepsäläinen, Jouko J.; Auriola, Seppo; Tukiainen, Mikko; Ropponen, Nina & Callaway, J.C. (2005). "Isolation and characterization of yuremamine, a new phytoindole". Planta Medica, 71: 1053-1057. URL: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16320208</ref>. This may explain the reported oral activity of DMT in Jurema without the addition of an MAOI. Imported MHRB typically requires the addition of an MAOI in the preparation of ayahuasca.

== Identification ==

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=283798#post283798 Post on identification of Mimosa hostilis vs Mimosa ophthalmocentra]

== Alkaloid content ==

* Root Bark contains DMT - 0.31% to 0.57% (Schultes 1977)
* Inner root bark contains up to 2% active alkaloids (Extractions from DMT-Nexus and others)
* 3% of the total alkaloids (or 0.04% of rootbark) is NMT and 2-Methyl-1,2,3,4-Tetrahydro-Beta-Carboline ([https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=10553 Analysis of jungle spice], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=19320 Analysis of red/yellow/white spices]

== Extraction teks ==

For extracting DMT , any of the extraction teks described [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Extraction_Tek#DMT here] will work.

Yuremamine is sensitive to heat and pH changes so only cold water (or alcoholic) soak will retrieve it.

== Cultivation ==

'''Growing''': Mimosas aren´t cold proof. For outdoor growing they deserve a sunny place with leachy middle nutrient soil. Throughout the vegetation are copiously watered, in winter the watering is tied down on to the minimum. They are breeding with the seeds, but can be breeded with the cutting also.

== Refinery for the Purpose of Extraction ==

[[MHRB|Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark]] can be acquired in different stages of preparation. Usually it is sold as ''whole'', ''shredded'' or ''pre-powdered'' root-bark, but one may have access to the whole root—usually when harvested directly.
* The whole root must cleaned and stripped of its inner root-bark while discarding the rest of the root.
* The whole root-bark must generally be torn by hand, cut, or smashed with a blunt object prior to shredding.
* The shredded should be further broken down as much as possible by peeling/cutting/blending to increase surface area for alkaloids to be extracted.
* The pre-powdered can always be used "as-is".

Below details how to break it from whole root

=== The Root ===

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|Only the '''Inner Root Bark''' is necessary for extraction, the ''core'' and ''outer parts'' are to be discarded!}}

{{Procedure
|Root preparation
|
Pictured below is its original after being harvested from the plant. Notice the middle core is quite distinct from the root-bark, the outer bark is much more brown:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:MHR.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0138largehu6.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0158largeux3.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0136largedg2.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Cleaning the root ===

{{Procedure
|Cleaning The Root
|
The first step in refinery is to brush the outside to remove the dirt. Then the outer bark must be lightly scraped with a good knife. It is preferable to remove at least some of the outermost layer to uncover the more blackish and purplish layer underneath:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0145largemx8.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0126largevu7.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0125largegc6.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Peeling the Inner Root Bark ===

{{Procedure
|Peeling the Inner Root Bark
|
Once the outermost part has been removed, peel off the Inner Root Bark to separate it from the core. This can easily be accomplished immediately by hand, though the use of a knife may be helpful.
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0128largeys9.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0130largezp0.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0149largewh7.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0147largeuc0.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
Here's the inner core which is to be discarded:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0133largera8.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Result of root preparation ===

{{Procedure
|Result of root preparation
|
The peeled inner root-bark now needs to dry. This may be accomplished by simply leaving it in the sun. Here's how it should look:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0160largehd1.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0150largesq4.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Breaking the rootbark up ===

{{Procedure
|Breaking the rootbark up
|
The pieces/strips of inner root-bark require further refinery to expose a larger surface area and increase the availability of the alkaloids for extraction. If storage is desired, then the whole pieces are preferable, as the alkaloids are less exposed and thus better protected.

First strip the pieces further into thinner layers with the hands, then cut it up with good scissors into smaller squares, then break it down in small amounts and short/medium bursts with a blender or coffee grinder (to prevent breaking of blender/grinder)
}}

== References ==
<references/>

== Links ==

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Containing_Plants WIKI -> DMT Containing Plants]

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Botanicals WIKI -> Botanicals]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=357670#post357670 Guide to Researching Psychoactive Plants: Resource List]

* [http://sharetheseeds.me/forum/index.php?topic=230.msg305#msg305 STS: Practical Resources for Plant ID and description]

* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mimosa_hostilis Mimosa Hostilis on Wikipedia]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa ID stuff]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=369566#post369566 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace]

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33648 Acacia Identification Thread]

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Trying to improve Acacia information]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia ID.zip]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=34525 Phalaris/other grass types ID thread]

* [http://www.erowid.org/plants/phalaris/phalaris_images.shtml Erowid.org -> Phalaris Grass Images]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=173732#post173732 help identifying Phalaris arundinacea]

* [http://extension.entm.purdue.edu/caps/pestInfo/reedCanaryGrass.htm extension.entm.purdue.edu -> Reed Canary Grass]

[[Category:Botanicals]]

Category:Botanicals

2014-05-13T01:55:20Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Plants */

= Plants =

[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Containing_Plants WIKI -> DMT Containing Plants]

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa.zip]'''

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia.zip]

[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Phalaris_spp. Phalaris_spp.]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=357670#post357670 Guide to Researching Psychoactive Plants: Resource List]

[http://sharetheseeds.me/forum/index.php?topic=230.msg305#msg305 STS: Practical Resources for Plant ID and description]
== General species info ==

* [[Acacia spp.]]
* [[Phalaris spp.]]

== All Plants ==

* [[Acacia abbatiana]]
* [[Acacia abbreviata]]
* [[Acacia abrupta]]
* [[Acacia acanthaster]]
* [[Acacia acanthoclada]]
* [[Acacia acellerata]]
* [[Acacia acinacea]]
* [[Acacia aciphylla]]
* [[Acacia acoma]]
* [[Acacia acradenia]]
* [[Acacia acrionastes]]
* [[Acacia acuaria]]
* [[Acacia aculeatissima]]
* [[Acacia aculeiformis]]
* [[Acacia acuminata]]
* [[Acacia acutata]]
* [[Acacia adenogonia]]
* [[Acacia adinophylla]]
* [[Acacia adnata]]
* [[Acacia adoxa]]
* [[Acacia adsurgens]]
* [[Acacia adunca]]
* [[Acacia aemula]]
* [[Acacia aestivalis]]
* [[Acacia alata]]
* [[Acacia alaticaulis]]
* [[Acacia albida (Faidherbia albida)]]
* [[Acacia alcockii]]
* [[Acacia alexandri]]
* [[Acacia alleniana]]
* [[Acacia alpina]]
* [[Acacia amanda]]
* [[Acacia amblygona]]
* [[Acacia amblyophylla]]
* [[Acacia amentifera]]
* [[Acacia ammobia]]
* [[Acacia ammophila]]
* [[Acacia amoena]]
* [[Acacia ampliata]]
* [[Acacia ampliceps]]
* [[Acacia amyctica]]
* [[Acacia anasilla]]
* [[Acacia anastema]]
* [[Acacia anastomosa]]
* [[Acacia anaticeps]]
* [[Acacia anceps]]
* [[Acacia ancistrocarpa]]
* [[Acacia ancistrophylla]]
* [[Acacia andrewsii]]
* [[Acacia aneura]]
* [[Acacia anfractuosa]]
* [[Acacia angusta]]
* [[Acacia angustifolia]]
* [[Acacia angustissima]]
* [[Acacia anomala]]
* [[Acacia anserina]]
* [[Acacia anthochaera]]
* [[Acacia aphylla]]
* [[Acacia applanata]]
* [[Acacia aprepta]]
* [[Acacia aprica]]
* [[Acacia aptaneura]]
* [[Acacia arafurica]]
* [[Acacia araneosa]]
* [[Acacia arbiana]]
* [[Acacia arcuatilis]]
* [[Acacia areolata]]
* [[Acacia argentina]]
* [[Acacia argutifolia]]
* [[Acacia argyraea]]
* [[Acacia argyrodendron]]
* [[Acacia argyrophylla]]
* [[Acacia argyrotricha]]
* [[Acacia arida]]
* [[Acacia aristulata]]
* [[Acacia armillata]]
* [[Acacia armitii]]
* [[Acacia arrecta]]
* [[Acacia ascendens]]
* [[Acacia asepala]]
* [[Acacia ashbyae]]
* [[Acacia asparagoides]]
* [[Acacia aspera]]
* [[Acacia asperulacea]]
* [[Acacia assimilis]]
* [[Acacia ataxiphylla]]
* [[Acacia atkinsiana]]
* [[Acacia atopa]]
* [[Acacia atrox]]
* [[Acacia attenuata]]
* [[Acacia aulacocarpa]]
* [[Acacia aulacophylla]]
* [[Acacia auratiflora]]
* [[Acacia aureocrinita]]
* [[Acacia auricoma]]
* [[Acacia auriculiformis]]
* [[Acacia auripila]]
* [[Acacia auronitens]]
* [[Acacia ausfeldii]]
* [[Acacia awestoniana]]
* [[Acacia axillaris]]
* [[Acacia ayersiana]]

* [[Acacia baeuerlenii]]
* [[Acacia baileyana]]
* [[Acacia bakeri]]
* [[Acacia balsamea]]
* [[Acacia bancroftiorum]]
* [[Acacia barakulensis]]
* [[Acacia barattensis]]
* [[Acacia barbinervis]]
* [[Acacia barrettiorum]]
* [[Acacia barringtonensis]]
* [[Acacia bartlei]]
* [[Acacia basedowii]]
* [[Acacia baueri]]
* [[Acacia baxteri]]
* [[Acacia beadleana]]
* [[Acacia beauverdiana]]
* [[Acacia beckleri]]
* [[Acacia benthamii]]
* [[Acacia berlandieri]]
* [[Acacia betchei]]
* [[Acacia bidentata]]
* [[Acacia bifaria]]
* [[Acacia biflora]]
* [[Acacia binata]]
* [[Acacia binervata]]
* [[Acacia binervia]]
* [[Acacia bivenosa]]
* [[Acacia blakei]]
* [[Acacia blakelyi]]
* [[Acacia blaxellii]]
* [[Acacia blayana]]
* [[Acacia boormanii]]
* [[Acacia botrydion]]
* [[Acacia brachybotrya]]
* [[Acacia brachycarpa]]
* [[Acacia brachyclada]]
* [[Acacia brachyphylla]]
* [[Acacia brachypoda]]
* [[Acacia brachystachya]]
* [[Acacia bracteolata]]
* [[Acacia brassii]]
* [[Acacia brockii]]
* [[Acacia bromilowiana]]
* [[Acacia brownii]]
* [[Acacia brumalis]]
* [[Acacia brunioides]]
* [[Acacia bulgaensis]]
* [[Acacia burbidgeae]]
* [[Acacia burdekensis]]
* [[Acacia burkittii]]
* [[Acacia burrana]]
* [[Acacia burrowii]]
* [[Acacia burrowsiana]]
* [[Acacia buxifolia]]
* [[Acacia bynoeana]]

* [[Acacia caerulescens]]
* [[Acacia caesaneura]]
* [[Acacia caesariata]]
* [[Acacia caesiella]]
* [[Acacia calamifolia]]
* [[Acacia calantha]]
* [[Acacia calcarata]]
* [[Acacia calcicola]]
* [[Acacia calligera]]
* [[Acacia calyculata]]
* [[Acacia cambagei]]
* [[Acacia camptocarpa]]
* [[Acacia camptoclada]]
* [[Acacia campylophylla]]
* [[Acacia cana]]
* [[Acacia cangaiensis]]
* [[Acacia capillaris]]
* [[Acacia cardiophylla]]
* [[Acacia carens]]
* [[Acacia carneorum]]
* [[Acacia carnosula]]
* [[Acacia caroleae]]
* [[Acacia cassicula]]
* [[Acacia castanostegia]]
* [[Acacia cataractae]]
* [[Acacia catechu]]
* [[Acacia catenulata]]
* [[Acacia cavealis]]
* [[Acacia caven]]
* [[Acacia cedroides]]
* [[Acacia celastrifolia]]
* [[Acacia celsa]]
* [[Acacia centrinervia]]
* [[Acacia cerastes]]
* [[Acacia chalkeri]]
* [[Acacia chamaeleon]]
* [[Acacia chapmanii]]
* [[Acacia chartacea]]
* [[Acacia cheelii]]
* [[Acacia chinchillensis]]
* [[Acacia chippendalei]]
* [[Acacia chisholmii]]
* [[Acacia chrysella]]
* [[Acacia chrysocephala]]
* [[Acacia chrysochaeta]]
* [[Acacia chrysopoda]]
* [[Acacia chrysotricha]]
* [[Acacia cincinnata]]
* [[Acacia citrinoviridis]]
* [[Acacia clandullensis]]
* [[Acacia claviseta]]
* [[Acacia clelandii]]
* [[Acacia clunies-rossiae]]
* [[Acacia clydonophora]]
* [[Acacia cochlearis]]
* [[Acacia cochlocarpa]]
* [[Acacia cockertoniana]]
* [[Acacia cognata]]
* [[Acacia colei]]
* [[Acacia colletioides]]
* [[Acacia comans]]
* [[Acacia complanata]]
* [[Acacia concolorans]]
* [[Acacia concurrens]]
* [[Acacia conferta]]
* [[Acacia confluens]]
* [[Acacia confusa]]
* [[Acacia congesta]]
* [[Acacia conjunctifolia]]
* [[Acacia conniana]]
* [[Acacia consanguinea]]
* [[Acacia consobrina]]
* [[Acacia conspersa]]
* [[Acacia constablei]]
* [[Acacia constricta]]
* [[Acacia continua]]
* [[Acacia convallium]]
* [[Acacia coolgardiensis]]
* [[Acacia coriacea]]
* [[Acacia cornigera]]
* [[Acacia costata]]
* [[Acacia costiniana]]
* [[Acacia courtii]]
* [[Acacia covenyi]]
* [[Acacia cowaniana]]
* [[Acacia cowleana]]
* [[Acacia cracentis]]
* [[Acacia craspedocarpa]]
* [[Acacia crassa]]
* [[Acacia crassicarpa]]
* [[Acacia crassistipula]]
* [[Acacia crassiuscula]]
* [[Acacia crassuloides]]
* [[Acacia cremiflora]]
* [[Acacia crenulata]]
* [[Acacia cretacea]]
* [[Acacia cretata]]
* [[Acacia crispula]]
* [[Acacia crombiei]]
* [[Acacia cultriformis]]
* [[Acacia cummingiana]]
* [[Acacia cuneifolia]]
* [[Acacia cupularis]]
* [[Acacia curranii]]
* [[Acacia curvata]]
* [[Acacia cuspidifolia]]
* [[Acacia cuthbertsonii]]
* [[Acacia cyclocarpa]]
* [[Acacia cyclops]]
* [[Acacia cylindrica]]
* [[Acacia cyperophylla]]

* [[Acacia dacrydioides]]
* [[Acacia dallachiana]]
* [[Acacia dangarensis]]
* [[Acacia daphnifolia]]
* [[Acacia daviesii]]
* [[Acacia daviesioides]]
* [[Acacia dawsonii]]
* [[Acacia dealbata]]
* [[Acacia deanei]]
* [[Acacia debilis]]
* [[Acacia declinata]]
* [[Acacia decora]]
* [[Acacia decurrens]]
* [[Acacia deficiens]]
* [[Acacia deflexa]]
* [[Acacia delibrata]]
* [[Acacia delicatula]]
* [[Acacia delphina]]
* [[Acacia deltoidea]]
* [[Acacia demissa]]
* [[Acacia dempsteri]]
* [[Acacia densiflora]]
* [[Acacia denticulosa]]
* [[Acacia dentifera]]
* [[Acacia depressa]]
* [[Acacia dermatophylla]]
* [[Acacia derwentiana]]
* [[Acacia desertorum]]
* [[Acacia desmondii]]
* [[Acacia deuteroneura]]
* [[Acacia diallaga]]
* [[Acacia diaphana]]
* [[Acacia diaphyllodinea]]
* [[Acacia diastemata]]
* [[Acacia dictyocarpa]]
* [[Acacia dictyoneura]]
* [[Acacia dictyophleba]]
* [[Acacia didyma]]
* [[Acacia dielsii]]
* [[Acacia dietrichiana]]
* [[Acacia difficilis]]
* [[Acacia difformis]]
* [[Acacia dilatata]]
* [[Acacia dimidiata]]
* [[Acacia diminuta]]
* [[Acacia dimorpha]]
* [[Acacia disparrima]]
* [[Acacia dissimilis]]
* [[Acacia dissona]]
* [[Acacia distans]]
* [[Acacia disticha]]
* [[Acacia divergens]]
* [[Acacia dodonaeifolia]]
* [[Acacia dolichophylla]]
* [[Acacia donaldsonii]]
* [[Acacia doratoxylon]]
* [[Acacia dorothea]]
* [[Acacia dorsenna]]
* [[Acacia drepanocarpa]]
* [[Acacia drepanophylla]]
* [[Acacia dunnii]]
* [[Acacia dura]]
* [[Acacia durabilis]]
* [[Acacia duriuscula]]

* [[Acacia echinula]]
* [[Acacia echinuliflora]]
* [[Acacia effusa]]
* [[Acacia effusifolia]]
* [[Acacia elachantha]]
* [[Acacia elata]]
* [[Acacia elongata]]
* [[Acacia enervia]]
* [[Acacia ensifolia]]
* [[Acacia enterocarpa]]
* [[Acacia epedunculata]]
* [[Acacia ephedroides]]
* [[Acacia equisetifolia]]
* [[Acacia eremaea]]
* [[Acacia eremophila]]
* [[Acacia eremophiloides]]
* [[Acacia ericifolia]]
* [[Acacia ericksoniae]]
* [[Acacia erinacea]]
* [[Acacia erioclada]]
* [[Acacia eriopoda]]
* [[Acacia errabunda]]
* [[Acacia estrophiolata]]
* [[Acacia euthycarpa]]
* [[Acacia euthyphylla]]
* [[Acacia evenulosa]]
* [[Acacia everistii]]
* [[Acacia excelsa]]
* [[Acacia excentrica]]
* [[Acacia exilis]]
* [[Acacia exocarpoides]]
* [[Acacia extensa]]
* [[Acacia exudans]]

* [[Acacia falcata]]
* [[Acacia falciformis]]
* [[Acacia farinosa]]
* [[Acacia fasciculifera]]
* [[Acacia faucium]]
* [[Acacia fauntleroyi]]
* [[Acacia fecunda]]
* [[Acacia ferocior]]
* [[Acacia filamentosa]]
* [[Acacia filicifolia]]
* [[Acacia filifolia]]
* [[Acacia filipes]]
* [[Acacia fimbriata]]
* [[Acacia flabellifolia]]
* [[Acacia flagelliformis]]
* [[Acacia flavescens]]
* [[Acacia flavipila]]
* [[Acacia fleckeri]]
* [[Acacia flexifolia]]
* [[Acacia flocktoniae]]
* [[Acacia floribunda]]
* [[Acacia floydii]]
* [[Acacia fodinalis]]
* [[Acacia formidabilis]]
* [[Acacia forrestiana]]
* [[Acacia forsythii]]
* [[Acacia fragilis]]
* [[Acacia frigescens]]
* [[Acacia froggattii]]
* [[Acacia fulva]]
* [[Acacia fuscaneura]]

* [[Acacia galeata]]
* [[Acacia galioides]]
* [[Acacia gardneri]]
* [[Acacia gelasina]]
* [[Acacia gemina]]
* [[Acacia genistifolia]]
* [[Acacia georgensis]]
* [[Acacia georginae]]
* [[Acacia gibbosa]]
* [[Acacia gibsonii]]
* [[Acacia gilesiana]]
* [[Acacia gillii]]
* [[Acacia gittinsii]]
* [[Acacia gladiiformis]]
* [[Acacia glandulicarpa]]
* [[Acacia glaucissima]]
* [[Acacia glaucocaesia]]
* [[Acacia glaucocarpa]]
* [[Acacia glaucoptera]]
* [[Acacia gloeotricha]]
* [[Acacia glutinosissima]]
* [[Acacia gnidium]]
* [[Acacia gonocarpa]]
* [[Acacia gonoclada]]
* [[Acacia gonophylla]]
* [[Acacia gordonii]]
* [[Acacia gracilenta]]
* [[Acacia gracilifolia]]
* [[Acacia graciliformis]]
* [[Acacia gracillima]]
* [[Acacia grandifolia]]
* [[Acacia graniticola]]
* [[Acacia grasbyi]]
* [[Acacia gregorii]]
* [[Acacia gunnii]]
* [[Acacia guymeri]]

* [[Acacia hadrophylla]]
* [[Acacia hakeoides]]
* [[Acacia halliana]]
* [[Acacia hamersleyensis]]
* [[Acacia hamiltoniana]]
* [[Acacia hammondii]]
* [[Acacia handonis]]
* [[Acacia harpophylla]]
* [[Acacia harveyi]]
* [[Acacia hastulata]]
* [[Acacia havilandiorum]]
* [[Acacia helicophylla]]
* [[Acacia helmsiana]]
* [[Acacia hemignosta]]
* [[Acacia hemiteles]]
* [[Acacia hemsleyi]]
* [[Acacia hendersonii]]
* [[Acacia heterochroa]]
* [[Acacia heteroclita]]
* [[Acacia heteroneura]]
* [[Acacia heterophylla]]
* [[Acacia hexaneura]]
* [[Acacia hilliana]]
* [[Acacia hippuroides]]
* [[Acacia hispidula]]
* [[Acacia hockingsii]]
* [[Acacia holosericea]]
* [[Acacia holotricha]]
* [[Acacia homaloclada]]
* [[Acacia homalophylla]]
* [[Acacia hopperiana]]
* [[Acacia horridula]]
* [[Acacia howittii]]
* [[Acacia hubbardiana]]
* [[Acacia huegelii]]
* [[Acacia humifusa]]
* [[Acacia hyaloneura]]
* [[Acacia hylonoma]]
* [[Acacia hypermeces]]
* [[Acacia hystrix]]

* [[Acacia idiomorpha]]
* [[Acacia imbricata]]
* [[Acacia imitans]]
* [[Acacia imparilis]]
* [[Acacia implexa]]
* [[Acacia improcera]]
* [[Acacia inaequilatera]]
* [[Acacia inaequiloba]]
* [[Acacia inamabilis]]
* [[Acacia incanicarpa]]
* [[Acacia inceana]]
* [[Acacia incognita]]
* [[Acacia incongesta]]
* [[Acacia incrassata]]
* [[Acacia incurva]]
* [[Acacia incurvaneura]]
* [[Acacia infecunda]]
* [[Acacia ingramii]]
* [[Acacia ingrata]]
* [[Acacia inophloia]]
* [[Acacia inops]]
* [[Acacia insolita]]
* [[Acacia intorta]]
* [[Acacia intricata]]
* [[Acacia irrorata]]
* [[Acacia islana]]
* [[Acacia isoneura]]
* [[Acacia iteaphylla]]
* [[Acacia ixiophylla]]
* [[Acacia ixodes]]

* [[Acacia jackesiana]]
* [[Acacia jacksonioides]]
* [[Acacia jamesiana]]
* [[Acacia jasperensis]]
* [[Acacia jennerae]]
* [[Acacia jensenii]]
* [[Acacia jibberdingensis]]
* [[Acacia johannis]]
* [[Acacia johnsonii]]
* [[Acacia jonesii]]
* [[Acacia jucunda]]
* [[Acacia julifera]]
* [[Acacia juncifolia]]

* [[Acacia kalgoorliensis]]
* [[Acacia karina]]
* [[Acacia kauaiensis]]
* [[Acacia kelleri]]
* [[Acacia kempeana]]
* [[Acacia kenneallyi]]
* [[Acacia kerryana]]
* [[Acacia kettlewelliae]]
* [[Acacia kimberleyensis]]
* [[Acacia kingiana]]
* [[Acacia koa]]
* [[Acacia koaia]]
* [[Acacia kochii]]
* [[Acacia kulnurensis]]
* [[Acacia kybeanensis]]
* [[Acacia kydrensis]]

* [[Acacia laccata]]
* [[Acacia lacertensis]]
* [[Acacia lachnophylla]]
* [[Acacia laeta]]
* [[Acacia lamprocarpa]]
* [[Acacia lanceolata]]
* [[Acacia lanei]]
* [[Acacia lanigera]]
* [[Acacia lanuginophylla]]
* [[Acacia laricina]]
* [[Acacia lasiocalyx]]
* [[Acacia latescens]]
* [[Acacia latifolia]]
* [[Acacia latior]]
* [[Acacia latipes]]
* [[Acacia latisepala]]
* [[Acacia latzii]]
* [[Acacia lauta]]
* [[Acacia lazaridis]]
* [[Acacia leeuweniana]]
* [[Acacia legnota]]
* [[Acacia leichhardtii]]
* [[Acacia leiocalyx]]
* [[Acacia leiophylla]]
* [[Acacia lentiginea]]
* [[Acacia leprosa]]
* [[Acacia leptalea]]
* [[Acacia leptocarpa]]
* [[Acacia leptoclada]]
* [[Acacia leptoloba]]
* [[Acacia leptoneura]]
* [[Acacia leptopetala]]
* [[Acacia leptophleba]]
* [[Acacia leptospermoides]]
* [[Acacia leptostachya]]
* [[Acacia leucoclada]]
* [[Acacia leucolobia]]
* [[Acacia levata]]
* [[Acacia ligulata]]
* [[Acacia ligustrina]]
* [[Acacia limbata]]
* [[Acacia linarioides]]
* [[Acacia linearifolia]]
* [[Acacia lineata]]
* [[Acacia lineolata]]
* [[Acacia linifolia]]
* [[Acacia linophylla]]
* [[Acacia lirellata]]
* [[Acacia littorea]]
* [[Acacia lobulata]]
* [[Acacia loderi]]
* [[Acacia longifolia]]
* [[Acacia longifolia var. sophorae]]
* [[Acacia longipedunculata]]
* [[Acacia longiphyllodinea]]
* [[Acacia longispicata]]
* [[Acacia longispinea]]
* [[Acacia longissima]]
* [[Acacia loroloba]]
* [[Acacia loxophylla]]
* [[Acacia lucasii]]
* [[Acacia lullfitziorum]]
* [[Acacia lumholtzii]]
* [[Acacia lunata]]
* [[Acacia lycopodiifolia]]
* [[Acacia lysiphloia]]

* [[Acacia mabellae]]
* [[Acacia macdonnelliensis]]
* [[Acacia mackeyana]]
* [[Acacia macnuttiana]]
* [[Acacia maconochieana]]
* [[Acacia macradenia]]
* [[Acacia macraneura]]
* [[Acacia maidenii]]
* [[Acacia maitlandii]]
* [[Acacia malloclada]]
* [[Acacia mangium]]
* [[Acacia manipularis]]
* [[Acacia maranoensis]]
* [[Acacia mariae]]
* [[Acacia marramamba]]
* [[Acacia masliniana]]
* [[Acacia mathuataensis]]
* [[Acacia matthewii]]
* [[Acacia maxwellii]]
* [[Acacia mearnsii]]
* [[Acacia megalantha]]
* [[Acacia meiantha]]
* [[Acacia meiosperma]]
* [[Acacia meisneri]]
* [[Acacia melanoxylon]]
* [[Acacia melleodora]]
* [[Acacia mellifera]]
* [[Acacia melvillei]]
* [[Acacia menzelii]]
* [[Acacia merinthophora]]
* [[Acacia merrallii]]
* [[Acacia merrickiae]]
* [[Acacia microbotrya]]
* [[Acacia microcalyx]]
* [[Acacia microcarpa]]
* [[Acacia microcybe]]
* [[Acacia microneura]]
* [[Acacia microsperma]]
* [[Acacia midgleyi]]
* [[Acacia mimica]]
* [[Acacia mimula]]
* [[Acacia minutifolia]]
* [[Acacia minutissima]]
* [[Acacia minyura]]
* [[Acacia mitchellii]]
* [[Acacia mitodes]]
* [[Acacia mollifolia]]
* [[Acacia montana]]
* [[Acacia monticola]]
* [[Acacia mooreana]]
* [[Acacia mountfordiae]]
* [[Acacia mucronata]]
* [[Acacia muelleriana]]
* [[Acacia mulganeura]]
* [[Acacia multisiliqua]]
* [[Acacia multispicata]]
* [[Acacia multistipulosa]]
* [[Acacia muriculata]]
* [[Acacia murrayana]]
* [[Acacia mutabilis]]
* [[Acacia myrtifolia]]

* [[Acacia nana]]
* [[Acacia nanodealbata]]
* [[Acacia nanopravissima]]
* [[Acacia nematophylla]]
* [[Acacia neriifolia]]
* [[Acacia nervosa]]
* [[Acacia nesophila]]
* [[Acacia neurocarpa]]
* [[Acacia neurophylla]]
* [[Acacia newmanii]]
* [[Acacia nigripilosa]]
* [[Acacia nilotica]]
* [[Acacia nitidula]]
* [[Acacia nivea]]
* [[Acacia nodiflora]]
* [[Acacia notabilis]]
* [[Acacia nova-anglica]]
* [[Acacia nubica]]
* [[Acacia nuperrima]]
* [[Acacia nyssophylla]]

* [[Acacia obesa]]
* [[Acacia obliquinervia]]
* [[Acacia obovata]]
* [[Acacia obtecta]]
* [[Acacia obtriangularis]]
* [[Acacia obtusata]]
* [[Acacia obtusifolia]]
* [[Acacia octonervia]]
* [[Acacia oerfota]]
* [[Acacia oldfieldii]]
* [[Acacia olgana]]
* [[Acacia oligoneura]]
* [[Acacia olsenii]]
* [[Acacia ommatosperma]]
* [[Acacia oncinocarpa]]
* [[Acacia oncinophylla]]
* [[Acacia ophiolithica]]
* [[Acacia oraria]]
* [[Acacia orbifolia]]
* [[Acacia orites]]
* [[Acacia orthocarpa]]
* [[Acacia orthotricha]]
* [[Acacia orthotropica]]
* [[Acacia oshanesii]]
* [[Acacia oswaldii]]
* [[Acacia oxycedrus]]
* [[Acacia oxycedrus x sophorae]]
* [[Acacia oxyclada]]

* [[Acacia pachyacra]]
* [[Acacia pachycarpa]]
* [[Acacia pachyphylla]]
* [[Acacia pachypoda]]
* [[Acacia palustris]]
* [[Acacia papulosa]]
* [[Acacia papyrocarpa]]
* [[Acacia paradoxa]]
* [[Acacia paraneura]]
* [[Acacia parramattensis]]
* [[Acacia parvipinnula]]
* [[Acacia pataczekii]]
* [[Acacia patagiata]]
* [[Acacia paula]]
* [[Acacia pedina]]
* [[Acacia pedleyi]]
* [[Acacia pellita]]
* [[Acacia pelophila]]
* [[Acacia pendula]]
* [[Acacia penninervis]]
* [[Acacia perangusta]]
* [[Acacia peregrinalis]]
* [[Acacia perpusilla]]
* [[Acacia perryi]]
* [[Acacia petraea]]
* [[Acacia peuce]]
* [[Acacia phacelia]]
* [[Acacia phaeocalyx]]
* [[Acacia pharangites]]
* [[Acacia phasmoides]]
* [[Acacia phlebocarpa]]
* [[Acacia phlebopetala]]
* [[Acacia phlebophylla]]
* [[Acacia pickardii]]
* [[Acacia piligera]]
* [[Acacia pilligaensis]]
* [[Acacia pinguiculosa]]
* [[Acacia pinguifolia]]
* [[Acacia platycarpa]]
* [[Acacia plautella]]
* [[Acacia plectocarpa]]
* [[Acacia podalyriifolia]]
* [[Acacia polifolia]]
* [[Acacia poliochroa]]
* [[Acacia polyacantha]]
* [[Acacia polyadenia]]
* [[Acacia polybotrya]]
* [[Acacia polystachya]]
* [[Acacia porcata]]
* [[Acacia praelongata]]
* [[Acacia praemorsa]]
* [[Acacia praetermissa]]
* [[Acacia prainii]]
* [[Acacia pravifolia]]
* [[Acacia pravissima]]
* [[Acacia prismifolia]]
* [[Acacia pritzeliana]]
* [[Acacia producta]]
* [[Acacia profusa]]
* [[Acacia proiantha]]
* [[Acacia prolata]]
* [[Acacia prominens]]
* [[Acacia provincialis]]
* [[Acacia pruinocarpa]]
* [[Acacia pruinosa]]
* [[Acacia pteraneura]]
* [[Acacia pterocaulon]]
* [[Acacia ptychoclada]]
* [[Acacia ptychophylla]]
* [[Acacia pubescens]]
* [[Acacia pubicosta]]
* [[Acacia pubifolia]]
* [[Acacia pubirhachis]]
* [[Acacia pulviniformis]]
* [[Acacia puncticulata]]
* [[Acacia purpureopetala]]
* [[Acacia pusilla]]
* [[Acacia pustula]]
* [[Acacia pycnantha]]
* [[Acacia pycnocephala]]
* [[Acacia pycnostachya]]
* [[Acacia pygmaea]]
* [[Acacia pyrifolia]]

* [[Acacia quadrilateralis]]
* [[Acacia quadrimarginea]]
* [[Acacia quadrisulcata]]
* [[Acacia quinquenervia]]
* [[Acacia quornensis]]

* [[Acacia racospermoides]]
* [[Acacia ramiflora]]
* [[Acacia ramulosa]]
* [[Acacia recurvata]]
* [[Acacia redolens]]
* [[Acacia rendlei]]
* [[Acacia repanda]]
* [[Acacia repens]]
* [[Acacia resinicostata]]
* [[Acacia resinimarginea]]
* [[Acacia resinistipulea]]
* [[Acacia resinosa]]
* [[Acacia restiacea]]
* [[Acacia retinervis]]
* [[Acacia retinodes]]
* [[Acacia retivenea]]
* [[Acacia retrorsa]]
* [[Acacia rhamphophylla]]
* [[Acacia rhetinocarpa]]
* [[Acacia rhigiophylla]]
* [[Acacia rhodophloia]]
* [[Acacia rhodoxylon]]
* [[Acacia riceana]]
* [[Acacia richardsii]]
* [[Acacia richii]]
* [[Acacia ridleyana]]
* [[Acacia rigens]]
* [[Acacia rigescens]]
* [[Acacia rigida]]
* [[Acacia rigidula]]
* [[Acacia rivalis]]
* [[Acacia robeorum]]
* [[Acacia robiniae]]
* [[Acacia rossei]]
* [[Acacia rostellata]]
* [[Acacia rostellifera]]
* [[Acacia rostriformis]]
* [[Acacia rothii]]
* [[Acacia roycei]]
* [[Acacia rubida]]
* [[Acacia rubricaulis]]
* [[Acacia rubricola]]
* [[Acacia rupicola]]
* [[Acacia ruppii]]
* [[Acacia ryaniana]]

* [[Acacia sabulosa]]
* [[Acacia saliciformis]]
* [[Acacia salicina]]
* [[Acacia saligna]]
* [[Acacia saxatilis]]
* [[Acacia saxicola]]
* [[Acacia scabra]]
* [[Acacia scalena]]
* [[Acacia scalpelliformis]]
* [[Acacia schinoides]]
* [[Acacia sciophanes]]
* [[Acacia scirpifolia]]
* [[Acacia scleroclada]]
* [[Acacia sclerophylla]]
* [[Acacia sclerosperma]]
* [[Acacia scopulorum]]
* [[Acacia seclusa]]
* [[Acacia sedifolia]]
* [[Acacia semiaurea]]
* [[Acacia semibinervia]]
* [[Acacia semicircinalis]]
* [[Acacia semilunata]]
* [[Acacia semirigida]]
* [[Acacia semitrullata]]
* [[Acacia senegal]]
* [[Acacia sericata]]
* [[Acacia sericocarpa]]
* [[Acacia sericoflora]]
* [[Acacia sericophylla]]
* [[Acacia serpentinicola]]
* [[Acacia sertiformis]]
* [[Acacia sessilis]]
* [[Acacia sessilispica]]
* [[Acacia setulifera]]
* [[Acacia shirleyi]]
* [[Acacia shuttleworthii]]
* [[Acacia sibilans]]
* [[Acacia sibina]]
* [[Acacia sibirica]]
* [[Acacia siculiformis]]
* [[Acacia sieberiana]]
* [[Acacia signata]]
* [[Acacia silvestris]]
* [[Acacia simplicifolia]]
* [[Acacia simmonsiana]]
* [[Acacia simsii]]
* [[Acacia simulans]]
* [[Acacia singula]]
* [[Acacia smeringa]]
* [[Acacia solenota]]
* [[Acacia sorophylla]]
* [[Acacia spania]]
* [[Acacia sparsiflora]]
* [[Acacia spathulifolia]]
* [[Acacia speckii]]
* [[Acacia spectabilis]]
* [[Acacia spectra]]
* [[Acacia sphacelata]]
* [[Acacia sphenophylla]]
* [[Acacia spilleriana]]
* [[Acacia spinescens]]
* [[Acacia spinosissima]]
* [[Acacia spirorbis]]
* [[Acacia splendens]]
* [[Acacia spondylophylla]]
* [[Acacia spongolitica]]
* [[Acacia spooneri]]
* [[Acacia sporadica]]
* [[Acacia squamata]]
* [[Acacia stanleyi]]
* [[Acacia startii]]
* [[Acacia steedmanii]]
* [[Acacia stellaticeps]]
* [[Acacia stenophylla]]
* [[Acacia stenoptera]]
* [[Acacia stereophylla]]
* [[Acacia stictophylla]]
* [[Acacia stigmatophylla]]
* [[Acacia stipuligera]]
* [[Acacia stipulosa]]
* [[Acacia storyi]]
* [[Acacia striatifolia]]
* [[Acacia stricta]]
* [[Acacia strongylophylla]]
* [[Acacia suaveolens]]
* [[Acacia subcaerulea]]
* [[Acacia subcontorta]]
* [[Acacia subflexuosa]]
* [[Acacia sublanata]]
* [[Acacia subporosa]]
* [[Acacia subrigida]]
* [[Acacia subsessilis]]
* [[Acacia subternata]]
* [[Acacia subtessarogona]]
* [[Acacia subtiliformis]]
* [[Acacia subtilinervis]]
* [[Acacia subulata]]
* [[Acacia sulcata]]
* [[Acacia sulcaticaulis]]
* [[Acacia symonii]]
* [[Acacia synantha]]
* [[Acacia synchronicia]]
* [[Acacia synoria]]

* [[Acacia tabula]]
* [[Acacia tarculensis]]
* [[Acacia telmica]]
* [[Acacia tenuinervis]]
* [[Acacia tenuior]]
* [[Acacia tenuispica]]
* [[Acacia tenuissima]]
* [[Acacia tephrina]]
* [[Acacia teretifolia]]
* [[Acacia terminalis]]
* [[Acacia tessellata]]
* [[Acacia tetanophylla]]
* [[Acacia tetragonocarpa]]
* [[Acacia tetragonophylla]]
* [[Acacia tetraneura]]
* [[Acacia tetraptera]]
* [[Acacia thoma]]
* [[Acacia thomsonii]]
* [[Acacia tindaleae]]
* [[Acacia tingoorensis]]
* [[Acacia tolmerensis]]
* [[Acacia toondulya]]
* [[Acacia torringtonensis]]
* [[Acacia torticarpa]]
* [[Acacia tortilis]]
* [[Acacia torulosa]]
* [[Acacia trachycarpa]]
* [[Acacia trachyphloia]]
* [[Acacia translucens]]
* [[Acacia tratmaniana]]
* [[Acacia trigonophylla]]
* [[Acacia trinalis]]
* [[Acacia trinervata]]
* [[Acacia trineura]]
* [[Acacia triptera]]
* [[Acacia triptycha]]
* [[Acacia triquetra]]
* [[Acacia tropica]]
* [[Acacia truculenta]]
* [[Acacia trudgeniana]]
* [[Acacia trulliformis]]
* [[Acacia truncata]]
* [[Acacia tuberculata]]
* [[Acacia tumida]]
* [[Acacia tysonii]]

* [[Acacia ulicifolia]]
* [[Acacia ulicina]]
* [[Acacia uliginosa]]
* [[Acacia umbellata]]
* [[Acacia umbraculiformis]]
* [[Acacia uncifera]]
* [[Acacia uncifolia]]
* [[Acacia uncinata]]
* [[Acacia uncinella]]
* [[Acacia undoolyana]]
* [[Acacia undosa]]
* [[Acacia undulifolia]]
* [[Acacia unguicula]]
* [[Acacia unifissilis]]
* [[Acacia urophylla]]

* [[Acacia validinervia]]
* [[Acacia vassalii]]
* [[Acacia venulosa]]
* [[Acacia verniciflua]]
* [[Acacia veronica]]
* [[Acacia verricula]]
* [[Acacia verticillata]]
* [[Acacia vestita]]
* [[Acacia victoriae]]
* [[Acacia vincentii]]
* [[Acacia viscidula]]
* [[Acacia viscifolia]]
* [[Acacia vittata]]
* [[Acacia volubilis]]

* [[Acacia walkeri]]
* [[Acacia wanyu]]
* [[Acacia wardellii]]
* [[Acacia warramaba]]
* [[Acacia wattsiana]]
* [[Acacia webbii]]
* [[Acacia websteri]]
* [[Acacia wetarensis]]
* [[Acacia whibleyana]]
* [[Acacia whitei]]
* [[Acacia wickhamii]]
* [[Acacia wilcoxii]]
* [[Acacia wilhelmiana]]
* [[Acacia willdenowiana]]
* [[Acacia williamsiana]]
* [[Acacia williamsonii]]
* [[Acacia willingii]]
* [[Acacia wilsonii]]
* [[Acacia wiseana]]
* [[Acacia woodmaniorum]]

* [[Acacia xanthina]]
* [[Acacia xanthocarpa]]
* [[Acacia xanthophloea]]
* [[Acacia xerophila]]
* [[Acacia xiphophylla]]

* [[Acacia yirrkallensis]]
* [[Acacia yorkrakinensis]]

* [[Acacia zatrichota]]

* [[Anadenanthera colubrina]]
* [[Anadenanthera excelsa]]
* [[Anadenanthera macrocarpa]]
* [[Anadenanthera peregrina]]
* [[Anthirhea lucida]]
* [[Arundo donax]]
* [[Banisteriopsis caapi]] (Caapi, Ayahuasca)
* [[Brugmansia spp]]
* [[Datura spp.]]
* [[Delosperma acuminatum]]
* [[Delosperma cooperi]]
* [[Delosperma ecklonis]]
* [[Delosperma esterhuyseniae]]
* [[Delosperma harazianum]]
* [[Delosperma hirtum]]
* [[Delosperma klinghardiana]]
* [[Delosperma lydenbergense]]
* [[Delosperma pageanum]]
* [[Delosperma pargamentaceum]]
* [[Delosperma tradescantioides]]
* [[Desmanthus illinoensis]]
* [[Desmanthus leptolobus]]
* [[Desmanthus velutinus]]
* [[Desmodium caudatum]]
* [[Desmodium gangeticum]]
* [[Desmodium gyrans]]
* [[Desmodium pulchellum]]
* [[Desmodium triflorum]]
* [[Diplopterys cabrerana]] (Chaliponga)
* [[Evodia rutaecarpa]]
* [[Justicia pectoralis]]
* [[Lespedeza bicolor]]
* [[Limona acidissima]
* [[Lophophora Williamsii]] (Peyote)
* [[Mimosa hostilis]]
* [[Mimosa ophthalmocentra]]
* [[Mimosa scabrella]
* [[Mimosa verrucosa]]
* [[Mucuna pruriens]]
* [[Osteophloem platyspermum]]
* [[Pandanus utilis]]
* [[Pandanus odoratissima]]
* [[Petalostylis labicheoides]]
* [[Phalaris aquatica]]
* [[Phalaris arundinacea]] (Reed canary grass)
* [[Phalaris brachystachys]]
* [[Phalaris canariensis]]
* [[Phalaris minor]]
* [[Phalaris paradoxa]]
* [[Phalaris stenoptera]]
* [[Phalaris tuberosa]]
* [[Peganum harmala]] (Syrian rue)
* [[Phragmites australis]]
* [[Psychotria viridis]] (Chacruna)
* [[Psychotria carthaginensis]]
* [[Psychotria horizontalis]]
* [[Psychotria marginala]]
* [[Psychotria poeppigiana]]
* [[Psychotria pychotriaefolia]]
* [[Psychotria stenostachya]]
* [[Salvia divinorum]]
* [[Tabernanthe Iboga]] (Iboga)
* [[Testulea gabonensis]]
* [[Trichocereus Pachanoi]]
* [[Trichocereus Peruvianus]]
* [[Vepris ampody]]
* [[Virola calophylla]]
* [[Virola calophylloidea]]
* [[Virola carinata]]
* [[Virola divergens]]
* [[Virola elongata]]
* [[Virola melinonii]]
* [[Virola multinervia]]
* [[Virola pavonis]]
* [[Virola peruviana]]
* [[Virola rufuta]]
* [[Virola sebifera]]
* [[Virola theiodora]]
* [[Virola venosa]]
* [[Zanthoxylum arborescens]]
* [[Zanthoxylum procerum]]

= Fungus =

* [[Psilocybe cubensis]]

= Other =

*

Category:DMT Containing Plants

2014-05-13T01:46:21Z

Cosmic Spore: /* WIKI -> Botanicals (link). */

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is to remain in accordance with the Botanical Transclusion Project, in which only a partial transclusion of each plant's individual page is to be included her in the form of an info box. The proper procedure to create a page for each plant is to transfer its info box from this page to its own page in the following manner:
{{ShowInfo/In Article|[[Image:Information.png]]|Format for Initial Page Creation
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<nowiki>
{{Botanical Transclusion Header}}
</nowiki>
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<onlyinclude>
</nowiki>
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{{botanics_info|Plant Image|Plant Name|
* Alkaloid Content w/ Reference
|Optional Nickname
}}
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
</onlyinclude>
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
{{Wikipedia}}
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
== Reference ==
</nowiki>
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<nowiki>
{{Page Footer}}
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}}
The Wikipedia transclusion may be replaced if personal authorship is desirable.
}}

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a work in progress -- its content throughout is not yet complete.}}

==[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Botanicals#Plants WIKI -> Botanicals] (link).==

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa.zip]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=369566#post369566 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Trying to improve Acacia information]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=36371 Acacia photo gallery]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33648 Acacia Identification Thread]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=38229 The TOP 8 ACACIAS to Grow WORLDWIDE]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia.zip]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=357670#post357670 Guide to Researching Psychoactive Plants: Resource List]

[http://sharetheseeds.me/forum/index.php?topic=230.msg305#msg305 STS: Practical Resources for Plant ID and description]

==DMT Containing plants==
The following is a list of plants known to contain tryptamines.

=== Acacia ===
{{:Acacia_acuminata}}

{{:Acacia_alpina}}

{{:Acacia angustifolia}}

{{:Acacia angustissima}}

{{:Acacia auriculiformis}}

{{:Acacia baileyana}}

{{:Acacia berlandieri}}

{{:Acacia catechu}}

{{:Acacia caven}}

{{:Acacia colei}}

{{:Acacia complanata}}

{{:Acacia constricta}}

{{:Acacia confusa}}

{{:Acacia cornigera}}

{{:Acacia cultriformis}}

{{:Acacia farnesiana}}

{{:Acacia filiciana}}

{{:Acacia_floribunda}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia georginae|
* Psychoactive,[8] plus deadly toxins
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia greggii|
* N-methyl-β-phenethylamine,[12] phenethylamine[36]
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia harpophylla|
* Phenethylamine, hordenine at a ratio of 2:3 in dried leaves, 0.6% total[6]
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia holoserica|
* Hordenine, 1.2% in bark[6]
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia horrida|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia implexa|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia karroo|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia kempeana|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia kettlewelliae|
* 1.5[6]–1.88%[38] alkaloids, 92% consisting of phenylethylamine.[6] 0.9% N-methyl-2-phenylethylamine found a different time
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia laeta|
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia lingulata|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia longifolia|
* 0.2% tryptamine in bark, leaves, some in flowers, phenylethylamine in flowers (Hegnauer 1994)
* DMT in plant (Lyceaum)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia macradenia|
* Tryptamine
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia maidenii|
* Bark of A. maidenii contains 0.6% of N-methyltryptamine and DMT in the proportions approx. 2:3 (Fitzgerald & Sioumis 1965)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia mangium|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia melanoxylon|
* DMT in the bark and leaf, less than 0.02% total alkaloids (Hegnauer 1994)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia mellifera|
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia nilotica|
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia obtusifolia|
* 0.4 to 0.5 % DMT/NMT in the dried bark (Csiro 1990)
*0.15-0.6% DMT,NMT(2:1)plus trace betacarboline in bark, 0.06-0.2% leaves (Southern Cross University comissioned test 2001)
*5-MeoDMT & bufotenine in some loctations (E., Entheogen Review 1995-6; Trout's Notes 2005-10) Is not fast growing in the wild and is under threat of serious overharvesting. Is NOT considered a weed as previously stated here, and will become rarer if wild seed populations exploited further.(Nen, original bioassay subject)
{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia oerfota|
* Less than 0.1% DMT in leaf (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia penninervis|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia phlebophylla|
* 0.3% DMT in leaf, NMT (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia platensis|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia podalyriaefolia|
* Tryptamine in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
* 0.5% to 2% DMT in fresh bark, phenethylamine trace amounts (Hegnauer 1994)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia polyacantha|
* DMT in leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia pycantha|
* Psychoactive,[8] but less than 0.02% total alkaloids
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia retinodes|
* DMT and MMT (www.factorey.ch/Eins.htm)
* Less than 0.02% total alkaloids found (Hegnauer 1994)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia roemeriana|
* β-methyl-phenethylamine
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia rigidula|
* DMT, NMT, tryptamine, amphetamines, mescaline, nicotine and others (Phytochem. 199
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia salicina|
* Psychoactive[8][9] Ash used in Pituri.
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia sassa|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia schaffneri|
* β-methyl-phenethylamine, Phenethylamine[36] Amphetamines and mescaline also found
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia schottii|
* β-methyl-phenethylamine
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia senegal|
* DMT, in the leaf
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia simplex|
*DMT and NMT, in the leaf, stem and trunk bark, 0.81% DMT in bark, MMT
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia taxensis|
* β-methyl-phenethylamine
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia tenuifolia|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|File:290px-Eat267.jpg|Acacia tortilis|
* DMT, NMT, and other tryptamines
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia sieberiana|
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia verek|
* Psychoactive (Rätsch 2004)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia vestita|
* Tryptamine, in the leaf and stem (Trout's Notes)
* Less than 0.02% total alkaloids (Hegnauer 1994)
}}

=== Anadenanthera ===
{{:Anadenanthera colubrina}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Anadenanthera macrocarpa|
* Seed pods contain dimethyltryptamine and the seeds bufotenin, bufotenin oxide, and oxide of dimethyltryptamine (GRANIER-DOYEUX 1965)
}}

{{:Anadenanthera_peregrina}}

=== Common Reed ===
{{botanics_info|image:arundo_donax.jpg|Arundo donax|Entire Plant contains 5-MeO-DMT (Shulgin, TIHKAL)Flowers contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, and 5-MeO-NMT (Shulgin, TIHKAL)Roots contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, 5-MeO-NMT, Bufotenine, bufotenidine, dehydrobufotenidine (Shulgin, TIHKAL)}}

{{botanics_info|image:desmanthus.jpg|Desmanthus illinoensis|Root contains DMT - 0.200% (Ott)Root Bark contains DMT - 0.340% (Ott)}}

{{:Phalaris_arundinacea}}

{{botanics_info|image:phalaris_aquatica.jpg|Phalaris tuberosa|Leaves and seedlings contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, and related compounds (Smith 1977)DMT - 0.100% (erowid)5-MeO-DMT - 0.022% (erowid)5-OH-DMT - 0.005% (erowid)}}

{{:Phragmites_australis}}

=== Delosperma ===
{{botanics_info|Image:Delosperma acuminatum2.jpg|Delosperma acuminatum|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:delosperma_acuminatum.jpg|Delosperma cooperi|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:iceplantbrighteyes-may.jpg|Delosperma ecklonis|DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:Delosperma_esterhuyseniae.jpg|Delosperma esterhuyseniae|DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma hallii|5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma harazianum|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma hirtum|DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:DelospermaLydenbergense.jpg|Delosperma lydenbergense|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma nubigenum|5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma pageanum|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma pergamentaceum|Traces of DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:180px-Delosperma_tradescantioides_leafs_IMGP0042.jpg|Delosperma tradescantioides|DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

=== Desmodium ===
{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium caudatum|
* Roots: 0.087% DMT, Bufotenine-N-oxide 0.03% (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium gangeticum|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT, whole plant, roots, stems, leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium gyrans|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT, leaves, roots (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium pulchellum|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT, whole plant, roots, stems, leaves, flowers (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium racemosum|
* 5-MEO-DMT (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium triflorum|
* DMT-N-oxide, roots (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Lespedeza bicolor|var. japonica
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in leaves and root bark (Ott)
}}

=== Petalostylis ===
{{botanics_info|image:petalostylis_cassioides.jpg|Petalostylis cassioides|0.4-0.5% tryptamine, DMT, etc. in leaves and stems (Johns et al 1966)}}

=== Mimosa ===
{{:Mimosa hostilis}}

{{:Mimosa ophthalmocentra}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Mimosa scabrella|
* DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|File:250px-Mimosa_verrucosa01.jpg|Mimosa verrucosa|
* DMT (Schultes 1969)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Mucuna pruriens|
* Leaves, seeds, stems and roots contain L-Dopa, Serotonin, 5-HTP, and Nicotine, as well as N,N-DMT, Bufotenine, and 5-MeO-DMT (Erowid)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Petalostylis labicheoides|var. casseoides
* DMT in leaves and stems (Ott)
}}

{{:Diplopterys_cabrerana}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Horsfieldia superba|
* 5-MeO-DMT and beta-carbolines (Jossang et al. 1991)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Iryanthera ulei|
* 5-MEO-DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Osteophloem platyspermum|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

=== Virola===
{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola calophylla|
* Leaves 0.149% DMT (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola carinata|
* DMT in leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola divergens|
* DMT in leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola elongata|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark and leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola melinonii|
* DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola multinervia|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark and leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola pavonis|
* DMT in leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola peruviana|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola rufuta|
* Alkaloids in bark and root, 95% of which is 5-MeO-DMT (Shulgin, TIHKAL)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola sebifera|
* DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola theiodora|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark, roots, leaves and flowers (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola venosa|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in roots and leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Psychotria carthaginensis|
* 0.2% average DMT in dried leaves (Ott)
}}

{{:Psychotria_viridis}}

==Sources==

{{Page_Footer|Botanicals|DMT}}

Mimosa hostilis

2014-05-13T01:43:34Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Links */

[[Image:Mimosa Hostilis.jpg|thumb|right|300px|''Mimosa hostilis'']]
[[Image:Mimosaclose.jpg|thumb|right|300px|''Mimosa hostilis seed pod'']]
[[Image:Mimosaflowers.jpg|thumb|right|300px|''Mimosa hostilis flower'']]

== General Plant Info ==

'''''Mimosa hostilis''''' is the former scientific name for '''''Mimosa tenuiflora''''', and the two names are synonymous
<ref>USDA, ARS, National Genetic Resources Program. Germplasm Resources Information Network - (GRIN) [Online Database]. National Germplasm Resources Laboratory, Beltsville, Maryland. URL: http://www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bin/npgs/html/taxon.pl?24430</ref><ref>Lewis, G.P. (1987) Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew 369 pp Legumes of Bahia.</ref>. The older name is still widely know due to its presence in the literature and as distributers of botanical products still use the older term. ''M. tenuiflora'' is an entheogen known as ''Jurema'', ''Jurema Preta'', ''Black Jurema'', and ''Vinho de Jurema''. Dried Mexican ''Mimosa Hostilis'' root bark has been recently shown to have a DMT content of about 1%. The stem bark has about 0.03% DMT.

To date no β-carbolines such as harmala alkaloids have been detected in ''Mimosa tenuiflora'' decoctions, however the isolation of a new compound called "Yuremamine" from ''Mimosa tenuiflora'' as reported in 2005 represents a new class of phyto-indoles <ref>Vepsäläinen, Jouko J.; Auriola, Seppo; Tukiainen, Mikko; Ropponen, Nina & Callaway, J.C. (2005). "Isolation and characterization of yuremamine, a new phytoindole". Planta Medica, 71: 1053-1057. URL: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16320208</ref>. This may explain the reported oral activity of DMT in Jurema without the addition of an MAOI. Imported MHRB typically requires the addition of an MAOI in the preparation of ayahuasca.

== Identification ==

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=283798#post283798 Post on identification of Mimosa hostilis vs Mimosa ophthalmocentra]

== Alkaloid content ==

* Root Bark contains DMT - 0.31% to 0.57% (Schultes 1977)
* Inner root bark contains up to 2% active alkaloids (Extractions from DMT-Nexus and others)
* 3% of the total alkaloids (or 0.04% of rootbark) is NMT and 2-Methyl-1,2,3,4-Tetrahydro-Beta-Carboline ([https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=10553 Analysis of jungle spice], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=19320 Analysis of red/yellow/white spices]

== Extraction teks ==

For extracting DMT , any of the extraction teks described [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Extraction_Tek#DMT here] will work.

Yuremamine is sensitive to heat and pH changes so only cold water (or alcoholic) soak will retrieve it.

== Cultivation ==

'''Growing''': Mimosas aren´t cold proof. For outdoor growing they deserve a sunny place with leachy middle nutrient soil. Throughout the vegetation are copiously watered, in winter the watering is tied down on to the minimum. They are breeding with the seeds, but can be breeded with the cutting also.

== Refinery for the Purpose of Extraction ==

[[MHRB|Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark]] can be acquired in different stages of preparation. Usually it is sold as ''whole'', ''shredded'' or ''pre-powdered'' root-bark, but one may have access to the whole root—usually when harvested directly.
* The whole root must cleaned and stripped of its inner root-bark while discarding the rest of the root.
* The whole root-bark must generally be torn by hand, cut, or smashed with a blunt object prior to shredding.
* The shredded should be further broken down as much as possible by peeling/cutting/blending to increase surface area for alkaloids to be extracted.
* The pre-powdered can always be used "as-is".

Below details how to break it from whole root

=== The Root ===

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|Only the '''Inner Root Bark''' is necessary for extraction, the ''core'' and ''outer parts'' are to be discarded!}}

{{Procedure
|Root preparation
|
Pictured below is its original after being harvested from the plant. Notice the middle core is quite distinct from the root-bark, the outer bark is much more brown:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:MHR.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0138largehu6.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0158largeux3.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0136largedg2.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Cleaning the root ===

{{Procedure
|Cleaning The Root
|
The first step in refinery is to brush the outside to remove the dirt. Then the outer bark must be lightly scraped with a good knife. It is preferable to remove at least some of the outermost layer to uncover the more blackish and purplish layer underneath:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0145largemx8.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0126largevu7.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0125largegc6.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Peeling the Inner Root Bark ===

{{Procedure
|Peeling the Inner Root Bark
|
Once the outermost part has been removed, peel off the Inner Root Bark to separate it from the core. This can easily be accomplished immediately by hand, though the use of a knife may be helpful.
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0128largeys9.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0130largezp0.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0149largewh7.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0147largeuc0.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
Here's the inner core which is to be discarded:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0133largera8.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Result of root preparation ===

{{Procedure
|Result of root preparation
|
The peeled inner root-bark now needs to dry. This may be accomplished by simply leaving it in the sun. Here's how it should look:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0160largehd1.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0150largesq4.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Breaking the rootbark up ===

{{Procedure
|Breaking the rootbark up
|
The pieces/strips of inner root-bark require further refinery to expose a larger surface area and increase the availability of the alkaloids for extraction. If storage is desired, then the whole pieces are preferable, as the alkaloids are less exposed and thus better protected.

First strip the pieces further into thinner layers with the hands, then cut it up with good scissors into smaller squares, then break it down in small amounts and short/medium bursts with a blender or coffee grinder (to prevent breaking of blender/grinder)
}}

== References ==
<references/>

== Links ==
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mimosa_hostilis Mimosa Hostilis on Wikipedia]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa ID stuff]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=369566#post369566 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=357670#post357670 Guide to Researching Psychoactive Plants: Resource List]

* [http://sharetheseeds.me/forum/index.php?topic=230.msg305#msg305 STS: Practical Resources for Plant ID and description]

[[Category:Botanicals]]

Acacia spp.

2014-05-13T01:39:13Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Relevant links */

== General acacia info ==

[[Acacia]] plants are found all over the world and are potential sources for psychoactive [[tryptamines]]. Nevertheless, some acacias are endangered, hard to find, not high yielding or with bad alkaloid profile, so care must be taken when selecting an Acacia source for extracting or as ayahuasca analogue or extraction, and for how to extract it.

For a lot of good acacia info, check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 this] thread

== Comparative alkaloid content ==

For information on sustainable harvesting, Acacia yields, how to extract and alkaloid content, check the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Acacia Information Thread] and the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=27722 Acacia Analysis Thread] for a lot more info.

== Cultivation ==
'''Seeds:''' develop 1-4 months after flowering (usually at least two specimens required
in cultivation to allow cross-polination) ; viable 10-50 years (or more if stored well)

'''Germination:'''
Studies and research was conducted evaluating the most effective methods for germination of Acacia seeds. This included:

* Water (control)

* Boiling water soak (10 mins)

* Sulphuric Acid soak (1hr), follow by tap water rinse

* Mechanical scarification

A general conclusion was that for the species with the larger seed weight, the highest germination was achieved using sulphuric acid, and for smaller seed, the highest germination was achieved using scarification and boiling water. <ref>Reference: Ghassali, F., Salkini, A. K., Petersen, S. L., Niane, A. A., and Louhaichi, M. 2012. Germination dynamics of Acacia species under different seed treatments.
Range Mgmt. & Agroforestry 33(1): 37-42</ref>

For boiling water soak or scarification, place seeds in saucepan of water and bring to boil over 7-10 minutes, or carefully damage hard outer coat with scissors or file being careful not to hit the internal 'germ';
leave soaking in water, they should slightly swell over 24hrs..then place in soft moist medium such as moss or wet tissue..as sprouts they are very delicate and should not be allowed to dry out or be moved until their first root is a few cm

'''Seedling Care:''' after a couple of weeks the sprouts can be potted in a sand +cocoa/peat moss or other well drained but moisture retaining medium..in the first 2-3 months their roots must not be allowed to dry out or they'll die..they respond well to light and regular watering..when they have no more juvenile leaves (mimosa-like) they are more robust.

'''Fertilizer:''' use nitrogen rich slow release fertilizers (avoid phosphorus), ash also good supplement.

'''Long Term Care/ Planting:''' acacias will develop more quickly & become larger in the right ground conditions..well drained (e.g moist sandy), lots of sun, water & nutrient, low acidity, no competing grasses..growth rates of 5-7ft in 3-4 years (from germination) are attainable in cultivation..some smaller species like a. phlebophylla may be suited to long-term large tub growing, if indoors lots of light required..pruning of branches every few years should not cause much harm to large trees..

'''Conditions:''' most southern australian acacias tolerate frost and winter conditions in the low minus range; a few weeks of snow is ok for a few; once established they are drought resistant and should no longer require watering, but still respond well to fertilizer..

== Suppliers ==

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=39 Supplier section]

== Extraction teks ==

Different extraction teks used for other DMT containing plant can work theoretically for Acacia too, but there are 3 main issues with extracting from phalaris:

1- Finding a plant that yields decently

2- Finding a plant with good alkaloid profile

3- Dealing with plant impurities/chlorophyl/fats

For these reasons, one will more likely have good results if one extracts from a plant with consistent high yield

Heptane/hexane/naphtha recrystallizations can clean up from some of the potential unwanted alkaloids but can also eliminate certain possibly wanted alkaloids (NMT, DMT N-oxide, etc)

For separating from fats, fumarate precipitation such as FASI on limonene or FASA on xylene could potentially be a way to bypass the need for defats.

See [[:Category:Extraction Tek|Extraction teks]]

== Acacia list ==

* [[Acacia abbatiana]]
* [[Acacia abbreviata]]
* [[Acacia abrupta]]
* [[Acacia acanthaster]]
* [[Acacia acanthoclada]]
* [[Acacia acellerata]]
* [[Acacia acinacea]]
* [[Acacia aciphylla]]
* [[Acacia acoma]]
* [[Acacia acradenia]]
* [[Acacia acrionastes]]
* [[Acacia acuaria]]
* [[Acacia aculeatissima]]
* [[Acacia aculeiformis]]
* [[Acacia acuminata]]
* [[Acacia acutata]]
* [[Acacia adenogonia]]
* [[Acacia adinophylla]]
* [[Acacia adnata]]
* [[Acacia adoxa]]
* [[Acacia adsurgens]]
* [[Acacia adunca]]
* [[Acacia aemula]]
* [[Acacia aestivalis]]
* [[Acacia alata]]
* [[Acacia alaticaulis]]
* [[Acacia albida (Faidherbia albida)]]
* [[Acacia alcockii]]
* [[Acacia alexandri]]
* [[Acacia alleniana]]
* [[Acacia alpina]]
* [[Acacia amanda]]
* [[Acacia amblygona]]
* [[Acacia amblyophylla]]
* [[Acacia amentifera]]
* [[Acacia ammobia]]
* [[Acacia ammophila]]
* [[Acacia amoena]]
* [[Acacia ampliata]]
* [[Acacia ampliceps]]
* [[Acacia amyctica]]
* [[Acacia anasilla]]
* [[Acacia anastema]]
* [[Acacia anastomosa]]
* [[Acacia anaticeps]]
* [[Acacia anceps]]
* [[Acacia ancistrocarpa]]
* [[Acacia ancistrophylla]]
* [[Acacia andrewsii]]
* [[Acacia aneura]]
* [[Acacia anfractuosa]]
* [[Acacia angusta]]
* [[Acacia angustifolia]]
* [[Acacia angustissima]]
* [[Acacia anomala]]
* [[Acacia anserina]]
* [[Acacia anthochaera]]
* [[Acacia aphylla]]
* [[Acacia applanata]]
* [[Acacia aprepta]]
* [[Acacia aprica]]
* [[Acacia aptaneura]]
* [[Acacia arafurica]]
* [[Acacia araneosa]]
* [[Acacia arbiana]]
* [[Acacia arcuatilis]]
* [[Acacia areolata]]
* [[Acacia argentina]]
* [[Acacia argutifolia]]
* [[Acacia argyraea]]
* [[Acacia argyrodendron]]
* [[Acacia argyrophylla]]
* [[Acacia argyrotricha]]
* [[Acacia arida]]
* [[Acacia aristulata]]
* [[Acacia armillata]]
* [[Acacia armitii]]
* [[Acacia arrecta]]
* [[Acacia ascendens]]
* [[Acacia asepala]]
* [[Acacia ashbyae]]
* [[Acacia asparagoides]]
* [[Acacia aspera]]
* [[Acacia asperulacea]]
* [[Acacia assimilis]]
* [[Acacia ataxiphylla]]
* [[Acacia atkinsiana]]
* [[Acacia atopa]]
* [[Acacia atrox]]
* [[Acacia attenuata]]
* [[Acacia aulacocarpa]]
* [[Acacia aulacophylla]]
* [[Acacia auratiflora]]
* [[Acacia aureocrinita]]
* [[Acacia auricoma]]
* [[Acacia auriculiformis]]
* [[Acacia auripila]]
* [[Acacia auronitens]]
* [[Acacia ausfeldii]]
* [[Acacia awestoniana]]
* [[Acacia axillaris]]
* [[Acacia ayersiana]]

* [[Acacia baeuerlenii]]
* [[Acacia baileyana]]
* [[Acacia bakeri]]
* [[Acacia balsamea]]
* [[Acacia bancroftiorum]]
* [[Acacia barakulensis]]
* [[Acacia barattensis]]
* [[Acacia barbinervis]]
* [[Acacia barrettiorum]]
* [[Acacia barringtonensis]]
* [[Acacia bartlei]]
* [[Acacia basedowii]]
* [[Acacia baueri]]
* [[Acacia baxteri]]
* [[Acacia beadleana]]
* [[Acacia beauverdiana]]
* [[Acacia beckleri]]
* [[Acacia benthamii]]
* [[Acacia berlandieri]]
* [[Acacia betchei]]
* [[Acacia bidentata]]
* [[Acacia bifaria]]
* [[Acacia biflora]]
* [[Acacia binata]]
* [[Acacia binervata]]
* [[Acacia binervia]]
* [[Acacia bivenosa]]
* [[Acacia blakei]]
* [[Acacia blakelyi]]
* [[Acacia blaxellii]]
* [[Acacia blayana]]
* [[Acacia boormanii]]
* [[Acacia botrydion]]
* [[Acacia brachybotrya]]
* [[Acacia brachycarpa]]
* [[Acacia brachyclada]]
* [[Acacia brachyphylla]]
* [[Acacia brachypoda]]
* [[Acacia brachystachya]]
* [[Acacia bracteolata]]
* [[Acacia brassii]]
* [[Acacia brockii]]
* [[Acacia bromilowiana]]
* [[Acacia brownii]]
* [[Acacia brumalis]]
* [[Acacia brunioides]]
* [[Acacia bulgaensis]]
* [[Acacia burbidgeae]]
* [[Acacia burdekensis]]
* [[Acacia burkittii]]
* [[Acacia burrana]]
* [[Acacia burrowii]]
* [[Acacia burrowsiana]]
* [[Acacia buxifolia]]
* [[Acacia bynoeana]]

* [[Acacia caerulescens]]
* [[Acacia caesaneura]]
* [[Acacia caesariata]]
* [[Acacia caesiella]]
* [[Acacia calamifolia]]
* [[Acacia calantha]]
* [[Acacia calcarata]]
* [[Acacia calcicola]]
* [[Acacia calligera]]
* [[Acacia calyculata]]
* [[Acacia cambagei]]
* [[Acacia camptocarpa]]
* [[Acacia camptoclada]]
* [[Acacia campylophylla]]
* [[Acacia cana]]
* [[Acacia cangaiensis]]
* [[Acacia capillaris]]
* [[Acacia cardiophylla]]
* [[Acacia carens]]
* [[Acacia carneorum]]
* [[Acacia carnosula]]
* [[Acacia caroleae]]
* [[Acacia cassicula]]
* [[Acacia castanostegia]]
* [[Acacia cataractae]]
* [[Acacia catechu]]
* [[Acacia catenulata]]
* [[Acacia cavealis]]
* [[Acacia caven]]
* [[Acacia cedroides]]
* [[Acacia celastrifolia]]
* [[Acacia celsa]]
* [[Acacia centrinervia]]
* [[Acacia cerastes]]
* [[Acacia chalkeri]]
* [[Acacia chamaeleon]]
* [[Acacia chapmanii]]
* [[Acacia chartacea]]
* [[Acacia cheelii]]
* [[Acacia chinchillensis]]
* [[Acacia chippendalei]]
* [[Acacia chisholmii]]
* [[Acacia chrysella]]
* [[Acacia chrysocephala]]
* [[Acacia chrysochaeta]]
* [[Acacia chrysopoda]]
* [[Acacia chrysotricha]]
* [[Acacia cincinnata]]
* [[Acacia citrinoviridis]]
* [[Acacia clandullensis]]
* [[Acacia claviseta]]
* [[Acacia clelandii]]
* [[Acacia clunies-rossiae]]
* [[Acacia clydonophora]]
* [[Acacia cochlearis]]
* [[Acacia cochlocarpa]]
* [[Acacia cockertoniana]]
* [[Acacia cognata]]
* [[Acacia colei]]
* [[Acacia colletioides]]
* [[Acacia comans]]
* [[Acacia complanata]]
* [[Acacia concolorans]]
* [[Acacia concurrens]]
* [[Acacia conferta]]
* [[Acacia confluens]]
* [[Acacia confusa]]
* [[Acacia congesta]]
* [[Acacia conjunctifolia]]
* [[Acacia conniana]]
* [[Acacia consanguinea]]
* [[Acacia consobrina]]
* [[Acacia conspersa]]
* [[Acacia constablei]]
* [[Acacia constricta]]
* [[Acacia continua]]
* [[Acacia convallium]]
* [[Acacia coolgardiensis]]
* [[Acacia coriacea]]
* [[Acacia cornigera]]
* [[Acacia costata]]
* [[Acacia costiniana]]
* [[Acacia courtii]]
* [[Acacia covenyi]]
* [[Acacia cowaniana]]
* [[Acacia cowleana]]
* [[Acacia cracentis]]
* [[Acacia craspedocarpa]]
* [[Acacia crassa]]
* [[Acacia crassicarpa]]
* [[Acacia crassistipula]]
* [[Acacia crassiuscula]]
* [[Acacia crassuloides]]
* [[Acacia cremiflora]]
* [[Acacia crenulata]]
* [[Acacia cretacea]]
* [[Acacia cretata]]
* [[Acacia crispula]]
* [[Acacia crombiei]]
* [[Acacia cultriformis]]
* [[Acacia cummingiana]]
* [[Acacia cuneifolia]]
* [[Acacia cupularis]]
* [[Acacia curranii]]
* [[Acacia curvata]]
* [[Acacia cuspidifolia]]
* [[Acacia cuthbertsonii]]
* [[Acacia cyclocarpa]]
* [[Acacia cyclops]]
* [[Acacia cylindrica]]
* [[Acacia cyperophylla]]

* [[Acacia dacrydioides]]
* [[Acacia dallachiana]]
* [[Acacia dangarensis]]
* [[Acacia daphnifolia]]
* [[Acacia daviesii]]
* [[Acacia daviesioides]]
* [[Acacia dawsonii]]
* [[Acacia dealbata]]
* [[Acacia deanei]]
* [[Acacia debilis]]
* [[Acacia declinata]]
* [[Acacia decora]]
* [[Acacia decurrens]]
* [[Acacia deficiens]]
* [[Acacia deflexa]]
* [[Acacia delibrata]]
* [[Acacia delicatula]]
* [[Acacia delphina]]
* [[Acacia deltoidea]]
* [[Acacia demissa]]
* [[Acacia dempsteri]]
* [[Acacia densiflora]]
* [[Acacia denticulosa]]
* [[Acacia dentifera]]
* [[Acacia depressa]]
* [[Acacia dermatophylla]]
* [[Acacia derwentiana]]
* [[Acacia desertorum]]
* [[Acacia desmondii]]
* [[Acacia deuteroneura]]
* [[Acacia diallaga]]
* [[Acacia diaphana]]
* [[Acacia diaphyllodinea]]
* [[Acacia diastemata]]
* [[Acacia dictyocarpa]]
* [[Acacia dictyoneura]]
* [[Acacia dictyophleba]]
* [[Acacia didyma]]
* [[Acacia dielsii]]
* [[Acacia dietrichiana]]
* [[Acacia difficilis]]
* [[Acacia difformis]]
* [[Acacia dilatata]]
* [[Acacia dimidiata]]
* [[Acacia diminuta]]
* [[Acacia dimorpha]]
* [[Acacia disparrima]]
* [[Acacia dissimilis]]
* [[Acacia dissona]]
* [[Acacia distans]]
* [[Acacia disticha]]
* [[Acacia divergens]]
* [[Acacia dodonaeifolia]]
* [[Acacia dolichophylla]]
* [[Acacia donaldsonii]]
* [[Acacia doratoxylon]]
* [[Acacia dorothea]]
* [[Acacia dorsenna]]
* [[Acacia drepanocarpa]]
* [[Acacia drepanophylla]]
* [[Acacia drummondii]]
* [[Acacia dunnii]]
* [[Acacia dura]]
* [[Acacia durabilis]]
* [[Acacia duriuscula]]

* [[Acacia echinula]]
* [[Acacia echinuliflora]]
* [[Acacia effusa]]
* [[Acacia effusifolia]]
* [[Acacia elachantha]]
* [[Acacia elata]]
* [[Acacia elongata]]
* [[Acacia enervia]]
* [[Acacia ensifolia]]
* [[Acacia enterocarpa]]
* [[Acacia epedunculata]]
* [[Acacia ephedroides]]
* [[Acacia equisetifolia]]
* [[Acacia eremaea]]
* [[Acacia eremophila]]
* [[Acacia eremophiloides]]
* [[Acacia ericifolia]]
* [[Acacia ericksoniae]]
* [[Acacia erinacea]]
* [[Acacia erioclada]]
* [[Acacia eriopoda]]
* [[Acacia errabunda]]
* [[Acacia estrophiolata]]
* [[Acacia euthycarpa]]
* [[Acacia euthyphylla]]
* [[Acacia evenulosa]]
* [[Acacia everistii]]
* [[Acacia excelsa]]
* [[Acacia excentrica]]
* [[Acacia exilis]]
* [[Acacia exocarpoides]]
* [[Acacia extensa]]
* [[Acacia exudans]]

* [[Acacia falcata]]
* [[Acacia falciformis]]
* [[Acacia farinosa]]
* [[Acacia fasciculifera]]
* [[Acacia faucium]]
* [[Acacia fauntleroyi]]
* [[Acacia fecunda]]
* [[Acacia ferocior]]
* [[Acacia filamentosa]]
* [[Acacia filicifolia]]
* [[Acacia filifolia]]
* [[Acacia filipes]]
* [[Acacia fimbriata]]
* [[Acacia flabellifolia]]
* [[Acacia flagelliformis]]
* [[Acacia flavescens]]
* [[Acacia flavipila]]
* [[Acacia fleckeri]]
* [[Acacia flexifolia]]
* [[Acacia flocktoniae]]
* [[Acacia floribunda]]
* [[Acacia floydii]]
* [[Acacia fodinalis]]
* [[Acacia formidabilis]]
* [[Acacia forrestiana]]
* [[Acacia forsythii]]
* [[Acacia fragilis]]
* [[Acacia frigescens]]
* [[Acacia froggattii]]
* [[Acacia fulva]]
* [[Acacia fuscaneura]]

* [[Acacia galeata]]
* [[Acacia galioides]]
* [[Acacia gardneri]]
* [[Acacia gelasina]]
* [[Acacia gemina]]
* [[Acacia genistifolia]]
* [[Acacia georgensis]]
* [[Acacia georginae]]
* [[Acacia gibbosa]]
* [[Acacia gibsonii]]
* [[Acacia gilesiana]]
* [[Acacia gillii]]
* [[Acacia gittinsii]]
* [[Acacia gladiiformis]]
* [[Acacia glandulicarpa]]
* [[Acacia glaucissima]]
* [[Acacia glaucocaesia]]
* [[Acacia glaucocarpa]]
* [[Acacia glaucoptera]]
* [[Acacia gloeotricha]]
* [[Acacia glutinosissima]]
* [[Acacia gnidium]]
* [[Acacia gonocarpa]]
* [[Acacia gonoclada]]
* [[Acacia gonophylla]]
* [[Acacia gordonii]]
* [[Acacia gracilenta]]
* [[Acacia gracilifolia]]
* [[Acacia graciliformis]]
* [[Acacia gracillima]]
* [[Acacia grandifolia]]
* [[Acacia graniticola]]
* [[Acacia grasbyi]]
* [[Acacia gregorii]]
* [[Acacia gunnii]]
* [[Acacia guymeri]]

* [[Acacia hadrophylla]]
* [[Acacia hakeoides]]
* [[Acacia halliana]]
* [[Acacia hamersleyensis]]
* [[Acacia hamiltoniana]]
* [[Acacia hammondii]]
* [[Acacia handonis]]
* [[Acacia harpophylla]]
* [[Acacia harveyi]]
* [[Acacia hastulata]]
* [[Acacia havilandiorum]]
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* [[Acacia hilliana]]
* [[Acacia hippuroides]]
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* [[Acacia hockingsii]]
* [[Acacia holosericea]]
* [[Acacia holotricha]]
* [[Acacia homaloclada]]
* [[Acacia homalophylla]]
* [[Acacia hopperiana]]
* [[Acacia horridula]]
* [[Acacia howittii]]
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* [[Acacia humifusa]]
* [[Acacia hyaloneura]]
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* [[Acacia hystrix]]

* [[Acacia idiomorpha]]
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* [[Acacia juncifolia]]

* [[Acacia kalgoorliensis]]
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* [[Acacia kydrensis]]

* [[Acacia laccata]]
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* [[Acacia lysiphloia]]

* [[Acacia mabellae]]
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* [[Acacia mimula]]
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* [[Acacia mitchellii]]
* [[Acacia mitodes]]
* [[Acacia mollifolia]]
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* [[Acacia myrtifolia]]

* [[Acacia nana]]
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* [[Acacia nubica]]
* [[Acacia nuperrima]]
* [[Acacia nyssophylla]]

* [[Acacia obesa]]
* [[Acacia obliquinervia]]
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* [[Acacia obtecta]]
* [[Acacia obtriangularis]]
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* [[Acacia obtusifolia]]
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* [[Acacia oligoneura]]
* [[Acacia olsenii]]
* [[Acacia ommatosperma]]
* [[Acacia oncinocarpa]]
* [[Acacia oncinophylla]]
* [[Acacia ophiolithica]]
* [[Acacia oraria]]
* [[Acacia orbifolia]]
* [[Acacia orites]]
* [[Acacia orthocarpa]]
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* [[Acacia orthotropica]]
* [[Acacia oshanesii]]
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* [[Acacia oxycedrus]]
* [[Acacia oxycedrus x sophorae]]
* [[Acacia oxyclada]]

* [[Acacia pachyacra]]
* [[Acacia pachycarpa]]
* [[Acacia pachyphylla]]
* [[Acacia pachypoda]]
* [[Acacia palustris]]
* [[Acacia papulosa]]
* [[Acacia papyrocarpa]]
* [[Acacia paradoxa]]
* [[Acacia paraneura]]
* [[Acacia parramattensis]]
* [[Acacia parvipinnula]]
* [[Acacia pataczekii]]
* [[Acacia patagiata]]
* [[Acacia paula]]
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* [[Acacia pedleyi]]
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* [[Acacia pelophila]]
* [[Acacia pendula]]
* [[Acacia penninervis]]
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* [[Acacia peregrinalis]]
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* [[Acacia peuce]]
* [[Acacia phacelia]]
* [[Acacia phaeocalyx]]
* [[Acacia pharangites]]
* [[Acacia phasmoides]]
* [[Acacia phlebocarpa]]
* [[Acacia phlebopetala]]
* [[Acacia phlebophylla]]
* [[Acacia pickardii]]
* [[Acacia piligera]]
* [[Acacia pilligaensis]]
* [[Acacia pinguiculosa]]
* [[Acacia pinguifolia]]
* [[Acacia platycarpa]]
* [[Acacia plautella]]
* [[Acacia plectocarpa]]
* [[Acacia podalyriifolia]]
* [[Acacia polifolia]]
* [[Acacia poliochroa]]
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* [[Acacia polyadenia]]
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* [[Acacia porcata]]
* [[Acacia praelongata]]
* [[Acacia praemorsa]]
* [[Acacia praetermissa]]
* [[Acacia prainii]]
* [[Acacia pravifolia]]
* [[Acacia pravissima]]
* [[Acacia prismifolia]]
* [[Acacia pritzeliana]]
* [[Acacia producta]]
* [[Acacia profusa]]
* [[Acacia proiantha]]
* [[Acacia prolata]]
* [[Acacia prominens]]
* [[Acacia provincialis]]
* [[Acacia pruinocarpa]]
* [[Acacia pruinosa]]
* [[Acacia pteraneura]]
* [[Acacia pterocaulon]]
* [[Acacia ptychoclada]]
* [[Acacia ptychophylla]]
* [[Acacia pubescens]]
* [[Acacia pubicosta]]
* [[Acacia pubifolia]]
* [[Acacia pubirhachis]]
* [[Acacia pulviniformis]]
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* [[Acacia purpureopetala]]
* [[Acacia pusilla]]
* [[Acacia pustula]]
* [[Acacia pycnantha]]
* [[Acacia pycnocephala]]
* [[Acacia pycnostachya]]
* [[Acacia pygmaea]]
* [[Acacia pyrifolia]]

* [[Acacia quadrilateralis]]
* [[Acacia quadrimarginea]]
* [[Acacia quadrisulcata]]
* [[Acacia quinquenervia]]
* [[Acacia quornensis]]

* [[Acacia racospermoides]]
* [[Acacia ramiflora]]
* [[Acacia ramulosa]]
* [[Acacia recurvata]]
* [[Acacia redolens]]
* [[Acacia rendlei]]
* [[Acacia repanda]]
* [[Acacia repens]]
* [[Acacia resinicostata]]
* [[Acacia resinimarginea]]
* [[Acacia resinistipulea]]
* [[Acacia resinosa]]
* [[Acacia restiacea]]
* [[Acacia retinervis]]
* [[Acacia retinodes]]
* [[Acacia retivenea]]
* [[Acacia retrorsa]]
* [[Acacia rhamphophylla]]
* [[Acacia rhetinocarpa]]
* [[Acacia rhigiophylla]]
* [[Acacia rhodophloia]]
* [[Acacia rhodoxylon]]
* [[Acacia riceana]]
* [[Acacia richardsii]]
* [[Acacia richii]]
* [[Acacia ridleyana]]
* [[Acacia rigens]]
* [[Acacia rigescens]]
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* [[Acacia rigidula]]
* [[Acacia rivalis]]
* [[Acacia robeorum]]
* [[Acacia robiniae]]
* [[Acacia rossei]]
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* [[Acacia rostellifera]]
* [[Acacia rostriformis]]
* [[Acacia rothii]]
* [[Acacia roycei]]
* [[Acacia rubida]]
* [[Acacia rubricaulis]]
* [[Acacia rubricola]]
* [[Acacia rupicola]]
* [[Acacia ruppii]]
* [[Acacia ryaniana]]

* [[Acacia sabulosa]]
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* [[Acacia saligna]]
* [[Acacia saxatilis]]
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* [[Acacia sclerophylla]]
* [[Acacia sclerosperma]]
* [[Acacia scopulorum]]
* [[Acacia seclusa]]
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* [[Acacia senegal]]
* [[Acacia sericata]]
* [[Acacia sericocarpa]]
* [[Acacia sericoflora]]
* [[Acacia sericophylla]]
* [[Acacia serpentinicola]]
* [[Acacia sertiformis]]
* [[Acacia sessilis]]
* [[Acacia sessilispica]]
* [[Acacia setulifera]]
* [[Acacia shirleyi]]
* [[Acacia shuttleworthii]]
* [[Acacia sibilans]]
* [[Acacia sibina]]
* [[Acacia sibirica]]
* [[Acacia siculiformis]]
* [[Acacia sieberiana]]
* [[Acacia signata]]
* [[Acacia silvestris]]
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* [[Acacia singula]]
* [[Acacia smeringa]]
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* [[Acacia sorophylla]]
* [[Acacia spania]]
* [[Acacia sparsiflora]]
* [[Acacia spathulifolia]]
* [[Acacia speckii]]
* [[Acacia spectabilis]]
* [[Acacia spectra]]
* [[Acacia sphacelata]]
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* [[Acacia spinescens]]
* [[Acacia spinosissima]]
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* [[Acacia splendens]]
* [[Acacia spondylophylla]]
* [[Acacia spongolitica]]
* [[Acacia spooneri]]
* [[Acacia sporadica]]
* [[Acacia squamata]]
* [[Acacia stanleyi]]
* [[Acacia startii]]
* [[Acacia steedmanii]]
* [[Acacia stellaticeps]]
* [[Acacia stenophylla]]
* [[Acacia stenoptera]]
* [[Acacia stereophylla]]
* [[Acacia stictophylla]]
* [[Acacia stigmatophylla]]
* [[Acacia stipuligera]]
* [[Acacia stipulosa]]
* [[Acacia storyi]]
* [[Acacia striatifolia]]
* [[Acacia stricta]]
* [[Acacia strongylophylla]]
* [[Acacia suaveolens]]
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* [[Acacia sulcata]]
* [[Acacia sulcaticaulis]]
* [[Acacia symonii]]
* [[Acacia synantha]]
* [[Acacia synchronicia]]
* [[Acacia synoria]]

* [[Acacia tabula]]
* [[Acacia tarculensis]]
* [[Acacia telmica]]
* [[Acacia tenuinervis]]
* [[Acacia tenuior]]
* [[Acacia tenuispica]]
* [[Acacia tenuissima]]
* [[Acacia tephrina]]
* [[Acacia teretifolia]]
* [[Acacia terminalis]]
* [[Acacia tessellata]]
* [[Acacia tetanophylla]]
* [[Acacia tetragonocarpa]]
* [[Acacia tetragonophylla]]
* [[Acacia tetraneura]]
* [[Acacia tetraptera]]
* [[Acacia thoma]]
* [[Acacia thomsonii]]
* [[Acacia tindaleae]]
* [[Acacia tingoorensis]]
* [[Acacia tolmerensis]]
* [[Acacia toondulya]]
* [[Acacia torringtonensis]]
* [[Acacia torticarpa]]
* [[Acacia tortilis]]
* [[Acacia torulosa]]
* [[Acacia trachycarpa]]
* [[Acacia trachyphloia]]
* [[Acacia translucens]]
* [[Acacia tratmaniana]]
* [[Acacia trigonophylla]]
* [[Acacia trinalis]]
* [[Acacia trinervata]]
* [[Acacia trineura]]
* [[Acacia triptera]]
* [[Acacia triptycha]]
* [[Acacia triquetra]]
* [[Acacia tropica]]
* [[Acacia truculenta]]
* [[Acacia trudgeniana]]
* [[Acacia trulliformis]]
* [[Acacia truncata]]
* [[Acacia tuberculata]]
* [[Acacia tumida]]
* [[Acacia tysonii]]

* [[Acacia ulicifolia]]
* [[Acacia ulicina]]
* [[Acacia uliginosa]]
* [[Acacia umbellata]]
* [[Acacia umbraculiformis]]
* [[Acacia uncifera]]
* [[Acacia uncifolia]]
* [[Acacia uncinata]]
* [[Acacia uncinella]]
* [[Acacia undoolyana]]
* [[Acacia undosa]]
* [[Acacia undulifolia]]
* [[Acacia unguicula]]
* [[Acacia unifissilis]]
* [[Acacia urophylla]]

* [[Acacia validinervia]]
* [[Acacia vassalii]]
* [[Acacia venulosa]]
* [[Acacia verniciflua]]
* [[Acacia veronica]]
* [[Acacia verricula]]
* [[Acacia verticillata]]
* [[Acacia vestita]]
* [[Acacia victoriae]]
* [[Acacia vincentii]]
* [[Acacia viscidula]]
* [[Acacia viscifolia]]
* [[Acacia vittata]]
* [[Acacia volubilis]]

* [[Acacia walkeri]]
* [[Acacia wanyu]]
* [[Acacia wardellii]]
* [[Acacia warramaba]]
* [[Acacia wattsiana]]
* [[Acacia webbii]]
* [[Acacia websteri]]
* [[Acacia wetarensis]]
* [[Acacia whibleyana]]
* [[Acacia whitei]]
* [[Acacia wickhamii]]
* [[Acacia wilcoxii]]
* [[Acacia wilhelmiana]]
* [[Acacia willdenowiana]]
* [[Acacia williamsiana]]
* [[Acacia williamsonii]]
* [[Acacia willingii]]
* [[Acacia wilsonii]]
* [[Acacia wiseana]]
* [[Acacia woodmaniorum]]

* [[Acacia xanthina]]
* [[Acacia xanthocarpa]]
* [[Acacia xanthophloea]]
* [[Acacia xerophila]]
* [[Acacia xiphophylla]]

* [[Acacia yirrkallensis]]
* [[Acacia yorkrakinensis]]

* [[Acacia zatrichota]]

== Relevant links ==

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Trying to improve Acacia information]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33648 Acacia Identification Thread]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia ID stuff.zip]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=36371 Acacia photo gallery]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=357670#post357670 Guide to Researching Psychoactive Plants: Resource List]

* [http://sharetheseeds.me/forum/index.php?topic=230.msg305#msg305 STS: Practical Resources for Plant ID and description]

== References ==
<references/>

Mimosa hostilis

2014-05-13T01:38:59Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Links */

[[Image:Mimosa Hostilis.jpg|thumb|right|300px|''Mimosa hostilis'']]
[[Image:Mimosaclose.jpg|thumb|right|300px|''Mimosa hostilis seed pod'']]
[[Image:Mimosaflowers.jpg|thumb|right|300px|''Mimosa hostilis flower'']]

== General Plant Info ==

'''''Mimosa hostilis''''' is the former scientific name for '''''Mimosa tenuiflora''''', and the two names are synonymous
<ref>USDA, ARS, National Genetic Resources Program. Germplasm Resources Information Network - (GRIN) [Online Database]. National Germplasm Resources Laboratory, Beltsville, Maryland. URL: http://www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bin/npgs/html/taxon.pl?24430</ref><ref>Lewis, G.P. (1987) Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew 369 pp Legumes of Bahia.</ref>. The older name is still widely know due to its presence in the literature and as distributers of botanical products still use the older term. ''M. tenuiflora'' is an entheogen known as ''Jurema'', ''Jurema Preta'', ''Black Jurema'', and ''Vinho de Jurema''. Dried Mexican ''Mimosa Hostilis'' root bark has been recently shown to have a DMT content of about 1%. The stem bark has about 0.03% DMT.

To date no β-carbolines such as harmala alkaloids have been detected in ''Mimosa tenuiflora'' decoctions, however the isolation of a new compound called "Yuremamine" from ''Mimosa tenuiflora'' as reported in 2005 represents a new class of phyto-indoles <ref>Vepsäläinen, Jouko J.; Auriola, Seppo; Tukiainen, Mikko; Ropponen, Nina & Callaway, J.C. (2005). "Isolation and characterization of yuremamine, a new phytoindole". Planta Medica, 71: 1053-1057. URL: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16320208</ref>. This may explain the reported oral activity of DMT in Jurema without the addition of an MAOI. Imported MHRB typically requires the addition of an MAOI in the preparation of ayahuasca.

== Identification ==

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=283798#post283798 Post on identification of Mimosa hostilis vs Mimosa ophthalmocentra]

== Alkaloid content ==

* Root Bark contains DMT - 0.31% to 0.57% (Schultes 1977)
* Inner root bark contains up to 2% active alkaloids (Extractions from DMT-Nexus and others)
* 3% of the total alkaloids (or 0.04% of rootbark) is NMT and 2-Methyl-1,2,3,4-Tetrahydro-Beta-Carboline ([https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=10553 Analysis of jungle spice], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=19320 Analysis of red/yellow/white spices]

== Extraction teks ==

For extracting DMT , any of the extraction teks described [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Extraction_Tek#DMT here] will work.

Yuremamine is sensitive to heat and pH changes so only cold water (or alcoholic) soak will retrieve it.

== Cultivation ==

'''Growing''': Mimosas aren´t cold proof. For outdoor growing they deserve a sunny place with leachy middle nutrient soil. Throughout the vegetation are copiously watered, in winter the watering is tied down on to the minimum. They are breeding with the seeds, but can be breeded with the cutting also.

== Refinery for the Purpose of Extraction ==

[[MHRB|Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark]] can be acquired in different stages of preparation. Usually it is sold as ''whole'', ''shredded'' or ''pre-powdered'' root-bark, but one may have access to the whole root—usually when harvested directly.
* The whole root must cleaned and stripped of its inner root-bark while discarding the rest of the root.
* The whole root-bark must generally be torn by hand, cut, or smashed with a blunt object prior to shredding.
* The shredded should be further broken down as much as possible by peeling/cutting/blending to increase surface area for alkaloids to be extracted.
* The pre-powdered can always be used "as-is".

Below details how to break it from whole root

=== The Root ===

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|Only the '''Inner Root Bark''' is necessary for extraction, the ''core'' and ''outer parts'' are to be discarded!}}

{{Procedure
|Root preparation
|
Pictured below is its original after being harvested from the plant. Notice the middle core is quite distinct from the root-bark, the outer bark is much more brown:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:MHR.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0138largehu6.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0158largeux3.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0136largedg2.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Cleaning the root ===

{{Procedure
|Cleaning The Root
|
The first step in refinery is to brush the outside to remove the dirt. Then the outer bark must be lightly scraped with a good knife. It is preferable to remove at least some of the outermost layer to uncover the more blackish and purplish layer underneath:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0145largemx8.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0126largevu7.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0125largegc6.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Peeling the Inner Root Bark ===

{{Procedure
|Peeling the Inner Root Bark
|
Once the outermost part has been removed, peel off the Inner Root Bark to separate it from the core. This can easily be accomplished immediately by hand, though the use of a knife may be helpful.
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0128largeys9.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0130largezp0.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0149largewh7.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0147largeuc0.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
Here's the inner core which is to be discarded:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0133largera8.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Result of root preparation ===

{{Procedure
|Result of root preparation
|
The peeled inner root-bark now needs to dry. This may be accomplished by simply leaving it in the sun. Here's how it should look:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0160largehd1.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0150largesq4.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Breaking the rootbark up ===

{{Procedure
|Breaking the rootbark up
|
The pieces/strips of inner root-bark require further refinery to expose a larger surface area and increase the availability of the alkaloids for extraction. If storage is desired, then the whole pieces are preferable, as the alkaloids are less exposed and thus better protected.

First strip the pieces further into thinner layers with the hands, then cut it up with good scissors into smaller squares, then break it down in small amounts and short/medium bursts with a blender or coffee grinder (to prevent breaking of blender/grinder)
}}

== References ==
<references/>

== Links ==
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mimosa_hostilis Mimosa Hostilis on Wikipedia]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa ID stuff]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=369566#post369566 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=36371 Acacia photo gallery]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=357670#post357670 Guide to Researching Psychoactive Plants: Resource List]

* [http://sharetheseeds.me/forum/index.php?topic=230.msg305#msg305 STS: Practical Resources for Plant ID and description]

[[Category:Botanicals]]

Category:DMT Containing Plants

2014-05-12T03:29:58Z

Cosmic Spore: /* WIKI -> Botanicals (link). */

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is to remain in accordance with the Botanical Transclusion Project, in which only a partial transclusion of each plant's individual page is to be included her in the form of an info box. The proper procedure to create a page for each plant is to transfer its info box from this page to its own page in the following manner:
{{ShowInfo/In Article|[[Image:Information.png]]|Format for Initial Page Creation
|
<nowiki>
{{Botanical Transclusion Header}}
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
<onlyinclude>
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
{{botanics_info|Plant Image|Plant Name|
* Alkaloid Content w/ Reference
|Optional Nickname
}}
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
</onlyinclude>
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
{{Wikipedia}}
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
== Reference ==
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
{{Page Footer}}
</nowiki>
}}
The Wikipedia transclusion may be replaced if personal authorship is desirable.
}}

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a work in progress -- its content throughout is not yet complete.}}

==[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Botanicals#Plants WIKI -> Botanicals] (link).==

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa.zip]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=369566#post369566 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia.zip]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Trying to improve Acacia information]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33648 Acacia Identification Thread]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=38229 The TOP 8 ACACIAS to Grow WORLDWIDE]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=357670#post357670 Guide to Researching Psychoactive Plants: Resource List]

[http://sharetheseeds.me/forum/index.php?topic=230.msg305#msg305 STS: Practical Resources for Plant ID and description]

==DMT Containing plants==
The following is a list of plants known to contain tryptamines.

=== Acacia ===
{{:Acacia_acuminata}}

{{:Acacia_alpina}}

{{:Acacia angustifolia}}

{{:Acacia angustissima}}

{{:Acacia auriculiformis}}

{{:Acacia baileyana}}

{{:Acacia berlandieri}}

{{:Acacia catechu}}

{{:Acacia caven}}

{{:Acacia colei}}

{{:Acacia complanata}}

{{:Acacia constricta}}

{{:Acacia confusa}}

{{:Acacia cornigera}}

{{:Acacia cultriformis}}

{{:Acacia farnesiana}}

{{:Acacia filiciana}}

{{:Acacia_floribunda}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia georginae|
* Psychoactive,[8] plus deadly toxins
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia greggii|
* N-methyl-β-phenethylamine,[12] phenethylamine[36]
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia harpophylla|
* Phenethylamine, hordenine at a ratio of 2:3 in dried leaves, 0.6% total[6]
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia holoserica|
* Hordenine, 1.2% in bark[6]
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia horrida|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia implexa|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia karroo|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia kempeana|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia kettlewelliae|
* 1.5[6]–1.88%[38] alkaloids, 92% consisting of phenylethylamine.[6] 0.9% N-methyl-2-phenylethylamine found a different time
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia laeta|
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia lingulata|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia longifolia|
* 0.2% tryptamine in bark, leaves, some in flowers, phenylethylamine in flowers (Hegnauer 1994)
* DMT in plant (Lyceaum)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia macradenia|
* Tryptamine
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia maidenii|
* Bark of A. maidenii contains 0.6% of N-methyltryptamine and DMT in the proportions approx. 2:3 (Fitzgerald & Sioumis 1965)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia mangium|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia melanoxylon|
* DMT in the bark and leaf, less than 0.02% total alkaloids (Hegnauer 1994)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia mellifera|
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia nilotica|
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia obtusifolia|
* 0.4 to 0.5 % DMT/NMT in the dried bark (Csiro 1990)
*0.15-0.6% DMT,NMT(2:1)plus trace betacarboline in bark, 0.06-0.2% leaves (Southern Cross University comissioned test 2001)
*5-MeoDMT & bufotenine in some loctations (E., Entheogen Review 1995-6; Trout's Notes 2005-10) Is not fast growing in the wild and is under threat of serious overharvesting. Is NOT considered a weed as previously stated here, and will become rarer if wild seed populations exploited further.(Nen, original bioassay subject)
{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia oerfota|
* Less than 0.1% DMT in leaf (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia penninervis|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia phlebophylla|
* 0.3% DMT in leaf, NMT (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia platensis|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia podalyriaefolia|
* Tryptamine in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
* 0.5% to 2% DMT in fresh bark, phenethylamine trace amounts (Hegnauer 1994)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia polyacantha|
* DMT in leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia pycantha|
* Psychoactive,[8] but less than 0.02% total alkaloids
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia retinodes|
* DMT and MMT (www.factorey.ch/Eins.htm)
* Less than 0.02% total alkaloids found (Hegnauer 1994)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia roemeriana|
* β-methyl-phenethylamine
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia rigidula|
* DMT, NMT, tryptamine, amphetamines, mescaline, nicotine and others (Phytochem. 199
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia salicina|
* Psychoactive[8][9] Ash used in Pituri.
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia sassa|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia schaffneri|
* β-methyl-phenethylamine, Phenethylamine[36] Amphetamines and mescaline also found
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia schottii|
* β-methyl-phenethylamine
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia senegal|
* DMT, in the leaf
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia simplex|
*DMT and NMT, in the leaf, stem and trunk bark, 0.81% DMT in bark, MMT
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia taxensis|
* β-methyl-phenethylamine
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia tenuifolia|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|File:290px-Eat267.jpg|Acacia tortilis|
* DMT, NMT, and other tryptamines
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia sieberiana|
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia verek|
* Psychoactive (Rätsch 2004)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia vestita|
* Tryptamine, in the leaf and stem (Trout's Notes)
* Less than 0.02% total alkaloids (Hegnauer 1994)
}}

=== Anadenanthera ===
{{:Anadenanthera colubrina}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Anadenanthera macrocarpa|
* Seed pods contain dimethyltryptamine and the seeds bufotenin, bufotenin oxide, and oxide of dimethyltryptamine (GRANIER-DOYEUX 1965)
}}

{{:Anadenanthera_peregrina}}

=== Common Reed ===
{{botanics_info|image:arundo_donax.jpg|Arundo donax|Entire Plant contains 5-MeO-DMT (Shulgin, TIHKAL)Flowers contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, and 5-MeO-NMT (Shulgin, TIHKAL)Roots contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, 5-MeO-NMT, Bufotenine, bufotenidine, dehydrobufotenidine (Shulgin, TIHKAL)}}

{{botanics_info|image:desmanthus.jpg|Desmanthus illinoensis|Root contains DMT - 0.200% (Ott)Root Bark contains DMT - 0.340% (Ott)}}

{{:Phalaris_arundinacea}}

{{botanics_info|image:phalaris_aquatica.jpg|Phalaris tuberosa|Leaves and seedlings contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, and related compounds (Smith 1977)DMT - 0.100% (erowid)5-MeO-DMT - 0.022% (erowid)5-OH-DMT - 0.005% (erowid)}}

{{:Phragmites_australis}}

=== Delosperma ===
{{botanics_info|Image:Delosperma acuminatum2.jpg|Delosperma acuminatum|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:delosperma_acuminatum.jpg|Delosperma cooperi|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:iceplantbrighteyes-may.jpg|Delosperma ecklonis|DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:Delosperma_esterhuyseniae.jpg|Delosperma esterhuyseniae|DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma hallii|5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma harazianum|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma hirtum|DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:DelospermaLydenbergense.jpg|Delosperma lydenbergense|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma nubigenum|5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma pageanum|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma pergamentaceum|Traces of DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:180px-Delosperma_tradescantioides_leafs_IMGP0042.jpg|Delosperma tradescantioides|DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

=== Desmodium ===
{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium caudatum|
* Roots: 0.087% DMT, Bufotenine-N-oxide 0.03% (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium gangeticum|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT, whole plant, roots, stems, leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium gyrans|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT, leaves, roots (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium pulchellum|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT, whole plant, roots, stems, leaves, flowers (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium racemosum|
* 5-MEO-DMT (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium triflorum|
* DMT-N-oxide, roots (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Lespedeza bicolor|var. japonica
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in leaves and root bark (Ott)
}}

=== Petalostylis ===
{{botanics_info|image:petalostylis_cassioides.jpg|Petalostylis cassioides|0.4-0.5% tryptamine, DMT, etc. in leaves and stems (Johns et al 1966)}}

=== Mimosa ===
{{:Mimosa hostilis}}

{{:Mimosa ophthalmocentra}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Mimosa scabrella|
* DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|File:250px-Mimosa_verrucosa01.jpg|Mimosa verrucosa|
* DMT (Schultes 1969)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Mucuna pruriens|
* Leaves, seeds, stems and roots contain L-Dopa, Serotonin, 5-HTP, and Nicotine, as well as N,N-DMT, Bufotenine, and 5-MeO-DMT (Erowid)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Petalostylis labicheoides|var. casseoides
* DMT in leaves and stems (Ott)
}}

{{:Diplopterys_cabrerana}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Horsfieldia superba|
* 5-MeO-DMT and beta-carbolines (Jossang et al. 1991)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Iryanthera ulei|
* 5-MEO-DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Osteophloem platyspermum|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

=== Virola===
{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola calophylla|
* Leaves 0.149% DMT (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola carinata|
* DMT in leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola divergens|
* DMT in leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola elongata|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark and leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola melinonii|
* DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola multinervia|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark and leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola pavonis|
* DMT in leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola peruviana|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola rufuta|
* Alkaloids in bark and root, 95% of which is 5-MeO-DMT (Shulgin, TIHKAL)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola sebifera|
* DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola theiodora|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark, roots, leaves and flowers (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola venosa|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in roots and leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Psychotria carthaginensis|
* 0.2% average DMT in dried leaves (Ott)
}}

{{:Psychotria_viridis}}

==Sources==

{{Page_Footer|Botanicals|DMT}}

Mimosa hostilis

2014-05-12T03:29:35Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Links */

[[Image:Mimosa Hostilis.jpg|thumb|right|300px|''Mimosa hostilis'']]
[[Image:Mimosaclose.jpg|thumb|right|300px|''Mimosa hostilis seed pod'']]
[[Image:Mimosaflowers.jpg|thumb|right|300px|''Mimosa hostilis flower'']]

== General Plant Info ==

'''''Mimosa hostilis''''' is the former scientific name for '''''Mimosa tenuiflora''''', and the two names are synonymous
<ref>USDA, ARS, National Genetic Resources Program. Germplasm Resources Information Network - (GRIN) [Online Database]. National Germplasm Resources Laboratory, Beltsville, Maryland. URL: http://www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bin/npgs/html/taxon.pl?24430</ref><ref>Lewis, G.P. (1987) Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew 369 pp Legumes of Bahia.</ref>. The older name is still widely know due to its presence in the literature and as distributers of botanical products still use the older term. ''M. tenuiflora'' is an entheogen known as ''Jurema'', ''Jurema Preta'', ''Black Jurema'', and ''Vinho de Jurema''. Dried Mexican ''Mimosa Hostilis'' root bark has been recently shown to have a DMT content of about 1%. The stem bark has about 0.03% DMT.

To date no β-carbolines such as harmala alkaloids have been detected in ''Mimosa tenuiflora'' decoctions, however the isolation of a new compound called "Yuremamine" from ''Mimosa tenuiflora'' as reported in 2005 represents a new class of phyto-indoles <ref>Vepsäläinen, Jouko J.; Auriola, Seppo; Tukiainen, Mikko; Ropponen, Nina & Callaway, J.C. (2005). "Isolation and characterization of yuremamine, a new phytoindole". Planta Medica, 71: 1053-1057. URL: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16320208</ref>. This may explain the reported oral activity of DMT in Jurema without the addition of an MAOI. Imported MHRB typically requires the addition of an MAOI in the preparation of ayahuasca.

== Identification ==

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=283798#post283798 Post on identification of Mimosa hostilis vs Mimosa ophthalmocentra]

== Alkaloid content ==

* Root Bark contains DMT - 0.31% to 0.57% (Schultes 1977)
* Inner root bark contains up to 2% active alkaloids (Extractions from DMT-Nexus and others)
* 3% of the total alkaloids (or 0.04% of rootbark) is NMT and 2-Methyl-1,2,3,4-Tetrahydro-Beta-Carboline ([https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=10553 Analysis of jungle spice], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=19320 Analysis of red/yellow/white spices]

== Extraction teks ==

For extracting DMT , any of the extraction teks described [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Extraction_Tek#DMT here] will work.

Yuremamine is sensitive to heat and pH changes so only cold water (or alcoholic) soak will retrieve it.

== Cultivation ==

'''Growing''': Mimosas aren´t cold proof. For outdoor growing they deserve a sunny place with leachy middle nutrient soil. Throughout the vegetation are copiously watered, in winter the watering is tied down on to the minimum. They are breeding with the seeds, but can be breeded with the cutting also.

== Refinery for the Purpose of Extraction ==

[[MHRB|Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark]] can be acquired in different stages of preparation. Usually it is sold as ''whole'', ''shredded'' or ''pre-powdered'' root-bark, but one may have access to the whole root—usually when harvested directly.
* The whole root must cleaned and stripped of its inner root-bark while discarding the rest of the root.
* The whole root-bark must generally be torn by hand, cut, or smashed with a blunt object prior to shredding.
* The shredded should be further broken down as much as possible by peeling/cutting/blending to increase surface area for alkaloids to be extracted.
* The pre-powdered can always be used "as-is".

Below details how to break it from whole root

=== The Root ===

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|Only the '''Inner Root Bark''' is necessary for extraction, the ''core'' and ''outer parts'' are to be discarded!}}

{{Procedure
|Root preparation
|
Pictured below is its original after being harvested from the plant. Notice the middle core is quite distinct from the root-bark, the outer bark is much more brown:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:MHR.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0138largehu6.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0158largeux3.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0136largedg2.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Cleaning the root ===

{{Procedure
|Cleaning The Root
|
The first step in refinery is to brush the outside to remove the dirt. Then the outer bark must be lightly scraped with a good knife. It is preferable to remove at least some of the outermost layer to uncover the more blackish and purplish layer underneath:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0145largemx8.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0126largevu7.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0125largegc6.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Peeling the Inner Root Bark ===

{{Procedure
|Peeling the Inner Root Bark
|
Once the outermost part has been removed, peel off the Inner Root Bark to separate it from the core. This can easily be accomplished immediately by hand, though the use of a knife may be helpful.
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0128largeys9.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0130largezp0.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0149largewh7.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0147largeuc0.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
Here's the inner core which is to be discarded:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0133largera8.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Result of root preparation ===

{{Procedure
|Result of root preparation
|
The peeled inner root-bark now needs to dry. This may be accomplished by simply leaving it in the sun. Here's how it should look:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0160largehd1.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0150largesq4.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Breaking the rootbark up ===

{{Procedure
|Breaking the rootbark up
|
The pieces/strips of inner root-bark require further refinery to expose a larger surface area and increase the availability of the alkaloids for extraction. If storage is desired, then the whole pieces are preferable, as the alkaloids are less exposed and thus better protected.

First strip the pieces further into thinner layers with the hands, then cut it up with good scissors into smaller squares, then break it down in small amounts and short/medium bursts with a blender or coffee grinder (to prevent breaking of blender/grinder)
}}

== References ==
<references/>

== Links ==
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mimosa_hostilis Mimosa Hostilis on Wikipedia]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa ID stuff]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=369566#post369566 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=357670#post357670 Guide to Researching Psychoactive Plants: Resource List]

* [http://sharetheseeds.me/forum/index.php?topic=230.msg305#msg305 STS: Practical Resources for Plant ID and description]

[[Category:Botanicals]]

Acacia spp.

2014-05-12T03:29:19Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Relevant links */

== General acacia info ==

[[Acacia]] plants are found all over the world and are potential sources for psychoactive [[tryptamines]]. Nevertheless, some acacias are endangered, hard to find, not high yielding or with bad alkaloid profile, so care must be taken when selecting an Acacia source for extracting or as ayahuasca analogue or extraction, and for how to extract it.

For a lot of good acacia info, check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 this] thread

== Comparative alkaloid content ==

For information on sustainable harvesting, Acacia yields, how to extract and alkaloid content, check the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Acacia Information Thread] and the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=27722 Acacia Analysis Thread] for a lot more info.

== Cultivation ==
'''Seeds:''' develop 1-4 months after flowering (usually at least two specimens required
in cultivation to allow cross-polination) ; viable 10-50 years (or more if stored well)

'''Germination:'''
Studies and research was conducted evaluating the most effective methods for germination of Acacia seeds. This included:

* Water (control)

* Boiling water soak (10 mins)

* Sulphuric Acid soak (1hr), follow by tap water rinse

* Mechanical scarification

A general conclusion was that for the species with the larger seed weight, the highest germination was achieved using sulphuric acid, and for smaller seed, the highest germination was achieved using scarification and boiling water. <ref>Reference: Ghassali, F., Salkini, A. K., Petersen, S. L., Niane, A. A., and Louhaichi, M. 2012. Germination dynamics of Acacia species under different seed treatments.
Range Mgmt. & Agroforestry 33(1): 37-42</ref>

For boiling water soak or scarification, place seeds in saucepan of water and bring to boil over 7-10 minutes, or carefully damage hard outer coat with scissors or file being careful not to hit the internal 'germ';
leave soaking in water, they should slightly swell over 24hrs..then place in soft moist medium such as moss or wet tissue..as sprouts they are very delicate and should not be allowed to dry out or be moved until their first root is a few cm

'''Seedling Care:''' after a couple of weeks the sprouts can be potted in a sand +cocoa/peat moss or other well drained but moisture retaining medium..in the first 2-3 months their roots must not be allowed to dry out or they'll die..they respond well to light and regular watering..when they have no more juvenile leaves (mimosa-like) they are more robust.

'''Fertilizer:''' use nitrogen rich slow release fertilizers (avoid phosphorus), ash also good supplement.

'''Long Term Care/ Planting:''' acacias will develop more quickly & become larger in the right ground conditions..well drained (e.g moist sandy), lots of sun, water & nutrient, low acidity, no competing grasses..growth rates of 5-7ft in 3-4 years (from germination) are attainable in cultivation..some smaller species like a. phlebophylla may be suited to long-term large tub growing, if indoors lots of light required..pruning of branches every few years should not cause much harm to large trees..

'''Conditions:''' most southern australian acacias tolerate frost and winter conditions in the low minus range; a few weeks of snow is ok for a few; once established they are drought resistant and should no longer require watering, but still respond well to fertilizer..

== Suppliers ==

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=39 Supplier section]

== Extraction teks ==

Different extraction teks used for other DMT containing plant can work theoretically for Acacia too, but there are 3 main issues with extracting from phalaris:

1- Finding a plant that yields decently

2- Finding a plant with good alkaloid profile

3- Dealing with plant impurities/chlorophyl/fats

For these reasons, one will more likely have good results if one extracts from a plant with consistent high yield

Heptane/hexane/naphtha recrystallizations can clean up from some of the potential unwanted alkaloids but can also eliminate certain possibly wanted alkaloids (NMT, DMT N-oxide, etc)

For separating from fats, fumarate precipitation such as FASI on limonene or FASA on xylene could potentially be a way to bypass the need for defats.

See [[:Category:Extraction Tek|Extraction teks]]

== Acacia list ==

* [[Acacia abbatiana]]
* [[Acacia abbreviata]]
* [[Acacia abrupta]]
* [[Acacia acanthaster]]
* [[Acacia acanthoclada]]
* [[Acacia acellerata]]
* [[Acacia acinacea]]
* [[Acacia aciphylla]]
* [[Acacia acoma]]
* [[Acacia acradenia]]
* [[Acacia acrionastes]]
* [[Acacia acuaria]]
* [[Acacia aculeatissima]]
* [[Acacia aculeiformis]]
* [[Acacia acuminata]]
* [[Acacia acutata]]
* [[Acacia adenogonia]]
* [[Acacia adinophylla]]
* [[Acacia adnata]]
* [[Acacia adoxa]]
* [[Acacia adsurgens]]
* [[Acacia adunca]]
* [[Acacia aemula]]
* [[Acacia aestivalis]]
* [[Acacia alata]]
* [[Acacia alaticaulis]]
* [[Acacia albida (Faidherbia albida)]]
* [[Acacia alcockii]]
* [[Acacia alexandri]]
* [[Acacia alleniana]]
* [[Acacia alpina]]
* [[Acacia amanda]]
* [[Acacia amblygona]]
* [[Acacia amblyophylla]]
* [[Acacia amentifera]]
* [[Acacia ammobia]]
* [[Acacia ammophila]]
* [[Acacia amoena]]
* [[Acacia ampliata]]
* [[Acacia ampliceps]]
* [[Acacia amyctica]]
* [[Acacia anasilla]]
* [[Acacia anastema]]
* [[Acacia anastomosa]]
* [[Acacia anaticeps]]
* [[Acacia anceps]]
* [[Acacia ancistrocarpa]]
* [[Acacia ancistrophylla]]
* [[Acacia andrewsii]]
* [[Acacia aneura]]
* [[Acacia anfractuosa]]
* [[Acacia angusta]]
* [[Acacia angustifolia]]
* [[Acacia angustissima]]
* [[Acacia anomala]]
* [[Acacia anserina]]
* [[Acacia anthochaera]]
* [[Acacia aphylla]]
* [[Acacia applanata]]
* [[Acacia aprepta]]
* [[Acacia aprica]]
* [[Acacia aptaneura]]
* [[Acacia arafurica]]
* [[Acacia araneosa]]
* [[Acacia arbiana]]
* [[Acacia arcuatilis]]
* [[Acacia areolata]]
* [[Acacia argentina]]
* [[Acacia argutifolia]]
* [[Acacia argyraea]]
* [[Acacia argyrodendron]]
* [[Acacia argyrophylla]]
* [[Acacia argyrotricha]]
* [[Acacia arida]]
* [[Acacia aristulata]]
* [[Acacia armillata]]
* [[Acacia armitii]]
* [[Acacia arrecta]]
* [[Acacia ascendens]]
* [[Acacia asepala]]
* [[Acacia ashbyae]]
* [[Acacia asparagoides]]
* [[Acacia aspera]]
* [[Acacia asperulacea]]
* [[Acacia assimilis]]
* [[Acacia ataxiphylla]]
* [[Acacia atkinsiana]]
* [[Acacia atopa]]
* [[Acacia atrox]]
* [[Acacia attenuata]]
* [[Acacia aulacocarpa]]
* [[Acacia aulacophylla]]
* [[Acacia auratiflora]]
* [[Acacia aureocrinita]]
* [[Acacia auricoma]]
* [[Acacia auriculiformis]]
* [[Acacia auripila]]
* [[Acacia auronitens]]
* [[Acacia ausfeldii]]
* [[Acacia awestoniana]]
* [[Acacia axillaris]]
* [[Acacia ayersiana]]

* [[Acacia baeuerlenii]]
* [[Acacia baileyana]]
* [[Acacia bakeri]]
* [[Acacia balsamea]]
* [[Acacia bancroftiorum]]
* [[Acacia barakulensis]]
* [[Acacia barattensis]]
* [[Acacia barbinervis]]
* [[Acacia barrettiorum]]
* [[Acacia barringtonensis]]
* [[Acacia bartlei]]
* [[Acacia basedowii]]
* [[Acacia baueri]]
* [[Acacia baxteri]]
* [[Acacia beadleana]]
* [[Acacia beauverdiana]]
* [[Acacia beckleri]]
* [[Acacia benthamii]]
* [[Acacia berlandieri]]
* [[Acacia betchei]]
* [[Acacia bidentata]]
* [[Acacia bifaria]]
* [[Acacia biflora]]
* [[Acacia binata]]
* [[Acacia binervata]]
* [[Acacia binervia]]
* [[Acacia bivenosa]]
* [[Acacia blakei]]
* [[Acacia blakelyi]]
* [[Acacia blaxellii]]
* [[Acacia blayana]]
* [[Acacia boormanii]]
* [[Acacia botrydion]]
* [[Acacia brachybotrya]]
* [[Acacia brachycarpa]]
* [[Acacia brachyclada]]
* [[Acacia brachyphylla]]
* [[Acacia brachypoda]]
* [[Acacia brachystachya]]
* [[Acacia bracteolata]]
* [[Acacia brassii]]
* [[Acacia brockii]]
* [[Acacia bromilowiana]]
* [[Acacia brownii]]
* [[Acacia brumalis]]
* [[Acacia brunioides]]
* [[Acacia bulgaensis]]
* [[Acacia burbidgeae]]
* [[Acacia burdekensis]]
* [[Acacia burkittii]]
* [[Acacia burrana]]
* [[Acacia burrowii]]
* [[Acacia burrowsiana]]
* [[Acacia buxifolia]]
* [[Acacia bynoeana]]

* [[Acacia caerulescens]]
* [[Acacia caesaneura]]
* [[Acacia caesariata]]
* [[Acacia caesiella]]
* [[Acacia calamifolia]]
* [[Acacia calantha]]
* [[Acacia calcarata]]
* [[Acacia calcicola]]
* [[Acacia calligera]]
* [[Acacia calyculata]]
* [[Acacia cambagei]]
* [[Acacia camptocarpa]]
* [[Acacia camptoclada]]
* [[Acacia campylophylla]]
* [[Acacia cana]]
* [[Acacia cangaiensis]]
* [[Acacia capillaris]]
* [[Acacia cardiophylla]]
* [[Acacia carens]]
* [[Acacia carneorum]]
* [[Acacia carnosula]]
* [[Acacia caroleae]]
* [[Acacia cassicula]]
* [[Acacia castanostegia]]
* [[Acacia cataractae]]
* [[Acacia catechu]]
* [[Acacia catenulata]]
* [[Acacia cavealis]]
* [[Acacia caven]]
* [[Acacia cedroides]]
* [[Acacia celastrifolia]]
* [[Acacia celsa]]
* [[Acacia centrinervia]]
* [[Acacia cerastes]]
* [[Acacia chalkeri]]
* [[Acacia chamaeleon]]
* [[Acacia chapmanii]]
* [[Acacia chartacea]]
* [[Acacia cheelii]]
* [[Acacia chinchillensis]]
* [[Acacia chippendalei]]
* [[Acacia chisholmii]]
* [[Acacia chrysella]]
* [[Acacia chrysocephala]]
* [[Acacia chrysochaeta]]
* [[Acacia chrysopoda]]
* [[Acacia chrysotricha]]
* [[Acacia cincinnata]]
* [[Acacia citrinoviridis]]
* [[Acacia clandullensis]]
* [[Acacia claviseta]]
* [[Acacia clelandii]]
* [[Acacia clunies-rossiae]]
* [[Acacia clydonophora]]
* [[Acacia cochlearis]]
* [[Acacia cochlocarpa]]
* [[Acacia cockertoniana]]
* [[Acacia cognata]]
* [[Acacia colei]]
* [[Acacia colletioides]]
* [[Acacia comans]]
* [[Acacia complanata]]
* [[Acacia concolorans]]
* [[Acacia concurrens]]
* [[Acacia conferta]]
* [[Acacia confluens]]
* [[Acacia confusa]]
* [[Acacia congesta]]
* [[Acacia conjunctifolia]]
* [[Acacia conniana]]
* [[Acacia consanguinea]]
* [[Acacia consobrina]]
* [[Acacia conspersa]]
* [[Acacia constablei]]
* [[Acacia constricta]]
* [[Acacia continua]]
* [[Acacia convallium]]
* [[Acacia coolgardiensis]]
* [[Acacia coriacea]]
* [[Acacia cornigera]]
* [[Acacia costata]]
* [[Acacia costiniana]]
* [[Acacia courtii]]
* [[Acacia covenyi]]
* [[Acacia cowaniana]]
* [[Acacia cowleana]]
* [[Acacia cracentis]]
* [[Acacia craspedocarpa]]
* [[Acacia crassa]]
* [[Acacia crassicarpa]]
* [[Acacia crassistipula]]
* [[Acacia crassiuscula]]
* [[Acacia crassuloides]]
* [[Acacia cremiflora]]
* [[Acacia crenulata]]
* [[Acacia cretacea]]
* [[Acacia cretata]]
* [[Acacia crispula]]
* [[Acacia crombiei]]
* [[Acacia cultriformis]]
* [[Acacia cummingiana]]
* [[Acacia cuneifolia]]
* [[Acacia cupularis]]
* [[Acacia curranii]]
* [[Acacia curvata]]
* [[Acacia cuspidifolia]]
* [[Acacia cuthbertsonii]]
* [[Acacia cyclocarpa]]
* [[Acacia cyclops]]
* [[Acacia cylindrica]]
* [[Acacia cyperophylla]]

* [[Acacia dacrydioides]]
* [[Acacia dallachiana]]
* [[Acacia dangarensis]]
* [[Acacia daphnifolia]]
* [[Acacia daviesii]]
* [[Acacia daviesioides]]
* [[Acacia dawsonii]]
* [[Acacia dealbata]]
* [[Acacia deanei]]
* [[Acacia debilis]]
* [[Acacia declinata]]
* [[Acacia decora]]
* [[Acacia decurrens]]
* [[Acacia deficiens]]
* [[Acacia deflexa]]
* [[Acacia delibrata]]
* [[Acacia delicatula]]
* [[Acacia delphina]]
* [[Acacia deltoidea]]
* [[Acacia demissa]]
* [[Acacia dempsteri]]
* [[Acacia densiflora]]
* [[Acacia denticulosa]]
* [[Acacia dentifera]]
* [[Acacia depressa]]
* [[Acacia dermatophylla]]
* [[Acacia derwentiana]]
* [[Acacia desertorum]]
* [[Acacia desmondii]]
* [[Acacia deuteroneura]]
* [[Acacia diallaga]]
* [[Acacia diaphana]]
* [[Acacia diaphyllodinea]]
* [[Acacia diastemata]]
* [[Acacia dictyocarpa]]
* [[Acacia dictyoneura]]
* [[Acacia dictyophleba]]
* [[Acacia didyma]]
* [[Acacia dielsii]]
* [[Acacia dietrichiana]]
* [[Acacia difficilis]]
* [[Acacia difformis]]
* [[Acacia dilatata]]
* [[Acacia dimidiata]]
* [[Acacia diminuta]]
* [[Acacia dimorpha]]
* [[Acacia disparrima]]
* [[Acacia dissimilis]]
* [[Acacia dissona]]
* [[Acacia distans]]
* [[Acacia disticha]]
* [[Acacia divergens]]
* [[Acacia dodonaeifolia]]
* [[Acacia dolichophylla]]
* [[Acacia donaldsonii]]
* [[Acacia doratoxylon]]
* [[Acacia dorothea]]
* [[Acacia dorsenna]]
* [[Acacia drepanocarpa]]
* [[Acacia drepanophylla]]
* [[Acacia drummondii]]
* [[Acacia dunnii]]
* [[Acacia dura]]
* [[Acacia durabilis]]
* [[Acacia duriuscula]]

* [[Acacia echinula]]
* [[Acacia echinuliflora]]
* [[Acacia effusa]]
* [[Acacia effusifolia]]
* [[Acacia elachantha]]
* [[Acacia elata]]
* [[Acacia elongata]]
* [[Acacia enervia]]
* [[Acacia ensifolia]]
* [[Acacia enterocarpa]]
* [[Acacia epedunculata]]
* [[Acacia ephedroides]]
* [[Acacia equisetifolia]]
* [[Acacia eremaea]]
* [[Acacia eremophila]]
* [[Acacia eremophiloides]]
* [[Acacia ericifolia]]
* [[Acacia ericksoniae]]
* [[Acacia erinacea]]
* [[Acacia erioclada]]
* [[Acacia eriopoda]]
* [[Acacia errabunda]]
* [[Acacia estrophiolata]]
* [[Acacia euthycarpa]]
* [[Acacia euthyphylla]]
* [[Acacia evenulosa]]
* [[Acacia everistii]]
* [[Acacia excelsa]]
* [[Acacia excentrica]]
* [[Acacia exilis]]
* [[Acacia exocarpoides]]
* [[Acacia extensa]]
* [[Acacia exudans]]

* [[Acacia falcata]]
* [[Acacia falciformis]]
* [[Acacia farinosa]]
* [[Acacia fasciculifera]]
* [[Acacia faucium]]
* [[Acacia fauntleroyi]]
* [[Acacia fecunda]]
* [[Acacia ferocior]]
* [[Acacia filamentosa]]
* [[Acacia filicifolia]]
* [[Acacia filifolia]]
* [[Acacia filipes]]
* [[Acacia fimbriata]]
* [[Acacia flabellifolia]]
* [[Acacia flagelliformis]]
* [[Acacia flavescens]]
* [[Acacia flavipila]]
* [[Acacia fleckeri]]
* [[Acacia flexifolia]]
* [[Acacia flocktoniae]]
* [[Acacia floribunda]]
* [[Acacia floydii]]
* [[Acacia fodinalis]]
* [[Acacia formidabilis]]
* [[Acacia forrestiana]]
* [[Acacia forsythii]]
* [[Acacia fragilis]]
* [[Acacia frigescens]]
* [[Acacia froggattii]]
* [[Acacia fulva]]
* [[Acacia fuscaneura]]

* [[Acacia galeata]]
* [[Acacia galioides]]
* [[Acacia gardneri]]
* [[Acacia gelasina]]
* [[Acacia gemina]]
* [[Acacia genistifolia]]
* [[Acacia georgensis]]
* [[Acacia georginae]]
* [[Acacia gibbosa]]
* [[Acacia gibsonii]]
* [[Acacia gilesiana]]
* [[Acacia gillii]]
* [[Acacia gittinsii]]
* [[Acacia gladiiformis]]
* [[Acacia glandulicarpa]]
* [[Acacia glaucissima]]
* [[Acacia glaucocaesia]]
* [[Acacia glaucocarpa]]
* [[Acacia glaucoptera]]
* [[Acacia gloeotricha]]
* [[Acacia glutinosissima]]
* [[Acacia gnidium]]
* [[Acacia gonocarpa]]
* [[Acacia gonoclada]]
* [[Acacia gonophylla]]
* [[Acacia gordonii]]
* [[Acacia gracilenta]]
* [[Acacia gracilifolia]]
* [[Acacia graciliformis]]
* [[Acacia gracillima]]
* [[Acacia grandifolia]]
* [[Acacia graniticola]]
* [[Acacia grasbyi]]
* [[Acacia gregorii]]
* [[Acacia gunnii]]
* [[Acacia guymeri]]

* [[Acacia hadrophylla]]
* [[Acacia hakeoides]]
* [[Acacia halliana]]
* [[Acacia hamersleyensis]]
* [[Acacia hamiltoniana]]
* [[Acacia hammondii]]
* [[Acacia handonis]]
* [[Acacia harpophylla]]
* [[Acacia harveyi]]
* [[Acacia hastulata]]
* [[Acacia havilandiorum]]
* [[Acacia helicophylla]]
* [[Acacia helmsiana]]
* [[Acacia hemignosta]]
* [[Acacia hemiteles]]
* [[Acacia hemsleyi]]
* [[Acacia hendersonii]]
* [[Acacia heterochroa]]
* [[Acacia heteroclita]]
* [[Acacia heteroneura]]
* [[Acacia heterophylla]]
* [[Acacia hexaneura]]
* [[Acacia hilliana]]
* [[Acacia hippuroides]]
* [[Acacia hispidula]]
* [[Acacia hockingsii]]
* [[Acacia holosericea]]
* [[Acacia holotricha]]
* [[Acacia homaloclada]]
* [[Acacia homalophylla]]
* [[Acacia hopperiana]]
* [[Acacia horridula]]
* [[Acacia howittii]]
* [[Acacia hubbardiana]]
* [[Acacia huegelii]]
* [[Acacia humifusa]]
* [[Acacia hyaloneura]]
* [[Acacia hylonoma]]
* [[Acacia hypermeces]]
* [[Acacia hystrix]]

* [[Acacia idiomorpha]]
* [[Acacia imbricata]]
* [[Acacia imitans]]
* [[Acacia imparilis]]
* [[Acacia implexa]]
* [[Acacia improcera]]
* [[Acacia inaequilatera]]
* [[Acacia inaequiloba]]
* [[Acacia inamabilis]]
* [[Acacia incanicarpa]]
* [[Acacia inceana]]
* [[Acacia incognita]]
* [[Acacia incongesta]]
* [[Acacia incrassata]]
* [[Acacia incurva]]
* [[Acacia incurvaneura]]
* [[Acacia infecunda]]
* [[Acacia ingramii]]
* [[Acacia ingrata]]
* [[Acacia inophloia]]
* [[Acacia inops]]
* [[Acacia insolita]]
* [[Acacia intorta]]
* [[Acacia intricata]]
* [[Acacia irrorata]]
* [[Acacia islana]]
* [[Acacia isoneura]]
* [[Acacia iteaphylla]]
* [[Acacia ixiophylla]]
* [[Acacia ixodes]]

* [[Acacia jackesiana]]
* [[Acacia jacksonioides]]
* [[Acacia jamesiana]]
* [[Acacia jasperensis]]
* [[Acacia jennerae]]
* [[Acacia jensenii]]
* [[Acacia jibberdingensis]]
* [[Acacia johannis]]
* [[Acacia johnsonii]]
* [[Acacia jonesii]]
* [[Acacia jucunda]]
* [[Acacia julifera]]
* [[Acacia juncifolia]]

* [[Acacia kalgoorliensis]]
* [[Acacia karina]]
* [[Acacia karroo]]
* [[Acacia kauaiensis]]
* [[Acacia kelleri]]
* [[Acacia kempeana]]
* [[Acacia kenneallyi]]
* [[Acacia kerryana]]
* [[Acacia kettlewelliae]]
* [[Acacia kimberleyensis]]
* [[Acacia kingiana]]
* [[Acacia koa]]
* [[Acacia koaia]]
* [[Acacia kochii]]
* [[Acacia kulnurensis]]
* [[Acacia kybeanensis]]
* [[Acacia kydrensis]]

* [[Acacia laccata]]
* [[Acacia lacertensis]]
* [[Acacia lachnophylla]]
* [[Acacia laeta]]
* [[Acacia lamprocarpa]]
* [[Acacia lanceolata]]
* [[Acacia lanei]]
* [[Acacia lanigera]]
* [[Acacia lanuginophylla]]
* [[Acacia laricina]]
* [[Acacia lasiocalyx]]
* [[Acacia latescens]]
* [[Acacia latifolia]]
* [[Acacia latior]]
* [[Acacia latipes]]
* [[Acacia latisepala]]
* [[Acacia latzii]]
* [[Acacia lauta]]
* [[Acacia lazaridis]]
* [[Acacia leeuweniana]]
* [[Acacia legnota]]
* [[Acacia leichhardtii]]
* [[Acacia leiocalyx]]
* [[Acacia leiophylla]]
* [[Acacia lentiginea]]
* [[Acacia leprosa]]
* [[Acacia leptalea]]
* [[Acacia leptocarpa]]
* [[Acacia leptoclada]]
* [[Acacia leptoloba]]
* [[Acacia leptoneura]]
* [[Acacia leptopetala]]
* [[Acacia leptophleba]]
* [[Acacia leptospermoides]]
* [[Acacia leptostachya]]
* [[Acacia leucoclada]]
* [[Acacia leucolobia]]
* [[Acacia levata]]
* [[Acacia ligulata]]
* [[Acacia ligustrina]]
* [[Acacia limbata]]
* [[Acacia linarioides]]
* [[Acacia linearifolia]]
* [[Acacia lineata]]
* [[Acacia lineolata]]
* [[Acacia linifolia]]
* [[Acacia linophylla]]
* [[Acacia lirellata]]
* [[Acacia littorea]]
* [[Acacia lobulata]]
* [[Acacia loderi]]
* [[Acacia longifolia]]
* [[Acacia longifolia var. sophorae]]
* [[Acacia longipedunculata]]
* [[Acacia longiphyllodinea]]
* [[Acacia longispicata]]
* [[Acacia longispinea]]
* [[Acacia longissima]]
* [[Acacia loroloba]]
* [[Acacia loxophylla]]
* [[Acacia lucasii]]
* [[Acacia lullfitziorum]]
* [[Acacia lumholtzii]]
* [[Acacia lunata]]
* [[Acacia lycopodiifolia]]
* [[Acacia lysiphloia]]

* [[Acacia mabellae]]
* [[Acacia macdonnelliensis]]
* [[Acacia mackeyana]]
* [[Acacia macnuttiana]]
* [[Acacia maconochieana]]
* [[Acacia macradenia]]
* [[Acacia macraneura]]
* [[Acacia maidenii]]
* [[Acacia maitlandii]]
* [[Acacia malloclada]]
* [[Acacia mangium]]
* [[Acacia manipularis]]
* [[Acacia maranoensis]]
* [[Acacia mariae]]
* [[Acacia marramamba]]
* [[Acacia masliniana]]
* [[Acacia mathuataensis]]
* [[Acacia matthewii]]
* [[Acacia maxwellii]]
* [[Acacia mearnsii]]
* [[Acacia megalantha]]
* [[Acacia meiantha]]
* [[Acacia meiosperma]]
* [[Acacia meisneri]]
* [[Acacia melanoxylon]]
* [[Acacia melleodora]]
* [[Acacia mellifera]]
* [[Acacia melvillei]]
* [[Acacia menzelii]]
* [[Acacia merinthophora]]
* [[Acacia merrallii]]
* [[Acacia merrickiae]]
* [[Acacia microbotrya]]
* [[Acacia microcalyx]]
* [[Acacia microcarpa]]
* [[Acacia microcybe]]
* [[Acacia microneura]]
* [[Acacia microsperma]]
* [[Acacia midgleyi]]
* [[Acacia mimica]]
* [[Acacia mimula]]
* [[Acacia minutifolia]]
* [[Acacia minutissima]]
* [[Acacia minyura]]
* [[Acacia mitchellii]]
* [[Acacia mitodes]]
* [[Acacia mollifolia]]
* [[Acacia montana]]
* [[Acacia monticola]]
* [[Acacia mooreana]]
* [[Acacia mountfordiae]]
* [[Acacia mucronata]]
* [[Acacia muelleriana]]
* [[Acacia mulganeura]]
* [[Acacia multisiliqua]]
* [[Acacia multispicata]]
* [[Acacia multistipulosa]]
* [[Acacia muriculata]]
* [[Acacia murrayana]]
* [[Acacia mutabilis]]
* [[Acacia myrtifolia]]

* [[Acacia nana]]
* [[Acacia nanodealbata]]
* [[Acacia nanopravissima]]
* [[Acacia nematophylla]]
* [[Acacia neriifolia]]
* [[Acacia nervosa]]
* [[Acacia nesophila]]
* [[Acacia neurocarpa]]
* [[Acacia neurophylla]]
* [[Acacia newmanii]]
* [[Acacia nigripilosa]]
* [[Acacia nilotica]]
* [[Acacia nitidula]]
* [[Acacia nivea]]
* [[Acacia nodiflora]]
* [[Acacia notabilis]]
* [[Acacia nova-anglica]]
* [[Acacia nubica]]
* [[Acacia nuperrima]]
* [[Acacia nyssophylla]]

* [[Acacia obesa]]
* [[Acacia obliquinervia]]
* [[Acacia obovata]]
* [[Acacia obtecta]]
* [[Acacia obtriangularis]]
* [[Acacia obtusata]]
* [[Acacia obtusifolia]]
* [[Acacia obtusifolia x maideni]]
* [[Acacia octonervia]]
* [[Acacia oerfota]]
* [[Acacia oldfieldii]]
* [[Acacia olgana]]
* [[Acacia oligoneura]]
* [[Acacia olsenii]]
* [[Acacia ommatosperma]]
* [[Acacia oncinocarpa]]
* [[Acacia oncinophylla]]
* [[Acacia ophiolithica]]
* [[Acacia oraria]]
* [[Acacia orbifolia]]
* [[Acacia orites]]
* [[Acacia orthocarpa]]
* [[Acacia orthotricha]]
* [[Acacia orthotropica]]
* [[Acacia oshanesii]]
* [[Acacia oswaldii]]
* [[Acacia oxycedrus]]
* [[Acacia oxycedrus x sophorae]]
* [[Acacia oxyclada]]

* [[Acacia pachyacra]]
* [[Acacia pachycarpa]]
* [[Acacia pachyphylla]]
* [[Acacia pachypoda]]
* [[Acacia palustris]]
* [[Acacia papulosa]]
* [[Acacia papyrocarpa]]
* [[Acacia paradoxa]]
* [[Acacia paraneura]]
* [[Acacia parramattensis]]
* [[Acacia parvipinnula]]
* [[Acacia pataczekii]]
* [[Acacia patagiata]]
* [[Acacia paula]]
* [[Acacia pedina]]
* [[Acacia pedleyi]]
* [[Acacia pellita]]
* [[Acacia pelophila]]
* [[Acacia pendula]]
* [[Acacia penninervis]]
* [[Acacia perangusta]]
* [[Acacia peregrinalis]]
* [[Acacia perpusilla]]
* [[Acacia perryi]]
* [[Acacia petraea]]
* [[Acacia peuce]]
* [[Acacia phacelia]]
* [[Acacia phaeocalyx]]
* [[Acacia pharangites]]
* [[Acacia phasmoides]]
* [[Acacia phlebocarpa]]
* [[Acacia phlebopetala]]
* [[Acacia phlebophylla]]
* [[Acacia pickardii]]
* [[Acacia piligera]]
* [[Acacia pilligaensis]]
* [[Acacia pinguiculosa]]
* [[Acacia pinguifolia]]
* [[Acacia platycarpa]]
* [[Acacia plautella]]
* [[Acacia plectocarpa]]
* [[Acacia podalyriifolia]]
* [[Acacia polifolia]]
* [[Acacia poliochroa]]
* [[Acacia polyacantha]]
* [[Acacia polyadenia]]
* [[Acacia polybotrya]]
* [[Acacia polystachya]]
* [[Acacia porcata]]
* [[Acacia praelongata]]
* [[Acacia praemorsa]]
* [[Acacia praetermissa]]
* [[Acacia prainii]]
* [[Acacia pravifolia]]
* [[Acacia pravissima]]
* [[Acacia prismifolia]]
* [[Acacia pritzeliana]]
* [[Acacia producta]]
* [[Acacia profusa]]
* [[Acacia proiantha]]
* [[Acacia prolata]]
* [[Acacia prominens]]
* [[Acacia provincialis]]
* [[Acacia pruinocarpa]]
* [[Acacia pruinosa]]
* [[Acacia pteraneura]]
* [[Acacia pterocaulon]]
* [[Acacia ptychoclada]]
* [[Acacia ptychophylla]]
* [[Acacia pubescens]]
* [[Acacia pubicosta]]
* [[Acacia pubifolia]]
* [[Acacia pubirhachis]]
* [[Acacia pulviniformis]]
* [[Acacia puncticulata]]
* [[Acacia purpureopetala]]
* [[Acacia pusilla]]
* [[Acacia pustula]]
* [[Acacia pycnantha]]
* [[Acacia pycnocephala]]
* [[Acacia pycnostachya]]
* [[Acacia pygmaea]]
* [[Acacia pyrifolia]]

* [[Acacia quadrilateralis]]
* [[Acacia quadrimarginea]]
* [[Acacia quadrisulcata]]
* [[Acacia quinquenervia]]
* [[Acacia quornensis]]

* [[Acacia racospermoides]]
* [[Acacia ramiflora]]
* [[Acacia ramulosa]]
* [[Acacia recurvata]]
* [[Acacia redolens]]
* [[Acacia rendlei]]
* [[Acacia repanda]]
* [[Acacia repens]]
* [[Acacia resinicostata]]
* [[Acacia resinimarginea]]
* [[Acacia resinistipulea]]
* [[Acacia resinosa]]
* [[Acacia restiacea]]
* [[Acacia retinervis]]
* [[Acacia retinodes]]
* [[Acacia retivenea]]
* [[Acacia retrorsa]]
* [[Acacia rhamphophylla]]
* [[Acacia rhetinocarpa]]
* [[Acacia rhigiophylla]]
* [[Acacia rhodophloia]]
* [[Acacia rhodoxylon]]
* [[Acacia riceana]]
* [[Acacia richardsii]]
* [[Acacia richii]]
* [[Acacia ridleyana]]
* [[Acacia rigens]]
* [[Acacia rigescens]]
* [[Acacia rigida]]
* [[Acacia rigidula]]
* [[Acacia rivalis]]
* [[Acacia robeorum]]
* [[Acacia robiniae]]
* [[Acacia rossei]]
* [[Acacia rostellata]]
* [[Acacia rostellifera]]
* [[Acacia rostriformis]]
* [[Acacia rothii]]
* [[Acacia roycei]]
* [[Acacia rubida]]
* [[Acacia rubricaulis]]
* [[Acacia rubricola]]
* [[Acacia rupicola]]
* [[Acacia ruppii]]
* [[Acacia ryaniana]]

* [[Acacia sabulosa]]
* [[Acacia saliciformis]]
* [[Acacia salicina]]
* [[Acacia saligna]]
* [[Acacia saxatilis]]
* [[Acacia saxicola]]
* [[Acacia scabra]]
* [[Acacia scalena]]
* [[Acacia scalpelliformis]]
* [[Acacia schinoides]]
* [[Acacia sciophanes]]
* [[Acacia scirpifolia]]
* [[Acacia scleroclada]]
* [[Acacia sclerophylla]]
* [[Acacia sclerosperma]]
* [[Acacia scopulorum]]
* [[Acacia seclusa]]
* [[Acacia sedifolia]]
* [[Acacia semiaurea]]
* [[Acacia semibinervia]]
* [[Acacia semicircinalis]]
* [[Acacia semilunata]]
* [[Acacia semirigida]]
* [[Acacia semitrullata]]
* [[Acacia senegal]]
* [[Acacia sericata]]
* [[Acacia sericocarpa]]
* [[Acacia sericoflora]]
* [[Acacia sericophylla]]
* [[Acacia serpentinicola]]
* [[Acacia sertiformis]]
* [[Acacia sessilis]]
* [[Acacia sessilispica]]
* [[Acacia setulifera]]
* [[Acacia shirleyi]]
* [[Acacia shuttleworthii]]
* [[Acacia sibilans]]
* [[Acacia sibina]]
* [[Acacia sibirica]]
* [[Acacia siculiformis]]
* [[Acacia sieberiana]]
* [[Acacia signata]]
* [[Acacia silvestris]]
* [[Acacia simplicifolia]]
* [[Acacia simmonsiana]]
* [[Acacia simsii]]
* [[Acacia simulans]]
* [[Acacia singula]]
* [[Acacia smeringa]]
* [[Acacia solenota]]
* [[Acacia sorophylla]]
* [[Acacia spania]]
* [[Acacia sparsiflora]]
* [[Acacia spathulifolia]]
* [[Acacia speckii]]
* [[Acacia spectabilis]]
* [[Acacia spectra]]
* [[Acacia sphacelata]]
* [[Acacia sphenophylla]]
* [[Acacia spilleriana]]
* [[Acacia spinescens]]
* [[Acacia spinosissima]]
* [[Acacia spirorbis]]
* [[Acacia splendens]]
* [[Acacia spondylophylla]]
* [[Acacia spongolitica]]
* [[Acacia spooneri]]
* [[Acacia sporadica]]
* [[Acacia squamata]]
* [[Acacia stanleyi]]
* [[Acacia startii]]
* [[Acacia steedmanii]]
* [[Acacia stellaticeps]]
* [[Acacia stenophylla]]
* [[Acacia stenoptera]]
* [[Acacia stereophylla]]
* [[Acacia stictophylla]]
* [[Acacia stigmatophylla]]
* [[Acacia stipuligera]]
* [[Acacia stipulosa]]
* [[Acacia storyi]]
* [[Acacia striatifolia]]
* [[Acacia stricta]]
* [[Acacia strongylophylla]]
* [[Acacia suaveolens]]
* [[Acacia subcaerulea]]
* [[Acacia subcontorta]]
* [[Acacia subflexuosa]]
* [[Acacia sublanata]]
* [[Acacia subporosa]]
* [[Acacia subrigida]]
* [[Acacia subsessilis]]
* [[Acacia subternata]]
* [[Acacia subtessarogona]]
* [[Acacia subtiliformis]]
* [[Acacia subtilinervis]]
* [[Acacia subulata]]
* [[Acacia sulcata]]
* [[Acacia sulcaticaulis]]
* [[Acacia symonii]]
* [[Acacia synantha]]
* [[Acacia synchronicia]]
* [[Acacia synoria]]

* [[Acacia tabula]]
* [[Acacia tarculensis]]
* [[Acacia telmica]]
* [[Acacia tenuinervis]]
* [[Acacia tenuior]]
* [[Acacia tenuispica]]
* [[Acacia tenuissima]]
* [[Acacia tephrina]]
* [[Acacia teretifolia]]
* [[Acacia terminalis]]
* [[Acacia tessellata]]
* [[Acacia tetanophylla]]
* [[Acacia tetragonocarpa]]
* [[Acacia tetragonophylla]]
* [[Acacia tetraneura]]
* [[Acacia tetraptera]]
* [[Acacia thoma]]
* [[Acacia thomsonii]]
* [[Acacia tindaleae]]
* [[Acacia tingoorensis]]
* [[Acacia tolmerensis]]
* [[Acacia toondulya]]
* [[Acacia torringtonensis]]
* [[Acacia torticarpa]]
* [[Acacia tortilis]]
* [[Acacia torulosa]]
* [[Acacia trachycarpa]]
* [[Acacia trachyphloia]]
* [[Acacia translucens]]
* [[Acacia tratmaniana]]
* [[Acacia trigonophylla]]
* [[Acacia trinalis]]
* [[Acacia trinervata]]
* [[Acacia trineura]]
* [[Acacia triptera]]
* [[Acacia triptycha]]
* [[Acacia triquetra]]
* [[Acacia tropica]]
* [[Acacia truculenta]]
* [[Acacia trudgeniana]]
* [[Acacia trulliformis]]
* [[Acacia truncata]]
* [[Acacia tuberculata]]
* [[Acacia tumida]]
* [[Acacia tysonii]]

* [[Acacia ulicifolia]]
* [[Acacia ulicina]]
* [[Acacia uliginosa]]
* [[Acacia umbellata]]
* [[Acacia umbraculiformis]]
* [[Acacia uncifera]]
* [[Acacia uncifolia]]
* [[Acacia uncinata]]
* [[Acacia uncinella]]
* [[Acacia undoolyana]]
* [[Acacia undosa]]
* [[Acacia undulifolia]]
* [[Acacia unguicula]]
* [[Acacia unifissilis]]
* [[Acacia urophylla]]

* [[Acacia validinervia]]
* [[Acacia vassalii]]
* [[Acacia venulosa]]
* [[Acacia verniciflua]]
* [[Acacia veronica]]
* [[Acacia verricula]]
* [[Acacia verticillata]]
* [[Acacia vestita]]
* [[Acacia victoriae]]
* [[Acacia vincentii]]
* [[Acacia viscidula]]
* [[Acacia viscifolia]]
* [[Acacia vittata]]
* [[Acacia volubilis]]

* [[Acacia walkeri]]
* [[Acacia wanyu]]
* [[Acacia wardellii]]
* [[Acacia warramaba]]
* [[Acacia wattsiana]]
* [[Acacia webbii]]
* [[Acacia websteri]]
* [[Acacia wetarensis]]
* [[Acacia whibleyana]]
* [[Acacia whitei]]
* [[Acacia wickhamii]]
* [[Acacia wilcoxii]]
* [[Acacia wilhelmiana]]
* [[Acacia willdenowiana]]
* [[Acacia williamsiana]]
* [[Acacia williamsonii]]
* [[Acacia willingii]]
* [[Acacia wilsonii]]
* [[Acacia wiseana]]
* [[Acacia woodmaniorum]]

* [[Acacia xanthina]]
* [[Acacia xanthocarpa]]
* [[Acacia xanthophloea]]
* [[Acacia xerophila]]
* [[Acacia xiphophylla]]

* [[Acacia yirrkallensis]]
* [[Acacia yorkrakinensis]]

* [[Acacia zatrichota]]

== Relevant links ==

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Trying to improve Acacia information]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33648 Acacia Identification Thread]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia ID info.zip]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=357670#post357670 Guide to Researching Psychoactive Plants: Resource List]

* [http://sharetheseeds.me/forum/index.php?topic=230.msg305#msg305 STS: Practical Resources for Plant ID and description]

== References ==
<references/>

Category:DMT Containing Plants

2014-05-12T03:24:56Z

Cosmic Spore: /* WIKI -> Botanicals (link). */

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is to remain in accordance with the Botanical Transclusion Project, in which only a partial transclusion of each plant's individual page is to be included her in the form of an info box. The proper procedure to create a page for each plant is to transfer its info box from this page to its own page in the following manner:
{{ShowInfo/In Article|[[Image:Information.png]]|Format for Initial Page Creation
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{{Botanical Transclusion Header}}
</nowiki>
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<onlyinclude>
</nowiki>
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{{botanics_info|Plant Image|Plant Name|
* Alkaloid Content w/ Reference
|Optional Nickname
}}
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
</onlyinclude>
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
{{Wikipedia}}
</nowiki>
<br>
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== Reference ==
</nowiki>
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The Wikipedia transclusion may be replaced if personal authorship is desirable.
}}

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a work in progress -- its content throughout is not yet complete.}}

==[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Botanicals#Plants WIKI -> Botanicals] (link).==

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa.zip]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=369566#post369566 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia.zip]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Trying to improve Acacia information]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33648 Acacia Identification Thread]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=38229 The TOP 8 ACACIAS to Grow WORLDWIDE]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=357670#post357670 Guide to Researching Psychoactive Plants: Resource List]

==DMT Containing plants==
The following is a list of plants known to contain tryptamines.

=== Acacia ===
{{:Acacia_acuminata}}

{{:Acacia_alpina}}

{{:Acacia angustifolia}}

{{:Acacia angustissima}}

{{:Acacia auriculiformis}}

{{:Acacia baileyana}}

{{:Acacia berlandieri}}

{{:Acacia catechu}}

{{:Acacia caven}}

{{:Acacia colei}}

{{:Acacia complanata}}

{{:Acacia constricta}}

{{:Acacia confusa}}

{{:Acacia cornigera}}

{{:Acacia cultriformis}}

{{:Acacia farnesiana}}

{{:Acacia filiciana}}

{{:Acacia_floribunda}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia georginae|
* Psychoactive,[8] plus deadly toxins
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia greggii|
* N-methyl-β-phenethylamine,[12] phenethylamine[36]
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia harpophylla|
* Phenethylamine, hordenine at a ratio of 2:3 in dried leaves, 0.6% total[6]
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia holoserica|
* Hordenine, 1.2% in bark[6]
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia horrida|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia implexa|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia karroo|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia kempeana|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia kettlewelliae|
* 1.5[6]–1.88%[38] alkaloids, 92% consisting of phenylethylamine.[6] 0.9% N-methyl-2-phenylethylamine found a different time
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia laeta|
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia lingulata|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia longifolia|
* 0.2% tryptamine in bark, leaves, some in flowers, phenylethylamine in flowers (Hegnauer 1994)
* DMT in plant (Lyceaum)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia macradenia|
* Tryptamine
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia maidenii|
* Bark of A. maidenii contains 0.6% of N-methyltryptamine and DMT in the proportions approx. 2:3 (Fitzgerald & Sioumis 1965)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia mangium|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia melanoxylon|
* DMT in the bark and leaf, less than 0.02% total alkaloids (Hegnauer 1994)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia mellifera|
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia nilotica|
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia obtusifolia|
* 0.4 to 0.5 % DMT/NMT in the dried bark (Csiro 1990)
*0.15-0.6% DMT,NMT(2:1)plus trace betacarboline in bark, 0.06-0.2% leaves (Southern Cross University comissioned test 2001)
*5-MeoDMT & bufotenine in some loctations (E., Entheogen Review 1995-6; Trout's Notes 2005-10) Is not fast growing in the wild and is under threat of serious overharvesting. Is NOT considered a weed as previously stated here, and will become rarer if wild seed populations exploited further.(Nen, original bioassay subject)
{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia oerfota|
* Less than 0.1% DMT in leaf (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia penninervis|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia phlebophylla|
* 0.3% DMT in leaf, NMT (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia platensis|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia podalyriaefolia|
* Tryptamine in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
* 0.5% to 2% DMT in fresh bark, phenethylamine trace amounts (Hegnauer 1994)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia polyacantha|
* DMT in leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia pycantha|
* Psychoactive,[8] but less than 0.02% total alkaloids
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia retinodes|
* DMT and MMT (www.factorey.ch/Eins.htm)
* Less than 0.02% total alkaloids found (Hegnauer 1994)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia roemeriana|
* β-methyl-phenethylamine
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia rigidula|
* DMT, NMT, tryptamine, amphetamines, mescaline, nicotine and others (Phytochem. 199
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia salicina|
* Psychoactive[8][9] Ash used in Pituri.
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia sassa|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia schaffneri|
* β-methyl-phenethylamine, Phenethylamine[36] Amphetamines and mescaline also found
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia schottii|
* β-methyl-phenethylamine
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia senegal|
* DMT, in the leaf
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia simplex|
*DMT and NMT, in the leaf, stem and trunk bark, 0.81% DMT in bark, MMT
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia taxensis|
* β-methyl-phenethylamine
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia tenuifolia|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|File:290px-Eat267.jpg|Acacia tortilis|
* DMT, NMT, and other tryptamines
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia sieberiana|
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia verek|
* Psychoactive (Rätsch 2004)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia vestita|
* Tryptamine, in the leaf and stem (Trout's Notes)
* Less than 0.02% total alkaloids (Hegnauer 1994)
}}

=== Anadenanthera ===
{{:Anadenanthera colubrina}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Anadenanthera macrocarpa|
* Seed pods contain dimethyltryptamine and the seeds bufotenin, bufotenin oxide, and oxide of dimethyltryptamine (GRANIER-DOYEUX 1965)
}}

{{:Anadenanthera_peregrina}}

=== Common Reed ===
{{botanics_info|image:arundo_donax.jpg|Arundo donax|Entire Plant contains 5-MeO-DMT (Shulgin, TIHKAL)Flowers contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, and 5-MeO-NMT (Shulgin, TIHKAL)Roots contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, 5-MeO-NMT, Bufotenine, bufotenidine, dehydrobufotenidine (Shulgin, TIHKAL)}}

{{botanics_info|image:desmanthus.jpg|Desmanthus illinoensis|Root contains DMT - 0.200% (Ott)Root Bark contains DMT - 0.340% (Ott)}}

{{:Phalaris_arundinacea}}

{{botanics_info|image:phalaris_aquatica.jpg|Phalaris tuberosa|Leaves and seedlings contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, and related compounds (Smith 1977)DMT - 0.100% (erowid)5-MeO-DMT - 0.022% (erowid)5-OH-DMT - 0.005% (erowid)}}

{{:Phragmites_australis}}

=== Delosperma ===
{{botanics_info|Image:Delosperma acuminatum2.jpg|Delosperma acuminatum|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:delosperma_acuminatum.jpg|Delosperma cooperi|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:iceplantbrighteyes-may.jpg|Delosperma ecklonis|DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:Delosperma_esterhuyseniae.jpg|Delosperma esterhuyseniae|DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma hallii|5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma harazianum|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma hirtum|DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:DelospermaLydenbergense.jpg|Delosperma lydenbergense|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma nubigenum|5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma pageanum|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma pergamentaceum|Traces of DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:180px-Delosperma_tradescantioides_leafs_IMGP0042.jpg|Delosperma tradescantioides|DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

=== Desmodium ===
{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium caudatum|
* Roots: 0.087% DMT, Bufotenine-N-oxide 0.03% (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium gangeticum|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT, whole plant, roots, stems, leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium gyrans|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT, leaves, roots (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium pulchellum|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT, whole plant, roots, stems, leaves, flowers (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium racemosum|
* 5-MEO-DMT (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium triflorum|
* DMT-N-oxide, roots (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Lespedeza bicolor|var. japonica
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in leaves and root bark (Ott)
}}

=== Petalostylis ===
{{botanics_info|image:petalostylis_cassioides.jpg|Petalostylis cassioides|0.4-0.5% tryptamine, DMT, etc. in leaves and stems (Johns et al 1966)}}

=== Mimosa ===
{{:Mimosa hostilis}}

{{:Mimosa ophthalmocentra}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Mimosa scabrella|
* DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|File:250px-Mimosa_verrucosa01.jpg|Mimosa verrucosa|
* DMT (Schultes 1969)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Mucuna pruriens|
* Leaves, seeds, stems and roots contain L-Dopa, Serotonin, 5-HTP, and Nicotine, as well as N,N-DMT, Bufotenine, and 5-MeO-DMT (Erowid)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Petalostylis labicheoides|var. casseoides
* DMT in leaves and stems (Ott)
}}

{{:Diplopterys_cabrerana}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Horsfieldia superba|
* 5-MeO-DMT and beta-carbolines (Jossang et al. 1991)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Iryanthera ulei|
* 5-MEO-DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Osteophloem platyspermum|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

=== Virola===
{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola calophylla|
* Leaves 0.149% DMT (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola carinata|
* DMT in leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola divergens|
* DMT in leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola elongata|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark and leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola melinonii|
* DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola multinervia|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark and leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola pavonis|
* DMT in leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola peruviana|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola rufuta|
* Alkaloids in bark and root, 95% of which is 5-MeO-DMT (Shulgin, TIHKAL)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola sebifera|
* DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola theiodora|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark, roots, leaves and flowers (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola venosa|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in roots and leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Psychotria carthaginensis|
* 0.2% average DMT in dried leaves (Ott)
}}

{{:Psychotria_viridis}}

==Sources==

{{Page_Footer|Botanicals|DMT}}

Mimosa hostilis

2014-05-12T03:24:31Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Links */

[[Image:Mimosa Hostilis.jpg|thumb|right|300px|''Mimosa hostilis'']]
[[Image:Mimosaclose.jpg|thumb|right|300px|''Mimosa hostilis seed pod'']]
[[Image:Mimosaflowers.jpg|thumb|right|300px|''Mimosa hostilis flower'']]

== General Plant Info ==

'''''Mimosa hostilis''''' is the former scientific name for '''''Mimosa tenuiflora''''', and the two names are synonymous
<ref>USDA, ARS, National Genetic Resources Program. Germplasm Resources Information Network - (GRIN) [Online Database]. National Germplasm Resources Laboratory, Beltsville, Maryland. URL: http://www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bin/npgs/html/taxon.pl?24430</ref><ref>Lewis, G.P. (1987) Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew 369 pp Legumes of Bahia.</ref>. The older name is still widely know due to its presence in the literature and as distributers of botanical products still use the older term. ''M. tenuiflora'' is an entheogen known as ''Jurema'', ''Jurema Preta'', ''Black Jurema'', and ''Vinho de Jurema''. Dried Mexican ''Mimosa Hostilis'' root bark has been recently shown to have a DMT content of about 1%. The stem bark has about 0.03% DMT.

To date no β-carbolines such as harmala alkaloids have been detected in ''Mimosa tenuiflora'' decoctions, however the isolation of a new compound called "Yuremamine" from ''Mimosa tenuiflora'' as reported in 2005 represents a new class of phyto-indoles <ref>Vepsäläinen, Jouko J.; Auriola, Seppo; Tukiainen, Mikko; Ropponen, Nina & Callaway, J.C. (2005). "Isolation and characterization of yuremamine, a new phytoindole". Planta Medica, 71: 1053-1057. URL: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16320208</ref>. This may explain the reported oral activity of DMT in Jurema without the addition of an MAOI. Imported MHRB typically requires the addition of an MAOI in the preparation of ayahuasca.

== Identification ==

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=283798#post283798 Post on identification of Mimosa hostilis vs Mimosa ophthalmocentra]

== Alkaloid content ==

* Root Bark contains DMT - 0.31% to 0.57% (Schultes 1977)
* Inner root bark contains up to 2% active alkaloids (Extractions from DMT-Nexus and others)
* 3% of the total alkaloids (or 0.04% of rootbark) is NMT and 2-Methyl-1,2,3,4-Tetrahydro-Beta-Carboline ([https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=10553 Analysis of jungle spice], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=19320 Analysis of red/yellow/white spices]

== Extraction teks ==

For extracting DMT , any of the extraction teks described [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Extraction_Tek#DMT here] will work.

Yuremamine is sensitive to heat and pH changes so only cold water (or alcoholic) soak will retrieve it.

== Cultivation ==

'''Growing''': Mimosas aren´t cold proof. For outdoor growing they deserve a sunny place with leachy middle nutrient soil. Throughout the vegetation are copiously watered, in winter the watering is tied down on to the minimum. They are breeding with the seeds, but can be breeded with the cutting also.

== Refinery for the Purpose of Extraction ==

[[MHRB|Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark]] can be acquired in different stages of preparation. Usually it is sold as ''whole'', ''shredded'' or ''pre-powdered'' root-bark, but one may have access to the whole root—usually when harvested directly.
* The whole root must cleaned and stripped of its inner root-bark while discarding the rest of the root.
* The whole root-bark must generally be torn by hand, cut, or smashed with a blunt object prior to shredding.
* The shredded should be further broken down as much as possible by peeling/cutting/blending to increase surface area for alkaloids to be extracted.
* The pre-powdered can always be used "as-is".

Below details how to break it from whole root

=== The Root ===

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|Only the '''Inner Root Bark''' is necessary for extraction, the ''core'' and ''outer parts'' are to be discarded!}}

{{Procedure
|Root preparation
|
Pictured below is its original after being harvested from the plant. Notice the middle core is quite distinct from the root-bark, the outer bark is much more brown:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:MHR.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0138largehu6.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0158largeux3.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0136largedg2.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Cleaning the root ===

{{Procedure
|Cleaning The Root
|
The first step in refinery is to brush the outside to remove the dirt. Then the outer bark must be lightly scraped with a good knife. It is preferable to remove at least some of the outermost layer to uncover the more blackish and purplish layer underneath:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0145largemx8.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0126largevu7.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0125largegc6.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Peeling the Inner Root Bark ===

{{Procedure
|Peeling the Inner Root Bark
|
Once the outermost part has been removed, peel off the Inner Root Bark to separate it from the core. This can easily be accomplished immediately by hand, though the use of a knife may be helpful.
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0128largeys9.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0130largezp0.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0149largewh7.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0147largeuc0.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
Here's the inner core which is to be discarded:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0133largera8.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Result of root preparation ===

{{Procedure
|Result of root preparation
|
The peeled inner root-bark now needs to dry. This may be accomplished by simply leaving it in the sun. Here's how it should look:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0160largehd1.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0150largesq4.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Breaking the rootbark up ===

{{Procedure
|Breaking the rootbark up
|
The pieces/strips of inner root-bark require further refinery to expose a larger surface area and increase the availability of the alkaloids for extraction. If storage is desired, then the whole pieces are preferable, as the alkaloids are less exposed and thus better protected.

First strip the pieces further into thinner layers with the hands, then cut it up with good scissors into smaller squares, then break it down in small amounts and short/medium bursts with a blender or coffee grinder (to prevent breaking of blender/grinder)
}}

== References ==
<references/>

== Links ==
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mimosa_hostilis Mimosa Hostilis on Wikipedia]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa ID stuff]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=369566#post369566 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=357670#post357670 Guide to Researching Psychoactive Plants: Resource List]

[[Category:Botanicals]]

Mimosa hostilis

2014-05-12T03:17:58Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Links */

[[Image:Mimosa Hostilis.jpg|thumb|right|300px|''Mimosa hostilis'']]
[[Image:Mimosaclose.jpg|thumb|right|300px|''Mimosa hostilis seed pod'']]
[[Image:Mimosaflowers.jpg|thumb|right|300px|''Mimosa hostilis flower'']]

== General Plant Info ==

'''''Mimosa hostilis''''' is the former scientific name for '''''Mimosa tenuiflora''''', and the two names are synonymous
<ref>USDA, ARS, National Genetic Resources Program. Germplasm Resources Information Network - (GRIN) [Online Database]. National Germplasm Resources Laboratory, Beltsville, Maryland. URL: http://www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bin/npgs/html/taxon.pl?24430</ref><ref>Lewis, G.P. (1987) Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew 369 pp Legumes of Bahia.</ref>. The older name is still widely know due to its presence in the literature and as distributers of botanical products still use the older term. ''M. tenuiflora'' is an entheogen known as ''Jurema'', ''Jurema Preta'', ''Black Jurema'', and ''Vinho de Jurema''. Dried Mexican ''Mimosa Hostilis'' root bark has been recently shown to have a DMT content of about 1%. The stem bark has about 0.03% DMT.

To date no β-carbolines such as harmala alkaloids have been detected in ''Mimosa tenuiflora'' decoctions, however the isolation of a new compound called "Yuremamine" from ''Mimosa tenuiflora'' as reported in 2005 represents a new class of phyto-indoles <ref>Vepsäläinen, Jouko J.; Auriola, Seppo; Tukiainen, Mikko; Ropponen, Nina & Callaway, J.C. (2005). "Isolation and characterization of yuremamine, a new phytoindole". Planta Medica, 71: 1053-1057. URL: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16320208</ref>. This may explain the reported oral activity of DMT in Jurema without the addition of an MAOI. Imported MHRB typically requires the addition of an MAOI in the preparation of ayahuasca.

== Identification ==

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=283798#post283798 Post on identification of Mimosa hostilis vs Mimosa ophthalmocentra]

== Alkaloid content ==

* Root Bark contains DMT - 0.31% to 0.57% (Schultes 1977)
* Inner root bark contains up to 2% active alkaloids (Extractions from DMT-Nexus and others)
* 3% of the total alkaloids (or 0.04% of rootbark) is NMT and 2-Methyl-1,2,3,4-Tetrahydro-Beta-Carboline ([https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=10553 Analysis of jungle spice], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=19320 Analysis of red/yellow/white spices]

== Extraction teks ==

For extracting DMT , any of the extraction teks described [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Extraction_Tek#DMT here] will work.

Yuremamine is sensitive to heat and pH changes so only cold water (or alcoholic) soak will retrieve it.

== Cultivation ==

'''Growing''': Mimosas aren´t cold proof. For outdoor growing they deserve a sunny place with leachy middle nutrient soil. Throughout the vegetation are copiously watered, in winter the watering is tied down on to the minimum. They are breeding with the seeds, but can be breeded with the cutting also.

== Refinery for the Purpose of Extraction ==

[[MHRB|Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark]] can be acquired in different stages of preparation. Usually it is sold as ''whole'', ''shredded'' or ''pre-powdered'' root-bark, but one may have access to the whole root—usually when harvested directly.
* The whole root must cleaned and stripped of its inner root-bark while discarding the rest of the root.
* The whole root-bark must generally be torn by hand, cut, or smashed with a blunt object prior to shredding.
* The shredded should be further broken down as much as possible by peeling/cutting/blending to increase surface area for alkaloids to be extracted.
* The pre-powdered can always be used "as-is".

Below details how to break it from whole root

=== The Root ===

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|Only the '''Inner Root Bark''' is necessary for extraction, the ''core'' and ''outer parts'' are to be discarded!}}

{{Procedure
|Root preparation
|
Pictured below is its original after being harvested from the plant. Notice the middle core is quite distinct from the root-bark, the outer bark is much more brown:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:MHR.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0138largehu6.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0158largeux3.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0136largedg2.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Cleaning the root ===

{{Procedure
|Cleaning The Root
|
The first step in refinery is to brush the outside to remove the dirt. Then the outer bark must be lightly scraped with a good knife. It is preferable to remove at least some of the outermost layer to uncover the more blackish and purplish layer underneath:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0145largemx8.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0126largevu7.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0125largegc6.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Peeling the Inner Root Bark ===

{{Procedure
|Peeling the Inner Root Bark
|
Once the outermost part has been removed, peel off the Inner Root Bark to separate it from the core. This can easily be accomplished immediately by hand, though the use of a knife may be helpful.
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0128largeys9.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0130largezp0.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0149largewh7.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0147largeuc0.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
Here's the inner core which is to be discarded:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0133largera8.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Result of root preparation ===

{{Procedure
|Result of root preparation
|
The peeled inner root-bark now needs to dry. This may be accomplished by simply leaving it in the sun. Here's how it should look:
<table>
<tr>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0160largehd1.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
<td>[[Image:Dsc0150largesq4.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]</td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

=== Breaking the rootbark up ===

{{Procedure
|Breaking the rootbark up
|
The pieces/strips of inner root-bark require further refinery to expose a larger surface area and increase the availability of the alkaloids for extraction. If storage is desired, then the whole pieces are preferable, as the alkaloids are less exposed and thus better protected.

First strip the pieces further into thinner layers with the hands, then cut it up with good scissors into smaller squares, then break it down in small amounts and short/medium bursts with a blender or coffee grinder (to prevent breaking of blender/grinder)
}}

== References ==
<references/>

== Links ==
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mimosa_hostilis Mimosa Hostilis on Wikipedia]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa ID stuff]

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=369566#post369566 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace]

[[Category:Botanicals]]

FAQ - DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide

2014-05-08T17:32:49Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Links */

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of the 'DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide'<ref>DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide
[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6341]</ref>.}}

== DMT overview ==

=== What is DMT, Where do I learn the basics? ===

DMT is a naturally occuring substance, present in trace amounts in normal human metabolism (and its purpouse is unknown, check question [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Is_it_true_the_pineal_gland_produces_DMT_naturally_and_is_involved_in_dreaming.3F 2.1] , as well as in a variety of plants and animals.

It can be extracted from some of these plants and smoked for some very strong psychedelic/entheogenic effects lasting 10 minutes. It can also be taken orally, but we have an enzyme (MAO) in our stomach that destroys dmt if taken orally, so for taking orally DMT must be acompanied by a substance that inhibits this enzyme (MAOI, or MAO Inhibitor), which is also present in some other plants.

Ayahuasca, a sacred drink used by indigenous people of the Amazon, is an example of a drink made from a dmt-containing plant (Psychotria viridis), together with a MAOI containing plant (Banisteriopsis caapi), that is drank orally for a psychedelic/entheogenic experience lasting around 4 hours.

When smoking, we do not need to use MAOI because we do not have MAOs in our lungs. Nevertheless, some people like to also ingest MAOIs before vaporizing DMT, or vaporizing a MAOI together with the DMT (such as in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ_-_DMT_Frequently_Asked_Questions_and_Troubleshooting_Guide#What_is_changa_.2F_How_to_make_changa_.3F changa]), to make the experience last longer.

For learning more about DMT, this whole webpage is dedicated to it. Here's a few links

==== Links ====

* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dimethyltryptamine Wikipedia DMT Link]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/ The Dmt Nexus Wiki]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ Frequently Asked Questions]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=forum Main Dmt Nexus Forum]

=== Are there different types of DMT? ===

DMT can be in salt form or in freebase form. A salt form means the DMT is attached to an acid molecule. DMT is naturally in salt form in the plants because of plant acids (for example dmt tannate or oxalate due to tannic or oxalic acid being present in some plants). When people extract DMT, they can make it in freebase form to smoke, because DMT in salt form can't be smoked, it has high boiling point and breaks down instead of vaporizing efficiently. Some salt forms like DMT fumarate can even be toxic to smoke due to creation of maleic anhydride during combustion.

Appart from being naturally in brews made of DMT containing plants like ayahuasca, DMT can also be made into salt for, for example DMT fumarate, when people extract it, because DMT fumarate is stable and can be stored for long, and it can be taken orally or intranasally. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods this] for more info. Regarding dosages in different salt forms, one can read [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this] thread. Each salt form of DMT have their own weight depending on the acid molecule weight (for example DMT fumarate's weight is around 76% DMT, 24% fumaric acid), so dosages could be adjusted proportionately to the amount of DMT when ingesting, but since each person is differently sensitive to DMT and since salt form may be a bit more effective to ingest orally, this "salt weight calculation" is not really necessary for DMT, one can just ingest according to [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 these] recommendations, starting low for first time, and adjusting according to own sensitivity and batch the next time.

There are other molecules which have the DMT structure built into them but they are not DMT, they have structural modifications, for example 4-HO-DMT also known as psilocin and 4-PO-DMT, psilocybin, the active compounds in mushrooms, which are different molecules altogether with their own particular effects. Small modifications in molecules can completely change effects. So psilocybin, psilocin, 5-MeO DMT, and 5-HO-DMT (bufotenine), plus others, are all different molecules, they are NOT the same as DMT. Each of them has different effects, pharmacology, etc etc. On the other hand, DMT freebase or DMT in salt form (tannate, acetate, fumarate) are all DMT.

== DMT Chemistry and Body ==

=== Is it true the pineal gland produces DMT naturally and is involved in dreaming and death? What does DMT do in the body? ===

At this point there is no evidence to support the claim that DMT is produced in the pineal or brain. It is a speculation raised by Dr Rick Strassman due to his previous interest in the pineal. So far in humans, the key enzymes necessary for this have [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=5549 not been found present in the human brain], therefore it seem more likely it is produced elsewhere in the body, though some recent research has shown in primates these enzymes are present in pineal gland. In any case nothing is really proven yet so we must avoid making claims before more data comes in.

The supposed connection of DMT and dreams, and the idea that DMT is released when we die, both are speculation with no real evidence to back them up.

It IS proven, though, for decades already, that DMT is produced in the human body and is present at all times in trace amounts, for unknown functions (which could be several functions, see last link below).

==== Links ====

*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18834 Zero proof DMT is made in the brain]
*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=295746#post295746 I dislike the "DMT is responsible for your dreams" theory]
*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18394 Rethinking DMT and the Pineal Gland]
*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18448 The functions of DMT in our body: If DMT would be a neurotransmitter]

=== Is DMT dangerous? ===

Researches have been made showing the relative safety of dmt. It does not cause physical damage, addiction, and any tolerance disappears very quickly. Ayahuasca, the dmt-containing brew from the Amazon, has been studied by multidisciplinary groups in Brazil and other countries and was shown that in a careful context, it presents no negative cognitive/psychiatric/social consequences, even in adolescents.

There is yet little research into vaporized dmt, but there seems to be no sign that it is in any way more dangerous physically than other administration forms. There are no reported deaths from smoking DMT. Smoking it will not lead to a dangerous overdose because the onset is so quick that one can only inhale a certain amount before being gone to ´hyperspace', without being able to smoke more until one is down again.

However:
* People with extreme heart or other conditions for whom strong emotions could be dangerous are contra-indicated, just like a roller coaster would for them.
* It is important to notice that with any psychedelic, it is a very powerful emotional/mental experience, so those with personal or family psychiatric history, unstable emotionally or going through some very difficult moments in life should be extremely careful.
* Also, it is possible that during the experience, one temporarily loses orientation in the consensus reality, so smoking/ingesting next to a cliff, sharp objects, etc, is not a good idea. BE IN A PHYSICALLY SAFE ENVIRONMENT!
* DO NOT use MAOIs (so for example an ayahuasca brew) together with stimulants or SSRI medication

Appart from that, there are psychological issues to be considered. Please read the health and safety section linked below, as well as the scientific articles also linked below.

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety Health And Safety Section]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1441 Scientific Articles on DMT/Ayahuasca/Psychedelics]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4400 Long term effects of smoking DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5843 DMT After-Effects]

=== Is a MAOI diet / Ayahuasca fasting necessary? What kind of dangers are there with medication interaction? ===

Unlike some pharmaceutical MAOI, the Harmalas, alkaloids present in the caapi vine and syrian rue are reversible inhibitors of MAO-A, while Tyramine, the component in some food that could cause problems in big amounts, is eliminated partly by MAO-A and but also partly by the intact MAO-B ([http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 source] ). Also for some pharmacological reason as shown in [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_fig9big.jpg this] diagram, tyramine can still be partly metabolized by MAO-A even during the harmala effects.

In other words, in terms of '''food''' interaction, the danger with reversible MAOI use (in for example ayahuasca or pharmahuasca with harmalas) and food interaction is very reduced. The necessity of the very strict dieting for ayahuasca with extensive list of what one must absolutely not eat is an exaggeration, though it is advised to eat light because extreme amounts of tyramine in some specific foods could theoretically still be a potential problem.

There seem to be no reports of actual life-threatening events with tyramine-containing foods and harmalas. There are even people that purposely ate tyramine-containing foods with no ill effects, but there have also been reports of negative symptoms such as very strong headaches and negative body load when mixing a heavy food consumption before/during/after harmala consumption. Several other variables may also be involved that are unrelated to tyramine and harmala-food interaction (variables such as for example exhaustion from the trip, vasodilation, the body/ayahuasca telling the person to 'eat better' in general, etc). Headaches seem specially common when mixing beer and harmalas.

In any case, it is generally considered common sense to eat light before and after the use of ayahuasca and analogues (and psychedelics in general). Just follow your good sense and you should be fine. To eer on the side of caution, the food to avoid eating (or over-eating) is aged or fermented food specially aged cheese, fermented or smoked meat (fish included) and soy products (though some soy products have also been found to have little tyramine content). Beer should also be avoided as some people have experienced negative interaction between MAOIs and beer. Apart from that, there are no real restrictions, eat lightly and all should be good :)

In relation to how long to wait after the last food before taking ayahuasca, this is very personal. Some like to have empty stomach and be fasting for 6 or more hours, but this is not necessary, and others feel it is even negative to fast for so long, because a too empty stomach might make one very tired during the ceremony, specialy at the end, and can also make purging a specially difficult or uncomfortable experience. Some consider better to have eaten something light (like some fruits or cereal or light sandwhich) a couple of hours before ingesting ayahuasca/analogues.

Remember: With the exception of moclobemide, which stands in the same category as harmalas as far as reversibility and food interaction goes, avoid all other pharmaceutical MAOIs !! Pharmaceutical irreversible MAOIs are VERY dangerous to take without taking strong precautions with food and drug interaction.

'''What IS dangerous is interaction between any MAOIs (including harmalas) and stimulants or some medication''' such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_serotonin_reuptake_inhibitor SSRI] medication such as prozac, or stimulants such as amphetamines or others. If you're taking SSRI's, do not consume MAOIs!! Do not mix stimulants with MAOIs either! Mixing stimulants/SSRIs with MAOIs can cause Serotonin Syndrome which may lead to convulsions or even death. For pharmaceuticals and substances that should NEVER be taken when consuming harmalas, check [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 1] and [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 2]

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29131 Do you experience tyramine interaction with harmalas?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5711 Will smoked Rue cause MAOI?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5398 Think iv cracked it]
* [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=tyramine%20food%20table&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CFMQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fddr.nal.usda.gov%2Fbitstream%2F10113%2F7351%2F1%2FIND43817287.pdf&ei=PpvsT8zAEsXAhAehj-nPBQ&usg=AFQjCNGKR57Q_VTqzOjKxfvKbu0kDTB8Ng&cad=rja Scientific publication on food containing tyramine]
* [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 scientific publication on interaction of MAOIs and tyramine]

== DMT and Society ==

=== Is dmt legal? ===

Posession and sales of DMT in its pure extracted/synthesized form is illegal, schedule 1 in USA and controlled by United Nations and can land you in jail if found in most countries.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/dmt/dmt_law.shtml Erowid DMT Law Vault]

=== '''Are the natural ingredients such as mimosa, and ayahuasca, illegal?''' ===

'''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=21527 On the Legal Status of DMT Source Plants in the US (with a discussion of the religious use defense)]'''

==== Links ====

* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/ayahuasca/ayahuasca_law.shtml Erowid Ayahuasca Law Vault]
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/plants/mimosa/mimosa_law.shtml Erowid Mimosa Law Vault]

=== Whats the price of dmt / Can I trade dmt? ===

'''[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Attitude_Page#No_discussion_on_selling.2C_buying.2C_sourcing.2C_acquiring.2C_pricing.2C_trading.2C_mentioning_pending_deliveries_or_smuggling_of_drugs No discussion on selling, buying, sourcing, acquiring, pricing, trading, mentioning pending deliveries or smuggling of drugs].'''

'''DO NOT BUY OR SELL DMT!''' We at the nexus are against selling/profiting with this incredible substance. We do not know and we do not want to know how much it costs in the street, we do not want it to be sold on the streets! This is not only disrespectful and shows a lack of understanding about the power of this substance, but its also a liability for the whole community. Dealing/trading DMT can attract the attention of authorities and create a problem not only for yourself but for all others in the community.

'''Talking about DMT sales or trade will result in suspension from the forum!'''

All the reasons why we dont believe in it are listed in the thread below

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3414 Street Value of DMT (and why you should never sell it) ]

== DMT Extraction ==

=== Where to start? ===

There are several ways of extracting DMT, and different ways use different chemicals and take different time. It is recommended that before embarking on extracting, one reads up at least a couple of different teks (link on the bottom) to understand the processes.

The basics of an extraction is:

DMT is present in many plant materials and can be isolated through simple processes. Most commonly used plant is [[Mimosa hostilis]] root bark, but there are other plants with good alkaloid profile such as certain Acacias and certain strains of [[Phalaris spp.]]

DMT in an acidic solution is in salt form and therefore water soluble, while DMT in a basic solution becomes a freebase and not water soluble but rather soluble in non-polar solvents (like limonene, naphtha, xylene, etc). This works similarly to most other alkaloids, with a few exceptions, for example harmalas freebase dont dissolve in the solvents mentioned above, but when you add a base to a solution containing harmalas, they just precipitate and you can filter them.

Back to DMT, non-polar solvents separate from water like oil, it stays as a layer on top. By playing with the pH (adding an acid or a base) you make the dmt move from one place to the other while most of other impurities dont, and then you separate the layers by pippeting/separatory funnel/decanting, and then retrieve the dmt from the non-polar solvent by evaporating it or freeze-precipitating (putting it in a closed container in the freezer, and as the temperature goes down the solubility of dmt in the solvent diminishes, so after some hours dmt precipitates and can be retrieved). There are differences depending on the process of extraction you use (for example limonene can't be evaporated and neither freeze precipitated, it's usually salted, as described in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB], but that is, in a very general way, how it works.

There are some new developed teks for extracting dmt with food-safe materials and/or no petro-chemical solvents, such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] , [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Nontoxic_Approach_to_Spice_Extraction Amor Fati's approach], or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek Q21Q21's extraction tek]. The biggest advantage is, as said, the use of relatively non-toxic material and no petrochemicals but instead solvents such as limonene, which is basically pure orange oil. The disadvantage is that to retrieve the dmt from limonene, you cannot evaporate it (as limonene doesnt evaporate cleanly, it leaves gooey residues), and freeze precipitation also doesnt work (as even in freeze temperatures, dmt is still too soluble in it so it doesnt precipitate), so there are 2 extra steps, which are to 'salt out' the limonene by mixing it with an acidic solution, evaporating that solution and then freebasing the resulting product if one wants to smoke it (or just keeping the salt for storage or oral consumption), as explained in the teks mentioned above. These steps are just as easy as any other step done in the earlier steps of the extraction but the fact that its two extra steps means some extra time and work which some people might not want.

There are also the standard STB (straight-to-base) teks that have been used a lot before the food-safe/limo teks, the two most common being [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Noman%27s_tek Noman's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Lazyman%27s_tek Lazyman Tek]. The mimosa (or whatever plant material extracted) is put straight in a basic solution from the beginning, with no acid-adding step, and hence the name. The advantage of STBs generally being that they need less steps, maybe simpler for beginners, and can usually be quicker, and the main disadvantage being the amount of lye/caustic soda they require (lye being dangerous if it spills because it causes serious chemical burns and could make one blind, though if done correctly it will not be on your final product. Also disadvantage of using much lye is it is watched in many places due to being used in meth production, so it might be suspicious to buy it, or even impossible to find, specially in some specific places of USA). Another possible disadvantage of STB teks is some people claim the final product is not as clean, its more yellow. Yellow dmt isnt necessarily a problem, though, some people even prefer it. Also, one can easily do a recrystalization (look below in the FAQ for explanation) which will effectively clean up the final product quickly and with very little solvent needed.

Then there are the A/B extractions (acid/base), such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Vovin%27s_tek Vovin's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Marsofold%27s_tek Marsofold's tek]. As the name suggests, the plant material is first simmered/boiled in acid 3x, filtered and later the base is added. The advantage being that when one is adding the base and mixing the solvent, the solids were already removed after the acid step, making it easier to mix the solvent, and easier to discard everything later. Also the acid step allows one to do a [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Defat_process Defat], though usually that is considered a wasteful way of cleaning up because it needs a lot of solvent for removing a bit of fats, which can be accomplished more efficiently with a recrystallization on the final product. The disadvantage of an A/B is that it takes longer because of the initial acid step, and if one isnt thorough enough in this acid step one will lose a lot of actives when discarding the solids before moving on to the Base step.

==== Links ====

* [[:Category:Extraction_Tek|Extraction Teks]]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1085 DMT Extraction Overview]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=318336#post318336 Art of liquid-liquid extraction - The basics]

=== What is the best tek? ===

There is no "best" tek. All teks featured in the Nexus Wiki should result in similar final product purity and yields, if correctly performed. Each tek has it's own characteristics regarding chemicals used, how long it takes, how thorough it's explained, if it includes optional clean up steps or not, etc. That is why, before deciding on one tek, it's important to read all (or at least some of them), also the "where to start" question above and the extraction overview linked there. That way you will have a better understanding of the processes instead of just blindly following a tek, which means you'll probably be more succesful with whichever tek you decide to use in the end.

=== Is my solvent/chemical OK to use? ===

Before using any solvent, one must make sure it is a clean evaporating solvent with no toxic/residual additives (or for other non-volatile chemicals used, make sure it has no toxic/unwanted additives). Always:

* Read the ingredients on the solvent's or chemical's label. Make sure it is pure with nothing appart from the desired chemical (for example: Naphtha/Aliphatic hydrocarbons)
* Google "solventbrand solvent/chemical msds", searching the brand of the solvent you have access to, to see if it has an msds, which usually contains more in depth information on what the product contains. For example "merck acetone msds". Or alternatively:
* Check the webpage linked in [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=165091#post165091 this thread] and see if your solvent and its contents is featured there
* VERY IMPORTANT: Always do an evaporating test before using a solvent for the first time: Add a quantity of the solvent to a glass/pyrex/plate (do NOT use a cd) and let it evaporate. If it leaves residues of any kind, dont use it. If it evaporates cleanly, chances are its ok to use.
* Check [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=14772 this] thread on whether your chem is ok to use or where to get the right chems.

=== Is this material or container ok to use with my chemicals? ===

The keyword to search is "Chemical compatibility" or "Chemical Resistance", plus the material and solvent/chemical you are looking for. Below are some good links to help you already find the information you want:

==== Link ====

* [http://www.nalgenelabware.com/techdata/chemical/index.asp Chemical Compatibility Search]
* [http://www.coleparmer.com/techinfo/chemcomp.asp Chemical compatibility database 2]
* [http://www.greenterpene.com/GreenTerpene_Product_Compatibility_s/48.htm Limonene compatibility chart]

=== Is plastic OK to use for my extraction? ===

In short, better not. If you are going to use anyways (NOT recommended), be sure to check what kind of plastic it is, and that its compatible with the chemicals used, as in the links of the previous question. But again, better not use plastic and only use glass, read links below for explanations why:

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=26324 Warning to those using plastic containers]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=340124#post340124 Using plastic for extractions]

=== What are the different bases one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired base.

* For [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH
* For [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH, Potassium Hydroxide/KOH
* For [[:Category:Dry_Technique|Dry tek]]: Calcium Hydroxide

=== What are the different acids one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired acid.

Plenty of different kinds of acid will work, but generally people preffer the first one on the following list:
* Vinegar (acetic acid)
* Lemon Juice (citric acid)
* Phosphoric Acid
* Hydrochloric Acid/HCl/Muriatic Acid.

NOTE: Sulfuric acid is not very well suited towards this extraction, as it reacts with lye to form sodium sulfate which is very poorly water-soluble. This may result in a generous white precipitate.

Reaction:

2NaOH + H2SO4 => Na2SO4 + 2H2O

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1556 Acids]

=== How can I convert sodium bicarbonate into sodium carbonate ===

==== Link ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Conversion_of_Sodium_Bicarbonate_into_Sodium_Carbonate Sodium bicarb -> carb conversion wiki]

=== How long each acid cook? ===

30 min - 2 hours cooks in a crockpot on low-medium (or just low fire on the stove). Some people avoid boiling and only simmer, but it appears DMT salts are very stable even at boil temperatures, so there doesnt seem to be diminishing yields when boiling. Also, it's important to stir once in a while during the acid cook.

=== How many acid cooks? ===

General consensus talks about 3 runs, 2 being minimum and 5 being over-careful.

=== Can I make one long cook instead of 3 shorter ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== Which ratio of MHRB:Lye:Water is the best? ===

For STBs, 1g MHRB:1g Lye:15ml Water is generally accepted as a good ratio. People have had success with significantly less water, but 15ml per g bark is a recommended amount because less than that might make the whole mixture too thick and it can make the separation of the solvent more difficult. Also, one actually needs much less lye but this amount of lye helps prevent emulsions forming as well helps break down the plant material so that dmt is more exposed to the water.

Alternatively, one can just add enough lye for the solution to turn completely black, and go ahead and extract. If emulsions form, add more lye. One does not need to worry about over-basifying, there's no such thing. Excess lye will stay behind in the water layer once you separate the solvent in any case.

=== Can I scale down/up the amounts stated in a tek if I want to extract different amounts of mimosa? ===

Yes, just scale the quantities proportionally according to your situation

=== Can I make one big pull instead of few smaller ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be significantly smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

==== Links ====

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== How big should the pulls be / How much to pre-evaporate before freezing? ===

100ml per pull per 200g bark (or a 2:1 ratio of bark:naphtha) is a sensible recomendation. More wont hurt but it will waste solvent as you will have to evaporate much afterwards. Less solvent per pull is even better, as long as you repeat more pulls to compensate. Sometimes people use more solvent than this recommended amount, like when for example if using this ratio in one's container the layers are too thin and it is hard to separate the solvent (though there are [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#How_to_pull_.2F_get_the_solvent_off_from_the_mix.3F tricks for better separation]). If the plan is to freeze precipitate and one uses more naphtha than the recommended amount, it is recommended to pre-evaporate the naphtha before freezing.

The amount that one should pre-evaporate depends of course on how much solvent used. The idea about pre-evap is that the solvent should be as saturated as possible with dmt so that most or all of it precipitates when put in the freezer. If its not saturated enough, then not much (or not at all) will precipitate. So if one used more than 3:1 ratio of bark:solvent, then pre-evaporate enough to reach the equivalent of it (so if one used, lets say, 100ml per 100g bark, pre evaporating till a third of original volume is recommended). [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=150095#post150095 Here's] an attempt to explain why not having it saturated enough may result in no or low yield

Later pulls will most likely be less saturated with dmt than first pulls, so for the later pulls (like lets say the 4th and 5th), it would be logical to pre-evaporate even more than the first pulls. In the example given above, instead of evaporating until a third of original volume, maybe one could evaporate until there is only a quarter or a fifth of original volume.

Some people gauge the amount of pre-evaporation by doing it until the solvent starts getting cloudy.

In any case, remember to re-use the naphtha after retrieving the crystals from precipitation, and/or evaporating it all the way down to see if there are any actives that remained in the naphtha after the freeze precipitation

If one is extracting a different plant or using a different solvent, then the ratio recommendation can change. Though in extractions that one salts out the solvent (like for example in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] and other limonene-based extractions), one can (and even should) use significantly more solvent, because all alkaloids will anyways be retrieved with the salting step.

=== The layers wont separate, what to do? ===

Possible fixes:
# Dont shake next time, if you did so! Instead, Stir/roll/turn upside down slowly, several times.
# Add more basic water/lye to the mix (either mix is not basic enough or too much plant matter for too little water)
# Make a warm water bath with the whole container (remember no fire sources near solvents, and leave top slightly open for preventing building up of pressure)
# Tapping on the side of the container/vibration (like sitting on top of washing mashine)
# Adding plenty of no-additives non-iodized salt (will make the water more polar and therefore chemically help in the separation)

====Links====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5866 Naphtha won' seperate?]

=== My Solvent is Brown/Dark, what to do ? ===

It happens for some people that after mixing the solvent with the mimosa solution, the naphtha picks up a lot of color and when the layers are separated, there is no emulsion but the naphtha is very dark, brown/burgundy. The exact reasons for this are still unknown, but it seems to happen mostly with STB extractions, powdered bark and heated pulls. It may be that there are microscopic suspended particles of the mimosa/black liquid which for some reason refuse to settle, but nobody yet knows for sure.

Considering this is not an emulsion issue (if so, it can be solved as stated [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#The_layers_wont_separate.2C_what_to_do.3F here]), this issue can be solved by:

1- Wait a few hours and see if the color settles and the solvent layer gets clearer.

2- Separate the pull as you would normally, and do a sodium carbonate wash (explanation also here in the FAQ). If the wash isnt sufficient to get the dark away, then :

3- Do a 'mini A/B' (mixing the separated dark solvent with vinegar 3x, separating the vinegar and discarding the solvent. Then basify the vinegar by adding lye, and pull with fresh solvent)

=== How to pull / get the solvent off from the mix? ===

* [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Each person finds his own way. One of the practical ways is to first, with HDPE or glass pipette/turkey baster/glass syringe, crudely separate the solvent and maybe a bit of the mimosa mix into a tall thin container. Then, with another pipette/glass syringe (or same one, washed), separate the solvent (it will be easier due to being thiner container, so solvent layer will be thicker than before) to the final container for evap or freeze precip. On this second separation, only pull out what you are sure you can do accurately, and the last bit throw back into the main container. Often people complain that the turkey baster wont hold the solvent well and will start releasing liquid as soon as you stop pulling. A [http://www.plastyshack.com/images/glass_syringe.jpg glass syringe] or pipette will work better, you can find them sold in lab/chem/medical supply stores or online in a variety of shops.

* [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Same as above, or also using a separatory funnel.

=== Should I wash my spice? ===

Washing spice has as a main function to eliminate any possible lye or other polar impurities (like droplets of the mimosa basic mix) from the final product, which might make the smoke harsher. Nevertheless, unless one was sloppy and some of the basic mimosa liquid came through to the solvent when separating, there should be nothing or very small amounts of it in your final product.

In any case if one feels better making sure the spice is cleaner (because we all know how important our mental state is in these experiences, even if its clean but if you're worried it might make the experience worse), or if one's spice is unusually harsh, then proceed to a sodium carbonate wash (DO NOT WASH WITH AMMONIA! Many people report losing yield with ammonia wash )

# Have your product still in the solvent, before evaporation/precipitation. If you have already in crystal form, redissolve in a naphtha/heptane/hexane.
# Add anywhere in between a pinch to 5 grams of sodium carbonate (yes, doesnt matter... All that is necessary is for it to be a basic solution) to 100ml clean water.
# Add your spice-containing solvent and the sodium carbonate solution together in a container. Mix/shake/whatever (emulsions will not form).
# Separate the solvent from the sodium carbonate solution using pippette/turkey baster/syphon/separatory funnel. One can repeat steps 2-4 if desired, but not strictly necessary
# Freeze precipitate or evaporate to retrieve your DMT

Remember that regardless of washing, its still very important to make sure there are no solvent traces in your spice, which can be done with thorough air drying, or redissolving your dmt in a non-toxic (or less toxic) solvent like ethanol, or pure IPA/Acetone, and evapping that again

=== No precipitation or low yield? ===

# Stir/mix and let separate the layers many times over a longer period of time before pulling the solvent out of the mix, dont just let it stand.
# Evap till theres only a quarter of the naphtha left and repeat freeze precip. If this doesnt help:
# Add more lye/base in the basic solution and try again, with small warm, thoroughly mixed pulls
# If its evapped and it seems like small amount of goo, it may actually be more than it seems because goo is heavier crystals. Recrystallize goo as FAQ instructions or infuse some herbs and weigh herbs before and after infusing to know exact yield.

Other possibilities:
* Bad mimosa/plant material
* Not the right solvent (if solvent has aromatics like xylene mixed in, it wont freeze precipitate, and will evap into a gooey product, mix of dmt and other plant impurities)

=== Melting/dissapearing crystals after freeze precipitation / Whats the best way to retrieve crystals after freezing? ===

This usually happens because of remaining solvent residues warming up and redissolving the crystals.

A trick to work around that is to freeze precipitate for a day or so (if you already have the melted crystals, then redissolve them in small amounts of warm naphtha and back into the freezer), and after crystals have precipitated, take it out of the freezer, pour the naphtha off (through coffee filter just in case any crystals are not stuck to the container), close the container and put it upside down in the freezer for some more hours. This way, any remaining naphtha trapped inside the crystals will drop off to the lid of the container on the bottom.

So after those few hours, take out out of the freezer, opening the lid still upside down so the naphtha drops off, and then you can scrape the drier crystals, put them on top of a coffee filter or on a plate/petri dish to finish air drying, and voilá.

The container used for precipitation is ideally something with a lid that closes well, like a mason jar, and that the edges and walls are straight so you can scrape it off more easily. Scrape as much as you can of the dmt, and whatever is left inside, leave it and reuse the container for the next precipitation, or if its the last precipitation of the extraction, you can use some alcohol (or even naphtha, if its clean evapping naphtha) to pick the last bits up and evaporate in a dish or easy to scrape flat-bottom wide container.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=2290 DMT crystals melting]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=72767#post72767 Question about freeze precipitation times]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3519 Yellow goo. Won't crystallize]

=== Only getting goo with Acacia extraction ===

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=39030 Getting crystals with Acacia confusa]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=440164 Enough GOO questions...]

=== How to safely heat a solvent ? ===

With the solvent safely stored far away, boil some water with any method you want. Once water is boiled, turn off heat source, get the solvent, put it in a glass and submerge the bottom of the glass on a pot containing your recently boiled water. In some seconds/minutes your solvent should be warm and you can use it for recrystallizing or pulling. NEVER warm up solvents directly with a heat source, specially no gas/open fire but even do not use electrical equipment unless it's a safe laboratory hotplate made for such purposes that will guarantee not to create sparks.

=== How does one recrystallize? ===

1- Boil some water. Turn off the fire.

2- Add your impure spice to a shotglass (weigh it before to know the amount).

3- Add around 20-30ml of naphtha/heptane/hexane per gram of impure spice to the shotglass.

4- submerge the bottom of the glass in the water. Leave it standing and/or stir it around a little bit. Most of the spice should redissolve in a few minutes, but probably a layer of goo will stay on the bottom.

5-Decant or pippette your naphtha away from the goo, put this naphtha in a clean container, close it, and into the freezer overnight for freeze precipitation. Alternatively, instead of freezing, if one wants to grow large crystals, put in a container with the lid semi-closed and/or in a place with very little air circulation, so that the naphtha evaporates very slowly. The slower the evap, the larger the crystal growth.

Its possible small amount of spice is still in the goo, so you can add another 5 or 10ml to the shotglass with the goo to pick up the last bits of dmt. This second pull will be more impure as it will pick some oils up, so freeze precipitate it separately. The goo can then be discarded

If one doesnt have a scale or for some reason cant weigh the spice, warm up a quantity of naphtha in a shotglass without the dmt and slowly add small quantities of the warm naphtha to the container containing dmt while stiring, until most dmt dissolved but a bottom layer of goo remains. Then follow step 5.
http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Can_I_make_one_long_cook_instead_of_3_shorter_ones.3F

==== Links ====

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=10545#post10545 Glass Shard Re-Crystallization Pictorial]

=== How many times can I reuse my solvent? ===

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=335995#post335995 On reusing non polar solvents]

=== What to do with the waste? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3072 What to do with the waste]

=== How Can I Extract DMT From Phalaris? ===

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phalaris_%28grass%29 Phalaris] is a genus of grasses with very variable alkaloid content, which means it's very hard or impossible to really say if a given Phalaris will have a good alkaloid content in terms of what alkaloids are present and in what amounts. Some Phalaris have very little to no DMT (or 5-MeO-DMT or Beta-Carbolines), and yet have plenty of potentially toxic alkaloids such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gramine gramine], while others have good amounts of wanted tryptamines and low gramine content. There are also tryptamines and beta-carbolines in Phalaris which have unknown activity and safety profile such as 5-MeO-NMT and others. This variability is especially the case with wild Phalaris or those grown from seeds so, for a more reliable alkaloid content, the clones of known strains such as AQ1, Big Medicine (for DMT) and Turkey Red (for 5-MeO-DMT) are probably a better bet.

'''Even though some people have reported some variable success, we do NOT recommend people to ingest a crude brew made with Phalaris grass due to the unknown amounts of possible toxic alkaloids. If using Phalaris, extract it first as mentioned below'''

If growing Phalaris yourself, [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/images/8/8a/Festiandsamorini.pdf this]publication goes over all the factors of growth that affect the alkaloid content. Please check it out. Here's some selected quotes:

* "The highest concentration (of alkaloids) is in the upper third part of the seedling leaf."
* "The total alkaloid concentration decreases with plant maturity"
* "Total alkaloids are more concentrated in the first regrowth, after the cutting or grazing, than in the first growth just after sowing, decreasing then in the following regrowths"
* "The availability of soil nitrogen increases the alkaloids concentration"
* "In soil, but not in nutrient solution cultivations, the concentration of indole alkaloids (...) increase is greater in plants supplied with ammonium nitrogen compared to the nitric source"
* "Samples of P. arundinacea growing with 20% of the full sunlight can contain an amount of DMT about twice compared to control; 5-MeO-DMT may increase up to a factor of 25"
* "DMT seems to show a maximum in the first hours of the morning, at least in shaded plants, whereas 5-MeODMT reaches a concentration peak in late morning"

Regarding the extraction itself, the plant should be extracted as soon as possible after harvesting since plant enzyme activity can break down alkaloids, even if drying the plant. If plant is not extracted immediately, it should be stored in an alcoholic solution in cold and dark. For extraction, a standard A/B could potentially work well, boiling plant material 3x in acidic water (pH anywhere from 1-6 should work), filtering, reducing to small manageable amount by low boil or simmering, and then basing with NaOH and pulling with solvent. Alternatively, a dry tek (check the nexus extraction teks wiki for more info) with calcium hydroxide or sodium carbonate could work but there haven't been enough tests to say for sure.

Regarding what solvents to use, hexane/heptane or equivalent solvents such as naphtha should work well as gramine is very poorly soluble in it, but if using naphtha make sure that it doesn't contain xylene or aromatics mixed in. Some people report specially low yields with naphtha and suggest cooking oil or room temperature limonene instead (check hippie salad oil tek link below) Cold/room temperature limonene also seems to work to separate tryptamines from gramine but more work needs to be done to make sure this separation is good enough. Check the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] for the most up-to-date info, since solubility tests on gramine are being done right now. If using naphtha or similar hydrocarbons, doing a recrystallization is a good idea to help removing other unwanted alkaloids that may have come across. Using less selective solvents like DCM, xylene, toluene or others (or acetone or alcohols in a dry tek) would pull the potentially toxic unwanted alkaloids, so its not recommended to use those, unless you do a clean up at the end

If you extract from Phalaris, we would be very thankful if you document the process (notes and/or pictures) and post so that we all can learn about the results, whether they are good or not. Please try smoking/ingesting only a very small amount at first if you do. Ideally, purchase colorimetric reagents such as marquis or ehrlich to help identifying the final product if it contains the wanted alkaloids (more info in the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] )

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=44863 Hippie salad oil tek v 2]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=16810&p=7 Phalaris way of the future thread]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=28869 PDF on processing phalaris]

=== Can I use another solvent like xylene after having pulled with naphtha? ===

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359465#post359465 Can SWIM Use Dif Solvents To Extract Different Ranges of Spice?]

== DMT Usage/Methods of administration ==

=== Is my spice ok to smoke? ===

Often people ask in the forum if their spice is ok to smoke, followed by a picture or description of the dmt's appearance. Nevertheless, there are several other variables which simple color does not tell, and which are essential to decide whether one shoud or not smoke it. Please check link below for detailed information:

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=11715 IMPORTANT: spice color purity fallacy AKA is your dmt ok to smoke ? ]

=== How to brew ayahuasca or analogues (mimosa hostilis / syrian rue)? ===

The standard way of brewing is to first of all have the material powdered/grinded or pounded as fine as possible. Then
* 1- boil on low fire (or simmer) the plant material for around three hours (some people do even longer but not necessary unless material is too coarsely shredded.. Also energetic/ecological costs become higher). Use mineral or distilled water ideally, some tap water can have too high pH and diminish yields/potency. Use enough water to cover the plant material.
* 2- filter/strain the brew to separate the liquids and solids, store the liquid separately,
* 3- add fresh water to the solids and boil everything again. Do this for a total of 3 or 4 times,
* 4- put the liquid from the 3 or 4x boils together, keep filtered/decanted solids separately for stp 6,
* 5- reduce the liquid on low fire/simmer to a manageable ammount, like for example 70ml per dose (dosages/amounts of each plant in [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this thread]

OPTIONAL:
* 6- If you want to be very thorough and get all the alkaloids out, you can now soak the plant material in vinegar for a day, then freeze and thaw it, then boil it for another hour or two. This should have a significant amount of alkaloids, which can either be extracted by basing and filtering like the Easy Caapi Extraction Tek, and the alkaloids added to the main brew (or consumed separately in some other occasion), or you could also consume this orally directly but due to the vinegar it will taste very bad, so it's better to at least base it with sodium carbonate slowly until it stops bubbling and/or reaches a pH of around 6, and then it will taste better.

The MAOI containing plant (banisteriopsis caapi vine or syrian rue) can be boiled together with the DMT containing plant (psychotria viridis or mimosa hostilis, or just add some extracted dmt in appropriate dosage to the caapi/rue brew), but specially if its the first time with a particular plant batch, its recommended to brew separately the two, and first find out the potency of the plant by drinking first a small amount.

An acid can be added to the brew (such as a dash of lemon or vinegar), but this is not strictly necessary (and neither the traditional indigenous way), specially if your plant is finely powdered, because alkaloids in the plant are naturally in water-soluble form. Though acid can increase the potency of the brew (specially for non-powdered plant material), it will also make it taste worse. To get the best out of all the worlds, its recommended to do step 6, so you have a better tasting brew without acid, but you still get any remaining alkaloids at the end in the final acid soak.

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8972 all about aya <3 ]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=51 Ayahuasca subforum]
* [[Ayahuasca using Syrian Rue & Acacia confusa]]

=== Whats the best smoking method? ===

The [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] gives some tips not only on vaporizing methods but other tips, check it out.

Different people preffer different methods. FORGET THE LIGHTBULB METHOD as it only works for a small percentage of people, most report problems.

-
==== '''Vaporgenie''' ====

A big number of people in the Nexus claim the vaporgenie to be the best vaporizing method by far! The vaporgenie is claimed to be significantly more effective as well as having a much smoother vapor than other smoking methods so if one is having trouble with harsh smoke or low effects, try the vaporgenie out. The Glass VaporGenie is recommended but otherwise the classic one will work perfectly fine.

The first thing if you're vaporizing pure DMT, is to get a [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=42867 ceramic disc] or a volcano liquid pad and cut it up to fit the vaporgenie, otherwise the DMT will melt through the screens, even if it's multiple screens. Check the vaporgenie thread linked below for more details

Begin with the flame a few cms above the top and adjust as you go. With empty lungs, start inhaling slowly and steady. The idea is to inhale a dense vapour, but not too dense so that you start coughing. Its better to begin the inhaling with a not so dense smoke, and then make it denser towards the end. Keep the vapor in the lungs for as long as possible, at least 10 seconds. If you coughed or exhaled before this or couldnt inhale with all the lungs, try keeping the flame further away or adjusting the speed of inhaling so that its a bit less dense.

Usually it takes anywhere between 1-3 hits, or anywhere between 25-50mg for a full breakthrough, if you got your technique right. A torch lighter is recommended, but a normal lighter will also work fine.

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=39961#post39961 VG VaporGenie: How to use, where to get, advantages, etc]

- If you cant or dont want to afford a vaporgenie, a good possibility is to make your own vaporization tool like:

===='''amorfati's Inspirator MKII'''====

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8985 Link to how to build/use the Inspirator mKII]

For a vaporization to be really effective, the DMT should be heated by convection (hot air), not conduction (hot glass/pipe/material), so vaporgenie and inspirator are recommended. If you dont want to use these methods, there are other possibilities which are less effective and risk burning DMT instead of just vaporizing, but it does work decently enough for many people:

===='''- Bong/leaf bed/enhanced leaf'''====

One method also considered successful by some is in a water bong (or plain bong), with a couple of metal screens, a thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on the bottom, then the dmt in the middle, and then another thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on top.
It is essential to go very easy on the fire, because too much heat will degrade DMT. Keep the lighter as far away as possible so that it still vaporizes but doesnt over-heat your DMT
50mg seems to be a good dose if one wants to really go inside the dmt dimension. Inhale slowly and deeply, holding in the lungs as much as possible (at least a few seconds), exhaling, and then taking a second, third one if possible, and even fourth one if one still can. Even if after the first there are already some effects, if one really wants to breakthrough, gotta keep going as much as one can.

Specifically for enhanced leaf check link below

====''' The Machine'''====

Check links below

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=39961#post39961 VG VaporGenie: How to use, where to get, advantages, etc]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6014 Helps and tips for smoking spice]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=280594 My version of the "Machine" - How to make it in <15 minutes]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6131 Ban the Bulb - Modify the Machine]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to enhanced leaf changa]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5633 Thoughts on using a VaporGenie]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6317 Troubles with The Machine]

=== I dont get any effects/light buzz only, what to do? ===

99% of the times, when people do not get effects, they are having a bad vaporization method, most likely burning the sspice. Try one of the methods above, and considering it is dmt and one smokes it right, it should work. Other possibility is that one has a very impure product with too much plant oils and so on. One can perform one or more recrystalizations to get a purer product that is easier to weight accurately and vaporize, and then try methods above.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=86732#post86732 Trouble Breaking Through???]

=== Fear going into a trip ===

If you're afraid of dark things coming from inside of you and are not willing to face them, you should not consume any psychedelics at all...

If you're afraid but willing to face them, then that's another thing.

And whether it's changa, pharma, or aya or vaporized DMT, it doesn't matter much, those dark things can come out with one or the other.

A low dosage may help, yes, and so can a proper set and setting, but this is no guarantee you won't be facing what you fear the most. It can, and most likely will happen at some point, whether now or after a certain number of experiences. Whenever we take psychedelics, it's as if we sign a contract saying we accept all those possibilities. So think well before signing, and if you do sign, make sure to get all the preparations right before the time come, take it in a proper context and to humbly accept whatever may come, take responsibility for it, and learn from it.

==== Link ====

*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=470491#post470491 Suddenly concerned]

=== Denied breakthrough / Dark DMT trips / Not good experiences anymore ? ===

It happens with several people that they feel they aren't getting good experiences anymore, that the trips are consistently of dark motifs, negative feelings, or that the breakthrough is denied, regardless of dosage. There isn't a ready answer for why this happens, but it seems a few factors may be related to it. In many cases, this happens when people are having a regular or excessive DMT use, or when they haven't been dedicating enough to their daily lives, to [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration integration] of the experiences. Also, it may have in some cases to do with the intentions one sets before vaporizing the DMT, and with how one's mind state and the context in general is.

So a few tips on how to deal with this issue:

1- Take a break! The DMT hyperspace will always be there, there is no rush to go right now! Stop your DMT usage (and maybe drug usage altogether), dedicate to daily life, live a balanced healthy life, eat well, exercise, study, work. Do not obsess about DMT, try to only come back once you feel you have really made enough effort in improving your daily life. At least a few months break is recommended.

2- If and once you do decide to try it again, make sure it is a good place and time for it. Take care with using in the best set and setting possible (look further down the FAQ for recommended setting).

3- Do not smoke it impulsively. Meditate or spend a few minutes in silence, concentrating, breathing deeply and slowly.

4- Set your intentions straight. Question yourself why you are doing this. Try to have the best intentions and reasons as possible.

5- Use a good smoking method such as the vaporgenie or others as recommended above.

6- If it still doesnt work out for you, take an even longer break (many months/years), and/or stop it altogether. Realize that maybe DMT is just not for you. Its not a problem to admit one's relationship with a substance is not working, in fact, it shows you're being humble and conscious.

==== Link ====

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration Health and Safety section: Integration]
* [http://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=169680#post169680 what happened to the bright side?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=13515 Vaporized DMT not having an effect in those who it has worked for previously]

=== What are the dosages for ... ? ===

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 Dosages and different forms of ingestion]

=== What is the best setting/context to consume spice? ===

Check [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] for some tips on setting, preparation and also integration

* A comfortable quiet place is generally recommended. If there are friends around they should be requested to remain quiet while someone is embarking on this experience and only start speaking once the explorer talks himself and allows others. Possibility of telefone ringing or street noises or other interruptions is definitely NOT recommended.
* The presence of music or not depends a lot on personal taste. Some prefer full silence to 'concentrate' more deeply and mention that any stimulus keeps them too grounded in usual reality, while others can have very deep interconnected experiences with certain music of their own preference (often being some kind of chill out/ambient/ethno ).
* Many people preffer full darkness or indirect lighting, but sunset or sunrise in a nice nature place (if safe) can also be marvelous.
* Obviously '''DO NOT''' have sharp objects around, smoke next to cliffs, driving etc...
* It is very rare, but it may happen that one feels nauseated and/or vomits, so specially first times or those doing alone, its also recommended to have a bucket nearby, and to sit comfortably, resting the back against something soft in a way that you wont slip or fall, such as an armchair, bed with backrest/pillows or comfortable sofa.
* While we are not aware of any deaths, it would be irresponsible to discount the possibility that blocking your airway while deep in hyperspace could prove fatal, so be in a position/place where you are safe even if not conscious of the surroundings. During traditional ayahuasca ceremonies participants sit on the floor or in a comfortable chair. We recommend sitting upright (slightly reclined for stability) comfortably because the launch is far more immediate and surprising with vaporised DMT. Think of it as your pilot seat- you wouldn't fly a plane any other way!
* If you do not have a sitter to take the pipe from you, be sure that you have a safe and easy place very near to put it down when you feel hyperspace approaching. You will not be inclined to move your hand very far, so we would recommend a fireproof shelf of sorts less than a foot away. Just smoking cigarettes in bed kills many people every year, and obviously the same dangers are relevent with DMT. We have heard one report of a member who returned from an unenjoyable trip to find that she had dropped the pipe onto her leg, resulting in a nasty burn.
* Prior meditation or at least focusing on intention and inner calm can be benefiting.
* Remember to let go, dont struggle. Its normal that the hearbeat accelerates in the come up. Some people fear they are dying or that they wont return, but dont worry FOR SURE you come back, as it has happened with everybody else. Some people feel that they lose their breath, but its just a feeling.. As long as the airway is not physically blocked, then dont worry our body has a built-in mechanism that prevents one from stopping breathing.
* Dont be scared, entities cant hurt you in real life if you dont believe it. Try to not make 'good/bad' judgements during the experience, dont resist!! Just go with the flow of the ride. Some images may appear positive, negative, incredible, impossible to describe, etc, but you are safe regardless of what comes.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5900 Favourite setting for smoking DMT]

=== What about other ingestion methods (intranasal, intrarectal, Atomizer/E-cig etc) ? ===

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods Ingestion Methods]

=== Can DMT be IVed? ===

It can, but we do not recommend it mainly for two reasons:

1- The only official research done with DMT by Rick Strassmann used FDA-approved ultra pure DMT fumarate. The quality of home extraction products is questionable, one may have solvent traces and other impurities that could be uncomfortable, painful or downright dangerous to inject.

2- The onset of the effects are so quick that one might not be able to take out the needle in time and accidentally ripping their vein out while in hyperspace, or putting it down too near and rolling around/puncturing oneself

IF one is gonna do it inspite of contrary recommendations, then please: Take care in making many purifying steps (several recrystallizations/washes) and making sure it has no solvent or other chemical traces in the final product (redissolving the recrystallized product in USP grade acetone or ethanol and re-evaporating, scrapping and letting it dry completely before converting to fumarates in a sterile solution, etc.). Check the first link below for tips on how to prepare for injection and safety proceedures

Also, for the first try, take at most 0.2mg/kg, preferably less. And VERY importantly, [[do NOT do it by yourself]], have a sitter that is experienced with needles inject for you and be there to make sure you are physically safe.

==== Links ====

* [http://www.hipforums.com/newforums/showpost.php?p=6347899&postcount=5 Entheogen Review article on safe injection proceedure]
* [http://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4128 iv dmt]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1521 IV DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3016 IV DMT?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=144148 Injecting DMT]
* [http://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=7450 FASA safe for injection?]

=== How can I estimate the amount of mimosa? ===

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=236540#post236540 Estimating mimosa amount]

== DMT/Plant storage ==

=== Does DMT go bad? ===

The main degradation product of dmt seems to be dmt n-oxide, which is also psychoactive. Some people enjoy and find qualitative difference in n-oxide compared to dmt. On the other hand, other people report negative experiences with old spice, but it is unknown how much is self-suggestion and how much is really true. The rate at which dmt converts to n-oxide logically depends on factors such as air exposure and temperature, but so far there havent been any quantitative tests to tell how fast it goes in a given condition.

In any case, n-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

Many people convert the freebase to dmt fumarate for storage, as its claimed to be a more stable salt.

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1553 DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=302112#post302112 DMT oxidation rate]

=== Does mimosa go bad? ===

Generally mimosa should not go bad even after months/years. If it looks fine and doesnt have some mutant fungus growing on it, its perfect :) There are reports of people using mimosa that was for many months or even years in a drawer without any significant problem (though as with anything, its always more prudent to store in dark, dry, cold place).

The main possible degradation is of dmt into dmt n-oxide. Dmt n-oxide is also psychoactive, but it is not soluble in naphtha, which may cause some people to get small yields when extracting from older bark. N-oxide is soluble in limonene/xylene/toluene/etc, so one could extract it with those solvents without loss of yield. Alternatively, N-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

For oral usage of mimosa, formation of n-oxide wouldnt really affect much as it will be water soluble so one will still get the effects when consuming the brew.

==== Links ====
* [[DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3570 How long should MHRB keep]

=== Whats the best way to store DMT? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

In any case, one can also convert to dmt fumarate which is a very stable salt form of dmt

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4482 Long-term storage]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4867 How to store DMT for longest]

=== Whats the best way to store Mimosa? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

Logically, bark in pieces will keep better than when powdered

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1488 Storing mimosa hostilis]

== DMT Allies ==

=== What is jungle spice ? ===

http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359543#post359543
Jungle Spice is the product resulting from an extraction of mimosa hostilis using a solvent more polar than naphtha (such as xylene, toluene, limonene, ether, DCM, etc). Sometimes people also call it JimJam, which was first called only for limonene extracted products, but analysis shown it to be equivalent to what is extracted with xylene. Chemical analysis has shown that both naphtha as well as xylene/limonene extract mostly DMT (around 90%), plus around or under 1% 2-methy-1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-beta-carboline (2MTHBC) and NMT. The psychoactivity of 2MTHBC is unknown at this point, and NMT does appear to be psychoactive, though a quarter of the potency of DMT. Appart from these mentioned alkaloids, Xylene, when evaporated, and both limonene or xylene, when salted with an acidic solution like vinegar or FASW, also yield around 0.2% MTHBC (tetrahydroharman), and what could be 1,2-dimethyl-tetrahydrobetacarboline or a yuremamine degradation product (as suggested by dozuki in the jungle spice analysis thread linked below). Very little to nothing is known about these two 'extra' beta-carbolines in junglespice/jimjam, if they are psychoactive or can potentiate DMT.

Some people claim jungle spice to be stronger or produce a different experience than pure DMT. This may be self-suggestion (people thinking it is stronger/different therefore feeling it), it may be that the inactive oils/impurities present in jungle spice somehow protect DMT from heat, making a more effective vaporization, and therefore feel stronger. It may also be that the beta carbolines together, have a synergistic effect with DMT making a stronger experience, or it may be that these beta carbolines would only really be noticeable if they were in a larger quantity as is the case with some Acacias. It may be a mixture of any or all of the above possibilities.

Only further testing (such as blind self-experiments and more analysis) will help us isolating the variables and answer the questions on junglespice's activity

For more information on jungle spice, check the links below

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1115 Jungle Spice]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=10553 Jungle Spice chemical analysis]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23544 Entheogenic effects of NMT]

=== What is changa / How to make changa ? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Changa Changa WIKI]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to DMT enhanced leaf (changa)] thread
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=27537 How does your changa looks like ?] thread

=== What type of caapi/ayahuasca vine should I use, what are the differences ? ===

Different ethnobotanical suppliers seem to stock different varieties of caapi. Often they use color names (for example black caapi, white caapi, etc), or other names used by local / mestizos / indigenous people (caupuri, ourinhos, etc). The problem is that there is no consensus regarding the classification of different caapi vines, so some indigenous people may recognize 2 types, in another tribe they may recognize 10 types, and so on. These types may overlap or they may even be in contradiction with each other. Also botanists would not necessarily agree with those types, as sometimes classification from indigenous people is not based on how a plant looks, but also on its effects, purpose, etc. In fact, some of what is sold as "black/red/whatever caapi" may even be of a different genus/species altogether (more discussion on this on links below)

There is an ongoing analysis project going on with different caapi/ayahuasca vines (link below), and it seems some caapis have very similar alkaloid/chemical component even if they have different names, while others may have quite different content even if they are named the same. The difference can be in ratio of alkaloids or total alkaloid yield, for example some black caapi from one vendor yielded over 2% alkaloids, a black caapi from another vendor yielded 0.5%.

Regarding the type/function/effects of different caapis, at this point any conclusions and generalizations are not possible. As an example, at times it's said that black caapi is used for more witchcraft kind of rituals by some shamans, but this doesnt mean that: a- that particular group is "correct", b-that other groups would agree with what they call "black caapi", c- That the black caapi you find is equivalent to that, d- that you cant use it for another purpose and have a great experience regardless.

It may be that there is a pattern between alkaloid content of different caapi vines (some may have more harmaline, or more THH, etc), but at this point we cannot yet say. Also even if a correctly identified subtype of caapi would have a specific alkaloid content, we would still have to make the assumption that the vendors are actually identifying correctly.

If you want to decide what type of caapi to get, one thing you could do is check the suppliers section and see if this specific caapi from the specific vendor has been reviewed, and dont believe in generalizations (all caapi "X" is strong and gives dark trips, all caapi "Y" is light and for beginners). Start with low dosage (10-20g) for the first time to gauge the strenght of this particular batch you have acquired, and then raise the dosage accordingly if necessary.

Another thing to do is to buy at least 2 different types and then take them in separate occasions, and then sharing the results with the community, and that way we all grow together.

Do check the links below as they have very relevant discussions regarding the different caapi types:

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29967 Caapi analysis thread]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32018 Poorly understood family of ayahuasca vines]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=30106 tetrapterys methystica (painted caapi) and other kinds of caapi]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=325495#post325495 Which caapi should I get ?]

== Plant sources ==

=== What are the best DMT-containing plants in my area ? ===

One good way to check what DMT plants you have around you is to look at the Nexus Wiki lists for [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT plants containing DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT] ) . Then use the search function of [http://www.discoverlife.org discoverlife page] or [http://bonap.org/genera-list.html bonap] to search the plants names and see in the species map if any of the good candidates grow near you, or alternatively, you can first identify the plants growing around you and search for their scientific name on the mentioned wiki lists.

If you don't find any plants growing around you, you can consider cultivating some ideal plants yourself, for example checking out the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=38229 Top Acacias To Grow Worldwide Thread] for the mid-long term, or getting known cuttings of phalaris with good alkaloid content such as AQ1 and big medicine (for more info check all the links in the first post of the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]) which can be harvested pretty quick

=== Does this plant contain DMT ? ===

Often people ask in the forum if the plant they have growing around them contains DMT. Then they might post pictures of the plants and expect an identification. Before that is done, the person asking needs to do some basic things:

1- Look up the information to know the plants that contain interesting alkaloids. The best resources are the Nexus wiki of plants containing [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT].

If it's an Acacia, read the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Acacia information thread] and if it's a Phalaris read the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]. Those threads contain information on seed suppliers, geographic location, season of harvest, conditions of growth and variation in alkaloid content, etc, which the person should become familiar with.

2-The person should try to identify the local plants based on the information in the above links. Posting picture of random plants without at least having some clue on what they could be, will only make everybody's life much harder. Look up images of suspected plants and compare, see in what they may differ.

3- Take detailed pictures of the different plant parts (overall plant, leaf close up front and back, seedpods and flower close ups if they are there). Often to differentiate between species the details are important, so blurry bad quality pictures or single pictures with no close ups or details of different plant parts are not enough.

4- Post your ID request in the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=358663#post358663 Acacia ID thread] if it's a suspected Acacia, or make a new thread if it's a differen't plant. Be sure to say what plant you think it is, and include information such as general geographic area, the detailed pics above, and any possible differences you may have seen with the plant you think it is.

5- If your plant gets identified and you plan on harvesting, please only harvest sustainably! Check [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=344487#post344487 this] post for more information

=== Links ===

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33512 Guide to Researching Psychoactive Plants: Resource List]'''

'''[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Containing_Plants WIKI -> DMT Containing Plants]'''

'''[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Botanicals WIKI -> Botanicals]'''

'''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=369566#post369566 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa ID.zip]'''

'''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33648 Acacia Identification Thread]'''

'''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Trying to improve Acacia information]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia ID.zip]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=34525 Phalaris/other grass types ID thread]'''

'''[http://www.erowid.org/plants/phalaris/phalaris_images.shtml Erowid.org -> Phalaris Grass Images]'''

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=173732#post173732 help identifying Phalaris arundinacea]'''

'''[http://extension.entm.purdue.edu/caps/pestInfo/reedCanaryGrass.htm extension.entm.purdue.edu -> Reed Canary Grass]'''

.

== Reference ==
<references/>

Category:Botanicals

2014-05-08T17:16:03Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Plants */

= Plants =

[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Containing_Plants WIKI -> DMT Containing Plants]

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa.zip]'''

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia.zip]
== General species info ==

* [[Acacia spp.]]
* [[Phalaris spp.]]

== All Plants ==

* [[Acacia abbatiana]]
* [[Acacia abbreviata]]
* [[Acacia abrupta]]
* [[Acacia acanthaster]]
* [[Acacia acanthoclada]]
* [[Acacia acellerata]]
* [[Acacia acinacea]]
* [[Acacia aciphylla]]
* [[Acacia acoma]]
* [[Acacia acradenia]]
* [[Acacia acrionastes]]
* [[Acacia acuaria]]
* [[Acacia aculeatissima]]
* [[Acacia aculeiformis]]
* [[Acacia acuminata]]
* [[Acacia acutata]]
* [[Acacia adenogonia]]
* [[Acacia adinophylla]]
* [[Acacia adnata]]
* [[Acacia adoxa]]
* [[Acacia adsurgens]]
* [[Acacia adunca]]
* [[Acacia aemula]]
* [[Acacia aestivalis]]
* [[Acacia alata]]
* [[Acacia alaticaulis]]
* [[Acacia albida (Faidherbia albida)]]
* [[Acacia alcockii]]
* [[Acacia alexandri]]
* [[Acacia alleniana]]
* [[Acacia alpina]]
* [[Acacia amanda]]
* [[Acacia amblygona]]
* [[Acacia amblyophylla]]
* [[Acacia amentifera]]
* [[Acacia ammobia]]
* [[Acacia ammophila]]
* [[Acacia amoena]]
* [[Acacia ampliata]]
* [[Acacia ampliceps]]
* [[Acacia amyctica]]
* [[Acacia anasilla]]
* [[Acacia anastema]]
* [[Acacia anastomosa]]
* [[Acacia anaticeps]]
* [[Acacia anceps]]
* [[Acacia ancistrocarpa]]
* [[Acacia ancistrophylla]]
* [[Acacia andrewsii]]
* [[Acacia aneura]]
* [[Acacia anfractuosa]]
* [[Acacia angusta]]
* [[Acacia angustifolia]]
* [[Acacia angustissima]]
* [[Acacia anomala]]
* [[Acacia anserina]]
* [[Acacia anthochaera]]
* [[Acacia aphylla]]
* [[Acacia applanata]]
* [[Acacia aprepta]]
* [[Acacia aprica]]
* [[Acacia aptaneura]]
* [[Acacia arafurica]]
* [[Acacia araneosa]]
* [[Acacia arbiana]]
* [[Acacia arcuatilis]]
* [[Acacia areolata]]
* [[Acacia argentina]]
* [[Acacia argutifolia]]
* [[Acacia argyraea]]
* [[Acacia argyrodendron]]
* [[Acacia argyrophylla]]
* [[Acacia argyrotricha]]
* [[Acacia arida]]
* [[Acacia aristulata]]
* [[Acacia armillata]]
* [[Acacia armitii]]
* [[Acacia arrecta]]
* [[Acacia ascendens]]
* [[Acacia asepala]]
* [[Acacia ashbyae]]
* [[Acacia asparagoides]]
* [[Acacia aspera]]
* [[Acacia asperulacea]]
* [[Acacia assimilis]]
* [[Acacia ataxiphylla]]
* [[Acacia atkinsiana]]
* [[Acacia atopa]]
* [[Acacia atrox]]
* [[Acacia attenuata]]
* [[Acacia aulacocarpa]]
* [[Acacia aulacophylla]]
* [[Acacia auratiflora]]
* [[Acacia aureocrinita]]
* [[Acacia auricoma]]
* [[Acacia auriculiformis]]
* [[Acacia auripila]]
* [[Acacia auronitens]]
* [[Acacia ausfeldii]]
* [[Acacia awestoniana]]
* [[Acacia axillaris]]
* [[Acacia ayersiana]]

* [[Acacia baeuerlenii]]
* [[Acacia baileyana]]
* [[Acacia bakeri]]
* [[Acacia balsamea]]
* [[Acacia bancroftiorum]]
* [[Acacia barakulensis]]
* [[Acacia barattensis]]
* [[Acacia barbinervis]]
* [[Acacia barrettiorum]]
* [[Acacia barringtonensis]]
* [[Acacia bartlei]]
* [[Acacia basedowii]]
* [[Acacia baueri]]
* [[Acacia baxteri]]
* [[Acacia beadleana]]
* [[Acacia beauverdiana]]
* [[Acacia beckleri]]
* [[Acacia benthamii]]
* [[Acacia berlandieri]]
* [[Acacia betchei]]
* [[Acacia bidentata]]
* [[Acacia bifaria]]
* [[Acacia biflora]]
* [[Acacia binata]]
* [[Acacia binervata]]
* [[Acacia binervia]]
* [[Acacia bivenosa]]
* [[Acacia blakei]]
* [[Acacia blakelyi]]
* [[Acacia blaxellii]]
* [[Acacia blayana]]
* [[Acacia boormanii]]
* [[Acacia botrydion]]
* [[Acacia brachybotrya]]
* [[Acacia brachycarpa]]
* [[Acacia brachyclada]]
* [[Acacia brachyphylla]]
* [[Acacia brachypoda]]
* [[Acacia brachystachya]]
* [[Acacia bracteolata]]
* [[Acacia brassii]]
* [[Acacia brockii]]
* [[Acacia bromilowiana]]
* [[Acacia brownii]]
* [[Acacia brumalis]]
* [[Acacia brunioides]]
* [[Acacia bulgaensis]]
* [[Acacia burbidgeae]]
* [[Acacia burdekensis]]
* [[Acacia burkittii]]
* [[Acacia burrana]]
* [[Acacia burrowii]]
* [[Acacia burrowsiana]]
* [[Acacia buxifolia]]
* [[Acacia bynoeana]]

* [[Acacia caerulescens]]
* [[Acacia caesaneura]]
* [[Acacia caesariata]]
* [[Acacia caesiella]]
* [[Acacia calamifolia]]
* [[Acacia calantha]]
* [[Acacia calcarata]]
* [[Acacia calcicola]]
* [[Acacia calligera]]
* [[Acacia calyculata]]
* [[Acacia cambagei]]
* [[Acacia camptocarpa]]
* [[Acacia camptoclada]]
* [[Acacia campylophylla]]
* [[Acacia cana]]
* [[Acacia cangaiensis]]
* [[Acacia capillaris]]
* [[Acacia cardiophylla]]
* [[Acacia carens]]
* [[Acacia carneorum]]
* [[Acacia carnosula]]
* [[Acacia caroleae]]
* [[Acacia cassicula]]
* [[Acacia castanostegia]]
* [[Acacia cataractae]]
* [[Acacia catechu]]
* [[Acacia catenulata]]
* [[Acacia cavealis]]
* [[Acacia caven]]
* [[Acacia cedroides]]
* [[Acacia celastrifolia]]
* [[Acacia celsa]]
* [[Acacia centrinervia]]
* [[Acacia cerastes]]
* [[Acacia chalkeri]]
* [[Acacia chamaeleon]]
* [[Acacia chapmanii]]
* [[Acacia chartacea]]
* [[Acacia cheelii]]
* [[Acacia chinchillensis]]
* [[Acacia chippendalei]]
* [[Acacia chisholmii]]
* [[Acacia chrysella]]
* [[Acacia chrysocephala]]
* [[Acacia chrysochaeta]]
* [[Acacia chrysopoda]]
* [[Acacia chrysotricha]]
* [[Acacia cincinnata]]
* [[Acacia citrinoviridis]]
* [[Acacia clandullensis]]
* [[Acacia claviseta]]
* [[Acacia clelandii]]
* [[Acacia clunies-rossiae]]
* [[Acacia clydonophora]]
* [[Acacia cochlearis]]
* [[Acacia cochlocarpa]]
* [[Acacia cockertoniana]]
* [[Acacia cognata]]
* [[Acacia colei]]
* [[Acacia colletioides]]
* [[Acacia comans]]
* [[Acacia complanata]]
* [[Acacia concolorans]]
* [[Acacia concurrens]]
* [[Acacia conferta]]
* [[Acacia confluens]]
* [[Acacia confusa]]
* [[Acacia congesta]]
* [[Acacia conjunctifolia]]
* [[Acacia conniana]]
* [[Acacia consanguinea]]
* [[Acacia consobrina]]
* [[Acacia conspersa]]
* [[Acacia constablei]]
* [[Acacia constricta]]
* [[Acacia continua]]
* [[Acacia convallium]]
* [[Acacia coolgardiensis]]
* [[Acacia coriacea]]
* [[Acacia cornigera]]
* [[Acacia costata]]
* [[Acacia costiniana]]
* [[Acacia courtii]]
* [[Acacia covenyi]]
* [[Acacia cowaniana]]
* [[Acacia cowleana]]
* [[Acacia cracentis]]
* [[Acacia craspedocarpa]]
* [[Acacia crassa]]
* [[Acacia crassicarpa]]
* [[Acacia crassistipula]]
* [[Acacia crassiuscula]]
* [[Acacia crassuloides]]
* [[Acacia cremiflora]]
* [[Acacia crenulata]]
* [[Acacia cretacea]]
* [[Acacia cretata]]
* [[Acacia crispula]]
* [[Acacia crombiei]]
* [[Acacia cultriformis]]
* [[Acacia cummingiana]]
* [[Acacia cuneifolia]]
* [[Acacia cupularis]]
* [[Acacia curranii]]
* [[Acacia curvata]]
* [[Acacia cuspidifolia]]
* [[Acacia cuthbertsonii]]
* [[Acacia cyclocarpa]]
* [[Acacia cyclops]]
* [[Acacia cylindrica]]
* [[Acacia cyperophylla]]

* [[Acacia dacrydioides]]
* [[Acacia dallachiana]]
* [[Acacia dangarensis]]
* [[Acacia daphnifolia]]
* [[Acacia daviesii]]
* [[Acacia daviesioides]]
* [[Acacia dawsonii]]
* [[Acacia dealbata]]
* [[Acacia deanei]]
* [[Acacia debilis]]
* [[Acacia declinata]]
* [[Acacia decora]]
* [[Acacia decurrens]]
* [[Acacia deficiens]]
* [[Acacia deflexa]]
* [[Acacia delibrata]]
* [[Acacia delicatula]]
* [[Acacia delphina]]
* [[Acacia deltoidea]]
* [[Acacia demissa]]
* [[Acacia dempsteri]]
* [[Acacia densiflora]]
* [[Acacia denticulosa]]
* [[Acacia dentifera]]
* [[Acacia depressa]]
* [[Acacia dermatophylla]]
* [[Acacia derwentiana]]
* [[Acacia desertorum]]
* [[Acacia desmondii]]
* [[Acacia deuteroneura]]
* [[Acacia diallaga]]
* [[Acacia diaphana]]
* [[Acacia diaphyllodinea]]
* [[Acacia diastemata]]
* [[Acacia dictyocarpa]]
* [[Acacia dictyoneura]]
* [[Acacia dictyophleba]]
* [[Acacia didyma]]
* [[Acacia dielsii]]
* [[Acacia dietrichiana]]
* [[Acacia difficilis]]
* [[Acacia difformis]]
* [[Acacia dilatata]]
* [[Acacia dimidiata]]
* [[Acacia diminuta]]
* [[Acacia dimorpha]]
* [[Acacia disparrima]]
* [[Acacia dissimilis]]
* [[Acacia dissona]]
* [[Acacia distans]]
* [[Acacia disticha]]
* [[Acacia divergens]]
* [[Acacia dodonaeifolia]]
* [[Acacia dolichophylla]]
* [[Acacia donaldsonii]]
* [[Acacia doratoxylon]]
* [[Acacia dorothea]]
* [[Acacia dorsenna]]
* [[Acacia drepanocarpa]]
* [[Acacia drepanophylla]]
* [[Acacia dunnii]]
* [[Acacia dura]]
* [[Acacia durabilis]]
* [[Acacia duriuscula]]

* [[Acacia echinula]]
* [[Acacia echinuliflora]]
* [[Acacia effusa]]
* [[Acacia effusifolia]]
* [[Acacia elachantha]]
* [[Acacia elata]]
* [[Acacia elongata]]
* [[Acacia enervia]]
* [[Acacia ensifolia]]
* [[Acacia enterocarpa]]
* [[Acacia epedunculata]]
* [[Acacia ephedroides]]
* [[Acacia equisetifolia]]
* [[Acacia eremaea]]
* [[Acacia eremophila]]
* [[Acacia eremophiloides]]
* [[Acacia ericifolia]]
* [[Acacia ericksoniae]]
* [[Acacia erinacea]]
* [[Acacia erioclada]]
* [[Acacia eriopoda]]
* [[Acacia errabunda]]
* [[Acacia estrophiolata]]
* [[Acacia euthycarpa]]
* [[Acacia euthyphylla]]
* [[Acacia evenulosa]]
* [[Acacia everistii]]
* [[Acacia excelsa]]
* [[Acacia excentrica]]
* [[Acacia exilis]]
* [[Acacia exocarpoides]]
* [[Acacia extensa]]
* [[Acacia exudans]]

* [[Acacia falcata]]
* [[Acacia falciformis]]
* [[Acacia farinosa]]
* [[Acacia fasciculifera]]
* [[Acacia faucium]]
* [[Acacia fauntleroyi]]
* [[Acacia fecunda]]
* [[Acacia ferocior]]
* [[Acacia filamentosa]]
* [[Acacia filicifolia]]
* [[Acacia filifolia]]
* [[Acacia filipes]]
* [[Acacia fimbriata]]
* [[Acacia flabellifolia]]
* [[Acacia flagelliformis]]
* [[Acacia flavescens]]
* [[Acacia flavipila]]
* [[Acacia fleckeri]]
* [[Acacia flexifolia]]
* [[Acacia flocktoniae]]
* [[Acacia floribunda]]
* [[Acacia floydii]]
* [[Acacia fodinalis]]
* [[Acacia formidabilis]]
* [[Acacia forrestiana]]
* [[Acacia forsythii]]
* [[Acacia fragilis]]
* [[Acacia frigescens]]
* [[Acacia froggattii]]
* [[Acacia fulva]]
* [[Acacia fuscaneura]]

* [[Acacia galeata]]
* [[Acacia galioides]]
* [[Acacia gardneri]]
* [[Acacia gelasina]]
* [[Acacia gemina]]
* [[Acacia genistifolia]]
* [[Acacia georgensis]]
* [[Acacia georginae]]
* [[Acacia gibbosa]]
* [[Acacia gibsonii]]
* [[Acacia gilesiana]]
* [[Acacia gillii]]
* [[Acacia gittinsii]]
* [[Acacia gladiiformis]]
* [[Acacia glandulicarpa]]
* [[Acacia glaucissima]]
* [[Acacia glaucocaesia]]
* [[Acacia glaucocarpa]]
* [[Acacia glaucoptera]]
* [[Acacia gloeotricha]]
* [[Acacia glutinosissima]]
* [[Acacia gnidium]]
* [[Acacia gonocarpa]]
* [[Acacia gonoclada]]
* [[Acacia gonophylla]]
* [[Acacia gordonii]]
* [[Acacia gracilenta]]
* [[Acacia gracilifolia]]
* [[Acacia graciliformis]]
* [[Acacia gracillima]]
* [[Acacia grandifolia]]
* [[Acacia graniticola]]
* [[Acacia grasbyi]]
* [[Acacia gregorii]]
* [[Acacia gunnii]]
* [[Acacia guymeri]]

* [[Acacia hadrophylla]]
* [[Acacia hakeoides]]
* [[Acacia halliana]]
* [[Acacia hamersleyensis]]
* [[Acacia hamiltoniana]]
* [[Acacia hammondii]]
* [[Acacia handonis]]
* [[Acacia harpophylla]]
* [[Acacia harveyi]]
* [[Acacia hastulata]]
* [[Acacia havilandiorum]]
* [[Acacia helicophylla]]
* [[Acacia helmsiana]]
* [[Acacia hemignosta]]
* [[Acacia hemiteles]]
* [[Acacia hemsleyi]]
* [[Acacia hendersonii]]
* [[Acacia heterochroa]]
* [[Acacia heteroclita]]
* [[Acacia heteroneura]]
* [[Acacia heterophylla]]
* [[Acacia hexaneura]]
* [[Acacia hilliana]]
* [[Acacia hippuroides]]
* [[Acacia hispidula]]
* [[Acacia hockingsii]]
* [[Acacia holosericea]]
* [[Acacia holotricha]]
* [[Acacia homaloclada]]
* [[Acacia homalophylla]]
* [[Acacia hopperiana]]
* [[Acacia horridula]]
* [[Acacia howittii]]
* [[Acacia hubbardiana]]
* [[Acacia huegelii]]
* [[Acacia humifusa]]
* [[Acacia hyaloneura]]
* [[Acacia hylonoma]]
* [[Acacia hypermeces]]
* [[Acacia hystrix]]

* [[Acacia idiomorpha]]
* [[Acacia imbricata]]
* [[Acacia imitans]]
* [[Acacia imparilis]]
* [[Acacia implexa]]
* [[Acacia improcera]]
* [[Acacia inaequilatera]]
* [[Acacia inaequiloba]]
* [[Acacia inamabilis]]
* [[Acacia incanicarpa]]
* [[Acacia inceana]]
* [[Acacia incognita]]
* [[Acacia incongesta]]
* [[Acacia incrassata]]
* [[Acacia incurva]]
* [[Acacia incurvaneura]]
* [[Acacia infecunda]]
* [[Acacia ingramii]]
* [[Acacia ingrata]]
* [[Acacia inophloia]]
* [[Acacia inops]]
* [[Acacia insolita]]
* [[Acacia intorta]]
* [[Acacia intricata]]
* [[Acacia irrorata]]
* [[Acacia islana]]
* [[Acacia isoneura]]
* [[Acacia iteaphylla]]
* [[Acacia ixiophylla]]
* [[Acacia ixodes]]

* [[Acacia jackesiana]]
* [[Acacia jacksonioides]]
* [[Acacia jamesiana]]
* [[Acacia jasperensis]]
* [[Acacia jennerae]]
* [[Acacia jensenii]]
* [[Acacia jibberdingensis]]
* [[Acacia johannis]]
* [[Acacia johnsonii]]
* [[Acacia jonesii]]
* [[Acacia jucunda]]
* [[Acacia julifera]]
* [[Acacia juncifolia]]

* [[Acacia kalgoorliensis]]
* [[Acacia karina]]
* [[Acacia kauaiensis]]
* [[Acacia kelleri]]
* [[Acacia kempeana]]
* [[Acacia kenneallyi]]
* [[Acacia kerryana]]
* [[Acacia kettlewelliae]]
* [[Acacia kimberleyensis]]
* [[Acacia kingiana]]
* [[Acacia koa]]
* [[Acacia koaia]]
* [[Acacia kochii]]
* [[Acacia kulnurensis]]
* [[Acacia kybeanensis]]
* [[Acacia kydrensis]]

* [[Acacia laccata]]
* [[Acacia lacertensis]]
* [[Acacia lachnophylla]]
* [[Acacia laeta]]
* [[Acacia lamprocarpa]]
* [[Acacia lanceolata]]
* [[Acacia lanei]]
* [[Acacia lanigera]]
* [[Acacia lanuginophylla]]
* [[Acacia laricina]]
* [[Acacia lasiocalyx]]
* [[Acacia latescens]]
* [[Acacia latifolia]]
* [[Acacia latior]]
* [[Acacia latipes]]
* [[Acacia latisepala]]
* [[Acacia latzii]]
* [[Acacia lauta]]
* [[Acacia lazaridis]]
* [[Acacia leeuweniana]]
* [[Acacia legnota]]
* [[Acacia leichhardtii]]
* [[Acacia leiocalyx]]
* [[Acacia leiophylla]]
* [[Acacia lentiginea]]
* [[Acacia leprosa]]
* [[Acacia leptalea]]
* [[Acacia leptocarpa]]
* [[Acacia leptoclada]]
* [[Acacia leptoloba]]
* [[Acacia leptoneura]]
* [[Acacia leptopetala]]
* [[Acacia leptophleba]]
* [[Acacia leptospermoides]]
* [[Acacia leptostachya]]
* [[Acacia leucoclada]]
* [[Acacia leucolobia]]
* [[Acacia levata]]
* [[Acacia ligulata]]
* [[Acacia ligustrina]]
* [[Acacia limbata]]
* [[Acacia linarioides]]
* [[Acacia linearifolia]]
* [[Acacia lineata]]
* [[Acacia lineolata]]
* [[Acacia linifolia]]
* [[Acacia linophylla]]
* [[Acacia lirellata]]
* [[Acacia littorea]]
* [[Acacia lobulata]]
* [[Acacia loderi]]
* [[Acacia longifolia]]
* [[Acacia longifolia var. sophorae]]
* [[Acacia longipedunculata]]
* [[Acacia longiphyllodinea]]
* [[Acacia longispicata]]
* [[Acacia longispinea]]
* [[Acacia longissima]]
* [[Acacia loroloba]]
* [[Acacia loxophylla]]
* [[Acacia lucasii]]
* [[Acacia lullfitziorum]]
* [[Acacia lumholtzii]]
* [[Acacia lunata]]
* [[Acacia lycopodiifolia]]
* [[Acacia lysiphloia]]

* [[Acacia mabellae]]
* [[Acacia macdonnelliensis]]
* [[Acacia mackeyana]]
* [[Acacia macnuttiana]]
* [[Acacia maconochieana]]
* [[Acacia macradenia]]
* [[Acacia macraneura]]
* [[Acacia maidenii]]
* [[Acacia maitlandii]]
* [[Acacia malloclada]]
* [[Acacia mangium]]
* [[Acacia manipularis]]
* [[Acacia maranoensis]]
* [[Acacia mariae]]
* [[Acacia marramamba]]
* [[Acacia masliniana]]
* [[Acacia mathuataensis]]
* [[Acacia matthewii]]
* [[Acacia maxwellii]]
* [[Acacia mearnsii]]
* [[Acacia megalantha]]
* [[Acacia meiantha]]
* [[Acacia meiosperma]]
* [[Acacia meisneri]]
* [[Acacia melanoxylon]]
* [[Acacia melleodora]]
* [[Acacia mellifera]]
* [[Acacia melvillei]]
* [[Acacia menzelii]]
* [[Acacia merinthophora]]
* [[Acacia merrallii]]
* [[Acacia merrickiae]]
* [[Acacia microbotrya]]
* [[Acacia microcalyx]]
* [[Acacia microcarpa]]
* [[Acacia microcybe]]
* [[Acacia microneura]]
* [[Acacia microsperma]]
* [[Acacia midgleyi]]
* [[Acacia mimica]]
* [[Acacia mimula]]
* [[Acacia minutifolia]]
* [[Acacia minutissima]]
* [[Acacia minyura]]
* [[Acacia mitchellii]]
* [[Acacia mitodes]]
* [[Acacia mollifolia]]
* [[Acacia montana]]
* [[Acacia monticola]]
* [[Acacia mooreana]]
* [[Acacia mountfordiae]]
* [[Acacia mucronata]]
* [[Acacia muelleriana]]
* [[Acacia mulganeura]]
* [[Acacia multisiliqua]]
* [[Acacia multispicata]]
* [[Acacia multistipulosa]]
* [[Acacia muriculata]]
* [[Acacia murrayana]]
* [[Acacia mutabilis]]
* [[Acacia myrtifolia]]

* [[Acacia nana]]
* [[Acacia nanodealbata]]
* [[Acacia nanopravissima]]
* [[Acacia nematophylla]]
* [[Acacia neriifolia]]
* [[Acacia nervosa]]
* [[Acacia nesophila]]
* [[Acacia neurocarpa]]
* [[Acacia neurophylla]]
* [[Acacia newmanii]]
* [[Acacia nigripilosa]]
* [[Acacia nilotica]]
* [[Acacia nitidula]]
* [[Acacia nivea]]
* [[Acacia nodiflora]]
* [[Acacia notabilis]]
* [[Acacia nova-anglica]]
* [[Acacia nubica]]
* [[Acacia nuperrima]]
* [[Acacia nyssophylla]]

* [[Acacia obesa]]
* [[Acacia obliquinervia]]
* [[Acacia obovata]]
* [[Acacia obtecta]]
* [[Acacia obtriangularis]]
* [[Acacia obtusata]]
* [[Acacia obtusifolia]]
* [[Acacia octonervia]]
* [[Acacia oerfota]]
* [[Acacia oldfieldii]]
* [[Acacia olgana]]
* [[Acacia oligoneura]]
* [[Acacia olsenii]]
* [[Acacia ommatosperma]]
* [[Acacia oncinocarpa]]
* [[Acacia oncinophylla]]
* [[Acacia ophiolithica]]
* [[Acacia oraria]]
* [[Acacia orbifolia]]
* [[Acacia orites]]
* [[Acacia orthocarpa]]
* [[Acacia orthotricha]]
* [[Acacia orthotropica]]
* [[Acacia oshanesii]]
* [[Acacia oswaldii]]
* [[Acacia oxycedrus]]
* [[Acacia oxycedrus x sophorae]]
* [[Acacia oxyclada]]

* [[Acacia pachyacra]]
* [[Acacia pachycarpa]]
* [[Acacia pachyphylla]]
* [[Acacia pachypoda]]
* [[Acacia palustris]]
* [[Acacia papulosa]]
* [[Acacia papyrocarpa]]
* [[Acacia paradoxa]]
* [[Acacia paraneura]]
* [[Acacia parramattensis]]
* [[Acacia parvipinnula]]
* [[Acacia pataczekii]]
* [[Acacia patagiata]]
* [[Acacia paula]]
* [[Acacia pedina]]
* [[Acacia pedleyi]]
* [[Acacia pellita]]
* [[Acacia pelophila]]
* [[Acacia pendula]]
* [[Acacia penninervis]]
* [[Acacia perangusta]]
* [[Acacia peregrinalis]]
* [[Acacia perpusilla]]
* [[Acacia perryi]]
* [[Acacia petraea]]
* [[Acacia peuce]]
* [[Acacia phacelia]]
* [[Acacia phaeocalyx]]
* [[Acacia pharangites]]
* [[Acacia phasmoides]]
* [[Acacia phlebocarpa]]
* [[Acacia phlebopetala]]
* [[Acacia phlebophylla]]
* [[Acacia pickardii]]
* [[Acacia piligera]]
* [[Acacia pilligaensis]]
* [[Acacia pinguiculosa]]
* [[Acacia pinguifolia]]
* [[Acacia platycarpa]]
* [[Acacia plautella]]
* [[Acacia plectocarpa]]
* [[Acacia podalyriifolia]]
* [[Acacia polifolia]]
* [[Acacia poliochroa]]
* [[Acacia polyacantha]]
* [[Acacia polyadenia]]
* [[Acacia polybotrya]]
* [[Acacia polystachya]]
* [[Acacia porcata]]
* [[Acacia praelongata]]
* [[Acacia praemorsa]]
* [[Acacia praetermissa]]
* [[Acacia prainii]]
* [[Acacia pravifolia]]
* [[Acacia pravissima]]
* [[Acacia prismifolia]]
* [[Acacia pritzeliana]]
* [[Acacia producta]]
* [[Acacia profusa]]
* [[Acacia proiantha]]
* [[Acacia prolata]]
* [[Acacia prominens]]
* [[Acacia provincialis]]
* [[Acacia pruinocarpa]]
* [[Acacia pruinosa]]
* [[Acacia pteraneura]]
* [[Acacia pterocaulon]]
* [[Acacia ptychoclada]]
* [[Acacia ptychophylla]]
* [[Acacia pubescens]]
* [[Acacia pubicosta]]
* [[Acacia pubifolia]]
* [[Acacia pubirhachis]]
* [[Acacia pulviniformis]]
* [[Acacia puncticulata]]
* [[Acacia purpureopetala]]
* [[Acacia pusilla]]
* [[Acacia pustula]]
* [[Acacia pycnantha]]
* [[Acacia pycnocephala]]
* [[Acacia pycnostachya]]
* [[Acacia pygmaea]]
* [[Acacia pyrifolia]]

* [[Acacia quadrilateralis]]
* [[Acacia quadrimarginea]]
* [[Acacia quadrisulcata]]
* [[Acacia quinquenervia]]
* [[Acacia quornensis]]

* [[Acacia racospermoides]]
* [[Acacia ramiflora]]
* [[Acacia ramulosa]]
* [[Acacia recurvata]]
* [[Acacia redolens]]
* [[Acacia rendlei]]
* [[Acacia repanda]]
* [[Acacia repens]]
* [[Acacia resinicostata]]
* [[Acacia resinimarginea]]
* [[Acacia resinistipulea]]
* [[Acacia resinosa]]
* [[Acacia restiacea]]
* [[Acacia retinervis]]
* [[Acacia retinodes]]
* [[Acacia retivenea]]
* [[Acacia retrorsa]]
* [[Acacia rhamphophylla]]
* [[Acacia rhetinocarpa]]
* [[Acacia rhigiophylla]]
* [[Acacia rhodophloia]]
* [[Acacia rhodoxylon]]
* [[Acacia riceana]]
* [[Acacia richardsii]]
* [[Acacia richii]]
* [[Acacia ridleyana]]
* [[Acacia rigens]]
* [[Acacia rigescens]]
* [[Acacia rigida]]
* [[Acacia rigidula]]
* [[Acacia rivalis]]
* [[Acacia robeorum]]
* [[Acacia robiniae]]
* [[Acacia rossei]]
* [[Acacia rostellata]]
* [[Acacia rostellifera]]
* [[Acacia rostriformis]]
* [[Acacia rothii]]
* [[Acacia roycei]]
* [[Acacia rubida]]
* [[Acacia rubricaulis]]
* [[Acacia rubricola]]
* [[Acacia rupicola]]
* [[Acacia ruppii]]
* [[Acacia ryaniana]]

* [[Acacia sabulosa]]
* [[Acacia saliciformis]]
* [[Acacia salicina]]
* [[Acacia saligna]]
* [[Acacia saxatilis]]
* [[Acacia saxicola]]
* [[Acacia scabra]]
* [[Acacia scalena]]
* [[Acacia scalpelliformis]]
* [[Acacia schinoides]]
* [[Acacia sciophanes]]
* [[Acacia scirpifolia]]
* [[Acacia scleroclada]]
* [[Acacia sclerophylla]]
* [[Acacia sclerosperma]]
* [[Acacia scopulorum]]
* [[Acacia seclusa]]
* [[Acacia sedifolia]]
* [[Acacia semiaurea]]
* [[Acacia semibinervia]]
* [[Acacia semicircinalis]]
* [[Acacia semilunata]]
* [[Acacia semirigida]]
* [[Acacia semitrullata]]
* [[Acacia senegal]]
* [[Acacia sericata]]
* [[Acacia sericocarpa]]
* [[Acacia sericoflora]]
* [[Acacia sericophylla]]
* [[Acacia serpentinicola]]
* [[Acacia sertiformis]]
* [[Acacia sessilis]]
* [[Acacia sessilispica]]
* [[Acacia setulifera]]
* [[Acacia shirleyi]]
* [[Acacia shuttleworthii]]
* [[Acacia sibilans]]
* [[Acacia sibina]]
* [[Acacia sibirica]]
* [[Acacia siculiformis]]
* [[Acacia sieberiana]]
* [[Acacia signata]]
* [[Acacia silvestris]]
* [[Acacia simplicifolia]]
* [[Acacia simmonsiana]]
* [[Acacia simsii]]
* [[Acacia simulans]]
* [[Acacia singula]]
* [[Acacia smeringa]]
* [[Acacia solenota]]
* [[Acacia sorophylla]]
* [[Acacia spania]]
* [[Acacia sparsiflora]]
* [[Acacia spathulifolia]]
* [[Acacia speckii]]
* [[Acacia spectabilis]]
* [[Acacia spectra]]
* [[Acacia sphacelata]]
* [[Acacia sphenophylla]]
* [[Acacia spilleriana]]
* [[Acacia spinescens]]
* [[Acacia spinosissima]]
* [[Acacia spirorbis]]
* [[Acacia splendens]]
* [[Acacia spondylophylla]]
* [[Acacia spongolitica]]
* [[Acacia spooneri]]
* [[Acacia sporadica]]
* [[Acacia squamata]]
* [[Acacia stanleyi]]
* [[Acacia startii]]
* [[Acacia steedmanii]]
* [[Acacia stellaticeps]]
* [[Acacia stenophylla]]
* [[Acacia stenoptera]]
* [[Acacia stereophylla]]
* [[Acacia stictophylla]]
* [[Acacia stigmatophylla]]
* [[Acacia stipuligera]]
* [[Acacia stipulosa]]
* [[Acacia storyi]]
* [[Acacia striatifolia]]
* [[Acacia stricta]]
* [[Acacia strongylophylla]]
* [[Acacia suaveolens]]
* [[Acacia subcaerulea]]
* [[Acacia subcontorta]]
* [[Acacia subflexuosa]]
* [[Acacia sublanata]]
* [[Acacia subporosa]]
* [[Acacia subrigida]]
* [[Acacia subsessilis]]
* [[Acacia subternata]]
* [[Acacia subtessarogona]]
* [[Acacia subtiliformis]]
* [[Acacia subtilinervis]]
* [[Acacia subulata]]
* [[Acacia sulcata]]
* [[Acacia sulcaticaulis]]
* [[Acacia symonii]]
* [[Acacia synantha]]
* [[Acacia synchronicia]]
* [[Acacia synoria]]

* [[Acacia tabula]]
* [[Acacia tarculensis]]
* [[Acacia telmica]]
* [[Acacia tenuinervis]]
* [[Acacia tenuior]]
* [[Acacia tenuispica]]
* [[Acacia tenuissima]]
* [[Acacia tephrina]]
* [[Acacia teretifolia]]
* [[Acacia terminalis]]
* [[Acacia tessellata]]
* [[Acacia tetanophylla]]
* [[Acacia tetragonocarpa]]
* [[Acacia tetragonophylla]]
* [[Acacia tetraneura]]
* [[Acacia tetraptera]]
* [[Acacia thoma]]
* [[Acacia thomsonii]]
* [[Acacia tindaleae]]
* [[Acacia tingoorensis]]
* [[Acacia tolmerensis]]
* [[Acacia toondulya]]
* [[Acacia torringtonensis]]
* [[Acacia torticarpa]]
* [[Acacia tortilis]]
* [[Acacia torulosa]]
* [[Acacia trachycarpa]]
* [[Acacia trachyphloia]]
* [[Acacia translucens]]
* [[Acacia tratmaniana]]
* [[Acacia trigonophylla]]
* [[Acacia trinalis]]
* [[Acacia trinervata]]
* [[Acacia trineura]]
* [[Acacia triptera]]
* [[Acacia triptycha]]
* [[Acacia triquetra]]
* [[Acacia tropica]]
* [[Acacia truculenta]]
* [[Acacia trudgeniana]]
* [[Acacia trulliformis]]
* [[Acacia truncata]]
* [[Acacia tuberculata]]
* [[Acacia tumida]]
* [[Acacia tysonii]]

* [[Acacia ulicifolia]]
* [[Acacia ulicina]]
* [[Acacia uliginosa]]
* [[Acacia umbellata]]
* [[Acacia umbraculiformis]]
* [[Acacia uncifera]]
* [[Acacia uncifolia]]
* [[Acacia uncinata]]
* [[Acacia uncinella]]
* [[Acacia undoolyana]]
* [[Acacia undosa]]
* [[Acacia undulifolia]]
* [[Acacia unguicula]]
* [[Acacia unifissilis]]
* [[Acacia urophylla]]

* [[Acacia validinervia]]
* [[Acacia vassalii]]
* [[Acacia venulosa]]
* [[Acacia verniciflua]]
* [[Acacia veronica]]
* [[Acacia verricula]]
* [[Acacia verticillata]]
* [[Acacia vestita]]
* [[Acacia victoriae]]
* [[Acacia vincentii]]
* [[Acacia viscidula]]
* [[Acacia viscifolia]]
* [[Acacia vittata]]
* [[Acacia volubilis]]

* [[Acacia walkeri]]
* [[Acacia wanyu]]
* [[Acacia wardellii]]
* [[Acacia warramaba]]
* [[Acacia wattsiana]]
* [[Acacia webbii]]
* [[Acacia websteri]]
* [[Acacia wetarensis]]
* [[Acacia whibleyana]]
* [[Acacia whitei]]
* [[Acacia wickhamii]]
* [[Acacia wilcoxii]]
* [[Acacia wilhelmiana]]
* [[Acacia willdenowiana]]
* [[Acacia williamsiana]]
* [[Acacia williamsonii]]
* [[Acacia willingii]]
* [[Acacia wilsonii]]
* [[Acacia wiseana]]
* [[Acacia woodmaniorum]]

* [[Acacia xanthina]]
* [[Acacia xanthocarpa]]
* [[Acacia xanthophloea]]
* [[Acacia xerophila]]
* [[Acacia xiphophylla]]

* [[Acacia yirrkallensis]]
* [[Acacia yorkrakinensis]]

* [[Acacia zatrichota]]

* [[Anadenanthera colubrina]]
* [[Anadenanthera excelsa]]
* [[Anadenanthera macrocarpa]]
* [[Anadenanthera peregrina]]
* [[Anthirhea lucida]]
* [[Arundo donax]]
* [[Banisteriopsis caapi]] (Caapi, Ayahuasca)
* [[Brugmansia spp]]
* [[Datura spp.]]
* [[Delosperma acuminatum]]
* [[Delosperma cooperi]]
* [[Delosperma ecklonis]]
* [[Delosperma esterhuyseniae]]
* [[Delosperma harazianum]]
* [[Delosperma hirtum]]
* [[Delosperma klinghardiana]]
* [[Delosperma lydenbergense]]
* [[Delosperma pageanum]]
* [[Delosperma pargamentaceum]]
* [[Delosperma tradescantioides]]
* [[Desmanthus illinoensis]]
* [[Desmanthus leptolobus]]
* [[Desmanthus velutinus]]
* [[Desmodium caudatum]]
* [[Desmodium gangeticum]]
* [[Desmodium gyrans]]
* [[Desmodium pulchellum]]
* [[Desmodium triflorum]]
* [[Diplopterys cabrerana]] (Chaliponga)
* [[Evodia rutaecarpa]]
* [[Justicia pectoralis]]
* [[Lespedeza bicolor]]
* [[Limona acidissima]
* [[Lophophora Williamsii]] (Peyote)
* [[Mimosa hostilis]]
* [[Mimosa ophthalmocentra]]
* [[Mimosa scabrella]
* [[Mimosa verrucosa]]
* [[Mucuna pruriens]]
* [[Osteophloem platyspermum]]
* [[Pandanus utilis]]
* [[Pandanus odoratissima]]
* [[Petalostylis labicheoides]]
* [[Phalaris aquatica]]
* [[Phalaris arundinacea]] (Reed canary grass)
* [[Phalaris brachystachys]]
* [[Phalaris canariensis]]
* [[Phalaris minor]]
* [[Phalaris paradoxa]]
* [[Phalaris stenoptera]]
* [[Phalaris tuberosa]]
* [[Peganum harmala]] (Syrian rue)
* [[Phragmites australis]]
* [[Psychotria viridis]] (Chacruna)
* [[Psychotria carthaginensis]]
* [[Psychotria horizontalis]]
* [[Psychotria marginala]]
* [[Psychotria poeppigiana]]
* [[Psychotria pychotriaefolia]]
* [[Psychotria stenostachya]]
* [[Salvia divinorum]]
* [[Tabernanthe Iboga]] (Iboga)
* [[Testulea gabonensis]]
* [[Trichocereus Pachanoi]]
* [[Trichocereus Peruvianus]]
* [[Vepris ampody]]
* [[Virola calophylla]]
* [[Virola calophylloidea]]
* [[Virola carinata]]
* [[Virola divergens]]
* [[Virola elongata]]
* [[Virola melinonii]]
* [[Virola multinervia]]
* [[Virola pavonis]]
* [[Virola peruviana]]
* [[Virola rufuta]]
* [[Virola sebifera]]
* [[Virola theiodora]]
* [[Virola venosa]]
* [[Zanthoxylum arborescens]]
* [[Zanthoxylum procerum]]

= Fungus =

* [[Psilocybe cubensis]]

= Other =

*

Acacia spp.

2014-05-08T17:13:38Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Relevant links */

Category:Other projects

2014-05-08T17:09:03Z

Cosmic Spore:

='''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=50946 CIP]'''=
[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=50946 CIP] (Cannabis Information Project)
... AKA [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=50946 Cannabinoid & Cannabis Studies, Documentaries & the like] (thread)

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Cannabis.zip Cannabis.zip]
[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/File:Cannabinoid_%26_Cannabis_Research_%26_Studies_%28link%29.pdf Cannabinoid & Cannabis Research & Studies] (link on the WIKI)

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=53863 Indexing Cannabis Threads]

=[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia ID information]=

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia ID information.zip]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33648 Acacia Identification Thread]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Trying to improve Acacia information]

=[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa ID information]=

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa ID information.zip]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=34784 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace]

=Other ID. Information and Links=

[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Containing_Plants WIKI -> DMT Containing Plants]

[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Botanicals WIKI -> Botanicals]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33512 Guide to Researching Psychoactive Plants: Resource List] thread

=[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Climate.zip Climate change.zip]=

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Climate.zip Climate.zip]'''

Climate Change Impacts in the United States''','''
Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change - Climate Change 2013 - The Physical Science Basis''','''
'''and more'''.

Category:Other projects

2014-05-08T17:05:51Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Other Information and Links */

='''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=50946 CIP]'''=
[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=50946 CIP] (Cannabis Information Project)
... AKA [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=50946 Cannabinoid & Cannabis Studies, Documentaries & the like] (thread)

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Cannabis.zip Cannabis.zip]
[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/File:Cannabinoid_%26_Cannabis_Research_%26_Studies_%28link%29.pdf Cannabinoid & Cannabis Research & Studies] (link on the WIKI)

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=53863 Indexing Cannabis Threads]

=[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Climate.zip Climate.zip]=

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Climate.zip Climate.zip]'''

Climate Change Impacts in the United States''','''
Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change - Climate Change 2013 - The Physical Science Basis''','''
'''and more'''.

=[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia ID information]=

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia ID information.zip]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33648 Acacia Identification Thread]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Trying to improve Acacia information]

=[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa ID information]=

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa ID information.zip]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=34784 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace]

=Other Information and Links=

[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Containing_Plants WIKI -> DMT Containing Plants]

[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Botanicals WIKI -> Botanicals]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33512 Guide to Researching Psychoactive Plants: Resource List] thread

Category:Other projects

2014-05-08T17:03:26Z

Cosmic Spore:

='''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=50946 CIP]'''=
[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=50946 CIP] (Cannabis Information Project)
... AKA [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=50946 Cannabinoid & Cannabis Studies, Documentaries & the like] (thread)

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Cannabis.zip Cannabis.zip]
[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/File:Cannabinoid_%26_Cannabis_Research_%26_Studies_%28link%29.pdf Cannabinoid & Cannabis Research & Studies] (link on the WIKI)

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=53863 Indexing Cannabis Threads]

=[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Climate.zip Climate.zip]=

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Climate.zip Climate.zip]'''

Climate Change Impacts in the United States''','''
Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change - Climate Change 2013 - The Physical Science Basis''','''
'''and more'''.

=[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia ID information]=

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia ID information.zip]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33648 Acacia Identification Thread]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Trying to improve Acacia information]

=[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa ID information]=

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa ID information.zip]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=34784 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace]

=Other Information and Links=

[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Containing_Plants WIKI -> DMT Containing Plants]

[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Botanicals WIKI -> Botanicals]

Category:Other projects

2014-05-08T14:33:56Z

Cosmic Spore:

Category:Other projects

2014-05-08T14:32:45Z

Cosmic Spore:

Category:Other projects

2014-05-08T14:23:09Z

Cosmic Spore:

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=50946 CIP]''' (Cannabis Information Project)
... AKA [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=50946 Cannabinoid & Cannabis Studies, Documentaries & the like]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Cannabis.zip Cannabis.zip]
[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/File:Cannabinoid_%26_Cannabis_Research_%26_Studies_%28link%29.pdf Cannabinoid & Cannabis Research & Studies (link)]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=53863 Indexing Cannabis Threads]

FAQ - DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide

2014-05-05T07:46:08Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Links */

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of the 'DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide'<ref>DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide
[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6341]</ref>.}}

== DMT overview ==

=== What is DMT, Where do I learn the basics? ===

DMT is a naturally occuring substance, present in trace amounts in normal human metabolism (and its purpouse is unknown, check question [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Is_it_true_the_pineal_gland_produces_DMT_naturally_and_is_involved_in_dreaming.3F 2.1] , as well as in a variety of plants and animals.

It can be extracted from some of these plants and smoked for some very strong psychedelic/entheogenic effects lasting 10 minutes. It can also be taken orally, but we have an enzyme (MAO) in our stomach that destroys dmt if taken orally, so for taking orally DMT must be acompanied by a substance that inhibits this enzyme (MAOI, or MAO Inhibitor), which is also present in some other plants.

Ayahuasca, a sacred drink used by indigenous people of the Amazon, is an example of a drink made from a dmt-containing plant (Psychotria viridis), together with a MAOI containing plant (Banisteriopsis caapi), that is drank orally for a psychedelic/entheogenic experience lasting around 4 hours.

When smoking, we do not need to use MAOI because we do not have MAOs in our lungs. Nevertheless, some people like to also ingest MAOIs before vaporizing DMT, or vaporizing a MAOI together with the DMT (such as in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ_-_DMT_Frequently_Asked_Questions_and_Troubleshooting_Guide#What_is_changa_.2F_How_to_make_changa_.3F changa]), to make the experience last longer.

For learning more about DMT, this whole webpage is dedicated to it. Here's a few links

==== Links ====

* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dimethyltryptamine Wikipedia DMT Link]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/ The Dmt Nexus Wiki]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ Frequently Asked Questions]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=forum Main Dmt Nexus Forum]

=== Are there different types of DMT? ===

DMT can be in salt form or in freebase form. A salt form means the DMT is attached to an acid molecule. DMT is naturally in salt form in the plants because of plant acids (for example dmt tannate or oxalate due to tannic or oxalic acid being present in some plants). When people extract DMT, they can make it in freebase form to smoke, because DMT in salt form can't be smoked, it has high boiling point and breaks down instead of vaporizing efficiently. Some salt forms like DMT fumarate can even be toxic to smoke due to creation of maleic anhydride during combustion.

Appart from being naturally in brews made of DMT containing plants like ayahuasca, DMT can also be made into salt for, for example DMT fumarate, when people extract it, because DMT fumarate is stable and can be stored for long, and it can be taken orally or intranasally. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods this] for more info. Regarding dosages in different salt forms, one can read [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this] thread. Each salt form of DMT have their own weight depending on the acid molecule weight (for example DMT fumarate's weight is around 76% DMT, 24% fumaric acid), so dosages could be adjusted proportionately to the amount of DMT when ingesting, but since each person is differently sensitive to DMT and since salt form may be a bit more effective to ingest orally, this "salt weight calculation" is not really necessary for DMT, one can just ingest according to [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 these] recommendations, starting low for first time, and adjusting according to own sensitivity and batch the next time.

There are other molecules which have the DMT structure built into them but they are not DMT, they have structural modifications, for example 4-HO-DMT also known as psilocin and 4-PO-DMT, psilocybin, the active compounds in mushrooms, which are different molecules altogether with their own particular effects. Small modifications in molecules can completely change effects. So psilocybin, psilocin, 5-MeO DMT, and 5-HO-DMT (bufotenine), plus others, are all different molecules, they are NOT the same as DMT. Each of them has different effects, pharmacology, etc etc. On the other hand, DMT freebase or DMT in salt form (tannate, acetate, fumarate) are all DMT.

== DMT Chemistry and Body ==

=== Is it true the pineal gland produces DMT naturally and is involved in dreaming and death? What does DMT do in the body? ===

At this point there is no evidence to support the claim that DMT is produced in the pineal or brain. It is a speculation raised by Dr Rick Strassman due to his previous interest in the pineal. So far in humans, the key enzymes necessary for this have [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=5549 not been found present in the human brain], therefore it seem more likely it is produced elsewhere in the body, though some recent research has shown in primates these enzymes are present in pineal gland. In any case nothing is really proven yet so we must avoid making claims before more data comes in.

The supposed connection of DMT and dreams, and the idea that DMT is released when we die, both are speculation with no real evidence to back them up.

It IS proven, though, for decades already, that DMT is produced in the human body and is present at all times in trace amounts, for unknown functions (which could be several functions, see last link below).

==== Links ====

*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18834 Zero proof DMT is made in the brain]
*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=295746#post295746 I dislike the "DMT is responsible for your dreams" theory]
*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18394 Rethinking DMT and the Pineal Gland]
*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18448 The functions of DMT in our body: If DMT would be a neurotransmitter]

=== Is DMT dangerous? ===

Researches have been made showing the relative safety of dmt. It does not cause physical damage, addiction, and any tolerance disappears very quickly. Ayahuasca, the dmt-containing brew from the Amazon, has been studied by multidisciplinary groups in Brazil and other countries and was shown that in a careful context, it presents no negative cognitive/psychiatric/social consequences, even in adolescents.

There is yet little research into vaporized dmt, but there seems to be no sign that it is in any way more dangerous physically than other administration forms. There are no reported deaths from smoking DMT. Smoking it will not lead to a dangerous overdose because the onset is so quick that one can only inhale a certain amount before being gone to ´hyperspace', without being able to smoke more until one is down again.

However:
* People with extreme heart or other conditions for whom strong emotions could be dangerous are contra-indicated, just like a roller coaster would for them.
* It is important to notice that with any psychedelic, it is a very powerful emotional/mental experience, so those with personal or family psychiatric history, unstable emotionally or going through some very difficult moments in life should be extremely careful.
* Also, it is possible that during the experience, one temporarily loses orientation in the consensus reality, so smoking/ingesting next to a cliff, sharp objects, etc, is not a good idea. BE IN A PHYSICALLY SAFE ENVIRONMENT!
* DO NOT use MAOIs (so for example an ayahuasca brew) together with stimulants or SSRI medication

Appart from that, there are psychological issues to be considered. Please read the health and safety section linked below, as well as the scientific articles also linked below.

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety Health And Safety Section]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1441 Scientific Articles on DMT/Ayahuasca/Psychedelics]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4400 Long term effects of smoking DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5843 DMT After-Effects]

=== Is a MAOI diet / Ayahuasca fasting necessary? What kind of dangers are there with medication interaction? ===

Unlike some pharmaceutical MAOI, the Harmalas, alkaloids present in the caapi vine and syrian rue are reversible inhibitors of MAO-A, while Tyramine, the component in some food that could cause problems in big amounts, is eliminated partly by MAO-A and but also partly by the intact MAO-B ([http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 source] ). Also for some pharmacological reason as shown in [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_fig9big.jpg this] diagram, tyramine can still be partly metabolized by MAO-A even during the harmala effects.

In other words, in terms of '''food''' interaction, the danger with reversible MAOI use (in for example ayahuasca or pharmahuasca with harmalas) and food interaction is very reduced. The necessity of the very strict dieting for ayahuasca with extensive list of what one must absolutely not eat is an exaggeration, though it is advised to eat light because extreme amounts of tyramine in some specific foods could theoretically still be a potential problem.

There seem to be no reports of actual life-threatening events with tyramine-containing foods and harmalas. There are even people that purposely ate tyramine-containing foods with no ill effects, but there have also been reports of negative symptoms such as very strong headaches and negative body load when mixing a heavy food consumption before/during/after harmala consumption. Several other variables may also be involved that are unrelated to tyramine and harmala-food interaction (variables such as for example exhaustion from the trip, vasodilation, the body/ayahuasca telling the person to 'eat better' in general, etc). Headaches seem specially common when mixing beer and harmalas.

In any case, it is generally considered common sense to eat light before and after the use of ayahuasca and analogues (and psychedelics in general). Just follow your good sense and you should be fine. To eer on the side of caution, the food to avoid eating (or over-eating) is aged or fermented food specially aged cheese, fermented or smoked meat (fish included) and soy products (though some soy products have also been found to have little tyramine content). Beer should also be avoided as some people have experienced negative interaction between MAOIs and beer. Apart from that, there are no real restrictions, eat lightly and all should be good :)

In relation to how long to wait after the last food before taking ayahuasca, this is very personal. Some like to have empty stomach and be fasting for 6 or more hours, but this is not necessary, and others feel it is even negative to fast for so long, because a too empty stomach might make one very tired during the ceremony, specialy at the end, and can also make purging a specially difficult or uncomfortable experience. Some consider better to have eaten something light (like some fruits or cereal or light sandwhich) a couple of hours before ingesting ayahuasca/analogues.

Remember: With the exception of moclobemide, which stands in the same category as harmalas as far as reversibility and food interaction goes, avoid all other pharmaceutical MAOIs !! Pharmaceutical irreversible MAOIs are VERY dangerous to take without taking strong precautions with food and drug interaction.

'''What IS dangerous is interaction between any MAOIs (including harmalas) and stimulants or some medication''' such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_serotonin_reuptake_inhibitor SSRI] medication such as prozac, or stimulants such as amphetamines or others. If you're taking SSRI's, do not consume MAOIs!! Do not mix stimulants with MAOIs either! Mixing stimulants/SSRIs with MAOIs can cause Serotonin Syndrome which may lead to convulsions or even death. For pharmaceuticals and substances that should NEVER be taken when consuming harmalas, check [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 1] and [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 2]

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29131 Do you experience tyramine interaction with harmalas?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5711 Will smoked Rue cause MAOI?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5398 Think iv cracked it]
* [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=tyramine%20food%20table&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CFMQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fddr.nal.usda.gov%2Fbitstream%2F10113%2F7351%2F1%2FIND43817287.pdf&ei=PpvsT8zAEsXAhAehj-nPBQ&usg=AFQjCNGKR57Q_VTqzOjKxfvKbu0kDTB8Ng&cad=rja Scientific publication on food containing tyramine]
* [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 scientific publication on interaction of MAOIs and tyramine]

== DMT and Society ==

=== Is dmt legal? ===

Posession and sales of DMT in its pure extracted/synthesized form is illegal, schedule 1 in USA and controlled by United Nations and can land you in jail if found in most countries.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/dmt/dmt_law.shtml Erowid DMT Law Vault]

=== '''Are the natural ingredients such as mimosa, and ayahuasca, illegal?''' ===

'''[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=21527 On the Legal Status of DMT Source Plants in the US (with a discussion of the religious use defense)]'''

==== Links ====

* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/ayahuasca/ayahuasca_law.shtml Erowid Ayahuasca Law Vault]
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/plants/mimosa/mimosa_law.shtml Erowid Mimosa Law Vault]

=== Whats the price of dmt / Can I trade dmt? ===

'''[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Attitude_Page#No_discussion_on_selling.2C_buying.2C_sourcing.2C_acquiring.2C_pricing.2C_trading.2C_mentioning_pending_deliveries_or_smuggling_of_drugs No discussion on selling, buying, sourcing, acquiring, pricing, trading, mentioning pending deliveries or smuggling of drugs].'''

'''DO NOT BUY OR SELL DMT!''' We at the nexus are against selling/profiting with this incredible substance. We do not know and we do not want to know how much it costs in the street, we do not want it to be sold on the streets! This is not only disrespectful and shows a lack of understanding about the power of this substance, but its also a liability for the whole community. Dealing/trading DMT can attract the attention of authorities and create a problem not only for yourself but for all others in the community.

'''Talking about DMT sales or trade will result in suspension from the forum!'''

All the reasons why we dont believe in it are listed in the thread below

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3414 Street Value of DMT (and why you should never sell it) ]

== DMT Extraction ==

=== Where to start? ===

There are several ways of extracting DMT, and different ways use different chemicals and take different time. It is recommended that before embarking on extracting, one reads up at least a couple of different teks (link on the bottom) to understand the processes.

The basics of an extraction is:

DMT is present in many plant materials and can be isolated through simple processes. Most commonly used plant is [[Mimosa hostilis]] root bark, but there are other plants with good alkaloid profile such as certain Acacias and certain strains of [[Phalaris spp.]]

DMT in an acidic solution is in salt form and therefore water soluble, while DMT in a basic solution becomes a freebase and not water soluble but rather soluble in non-polar solvents (like limonene, naphtha, xylene, etc). This works similarly to most other alkaloids, with a few exceptions, for example harmalas freebase dont dissolve in the solvents mentioned above, but when you add a base to a solution containing harmalas, they just precipitate and you can filter them.

Back to DMT, non-polar solvents separate from water like oil, it stays as a layer on top. By playing with the pH (adding an acid or a base) you make the dmt move from one place to the other while most of other impurities dont, and then you separate the layers by pippeting/separatory funnel/decanting, and then retrieve the dmt from the non-polar solvent by evaporating it or freeze-precipitating (putting it in a closed container in the freezer, and as the temperature goes down the solubility of dmt in the solvent diminishes, so after some hours dmt precipitates and can be retrieved). There are differences depending on the process of extraction you use (for example limonene can't be evaporated and neither freeze precipitated, it's usually salted, as described in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB], but that is, in a very general way, how it works.

There are some new developed teks for extracting dmt with food-safe materials and/or no petro-chemical solvents, such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] , [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Nontoxic_Approach_to_Spice_Extraction Amor Fati's approach], or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek Q21Q21's extraction tek]. The biggest advantage is, as said, the use of relatively non-toxic material and no petrochemicals but instead solvents such as limonene, which is basically pure orange oil. The disadvantage is that to retrieve the dmt from limonene, you cannot evaporate it (as limonene doesnt evaporate cleanly, it leaves gooey residues), and freeze precipitation also doesnt work (as even in freeze temperatures, dmt is still too soluble in it so it doesnt precipitate), so there are 2 extra steps, which are to 'salt out' the limonene by mixing it with an acidic solution, evaporating that solution and then freebasing the resulting product if one wants to smoke it (or just keeping the salt for storage or oral consumption), as explained in the teks mentioned above. These steps are just as easy as any other step done in the earlier steps of the extraction but the fact that its two extra steps means some extra time and work which some people might not want.

There are also the standard STB (straight-to-base) teks that have been used a lot before the food-safe/limo teks, the two most common being [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Noman%27s_tek Noman's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Lazyman%27s_tek Lazyman Tek]. The mimosa (or whatever plant material extracted) is put straight in a basic solution from the beginning, with no acid-adding step, and hence the name. The advantage of STBs generally being that they need less steps, maybe simpler for beginners, and can usually be quicker, and the main disadvantage being the amount of lye/caustic soda they require (lye being dangerous if it spills because it causes serious chemical burns and could make one blind, though if done correctly it will not be on your final product. Also disadvantage of using much lye is it is watched in many places due to being used in meth production, so it might be suspicious to buy it, or even impossible to find, specially in some specific places of USA). Another possible disadvantage of STB teks is some people claim the final product is not as clean, its more yellow. Yellow dmt isnt necessarily a problem, though, some people even prefer it. Also, one can easily do a recrystalization (look below in the FAQ for explanation) which will effectively clean up the final product quickly and with very little solvent needed.

Then there are the A/B extractions (acid/base), such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Vovin%27s_tek Vovin's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Marsofold%27s_tek Marsofold's tek]. As the name suggests, the plant material is first simmered/boiled in acid 3x, filtered and later the base is added. The advantage being that when one is adding the base and mixing the solvent, the solids were already removed after the acid step, making it easier to mix the solvent, and easier to discard everything later. Also the acid step allows one to do a [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Defat_process Defat], though usually that is considered a wasteful way of cleaning up because it needs a lot of solvent for removing a bit of fats, which can be accomplished more efficiently with a recrystallization on the final product. The disadvantage of an A/B is that it takes longer because of the initial acid step, and if one isnt thorough enough in this acid step one will lose a lot of actives when discarding the solids before moving on to the Base step.

==== Links ====

* [[:Category:Extraction_Tek|Extraction Teks]]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1085 DMT Extraction Overview]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=318336#post318336 Art of liquid-liquid extraction - The basics]

=== What is the best tek? ===

There is no "best" tek. All teks featured in the Nexus Wiki should result in similar final product purity and yields, if correctly performed. Each tek has it's own characteristics regarding chemicals used, how long it takes, how thorough it's explained, if it includes optional clean up steps or not, etc. That is why, before deciding on one tek, it's important to read all (or at least some of them), also the "where to start" question above and the extraction overview linked there. That way you will have a better understanding of the processes instead of just blindly following a tek, which means you'll probably be more succesful with whichever tek you decide to use in the end.

=== Is my solvent/chemical OK to use? ===

Before using any solvent, one must make sure it is a clean evaporating solvent with no toxic/residual additives (or for other non-volatile chemicals used, make sure it has no toxic/unwanted additives). Always:

* Read the ingredients on the solvent's or chemical's label. Make sure it is pure with nothing appart from the desired chemical (for example: Naphtha/Aliphatic hydrocarbons)
* Google "solventbrand solvent/chemical msds", searching the brand of the solvent you have access to, to see if it has an msds, which usually contains more in depth information on what the product contains. For example "merck acetone msds". Or alternatively:
* Check the webpage linked in [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=165091#post165091 this thread] and see if your solvent and its contents is featured there
* VERY IMPORTANT: Always do an evaporating test before using a solvent for the first time: Add a quantity of the solvent to a glass/pyrex/plate (do NOT use a cd) and let it evaporate. If it leaves residues of any kind, dont use it. If it evaporates cleanly, chances are its ok to use.
* Check [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=14772 this] thread on whether your chem is ok to use or where to get the right chems.

=== Is this material or container ok to use with my chemicals? ===

The keyword to search is "Chemical compatibility" or "Chemical Resistance", plus the material and solvent/chemical you are looking for. Below are some good links to help you already find the information you want:

==== Link ====

* [http://www.nalgenelabware.com/techdata/chemical/index.asp Chemical Compatibility Search]
* [http://www.coleparmer.com/techinfo/chemcomp.asp Chemical compatibility database 2]
* [http://www.greenterpene.com/GreenTerpene_Product_Compatibility_s/48.htm Limonene compatibility chart]

=== Is plastic OK to use for my extraction? ===

In short, better not. If you are going to use anyways (NOT recommended), be sure to check what kind of plastic it is, and that its compatible with the chemicals used, as in the links of the previous question. But again, better not use plastic and only use glass, read links below for explanations why:

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=26324 Warning to those using plastic containers]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=340124#post340124 Using plastic for extractions]

=== What are the different bases one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired base.

* For [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH
* For [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH, Potassium Hydroxide/KOH
* For [[:Category:Dry_Technique|Dry tek]]: Calcium Hydroxide

=== What are the different acids one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired acid.

Plenty of different kinds of acid will work, but generally people preffer the first one on the following list:
* Vinegar (acetic acid)
* Lemon Juice (citric acid)
* Phosphoric Acid
* Hydrochloric Acid/HCl/Muriatic Acid.

NOTE: Sulfuric acid is not very well suited towards this extraction, as it reacts with lye to form sodium sulfate which is very poorly water-soluble. This may result in a generous white precipitate.

Reaction:

2NaOH + H2SO4 => Na2SO4 + 2H2O

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1556 Acids]

=== How can I convert sodium bicarbonate into sodium carbonate ===

==== Link ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Conversion_of_Sodium_Bicarbonate_into_Sodium_Carbonate Sodium bicarb -> carb conversion wiki]

=== How long each acid cook? ===

30 min - 2 hours cooks in a crockpot on low-medium (or just low fire on the stove). Some people avoid boiling and only simmer, but it appears DMT salts are very stable even at boil temperatures, so there doesnt seem to be diminishing yields when boiling. Also, it's important to stir once in a while during the acid cook.

=== How many acid cooks? ===

General consensus talks about 3 runs, 2 being minimum and 5 being over-careful.

=== Can I make one long cook instead of 3 shorter ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== Which ratio of MHRB:Lye:Water is the best? ===

For STBs, 1g MHRB:1g Lye:15ml Water is generally accepted as a good ratio. People have had success with significantly less water, but 15ml per g bark is a recommended amount because less than that might make the whole mixture too thick and it can make the separation of the solvent more difficult. Also, one actually needs much less lye but this amount of lye helps prevent emulsions forming as well helps break down the plant material so that dmt is more exposed to the water.

Alternatively, one can just add enough lye for the solution to turn completely black, and go ahead and extract. If emulsions form, add more lye. One does not need to worry about over-basifying, there's no such thing. Excess lye will stay behind in the water layer once you separate the solvent in any case.

=== Can I scale down/up the amounts stated in a tek if I want to extract different amounts of mimosa? ===

Yes, just scale the quantities proportionally according to your situation

=== Can I make one big pull instead of few smaller ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be significantly smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

==== Links ====

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== How big should the pulls be / How much to pre-evaporate before freezing? ===

100ml per pull per 200g bark (or a 2:1 ratio of bark:naphtha) is a sensible recomendation. More wont hurt but it will waste solvent as you will have to evaporate much afterwards. Less solvent per pull is even better, as long as you repeat more pulls to compensate. Sometimes people use more solvent than this recommended amount, like when for example if using this ratio in one's container the layers are too thin and it is hard to separate the solvent (though there are [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#How_to_pull_.2F_get_the_solvent_off_from_the_mix.3F tricks for better separation]). If the plan is to freeze precipitate and one uses more naphtha than the recommended amount, it is recommended to pre-evaporate the naphtha before freezing.

The amount that one should pre-evaporate depends of course on how much solvent used. The idea about pre-evap is that the solvent should be as saturated as possible with dmt so that most or all of it precipitates when put in the freezer. If its not saturated enough, then not much (or not at all) will precipitate. So if one used more than 3:1 ratio of bark:solvent, then pre-evaporate enough to reach the equivalent of it (so if one used, lets say, 100ml per 100g bark, pre evaporating till a third of original volume is recommended). [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=150095#post150095 Here's] an attempt to explain why not having it saturated enough may result in no or low yield

Later pulls will most likely be less saturated with dmt than first pulls, so for the later pulls (like lets say the 4th and 5th), it would be logical to pre-evaporate even more than the first pulls. In the example given above, instead of evaporating until a third of original volume, maybe one could evaporate until there is only a quarter or a fifth of original volume.

Some people gauge the amount of pre-evaporation by doing it until the solvent starts getting cloudy.

In any case, remember to re-use the naphtha after retrieving the crystals from precipitation, and/or evaporating it all the way down to see if there are any actives that remained in the naphtha after the freeze precipitation

If one is extracting a different plant or using a different solvent, then the ratio recommendation can change. Though in extractions that one salts out the solvent (like for example in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] and other limonene-based extractions), one can (and even should) use significantly more solvent, because all alkaloids will anyways be retrieved with the salting step.

=== The layers wont separate, what to do? ===

Possible fixes:
# Dont shake next time, if you did so! Instead, Stir/roll/turn upside down slowly, several times.
# Add more basic water/lye to the mix (either mix is not basic enough or too much plant matter for too little water)
# Make a warm water bath with the whole container (remember no fire sources near solvents, and leave top slightly open for preventing building up of pressure)
# Tapping on the side of the container/vibration (like sitting on top of washing mashine)
# Adding plenty of no-additives non-iodized salt (will make the water more polar and therefore chemically help in the separation)

====Links====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5866 Naphtha won' seperate?]

=== My Solvent is Brown/Dark, what to do ? ===

It happens for some people that after mixing the solvent with the mimosa solution, the naphtha picks up a lot of color and when the layers are separated, there is no emulsion but the naphtha is very dark, brown/burgundy. The exact reasons for this are still unknown, but it seems to happen mostly with STB extractions, powdered bark and heated pulls. It may be that there are microscopic suspended particles of the mimosa/black liquid which for some reason refuse to settle, but nobody yet knows for sure.

Considering this is not an emulsion issue (if so, it can be solved as stated [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#The_layers_wont_separate.2C_what_to_do.3F here]), this issue can be solved by:

1- Wait a few hours and see if the color settles and the solvent layer gets clearer.

2- Separate the pull as you would normally, and do a sodium carbonate wash (explanation also here in the FAQ). If the wash isnt sufficient to get the dark away, then :

3- Do a 'mini A/B' (mixing the separated dark solvent with vinegar 3x, separating the vinegar and discarding the solvent. Then basify the vinegar by adding lye, and pull with fresh solvent)

=== How to pull / get the solvent off from the mix? ===

* [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Each person finds his own way. One of the practical ways is to first, with HDPE or glass pipette/turkey baster/glass syringe, crudely separate the solvent and maybe a bit of the mimosa mix into a tall thin container. Then, with another pipette/glass syringe (or same one, washed), separate the solvent (it will be easier due to being thiner container, so solvent layer will be thicker than before) to the final container for evap or freeze precip. On this second separation, only pull out what you are sure you can do accurately, and the last bit throw back into the main container. Often people complain that the turkey baster wont hold the solvent well and will start releasing liquid as soon as you stop pulling. A [http://www.plastyshack.com/images/glass_syringe.jpg glass syringe] or pipette will work better, you can find them sold in lab/chem/medical supply stores or online in a variety of shops.

* [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Same as above, or also using a separatory funnel.

=== Should I wash my spice? ===

Washing spice has as a main function to eliminate any possible lye or other polar impurities (like droplets of the mimosa basic mix) from the final product, which might make the smoke harsher. Nevertheless, unless one was sloppy and some of the basic mimosa liquid came through to the solvent when separating, there should be nothing or very small amounts of it in your final product.

In any case if one feels better making sure the spice is cleaner (because we all know how important our mental state is in these experiences, even if its clean but if you're worried it might make the experience worse), or if one's spice is unusually harsh, then proceed to a sodium carbonate wash (DO NOT WASH WITH AMMONIA! Many people report losing yield with ammonia wash )

# Have your product still in the solvent, before evaporation/precipitation. If you have already in crystal form, redissolve in a naphtha/heptane/hexane.
# Add anywhere in between a pinch to 5 grams of sodium carbonate (yes, doesnt matter... All that is necessary is for it to be a basic solution) to 100ml clean water.
# Add your spice-containing solvent and the sodium carbonate solution together in a container. Mix/shake/whatever (emulsions will not form).
# Separate the solvent from the sodium carbonate solution using pippette/turkey baster/syphon/separatory funnel. One can repeat steps 2-4 if desired, but not strictly necessary
# Freeze precipitate or evaporate to retrieve your DMT

Remember that regardless of washing, its still very important to make sure there are no solvent traces in your spice, which can be done with thorough air drying, or redissolving your dmt in a non-toxic (or less toxic) solvent like ethanol, or pure IPA/Acetone, and evapping that again

=== No precipitation or low yield? ===

# Stir/mix and let separate the layers many times over a longer period of time before pulling the solvent out of the mix, dont just let it stand.
# Evap till theres only a quarter of the naphtha left and repeat freeze precip. If this doesnt help:
# Add more lye/base in the basic solution and try again, with small warm, thoroughly mixed pulls
# If its evapped and it seems like small amount of goo, it may actually be more than it seems because goo is heavier crystals. Recrystallize goo as FAQ instructions or infuse some herbs and weigh herbs before and after infusing to know exact yield.

Other possibilities:
* Bad mimosa/plant material
* Not the right solvent (if solvent has aromatics like xylene mixed in, it wont freeze precipitate, and will evap into a gooey product, mix of dmt and other plant impurities)

=== Melting/dissapearing crystals after freeze precipitation / Whats the best way to retrieve crystals after freezing? ===

This usually happens because of remaining solvent residues warming up and redissolving the crystals.

A trick to work around that is to freeze precipitate for a day or so (if you already have the melted crystals, then redissolve them in small amounts of warm naphtha and back into the freezer), and after crystals have precipitated, take it out of the freezer, pour the naphtha off (through coffee filter just in case any crystals are not stuck to the container), close the container and put it upside down in the freezer for some more hours. This way, any remaining naphtha trapped inside the crystals will drop off to the lid of the container on the bottom.

So after those few hours, take out out of the freezer, opening the lid still upside down so the naphtha drops off, and then you can scrape the drier crystals, put them on top of a coffee filter or on a plate/petri dish to finish air drying, and voilá.

The container used for precipitation is ideally something with a lid that closes well, like a mason jar, and that the edges and walls are straight so you can scrape it off more easily. Scrape as much as you can of the dmt, and whatever is left inside, leave it and reuse the container for the next precipitation, or if its the last precipitation of the extraction, you can use some alcohol (or even naphtha, if its clean evapping naphtha) to pick the last bits up and evaporate in a dish or easy to scrape flat-bottom wide container.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=2290 DMT crystals melting]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=72767#post72767 Question about freeze precipitation times]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3519 Yellow goo. Won't crystallize]

=== Only getting goo with Acacia extraction ===

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=39030 Getting crystals with Acacia confusa]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=440164 Enough GOO questions...]

=== How to safely heat a solvent ? ===

With the solvent safely stored far away, boil some water with any method you want. Once water is boiled, turn off heat source, get the solvent, put it in a glass and submerge the bottom of the glass on a pot containing your recently boiled water. In some seconds/minutes your solvent should be warm and you can use it for recrystallizing or pulling. NEVER warm up solvents directly with a heat source, specially no gas/open fire but even do not use electrical equipment unless it's a safe laboratory hotplate made for such purposes that will guarantee not to create sparks.

=== How does one recrystallize? ===

1- Boil some water. Turn off the fire.

2- Add your impure spice to a shotglass (weigh it before to know the amount).

3- Add around 20-30ml of naphtha/heptane/hexane per gram of impure spice to the shotglass.

4- submerge the bottom of the glass in the water. Leave it standing and/or stir it around a little bit. Most of the spice should redissolve in a few minutes, but probably a layer of goo will stay on the bottom.

5-Decant or pippette your naphtha away from the goo, put this naphtha in a clean container, close it, and into the freezer overnight for freeze precipitation. Alternatively, instead of freezing, if one wants to grow large crystals, put in a container with the lid semi-closed and/or in a place with very little air circulation, so that the naphtha evaporates very slowly. The slower the evap, the larger the crystal growth.

Its possible small amount of spice is still in the goo, so you can add another 5 or 10ml to the shotglass with the goo to pick up the last bits of dmt. This second pull will be more impure as it will pick some oils up, so freeze precipitate it separately. The goo can then be discarded

If one doesnt have a scale or for some reason cant weigh the spice, warm up a quantity of naphtha in a shotglass without the dmt and slowly add small quantities of the warm naphtha to the container containing dmt while stiring, until most dmt dissolved but a bottom layer of goo remains. Then follow step 5.
http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Can_I_make_one_long_cook_instead_of_3_shorter_ones.3F

==== Links ====

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=10545#post10545 Glass Shard Re-Crystallization Pictorial]

=== How many times can I reuse my solvent? ===

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=335995#post335995 On reusing non polar solvents]

=== What to do with the waste? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3072 What to do with the waste]

=== How Can I Extract DMT From Phalaris? ===

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phalaris_%28grass%29 Phalaris] is a genus of grasses with very variable alkaloid content, which means it's very hard or impossible to really say if a given Phalaris will have a good alkaloid content in terms of what alkaloids are present and in what amounts. Some Phalaris have very little to no DMT (or 5-MeO-DMT or Beta-Carbolines), and yet have plenty of potentially toxic alkaloids such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gramine gramine], while others have good amounts of wanted tryptamines and low gramine content. There are also tryptamines and beta-carbolines in Phalaris which have unknown activity and safety profile such as 5-MeO-NMT and others. This variability is especially the case with wild Phalaris or those grown from seeds so, for a more reliable alkaloid content, the clones of known strains such as AQ1, Big Medicine (for DMT) and Turkey Red (for 5-MeO-DMT) are probably a better bet.

'''Even though some people have reported some variable success, we do NOT recommend people to ingest a crude brew made with Phalaris grass due to the unknown amounts of possible toxic alkaloids. If using Phalaris, extract it first as mentioned below'''

If growing Phalaris yourself, [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/images/8/8a/Festiandsamorini.pdf this]publication goes over all the factors of growth that affect the alkaloid content. Please check it out. Here's some selected quotes:

* "The highest concentration (of alkaloids) is in the upper third part of the seedling leaf."
* "The total alkaloid concentration decreases with plant maturity"
* "Total alkaloids are more concentrated in the first regrowth, after the cutting or grazing, than in the first growth just after sowing, decreasing then in the following regrowths"
* "The availability of soil nitrogen increases the alkaloids concentration"
* "In soil, but not in nutrient solution cultivations, the concentration of indole alkaloids (...) increase is greater in plants supplied with ammonium nitrogen compared to the nitric source"
* "Samples of P. arundinacea growing with 20% of the full sunlight can contain an amount of DMT about twice compared to control; 5-MeO-DMT may increase up to a factor of 25"
* "DMT seems to show a maximum in the first hours of the morning, at least in shaded plants, whereas 5-MeODMT reaches a concentration peak in late morning"

Regarding the extraction itself, the plant should be extracted as soon as possible after harvesting since plant enzyme activity can break down alkaloids, even if drying the plant. If plant is not extracted immediately, it should be stored in an alcoholic solution in cold and dark. For extraction, a standard A/B could potentially work well, boiling plant material 3x in acidic water (pH anywhere from 1-6 should work), filtering, reducing to small manageable amount by low boil or simmering, and then basing with NaOH and pulling with solvent. Alternatively, a dry tek (check the nexus extraction teks wiki for more info) with calcium hydroxide or sodium carbonate could work but there haven't been enough tests to say for sure.

Regarding what solvents to use, hexane/heptane or equivalent solvents such as naphtha should work well as gramine is very poorly soluble in it, but if using naphtha make sure that it doesn't contain xylene or aromatics mixed in. Some people report specially low yields with naphtha and suggest cooking oil or room temperature limonene instead (check hippie salad oil tek link below) Cold/room temperature limonene also seems to work to separate tryptamines from gramine but more work needs to be done to make sure this separation is good enough. Check the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] for the most up-to-date info, since solubility tests on gramine are being done right now. If using naphtha or similar hydrocarbons, doing a recrystallization is a good idea to help removing other unwanted alkaloids that may have come across. Using less selective solvents like DCM, xylene, toluene or others (or acetone or alcohols in a dry tek) would pull the potentially toxic unwanted alkaloids, so its not recommended to use those, unless you do a clean up at the end

If you extract from Phalaris, we would be very thankful if you document the process (notes and/or pictures) and post so that we all can learn about the results, whether they are good or not. Please try smoking/ingesting only a very small amount at first if you do. Ideally, purchase colorimetric reagents such as marquis or ehrlich to help identifying the final product if it contains the wanted alkaloids (more info in the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] )

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=44863 Hippie salad oil tek v 2]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=16810&p=7 Phalaris way of the future thread]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=28869 PDF on processing phalaris]

=== Can I use another solvent like xylene after having pulled with naphtha? ===

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359465#post359465 Can SWIM Use Dif Solvents To Extract Different Ranges of Spice?]

== DMT Usage/Methods of administration ==

=== Is my spice ok to smoke? ===

Often people ask in the forum if their spice is ok to smoke, followed by a picture or description of the dmt's appearance. Nevertheless, there are several other variables which simple color does not tell, and which are essential to decide whether one shoud or not smoke it. Please check link below for detailed information:

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=11715 IMPORTANT: spice color purity fallacy AKA is your dmt ok to smoke ? ]

=== How to brew ayahuasca or analogues (mimosa hostilis / syrian rue)? ===

The standard way of brewing is to first of all have the material powdered/grinded or pounded as fine as possible. Then
* 1- boil on low fire (or simmer) the plant material for around three hours (some people do even longer but not necessary unless material is too coarsely shredded.. Also energetic/ecological costs become higher). Use mineral or distilled water ideally, some tap water can have too high pH and diminish yields/potency. Use enough water to cover the plant material.
* 2- filter/strain the brew to separate the liquids and solids, store the liquid separately,
* 3- add fresh water to the solids and boil everything again. Do this for a total of 3 or 4 times,
* 4- put the liquid from the 3 or 4x boils together, keep filtered/decanted solids separately for stp 6,
* 5- reduce the liquid on low fire/simmer to a manageable ammount, like for example 70ml per dose (dosages/amounts of each plant in [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this thread]

OPTIONAL:
* 6- If you want to be very thorough and get all the alkaloids out, you can now soak the plant material in vinegar for a day, then freeze and thaw it, then boil it for another hour or two. This should have a significant amount of alkaloids, which can either be extracted by basing and filtering like the Easy Caapi Extraction Tek, and the alkaloids added to the main brew (or consumed separately in some other occasion), or you could also consume this orally directly but due to the vinegar it will taste very bad, so it's better to at least base it with sodium carbonate slowly until it stops bubbling and/or reaches a pH of around 6, and then it will taste better.

The MAOI containing plant (banisteriopsis caapi vine or syrian rue) can be boiled together with the DMT containing plant (psychotria viridis or mimosa hostilis, or just add some extracted dmt in appropriate dosage to the caapi/rue brew), but specially if its the first time with a particular plant batch, its recommended to brew separately the two, and first find out the potency of the plant by drinking first a small amount.

An acid can be added to the brew (such as a dash of lemon or vinegar), but this is not strictly necessary (and neither the traditional indigenous way), specially if your plant is finely powdered, because alkaloids in the plant are naturally in water-soluble form. Though acid can increase the potency of the brew (specially for non-powdered plant material), it will also make it taste worse. To get the best out of all the worlds, its recommended to do step 6, so you have a better tasting brew without acid, but you still get any remaining alkaloids at the end in the final acid soak.

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8972 all about aya <3 ]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=51 Ayahuasca subforum]
* [[Ayahuasca using Syrian Rue & Acacia confusa]]

=== Whats the best smoking method? ===

The [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] gives some tips not only on vaporizing methods but other tips, check it out.

Different people preffer different methods. FORGET THE LIGHTBULB METHOD as it only works for a small percentage of people, most report problems.

-
==== '''Vaporgenie''' ====

A big number of people in the Nexus claim the vaporgenie to be the best vaporizing method by far! The vaporgenie is claimed to be significantly more effective as well as having a much smoother vapor than other smoking methods so if one is having trouble with harsh smoke or low effects, try the vaporgenie out. The Glass VaporGenie is recommended but otherwise the classic one will work perfectly fine.

The first thing if you're vaporizing pure DMT, is to get a [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=42867 ceramic disc] or a volcano liquid pad and cut it up to fit the vaporgenie, otherwise the DMT will melt through the screens, even if it's multiple screens. Check the vaporgenie thread linked below for more details

Begin with the flame a few cms above the top and adjust as you go. With empty lungs, start inhaling slowly and steady. The idea is to inhale a dense vapour, but not too dense so that you start coughing. Its better to begin the inhaling with a not so dense smoke, and then make it denser towards the end. Keep the vapor in the lungs for as long as possible, at least 10 seconds. If you coughed or exhaled before this or couldnt inhale with all the lungs, try keeping the flame further away or adjusting the speed of inhaling so that its a bit less dense.

Usually it takes anywhere between 1-3 hits, or anywhere between 25-50mg for a full breakthrough, if you got your technique right. A torch lighter is recommended, but a normal lighter will also work fine.

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=39961#post39961 VG VaporGenie: How to use, where to get, advantages, etc]

- If you cant or dont want to afford a vaporgenie, a good possibility is to make your own vaporization tool like:

===='''amorfati's Inspirator MKII'''====

[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8985 Link to how to build/use the Inspirator mKII]

For a vaporization to be really effective, the DMT should be heated by convection (hot air), not conduction (hot glass/pipe/material), so vaporgenie and inspirator are recommended. If you dont want to use these methods, there are other possibilities which are less effective and risk burning DMT instead of just vaporizing, but it does work decently enough for many people:

===='''- Bong/leaf bed/enhanced leaf'''====

One method also considered successful by some is in a water bong (or plain bong), with a couple of metal screens, a thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on the bottom, then the dmt in the middle, and then another thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on top.
It is essential to go very easy on the fire, because too much heat will degrade DMT. Keep the lighter as far away as possible so that it still vaporizes but doesnt over-heat your DMT
50mg seems to be a good dose if one wants to really go inside the dmt dimension. Inhale slowly and deeply, holding in the lungs as much as possible (at least a few seconds), exhaling, and then taking a second, third one if possible, and even fourth one if one still can. Even if after the first there are already some effects, if one really wants to breakthrough, gotta keep going as much as one can.

Specifically for enhanced leaf check link below

====''' The Machine'''====

Check links below

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=39961#post39961 VG VaporGenie: How to use, where to get, advantages, etc]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6014 Helps and tips for smoking spice]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=280594 My version of the "Machine" - How to make it in <15 minutes]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6131 Ban the Bulb - Modify the Machine]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to enhanced leaf changa]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5633 Thoughts on using a VaporGenie]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6317 Troubles with The Machine]

=== I dont get any effects/light buzz only, what to do? ===

99% of the times, when people do not get effects, they are having a bad vaporization method, most likely burning the sspice. Try one of the methods above, and considering it is dmt and one smokes it right, it should work. Other possibility is that one has a very impure product with too much plant oils and so on. One can perform one or more recrystalizations to get a purer product that is easier to weight accurately and vaporize, and then try methods above.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=86732#post86732 Trouble Breaking Through???]

=== Fear going into a trip ===

If you're afraid of dark things coming from inside of you and are not willing to face them, you should not consume any psychedelics at all...

If you're afraid but willing to face them, then that's another thing.

And whether it's changa, pharma, or aya or vaporized DMT, it doesn't matter much, those dark things can come out with one or the other.

A low dosage may help, yes, and so can a proper set and setting, but this is no guarantee you won't be facing what you fear the most. It can, and most likely will happen at some point, whether now or after a certain number of experiences. Whenever we take psychedelics, it's as if we sign a contract saying we accept all those possibilities. So think well before signing, and if you do sign, make sure to get all the preparations right before the time come, take it in a proper context and to humbly accept whatever may come, take responsibility for it, and learn from it.

==== Link ====

*[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=470491#post470491 Suddenly concerned]

=== Denied breakthrough / Dark DMT trips / Not good experiences anymore ? ===

It happens with several people that they feel they aren't getting good experiences anymore, that the trips are consistently of dark motifs, negative feelings, or that the breakthrough is denied, regardless of dosage. There isn't a ready answer for why this happens, but it seems a few factors may be related to it. In many cases, this happens when people are having a regular or excessive DMT use, or when they haven't been dedicating enough to their daily lives, to [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration integration] of the experiences. Also, it may have in some cases to do with the intentions one sets before vaporizing the DMT, and with how one's mind state and the context in general is.

So a few tips on how to deal with this issue:

1- Take a break! The DMT hyperspace will always be there, there is no rush to go right now! Stop your DMT usage (and maybe drug usage altogether), dedicate to daily life, live a balanced healthy life, eat well, exercise, study, work. Do not obsess about DMT, try to only come back once you feel you have really made enough effort in improving your daily life. At least a few months break is recommended.

2- If and once you do decide to try it again, make sure it is a good place and time for it. Take care with using in the best set and setting possible (look further down the FAQ for recommended setting).

3- Do not smoke it impulsively. Meditate or spend a few minutes in silence, concentrating, breathing deeply and slowly.

4- Set your intentions straight. Question yourself why you are doing this. Try to have the best intentions and reasons as possible.

5- Use a good smoking method such as the vaporgenie or others as recommended above.

6- If it still doesnt work out for you, take an even longer break (many months/years), and/or stop it altogether. Realize that maybe DMT is just not for you. Its not a problem to admit one's relationship with a substance is not working, in fact, it shows you're being humble and conscious.

==== Link ====

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration Health and Safety section: Integration]
* [http://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=169680#post169680 what happened to the bright side?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=13515 Vaporized DMT not having an effect in those who it has worked for previously]

=== What are the dosages for ... ? ===

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 Dosages and different forms of ingestion]

=== What is the best setting/context to consume spice? ===

Check [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] for some tips on setting, preparation and also integration

* A comfortable quiet place is generally recommended. If there are friends around they should be requested to remain quiet while someone is embarking on this experience and only start speaking once the explorer talks himself and allows others. Possibility of telefone ringing or street noises or other interruptions is definitely NOT recommended.
* The presence of music or not depends a lot on personal taste. Some prefer full silence to 'concentrate' more deeply and mention that any stimulus keeps them too grounded in usual reality, while others can have very deep interconnected experiences with certain music of their own preference (often being some kind of chill out/ambient/ethno ).
* Many people preffer full darkness or indirect lighting, but sunset or sunrise in a nice nature place (if safe) can also be marvelous.
* Obviously '''DO NOT''' have sharp objects around, smoke next to cliffs, driving etc...
* It is very rare, but it may happen that one feels nauseated and/or vomits, so specially first times or those doing alone, its also recommended to have a bucket nearby, and to sit comfortably, resting the back against something soft in a way that you wont slip or fall, such as an armchair, bed with backrest/pillows or comfortable sofa.
* While we are not aware of any deaths, it would be irresponsible to discount the possibility that blocking your airway while deep in hyperspace could prove fatal, so be in a position/place where you are safe even if not conscious of the surroundings. During traditional ayahuasca ceremonies participants sit on the floor or in a comfortable chair. We recommend sitting upright (slightly reclined for stability) comfortably because the launch is far more immediate and surprising with vaporised DMT. Think of it as your pilot seat- you wouldn't fly a plane any other way!
* If you do not have a sitter to take the pipe from you, be sure that you have a safe and easy place very near to put it down when you feel hyperspace approaching. You will not be inclined to move your hand very far, so we would recommend a fireproof shelf of sorts less than a foot away. Just smoking cigarettes in bed kills many people every year, and obviously the same dangers are relevent with DMT. We have heard one report of a member who returned from an unenjoyable trip to find that she had dropped the pipe onto her leg, resulting in a nasty burn.
* Prior meditation or at least focusing on intention and inner calm can be benefiting.
* Remember to let go, dont struggle. Its normal that the hearbeat accelerates in the come up. Some people fear they are dying or that they wont return, but dont worry FOR SURE you come back, as it has happened with everybody else. Some people feel that they lose their breath, but its just a feeling.. As long as the airway is not physically blocked, then dont worry our body has a built-in mechanism that prevents one from stopping breathing.
* Dont be scared, entities cant hurt you in real life if you dont believe it. Try to not make 'good/bad' judgements during the experience, dont resist!! Just go with the flow of the ride. Some images may appear positive, negative, incredible, impossible to describe, etc, but you are safe regardless of what comes.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5900 Favourite setting for smoking DMT]

=== What about other ingestion methods (intranasal, intrarectal, Atomizer/E-cig etc) ? ===

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods Ingestion Methods]

=== Can DMT be IVed? ===

It can, but we do not recommend it mainly for two reasons:

1- The only official research done with DMT by Rick Strassmann used FDA-approved ultra pure DMT fumarate. The quality of home extraction products is questionable, one may have solvent traces and other impurities that could be uncomfortable, painful or downright dangerous to inject.

2- The onset of the effects are so quick that one might not be able to take out the needle in time and accidentally ripping their vein out while in hyperspace, or putting it down too near and rolling around/puncturing oneself

IF one is gonna do it inspite of contrary recommendations, then please: Take care in making many purifying steps (several recrystallizations/washes) and making sure it has no solvent or other chemical traces in the final product (redissolving the recrystallized product in USP grade acetone or ethanol and re-evaporating, scrapping and letting it dry completely before converting to fumarates in a sterile solution, etc.). Check the first link below for tips on how to prepare for injection and safety proceedures

Also, for the first try, take at most 0.2mg/kg, preferably less. And VERY importantly, [[do NOT do it by yourself]], have a sitter that is experienced with needles inject for you and be there to make sure you are physically safe.

==== Links ====

* [http://www.hipforums.com/newforums/showpost.php?p=6347899&postcount=5 Entheogen Review article on safe injection proceedure]
* [http://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4128 iv dmt]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1521 IV DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3016 IV DMT?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=144148 Injecting DMT]
* [http://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=7450 FASA safe for injection?]

=== How can I estimate the amount of mimosa? ===

==== Links ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=236540#post236540 Estimating mimosa amount]

== DMT/Plant storage ==

=== Does DMT go bad? ===

The main degradation product of dmt seems to be dmt n-oxide, which is also psychoactive. Some people enjoy and find qualitative difference in n-oxide compared to dmt. On the other hand, other people report negative experiences with old spice, but it is unknown how much is self-suggestion and how much is really true. The rate at which dmt converts to n-oxide logically depends on factors such as air exposure and temperature, but so far there havent been any quantitative tests to tell how fast it goes in a given condition.

In any case, n-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

Many people convert the freebase to dmt fumarate for storage, as its claimed to be a more stable salt.

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1553 DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=302112#post302112 DMT oxidation rate]

=== Does mimosa go bad? ===

Generally mimosa should not go bad even after months/years. If it looks fine and doesnt have some mutant fungus growing on it, its perfect :) There are reports of people using mimosa that was for many months or even years in a drawer without any significant problem (though as with anything, its always more prudent to store in dark, dry, cold place).

The main possible degradation is of dmt into dmt n-oxide. Dmt n-oxide is also psychoactive, but it is not soluble in naphtha, which may cause some people to get small yields when extracting from older bark. N-oxide is soluble in limonene/xylene/toluene/etc, so one could extract it with those solvents without loss of yield. Alternatively, N-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

For oral usage of mimosa, formation of n-oxide wouldnt really affect much as it will be water soluble so one will still get the effects when consuming the brew.

==== Links ====
* [[DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3570 How long should MHRB keep]

=== Whats the best way to store DMT? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

In any case, one can also convert to dmt fumarate which is a very stable salt form of dmt

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4482 Long-term storage]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4867 How to store DMT for longest]

=== Whats the best way to store Mimosa? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

Logically, bark in pieces will keep better than when powdered

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1488 Storing mimosa hostilis]

== DMT Allies ==

=== What is jungle spice ? ===

http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359543#post359543
Jungle Spice is the product resulting from an extraction of mimosa hostilis using a solvent more polar than naphtha (such as xylene, toluene, limonene, ether, DCM, etc). Sometimes people also call it JimJam, which was first called only for limonene extracted products, but analysis shown it to be equivalent to what is extracted with xylene. Chemical analysis has shown that both naphtha as well as xylene/limonene extract mostly DMT (around 90%), plus around or under 1% 2-methy-1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-beta-carboline (2MTHBC) and NMT. The psychoactivity of 2MTHBC is unknown at this point, and NMT does appear to be psychoactive, though a quarter of the potency of DMT. Appart from these mentioned alkaloids, Xylene, when evaporated, and both limonene or xylene, when salted with an acidic solution like vinegar or FASW, also yield around 0.2% MTHBC (tetrahydroharman), and what could be 1,2-dimethyl-tetrahydrobetacarboline or a yuremamine degradation product (as suggested by dozuki in the jungle spice analysis thread linked below). Very little to nothing is known about these two 'extra' beta-carbolines in junglespice/jimjam, if they are psychoactive or can potentiate DMT.

Some people claim jungle spice to be stronger or produce a different experience than pure DMT. This may be self-suggestion (people thinking it is stronger/different therefore feeling it), it may be that the inactive oils/impurities present in jungle spice somehow protect DMT from heat, making a more effective vaporization, and therefore feel stronger. It may also be that the beta carbolines together, have a synergistic effect with DMT making a stronger experience, or it may be that these beta carbolines would only really be noticeable if they were in a larger quantity as is the case with some Acacias. It may be a mixture of any or all of the above possibilities.

Only further testing (such as blind self-experiments and more analysis) will help us isolating the variables and answer the questions on junglespice's activity

For more information on jungle spice, check the links below

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1115 Jungle Spice]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=10553 Jungle Spice chemical analysis]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23544 Entheogenic effects of NMT]

=== What is changa / How to make changa ? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Changa Changa WIKI]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to DMT enhanced leaf (changa)] thread
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=27537 How does your changa looks like ?] thread

=== What type of caapi/ayahuasca vine should I use, what are the differences ? ===

Different ethnobotanical suppliers seem to stock different varieties of caapi. Often they use color names (for example black caapi, white caapi, etc), or other names used by local / mestizos / indigenous people (caupuri, ourinhos, etc). The problem is that there is no consensus regarding the classification of different caapi vines, so some indigenous people may recognize 2 types, in another tribe they may recognize 10 types, and so on. These types may overlap or they may even be in contradiction with each other. Also botanists would not necessarily agree with those types, as sometimes classification from indigenous people is not based on how a plant looks, but also on its effects, purpose, etc. In fact, some of what is sold as "black/red/whatever caapi" may even be of a different genus/species altogether (more discussion on this on links below)

There is an ongoing analysis project going on with different caapi/ayahuasca vines (link below), and it seems some caapis have very similar alkaloid/chemical component even if they have different names, while others may have quite different content even if they are named the same. The difference can be in ratio of alkaloids or total alkaloid yield, for example some black caapi from one vendor yielded over 2% alkaloids, a black caapi from another vendor yielded 0.5%.

Regarding the type/function/effects of different caapis, at this point any conclusions and generalizations are not possible. As an example, at times it's said that black caapi is used for more witchcraft kind of rituals by some shamans, but this doesnt mean that: a- that particular group is "correct", b-that other groups would agree with what they call "black caapi", c- That the black caapi you find is equivalent to that, d- that you cant use it for another purpose and have a great experience regardless.

It may be that there is a pattern between alkaloid content of different caapi vines (some may have more harmaline, or more THH, etc), but at this point we cannot yet say. Also even if a correctly identified subtype of caapi would have a specific alkaloid content, we would still have to make the assumption that the vendors are actually identifying correctly.

If you want to decide what type of caapi to get, one thing you could do is check the suppliers section and see if this specific caapi from the specific vendor has been reviewed, and dont believe in generalizations (all caapi "X" is strong and gives dark trips, all caapi "Y" is light and for beginners). Start with low dosage (10-20g) for the first time to gauge the strenght of this particular batch you have acquired, and then raise the dosage accordingly if necessary.

Another thing to do is to buy at least 2 different types and then take them in separate occasions, and then sharing the results with the community, and that way we all grow together.

Do check the links below as they have very relevant discussions regarding the different caapi types:

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29967 Caapi analysis thread]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32018 Poorly understood family of ayahuasca vines]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=30106 tetrapterys methystica (painted caapi) and other kinds of caapi]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=325495#post325495 Which caapi should I get ?]

== Plant sources ==

=== What are the best DMT-containing plants in my area ? ===

One good way to check what DMT plants you have around you is to look at the Nexus Wiki lists for [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT plants containing DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT] ) . Then use the search function of [http://www.discoverlife.org discoverlife page] or [http://bonap.org/genera-list.html bonap] to search the plants names and see in the species map if any of the good candidates grow near you, or alternatively, you can first identify the plants growing around you and search for their scientific name on the mentioned wiki lists.

If you don't find any plants growing around you, you can consider cultivating some ideal plants yourself, for example checking out the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=38229 Top Acacias To Grow Worldwide Thread] for the mid-long term, or getting known cuttings of phalaris with good alkaloid content such as AQ1 and big medicine (for more info check all the links in the first post of the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]) which can be harvested pretty quick

=== Does this plant contain DMT ? ===

Often people ask in the forum if the plant they have growing around them contains DMT. Then they might post pictures of the plants and expect an identification. Before that is done, the person asking needs to do some basic things:

1- Look up the information to know the plants that contain interesting alkaloids. The best resources are the Nexus wiki of plants containing [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT].

If it's an Acacia, read the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Acacia information thread] and if it's a Phalaris read the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]. Those threads contain information on seed suppliers, geographic location, season of harvest, conditions of growth and variation in alkaloid content, etc, which the person should become familiar with.

2-The person should try to identify the local plants based on the information in the above links. Posting picture of random plants without at least having some clue on what they could be, will only make everybody's life much harder. Look up images of suspected plants and compare, see in what they may differ.

3- Take detailed pictures of the different plant parts (overall plant, leaf close up front and back, seedpods and flower close ups if they are there). Often to differentiate between species the details are important, so blurry bad quality pictures or single pictures with no close ups or details of different plant parts are not enough.

4- Post your ID request in the [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=358663#post358663 Acacia ID thread] if it's a suspected Acacia, or make a new thread if it's a differen't plant. Be sure to say what plant you think it is, and include information such as general geographic area, the detailed pics above, and any possible differences you may have seen with the plant you think it is.

5- If your plant gets identified and you plan on harvesting, please only harvest sustainably! Check [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=344487#post344487 this] post for more information

=== Links ===

'''[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Containing_Plants WIKI -> DMT Containing Plants].''''

'''[http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Botanicals WIKI -> Botanicals].'''

''' [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=369566#post369566 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace] '''

''' [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Trying to improve Acacia information] '''

''' [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33648 Acacia Identification Thread] '''

''' [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip] '''

''' [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip] '''

.

== Reference ==
<references/>

Category:DMT Containing Plants

2014-05-05T07:27:02Z

Cosmic Spore: /* WIKI -> Botanicals (link). */

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is to remain in accordance with the Botanical Transclusion Project, in which only a partial transclusion of each plant's individual page is to be included her in the form of an info box. The proper procedure to create a page for each plant is to transfer its info box from this page to its own page in the following manner:
{{ShowInfo/In Article|[[Image:Information.png]]|Format for Initial Page Creation
|
<nowiki>
{{Botanical Transclusion Header}}
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
<onlyinclude>
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
{{botanics_info|Plant Image|Plant Name|
* Alkaloid Content w/ Reference
|Optional Nickname
}}
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
</onlyinclude>
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
{{Wikipedia}}
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
== Reference ==
</nowiki>
<br>
<nowiki>
{{Page Footer}}
</nowiki>
}}
The Wikipedia transclusion may be replaced if personal authorship is desirable.
}}

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a work in progress -- its content throughout is not yet complete.}}

==[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Botanicals#Plants WIKI -> Botanicals] (link).==
[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa.zip]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia.zip]

==DMT Containing plants==
The following is a list of plants known to contain tryptamines.

=== Acacia ===
{{:Acacia_acuminata}}

{{:Acacia_alpina}}

{{:Acacia angustifolia}}

{{:Acacia angustissima}}

{{:Acacia auriculiformis}}

{{:Acacia baileyana}}

{{:Acacia berlandieri}}

{{:Acacia catechu}}

{{:Acacia caven}}

{{:Acacia colei}}

{{:Acacia complanata}}

{{:Acacia constricta}}

{{:Acacia confusa}}

{{:Acacia cornigera}}

{{:Acacia cultriformis}}

{{:Acacia farnesiana}}

{{:Acacia filiciana}}

{{:Acacia_floribunda}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia georginae|
* Psychoactive,[8] plus deadly toxins
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia greggii|
* N-methyl-β-phenethylamine,[12] phenethylamine[36]
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia harpophylla|
* Phenethylamine, hordenine at a ratio of 2:3 in dried leaves, 0.6% total[6]
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia holoserica|
* Hordenine, 1.2% in bark[6]
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia horrida|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia implexa|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia karroo|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia kempeana|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia kettlewelliae|
* 1.5[6]–1.88%[38] alkaloids, 92% consisting of phenylethylamine.[6] 0.9% N-methyl-2-phenylethylamine found a different time
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia laeta|
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia lingulata|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia longifolia|
* 0.2% tryptamine in bark, leaves, some in flowers, phenylethylamine in flowers (Hegnauer 1994)
* DMT in plant (Lyceaum)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia macradenia|
* Tryptamine
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia maidenii|
* Bark of A. maidenii contains 0.6% of N-methyltryptamine and DMT in the proportions approx. 2:3 (Fitzgerald & Sioumis 1965)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia mangium|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia melanoxylon|
* DMT in the bark and leaf, less than 0.02% total alkaloids (Hegnauer 1994)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia mellifera|
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia nilotica|
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia obtusifolia|
* 0.4 to 0.5 % DMT/NMT in the dried bark (Csiro 1990)
*0.15-0.6% DMT,NMT(2:1)plus trace betacarboline in bark, 0.06-0.2% leaves (Southern Cross University comissioned test 2001)
*5-MeoDMT & bufotenine in some loctations (E., Entheogen Review 1995-6; Trout's Notes 2005-10) Is not fast growing in the wild and is under threat of serious overharvesting. Is NOT considered a weed as previously stated here, and will become rarer if wild seed populations exploited further.(Nen, original bioassay subject)
{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia oerfota|
* Less than 0.1% DMT in leaf (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia penninervis|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia phlebophylla|
* 0.3% DMT in leaf, NMT (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia platensis|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia podalyriaefolia|
* Tryptamine in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
* 0.5% to 2% DMT in fresh bark, phenethylamine trace amounts (Hegnauer 1994)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia polyacantha|
* DMT in leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia pycantha|
* Psychoactive,[8] but less than 0.02% total alkaloids
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia retinodes|
* DMT and MMT (www.factorey.ch/Eins.htm)
* Less than 0.02% total alkaloids found (Hegnauer 1994)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia roemeriana|
* β-methyl-phenethylamine
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia rigidula|
* DMT, NMT, tryptamine, amphetamines, mescaline, nicotine and others (Phytochem. 199
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia salicina|
* Psychoactive[8][9] Ash used in Pituri.
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia sassa|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia schaffneri|
* β-methyl-phenethylamine, Phenethylamine[36] Amphetamines and mescaline also found
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia schottii|
* β-methyl-phenethylamine
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia senegal|
* DMT, in the leaf
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia simplex|
*DMT and NMT, in the leaf, stem and trunk bark, 0.81% DMT in bark, MMT
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia taxensis|
* β-methyl-phenethylamine
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia tenuifolia|
* Psychoactive
}}

{{botanics_info|File:290px-Eat267.jpg|Acacia tortilis|
* DMT, NMT, and other tryptamines
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia sieberiana|
* DMT in the leaf (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia verek|
* Psychoactive (Rätsch 2004)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Acacia vestita|
* Tryptamine, in the leaf and stem (Trout's Notes)
* Less than 0.02% total alkaloids (Hegnauer 1994)
}}

=== Anadenanthera ===
{{:Anadenanthera colubrina}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Anadenanthera macrocarpa|
* Seed pods contain dimethyltryptamine and the seeds bufotenin, bufotenin oxide, and oxide of dimethyltryptamine (GRANIER-DOYEUX 1965)
}}

{{:Anadenanthera_peregrina}}

=== Common Reed ===
{{botanics_info|image:arundo_donax.jpg|Arundo donax|Entire Plant contains 5-MeO-DMT (Shulgin, TIHKAL)Flowers contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, and 5-MeO-NMT (Shulgin, TIHKAL)Roots contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, 5-MeO-NMT, Bufotenine, bufotenidine, dehydrobufotenidine (Shulgin, TIHKAL)}}

{{botanics_info|image:desmanthus.jpg|Desmanthus illinoensis|Root contains DMT - 0.200% (Ott)Root Bark contains DMT - 0.340% (Ott)}}

{{:Phalaris_arundinacea}}

{{botanics_info|image:phalaris_aquatica.jpg|Phalaris tuberosa|Leaves and seedlings contain DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, and related compounds (Smith 1977)DMT - 0.100% (erowid)5-MeO-DMT - 0.022% (erowid)5-OH-DMT - 0.005% (erowid)}}

{{:Phragmites_australis}}

=== Delosperma ===
{{botanics_info|Image:Delosperma acuminatum2.jpg|Delosperma acuminatum|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:delosperma_acuminatum.jpg|Delosperma cooperi|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:iceplantbrighteyes-may.jpg|Delosperma ecklonis|DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:Delosperma_esterhuyseniae.jpg|Delosperma esterhuyseniae|DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma hallii|5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma harazianum|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma hirtum|DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:DelospermaLydenbergense.jpg|Delosperma lydenbergense|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma nubigenum|5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma pageanum|DMT, 5-MEO-DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Delosperma pergamentaceum|Traces of DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

{{botanics_info|image:180px-Delosperma_tradescantioides_leafs_IMGP0042.jpg|Delosperma tradescantioides|DMT (Trout's Notes)}}

=== Desmodium ===
{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium caudatum|
* Roots: 0.087% DMT, Bufotenine-N-oxide 0.03% (Trout's Notes)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium gangeticum|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT, whole plant, roots, stems, leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium gyrans|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT, leaves, roots (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium pulchellum|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT, whole plant, roots, stems, leaves, flowers (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium racemosum|
* 5-MEO-DMT (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Desmodium triflorum|
* DMT-N-oxide, roots (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Lespedeza bicolor|var. japonica
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in leaves and root bark (Ott)
}}

=== Petalostylis ===
{{botanics_info|image:petalostylis_cassioides.jpg|Petalostylis cassioides|0.4-0.5% tryptamine, DMT, etc. in leaves and stems (Johns et al 1966)}}

=== Mimosa ===
{{:Mimosa hostilis}}

{{:Mimosa ophthalmocentra}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Mimosa scabrella|
* DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|File:250px-Mimosa_verrucosa01.jpg|Mimosa verrucosa|
* DMT (Schultes 1969)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Mucuna pruriens|
* Leaves, seeds, stems and roots contain L-Dopa, Serotonin, 5-HTP, and Nicotine, as well as N,N-DMT, Bufotenine, and 5-MeO-DMT (Erowid)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Petalostylis labicheoides|var. casseoides
* DMT in leaves and stems (Ott)
}}

{{:Diplopterys_cabrerana}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Horsfieldia superba|
* 5-MeO-DMT and beta-carbolines (Jossang et al. 1991)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Iryanthera ulei|
* 5-MEO-DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Osteophloem platyspermum|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

=== Virola===
{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola calophylla|
* Leaves 0.149% DMT (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola carinata|
* DMT in leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola divergens|
* DMT in leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola elongata|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark and leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola melinonii|
* DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola multinervia|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark and leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola pavonis|
* DMT in leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola peruviana|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola rufuta|
* Alkaloids in bark and root, 95% of which is 5-MeO-DMT (Shulgin, TIHKAL)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola sebifera|
* DMT in bark (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola theiodora|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in bark, roots, leaves and flowers (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Virola venosa|
* DMT, 5-MEO-DMT in roots and leaves (Ott)
}}

{{botanics_info|image:NoImage.png|Psychotria carthaginensis|
* 0.2% average DMT in dried leaves (Ott)
}}

{{:Psychotria_viridis}}

==Sources==

{{Page_Footer|Botanicals|DMT}}

Category:Botanicals

2014-05-05T07:26:34Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Plants */

= Plants =

[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Containing_Plants WIKI -> DMT Containing Plants]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Mimosa.zip Mimosa.zip]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Acacia.zip Acacia.zip]
== General species info ==

* [[Acacia spp.]]
* [[Phalaris spp.]]

== All Plants ==

* [[Acacia abbatiana]]
* [[Acacia abbreviata]]
* [[Acacia abrupta]]
* [[Acacia acanthaster]]
* [[Acacia acanthoclada]]
* [[Acacia acellerata]]
* [[Acacia acinacea]]
* [[Acacia aciphylla]]
* [[Acacia acoma]]
* [[Acacia acradenia]]
* [[Acacia acrionastes]]
* [[Acacia acuaria]]
* [[Acacia aculeatissima]]
* [[Acacia aculeiformis]]
* [[Acacia acuminata]]
* [[Acacia acutata]]
* [[Acacia adenogonia]]
* [[Acacia adinophylla]]
* [[Acacia adnata]]
* [[Acacia adoxa]]
* [[Acacia adsurgens]]
* [[Acacia adunca]]
* [[Acacia aemula]]
* [[Acacia aestivalis]]
* [[Acacia alata]]
* [[Acacia alaticaulis]]
* [[Acacia albida (Faidherbia albida)]]
* [[Acacia alcockii]]
* [[Acacia alexandri]]
* [[Acacia alleniana]]
* [[Acacia alpina]]
* [[Acacia amanda]]
* [[Acacia amblygona]]
* [[Acacia amblyophylla]]
* [[Acacia amentifera]]
* [[Acacia ammobia]]
* [[Acacia ammophila]]
* [[Acacia amoena]]
* [[Acacia ampliata]]
* [[Acacia ampliceps]]
* [[Acacia amyctica]]
* [[Acacia anasilla]]
* [[Acacia anastema]]
* [[Acacia anastomosa]]
* [[Acacia anaticeps]]
* [[Acacia anceps]]
* [[Acacia ancistrocarpa]]
* [[Acacia ancistrophylla]]
* [[Acacia andrewsii]]
* [[Acacia aneura]]
* [[Acacia anfractuosa]]
* [[Acacia angusta]]
* [[Acacia angustifolia]]
* [[Acacia angustissima]]
* [[Acacia anomala]]
* [[Acacia anserina]]
* [[Acacia anthochaera]]
* [[Acacia aphylla]]
* [[Acacia applanata]]
* [[Acacia aprepta]]
* [[Acacia aprica]]
* [[Acacia aptaneura]]
* [[Acacia arafurica]]
* [[Acacia araneosa]]
* [[Acacia arbiana]]
* [[Acacia arcuatilis]]
* [[Acacia areolata]]
* [[Acacia argentina]]
* [[Acacia argutifolia]]
* [[Acacia argyraea]]
* [[Acacia argyrodendron]]
* [[Acacia argyrophylla]]
* [[Acacia argyrotricha]]
* [[Acacia arida]]
* [[Acacia aristulata]]
* [[Acacia armillata]]
* [[Acacia armitii]]
* [[Acacia arrecta]]
* [[Acacia ascendens]]
* [[Acacia asepala]]
* [[Acacia ashbyae]]
* [[Acacia asparagoides]]
* [[Acacia aspera]]
* [[Acacia asperulacea]]
* [[Acacia assimilis]]
* [[Acacia ataxiphylla]]
* [[Acacia atkinsiana]]
* [[Acacia atopa]]
* [[Acacia atrox]]
* [[Acacia attenuata]]
* [[Acacia aulacocarpa]]
* [[Acacia aulacophylla]]
* [[Acacia auratiflora]]
* [[Acacia aureocrinita]]
* [[Acacia auricoma]]
* [[Acacia auriculiformis]]
* [[Acacia auripila]]
* [[Acacia auronitens]]
* [[Acacia ausfeldii]]
* [[Acacia awestoniana]]
* [[Acacia axillaris]]
* [[Acacia ayersiana]]

* [[Acacia baeuerlenii]]
* [[Acacia baileyana]]
* [[Acacia bakeri]]
* [[Acacia balsamea]]
* [[Acacia bancroftiorum]]
* [[Acacia barakulensis]]
* [[Acacia barattensis]]
* [[Acacia barbinervis]]
* [[Acacia barrettiorum]]
* [[Acacia barringtonensis]]
* [[Acacia bartlei]]
* [[Acacia basedowii]]
* [[Acacia baueri]]
* [[Acacia baxteri]]
* [[Acacia beadleana]]
* [[Acacia beauverdiana]]
* [[Acacia beckleri]]
* [[Acacia benthamii]]
* [[Acacia berlandieri]]
* [[Acacia betchei]]
* [[Acacia bidentata]]
* [[Acacia bifaria]]
* [[Acacia biflora]]
* [[Acacia binata]]
* [[Acacia binervata]]
* [[Acacia binervia]]
* [[Acacia bivenosa]]
* [[Acacia blakei]]
* [[Acacia blakelyi]]
* [[Acacia blaxellii]]
* [[Acacia blayana]]
* [[Acacia boormanii]]
* [[Acacia botrydion]]
* [[Acacia brachybotrya]]
* [[Acacia brachycarpa]]
* [[Acacia brachyclada]]
* [[Acacia brachyphylla]]
* [[Acacia brachypoda]]
* [[Acacia brachystachya]]
* [[Acacia bracteolata]]
* [[Acacia brassii]]
* [[Acacia brockii]]
* [[Acacia bromilowiana]]
* [[Acacia brownii]]
* [[Acacia brumalis]]
* [[Acacia brunioides]]
* [[Acacia bulgaensis]]
* [[Acacia burbidgeae]]
* [[Acacia burdekensis]]
* [[Acacia burkittii]]
* [[Acacia burrana]]
* [[Acacia burrowii]]
* [[Acacia burrowsiana]]
* [[Acacia buxifolia]]
* [[Acacia bynoeana]]

* [[Acacia caerulescens]]
* [[Acacia caesaneura]]
* [[Acacia caesariata]]
* [[Acacia caesiella]]
* [[Acacia calamifolia]]
* [[Acacia calantha]]
* [[Acacia calcarata]]
* [[Acacia calcicola]]
* [[Acacia calligera]]
* [[Acacia calyculata]]
* [[Acacia cambagei]]
* [[Acacia camptocarpa]]
* [[Acacia camptoclada]]
* [[Acacia campylophylla]]
* [[Acacia cana]]
* [[Acacia cangaiensis]]
* [[Acacia capillaris]]
* [[Acacia cardiophylla]]
* [[Acacia carens]]
* [[Acacia carneorum]]
* [[Acacia carnosula]]
* [[Acacia caroleae]]
* [[Acacia cassicula]]
* [[Acacia castanostegia]]
* [[Acacia cataractae]]
* [[Acacia catechu]]
* [[Acacia catenulata]]
* [[Acacia cavealis]]
* [[Acacia caven]]
* [[Acacia cedroides]]
* [[Acacia celastrifolia]]
* [[Acacia celsa]]
* [[Acacia centrinervia]]
* [[Acacia cerastes]]
* [[Acacia chalkeri]]
* [[Acacia chamaeleon]]
* [[Acacia chapmanii]]
* [[Acacia chartacea]]
* [[Acacia cheelii]]
* [[Acacia chinchillensis]]
* [[Acacia chippendalei]]
* [[Acacia chisholmii]]
* [[Acacia chrysella]]
* [[Acacia chrysocephala]]
* [[Acacia chrysochaeta]]
* [[Acacia chrysopoda]]
* [[Acacia chrysotricha]]
* [[Acacia cincinnata]]
* [[Acacia citrinoviridis]]
* [[Acacia clandullensis]]
* [[Acacia claviseta]]
* [[Acacia clelandii]]
* [[Acacia clunies-rossiae]]
* [[Acacia clydonophora]]
* [[Acacia cochlearis]]
* [[Acacia cochlocarpa]]
* [[Acacia cockertoniana]]
* [[Acacia cognata]]
* [[Acacia colei]]
* [[Acacia colletioides]]
* [[Acacia comans]]
* [[Acacia complanata]]
* [[Acacia concolorans]]
* [[Acacia concurrens]]
* [[Acacia conferta]]
* [[Acacia confluens]]
* [[Acacia confusa]]
* [[Acacia congesta]]
* [[Acacia conjunctifolia]]
* [[Acacia conniana]]
* [[Acacia consanguinea]]
* [[Acacia consobrina]]
* [[Acacia conspersa]]
* [[Acacia constablei]]
* [[Acacia constricta]]
* [[Acacia continua]]
* [[Acacia convallium]]
* [[Acacia coolgardiensis]]
* [[Acacia coriacea]]
* [[Acacia cornigera]]
* [[Acacia costata]]
* [[Acacia costiniana]]
* [[Acacia courtii]]
* [[Acacia covenyi]]
* [[Acacia cowaniana]]
* [[Acacia cowleana]]
* [[Acacia cracentis]]
* [[Acacia craspedocarpa]]
* [[Acacia crassa]]
* [[Acacia crassicarpa]]
* [[Acacia crassistipula]]
* [[Acacia crassiuscula]]
* [[Acacia crassuloides]]
* [[Acacia cremiflora]]
* [[Acacia crenulata]]
* [[Acacia cretacea]]
* [[Acacia cretata]]
* [[Acacia crispula]]
* [[Acacia crombiei]]
* [[Acacia cultriformis]]
* [[Acacia cummingiana]]
* [[Acacia cuneifolia]]
* [[Acacia cupularis]]
* [[Acacia curranii]]
* [[Acacia curvata]]
* [[Acacia cuspidifolia]]
* [[Acacia cuthbertsonii]]
* [[Acacia cyclocarpa]]
* [[Acacia cyclops]]
* [[Acacia cylindrica]]
* [[Acacia cyperophylla]]

* [[Acacia dacrydioides]]
* [[Acacia dallachiana]]
* [[Acacia dangarensis]]
* [[Acacia daphnifolia]]
* [[Acacia daviesii]]
* [[Acacia daviesioides]]
* [[Acacia dawsonii]]
* [[Acacia dealbata]]
* [[Acacia deanei]]
* [[Acacia debilis]]
* [[Acacia declinata]]
* [[Acacia decora]]
* [[Acacia decurrens]]
* [[Acacia deficiens]]
* [[Acacia deflexa]]
* [[Acacia delibrata]]
* [[Acacia delicatula]]
* [[Acacia delphina]]
* [[Acacia deltoidea]]
* [[Acacia demissa]]
* [[Acacia dempsteri]]
* [[Acacia densiflora]]
* [[Acacia denticulosa]]
* [[Acacia dentifera]]
* [[Acacia depressa]]
* [[Acacia dermatophylla]]
* [[Acacia derwentiana]]
* [[Acacia desertorum]]
* [[Acacia desmondii]]
* [[Acacia deuteroneura]]
* [[Acacia diallaga]]
* [[Acacia diaphana]]
* [[Acacia diaphyllodinea]]
* [[Acacia diastemata]]
* [[Acacia dictyocarpa]]
* [[Acacia dictyoneura]]
* [[Acacia dictyophleba]]
* [[Acacia didyma]]
* [[Acacia dielsii]]
* [[Acacia dietrichiana]]
* [[Acacia difficilis]]
* [[Acacia difformis]]
* [[Acacia dilatata]]
* [[Acacia dimidiata]]
* [[Acacia diminuta]]
* [[Acacia dimorpha]]
* [[Acacia disparrima]]
* [[Acacia dissimilis]]
* [[Acacia dissona]]
* [[Acacia distans]]
* [[Acacia disticha]]
* [[Acacia divergens]]
* [[Acacia dodonaeifolia]]
* [[Acacia dolichophylla]]
* [[Acacia donaldsonii]]
* [[Acacia doratoxylon]]
* [[Acacia dorothea]]
* [[Acacia dorsenna]]
* [[Acacia drepanocarpa]]
* [[Acacia drepanophylla]]
* [[Acacia dunnii]]
* [[Acacia dura]]
* [[Acacia durabilis]]
* [[Acacia duriuscula]]

* [[Acacia echinula]]
* [[Acacia echinuliflora]]
* [[Acacia effusa]]
* [[Acacia effusifolia]]
* [[Acacia elachantha]]
* [[Acacia elata]]
* [[Acacia elongata]]
* [[Acacia enervia]]
* [[Acacia ensifolia]]
* [[Acacia enterocarpa]]
* [[Acacia epedunculata]]
* [[Acacia ephedroides]]
* [[Acacia equisetifolia]]
* [[Acacia eremaea]]
* [[Acacia eremophila]]
* [[Acacia eremophiloides]]
* [[Acacia ericifolia]]
* [[Acacia ericksoniae]]
* [[Acacia erinacea]]
* [[Acacia erioclada]]
* [[Acacia eriopoda]]
* [[Acacia errabunda]]
* [[Acacia estrophiolata]]
* [[Acacia euthycarpa]]
* [[Acacia euthyphylla]]
* [[Acacia evenulosa]]
* [[Acacia everistii]]
* [[Acacia excelsa]]
* [[Acacia excentrica]]
* [[Acacia exilis]]
* [[Acacia exocarpoides]]
* [[Acacia extensa]]
* [[Acacia exudans]]

* [[Acacia falcata]]
* [[Acacia falciformis]]
* [[Acacia farinosa]]
* [[Acacia fasciculifera]]
* [[Acacia faucium]]
* [[Acacia fauntleroyi]]
* [[Acacia fecunda]]
* [[Acacia ferocior]]
* [[Acacia filamentosa]]
* [[Acacia filicifolia]]
* [[Acacia filifolia]]
* [[Acacia filipes]]
* [[Acacia fimbriata]]
* [[Acacia flabellifolia]]
* [[Acacia flagelliformis]]
* [[Acacia flavescens]]
* [[Acacia flavipila]]
* [[Acacia fleckeri]]
* [[Acacia flexifolia]]
* [[Acacia flocktoniae]]
* [[Acacia floribunda]]
* [[Acacia floydii]]
* [[Acacia fodinalis]]
* [[Acacia formidabilis]]
* [[Acacia forrestiana]]
* [[Acacia forsythii]]
* [[Acacia fragilis]]
* [[Acacia frigescens]]
* [[Acacia froggattii]]
* [[Acacia fulva]]
* [[Acacia fuscaneura]]

* [[Acacia galeata]]
* [[Acacia galioides]]
* [[Acacia gardneri]]
* [[Acacia gelasina]]
* [[Acacia gemina]]
* [[Acacia genistifolia]]
* [[Acacia georgensis]]
* [[Acacia georginae]]
* [[Acacia gibbosa]]
* [[Acacia gibsonii]]
* [[Acacia gilesiana]]
* [[Acacia gillii]]
* [[Acacia gittinsii]]
* [[Acacia gladiiformis]]
* [[Acacia glandulicarpa]]
* [[Acacia glaucissima]]
* [[Acacia glaucocaesia]]
* [[Acacia glaucocarpa]]
* [[Acacia glaucoptera]]
* [[Acacia gloeotricha]]
* [[Acacia glutinosissima]]
* [[Acacia gnidium]]
* [[Acacia gonocarpa]]
* [[Acacia gonoclada]]
* [[Acacia gonophylla]]
* [[Acacia gordonii]]
* [[Acacia gracilenta]]
* [[Acacia gracilifolia]]
* [[Acacia graciliformis]]
* [[Acacia gracillima]]
* [[Acacia grandifolia]]
* [[Acacia graniticola]]
* [[Acacia grasbyi]]
* [[Acacia gregorii]]
* [[Acacia gunnii]]
* [[Acacia guymeri]]

* [[Acacia hadrophylla]]
* [[Acacia hakeoides]]
* [[Acacia halliana]]
* [[Acacia hamersleyensis]]
* [[Acacia hamiltoniana]]
* [[Acacia hammondii]]
* [[Acacia handonis]]
* [[Acacia harpophylla]]
* [[Acacia harveyi]]
* [[Acacia hastulata]]
* [[Acacia havilandiorum]]
* [[Acacia helicophylla]]
* [[Acacia helmsiana]]
* [[Acacia hemignosta]]
* [[Acacia hemiteles]]
* [[Acacia hemsleyi]]
* [[Acacia hendersonii]]
* [[Acacia heterochroa]]
* [[Acacia heteroclita]]
* [[Acacia heteroneura]]
* [[Acacia heterophylla]]
* [[Acacia hexaneura]]
* [[Acacia hilliana]]
* [[Acacia hippuroides]]
* [[Acacia hispidula]]
* [[Acacia hockingsii]]
* [[Acacia holosericea]]
* [[Acacia holotricha]]
* [[Acacia homaloclada]]
* [[Acacia homalophylla]]
* [[Acacia hopperiana]]
* [[Acacia horridula]]
* [[Acacia howittii]]
* [[Acacia hubbardiana]]
* [[Acacia huegelii]]
* [[Acacia humifusa]]
* [[Acacia hyaloneura]]
* [[Acacia hylonoma]]
* [[Acacia hypermeces]]
* [[Acacia hystrix]]

* [[Acacia idiomorpha]]
* [[Acacia imbricata]]
* [[Acacia imitans]]
* [[Acacia imparilis]]
* [[Acacia implexa]]
* [[Acacia improcera]]
* [[Acacia inaequilatera]]
* [[Acacia inaequiloba]]
* [[Acacia inamabilis]]
* [[Acacia incanicarpa]]
* [[Acacia inceana]]
* [[Acacia incognita]]
* [[Acacia incongesta]]
* [[Acacia incrassata]]
* [[Acacia incurva]]
* [[Acacia incurvaneura]]
* [[Acacia infecunda]]
* [[Acacia ingramii]]
* [[Acacia ingrata]]
* [[Acacia inophloia]]
* [[Acacia inops]]
* [[Acacia insolita]]
* [[Acacia intorta]]
* [[Acacia intricata]]
* [[Acacia irrorata]]
* [[Acacia islana]]
* [[Acacia isoneura]]
* [[Acacia iteaphylla]]
* [[Acacia ixiophylla]]
* [[Acacia ixodes]]

* [[Acacia jackesiana]]
* [[Acacia jacksonioides]]
* [[Acacia jamesiana]]
* [[Acacia jasperensis]]
* [[Acacia jennerae]]
* [[Acacia jensenii]]
* [[Acacia jibberdingensis]]
* [[Acacia johannis]]
* [[Acacia johnsonii]]
* [[Acacia jonesii]]
* [[Acacia jucunda]]
* [[Acacia julifera]]
* [[Acacia juncifolia]]

* [[Acacia kalgoorliensis]]
* [[Acacia karina]]
* [[Acacia kauaiensis]]
* [[Acacia kelleri]]
* [[Acacia kempeana]]
* [[Acacia kenneallyi]]
* [[Acacia kerryana]]
* [[Acacia kettlewelliae]]
* [[Acacia kimberleyensis]]
* [[Acacia kingiana]]
* [[Acacia koa]]
* [[Acacia koaia]]
* [[Acacia kochii]]
* [[Acacia kulnurensis]]
* [[Acacia kybeanensis]]
* [[Acacia kydrensis]]

* [[Acacia laccata]]
* [[Acacia lacertensis]]
* [[Acacia lachnophylla]]
* [[Acacia laeta]]
* [[Acacia lamprocarpa]]
* [[Acacia lanceolata]]
* [[Acacia lanei]]
* [[Acacia lanigera]]
* [[Acacia lanuginophylla]]
* [[Acacia laricina]]
* [[Acacia lasiocalyx]]
* [[Acacia latescens]]
* [[Acacia latifolia]]
* [[Acacia latior]]
* [[Acacia latipes]]
* [[Acacia latisepala]]
* [[Acacia latzii]]
* [[Acacia lauta]]
* [[Acacia lazaridis]]
* [[Acacia leeuweniana]]
* [[Acacia legnota]]
* [[Acacia leichhardtii]]
* [[Acacia leiocalyx]]
* [[Acacia leiophylla]]
* [[Acacia lentiginea]]
* [[Acacia leprosa]]
* [[Acacia leptalea]]
* [[Acacia leptocarpa]]
* [[Acacia leptoclada]]
* [[Acacia leptoloba]]
* [[Acacia leptoneura]]
* [[Acacia leptopetala]]
* [[Acacia leptophleba]]
* [[Acacia leptospermoides]]
* [[Acacia leptostachya]]
* [[Acacia leucoclada]]
* [[Acacia leucolobia]]
* [[Acacia levata]]
* [[Acacia ligulata]]
* [[Acacia ligustrina]]
* [[Acacia limbata]]
* [[Acacia linarioides]]
* [[Acacia linearifolia]]
* [[Acacia lineata]]
* [[Acacia lineolata]]
* [[Acacia linifolia]]
* [[Acacia linophylla]]
* [[Acacia lirellata]]
* [[Acacia littorea]]
* [[Acacia lobulata]]
* [[Acacia loderi]]
* [[Acacia longifolia]]
* [[Acacia longifolia var. sophorae]]
* [[Acacia longipedunculata]]
* [[Acacia longiphyllodinea]]
* [[Acacia longispicata]]
* [[Acacia longispinea]]
* [[Acacia longissima]]
* [[Acacia loroloba]]
* [[Acacia loxophylla]]
* [[Acacia lucasii]]
* [[Acacia lullfitziorum]]
* [[Acacia lumholtzii]]
* [[Acacia lunata]]
* [[Acacia lycopodiifolia]]
* [[Acacia lysiphloia]]

* [[Acacia mabellae]]
* [[Acacia macdonnelliensis]]
* [[Acacia mackeyana]]
* [[Acacia macnuttiana]]
* [[Acacia maconochieana]]
* [[Acacia macradenia]]
* [[Acacia macraneura]]
* [[Acacia maidenii]]
* [[Acacia maitlandii]]
* [[Acacia malloclada]]
* [[Acacia mangium]]
* [[Acacia manipularis]]
* [[Acacia maranoensis]]
* [[Acacia mariae]]
* [[Acacia marramamba]]
* [[Acacia masliniana]]
* [[Acacia mathuataensis]]
* [[Acacia matthewii]]
* [[Acacia maxwellii]]
* [[Acacia mearnsii]]
* [[Acacia megalantha]]
* [[Acacia meiantha]]
* [[Acacia meiosperma]]
* [[Acacia meisneri]]
* [[Acacia melanoxylon]]
* [[Acacia melleodora]]
* [[Acacia mellifera]]
* [[Acacia melvillei]]
* [[Acacia menzelii]]
* [[Acacia merinthophora]]
* [[Acacia merrallii]]
* [[Acacia merrickiae]]
* [[Acacia microbotrya]]
* [[Acacia microcalyx]]
* [[Acacia microcarpa]]
* [[Acacia microcybe]]
* [[Acacia microneura]]
* [[Acacia microsperma]]
* [[Acacia midgleyi]]
* [[Acacia mimica]]
* [[Acacia mimula]]
* [[Acacia minutifolia]]
* [[Acacia minutissima]]
* [[Acacia minyura]]
* [[Acacia mitchellii]]
* [[Acacia mitodes]]
* [[Acacia mollifolia]]
* [[Acacia montana]]
* [[Acacia monticola]]
* [[Acacia mooreana]]
* [[Acacia mountfordiae]]
* [[Acacia mucronata]]
* [[Acacia muelleriana]]
* [[Acacia mulganeura]]
* [[Acacia multisiliqua]]
* [[Acacia multispicata]]
* [[Acacia multistipulosa]]
* [[Acacia muriculata]]
* [[Acacia murrayana]]
* [[Acacia mutabilis]]
* [[Acacia myrtifolia]]

* [[Acacia nana]]
* [[Acacia nanodealbata]]
* [[Acacia nanopravissima]]
* [[Acacia nematophylla]]
* [[Acacia neriifolia]]
* [[Acacia nervosa]]
* [[Acacia nesophila]]
* [[Acacia neurocarpa]]
* [[Acacia neurophylla]]
* [[Acacia newmanii]]
* [[Acacia nigripilosa]]
* [[Acacia nilotica]]
* [[Acacia nitidula]]
* [[Acacia nivea]]
* [[Acacia nodiflora]]
* [[Acacia notabilis]]
* [[Acacia nova-anglica]]
* [[Acacia nubica]]
* [[Acacia nuperrima]]
* [[Acacia nyssophylla]]

* [[Acacia obesa]]
* [[Acacia obliquinervia]]
* [[Acacia obovata]]
* [[Acacia obtecta]]
* [[Acacia obtriangularis]]
* [[Acacia obtusata]]
* [[Acacia obtusifolia]]
* [[Acacia octonervia]]
* [[Acacia oerfota]]
* [[Acacia oldfieldii]]
* [[Acacia olgana]]
* [[Acacia oligoneura]]
* [[Acacia olsenii]]
* [[Acacia ommatosperma]]
* [[Acacia oncinocarpa]]
* [[Acacia oncinophylla]]
* [[Acacia ophiolithica]]
* [[Acacia oraria]]
* [[Acacia orbifolia]]
* [[Acacia orites]]
* [[Acacia orthocarpa]]
* [[Acacia orthotricha]]
* [[Acacia orthotropica]]
* [[Acacia oshanesii]]
* [[Acacia oswaldii]]
* [[Acacia oxycedrus]]
* [[Acacia oxycedrus x sophorae]]
* [[Acacia oxyclada]]

* [[Acacia pachyacra]]
* [[Acacia pachycarpa]]
* [[Acacia pachyphylla]]
* [[Acacia pachypoda]]
* [[Acacia palustris]]
* [[Acacia papulosa]]
* [[Acacia papyrocarpa]]
* [[Acacia paradoxa]]
* [[Acacia paraneura]]
* [[Acacia parramattensis]]
* [[Acacia parvipinnula]]
* [[Acacia pataczekii]]
* [[Acacia patagiata]]
* [[Acacia paula]]
* [[Acacia pedina]]
* [[Acacia pedleyi]]
* [[Acacia pellita]]
* [[Acacia pelophila]]
* [[Acacia pendula]]
* [[Acacia penninervis]]
* [[Acacia perangusta]]
* [[Acacia peregrinalis]]
* [[Acacia perpusilla]]
* [[Acacia perryi]]
* [[Acacia petraea]]
* [[Acacia peuce]]
* [[Acacia phacelia]]
* [[Acacia phaeocalyx]]
* [[Acacia pharangites]]
* [[Acacia phasmoides]]
* [[Acacia phlebocarpa]]
* [[Acacia phlebopetala]]
* [[Acacia phlebophylla]]
* [[Acacia pickardii]]
* [[Acacia piligera]]
* [[Acacia pilligaensis]]
* [[Acacia pinguiculosa]]
* [[Acacia pinguifolia]]
* [[Acacia platycarpa]]
* [[Acacia plautella]]
* [[Acacia plectocarpa]]
* [[Acacia podalyriifolia]]
* [[Acacia polifolia]]
* [[Acacia poliochroa]]
* [[Acacia polyacantha]]
* [[Acacia polyadenia]]
* [[Acacia polybotrya]]
* [[Acacia polystachya]]
* [[Acacia porcata]]
* [[Acacia praelongata]]
* [[Acacia praemorsa]]
* [[Acacia praetermissa]]
* [[Acacia prainii]]
* [[Acacia pravifolia]]
* [[Acacia pravissima]]
* [[Acacia prismifolia]]
* [[Acacia pritzeliana]]
* [[Acacia producta]]
* [[Acacia profusa]]
* [[Acacia proiantha]]
* [[Acacia prolata]]
* [[Acacia prominens]]
* [[Acacia provincialis]]
* [[Acacia pruinocarpa]]
* [[Acacia pruinosa]]
* [[Acacia pteraneura]]
* [[Acacia pterocaulon]]
* [[Acacia ptychoclada]]
* [[Acacia ptychophylla]]
* [[Acacia pubescens]]
* [[Acacia pubicosta]]
* [[Acacia pubifolia]]
* [[Acacia pubirhachis]]
* [[Acacia pulviniformis]]
* [[Acacia puncticulata]]
* [[Acacia purpureopetala]]
* [[Acacia pusilla]]
* [[Acacia pustula]]
* [[Acacia pycnantha]]
* [[Acacia pycnocephala]]
* [[Acacia pycnostachya]]
* [[Acacia pygmaea]]
* [[Acacia pyrifolia]]

* [[Acacia quadrilateralis]]
* [[Acacia quadrimarginea]]
* [[Acacia quadrisulcata]]
* [[Acacia quinquenervia]]
* [[Acacia quornensis]]

* [[Acacia racospermoides]]
* [[Acacia ramiflora]]
* [[Acacia ramulosa]]
* [[Acacia recurvata]]
* [[Acacia redolens]]
* [[Acacia rendlei]]
* [[Acacia repanda]]
* [[Acacia repens]]
* [[Acacia resinicostata]]
* [[Acacia resinimarginea]]
* [[Acacia resinistipulea]]
* [[Acacia resinosa]]
* [[Acacia restiacea]]
* [[Acacia retinervis]]
* [[Acacia retinodes]]
* [[Acacia retivenea]]
* [[Acacia retrorsa]]
* [[Acacia rhamphophylla]]
* [[Acacia rhetinocarpa]]
* [[Acacia rhigiophylla]]
* [[Acacia rhodophloia]]
* [[Acacia rhodoxylon]]
* [[Acacia riceana]]
* [[Acacia richardsii]]
* [[Acacia richii]]
* [[Acacia ridleyana]]
* [[Acacia rigens]]
* [[Acacia rigescens]]
* [[Acacia rigida]]
* [[Acacia rigidula]]
* [[Acacia rivalis]]
* [[Acacia robeorum]]
* [[Acacia robiniae]]
* [[Acacia rossei]]
* [[Acacia rostellata]]
* [[Acacia rostellifera]]
* [[Acacia rostriformis]]
* [[Acacia rothii]]
* [[Acacia roycei]]
* [[Acacia rubida]]
* [[Acacia rubricaulis]]
* [[Acacia rubricola]]
* [[Acacia rupicola]]
* [[Acacia ruppii]]
* [[Acacia ryaniana]]

* [[Acacia sabulosa]]
* [[Acacia saliciformis]]
* [[Acacia salicina]]
* [[Acacia saligna]]
* [[Acacia saxatilis]]
* [[Acacia saxicola]]
* [[Acacia scabra]]
* [[Acacia scalena]]
* [[Acacia scalpelliformis]]
* [[Acacia schinoides]]
* [[Acacia sciophanes]]
* [[Acacia scirpifolia]]
* [[Acacia scleroclada]]
* [[Acacia sclerophylla]]
* [[Acacia sclerosperma]]
* [[Acacia scopulorum]]
* [[Acacia seclusa]]
* [[Acacia sedifolia]]
* [[Acacia semiaurea]]
* [[Acacia semibinervia]]
* [[Acacia semicircinalis]]
* [[Acacia semilunata]]
* [[Acacia semirigida]]
* [[Acacia semitrullata]]
* [[Acacia senegal]]
* [[Acacia sericata]]
* [[Acacia sericocarpa]]
* [[Acacia sericoflora]]
* [[Acacia sericophylla]]
* [[Acacia serpentinicola]]
* [[Acacia sertiformis]]
* [[Acacia sessilis]]
* [[Acacia sessilispica]]
* [[Acacia setulifera]]
* [[Acacia shirleyi]]
* [[Acacia shuttleworthii]]
* [[Acacia sibilans]]
* [[Acacia sibina]]
* [[Acacia sibirica]]
* [[Acacia siculiformis]]
* [[Acacia sieberiana]]
* [[Acacia signata]]
* [[Acacia silvestris]]
* [[Acacia simplicifolia]]
* [[Acacia simmonsiana]]
* [[Acacia simsii]]
* [[Acacia simulans]]
* [[Acacia singula]]
* [[Acacia smeringa]]
* [[Acacia solenota]]
* [[Acacia sorophylla]]
* [[Acacia spania]]
* [[Acacia sparsiflora]]
* [[Acacia spathulifolia]]
* [[Acacia speckii]]
* [[Acacia spectabilis]]
* [[Acacia spectra]]
* [[Acacia sphacelata]]
* [[Acacia sphenophylla]]
* [[Acacia spilleriana]]
* [[Acacia spinescens]]
* [[Acacia spinosissima]]
* [[Acacia spirorbis]]
* [[Acacia splendens]]
* [[Acacia spondylophylla]]
* [[Acacia spongolitica]]
* [[Acacia spooneri]]
* [[Acacia sporadica]]
* [[Acacia squamata]]
* [[Acacia stanleyi]]
* [[Acacia startii]]
* [[Acacia steedmanii]]
* [[Acacia stellaticeps]]
* [[Acacia stenophylla]]
* [[Acacia stenoptera]]
* [[Acacia stereophylla]]
* [[Acacia stictophylla]]
* [[Acacia stigmatophylla]]
* [[Acacia stipuligera]]
* [[Acacia stipulosa]]
* [[Acacia storyi]]
* [[Acacia striatifolia]]
* [[Acacia stricta]]
* [[Acacia strongylophylla]]
* [[Acacia suaveolens]]
* [[Acacia subcaerulea]]
* [[Acacia subcontorta]]
* [[Acacia subflexuosa]]
* [[Acacia sublanata]]
* [[Acacia subporosa]]
* [[Acacia subrigida]]
* [[Acacia subsessilis]]
* [[Acacia subternata]]
* [[Acacia subtessarogona]]
* [[Acacia subtiliformis]]
* [[Acacia subtilinervis]]
* [[Acacia subulata]]
* [[Acacia sulcata]]
* [[Acacia sulcaticaulis]]
* [[Acacia symonii]]
* [[Acacia synantha]]
* [[Acacia synchronicia]]
* [[Acacia synoria]]

* [[Acacia tabula]]
* [[Acacia tarculensis]]
* [[Acacia telmica]]
* [[Acacia tenuinervis]]
* [[Acacia tenuior]]
* [[Acacia tenuispica]]
* [[Acacia tenuissima]]
* [[Acacia tephrina]]
* [[Acacia teretifolia]]
* [[Acacia terminalis]]
* [[Acacia tessellata]]
* [[Acacia tetanophylla]]
* [[Acacia tetragonocarpa]]
* [[Acacia tetragonophylla]]
* [[Acacia tetraneura]]
* [[Acacia tetraptera]]
* [[Acacia thoma]]
* [[Acacia thomsonii]]
* [[Acacia tindaleae]]
* [[Acacia tingoorensis]]
* [[Acacia tolmerensis]]
* [[Acacia toondulya]]
* [[Acacia torringtonensis]]
* [[Acacia torticarpa]]
* [[Acacia tortilis]]
* [[Acacia torulosa]]
* [[Acacia trachycarpa]]
* [[Acacia trachyphloia]]
* [[Acacia translucens]]
* [[Acacia tratmaniana]]
* [[Acacia trigonophylla]]
* [[Acacia trinalis]]
* [[Acacia trinervata]]
* [[Acacia trineura]]
* [[Acacia triptera]]
* [[Acacia triptycha]]
* [[Acacia triquetra]]
* [[Acacia tropica]]
* [[Acacia truculenta]]
* [[Acacia trudgeniana]]
* [[Acacia trulliformis]]
* [[Acacia truncata]]
* [[Acacia tuberculata]]
* [[Acacia tumida]]
* [[Acacia tysonii]]

* [[Acacia ulicifolia]]
* [[Acacia ulicina]]
* [[Acacia uliginosa]]
* [[Acacia umbellata]]
* [[Acacia umbraculiformis]]
* [[Acacia uncifera]]
* [[Acacia uncifolia]]
* [[Acacia uncinata]]
* [[Acacia uncinella]]
* [[Acacia undoolyana]]
* [[Acacia undosa]]
* [[Acacia undulifolia]]
* [[Acacia unguicula]]
* [[Acacia unifissilis]]
* [[Acacia urophylla]]

* [[Acacia validinervia]]
* [[Acacia vassalii]]
* [[Acacia venulosa]]
* [[Acacia verniciflua]]
* [[Acacia veronica]]
* [[Acacia verricula]]
* [[Acacia verticillata]]
* [[Acacia vestita]]
* [[Acacia victoriae]]
* [[Acacia vincentii]]
* [[Acacia viscidula]]
* [[Acacia viscifolia]]
* [[Acacia vittata]]
* [[Acacia volubilis]]

* [[Acacia walkeri]]
* [[Acacia wanyu]]
* [[Acacia wardellii]]
* [[Acacia warramaba]]
* [[Acacia wattsiana]]
* [[Acacia webbii]]
* [[Acacia websteri]]
* [[Acacia wetarensis]]
* [[Acacia whibleyana]]
* [[Acacia whitei]]
* [[Acacia wickhamii]]
* [[Acacia wilcoxii]]
* [[Acacia wilhelmiana]]
* [[Acacia willdenowiana]]
* [[Acacia williamsiana]]
* [[Acacia williamsonii]]
* [[Acacia willingii]]
* [[Acacia wilsonii]]
* [[Acacia wiseana]]
* [[Acacia woodmaniorum]]

* [[Acacia xanthina]]
* [[Acacia xanthocarpa]]
* [[Acacia xanthophloea]]
* [[Acacia xerophila]]
* [[Acacia xiphophylla]]

* [[Acacia yirrkallensis]]
* [[Acacia yorkrakinensis]]

* [[Acacia zatrichota]]

* [[Anadenanthera colubrina]]
* [[Anadenanthera excelsa]]
* [[Anadenanthera macrocarpa]]
* [[Anadenanthera peregrina]]
* [[Anthirhea lucida]]
* [[Arundo donax]]
* [[Banisteriopsis caapi]] (Caapi, Ayahuasca)
* [[Brugmansia spp]]
* [[Datura spp.]]
* [[Delosperma acuminatum]]
* [[Delosperma cooperi]]
* [[Delosperma ecklonis]]
* [[Delosperma esterhuyseniae]]
* [[Delosperma harazianum]]
* [[Delosperma hirtum]]
* [[Delosperma klinghardiana]]
* [[Delosperma lydenbergense]]
* [[Delosperma pageanum]]
* [[Delosperma pargamentaceum]]
* [[Delosperma tradescantioides]]
* [[Desmanthus illinoensis]]
* [[Desmanthus leptolobus]]
* [[Desmanthus velutinus]]
* [[Desmodium caudatum]]
* [[Desmodium gangeticum]]
* [[Desmodium gyrans]]
* [[Desmodium pulchellum]]
* [[Desmodium triflorum]]
* [[Diplopterys cabrerana]] (Chaliponga)
* [[Evodia rutaecarpa]]
* [[Justicia pectoralis]]
* [[Lespedeza bicolor]]
* [[Limona acidissima]
* [[Lophophora Williamsii]] (Peyote)
* [[Mimosa hostilis]]
* [[Mimosa ophthalmocentra]]
* [[Mimosa scabrella]
* [[Mimosa verrucosa]]
* [[Mucuna pruriens]]
* [[Osteophloem platyspermum]]
* [[Pandanus utilis]]
* [[Pandanus odoratissima]]
* [[Petalostylis labicheoides]]
* [[Phalaris aquatica]]
* [[Phalaris arundinacea]] (Reed canary grass)
* [[Phalaris brachystachys]]
* [[Phalaris canariensis]]
* [[Phalaris minor]]
* [[Phalaris paradoxa]]
* [[Phalaris stenoptera]]
* [[Phalaris tuberosa]]
* [[Peganum harmala]] (Syrian rue)
* [[Phragmites australis]]
* [[Psychotria viridis]] (Chacruna)
* [[Psychotria carthaginensis]]
* [[Psychotria horizontalis]]
* [[Psychotria marginala]]
* [[Psychotria poeppigiana]]
* [[Psychotria pychotriaefolia]]
* [[Psychotria stenostachya]]
* [[Salvia divinorum]]
* [[Tabernanthe Iboga]] (Iboga)
* [[Testulea gabonensis]]
* [[Trichocereus Pachanoi]]
* [[Trichocereus Peruvianus]]
* [[Vepris ampody]]
* [[Virola calophylla]]
* [[Virola calophylloidea]]
* [[Virola carinata]]
* [[Virola divergens]]
* [[Virola elongata]]
* [[Virola melinonii]]
* [[Virola multinervia]]
* [[Virola pavonis]]
* [[Virola peruviana]]
* [[Virola rufuta]]
* [[Virola sebifera]]
* [[Virola theiodora]]
* [[Virola venosa]]
* [[Zanthoxylum arborescens]]
* [[Zanthoxylum procerum]]

= Fungus =

* [[Psilocybe cubensis]]

= Other =

*

FAQ - DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide

2014-04-24T13:22:39Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Vaporgenie */

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of the 'DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide'<ref>DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide
[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6341]</ref>.}}

== DMT overview ==

=== What is DMT, Where do I learn the basics? ===

DMT is a naturally occuring substance, present in trace amounts in normal human metabolism (and its purpouse is unknown, check question [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Is_it_true_the_pineal_gland_produces_DMT_naturally_and_is_involved_in_dreaming.3F 2.1] , as well as in a variety of plants and animals.

It can be extracted from some of these plants and smoked for some very strong psychedelic/entheogenic effects lasting 10 minutes. It can also be taken orally, but we have an enzyme (MAO) in our stomach that destroys dmt if taken orally, so for taking orally DMT must be acompanied by a substance that inhibits this enzyme (MAOI, or MAO Inhibitor), which is also present in some other plants.

Ayahuasca, a sacred drink used by indigenous people of the Amazon, is an example of a drink made from a dmt-containing plant (Psychotria viridis), together with a MAOI containing plant (Banisteriopsis caapi), that is drank orally for a psychedelic/entheogenic experience lasting around 4 hours.

When smoking, we do not need to use MAOI because we do not have MAOs in our lungs. Nevertheless, some people like to also ingest MAOIs before vaporizing DMT, or vaporizing a MAOI together with the DMT (such as in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ_-_DMT_Frequently_Asked_Questions_and_Troubleshooting_Guide#What_is_changa_.2F_How_to_make_changa_.3F changa]), to make the experience last longer.

For learning more about DMT, this whole webpage is dedicated to it. Here's a few links

==== Links ====

* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dimethyltryptamine Wikipedia DMT Link]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/ The Dmt Nexus Wiki]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ Frequently Asked Questions]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=forum Main Dmt Nexus Forum]

=== Are there different types of DMT? ===

DMT can be in salt form or in freebase form. A salt form means the DMT is attached to an acid molecule. DMT is naturally in salt form in the plants because of plant acids (for example dmt tannate or oxalate due to tannic or oxalic acid being present in some plants). When people extract DMT, they can make it in freebase form to smoke, because DMT in salt form can't be smoked, it has high boiling point and breaks down instead of vaporizing efficiently. Some salt forms like DMT fumarate can even be toxic to smoke due to creation of maleic anhydride during combustion.

Appart from being naturally in brews made of DMT containing plants like ayahuasca, DMT can also be made into salt for, for example DMT fumarate, when people extract it, because DMT fumarate is stable and can be stored for long, and it can be taken orally or intranasally. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods this] for more info. Regarding dosages in different salt forms, one can read [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this] thread. Each salt form of DMT have their own weight depending on the acid molecule weight (for example DMT fumarate's weight is around 76% DMT, 24% fumaric acid), so dosages could be adjusted proportionately to the amount of DMT when ingesting, but since each person is differently sensitive to DMT and since salt form may be a bit more effective to ingest orally, this "salt weight calculation" is not really necessary for DMT, one can just ingest according to [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 these] recommendations, starting low for first time, and adjusting according to own sensitivity and batch the next time.

There are other molecules which have the DMT structure built into them but they are not DMT, they have structural modifications, for example 4-HO-DMT also known as psilocin and 4-PO-DMT, psilocybin, the active compounds in mushrooms, which are different molecules altogether with their own particular effects. Small modifications in molecules can completely change effects. So psilocybin, psilocin, 5-MeO DMT, and 5-HO-DMT (bufotenine), plus others, are all different molecules, they are NOT the same as DMT. Each of them has different effects, pharmacology, etc etc. On the other hand, DMT freebase or DMT in salt form (tannate, acetate, fumarate) are all DMT.

== DMT Chemistry and Body ==

=== Is it true the pineal gland produces DMT naturally and is involved in dreaming and death? What does DMT do in the body? ===

At this point there is no evidence to support the claim that DMT is produced in the pineal or brain. It is a speculation raised by Dr Rick Strassman due to his previous interest in the pineal. So far in humans, the key enzymes necessary for this have [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=5549 not been found present in the human brain], therefore it seem more likely it is produced elsewhere in the body, though some recent research has shown in primates these enzymes are present in pineal gland. In any case nothing is really proven yet so we must avoid making claims before more data comes in.

The supposed connection of DMT and dreams, and the idea that DMT is released when we die, both are speculation with no real evidence to back them up.

It IS proven, though, for decades already, that DMT is produced in the human body and is present at all times in trace amounts, for unknown functions (which could be several functions, see last link below).

==== Links ====

*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18834 Zero proof DMT is made in the brain]
*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=295746#post295746 I dislike the "DMT is responsible for your dreams" theory]
*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18394 Rethinking DMT and the Pineal Gland]
*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18448 The functions of DMT in our body: If DMT would be a neurotransmitter]

=== Is DMT dangerous? ===

Researches have been made showing the relative safety of dmt. It does not cause physical damage, addiction, and any tolerance disappears very quickly. Ayahuasca, the dmt-containing brew from the Amazon, has been studied by multidisciplinary groups in Brazil and other countries and was shown that in a careful context, it presents no negative cognitive/psychiatric/social consequences, even in adolescents.

There is yet little research into vaporized dmt, but there seems to be no sign that it is in any way more dangerous physically than other administration forms. There are no reported deaths from smoking DMT. Smoking it will not lead to a dangerous overdose because the onset is so quick that one can only inhale a certain amount before being gone to ´hyperspace', without being able to smoke more until one is down again.

However:
* People with extreme heart or other conditions for whom strong emotions could be dangerous are contra-indicated, just like a roller coaster would for them.
* It is important to notice that with any psychedelic, it is a very powerful emotional/mental experience, so those with personal or family psychiatric history, unstable emotionally or going through some very difficult moments in life should be extremely careful.
* Also, it is possible that during the experience, one temporarily loses orientation in the consensus reality, so smoking/ingesting next to a cliff, sharp objects, etc, is not a good idea. BE IN A PHYSICALLY SAFE ENVIRONMENT!
* DO NOT use MAOIs (so for example an ayahuasca brew) together with stimulants or SSRI medication

Appart from that, there are psychological issues to be considered. Please read the health and safety section linked below, as well as the scientific articles also linked below.

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety Health And Safety Section]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1441 Scientific Articles on DMT/Ayahuasca/Psychedelics]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4400 Long term effects of smoking DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5843 DMT After-Effects]

=== Is a MAOI diet / Ayahuasca fasting necessary? What kind of dangers are there with medication interaction? ===

Unlike some pharmaceutical MAOI, the Harmalas, alkaloids present in the caapi vine and syrian rue are reversible inhibitors of MAO-A, while Tyramine, the component in some food that could cause problems in big amounts, is eliminated partly by MAO-A and but also partly by the intact MAO-B ([http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 source] ). Also for some pharmacological reason as shown in [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_fig9big.jpg this] diagram, tyramine can still be partly metabolized by MAO-A even during the harmala effects.

In other words, in terms of '''food''' interaction, the danger with reversible MAOI use (in for example ayahuasca or pharmahuasca with harmalas) and food interaction is very reduced. The necessity of the very strict dieting for ayahuasca with extensive list of what one must absolutely not eat is an exaggeration, though it is advised to eat light because extreme amounts of tyramine in some specific foods could theoretically still be a potential problem.

There seem to be no reports of actual life-threatening events with tyramine-containing foods and harmalas. There are even people that purposely ate tyramine-containing foods with no ill effects, but there have also been reports of negative symptoms such as very strong headaches and negative body load when mixing a heavy food consumption before/during/after harmala consumption. Several other variables may also be involved that are unrelated to tyramine and harmala-food interaction (variables such as for example exhaustion from the trip, vasodilation, the body/ayahuasca telling the person to 'eat better' in general, etc). Headaches seem specially common when mixing beer and harmalas.

In any case, it is generally considered common sense to eat light before and after the use of ayahuasca and analogues (and psychedelics in general). Just follow your good sense and you should be fine. To eer on the side of caution, the food to avoid eating (or over-eating) is aged or fermented food specially aged cheese, fermented or smoked meat (fish included) and soy products (though some soy products have also been found to have little tyramine content). Beer should also be avoided as some people have experienced negative interaction between MAOIs and beer. Apart from that, there are no real restrictions, eat lightly and all should be good :)

In relation to how long to wait after the last food before taking ayahuasca, this is very personal. Some like to have empty stomach and be fasting for 6 or more hours, but this is not necessary, and others feel it is even negative to fast for so long, because a too empty stomach might make one very tired during the ceremony, specialy at the end, and can also make purging a specially difficult or uncomfortable experience. Some consider better to have eaten something light (like some fruits or cereal or light sandwhich) a couple of hours before ingesting ayahuasca/analogues.

Remember: With the exception of moclobemide, which stands in the same category as harmalas as far as reversibility and food interaction goes, avoid all other pharmaceutical MAOIs !! Pharmaceutical irreversible MAOIs are VERY dangerous to take without taking strong precautions with food and drug interaction.

'''What IS dangerous is interaction between any MAOIs (including harmalas) and stimulants or some medication''' such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_serotonin_reuptake_inhibitor SSRI] medication such as prozac, or stimulants such as amphetamines or others. If you're taking SSRI's, do not consume MAOIs!! Do not mix stimulants with MAOIs either! Mixing stimulants/SSRIs with MAOIs can cause Serotonin Syndrome which may lead to convulsions or even death. For pharmaceuticals and substances that should NEVER be taken when consuming harmalas, check [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 1] and [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 2]

==== Links ====
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29131 Do you experience tyramine interaction with harmalas?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5711 Will smoked Rue cause MAOI?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5398 Think iv cracked it]
* [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=tyramine%20food%20table&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CFMQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fddr.nal.usda.gov%2Fbitstream%2F10113%2F7351%2F1%2FIND43817287.pdf&ei=PpvsT8zAEsXAhAehj-nPBQ&usg=AFQjCNGKR57Q_VTqzOjKxfvKbu0kDTB8Ng&cad=rja Scientific publication on food containing tyramine]
* [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 scientific publication on interaction of MAOIs and tyramine]

== DMT and Society ==

=== Is dmt legal? ===

Posession and sales of DMT in its pure extracted/synthesized form is illegal, schedule 1 in USA and controlled by United Nations and can land you in jail if found in most countries.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/dmt/dmt_law.shtml Erowid DMT Law Vault]

=== '''Are the natural ingredients such as mimosa, and ayahuasca, illegal?''' ===

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=21527 On the Legal Status of DMT Source Plants in the US (with a discussion of the religious use defense)]'''

==== Links ====

* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/ayahuasca/ayahuasca_law.shtml Erowid Ayahuasca Law Vault]
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/plants/mimosa/mimosa_law.shtml Erowid Mimosa Law Vault]

=== Whats the price of dmt / Can I trade dmt? ===

'''[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Attitude_Page#No_discussion_on_selling.2C_buying.2C_sourcing.2C_acquiring.2C_pricing.2C_trading.2C_mentioning_pending_deliveries_or_smuggling_of_drugs No discussion on selling, buying, sourcing, acquiring, pricing, trading, mentioning pending deliveries or smuggling of drugs].'''

'''DO NOT BUY OR SELL DMT!''' We at the nexus are against selling/profiting with this incredible substance. We do not know and we do not want to know how much it costs in the street, we do not want it to be sold on the streets! This is not only disrespectful and shows a lack of understanding about the power of this substance, but its also a liability for the whole community. Dealing/trading DMT can attract the attention of authorities and create a problem not only for yourself but for all others in the community.

'''Talking about DMT sales or trade will result in suspension from the forum!'''

All the reasons why we dont believe in it are listed in the thread below

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3414 Street Value of DMT (and why you should never sell it) ]

== DMT Extraction ==

=== Where to start? ===

There are several ways of extracting DMT, and different ways use different chemicals and take different time. It is recommended that before embarking on extracting, one reads up at least a couple of different teks (link on the bottom) to understand the processes.

The basics of an extraction is:

DMT is present in many plant materials and can be isolated through simple processes. Most commonly used plant is [[Mimosa hostilis]] root bark, but there are other plants with good alkaloid profile such as certain Acacias and certain strains of [[Phalaris spp.]]

DMT in an acidic solution is in salt form and therefore water soluble, while DMT in a basic solution becomes a freebase and not water soluble but rather soluble in non-polar solvents (like limonene, naphtha, xylene, etc). This works similarly to most other alkaloids, with a few exceptions, for example harmalas freebase dont dissolve in the solvents mentioned above, but when you add a base to a solution containing harmalas, they just precipitate and you can filter them.

Back to DMT, non-polar solvents separate from water like oil, it stays as a layer on top. By playing with the pH (adding an acid or a base) you make the dmt move from one place to the other while most of other impurities dont, and then you separate the layers by pippeting/separatory funnel/decanting, and then retrieve the dmt from the non-polar solvent by evaporating it or freeze-precipitating (putting it in a closed container in the freezer, and as the temperature goes down the solubility of dmt in the solvent diminishes, so after some hours dmt precipitates and can be retrieved). There are differences depending on the process of extraction you use (for example limonene can't be evaporated and neither freeze precipitated, it's usually salted, as described in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB], but that is, in a very general way, how it works.

There are some new developed teks for extracting dmt with food-safe materials and/or no petro-chemical solvents, such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] , [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Nontoxic_Approach_to_Spice_Extraction Amor Fati's approach], or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek Q21Q21's extraction tek]. The biggest advantage is, as said, the use of relatively non-toxic material and no petrochemicals but instead solvents such as limonene, which is basically pure orange oil. The disadvantage is that to retrieve the dmt from limonene, you cannot evaporate it (as limonene doesnt evaporate cleanly, it leaves gooey residues), and freeze precipitation also doesnt work (as even in freeze temperatures, dmt is still too soluble in it so it doesnt precipitate), so there are 2 extra steps, which are to 'salt out' the limonene by mixing it with an acidic solution, evaporating that solution and then freebasing the resulting product if one wants to smoke it (or just keeping the salt for storage or oral consumption), as explained in the teks mentioned above. These steps are just as easy as any other step done in the earlier steps of the extraction but the fact that its two extra steps means some extra time and work which some people might not want.

There are also the standard STB (straight-to-base) teks that have been used a lot before the food-safe/limo teks, the two most common being [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Noman%27s_tek Noman's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Lazyman%27s_tek Lazyman Tek]. The mimosa (or whatever plant material extracted) is put straight in a basic solution from the beginning, with no acid-adding step, and hence the name. The advantage of STBs generally being that they need less steps, maybe simpler for beginners, and can usually be quicker, and the main disadvantage being the amount of lye/caustic soda they require (lye being dangerous if it spills because it causes serious chemical burns and could make one blind, though if done correctly it will not be on your final product. Also disadvantage of using much lye is it is watched in many places due to being used in meth production, so it might be suspicious to buy it, or even impossible to find, specially in some specific places of USA). Another possible disadvantage of STB teks is some people claim the final product is not as clean, its more yellow. Yellow dmt isnt necessarily a problem, though, some people even prefer it. Also, one can easily do a recrystalization (look below in the FAQ for explanation) which will effectively clean up the final product quickly and with very little solvent needed.

Then there are the A/B extractions (acid/base), such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Vovin%27s_tek Vovin's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Marsofold%27s_tek Marsofold's tek]. As the name suggests, the plant material is first simmered/boiled in acid 3x, filtered and later the base is added. The advantage being that when one is adding the base and mixing the solvent, the solids were already removed after the acid step, making it easier to mix the solvent, and easier to discard everything later. Also the acid step allows one to do a defat, though usually that is considered a wasteful way of cleaning up because it needs a lot of solvent for removing a bit of fats, which can be accomplished more efficiently with a recrystallization on the final product. The disadvantage of an A/B is that it takes longer because of the initial acid step, and if one isnt thorough enough in this acid step one will lose a lot of actives when discarding the solids before moving on to the Base step.

==== Links ====

* [[:Category:Extraction_Tek|Extraction Teks]]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1085 DMT Extraction Overview]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=318336#post318336 Art of liquid-liquid extraction - The basics]

=== What is the best tek? ===

There is no "best" tek. All teks featured in the Nexus Wiki should result in similar final product purity and yields, if correctly performed. Each tek has it's own characteristics regarding chemicals used, how long it takes, how thorough it's explained, if it includes optional clean up steps or not, etc. That is why, before deciding on one tek, it's important to read all (or at least some of them), also the "where to start" question above and the extraction overview linked there. That way you will have a better understanding of the processes instead of just blindly following a tek, which means you'll probably be more succesful with whichever tek you decide to use in the end.

=== Is my solvent/chemical OK to use? ===

Before using any solvent, one must make sure it is a clean evaporating solvent with no toxic/residual additives (or for other non-volatile chemicals used, make sure it has no toxic/unwanted additives). Always:

* Read the ingredients on the solvent's or chemical's label. Make sure it is pure with nothing appart from the desired chemical (for example: Naphtha/Aliphatic hydrocarbons)
* Google "solventbrand solvent/chemical msds", searching the brand of the solvent you have access to, to see if it has an msds, which usually contains more in depth information on what the product contains. For example "merck acetone msds". Or alternatively:
* Check the webpage linked in [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=165091#post165091 this thread] and see if your solvent and its contents is featured there
* VERY IMPORTANT: Always do an evaporating test before using a solvent for the first time: Add a quantity of the solvent to a glass/pyrex/plate (do NOT use a cd) and let it evaporate. If it leaves residues of any kind, dont use it. If it evaporates cleanly, chances are its ok to use.
* Check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=14772 this] thread on whether your chem is ok to use or where to get the right chems.

=== Is this material or container ok to use with my chemicals? ===

The keyword to search is "Chemical compatibility" or "Chemical Resistance", plus the material and solvent/chemical you are looking for. Below are some good links to help you already find the information you want:

==== Link ====

* [http://www.nalgenelabware.com/techdata/chemical/index.asp Chemical Compatibility Search]
* [http://www.coleparmer.com/techinfo/chemcomp.asp Chemical compatibility database 2]
* [http://www.greenterpene.com/GreenTerpene_Product_Compatibility_s/48.htm Limonene compatibility chart]

=== Is plastic OK to use for my extraction? ===

In short, better not. If you are going to use anyways (NOT recommended), be sure to check what kind of plastic it is, and that its compatible with the chemicals used, as in the links of the previous question. But again, better not use plastic and only use glass, read links below for explanations why:

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=26324 Warning to those using plastic containers]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=340124#post340124 Using plastic for extractions]

=== What are the different bases one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired base.

* For [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH
* For [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH, Potassium Hydroxide/KOH
* For [[:Category:Dry_Technique|Dry tek]]: Calcium Hydroxide

=== What are the different acids one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired acid.

Plenty of different kinds of acid will work, but generally people preffer the first one on the following list:
* Vinegar (acetic acid)
* Lemon Juice (citric acid)
* Phosphoric Acid
* Hydrochloric Acid/HCl/Muriatic Acid.

NOTE: Sulfuric acid is not very well suited towards this extraction, as it reacts with lye to form sodium sulfate which is very poorly water-soluble. This may result in a generous white precipitate.

Reaction:

2NaOH + H2SO4 => Na2SO4 + 2H2O

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1556 Acids]

=== How can I convert sodium bicarbonate into sodium carbonate ===

==== Link ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Conversion_of_Sodium_Bicarbonate_into_Sodium_Carbonate Sodium bicarb -> carb conversion wiki]

=== How long each acid cook? ===

30 min - 2 hours cooks in a crockpot on low-medium (or just low fire on the stove). Some people avoid boiling and only simmer, but it appears DMT salts are very stable even at boil temperatures, so there doesnt seem to be diminishing yields when boiling. Also, it's important to stir once in a while during the acid cook.

=== How many acid cooks? ===

General consensus talks about 3 runs, 2 being minimum and 5 being over-careful.

=== Can I make one long cook instead of 3 shorter ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== Which ratio of MHRB:Lye:Water is the best? ===

For STBs, 1g MHRB:1g Lye:15ml Water is generally accepted as a good ratio. People have had success with significantly less water, but 15ml per g bark is a recommended amount because less than that might make the whole mixture too thick and it can make the separation of the solvent more difficult. Also, one actually needs much less lye but this amount of lye helps prevent emulsions forming as well helps break down the plant material so that dmt is more exposed to the water.

Alternatively, one can just add enough lye for the solution to turn completely black, and go ahead and extract. If emulsions form, add more lye. One does not need to worry about over-basifying, there's no such thing. Excess lye will stay behind in the water layer once you separate the solvent in any case.

=== Can I scale down/up the amounts stated in a tek if I want to extract different amounts of mimosa? ===

Yes, just scale the quantities proportionally according to your situation

=== Can I make one big pull instead of few smaller ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be significantly smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

==== Links ====

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== How big should the pulls be / How much to pre-evaporate before freezing? ===

100ml per pull per 200g bark (or a 2:1 ratio of bark:naphtha) is a sensible recomendation. More wont hurt but it will waste solvent as you will have to evaporate much afterwards. Less solvent per pull is even better, as long as you repeat more pulls to compensate. Sometimes people use more solvent than this recommended amount, like when for example if using this ratio in one's container the layers are too thin and it is hard to separate the solvent (though there are [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#How_to_pull_.2F_get_the_solvent_off_from_the_mix.3F tricks for better separation]). If the plan is to freeze precipitate and one uses more naphtha than the recommended amount, it is recommended to pre-evaporate the naphtha before freezing.

The amount that one should pre-evaporate depends of course on how much solvent used. The idea about pre-evap is that the solvent should be as saturated as possible with dmt so that most or all of it precipitates when put in the freezer. If its not saturated enough, then not much (or not at all) will precipitate. So if one used more than 3:1 ratio of bark:solvent, then pre-evaporate enough to reach the equivalent of it (so if one used, lets say, 100ml per 100g bark, pre evaporating till a third of original volume is recommended). [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=150095#post150095 Here's] an attempt to explain why not having it saturated enough may result in no or low yield

Later pulls will most likely be less saturated with dmt than first pulls, so for the later pulls (like lets say the 4th and 5th), it would be logical to pre-evaporate even more than the first pulls. In the example given above, instead of evaporating until a third of original volume, maybe one could evaporate until there is only a quarter or a fifth of original volume.

Some people gauge the amount of pre-evaporation by doing it until the solvent starts getting cloudy.

In any case, remember to re-use the naphtha after retrieving the crystals from precipitation, and/or evaporating it all the way down to see if there are any actives that remained in the naphtha after the freeze precipitation

If one is extracting a different plant or using a different solvent, then the ratio recommendation can change. Though in extractions that one salts out the solvent (like for example in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] and other limonene-based extractions), one can (and even should) use significantly more solvent, because all alkaloids will anyways be retrieved with the salting step.

=== The layers wont separate, what to do? ===

Possible fixes:
# Dont shake next time, if you did so! Instead, Stir/roll/turn upside down slowly, several times.
# Add more basic water/lye to the mix (either mix is not basic enough or too much plant matter for too little water)
# Make a warm water bath with the whole container (remember no fire sources near solvents, and leave top slightly open for preventing building up of pressure)
# Tapping on the side of the container/vibration (like sitting on top of washing mashine)
# Adding plenty of no-additives non-iodized salt (will make the water more polar and therefore chemically help in the separation)

====Links====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5866 Naphtha won' seperate?]

=== My Solvent is Brown/Dark, what to do ? ===

It happens for some people that after mixing the solvent with the mimosa solution, the naphtha picks up a lot of color and when the layers are separated, there is no emulsion but the naphtha is very dark, brown/burgundy. The exact reasons for this are still unknown, but it seems to happen mostly with STB extractions, powdered bark and heated pulls. It may be that there are microscopic suspended particles of the mimosa/black liquid which for some reason refuse to settle, but nobody yet knows for sure.

Considering this is not an emulsion issue (if so, it can be solved as stated [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#The_layers_wont_separate.2C_what_to_do.3F here]), this issue can be solved by:

1- Wait a few hours and see if the color settles and the solvent layer gets clearer.

2- Separate the pull as you would normally, and do a sodium carbonate wash (explanation also here in the FAQ). If the wash isnt sufficient to get the dark away, then :

3- Do a 'mini A/B' (mixing the separated dark solvent with vinegar 3x, separating the vinegar and discarding the solvent. Then basify the vinegar by adding lye, and pull with fresh solvent)

=== How to pull / get the solvent off from the mix? ===

* [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Each person finds his own way. One of the practical ways is to first, with HDPE or glass pipette/turkey baster/glass syringe, crudely separate the solvent and maybe a bit of the mimosa mix into a tall thin container. Then, with another pipette/glass syringe (or same one, washed), separate the solvent (it will be easier due to being thiner container, so solvent layer will be thicker than before) to the final container for evap or freeze precip. On this second separation, only pull out what you are sure you can do accurately, and the last bit throw back into the main container. Often people complain that the turkey baster wont hold the solvent well and will start releasing liquid as soon as you stop pulling. A [http://www.plastyshack.com/images/glass_syringe.jpg glass syringe] or pipette will work better, you can find them sold in lab/chem/medical supply stores or online in a variety of shops.

* [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Same as above, or also using a separatory funnel.

=== Should I wash my spice? ===

Washing spice has as a main function to eliminate any possible lye or other polar impurities (like droplets of the mimosa basic mix) from the final product, which might make the smoke harsher. Nevertheless, unless one was sloppy and some of the basic mimosa liquid came through to the solvent when separating, there should be nothing or very small amounts of it in your final product.

In any case if one feels better making sure the spice is cleaner (because we all know how important our mental state is in these experiences, even if its clean but if you're worried it might make the experience worse), or if one's spice is unusually harsh, then proceed to a sodium carbonate wash (DO NOT WASH WITH AMMONIA! Many people report losing yield with ammonia wash )

# Have your product still in the solvent, before evaporation/precipitation. If you have already in crystal form, redissolve in a naphtha/heptane/hexane.
# Add anywhere in between a pinch to 5 grams of sodium carbonate (yes, doesnt matter... All that is necessary is for it to be a basic solution) to 100ml clean water.
# Add your spice-containing solvent and the sodium carbonate solution together in a container. Mix/shake/whatever (emulsions will not form).
# Separate the solvent from the sodium carbonate solution using pippette/turkey baster/syphon/separatory funnel. One can repeat steps 2-4 if desired, but not strictly necessary
# Freeze precipitate or evaporate to retrieve your DMT

Remember that regardless of washing, its still very important to make sure there are no solvent traces in your spice, which can be done with thorough air drying, or redissolving your dmt in a non-toxic (or less toxic) solvent like ethanol, or pure IPA/Acetone, and evapping that again

=== No precipitation or low yield? ===

# Stir/mix and let separate the layers many times over a longer period of time before pulling the solvent out of the mix, dont just let it stand.
# Evap till theres only a quarter of the naphtha left and repeat freeze precip. If this doesnt help:
# Add more lye/base in the basic solution and try again, with small warm, thoroughly mixed pulls
# If its evapped and it seems like small amount of goo, it may actually be more than it seems because goo is heavier crystals. Recrystallize goo as FAQ instructions or infuse some herbs and weigh herbs before and after infusing to know exact yield.

Other possibilities:
* Bad mimosa/plant material
* Not the right solvent (if solvent has aromatics like xylene mixed in, it wont freeze precipitate, and will evap into a gooey product, mix of dmt and other plant impurities)

=== Melting/dissapearing crystals after freeze precipitation / Whats the best way to retrieve crystals after freezing? ===

This usually happens because of remaining solvent residues warming up and redissolving the crystals.

A trick to work around that is to freeze precipitate for a day or so (if you already have the melted crystals, then redissolve them in small amounts of warm naphtha and back into the freezer), and after crystals have precipitated, take it out of the freezer, pour the naphtha off (through coffee filter just in case any crystals are not stuck to the container), close the container and put it upside down in the freezer for some more hours. This way, any remaining naphtha trapped inside the crystals will drop off to the lid of the container on the bottom.

So after those few hours, take out out of the freezer, opening the lid still upside down so the naphtha drops off, and then you can scrape the drier crystals, put them on top of a coffee filter or on a plate/petri dish to finish air drying, and voilá.

The container used for precipitation is ideally something with a lid that closes well, like a mason jar, and that the edges and walls are straight so you can scrape it off more easily. Scrape as much as you can of the dmt, and whatever is left inside, leave it and reuse the container for the next precipitation, or if its the last precipitation of the extraction, you can use some alcohol (or even naphtha, if its clean evapping naphtha) to pick the last bits up and evaporate in a dish or easy to scrape flat-bottom wide container.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=2290 DMT crystals melting]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=72767#post72767 Question about freeze precipitation times]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3519 Yellow goo. Won't crystallize]

=== Only getting goo with Acacia extraction ===

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=39030 Getting crystals with Acacia confusa]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=440164 Enough GOO questions...]

=== How to safely heat a solvent ? ===

With the solvent safely stored far away, boil some water with any method you want. Once water is boiled, turn off heat source, get the solvent, put it in a glass and submerge the bottom of the glass on a pot containing your recently boiled water. In some seconds/minutes your solvent should be warm and you can use it for recrystallizing or pulling. NEVER warm up solvents directly with a heat source, specially no gas/open fire but even do not use electrical equipment unless it's a safe laboratory hotplate made for such purposes that will guarantee not to create sparks.

=== How does one recrystallize? ===

1- Boil some water. Turn off the fire.

2- Add your impure spice to a shotglass (weigh it before to know the amount).

3- Add around 20-30ml of naphtha/heptane/hexane per gram of impure spice to the shotglass.

4- submerge the bottom of the glass in the water. Leave it standing and/or stir it around a little bit. Most of the spice should redissolve in a few minutes, but probably a layer of goo will stay on the bottom.

5-Decant or pippette your naphtha away from the goo, put this naphtha in a clean container, close it, and into the freezer overnight for freeze precipitation. Alternatively, instead of freezing, if one wants to grow large crystals, put in a container with the lid semi-closed and/or in a place with very little air circulation, so that the naphtha evaporates very slowly. The slower the evap, the larger the crystal growth.

Its possible small amount of spice is still in the goo, so you can add another 5 or 10ml to the shotglass with the goo to pick up the last bits of dmt. This second pull will be more impure as it will pick some oils up, so freeze precipitate it separately. The goo can then be discarded

If one doesnt have a scale or for some reason cant weigh the spice, warm up a quantity of naphtha in a shotglass without the dmt and slowly add small quantities of the warm naphtha to the container containing dmt while stiring, until most dmt dissolved but a bottom layer of goo remains. Then follow step 5.
http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Can_I_make_one_long_cook_instead_of_3_shorter_ones.3F

==== Links ====

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=10545#post10545 Glass Shard Re-Crystallization Pictorial]

=== How many times can I reuse my solvent? ===

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=335995#post335995 On reusing non polar solvents]

=== What to do with the waste? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3072 What to do with the waste]

=== How Can I Extract DMT From Phalaris? ===

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phalaris_%28grass%29 Phalaris] is a genus of grasses with very variable alkaloid content, which means it's very hard or impossible to really say if a given Phalaris will have a good alkaloid content in terms of what alkaloids are present and in what amounts. Some Phalaris have very little to no DMT (or 5-MeO-DMT or Beta-Carbolines), and yet have plenty of potentially toxic alkaloids such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gramine gramine], while others have good amounts of wanted tryptamines and low gramine content. There are also tryptamines and beta-carbolines in Phalaris which have unknown activity and safety profile such as 5-MeO-NMT and others. This variability is especially the case with wild Phalaris or those grown from seeds so, for a more reliable alkaloid content, the clones of known strains such as AQ1, Big Medicine (for DMT) and Turkey Red (for 5-MeO-DMT) are probably a better bet.

'''Even though some people have reported some variable success, we do NOT recommend people to ingest a crude brew made with Phalaris grass due to the unknown amounts of possible toxic alkaloids. If using Phalaris, extract it first as mentioned below'''

If growing Phalaris yourself, [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/images/8/8a/Festiandsamorini.pdf this]publication goes over all the factors of growth that affect the alkaloid content. Please check it out. Here's some selected quotes:

* "The highest concentration (of alkaloids) is in the upper third part of the seedling leaf."
* "The total alkaloid concentration decreases with plant maturity"
* "Total alkaloids are more concentrated in the first regrowth, after the cutting or grazing, than in the first growth just after sowing, decreasing then in the following regrowths"
* "The availability of soil nitrogen increases the alkaloids concentration"
* "In soil, but not in nutrient solution cultivations, the concentration of indole alkaloids (...) increase is greater in plants supplied with ammonium nitrogen compared to the nitric source"
* "Samples of P. arundinacea growing with 20% of the full sunlight can contain an amount of DMT about twice compared to control; 5-MeO-DMT may increase up to a factor of 25"
* "DMT seems to show a maximum in the first hours of the morning, at least in shaded plants, whereas 5-MeODMT reaches a concentration peak in late morning"

Regarding the extraction itself, the plant should be extracted as soon as possible after harvesting since plant enzyme activity can break down alkaloids, even if drying the plant. If plant is not extracted immediately, it should be stored in an alcoholic solution in cold and dark. For extraction, a standard A/B could potentially work well, boiling plant material 3x in acidic water (pH anywhere from 1-6 should work), filtering, reducing to small manageable amount by low boil or simmering, and then basing with NaOH and pulling with solvent. Alternatively, a dry tek (check the nexus extraction teks wiki for more info) with calcium hydroxide or sodium carbonate could work but there haven't been enough tests to say for sure.

Regarding what solvents to use, hexane/heptane or equivalent solvents such as naphtha should work well as gramine is very poorly soluble in it, but if using naphtha make sure that it doesn't contain xylene or aromatics mixed in. Some people report specially low yields with naphtha and suggest cooking oil or room temperature limonene instead (check hippie salad oil tek link below) Cold/room temperature limonene also seems to work to separate tryptamines from gramine but more work needs to be done to make sure this separation is good enough. Check the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] for the most up-to-date info, since solubility tests on gramine are being done right now. If using naphtha or similar hydrocarbons, doing a recrystallization is a good idea to help removing other unwanted alkaloids that may have come across. Using less selective solvents like DCM, xylene, toluene or others (or acetone or alcohols in a dry tek) would pull the potentially toxic unwanted alkaloids, so its not recommended to use those, unless you do a clean up at the end

If you extract from Phalaris, we would be very thankful if you document the process (notes and/or pictures) and post so that we all can learn about the results, whether they are good or not. Please try smoking/ingesting only a very small amount at first if you do. Ideally, purchase colorimetric reagents such as marquis or ehrlich to help identifying the final product if it contains the wanted alkaloids (more info in the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] )

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=44863 Hippie salad oil tek v 2]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=16810&p=7 Phalaris way of the future thread]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=28869 PDF on processing phalaris]

=== Can I use another solvent like xylene after having pulled with naphtha? ===

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359465#post359465 Can SWIM Use Dif Solvents To Extract Different Ranges of Spice?]

== DMT Usage/Methods of administration ==

=== Is my spice ok to smoke? ===

Often people ask in the forum if their spice is ok to smoke, followed by a picture or description of the dmt's appearance. Nevertheless, there are several other variables which simple color does not tell, and which are essential to decide whether one shoud or not smoke it. Please check link below for detailed information:

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=11715 IMPORTANT: spice color purity fallacy AKA is your dmt ok to smoke ? ]

=== How to brew ayahuasca or analogues (mimosa hostilis / syrian rue)? ===

The standard way of brewing is to first of all have the material powdered/grinded or pounded as fine as possible. Then
* 1- boil on low fire (or simmer) the plant material for around three hours (some people do even longer but not necessary unless material is too coarsely shredded.. Also energetic/ecological costs become higher). Use mineral or distilled water ideally, some tap water can have too high pH and diminish yields/potency. Use enough water to cover the plant material.
* 2- filter/strain the brew to separate the liquids and solids, store the liquid separately,
* 3- add fresh water to the solids and boil everything again. Do this for a total of 3 or 4 times,
* 4- put the liquid from the 3 or 4x boils together, keep filtered/decanted solids separately for stp 6,
* 5- reduce the liquid on low fire/simmer to a manageable ammount, like for example 70ml per dose (dosages/amounts of each plant in [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this thread]

OPTIONAL:
* 6- If you want to be very thorough and get all the alkaloids out, you can now soak the plant material in vinegar for a day, then freeze and thaw it, then boil it for another hour or two. This should have a significant amount of alkaloids, which can either be extracted by basing and filtering like the Easy Caapi Extraction Tek, and the alkaloids added to the main brew (or consumed separately in some other occasion), or you could also consume this orally directly but due to the vinegar it will taste very bad, so it's better to at least base it with sodium carbonate slowly until it stops bubbling and/or reaches a pH of around 6, and then it will taste better.

The MAOI containing plant (banisteriopsis caapi vine or syrian rue) can be boiled together with the DMT containing plant (psychotria viridis or mimosa hostilis, or just add some extracted dmt in appropriate dosage to the caapi/rue brew), but specially if its the first time with a particular plant batch, its recommended to brew separately the two, and first find out the potency of the plant by drinking first a small amount.

An acid can be added to the brew (such as a dash of lemon or vinegar), but this is not strictly necessary (and neither the traditional indigenous way), specially if your plant is finely powdered, because alkaloids in the plant are naturally in water-soluble form. Though acid can increase the potency of the brew (specially for non-powdered plant material), it will also make it taste worse. To get the best out of all the worlds, its recommended to do step 6, so you have a better tasting brew without acid, but you still get any remaining alkaloids at the end in the final acid soak.

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8972 all about aya <3 ]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=51 Ayahuasca subforum]
* [[Ayahuasca using Syrian Rue & Acacia confusa]]

=== Whats the best smoking method? ===

The [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] gives some tips not only on vaporizing methods but other tips, check it out.

Different people preffer different methods. FORGET THE LIGHTBULB METHOD as it only works for a small percentage of people, most report problems.

-
==== '''Vaporgenie''' ====

A big number of people in the Nexus claim the vaporgenie to be the best vaporizing method by far! The vaporgenie is claimed to be significantly more effective as well as having a much smoother vapor than other smoking methods so if one is having trouble with harsh smoke or low effects, try the vaporgenie out. The Glass VaporGenie is recommended but otherwise the classic one will work perfectly fine.

The first thing if you're vaporizing pure DMT, is to get a [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=42867 ceramic disc] or a volcano liquid pad and cut it up to fit the vaporgenie, otherwise the DMT will melt through the screens, even if it's multiple screens. Check the vaporgenie thread linked below for more details

Begin with the flame a few cms above the top and adjust as you go. With empty lungs, start inhaling slowly and steady. The idea is to inhale a dense vapour, but not too dense so that you start coughing. Its better to begin the inhaling with a not so dense smoke, and then make it denser towards the end. Keep the vapor in the lungs for as long as possible, at least 10 seconds. If you coughed or exhaled before this or couldnt inhale with all the lungs, try keeping the flame further away or adjusting the speed of inhaling so that its a bit less dense.

Usually it takes anywhere between 1-3 hits, or anywhere between 25-50mg for a full breakthrough, if you got your technique right. A torch lighter is recommended, but a normal lighter will also work fine.

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=39961#post39961 VG VaporGenie: How to use, where to get, advantages, etc]

- If you cant or dont want to afford a vaporgenie, a good possibility is to make your own vaporization tool like:

===='''amorfati's Inspirator MKII'''====

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8985 Link to how to build/use the Inspirator mKII]

For a vaporization to be really effective, the DMT should be heated by convection (hot air), not conduction (hot glass/pipe/material), so vaporgenie and inspirator are recommended. If you dont want to use these methods, there are other possibilities which are less effective and risk burning DMT instead of just vaporizing, but it does work decently enough for many people:

===='''- Bong/leaf bed/enhanced leaf'''====

One method also considered successful by some is in a water bong (or plain bong), with a couple of metal screens, a thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on the bottom, then the dmt in the middle, and then another thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on top.
It is essential to go very easy on the fire, because too much heat will degrade DMT. Keep the lighter as far away as possible so that it still vaporizes but doesnt over-heat your DMT
50mg seems to be a good dose if one wants to really go inside the dmt dimension. Inhale slowly and deeply, holding in the lungs as much as possible (at least a few seconds), exhaling, and then taking a second, third one if possible, and even fourth one if one still can. Even if after the first there are already some effects, if one really wants to breakthrough, gotta keep going as much as one can.

Specifically for enhanced leaf check link below

====''' The Machine'''====

Check links below

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=39961#post39961 VG VaporGenie: How to use, where to get, advantages, etc]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6014 Helps and tips for smoking spice]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=280594 My version of the "Machine" - How to make it in <15 minutes]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6131 Ban the Bulb - Modify the Machine]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to enhanced leaf changa]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5633 Thoughts on using a VaporGenie]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6317 Troubles with The Machine]

=== I dont get any effects/light buzz only, what to do? ===

99% of the times, when people do not get effects, they are having a bad vaporization method, most likely burning the sspice. Try one of the methods above, and considering it is dmt and one smokes it right, it should work. Other possibility is that one has a very impure product with too much plant oils and so on. One can perform one or more recrystalizations to get a purer product that is easier to weight accurately and vaporize, and then try methods above.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=86732#post86732 Trouble Breaking Through???]

=== Fear going into a trip ===

If you're afraid of dark things coming from inside of you and are not willing to face them, you should not consume any psychedelics at all...

If you're afraid but willing to face them, then that's another thing.

And whether it's changa, pharma, or aya or vaporized DMT, it doesn't matter much, those dark things can come out with one or the other.

A low dosage may help, yes, and so can a proper set and setting, but this is no guarantee you won't be facing what you fear the most. It can, and most likely will happen at some point, whether now or after a certain number of experiences. Whenever we take psychedelics, it's as if we sign a contract saying we accept all those possibilities. So think well before signing, and if you do sign, make sure to get all the preparations right before the time come, take it in a proper context and to humbly accept whatever may come, take responsibility for it, and learn from it.

==== Link ====

*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=470491#post470491 Suddenly concerned]

=== Denied breakthrough / Dark DMT trips / Not good experiences anymore ? ===

It happens with several people that they feel they aren't getting good experiences anymore, that the trips are consistently of dark motifs, negative feelings, or that the breakthrough is denied, regardless of dosage. There isn't a ready answer for why this happens, but it seems a few factors may be related to it. In many cases, this happens when people are having a regular or excessive DMT use, or when they haven't been dedicating enough to their daily lives, to [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration integration] of the experiences. Also, it may have in some cases to do with the intentions one sets before vaporizing the DMT, and with how one's mind state and the context in general is.

So a few tips on how to deal with this issue:

1- Take a break! The DMT hyperspace will always be there, there is no rush to go right now! Stop your DMT usage (and maybe drug usage altogether), dedicate to daily life, live a balanced healthy life, eat well, exercise, study, work. Do not obsess about DMT, try to only come back once you feel you have really made enough effort in improving your daily life. At least a few months break is recommended.

2- If and once you do decide to try it again, make sure it is a good place and time for it. Take care with using in the best set and setting possible (look further down the FAQ for recommended setting).

3- Do not smoke it impulsively. Meditate or spend a few minutes in silence, concentrating, breathing deeply and slowly.

4- Set your intentions straight. Question yourself why you are doing this. Try to have the best intentions and reasons as possible.

5- Use a good smoking method such as the vaporgenie or others as recommended above.

6- If it still doesnt work out for you, take an even longer break (many months/years), and/or stop it altogether. Realize that maybe DMT is just not for you. Its not a problem to admit one's relationship with a substance is not working, in fact, it shows you're being humble and conscious.

==== Link ====

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration Health and Safety section: Integration]
* [https://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=169680#post169680 what happened to the bright side?]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=13515 Vaporized DMT not having an effect in those who it has worked for previously]

=== What are the dosages for ... ? ===

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 Dosages and different forms of ingestion]

=== What is the best setting/context to consume spice? ===

Check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] for some tips on setting, preparation and also integration

* A comfortable quiet place is generally recommended. If there are friends around they should be requested to remain quiet while someone is embarking on this experience and only start speaking once the explorer talks himself and allows others. Possibility of telefone ringing or street noises or other interruptions is definitely NOT recommended.
* The presence of music or not depends a lot on personal taste. Some prefer full silence to 'concentrate' more deeply and mention that any stimulus keeps them too grounded in usual reality, while others can have very deep interconnected experiences with certain music of their own preference (often being some kind of chill out/ambient/ethno ).
* Many people preffer full darkness or indirect lighting, but sunset or sunrise in a nice nature place (if safe) can also be marvelous.
* Obviously '''DO NOT''' have sharp objects around, smoke next to cliffs, driving etc...
* It is very rare, but it may happen that one feels nauseated and/or vomits, so specially first times or those doing alone, its also recommended to have a bucket nearby, and to sit comfortably, resting the back against something soft in a way that you wont slip or fall, such as an armchair, bed with backrest/pillows or comfortable sofa.
* While we are not aware of any deaths, it would be irresponsible to discount the possibility that blocking your airway while deep in hyperspace could prove fatal, so be in a position/place where you are safe even if not conscious of the surroundings. During traditional ayahuasca ceremonies participants sit on the floor or in a comfortable chair. We recommend sitting upright (slightly reclined for stability) comfortably because the launch is far more immediate and surprising with vaporised DMT. Think of it as your pilot seat- you wouldn't fly a plane any other way!
* If you do not have a sitter to take the pipe from you, be sure that you have a safe and easy place very near to put it down when you feel hyperspace approaching. You will not be inclined to move your hand very far, so we would recommend a fireproof shelf of sorts less than a foot away. Just smoking cigarettes in bed kills many people every year, and obviously the same dangers are relevent with DMT. We have heard one report of a member who returned from an unenjoyable trip to find that she had dropped the pipe onto her leg, resulting in a nasty burn.
* Prior meditation or at least focusing on intention and inner calm can be benefiting.
* Remember to let go, dont struggle. Its normal that the hearbeat accelerates in the come up. Some people fear they are dying or that they wont return, but dont worry FOR SURE you come back, as it has happened with everybody else. Some people feel that they lose their breath, but its just a feeling.. As long as the airway is not physically blocked, then dont worry our body has a built-in mechanism that prevents one from stopping breathing.
* Dont be scared, entities cant hurt you in real life if you dont believe it. Try to not make 'good/bad' judgements during the experience, dont resist!! Just go with the flow of the ride. Some images may appear positive, negative, incredible, impossible to describe, etc, but you are safe regardless of what comes.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5900 Favourite setting for smoking DMT]

=== What about other ingestion methods (intranasal, intrarectal, Atomizer/E-cig etc) ? ===

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods Ingestion Methods]

=== Can DMT be IVed? ===

It can, but we do not recommend it mainly for two reasons:

1- The only official research done with DMT by Rick Strassmann used FDA-approved ultra pure DMT fumarate. The quality of home extraction products is questionable, one may have solvent traces and other impurities that could be uncomfortable, painful or downright dangerous to inject.

2- The onset of the effects are so quick that one might not be able to take out the needle in time and accidentally ripping their vein out while in hyperspace, or putting it down too near and rolling around/puncturing oneself

IF one is gonna do it inspite of contrary recommendations, then please: Take care in making many purifying steps (several recrystallizations/washes) and making sure it has no solvent or other chemical traces in the final product (redissolving the recrystallized product in USP grade acetone or ethanol and re-evaporating, scrapping and letting it dry completely before converting to fumarates in a sterile solution, etc.). Check the first link below for tips on how to prepare for injection and safety proceedures

Also, for the first try, take at most 0.2mg/kg, preferably less. And VERY importantly, [[do NOT do it by yourself]], have a sitter that is experienced with needles inject for you and be there to make sure you are physically safe.

==== Links ====

* [http://www.hipforums.com/newforums/showpost.php?p=6347899&postcount=5 Entheogen Review article on safe injection proceedure]
* [https://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4128 iv dmt]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1521 IV DMT]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3016 IV DMT?]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=144148 Injecting DMT]
* [https://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=7450 FASA safe for injection?]

=== How can I estimate the amount of mimosa? ===

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=236540#post236540 Estimating mimosa amount]

== DMT/Plant storage ==

=== Does DMT go bad? ===

The main degradation product of dmt seems to be dmt n-oxide, which is also psychoactive. Some people enjoy and find qualitative difference in n-oxide compared to dmt. On the other hand, other people report negative experiences with old spice, but it is unknown how much is self-suggestion and how much is really true. The rate at which dmt converts to n-oxide logically depends on factors such as air exposure and temperature, but so far there havent been any quantitative tests to tell how fast it goes in a given condition.

In any case, n-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

Many people convert the freebase to dmt fumarate for storage, as its claimed to be a more stable salt.

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1553 DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=302112#post302112 DMT oxidation rate]

=== Does mimosa go bad? ===

Generally mimosa should not go bad even after months/years. If it looks fine and doesnt have some mutant fungus growing on it, its perfect :) There are reports of people using mimosa that was for many months or even years in a drawer without any significant problem (though as with anything, its always more prudent to store in dark, dry, cold place).

The main possible degradation is of dmt into dmt n-oxide. Dmt n-oxide is also psychoactive, but it is not soluble in naphtha, which may cause some people to get small yields when extracting from older bark. N-oxide is soluble in limonene/xylene/toluene/etc, so one could extract it with those solvents without loss of yield. Alternatively, N-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

For oral usage of mimosa, formation of n-oxide wouldnt really affect much as it will be water soluble so one will still get the effects when consuming the brew.

==== Links ====
* [[DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3570 How long should MHRB keep]

=== Whats the best way to store DMT? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

In any case, one can also convert to dmt fumarate which is a very stable salt form of dmt

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4482 Long-term storage]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4867 How to store DMT for longest]

=== Whats the best way to store Mimosa? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

Logically, bark in pieces will keep better than when powdered

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1488 Storing mimosa hostilis]

== DMT Allies ==

=== What is jungle spice ? ===

https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359543#post359543
Jungle Spice is the product resulting from an extraction of mimosa hostilis using a solvent more polar than naphtha (such as xylene, toluene, limonene, ether, DCM, etc). Sometimes people also call it JimJam, which was first called only for limonene extracted products, but analysis shown it to be equivalent to what is extracted with xylene. Chemical analysis has shown that both naphtha as well as xylene/limonene extract mostly DMT (around 90%), plus around or under 1% 2-methy-1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-beta-carboline (2MTHBC) and NMT. The psychoactivity of 2MTHBC is unknown at this point, and NMT does appear to be psychoactive, though a quarter of the potency of DMT. Appart from these mentioned alkaloids, Xylene, when evaporated, and both limonene or xylene, when salted with an acidic solution like vinegar or FASW, also yield around 0.2% MTHBC (tetrahydroharman), and what could be 1,2-dimethyl-tetrahydrobetacarboline or a yuremamine degradation product (as suggested by dozuki in the jungle spice analysis thread linked below). Very little to nothing is known about these two 'extra' beta-carbolines in junglespice/jimjam, if they are psychoactive or can potentiate DMT.

Some people claim jungle spice to be stronger or produce a different experience than pure DMT. This may be self-suggestion (people thinking it is stronger/different therefore feeling it), it may be that the inactive oils/impurities present in jungle spice somehow protect DMT from heat, making a more effective vaporization, and therefore feel stronger. It may also be that the beta carbolines together, have a synergistic effect with DMT making a stronger experience, or it may be that these beta carbolines would only really be noticeable if they were in a larger quantity as is the case with some Acacias. It may be a mixture of any or all of the above possibilities.

Only further testing (such as blind self-experiments and more analysis) will help us isolating the variables and answer the questions on junglespice's activity

For more information on jungle spice, check the links below

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1115 Jungle Spice]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=10553 Jungle Spice chemical analysis]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23544 Entheogenic effects of NMT]

=== What is changa / How to make changa ? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Changa Changa WIKI]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to DMT enhanced leaf (changa)] thread
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=27537 How does your changa looks like ?] thread

=== What type of caapi/ayahuasca vine should I use, what are the differences ? ===

Different ethnobotanical suppliers seem to stock different varieties of caapi. Often they use color names (for example black caapi, white caapi, etc), or other names used by local / mestizos / indigenous people (caupuri, ourinhos, etc). The problem is that there is no consensus regarding the classification of different caapi vines, so some indigenous people may recognize 2 types, in another tribe they may recognize 10 types, and so on. These types may overlap or they may even be in contradiction with each other. Also botanists would not necessarily agree with those types, as sometimes classification from indigenous people is not based on how a plant looks, but also on its effects, purpose, etc. In fact, some of what is sold as "black/red/whatever caapi" may even be of a different genus/species altogether (more discussion on this on links below)

There is an ongoing analysis project going on with different caapi/ayahuasca vines (link below), and it seems some caapis have very similar alkaloid/chemical component even if they have different names, while others may have quite different content even if they are named the same. The difference can be in ratio of alkaloids or total alkaloid yield, for example some black caapi from one vendor yielded over 2% alkaloids, a black caapi from another vendor yielded 0.5%.

Regarding the type/function/effects of different caapis, at this point any conclusions and generalizations are not possible. As an example, at times it's said that black caapi is used for more witchcraft kind of rituals by some shamans, but this doesnt mean that: a- that particular group is "correct", b-that other groups would agree with what they call "black caapi", c- That the black caapi you find is equivalent to that, d- that you cant use it for another purpose and have a great experience regardless.

It may be that there is a pattern between alkaloid content of different caapi vines (some may have more harmaline, or more THH, etc), but at this point we cannot yet say. Also even if a correctly identified subtype of caapi would have a specific alkaloid content, we would still have to make the assumption that the vendors are actually identifying correctly.

If you want to decide what type of caapi to get, one thing you could do is check the suppliers section and see if this specific caapi from the specific vendor has been reviewed, and dont believe in generalizations (all caapi "X" is strong and gives dark trips, all caapi "Y" is light and for beginners). Start with low dosage (10-20g) for the first time to gauge the strenght of this particular batch you have acquired, and then raise the dosage accordingly if necessary.

Another thing to do is to buy at least 2 different types and then take them in separate occasions, and then sharing the results with the community, and that way we all grow together.

Do check the links below as they have very relevant discussions regarding the different caapi types:

==== Links ====
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29967 Caapi analysis thread]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32018 Poorly understood family of ayahuasca vines]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=30106 tetrapterys methystica (painted caapi) and other kinds of caapi]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=325495#post325495 Which caapi should I get ?]

== Plant sources ==

=== What are the best DMT-containing plants in my area ? ===

One good way to check what DMT plants you have around you is to look at the Nexus Wiki lists for [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT plants containing DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT] ) . Then use the search function of [http://www.discoverlife.org discoverlife page] or [http://bonap.org/genera-list.html bonap] to search the plants names and see in the species map if any of the good candidates grow near you, or alternatively, you can first identify the plants growing around you and search for their scientific name on the mentioned wiki lists.

If you don't find any plants growing around you, you can consider cultivating some ideal plants yourself, for example checking out the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=38229 Top Acacias To Grow Worldwide Thread] for the mid-long term, or getting known cuttings of phalaris with good alkaloid content such as AQ1 and big medicine (for more info check all the links in the first post of the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]) which can be harvested pretty quick

=== Does this plant contain DMT ? ===

Often people ask in the forum if the plant they have growing around them contains DMT. Then they might post pictures of the plants and expect an identification. Before that is done, the person asking needs to do some basic things:

1- Look up the information to know the plants that contain interesting alkaloids. The best resources are the Nexus wiki of plants containing [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT].

If it's an Acacia, read the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Acacia information thread] and if it's a Phalaris read the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]. Those threads contain information on seed suppliers, geographic location, season of harvest, conditions of growth and variation in alkaloid content, etc, which the person should become familiar with.

2-The person should try to identify the local plants based on the information in the above links. Posting picture of random plants without at least having some clue on what they could be, will only make everybody's life much harder. Look up images of suspected plants and compare, see in what they may differ.

3- Take detailed pictures of the different plant parts (overall plant, leaf close up front and back, seedpods and flower close ups if they are there). Often to differentiate between species the details are important, so blurry bad quality pictures or single pictures with no close ups or details of different plant parts are not enough.

4- Post your ID request in the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=358663#post358663 Acacia ID thread] if it's a suspected Acacia, or make a new thread if it's a differen't plant. Be sure to say what plant you think it is, and include information such as general geographic area, the detailed pics above, and any possible differences you may have seen with the plant you think it is.

5- If your plant gets identified and you plan on harvesting, please only harvest sustainably! Check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=344487#post344487 this] post for more information

=== Links ===

'''[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Containing_Plants WIKI -> DMT Containing Plants].''''

'''[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Botanicals WIKI -> Botanicals].'''

''' [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=369566#post369566 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace] '''

''' [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Trying to improve Acacia information] '''

''' [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33648 Acacia Identification Thread] '''

.

== Reference ==
<references/>

Attitude Page

2014-04-21T14:53:18Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Learn and give back */

The DMT Nexus is a community dedicated to expanding knowledge regarding DMT and related psychedelics, with a strong focus on the safety and respect necessary both in the use of these substances as well as in the form of developing the knowledge and sharing the knowledge within the community. For a propper functioning of the community, all of those browsing and posting here agree to honor the following key points:

== Attitude ==

=== Learn and give back ===

The Nexus is a community that thrives on the collaborative efforts of members in different areas throughout the years. We depend on the contributions of all Nexians, be it seniors or new members, to create, maintain and update the quality information here. If you have enjoyed, learned from and made use of the information and discussions here, please take your time to also contribute back. Each person has their own unique way to contribute, so you have to find your own. A few ideas: improve chemical knowledge and do side-by-side tests, participate in discussions and criticise constructively other arguments, critically question other people to improve depth of discussions, contribute to the Nexus wiki, sharing trip reports, mediating arguments between people who cant find consensus, post interesting links to related subjects, contribute to the sustainability of the Nexus, [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/donate.html donating], [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=12 suggesting] new changes to design or forum, etc. Give back, and be a co-creator of this incredible place :)

=== Respectful communication ===

Watch your language. Communication is comprised of not only the explicit but also the implicit messages, which are transmitted through choice of words and general tone of speech. We do not want curse words and immature slang in the Nexus! Please use language in a dignified manner.

=== Safe and constructive drug talk ===

This forum is not a place for superficial unsafe talk of drugs such as excessive use and dosages, unsafe combinations and settings and careless use of substances that naturally have a riskier profile without due disclaimers and clear signs of having learned from mistakes and offering insights for better usage. See this thread for more info: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=25363 Policy regarding discussion of different drugs]. Substances such as research chemicals have some added dangers that should be taken in account and explicitly recognized when talking about them in the forum, as [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=389003 this] thread explains.

Also we do NOT give medical advice here (such as telling people not to see doctors and go to shamans for serious medical problems, etc), as [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=20759 this] thread explains. Lastly, please read the [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety Health and Safety section] and the for contraindications, facts and tips on safety, reducing risks, dealing with difficult experiences, integrating the trips and maximizing benefits.

=== Critical thinking and basic autonomy ===

We try to encourage and expect critical thinking between members. This means one should question one's assumptions and actions, for example seeing if it can impact negatively upon oneself or others around you. We do not want people displaying arguments and trains of thought that are reckless and dangerous, or talking about things that can be a liability. Also one should do basic research before asking and saying things, we do not want to spoonfeed answers. The [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ FAQ] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/ WIKI], the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=search Nexus search function] and Google are basic tools everybody should use and should already help prevent the repetition of topics, that conversion remains superficial and that members have to repetitively respond by pointing to the obvious.

=== Quality of information and discussion ===

If you post something as a fact, you have to be able to provide a reliable source for your argument. This depends contextually, but a peer-reviewed publication is an example of what could be a good source, and a random unknown website or what “someone said” could be an example of an unreliable source. If you state something as your opinion then please support that opinion with good reasoning. If you cannot do that then don't state your opinion at all since it's useless for others. This is not Facebook with like/dislike.

== Rules ==

=== Over 18 years ===

The age of majority is the threshold of adulthood as it is conceptualized (and recognized or declared) in law. It is the chronological moment when minors cease to legally be considered children and assume control over their persons, actions, and decisions, thereby terminating the legal control and legal responsibilities of their parents or guardian over and for them.

This means that at the age of 18 you are considered to have your own freedom and responsibility.

=== No discussion on selling, buying, sourcing, acquiring, pricing, trading, mentioning pending deliveries or smuggling of drugs ===

This includes all isolated psychedelic compounds and RCs (Research Chemicals), whether they are legal or not. The only goods allowed to be discussed are legal live plants, legal viable seeds (both in the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=108 Sustainable plant and seed suppliers subforum]) and legal/unwatched chemical supplies. See [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3414 Street Value of DMT (AND WHY YOU SHOULDN'T EVER SELL DMT AND OTHER PSYCHEDELICS]) for good reasons why we don't allow this.

Also please read this thread: [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=38302 Bye bye MHRB sourcing talk, we will remember you]

=== No preaching ===

If you have an opinion about something, respectfully state it, but please do not talk in absolutes about right and wrong or disrespectfully disregard other world views. No matter how convinced, nobody has a monopoly over knowing what life or the universe is all about, of knowing what happens after death or exactly what 'hyperspace' is and where the experiences come from.

=== No Conspiracy Theories ===

Due to the divisive unconstructive fear-mongering nature of CT topics and the fact that they often rely on unreliable anecdotes and sources make them an [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=11487 undesired topic here in the Nexus].

Conspiracy fact ''may'' be acceptable, provided '''enough''' factual information, evidence, and credible sources are given; wild speculation is minimized. This is at the discretion of the moderators and The Traveler.

=== No confrontational attitude ===

Diversity, constructive criticism and differing opinions are welcome. Nobody has to unquestioningly agree with everything in this community. Nevertheless, we do not want a confrontational attitude, members that are constantly antagonistic, that turn arguments into fights and worsen the atmosphere. We don't appreciate dramas or excessive sarcastic posting. If one is not happy with a discussion, respectfully state why or don't post at all. Don't use the Nexus for venting your personal frustrations, please question yourself why is each post being written, if it is beneficial to the community. Please tell any moderators if you have a legitimate complaint or suggestion about the forums, but be patient and don't fuel drama. We are constantly trying to improve this community and need your help and patience for it.

=== No sharing of any real life information ===

Due to the nature of the topics discussed on this forum it is not allowed to post any information that will reveal one's identity. Examples of this are facebook pages, personal websites, email addresses, home addresses, photo's of one self or any other means that will give handles to have you tracked in real life.

=== No unsafe extraction settings and procedures ===

We are against people extracting or using substances in student dorms/parents/shared houses or any other unsafe place or where the owners or roommates do not agree with what is being done. We do not give tips on 'stealth' teks. Do not do it unless the owner of the place accepts his/her full responsibility for the actions being done. If you don't have such a place to extract now, be patient, many have waited years and years for the right moment.

=== No discussion about taking entheogens in an unsafe or irresponsible setting ===

Taking entheogens in a place where it is clearly not safe, either physically and/or legally, is not supported by the DMT-Nexus. For this we do not condone discussion of taking entheogens in (semi) public places or where the location is outright dangerous for the person taking the entheogen like on the ledge of a cliff or the top of a building.

=== No commercial-scaled extractions and reckless “spreading” ===

The Nexus is not a place for commercial operations and we do not want to support drug dealers; we believe in using these substances for personal use.

If and when sharing these substances, we believe that it has to be done without money or other payments involved, with a careful approach and care when facilitating the introduction and/or experience of others.

It is imperative to take care that the person ingesting has no contraindicating medical/psychological history, takes it in a proper set and setting, and correct dosage/method of ingestion. This cannot be done if the substances are spread on a large scale. We do not want to "turn on the world", those who are ready will seek it. Indiscriminate spreading of psychedelics can lead to potential serious damage to people and is a big legal liability. Big extractions (and the preparations leading to it and gathering of materials) can attract the attention of the Law.

Spreading of the message of psychedelics itself through superficial YouTube videos showing use or extractions can also cause a lot of damage to the community (as happened with salvia) and is frowned upon.

=== Discussions about Novel Psychoactive Substances (RC) and Nootropics are only allowed for full members ===

New members cannot discuss Novel Psychoactive Substances (RC) and Nootropics, only full members can. Read more about it here [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=40448 NEW SUBFORA 'Nootropics' and Novel Psychoactive Substances (RC)']

=== No synthesis talk that uses dangerous/watched chemicals and procedures ===

Discussion of simple safe non-commercial synthesis not requiring watched chemicals are tolerated (example: the reduction of DMT N-oxide to DMT with zinc, or the supposed LSA-to-LSH conversion).

=== No using the Nexus as a personal meet-up point ===

Due to potential legal risks, we do not want people giving their emails or personal contacts (or displaying full face pictures) openly. We don't want people telling other members they don't already know to meet up privately, this can be a problem for both the people meeting as well as bringing attention for the whole community. The only exception we make is that we allow establishing general meeting points for festivals and conferences because you don't have to say who you are in the Nexus when going there, and you can go to the meeting point if you want while remaining anonymous. If you do meet up, do not bring drugs and be sure to maintain your personal safety.

=== Only talk about sources for live plants and seeds ===

We have decided to allow only talk about sources of live plants and seeds. This way we are putting energy into a sustainable relationship with these plants, and not just finding a 'source' (which is often unsustainable, for example check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=46913 here]). Also, many people were coming only to look for dry plant sources without an appropriate attitude, plus we were only helping calling attention of law enforcement to those suppliers. If you want dry plant matter, google it or look in other forums. For more info, check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=38302 this thread]. Discussing sources for chemicals/labware/etc is still allowed.

# Note: Art Van D'Lay is the only person exempt from these rules. If anybody posts in opposition to our stated attitude, Art will be let loose on the offender :D

Category:Other projects

2014-04-21T04:50:11Z

Cosmic Spore:

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=50946 CIP] (Cannabis Information Project)
... AKA [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=50946 Cannabinoid & Cannabis Studies, Documentaries & the like]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/cosmicspore/Cannabis.zip Cannabis.zip]
[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/File:Cannabinoid_%26_Cannabis_Research_%26_Studies_%28link%29.pdf Cannabinoid & Cannabis Research & Studies (link)]

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=53863 Indexing Cannabis Threads]

File:Cannabinoid & Cannabis Research & Studies (link).pdf

2014-04-21T04:45:22Z

Cosmic Spore: Blanked the page

File:Cannabinoid & Cannabis Research & Studies (link).pdf

2014-04-21T04:43:57Z

Cosmic Spore: [[Media: Cannabinoid & Cannabis Research & Studies (link)]

[[Media: Cannabinoid & Cannabis Research & Studies (link)]

Phalaris spp.

2014-04-17T15:07:40Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Relevant links */

== Species ==

* [[Phalaris aquatica]]
* [[Phalaris arundinacea]]
* [[Phalaris brachystachys]]

== General phalaris info ==

Phalaris is a genus of grasses that are known in the ethnobotanical world for being a potential alternative source for psychoactive tryptamines.

== Alkaloid Content ==

The alkaloid content in the Phalaris genus varies greatly depending on species and strain, as well as conditions of growing. Not all Phalaris will be good for extracting psychoactive tryptamines, some may have very little alkaloids, some may have more of toxic alkaloids such as gramine, or of stimulant-like alkaloids such as hordenine, or they may have wanted tryptamines such as DMT and 5-MeO-DMT. Do not bioassay an extract from Phalaris without making sure you are getting the alkaloids you want. For more info check file linked below.

The alkaloids found so far in Phalaris according to festi and samorini 1994:

*N-methyltryptamine (MMT)
*5-methoxy-N-methyltryptamine (5-MeO-MMT)
*N,N-dimethyltryptamine (DMT)
*5-methoxy-N,N-dimethyltryptamine (5-MeO-DMT)
*5-hydroxy-N,N-dimethyltryptamine (Bufotenine, 5-HO-DMT)
*5-methyl-tryptamine
*5-methoxy-tryptamine
*2-methyl-l,2,3,4-tetrahydro-B-carboline (MTHC), not found in P. aquatica
*2-methyl-6-methoxy-1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-B-carboline (MMTHC)
*2,9-dimethyl-6-methoxy-l ,2,3,4-tetrahydro-B-carboline (DMTHC)
*Gramine
*7-methoxy-gramine
*5,7-dimethoxy-gramine
*Hordenine

== Cultivation ==

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=8255 Samorini & Festi (amazing publication with review of phalaris analysis and conditions that affect growth)]

== Suppliers ==

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=24897 Suppliers of known strains of phalaris grass]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=20835 Supplier]

== Extraction teks ==

Different extraction teks used for other DMT containing plant can work theoretically for Phalaris too, but there are 3 main issues with extracting from phalaris:

1- Finding a plant that yields decently
2- Finding a plant with good alkaloid profile
3- Dealing with plant impurities/chlorophyll/fats

For these reasons, one will more likely have good results if one extracts from a grown plant of a known strain such as AQ1, Big Medicine for DMT, and Yugo Red or Turkey Red for 5-MeO-DMT, as well as using the stress/growth tricks to improve alkaloid content as described above

To get rid of gramine, there are still some analytical tests to make sure and find a definite tek for phalaris but the main indication we have at this point is the fact that gramine should not be soluble in solvents such as petroleum ether / hexane / heptane / aliphatic naphtha, and therefore pulling with those solvents and recrystallizing with them should be enough to remove gramine. Also cold/room temp limonene seems to not pull gramine. More info in analysis thread linked further below.

For separating from fats, fumarate precipitation such as FASI on limonene or FASA on xylene could potentially be a way to bypass the need for defats.

== Relevant links ==

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=16810 Phalaris - Way of the future]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 The Phalaris Analysis Thread]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23534 Successful Phalaris extraction]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=19547 Where are we at the grass tek]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=34525 Phalaris/other grass types ID thread]

== Scientific articles ==

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=3957 The occurrence of 2-MTHBC in Phalaris arundinacea]

Phalaris spp.

2014-04-17T15:05:07Z

Cosmic Spore:

== Species ==

* [[Phalaris aquatica]]
* [[Phalaris arundinacea]]
* [[Phalaris brachystachys]]

== General phalaris info ==

Phalaris is a genus of grasses that are known in the ethnobotanical world for being a potential alternative source for psychoactive tryptamines.

== Alkaloid Content ==

The alkaloid content in the Phalaris genus varies greatly depending on species and strain, as well as conditions of growing. Not all Phalaris will be good for extracting psychoactive tryptamines, some may have very little alkaloids, some may have more of toxic alkaloids such as gramine, or of stimulant-like alkaloids such as hordenine, or they may have wanted tryptamines such as DMT and 5-MeO-DMT. Do not bioassay an extract from Phalaris without making sure you are getting the alkaloids you want. For more info check file linked below.

The alkaloids found so far in Phalaris according to festi and samorini 1994:

*N-methyltryptamine (MMT)
*5-methoxy-N-methyltryptamine (5-MeO-MMT)
*N,N-dimethyltryptamine (DMT)
*5-methoxy-N,N-dimethyltryptamine (5-MeO-DMT)
*5-hydroxy-N,N-dimethyltryptamine (Bufotenine, 5-HO-DMT)
*5-methyl-tryptamine
*5-methoxy-tryptamine
*2-methyl-l,2,3,4-tetrahydro-B-carboline (MTHC), not found in P. aquatica
*2-methyl-6-methoxy-1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-B-carboline (MMTHC)
*2,9-dimethyl-6-methoxy-l ,2,3,4-tetrahydro-B-carboline (DMTHC)
*Gramine
*7-methoxy-gramine
*5,7-dimethoxy-gramine
*Hordenine

== Cultivation ==

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=8255 Samorini & Festi (amazing publication with review of phalaris analysis and conditions that affect growth)]

== Suppliers ==

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=24897 Suppliers of known strains of phalaris grass]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=20835 Supplier]

== Extraction teks ==

Different extraction teks used for other DMT containing plant can work theoretically for Phalaris too, but there are 3 main issues with extracting from phalaris:

1- Finding a plant that yields decently
2- Finding a plant with good alkaloid profile
3- Dealing with plant impurities/chlorophyll/fats

For these reasons, one will more likely have good results if one extracts from a grown plant of a known strain such as AQ1, Big Medicine for DMT, and Yugo Red or Turkey Red for 5-MeO-DMT, as well as using the stress/growth tricks to improve alkaloid content as described above

To get rid of gramine, there are still some analytical tests to make sure and find a definite tek for phalaris but the main indication we have at this point is the fact that gramine should not be soluble in solvents such as petroleum ether / hexane / heptane / aliphatic naphtha, and therefore pulling with those solvents and recrystallizing with them should be enough to remove gramine. Also cold/room temp limonene seems to not pull gramine. More info in analysis thread linked further below.

For separating from fats, fumarate precipitation such as FASI on limonene or FASA on xylene could potentially be a way to bypass the need for defats.

== Relevant links ==

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=16810 Phalaris - Way of the future]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 The Phalaris Analysis Thread]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23534 Successful Phalaris extraction]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=19547 Where are we at the grass tek]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=506030#post506030 Phalaris/other grass types ID thread]

== Scientific articles ==

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=3957 The occurrence of 2-MTHBC in Phalaris arundinacea]

FAQ - DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide

2014-04-17T03:58:28Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Links */

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of the 'DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide'<ref>DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide
[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6341]</ref>.}}

== DMT overview ==

=== What is DMT, Where do I learn the basics? ===

DMT is a naturally occuring substance, present in trace amounts in normal human metabolism (and its purpouse is unknown, check question [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Is_it_true_the_pineal_gland_produces_DMT_naturally_and_is_involved_in_dreaming.3F 2.1] , as well as in a variety of plants and animals.

It can be extracted from some of these plants and smoked for some very strong psychedelic/entheogenic effects lasting 10 minutes. It can also be taken orally, but we have an enzyme (MAO) in our stomach that destroys dmt if taken orally, so for taking orally DMT must be acompanied by a substance that inhibits this enzyme (MAOI, or MAO Inhibitor), which is also present in some other plants.

Ayahuasca, a sacred drink used by indigenous people of the Amazon, is an example of a drink made from a dmt-containing plant (Psychotria viridis), together with a MAOI containing plant (Banisteriopsis caapi), that is drank orally for a psychedelic/entheogenic experience lasting around 4 hours.

When smoking, we do not need to use MAOI because we do not have MAOs in our lungs. Nevertheless, some people like to also ingest MAOIs before vaporizing DMT, or vaporizing a MAOI together with the DMT (such as in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ_-_DMT_Frequently_Asked_Questions_and_Troubleshooting_Guide#What_is_changa_.2F_How_to_make_changa_.3F changa]), to make the experience last longer.

For learning more about DMT, this whole webpage is dedicated to it. Here's a few links

==== Links ====

* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dimethyltryptamine Wikipedia DMT Link]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/ The Dmt Nexus Wiki]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ Frequently Asked Questions]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=forum Main Dmt Nexus Forum]

=== Are there different types of DMT? ===

DMT can be in salt form or in freebase form. A salt form means the DMT is attached to an acid molecule. DMT is naturally in salt form in the plants because of plant acids (for example dmt tannate or oxalate due to tannic or oxalic acid being present in some plants). When people extract DMT, they can make it in freebase form to smoke, because DMT in salt form can't be smoked, it has high boiling point and breaks down instead of vaporizing efficiently. Some salt forms like DMT fumarate can even be toxic to smoke due to creation of maleic anhydride during combustion.

Appart from being naturally in brews made of DMT containing plants like ayahuasca, DMT can also be made into salt for, for example DMT fumarate, when people extract it, because DMT fumarate is stable and can be stored for long, and it can be taken orally or intranasally. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods this] for more info. Regarding dosages in different salt forms, one can read [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this] thread. Each salt form of DMT have their own weight depending on the acid molecule weight (for example DMT fumarate's weight is around 76% DMT, 24% fumaric acid), so dosages could be adjusted proportionately to the amount of DMT when ingesting, but since each person is differently sensitive to DMT and since salt form may be a bit more effective to ingest orally, this "salt weight calculation" is not really necessary for DMT, one can just ingest according to [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 these] recommendations, starting low for first time, and adjusting according to own sensitivity and batch the next time.

There are other molecules which have the DMT structure built into them but they are not DMT, they have structural modifications, for example 4-HO-DMT also known as psilocin and 4-PO-DMT, psilocybin, the active compounds in mushrooms, which are different molecules altogether with their own particular effects. Small modifications in molecules can completely change effects. So psilocybin, psilocin, 5-MeO DMT, and 5-HO-DMT (bufotenine), plus others, are all different molecules, they are NOT the same as DMT. Each of them has different effects, pharmacology, etc etc. On the other hand, DMT freebase or DMT in salt form (tannate, acetate, fumarate) are all DMT.

== DMT Chemistry and Body ==

=== Is it true the pineal gland produces DMT naturally and is involved in dreaming and death? What does DMT do in the body? ===

At this point there is no evidence to support the claim that DMT is produced in the pineal or brain. It is a speculation raised by Dr Rick Strassman due to his previous interest in the pineal. So far in humans, the key enzymes necessary for this have [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=5549 not been found present in the human brain], therefore it seem more likely it is produced elsewhere in the body, though some recent research has shown in primates these enzymes are present in pineal gland. In any case nothing is really proven yet so we must avoid making claims before more data comes in.

The supposed connection of DMT and dreams, and the idea that DMT is released when we die, both are speculation with no real evidence to back them up.

It IS proven, though, for decades already, that DMT is produced in the human body and is present at all times in trace amounts, for unknown functions (which could be several functions, see last link below).

==== Links ====

*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18834 Zero proof DMT is made in the brain]
*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=295746#post295746 I dislike the "DMT is responsible for your dreams" theory]
*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18394 Rethinking DMT and the Pineal Gland]
*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18448 The functions of DMT in our body: If DMT would be a neurotransmitter]

=== Is DMT dangerous? ===

Researches have been made showing the relative safety of dmt. It does not cause physical damage, addiction, and any tolerance disappears very quickly. Ayahuasca, the dmt-containing brew from the Amazon, has been studied by multidisciplinary groups in Brazil and other countries and was shown that in a careful context, it presents no negative cognitive/psychiatric/social consequences, even in adolescents.

There is yet little research into vaporized dmt, but there seems to be no sign that it is in any way more dangerous physically than other administration forms. There are no reported deaths from smoking DMT. Smoking it will not lead to a dangerous overdose because the onset is so quick that one can only inhale a certain amount before being gone to ´hyperspace', without being able to smoke more until one is down again.

However:
* People with extreme heart or other conditions for whom strong emotions could be dangerous are contra-indicated, just like a roller coaster would for them.
* It is important to notice that with any psychedelic, it is a very powerful emotional/mental experience, so those with personal or family psychiatric history, unstable emotionally or going through some very difficult moments in life should be extremely careful.
* Also, it is possible that during the experience, one temporarily loses orientation in the consensus reality, so smoking/ingesting next to a cliff, sharp objects, etc, is not a good idea. BE IN A PHYSICALLY SAFE ENVIRONMENT!
* DO NOT use MAOIs (so for example an ayahuasca brew) together with stimulants or SSRI medication

Appart from that, there are psychological issues to be considered. Please read the health and safety section linked below, as well as the scientific articles also linked below.

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety Health And Safety Section]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1441 Scientific Articles on DMT/Ayahuasca/Psychedelics]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4400 Long term effects of smoking DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5843 DMT After-Effects]

=== Is a MAOI diet / Ayahuasca fasting necessary? What kind of dangers are there with medication interaction? ===

Unlike some pharmaceutical MAOI, the Harmalas, alkaloids present in the caapi vine and syrian rue are reversible inhibitors of MAO-A, while Tyramine, the component in some food that could cause problems in big amounts, is eliminated partly by MAO-A and but also partly by the intact MAO-B ([http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 source] ). Also for some pharmacological reason as shown in [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_fig9big.jpg this] diagram, tyramine can still be partly metabolized by MAO-A even during the harmala effects.

In other words, in terms of '''food''' interaction, the danger with reversible MAOI use (in for example ayahuasca or pharmahuasca with harmalas) and food interaction is very reduced. The necessity of the very strict dieting for ayahuasca with extensive list of what one must absolutely not eat is an exaggeration, though it is advised to eat light because extreme amounts of tyramine in some specific foods could theoretically still be a potential problem.

There seem to be no reports of actual life-threatening events with tyramine-containing foods and harmalas. There are even people that purposely ate tyramine-containing foods with no ill effects, but there have also been reports of negative symptoms such as very strong headaches and negative body load when mixing a heavy food consumption before/during/after harmala consumption. Several other variables may also be involved that are unrelated to tyramine and harmala-food interaction (variables such as for example exhaustion from the trip, vasodilation, the body/ayahuasca telling the person to 'eat better' in general, etc). Headaches seem specially common when mixing beer and harmalas.

In any case, it is generally considered common sense to eat light before and after the use of ayahuasca and analogues (and psychedelics in general). Just follow your good sense and you should be fine. To eer on the side of caution, the food to avoid eating (or over-eating) is aged or fermented food specially aged cheese, fermented or smoked meat (fish included) and soy products (though some soy products have also been found to have little tyramine content). Beer should also be avoided as some people have experienced negative interaction between MAOIs and beer. Apart from that, there are no real restrictions, eat lightly and all should be good :)

In relation to how long to wait after the last food before taking ayahuasca, this is very personal. Some like to have empty stomach and be fasting for 6 or more hours, but this is not necessary, and others feel it is even negative to fast for so long, because a too empty stomach might make one very tired during the ceremony, specialy at the end, and can also make purging a specially difficult or uncomfortable experience. Some consider better to have eaten something light (like some fruits or cereal or light sandwhich) a couple of hours before ingesting ayahuasca/analogues.

Remember: With the exception of moclobemide, which stands in the same category as harmalas as far as reversibility and food interaction goes, avoid all other pharmaceutical MAOIs !! Pharmaceutical irreversible MAOIs are VERY dangerous to take without taking strong precautions with food and drug interaction.

'''What IS dangerous is interaction between any MAOIs (including harmalas) and stimulants or some medication''' such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_serotonin_reuptake_inhibitor SSRI] medication such as prozac, or stimulants such as amphetamines or others. If you're taking SSRI's, do not consume MAOIs!! Do not mix stimulants with MAOIs either! Mixing stimulants/SSRIs with MAOIs can cause Serotonin Syndrome which may lead to convulsions or even death. For pharmaceuticals and substances that should NEVER be taken when consuming harmalas, check [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 1] and [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 2]

==== Links ====
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29131 Do you experience tyramine interaction with harmalas?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5711 Will smoked Rue cause MAOI?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5398 Think iv cracked it]
* [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=tyramine%20food%20table&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CFMQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fddr.nal.usda.gov%2Fbitstream%2F10113%2F7351%2F1%2FIND43817287.pdf&ei=PpvsT8zAEsXAhAehj-nPBQ&usg=AFQjCNGKR57Q_VTqzOjKxfvKbu0kDTB8Ng&cad=rja Scientific publication on food containing tyramine]
* [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 scientific publication on interaction of MAOIs and tyramine]

== DMT and Society ==

=== Is dmt legal? ===

Posession and sales of DMT in its pure extracted/synthesized form is illegal, schedule 1 in USA and controlled by United Nations and can land you in jail if found in most countries.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/dmt/dmt_law.shtml Erowid DMT Law Vault]

=== '''Are the natural ingredients such as mimosa, and ayahuasca, illegal?''' ===

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=21527 On the Legal Status of DMT Source Plants in the US (with a discussion of the religious use defense)]'''

==== Links ====

* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/ayahuasca/ayahuasca_law.shtml Erowid Ayahuasca Law Vault]
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/plants/mimosa/mimosa_law.shtml Erowid Mimosa Law Vault]

=== Whats the price of dmt / Can I trade dmt? ===

'''[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Attitude_Page#No_discussion_on_selling.2C_buying.2C_sourcing.2C_acquiring.2C_pricing.2C_trading.2C_mentioning_pending_deliveries_or_smuggling_of_drugs No discussion on selling, buying, sourcing, acquiring, pricing, trading, mentioning pending deliveries or smuggling of drugs].'''

'''DO NOT BUY OR SELL DMT!''' We at the nexus are against selling/profiting with this incredible substance. We do not know and we do not want to know how much it costs in the street, we do not want it to be sold on the streets! This is not only disrespectful and shows a lack of understanding about the power of this substance, but its also a liability for the whole community. Dealing/trading DMT can attract the attention of authorities and create a problem not only for yourself but for all others in the community.

'''Talking about DMT sales or trade will result in suspension from the forum!'''

All the reasons why we dont believe in it are listed in the thread below

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3414 Street Value of DMT (and why you should never sell it) ]

== DMT Extraction ==

=== Where to start? ===

There are several ways of extracting DMT, and different ways use different chemicals and take different time. It is recommended that before embarking on extracting, one reads up at least a couple of different teks (link on the bottom) to understand the processes.

The basics of an extraction is:

DMT is present in many plant materials and can be isolated through simple processes. Most commonly used plant is [[Mimosa hostilis]] root bark, but there are other plants with good alkaloid profile such as certain Acacias and certain strains of [[Phalaris spp.]]

DMT in an acidic solution is in salt form and therefore water soluble, while DMT in a basic solution becomes a freebase and not water soluble but rather soluble in non-polar solvents (like limonene, naphtha, xylene, etc). This works similarly to most other alkaloids, with a few exceptions, for example harmalas freebase dont dissolve in the solvents mentioned above, but when you add a base to a solution containing harmalas, they just precipitate and you can filter them.

Back to DMT, non-polar solvents separate from water like oil, it stays as a layer on top. By playing with the pH (adding an acid or a base) you make the dmt move from one place to the other while most of other impurities dont, and then you separate the layers by pippeting/separatory funnel/decanting, and then retrieve the dmt from the non-polar solvent by evaporating it or freeze-precipitating (putting it in a closed container in the freezer, and as the temperature goes down the solubility of dmt in the solvent diminishes, so after some hours dmt precipitates and can be retrieved). There are differences depending on the process of extraction you use (for example limonene can't be evaporated and neither freeze precipitated, it's usually salted, as described in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB], but that is, in a very general way, how it works.

There are some new developed teks for extracting dmt with food-safe materials and/or no petro-chemical solvents, such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] , [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Nontoxic_Approach_to_Spice_Extraction Amor Fati's approach], or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek Q21Q21's extraction tek]. The biggest advantage is, as said, the use of relatively non-toxic material and no petrochemicals but instead solvents such as limonene, which is basically pure orange oil. The disadvantage is that to retrieve the dmt from limonene, you cannot evaporate it (as limonene doesnt evaporate cleanly, it leaves gooey residues), and freeze precipitation also doesnt work (as even in freeze temperatures, dmt is still too soluble in it so it doesnt precipitate), so there are 2 extra steps, which are to 'salt out' the limonene by mixing it with an acidic solution, evaporating that solution and then freebasing the resulting product if one wants to smoke it (or just keeping the salt for storage or oral consumption), as explained in the teks mentioned above. These steps are just as easy as any other step done in the earlier steps of the extraction but the fact that its two extra steps means some extra time and work which some people might not want.

There are also the standard STB (straight-to-base) teks that have been used a lot before the food-safe/limo teks, the two most common being [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Noman%27s_tek Noman's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Lazyman%27s_tek Lazyman Tek]. The mimosa (or whatever plant material extracted) is put straight in a basic solution from the beginning, with no acid-adding step, and hence the name. The advantage of STBs generally being that they need less steps, maybe simpler for beginners, and can usually be quicker, and the main disadvantage being the amount of lye/caustic soda they require (lye being dangerous if it spills because it causes serious chemical burns and could make one blind, though if done correctly it will not be on your final product. Also disadvantage of using much lye is it is watched in many places due to being used in meth production, so it might be suspicious to buy it, or even impossible to find, specially in some specific places of USA). Another possible disadvantage of STB teks is some people claim the final product is not as clean, its more yellow. Yellow dmt isnt necessarily a problem, though, some people even prefer it. Also, one can easily do a recrystalization (look below in the FAQ for explanation) which will effectively clean up the final product quickly and with very little solvent needed.

Then there are the A/B extractions (acid/base), such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Vovin%27s_tek Vovin's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Marsofold%27s_tek Marsofold's tek]. As the name suggests, the plant material is first simmered/boiled in acid 3x, filtered and later the base is added. The advantage being that when one is adding the base and mixing the solvent, the solids were already removed after the acid step, making it easier to mix the solvent, and easier to discard everything later. Also the acid step allows one to do a defat, though usually that is considered a wasteful way of cleaning up because it needs a lot of solvent for removing a bit of fats, which can be accomplished more efficiently with a recrystallization on the final product. The disadvantage of an A/B is that it takes longer because of the initial acid step, and if one isnt thorough enough in this acid step one will lose a lot of actives when discarding the solids before moving on to the Base step.

==== Links ====

* [[:Category:Extraction_Tek|Extraction Teks]]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1085 DMT Extraction Overview]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=318336#post318336 Art of liquid-liquid extraction - The basics]

=== What is the best tek? ===

There is no "best" tek. All teks featured in the Nexus Wiki should result in similar final product purity and yields, if correctly performed. Each tek has it's own characteristics regarding chemicals used, how long it takes, how thorough it's explained, if it includes optional clean up steps or not, etc. That is why, before deciding on one tek, it's important to read all (or at least some of them), also the "where to start" question above and the extraction overview linked there. That way you will have a better understanding of the processes instead of just blindly following a tek, which means you'll probably be more succesful with whichever tek you decide to use in the end.

=== Is my solvent/chemical OK to use? ===

Before using any solvent, one must make sure it is a clean evaporating solvent with no toxic/residual additives (or for other non-volatile chemicals used, make sure it has no toxic/unwanted additives). Always:

* Read the ingredients on the solvent's or chemical's label. Make sure it is pure with nothing appart from the desired chemical (for example: Naphtha/Aliphatic hydrocarbons)
* Google "solventbrand solvent/chemical msds", searching the brand of the solvent you have access to, to see if it has an msds, which usually contains more in depth information on what the product contains. For example "merck acetone msds". Or alternatively:
* Check the webpage linked in [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=165091#post165091 this thread] and see if your solvent and its contents is featured there
* VERY IMPORTANT: Always do an evaporating test before using a solvent for the first time: Add a quantity of the solvent to a glass/pyrex/plate (do NOT use a cd) and let it evaporate. If it leaves residues of any kind, dont use it. If it evaporates cleanly, chances are its ok to use.
* Check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=14772 this] thread on whether your chem is ok to use or where to get the right chems.

=== Is this material or container ok to use with my chemicals? ===

The keyword to search is "Chemical compatibility" or "Chemical Resistance", plus the material and solvent/chemical you are looking for. Below are some good links to help you already find the information you want:

==== Link ====

* [http://www.nalgenelabware.com/techdata/chemical/index.asp Chemical Compatibility Search]
* [http://www.coleparmer.com/techinfo/chemcomp.asp Chemical compatibility database 2]
* [http://www.greenterpene.com/GreenTerpene_Product_Compatibility_s/48.htm Limonene compatibility chart]

=== Is plastic OK to use for my extraction? ===

In short, better not. If you are going to use anyways (NOT recommended), be sure to check what kind of plastic it is, and that its compatible with the chemicals used, as in the links of the previous question. But again, better not use plastic and only use glass, read links below for explanations why:

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=26324 Warning to those using plastic containers]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=340124#post340124 Using plastic for extractions]

=== What are the different bases one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired base.

* For [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH
* For [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH, Potassium Hydroxide/KOH
* For [[:Category:Dry_Technique|Dry tek]]: Calcium Hydroxide

=== What are the different acids one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired acid.

Plenty of different kinds of acid will work, but generally people preffer the first one on the following list:
* Vinegar (acetic acid)
* Lemon Juice (citric acid)
* Phosphoric Acid
* Hydrochloric Acid/HCl/Muriatic Acid.

NOTE: Sulfuric acid is not very well suited towards this extraction, as it reacts with lye to form sodium sulfate which is very poorly water-soluble. This may result in a generous white precipitate.

Reaction:

2NaOH + H2SO4 => Na2SO4 + 2H2O

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1556 Acids]

=== How can I convert sodium bicarbonate into sodium carbonate ===

==== Link ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Conversion_of_Sodium_Bicarbonate_into_Sodium_Carbonate Sodium bicarb -> carb conversion wiki]

=== How long each acid cook? ===

30 min - 2 hours cooks in a crockpot on low-medium (or just low fire on the stove). Some people avoid boiling and only simmer, but it appears DMT salts are very stable even at boil temperatures, so there doesnt seem to be diminishing yields when boiling. Also, it's important to stir once in a while during the acid cook.

=== How many acid cooks? ===

General consensus talks about 3 runs, 2 being minimum and 5 being over-careful.

=== Can I make one long cook instead of 3 shorter ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== Which ratio of MHRB:Lye:Water is the best? ===

For STBs, 1g MHRB:1g Lye:15ml Water is generally accepted as a good ratio. People have had success with significantly less water, but 15ml per g bark is a recommended amount because less than that might make the whole mixture too thick and it can make the separation of the solvent more difficult. Also, one actually needs much less lye but this amount of lye helps prevent emulsions forming as well helps break down the plant material so that dmt is more exposed to the water.

Alternatively, one can just add enough lye for the solution to turn completely black, and go ahead and extract. If emulsions form, add more lye. One does not need to worry about over-basifying, there's no such thing. Excess lye will stay behind in the water layer once you separate the solvent in any case.

=== Can I scale down/up the amounts stated in a tek if I want to extract different amounts of mimosa? ===

Yes, just scale the quantities proportionally according to your situation

=== Can I make one big pull instead of few smaller ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be significantly smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

==== Links ====

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== How big should the pulls be / How much to pre-evaporate before freezing? ===

100ml per pull per 200g bark (or a 2:1 ratio of bark:naphtha) is a sensible recomendation. More wont hurt but it will waste solvent as you will have to evaporate much afterwards. Less solvent per pull is even better, as long as you repeat more pulls to compensate. Sometimes people use more solvent than this recommended amount, like when for example if using this ratio in one's container the layers are too thin and it is hard to separate the solvent (though there are [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#How_to_pull_.2F_get_the_solvent_off_from_the_mix.3F tricks for better separation]). If the plan is to freeze precipitate and one uses more naphtha than the recommended amount, it is recommended to pre-evaporate the naphtha before freezing.

The amount that one should pre-evaporate depends of course on how much solvent used. The idea about pre-evap is that the solvent should be as saturated as possible with dmt so that most or all of it precipitates when put in the freezer. If its not saturated enough, then not much (or not at all) will precipitate. So if one used more than 3:1 ratio of bark:solvent, then pre-evaporate enough to reach the equivalent of it (so if one used, lets say, 100ml per 100g bark, pre evaporating till a third of original volume is recommended). [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=150095#post150095 Here's] an attempt to explain why not having it saturated enough may result in no or low yield

Later pulls will most likely be less saturated with dmt than first pulls, so for the later pulls (like lets say the 4th and 5th), it would be logical to pre-evaporate even more than the first pulls. In the example given above, instead of evaporating until a third of original volume, maybe one could evaporate until there is only a quarter or a fifth of original volume.

Some people gauge the amount of pre-evaporation by doing it until the solvent starts getting cloudy.

In any case, remember to re-use the naphtha after retrieving the crystals from precipitation, and/or evaporating it all the way down to see if there are any actives that remained in the naphtha after the freeze precipitation

If one is extracting a different plant or using a different solvent, then the ratio recommendation can change. Though in extractions that one salts out the solvent (like for example in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] and other limonene-based extractions), one can (and even should) use significantly more solvent, because all alkaloids will anyways be retrieved with the salting step.

=== The layers wont separate, what to do? ===

Possible fixes:
# Dont shake next time, if you did so! Instead, Stir/roll/turn upside down slowly, several times.
# Add more basic water/lye to the mix (either mix is not basic enough or too much plant matter for too little water)
# Make a warm water bath with the whole container (remember no fire sources near solvents, and leave top slightly open for preventing building up of pressure)
# Tapping on the side of the container/vibration (like sitting on top of washing mashine)
# Adding plenty of no-additives non-iodized salt (will make the water more polar and therefore chemically help in the separation)

====Links====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5866 Naphtha won' seperate?]

=== My Solvent is Brown/Dark, what to do ? ===

It happens for some people that after mixing the solvent with the mimosa solution, the naphtha picks up a lot of color and when the layers are separated, there is no emulsion but the naphtha is very dark, brown/burgundy. The exact reasons for this are still unknown, but it seems to happen mostly with STB extractions, powdered bark and heated pulls. It may be that there are microscopic suspended particles of the mimosa/black liquid which for some reason refuse to settle, but nobody yet knows for sure.

Considering this is not an emulsion issue (if so, it can be solved as stated [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#The_layers_wont_separate.2C_what_to_do.3F here]), this issue can be solved by:

1- Wait a few hours and see if the color settles and the solvent layer gets clearer.

2- Separate the pull as you would normally, and do a sodium carbonate wash (explanation also here in the FAQ). If the wash isnt sufficient to get the dark away, then :

3- Do a 'mini A/B' (mixing the separated dark solvent with vinegar 3x, separating the vinegar and discarding the solvent. Then basify the vinegar by adding lye, and pull with fresh solvent)

=== How to pull / get the solvent off from the mix? ===

* [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Each person finds his own way. One of the practical ways is to first, with HDPE or glass pipette/turkey baster/glass syringe, crudely separate the solvent and maybe a bit of the mimosa mix into a tall thin container. Then, with another pipette/glass syringe (or same one, washed), separate the solvent (it will be easier due to being thiner container, so solvent layer will be thicker than before) to the final container for evap or freeze precip. On this second separation, only pull out what you are sure you can do accurately, and the last bit throw back into the main container. Often people complain that the turkey baster wont hold the solvent well and will start releasing liquid as soon as you stop pulling. A [http://www.plastyshack.com/images/glass_syringe.jpg glass syringe] or pipette will work better, you can find them sold in lab/chem/medical supply stores or online in a variety of shops.

* [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Same as above, or also using a separatory funnel.

=== Should I wash my spice? ===

Washing spice has as a main function to eliminate any possible lye or other polar impurities (like droplets of the mimosa basic mix) from the final product, which might make the smoke harsher. Nevertheless, unless one was sloppy and some of the basic mimosa liquid came through to the solvent when separating, there should be nothing or very small amounts of it in your final product.

In any case if one feels better making sure the spice is cleaner (because we all know how important our mental state is in these experiences, even if its clean but if you're worried it might make the experience worse), or if one's spice is unusually harsh, then proceed to a sodium carbonate wash (DO NOT WASH WITH AMMONIA! Many people report losing yield with ammonia wash )

# Have your product still in the solvent, before evaporation/precipitation. If you have already in crystal form, redissolve in a naphtha/heptane/hexane.
# Add anywhere in between a pinch to 5 grams of sodium carbonate (yes, doesnt matter... All that is necessary is for it to be a basic solution) to 100ml clean water.
# Add your spice-containing solvent and the sodium carbonate solution together in a container. Mix/shake/whatever (emulsions will not form).
# Separate the solvent from the sodium carbonate solution using pippette/turkey baster/syphon/separatory funnel. One can repeat steps 2-4 if desired, but not strictly necessary
# Freeze precipitate or evaporate to retrieve your DMT

Remember that regardless of washing, its still very important to make sure there are no solvent traces in your spice, which can be done with thorough air drying, or redissolving your dmt in a non-toxic (or less toxic) solvent like ethanol, or pure IPA/Acetone, and evapping that again

=== No precipitation or low yield? ===

# Stir/mix and let separate the layers many times over a longer period of time before pulling the solvent out of the mix, dont just let it stand.
# Evap till theres only a quarter of the naphtha left and repeat freeze precip. If this doesnt help:
# Add more lye/base in the basic solution and try again, with small warm, thoroughly mixed pulls
# If its evapped and it seems like small amount of goo, it may actually be more than it seems because goo is heavier crystals. Recrystallize goo as FAQ instructions or infuse some herbs and weigh herbs before and after infusing to know exact yield.

Other possibilities:
* Bad mimosa/plant material
* Not the right solvent (if solvent has aromatics like xylene mixed in, it wont freeze precipitate, and will evap into a gooey product, mix of dmt and other plant impurities)

=== Melting/dissapearing crystals after freeze precipitation / Whats the best way to retrieve crystals after freezing? ===

This usually happens because of remaining solvent residues warming up and redissolving the crystals.

A trick to work around that is to freeze precipitate for a day or so (if you already have the melted crystals, then redissolve them in small amounts of warm naphtha and back into the freezer), and after crystals have precipitated, take it out of the freezer, pour the naphtha off (through coffee filter just in case any crystals are not stuck to the container), close the container and put it upside down in the freezer for some more hours. This way, any remaining naphtha trapped inside the crystals will drop off to the lid of the container on the bottom.

So after those few hours, take out out of the freezer, opening the lid still upside down so the naphtha drops off, and then you can scrape the drier crystals, put them on top of a coffee filter or on a plate/petri dish to finish air drying, and voilá.

The container used for precipitation is ideally something with a lid that closes well, like a mason jar, and that the edges and walls are straight so you can scrape it off more easily. Scrape as much as you can of the dmt, and whatever is left inside, leave it and reuse the container for the next precipitation, or if its the last precipitation of the extraction, you can use some alcohol (or even naphtha, if its clean evapping naphtha) to pick the last bits up and evaporate in a dish or easy to scrape flat-bottom wide container.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=2290 DMT crystals melting]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=72767#post72767 Question about freeze precipitation times]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3519 Yellow goo. Won't crystallize]

=== How to safely heat a solvent ? ===

With the solvent safely stored far away, boil some water with any method you want. Once water is boiled, turn off heat source, get the solvent, put it in a glass and submerge the bottom of the glass on a pot containing your recently boiled water. In some seconds/minutes your solvent should be warm and you can use it for recrystallizing or pulling. NEVER warm up solvents directly with a heat source, specially no gas/open fire but even do not use electrical equipment unless it's a safe laboratory hotplate made for such purposes that will guarantee not to create sparks.

=== How does one recrystallize? ===

1- Boil some water. Turn off the fire.

2- Add your impure spice to a shotglass (weigh it before to know the amount).

3- Add around 20-30ml of naphtha/heptane/hexane per gram of impure spice to the shotglass.

4- submerge the bottom of the glass in the water. Leave it standing and/or stir it around a little bit. Most of the spice should redissolve in a few minutes, but probably a layer of goo will stay on the bottom.

5-Decant or pippette your naphtha away from the goo, put this naphtha in a clean container, close it, and into the freezer overnight for freeze precipitation. Alternatively, instead of freezing, if one wants to grow large crystals, put in a container with the lid semi-closed and/or in a place with very little air circulation, so that the naphtha evaporates very slowly. The slower the evap, the larger the crystal growth.

Its possible small amount of spice is still in the goo, so you can add another 5 or 10ml to the shotglass with the goo to pick up the last bits of dmt. This second pull will be more impure as it will pick some oils up, so freeze precipitate it separately. The goo can then be discarded

If one doesnt have a scale or for some reason cant weigh the spice, warm up a quantity of naphtha in a shotglass without the dmt and slowly add small quantities of the warm naphtha to the container containing dmt while stiring, until most dmt dissolved but a bottom layer of goo remains. Then follow step 5.
http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Can_I_make_one_long_cook_instead_of_3_shorter_ones.3F

==== Links ====

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=10545#post10545 Glass Shard Re-Crystallization Pictorial]

=== How many times can I reuse my solvent? ===

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=335995#post335995 On reusing non polar solvents]

=== What to do with the waste? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3072 What to do with the waste]

=== How Can I Extract DMT From Phalaris? ===

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phalaris_%28grass%29 Phalaris] is a genus of grasses with very variable alkaloid content, which means it's very hard or impossible to really say if a given Phalaris will have a good alkaloid content in terms of what alkaloids are present and in what amounts. Some Phalaris have very little to no DMT (or 5-MeO-DMT or Beta-Carbolines), and yet have plenty of potentially toxic alkaloids such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gramine gramine], while others have good amounts of wanted tryptamines and low gramine content. There are also tryptamines and beta-carbolines in Phalaris which have unknown activity and safety profile such as 5-MeO-NMT and others. This variability is especially the case with wild Phalaris or those grown from seeds so, for a more reliable alkaloid content, the clones of known strains such as AQ1, Big Medicine (for DMT) and Turkey Red (for 5-MeO-DMT) are probably a better bet.

'''Even though some people have reported some variable success, we do NOT recommend people to ingest a crude brew made with Phalaris grass due to the unknown amounts of possible toxic alkaloids. If using Phalaris, extract it first as mentioned below'''

If growing Phalaris yourself, [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/images/8/8a/Festiandsamorini.pdf this]publication goes over all the factors of growth that affect the alkaloid content. Please check it out. Here's some selected quotes:

* "The highest concentration (of alkaloids) is in the upper third part of the seedling leaf."
* "The total alkaloid concentration decreases with plant maturity"
* "Total alkaloids are more concentrated in the first regrowth, after the cutting or grazing, than in the first growth just after sowing, decreasing then in the following regrowths"
* "The availability of soil nitrogen increases the alkaloids concentration"
* "In soil, but not in nutrient solution cultivations, the concentration of indole alkaloids (...) increase is greater in plants supplied with ammonium nitrogen compared to the nitric source"
* "Samples of P. arundinacea growing with 20% of the full sunlight can contain an amount of DMT about twice compared to control; 5-MeO-DMT may increase up to a factor of 25"
* "DMT seems to show a maximum in the first hours of the morning, at least in shaded plants, whereas 5-MeODMT reaches a concentration peak in late morning"

Regarding the extraction itself, the plant should be extracted as soon as possible after harvesting since plant enzyme activity can break down alkaloids, even if drying the plant. If plant is not extracted immediately, it should be stored in an alcoholic solution in cold and dark. For extraction, a standard A/B could potentially work well, boiling plant material 3x in acidic water (pH anywhere from 1-6 should work), filtering, reducing to small manageable amount by low boil or simmering, and then basing with NaOH and pulling with solvent. Alternatively, a dry tek (check the nexus extraction teks wiki for more info) with calcium hydroxide or sodium carbonate could work but there haven't been enough tests to say for sure.

Regarding what solvents to use, hexane/heptane or equivalent solvents such as naphtha should work well as gramine is very poorly soluble in it, but if using naphtha make sure that it doesn't contain xylene or aromatics mixed in. Some people report specially low yields with naphtha and suggest cooking oil or room temperature limonene instead (check hippie salad oil tek link below) Cold/room temperature limonene also seems to work to separate tryptamines from gramine but more work needs to be done to make sure this separation is good enough. Check the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] for the most up-to-date info, since solubility tests on gramine are being done right now. If using naphtha or similar hydrocarbons, doing a recrystallization is a good idea to help removing other unwanted alkaloids that may have come across. Using less selective solvents like DCM, xylene, toluene or others (or acetone or alcohols in a dry tek) would pull the potentially toxic unwanted alkaloids, so its not recommended to use those, unless you do a clean up at the end

If you extract from Phalaris, we would be very thankful if you document the process (notes and/or pictures) and post so that we all can learn about the results, whether they are good or not. Please try smoking/ingesting only a very small amount at first if you do. Ideally, purchase colorimetric reagents such as marquis or ehrlich to help identifying the final product if it contains the wanted alkaloids (more info in the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] )

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=44863 Hippie salad oil tek v 2]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=16810&p=7 Phalaris way of the future thread]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=28869 PDF on processing phalaris]

=== Can I use another solvent like xylene after having pulled with naphtha? ===

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359465#post359465 Can SWIM Use Dif Solvents To Extract Different Ranges of Spice?]

== DMT Usage/Methods of administration ==

=== Is my spice ok to smoke? ===

Often people ask in the forum if their spice is ok to smoke, followed by a picture or description of the dmt's appearance. Nevertheless, there are several other variables which simple color does not tell, and which are essential to decide whether one shoud or not smoke it. Please check link below for detailed information:

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=11715 IMPORTANT: spice color purity fallacy AKA is your dmt ok to smoke ? ]

=== How to brew ayahuasca or analogues (mimosa hostilis / syrian rue)? ===

The standard way of brewing is to first of all have the material powdered/grinded or pounded as fine as possible. Then
* 1- boil on low fire (or simmer) the plant material for around three hours (some people do even longer but not necessary unless material is too coarsely shredded.. Also energetic/ecological costs become higher). Use mineral or distilled water ideally, some tap water can have too high pH and diminish yields/potency. Use enough water to cover the plant material.
* 2- filter/strain the brew to separate the liquids and solids, store the liquid separately,
* 3- add fresh water to the solids and boil everything again. Do this for a total of 3 or 4 times,
* 4- put the liquid from the 3 or 4x boils together, keep filtered/decanted solids separately for stp 6,
* 5- reduce the liquid on low fire/simmer to a manageable ammount, like for example 70ml per dose (dosages/amounts of each plant in [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this thread]

OPTIONAL:
* 6- If you want to be very thorough and get all the alkaloids out, you can now soak the plant material in vinegar for a day, then freeze and thaw it, then boil it for another hour or two. This should have a significant amount of alkaloids, which can either be extracted by basing and filtering like the Easy Caapi Extraction Tek, and the alkaloids added to the main brew (or consumed separately in some other occasion), or you could also consume this orally directly but due to the vinegar it will taste very bad, so it's better to at least base it with sodium carbonate slowly until it stops bubbling and/or reaches a pH of around 6, and then it will taste better.

The MAOI containing plant (banisteriopsis caapi vine or syrian rue) can be boiled together with the DMT containing plant (psychotria viridis or mimosa hostilis, or just add some extracted dmt in appropriate dosage to the caapi/rue brew), but specially if its the first time with a particular plant batch, its recommended to brew separately the two, and first find out the potency of the plant by drinking first a small amount.

An acid can be added to the brew (such as a dash of lemon or vinegar), but this is not strictly necessary (and neither the traditional indigenous way), specially if your plant is finely powdered, because alkaloids in the plant are naturally in water-soluble form. Though acid can increase the potency of the brew (specially for non-powdered plant material), it will also make it taste worse. To get the best out of all the worlds, its recommended to do step 6, so you have a better tasting brew without acid, but you still get any remaining alkaloids at the end in the final acid soak.

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8972 all about aya <3 ]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=51 Ayahuasca subforum]

=== Whats the best smoking method? ===

The [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] gives some tips not only on vaporizing methods but other tips, check it out.

Different people preffer different methods. FORGET THE LIGHTBULB METHOD as it only works for a small percentage of people, most report problems.

-
==== '''Vaporgenie''' ====

A big number of people in the Nexus claim the vaporgenie to be the best vaporizing method by far! The vaporgenie is claimed to be significantly more effective as well as having a much smoother vapor than other smoking methods so if one is having trouble with harsh smoke or low effects, try the vaporgenie out. The Glass VaporGenie is recommended but otherwise the classic one will work perfectly fine.

The first thing if you're vaporizing pure DMT, is to get a [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=42867 ceramic disc] or a volcano liquid pad and cut it up to fit the vaporgenie, otherwise the DMT will melt through the screens, even if it's multiple screens. Check the vaporgenie thread linked below for more details

Begin with the flame a few cms above the top and adjust as you go. With empty lungs, start inhaling slowly and steady. The idea is to inhale a dense vapour, but not too dense so that you start coughing. Its better to begin the inhaling with a not so dense smoke, and then make it denser towards the end. Keep the vapor in the lungs for as long as possible, at least 10 seconds. If you coughed or exhaled before this or couldnt inhale with all the lungs, try keeping the flame further away or adjusting the speed of inhaling so that its a bit less dense.

Usually it takes anywhere between 1-3 hits, or anywhere between 25-50mg for a full breakthrough, if you got your technique right. A torch lighter is recommended, but a normal lighter will also work fine.

- If you cant or dont want to afford a vaporgenie, a good possibility is to make your own vaporization tool like:

===='''amorfati's Inspirator MKII'''====

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8985 Link to how to build/use the Inspirator mKII]

For a vaporization to be really effective, the DMT should be heated by convection (hot air), not conduction (hot glass/pipe/material), so vaporgenie and inspirator are recommended. If you dont want to use these methods, there are other possibilities which are less effective and risk burning DMT instead of just vaporizing, but it does work decently enough for many people:

===='''- Bong/leaf bed/enhanced leaf'''====

One method also considered successful by some is in a water bong (or plain bong), with a couple of metal screens, a thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on the bottom, then the dmt in the middle, and then another thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on top.
It is essential to go very easy on the fire, because too much heat will degrade DMT. Keep the lighter as far away as possible so that it still vaporizes but doesnt over-heat your DMT
50mg seems to be a good dose if one wants to really go inside the dmt dimension. Inhale slowly and deeply, holding in the lungs as much as possible (at least a few seconds), exhaling, and then taking a second, third one if possible, and even fourth one if one still can. Even if after the first there are already some effects, if one really wants to breakthrough, gotta keep going as much as one can.

Specifically for enhanced leaf check link below

====''' The Machine'''====

Check links below

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=39961#post39961 VG VaporGenie: How to use, where to get, advantages, etc]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6014 Helps and tips for smoking spice]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=280594 My version of the "Machine" - How to make it in <15 minutes]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6131 Ban the Bulb - Modify the Machine]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to enhanced leaf changa]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5633 Thoughts on using a VaporGenie]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6317 Troubles with The Machine]

=== I dont get any effects/light buzz only, what to do? ===

99% of the times, when people do not get effects, they are having a bad vaporization method, most likely burning the sspice. Try one of the methods above, and considering it is dmt and one smokes it right, it should work. Other possibility is that one has a very impure product with too much plant oils and so on. One can perform one or more recrystalizations to get a purer product that is easier to weight accurately and vaporize, and then try methods above.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=86732#post86732 Trouble Breaking Through???]

=== Fear going into a trip ===

If you're afraid of dark things coming from inside of you and are not willing to face them, you should not consume any psychedelics at all...

If you're afraid but willing to face them, then that's another thing.

And whether it's changa, pharma, or aya or vaporized DMT, it doesn't matter much, those dark things can come out with one or the other.

A low dosage may help, yes, and so can a proper set and setting, but this is no guarantee you won't be facing what you fear the most. It can, and most likely will happen at some point, whether now or after a certain number of experiences. Whenever we take psychedelics, it's as if we sign a contract saying we accept all those possibilities. So think well before signing, and if you do sign, make sure to get all the preparations right before the time come, take it in a proper context and to humbly accept whatever may come, take responsibility for it, and learn from it.

==== Link ====

*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=470491#post470491 Suddenly concerned]

=== Denied breakthrough / Dark DMT trips / Not good experiences anymore ? ===

It happens with several people that they feel they aren't getting good experiences anymore, that the trips are consistently of dark motifs, negative feelings, or that the breakthrough is denied, regardless of dosage. There isn't a ready answer for why this happens, but it seems a few factors may be related to it. In many cases, this happens when people are having a regular or excessive DMT use, or when they haven't been dedicating enough to their daily lives, to [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration integration] of the experiences. Also, it may have in some cases to do with the intentions one sets before vaporizing the DMT, and with how one's mind state and the context in general is.

So a few tips on how to deal with this issue:

1- Take a break! The DMT hyperspace will always be there, there is no rush to go right now! Stop your DMT usage (and maybe drug usage altogether), dedicate to daily life, live a balanced healthy life, eat well, exercise, study, work. Do not obsess about DMT, try to only come back once you feel you have really made enough effort in improving your daily life. At least a few months break is recommended.

2- If and once you do decide to try it again, make sure it is a good place and time for it. Take care with using in the best set and setting possible (look further down the FAQ for recommended setting).

3- Do not smoke it impulsively. Meditate or spend a few minutes in silence, concentrating, breathing deeply and slowly.

4- Set your intentions straight. Question yourself why you are doing this. Try to have the best intentions and reasons as possible.

5- Use a good smoking method such as the vaporgenie or others as recommended above.

6- If it still doesnt work out for you, take an even longer break (many months/years), and/or stop it altogether. Realize that maybe DMT is just not for you. Its not a problem to admit one's relationship with a substance is not working, in fact, it shows you're being humble and conscious.

==== Link ====

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration Health and Safety section: Integration]
* [https://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=169680#post169680 what happened to the bright side?]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=13515 Vaporized DMT not having an effect in those who it has worked for previously]

=== What are the dosages for ... ? ===

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 Dosages and different forms of ingestion]

=== What is the best setting/context to consume spice? ===

Check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] for some tips on setting, preparation and also integration

* A comfortable quiet place is generally recommended. If there are friends around they should be requested to remain quiet while someone is embarking on this experience and only start speaking once the explorer talks himself and allows others. Possibility of telefone ringing or street noises or other interruptions is definitely NOT recommended.
* The presence of music or not depends a lot on personal taste. Some prefer full silence to 'concentrate' more deeply and mention that any stimulus keeps them too grounded in usual reality, while others can have very deep interconnected experiences with certain music of their own preference (often being some kind of chill out/ambient/ethno ).
* Many people preffer full darkness or indirect lighting, but sunset or sunrise in a nice nature place (if safe) can also be marvelous.
* Obviously '''DO NOT''' have sharp objects around, smoke next to cliffs, driving etc...
* It is very rare, but it may happen that one feels nauseated and/or vomits, so specially first times or those doing alone, its also recommended to have a bucket nearby, and to sit comfortably, resting the back against something soft in a way that you wont slip or fall, such as an armchair, bed with backrest/pillows or comfortable sofa.
* While we are not aware of any deaths, it would be irresponsible to discount the possibility that blocking your airway while deep in hyperspace could prove fatal, so be in a position/place where you are safe even if not conscious of the surroundings. During traditional ayahuasca ceremonies participants sit on the floor or in a comfortable chair. We recommend sitting upright (slightly reclined for stability) comfortably because the launch is far more immediate and surprising with vaporised DMT. Think of it as your pilot seat- you wouldn't fly a plane any other way!
* If you do not have a sitter to take the pipe from you, be sure that you have a safe and easy place very near to put it down when you feel hyperspace approaching. You will not be inclined to move your hand very far, so we would recommend a fireproof shelf of sorts less than a foot away. Just smoking cigarettes in bed kills many people every year, and obviously the same dangers are relevent with DMT. We have heard one report of a member who returned from an unenjoyable trip to find that she had dropped the pipe onto her leg, resulting in a nasty burn.
* Prior meditation or at least focusing on intention and inner calm can be benefiting.
* Remember to let go, dont struggle. Its normal that the hearbeat accelerates in the come up. Some people fear they are dying or that they wont return, but dont worry FOR SURE you come back, as it has happened with everybody else. Some people feel that they lose their breath, but its just a feeling.. As long as the airway is not physically blocked, then dont worry our body has a built-in mechanism that prevents one from stopping breathing.
* Dont be scared, entities cant hurt you in real life if you dont believe it. Try to not make 'good/bad' judgements during the experience, dont resist!! Just go with the flow of the ride. Some images may appear positive, negative, incredible, impossible to describe, etc, but you are safe regardless of what comes.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5900 Favourite setting for smoking DMT]

=== What about other ingestion methods (intranasal, intrarectal, Atomizer/E-cig etc) ? ===

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods Ingestion Methods]

=== Can DMT be IVed? ===

It can, but we do not recommend it mainly for two reasons:

1- The only official research done with DMT by Rick Strassmann used FDA-approved ultra pure DMT fumarate. The quality of home extraction products is questionable, one may have solvent traces and other impurities that could be uncomfortable, painful or downright dangerous to inject.

2- The onset of the effects are so quick that one might not be able to take out the needle in time and accidentally ripping their vein out while in hyperspace, or putting it down too near and rolling around/puncturing oneself

IF one is gonna do it inspite of contrary recommendations, then please: Take care in making many purifying steps (several recrystallizations/washes) and making sure it has no solvent or other chemical traces in the final product (redissolving the recrystallized product in USP grade acetone or ethanol and re-evaporating, scrapping and letting it dry completely before converting to fumarates in a sterile solution, etc.). Check the first link below for tips on how to prepare for injection and safety proceedures

Also, for the first try, take at most 0.2mg/kg, preferably less. And VERY importantly, [[do NOT do it by yourself]], have a sitter that is experienced with needles inject for you and be there to make sure you are physically safe.

==== Links ====

* [http://www.hipforums.com/newforums/showpost.php?p=6347899&postcount=5 Entheogen Review article on safe injection proceedure]
* [https://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4128 iv dmt]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1521 IV DMT]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3016 IV DMT?]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=144148 Injecting DMT]
* [https://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=7450 FASA safe for injection?]

=== How can I estimate the amount of mimosa? ===

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=236540#post236540 Estimating mimosa amount]

== DMT/Plant storage ==

=== Does DMT go bad? ===

The main degradation product of dmt seems to be dmt n-oxide, which is also psychoactive. Some people enjoy and find qualitative difference in n-oxide compared to dmt. On the other hand, other people report negative experiences with old spice, but it is unknown how much is self-suggestion and how much is really true. The rate at which dmt converts to n-oxide logically depends on factors such as air exposure and temperature, but so far there havent been any quantitative tests to tell how fast it goes in a given condition.

In any case, n-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

Many people convert the freebase to dmt fumarate for storage, as its claimed to be a more stable salt.

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1553 DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=302112#post302112 DMT oxidation rate]

=== Does mimosa go bad? ===

Generally mimosa should not go bad even after months/years. If it looks fine and doesnt have some mutant fungus growing on it, its perfect :) There are reports of people using mimosa that was for many months or even years in a drawer without any significant problem (though as with anything, its always more prudent to store in dark, dry, cold place).

The main possible degradation is of dmt into dmt n-oxide. Dmt n-oxide is also psychoactive, but it is not soluble in naphtha, which may cause some people to get small yields when extracting from older bark. N-oxide is soluble in limonene/xylene/toluene/etc, so one could extract it with those solvents without loss of yield. Alternatively, N-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

For oral usage of mimosa, formation of n-oxide wouldnt really affect much as it will be water soluble so one will still get the effects when consuming the brew.

==== Links ====
* [[DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3570 How long should MHRB keep]

=== Whats the best way to store DMT? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

In any case, one can also convert to dmt fumarate which is a very stable salt form of dmt

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4482 Long-term storage]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4867 How to store DMT for longest]

=== Whats the best way to store Mimosa? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

Logically, bark in pieces will keep better than when powdered

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1488 Storing mimosa hostilis]

== DMT Allies ==

=== What is jungle spice ? ===

https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359543#post359543
Jungle Spice is the product resulting from an extraction of mimosa hostilis using a solvent more polar than naphtha (such as xylene, toluene, limonene, ether, DCM, etc). Sometimes people also call it JimJam, which was first called only for limonene extracted products, but analysis shown it to be equivalent to what is extracted with xylene. Chemical analysis has shown that both naphtha as well as xylene/limonene extract mostly DMT (around 90%), plus around or under 1% 2-methy-1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-beta-carboline (2MTHBC) and NMT. The psychoactivity of 2MTHBC is unknown at this point, and NMT does appear to be psychoactive, though a quarter of the potency of DMT. Appart from these mentioned alkaloids, Xylene, when evaporated, and both limonene or xylene, when salted with an acidic solution like vinegar or FASW, also yield around 0.2% MTHBC (tetrahydroharman), and what could be 1,2-dimethyl-tetrahydrobetacarboline or a yuremamine degradation product (as suggested by dozuki in the jungle spice analysis thread linked below). Very little to nothing is known about these two 'extra' beta-carbolines in junglespice/jimjam, if they are psychoactive or can potentiate DMT.

Some people claim jungle spice to be stronger or produce a different experience than pure DMT. This may be self-suggestion (people thinking it is stronger/different therefore feeling it), it may be that the inactive oils/impurities present in jungle spice somehow protect DMT from heat, making a more effective vaporization, and therefore feel stronger. It may also be that the beta carbolines together, have a synergistic effect with DMT making a stronger experience, or it may be that these beta carbolines would only really be noticeable if they were in a larger quantity as is the case with some Acacias. It may be a mixture of any or all of the above possibilities.

Only further testing (such as blind self-experiments and more analysis) will help us isolating the variables and answer the questions on junglespice's activity

For more information on jungle spice, check the links below

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1115 Jungle Spice]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=10553 Jungle Spice chemical analysis]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23544 Entheogenic effects of NMT]

=== What is changa / How to make changa ? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Changa Changa WIKI]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to DMT enhanced leaf (changa)] thread
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=27537 How does your changa looks like ?] thread

=== What type of caapi/ayahuasca vine should I use, what are the differences ? ===

Different ethnobotanical suppliers seem to stock different varieties of caapi. Often they use color names (for example black caapi, white caapi, etc), or other names used by local / mestizos / indigenous people (caupuri, ourinhos, etc). The problem is that there is no consensus regarding the classification of different caapi vines, so some indigenous people may recognize 2 types, in another tribe they may recognize 10 types, and so on. These types may overlap or they may even be in contradiction with each other. Also botanists would not necessarily agree with those types, as sometimes classification from indigenous people is not based on how a plant looks, but also on its effects, purpose, etc. In fact, some of what is sold as "black/red/whatever caapi" may even be of a different genus/species altogether (more discussion on this on links below)

There is an ongoing analysis project going on with different caapi/ayahuasca vines (link below), and it seems some caapis have very similar alkaloid/chemical component even if they have different names, while others may have quite different content even if they are named the same. The difference can be in ratio of alkaloids or total alkaloid yield, for example some black caapi from one vendor yielded over 2% alkaloids, a black caapi from another vendor yielded 0.5%.

Regarding the type/function/effects of different caapis, at this point any conclusions and generalizations are not possible. As an example, at times it's said that black caapi is used for more witchcraft kind of rituals by some shamans, but this doesnt mean that: a- that particular group is "correct", b-that other groups would agree with what they call "black caapi", c- That the black caapi you find is equivalent to that, d- that you cant use it for another purpose and have a great experience regardless.

It may be that there is a pattern between alkaloid content of different caapi vines (some may have more harmaline, or more THH, etc), but at this point we cannot yet say. Also even if a correctly identified subtype of caapi would have a specific alkaloid content, we would still have to make the assumption that the vendors are actually identifying correctly.

If you want to decide what type of caapi to get, one thing you could do is check the suppliers section and see if this specific caapi from the specific vendor has been reviewed, and dont believe in generalizations (all caapi "X" is strong and gives dark trips, all caapi "Y" is light and for beginners). Start with low dosage (10-20g) for the first time to gauge the strenght of this particular batch you have acquired, and then raise the dosage accordingly if necessary.

Another thing to do is to buy at least 2 different types and then take them in separate occasions, and then sharing the results with the community, and that way we all grow together.

Do check the links below as they have very relevant discussions regarding the different caapi types:

==== Links ====
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29967 Caapi analysis thread]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32018 Poorly understood family of ayahuasca vines]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=30106 tetrapterys methystica (painted caapi) and other kinds of caapi]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=325495#post325495 Which caapi should I get ?]

== Plant sources ==

=== What are the best DMT-containing plants in my area ? ===

One good way to check what DMT plants you have around you is to look at the Nexus Wiki lists for [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT plants containing DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT] ) . Then use the search function of [http://www.discoverlife.org discoverlife page] or [http://bonap.org/genera-list.html bonap] to search the plants names and see in the species map if any of the good candidates grow near you, or alternatively, you can first identify the plants growing around you and search for their scientific name on the mentioned wiki lists.

If you don't find any plants growing around you, you can consider cultivating some ideal plants yourself, for example checking out the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=38229 Top Acacias To Grow Worldwide Thread] for the mid-long term, or getting known cuttings of phalaris with good alkaloid content such as AQ1 and big medicine (for more info check all the links in the first post of the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]) which can be harvested pretty quick

=== Does this plant contain DMT ? ===

Often people ask in the forum if the plant they have growing around them contains DMT. Then they might post pictures of the plants and expect an identification. Before that is done, the person asking needs to do some basic things:

1- Look up the information to know the plants that contain interesting alkaloids. The best resources are the Nexus wiki of plants containing [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT].

If it's an Acacia, read the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Acacia information thread] and if it's a Phalaris read the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]. Those threads contain information on seed suppliers, geographic location, season of harvest, conditions of growth and variation in alkaloid content, etc, which the person should become familiar with.

2-The person should try to identify the local plants based on the information in the above links. Posting picture of random plants without at least having some clue on what they could be, will only make everybody's life much harder. Look up images of suspected plants and compare, see in what they may differ.

3- Take detailed pictures of the different plant parts (overall plant, leaf close up front and back, seedpods and flower close ups if they are there). Often to differentiate between species the details are important, so blurry bad quality pictures or single pictures with no close ups or details of different plant parts are not enough.

4- Post your ID request in the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=358663#post358663 Acacia ID thread] if it's a suspected Acacia, or make a new thread if it's a differen't plant. Be sure to say what plant you think it is, and include information such as general geographic area, the detailed pics above, and any possible differences you may have seen with the plant you think it is.

5- If your plant gets identified and you plan on harvesting, please only harvest sustainably! Check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=344487#post344487 this] post for more information

=== Links ===

'''[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Containing_Plants WIKI -> DMT Containing Plants].''''

'''[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Botanicals WIKI -> Botanicals].'''

''' [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=369566#post369566 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace] '''

''' [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Trying to improve Acacia information] '''

''' [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33648 Acacia Identification Thread] '''

.

== Reference ==
<references/>

FAQ - DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide

2014-04-17T03:57:24Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Does this plant contain DMT ? */

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of the 'DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide'<ref>DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide
[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6341]</ref>.}}

== DMT overview ==

=== What is DMT, Where do I learn the basics? ===

DMT is a naturally occuring substance, present in trace amounts in normal human metabolism (and its purpouse is unknown, check question [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Is_it_true_the_pineal_gland_produces_DMT_naturally_and_is_involved_in_dreaming.3F 2.1] , as well as in a variety of plants and animals.

It can be extracted from some of these plants and smoked for some very strong psychedelic/entheogenic effects lasting 10 minutes. It can also be taken orally, but we have an enzyme (MAO) in our stomach that destroys dmt if taken orally, so for taking orally DMT must be acompanied by a substance that inhibits this enzyme (MAOI, or MAO Inhibitor), which is also present in some other plants.

Ayahuasca, a sacred drink used by indigenous people of the Amazon, is an example of a drink made from a dmt-containing plant (Psychotria viridis), together with a MAOI containing plant (Banisteriopsis caapi), that is drank orally for a psychedelic/entheogenic experience lasting around 4 hours.

When smoking, we do not need to use MAOI because we do not have MAOs in our lungs. Nevertheless, some people like to also ingest MAOIs before vaporizing DMT, or vaporizing a MAOI together with the DMT (such as in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ_-_DMT_Frequently_Asked_Questions_and_Troubleshooting_Guide#What_is_changa_.2F_How_to_make_changa_.3F changa]), to make the experience last longer.

For learning more about DMT, this whole webpage is dedicated to it. Here's a few links

==== Links ====

* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dimethyltryptamine Wikipedia DMT Link]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/ The Dmt Nexus Wiki]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ Frequently Asked Questions]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=forum Main Dmt Nexus Forum]

=== Are there different types of DMT? ===

DMT can be in salt form or in freebase form. A salt form means the DMT is attached to an acid molecule. DMT is naturally in salt form in the plants because of plant acids (for example dmt tannate or oxalate due to tannic or oxalic acid being present in some plants). When people extract DMT, they can make it in freebase form to smoke, because DMT in salt form can't be smoked, it has high boiling point and breaks down instead of vaporizing efficiently. Some salt forms like DMT fumarate can even be toxic to smoke due to creation of maleic anhydride during combustion.

Appart from being naturally in brews made of DMT containing plants like ayahuasca, DMT can also be made into salt for, for example DMT fumarate, when people extract it, because DMT fumarate is stable and can be stored for long, and it can be taken orally or intranasally. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods this] for more info. Regarding dosages in different salt forms, one can read [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this] thread. Each salt form of DMT have their own weight depending on the acid molecule weight (for example DMT fumarate's weight is around 76% DMT, 24% fumaric acid), so dosages could be adjusted proportionately to the amount of DMT when ingesting, but since each person is differently sensitive to DMT and since salt form may be a bit more effective to ingest orally, this "salt weight calculation" is not really necessary for DMT, one can just ingest according to [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 these] recommendations, starting low for first time, and adjusting according to own sensitivity and batch the next time.

There are other molecules which have the DMT structure built into them but they are not DMT, they have structural modifications, for example 4-HO-DMT also known as psilocin and 4-PO-DMT, psilocybin, the active compounds in mushrooms, which are different molecules altogether with their own particular effects. Small modifications in molecules can completely change effects. So psilocybin, psilocin, 5-MeO DMT, and 5-HO-DMT (bufotenine), plus others, are all different molecules, they are NOT the same as DMT. Each of them has different effects, pharmacology, etc etc. On the other hand, DMT freebase or DMT in salt form (tannate, acetate, fumarate) are all DMT.

== DMT Chemistry and Body ==

=== Is it true the pineal gland produces DMT naturally and is involved in dreaming and death? What does DMT do in the body? ===

At this point there is no evidence to support the claim that DMT is produced in the pineal or brain. It is a speculation raised by Dr Rick Strassman due to his previous interest in the pineal. So far in humans, the key enzymes necessary for this have [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=5549 not been found present in the human brain], therefore it seem more likely it is produced elsewhere in the body, though some recent research has shown in primates these enzymes are present in pineal gland. In any case nothing is really proven yet so we must avoid making claims before more data comes in.

The supposed connection of DMT and dreams, and the idea that DMT is released when we die, both are speculation with no real evidence to back them up.

It IS proven, though, for decades already, that DMT is produced in the human body and is present at all times in trace amounts, for unknown functions (which could be several functions, see last link below).

==== Links ====

*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18834 Zero proof DMT is made in the brain]
*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=295746#post295746 I dislike the "DMT is responsible for your dreams" theory]
*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18394 Rethinking DMT and the Pineal Gland]
*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18448 The functions of DMT in our body: If DMT would be a neurotransmitter]

=== Is DMT dangerous? ===

Researches have been made showing the relative safety of dmt. It does not cause physical damage, addiction, and any tolerance disappears very quickly. Ayahuasca, the dmt-containing brew from the Amazon, has been studied by multidisciplinary groups in Brazil and other countries and was shown that in a careful context, it presents no negative cognitive/psychiatric/social consequences, even in adolescents.

There is yet little research into vaporized dmt, but there seems to be no sign that it is in any way more dangerous physically than other administration forms. There are no reported deaths from smoking DMT. Smoking it will not lead to a dangerous overdose because the onset is so quick that one can only inhale a certain amount before being gone to ´hyperspace', without being able to smoke more until one is down again.

However:
* People with extreme heart or other conditions for whom strong emotions could be dangerous are contra-indicated, just like a roller coaster would for them.
* It is important to notice that with any psychedelic, it is a very powerful emotional/mental experience, so those with personal or family psychiatric history, unstable emotionally or going through some very difficult moments in life should be extremely careful.
* Also, it is possible that during the experience, one temporarily loses orientation in the consensus reality, so smoking/ingesting next to a cliff, sharp objects, etc, is not a good idea. BE IN A PHYSICALLY SAFE ENVIRONMENT!
* DO NOT use MAOIs (so for example an ayahuasca brew) together with stimulants or SSRI medication

Appart from that, there are psychological issues to be considered. Please read the health and safety section linked below, as well as the scientific articles also linked below.

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety Health And Safety Section]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1441 Scientific Articles on DMT/Ayahuasca/Psychedelics]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4400 Long term effects of smoking DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5843 DMT After-Effects]

=== Is a MAOI diet / Ayahuasca fasting necessary? What kind of dangers are there with medication interaction? ===

Unlike some pharmaceutical MAOI, the Harmalas, alkaloids present in the caapi vine and syrian rue are reversible inhibitors of MAO-A, while Tyramine, the component in some food that could cause problems in big amounts, is eliminated partly by MAO-A and but also partly by the intact MAO-B ([http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 source] ). Also for some pharmacological reason as shown in [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_fig9big.jpg this] diagram, tyramine can still be partly metabolized by MAO-A even during the harmala effects.

In other words, in terms of '''food''' interaction, the danger with reversible MAOI use (in for example ayahuasca or pharmahuasca with harmalas) and food interaction is very reduced. The necessity of the very strict dieting for ayahuasca with extensive list of what one must absolutely not eat is an exaggeration, though it is advised to eat light because extreme amounts of tyramine in some specific foods could theoretically still be a potential problem.

There seem to be no reports of actual life-threatening events with tyramine-containing foods and harmalas. There are even people that purposely ate tyramine-containing foods with no ill effects, but there have also been reports of negative symptoms such as very strong headaches and negative body load when mixing a heavy food consumption before/during/after harmala consumption. Several other variables may also be involved that are unrelated to tyramine and harmala-food interaction (variables such as for example exhaustion from the trip, vasodilation, the body/ayahuasca telling the person to 'eat better' in general, etc). Headaches seem specially common when mixing beer and harmalas.

In any case, it is generally considered common sense to eat light before and after the use of ayahuasca and analogues (and psychedelics in general). Just follow your good sense and you should be fine. To eer on the side of caution, the food to avoid eating (or over-eating) is aged or fermented food specially aged cheese, fermented or smoked meat (fish included) and soy products (though some soy products have also been found to have little tyramine content). Beer should also be avoided as some people have experienced negative interaction between MAOIs and beer. Apart from that, there are no real restrictions, eat lightly and all should be good :)

In relation to how long to wait after the last food before taking ayahuasca, this is very personal. Some like to have empty stomach and be fasting for 6 or more hours, but this is not necessary, and others feel it is even negative to fast for so long, because a too empty stomach might make one very tired during the ceremony, specialy at the end, and can also make purging a specially difficult or uncomfortable experience. Some consider better to have eaten something light (like some fruits or cereal or light sandwhich) a couple of hours before ingesting ayahuasca/analogues.

Remember: With the exception of moclobemide, which stands in the same category as harmalas as far as reversibility and food interaction goes, avoid all other pharmaceutical MAOIs !! Pharmaceutical irreversible MAOIs are VERY dangerous to take without taking strong precautions with food and drug interaction.

'''What IS dangerous is interaction between any MAOIs (including harmalas) and stimulants or some medication''' such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_serotonin_reuptake_inhibitor SSRI] medication such as prozac, or stimulants such as amphetamines or others. If you're taking SSRI's, do not consume MAOIs!! Do not mix stimulants with MAOIs either! Mixing stimulants/SSRIs with MAOIs can cause Serotonin Syndrome which may lead to convulsions or even death. For pharmaceuticals and substances that should NEVER be taken when consuming harmalas, check [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 1] and [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 2]

==== Links ====
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29131 Do you experience tyramine interaction with harmalas?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5711 Will smoked Rue cause MAOI?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5398 Think iv cracked it]
* [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=tyramine%20food%20table&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CFMQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fddr.nal.usda.gov%2Fbitstream%2F10113%2F7351%2F1%2FIND43817287.pdf&ei=PpvsT8zAEsXAhAehj-nPBQ&usg=AFQjCNGKR57Q_VTqzOjKxfvKbu0kDTB8Ng&cad=rja Scientific publication on food containing tyramine]
* [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 scientific publication on interaction of MAOIs and tyramine]

== DMT and Society ==

=== Is dmt legal? ===

Posession and sales of DMT in its pure extracted/synthesized form is illegal, schedule 1 in USA and controlled by United Nations and can land you in jail if found in most countries.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/dmt/dmt_law.shtml Erowid DMT Law Vault]

=== '''Are the natural ingredients such as mimosa, and ayahuasca, illegal?''' ===

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=21527 On the Legal Status of DMT Source Plants in the US (with a discussion of the religious use defense)]'''

==== Links ====

* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/ayahuasca/ayahuasca_law.shtml Erowid Ayahuasca Law Vault]
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/plants/mimosa/mimosa_law.shtml Erowid Mimosa Law Vault]

=== Whats the price of dmt / Can I trade dmt? ===

'''[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Attitude_Page#No_discussion_on_selling.2C_buying.2C_sourcing.2C_acquiring.2C_pricing.2C_trading.2C_mentioning_pending_deliveries_or_smuggling_of_drugs No discussion on selling, buying, sourcing, acquiring, pricing, trading, mentioning pending deliveries or smuggling of drugs].'''

'''DO NOT BUY OR SELL DMT!''' We at the nexus are against selling/profiting with this incredible substance. We do not know and we do not want to know how much it costs in the street, we do not want it to be sold on the streets! This is not only disrespectful and shows a lack of understanding about the power of this substance, but its also a liability for the whole community. Dealing/trading DMT can attract the attention of authorities and create a problem not only for yourself but for all others in the community.

'''Talking about DMT sales or trade will result in suspension from the forum!'''

All the reasons why we dont believe in it are listed in the thread below

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3414 Street Value of DMT (and why you should never sell it) ]

== DMT Extraction ==

=== Where to start? ===

There are several ways of extracting DMT, and different ways use different chemicals and take different time. It is recommended that before embarking on extracting, one reads up at least a couple of different teks (link on the bottom) to understand the processes.

The basics of an extraction is:

DMT is present in many plant materials and can be isolated through simple processes. Most commonly used plant is [[Mimosa hostilis]] root bark, but there are other plants with good alkaloid profile such as certain Acacias and certain strains of [[Phalaris spp.]]

DMT in an acidic solution is in salt form and therefore water soluble, while DMT in a basic solution becomes a freebase and not water soluble but rather soluble in non-polar solvents (like limonene, naphtha, xylene, etc). This works similarly to most other alkaloids, with a few exceptions, for example harmalas freebase dont dissolve in the solvents mentioned above, but when you add a base to a solution containing harmalas, they just precipitate and you can filter them.

Back to DMT, non-polar solvents separate from water like oil, it stays as a layer on top. By playing with the pH (adding an acid or a base) you make the dmt move from one place to the other while most of other impurities dont, and then you separate the layers by pippeting/separatory funnel/decanting, and then retrieve the dmt from the non-polar solvent by evaporating it or freeze-precipitating (putting it in a closed container in the freezer, and as the temperature goes down the solubility of dmt in the solvent diminishes, so after some hours dmt precipitates and can be retrieved). There are differences depending on the process of extraction you use (for example limonene can't be evaporated and neither freeze precipitated, it's usually salted, as described in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB], but that is, in a very general way, how it works.

There are some new developed teks for extracting dmt with food-safe materials and/or no petro-chemical solvents, such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] , [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Nontoxic_Approach_to_Spice_Extraction Amor Fati's approach], or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek Q21Q21's extraction tek]. The biggest advantage is, as said, the use of relatively non-toxic material and no petrochemicals but instead solvents such as limonene, which is basically pure orange oil. The disadvantage is that to retrieve the dmt from limonene, you cannot evaporate it (as limonene doesnt evaporate cleanly, it leaves gooey residues), and freeze precipitation also doesnt work (as even in freeze temperatures, dmt is still too soluble in it so it doesnt precipitate), so there are 2 extra steps, which are to 'salt out' the limonene by mixing it with an acidic solution, evaporating that solution and then freebasing the resulting product if one wants to smoke it (or just keeping the salt for storage or oral consumption), as explained in the teks mentioned above. These steps are just as easy as any other step done in the earlier steps of the extraction but the fact that its two extra steps means some extra time and work which some people might not want.

There are also the standard STB (straight-to-base) teks that have been used a lot before the food-safe/limo teks, the two most common being [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Noman%27s_tek Noman's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Lazyman%27s_tek Lazyman Tek]. The mimosa (or whatever plant material extracted) is put straight in a basic solution from the beginning, with no acid-adding step, and hence the name. The advantage of STBs generally being that they need less steps, maybe simpler for beginners, and can usually be quicker, and the main disadvantage being the amount of lye/caustic soda they require (lye being dangerous if it spills because it causes serious chemical burns and could make one blind, though if done correctly it will not be on your final product. Also disadvantage of using much lye is it is watched in many places due to being used in meth production, so it might be suspicious to buy it, or even impossible to find, specially in some specific places of USA). Another possible disadvantage of STB teks is some people claim the final product is not as clean, its more yellow. Yellow dmt isnt necessarily a problem, though, some people even prefer it. Also, one can easily do a recrystalization (look below in the FAQ for explanation) which will effectively clean up the final product quickly and with very little solvent needed.

Then there are the A/B extractions (acid/base), such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Vovin%27s_tek Vovin's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Marsofold%27s_tek Marsofold's tek]. As the name suggests, the plant material is first simmered/boiled in acid 3x, filtered and later the base is added. The advantage being that when one is adding the base and mixing the solvent, the solids were already removed after the acid step, making it easier to mix the solvent, and easier to discard everything later. Also the acid step allows one to do a defat, though usually that is considered a wasteful way of cleaning up because it needs a lot of solvent for removing a bit of fats, which can be accomplished more efficiently with a recrystallization on the final product. The disadvantage of an A/B is that it takes longer because of the initial acid step, and if one isnt thorough enough in this acid step one will lose a lot of actives when discarding the solids before moving on to the Base step.

==== Links ====

* [[:Category:Extraction_Tek|Extraction Teks]]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1085 DMT Extraction Overview]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=318336#post318336 Art of liquid-liquid extraction - The basics]

=== What is the best tek? ===

There is no "best" tek. All teks featured in the Nexus Wiki should result in similar final product purity and yields, if correctly performed. Each tek has it's own characteristics regarding chemicals used, how long it takes, how thorough it's explained, if it includes optional clean up steps or not, etc. That is why, before deciding on one tek, it's important to read all (or at least some of them), also the "where to start" question above and the extraction overview linked there. That way you will have a better understanding of the processes instead of just blindly following a tek, which means you'll probably be more succesful with whichever tek you decide to use in the end.

=== Is my solvent/chemical OK to use? ===

Before using any solvent, one must make sure it is a clean evaporating solvent with no toxic/residual additives (or for other non-volatile chemicals used, make sure it has no toxic/unwanted additives). Always:

* Read the ingredients on the solvent's or chemical's label. Make sure it is pure with nothing appart from the desired chemical (for example: Naphtha/Aliphatic hydrocarbons)
* Google "solventbrand solvent/chemical msds", searching the brand of the solvent you have access to, to see if it has an msds, which usually contains more in depth information on what the product contains. For example "merck acetone msds". Or alternatively:
* Check the webpage linked in [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=165091#post165091 this thread] and see if your solvent and its contents is featured there
* VERY IMPORTANT: Always do an evaporating test before using a solvent for the first time: Add a quantity of the solvent to a glass/pyrex/plate (do NOT use a cd) and let it evaporate. If it leaves residues of any kind, dont use it. If it evaporates cleanly, chances are its ok to use.
* Check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=14772 this] thread on whether your chem is ok to use or where to get the right chems.

=== Is this material or container ok to use with my chemicals? ===

The keyword to search is "Chemical compatibility" or "Chemical Resistance", plus the material and solvent/chemical you are looking for. Below are some good links to help you already find the information you want:

==== Link ====

* [http://www.nalgenelabware.com/techdata/chemical/index.asp Chemical Compatibility Search]
* [http://www.coleparmer.com/techinfo/chemcomp.asp Chemical compatibility database 2]
* [http://www.greenterpene.com/GreenTerpene_Product_Compatibility_s/48.htm Limonene compatibility chart]

=== Is plastic OK to use for my extraction? ===

In short, better not. If you are going to use anyways (NOT recommended), be sure to check what kind of plastic it is, and that its compatible with the chemicals used, as in the links of the previous question. But again, better not use plastic and only use glass, read links below for explanations why:

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=26324 Warning to those using plastic containers]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=340124#post340124 Using plastic for extractions]

=== What are the different bases one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired base.

* For [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH
* For [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH, Potassium Hydroxide/KOH
* For [[:Category:Dry_Technique|Dry tek]]: Calcium Hydroxide

=== What are the different acids one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired acid.

Plenty of different kinds of acid will work, but generally people preffer the first one on the following list:
* Vinegar (acetic acid)
* Lemon Juice (citric acid)
* Phosphoric Acid
* Hydrochloric Acid/HCl/Muriatic Acid.

NOTE: Sulfuric acid is not very well suited towards this extraction, as it reacts with lye to form sodium sulfate which is very poorly water-soluble. This may result in a generous white precipitate.

Reaction:

2NaOH + H2SO4 => Na2SO4 + 2H2O

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1556 Acids]

=== How can I convert sodium bicarbonate into sodium carbonate ===

==== Link ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Conversion_of_Sodium_Bicarbonate_into_Sodium_Carbonate Sodium bicarb -> carb conversion wiki]

=== How long each acid cook? ===

30 min - 2 hours cooks in a crockpot on low-medium (or just low fire on the stove). Some people avoid boiling and only simmer, but it appears DMT salts are very stable even at boil temperatures, so there doesnt seem to be diminishing yields when boiling. Also, it's important to stir once in a while during the acid cook.

=== How many acid cooks? ===

General consensus talks about 3 runs, 2 being minimum and 5 being over-careful.

=== Can I make one long cook instead of 3 shorter ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== Which ratio of MHRB:Lye:Water is the best? ===

For STBs, 1g MHRB:1g Lye:15ml Water is generally accepted as a good ratio. People have had success with significantly less water, but 15ml per g bark is a recommended amount because less than that might make the whole mixture too thick and it can make the separation of the solvent more difficult. Also, one actually needs much less lye but this amount of lye helps prevent emulsions forming as well helps break down the plant material so that dmt is more exposed to the water.

Alternatively, one can just add enough lye for the solution to turn completely black, and go ahead and extract. If emulsions form, add more lye. One does not need to worry about over-basifying, there's no such thing. Excess lye will stay behind in the water layer once you separate the solvent in any case.

=== Can I scale down/up the amounts stated in a tek if I want to extract different amounts of mimosa? ===

Yes, just scale the quantities proportionally according to your situation

=== Can I make one big pull instead of few smaller ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be significantly smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

==== Links ====

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== How big should the pulls be / How much to pre-evaporate before freezing? ===

100ml per pull per 200g bark (or a 2:1 ratio of bark:naphtha) is a sensible recomendation. More wont hurt but it will waste solvent as you will have to evaporate much afterwards. Less solvent per pull is even better, as long as you repeat more pulls to compensate. Sometimes people use more solvent than this recommended amount, like when for example if using this ratio in one's container the layers are too thin and it is hard to separate the solvent (though there are [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#How_to_pull_.2F_get_the_solvent_off_from_the_mix.3F tricks for better separation]). If the plan is to freeze precipitate and one uses more naphtha than the recommended amount, it is recommended to pre-evaporate the naphtha before freezing.

The amount that one should pre-evaporate depends of course on how much solvent used. The idea about pre-evap is that the solvent should be as saturated as possible with dmt so that most or all of it precipitates when put in the freezer. If its not saturated enough, then not much (or not at all) will precipitate. So if one used more than 3:1 ratio of bark:solvent, then pre-evaporate enough to reach the equivalent of it (so if one used, lets say, 100ml per 100g bark, pre evaporating till a third of original volume is recommended). [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=150095#post150095 Here's] an attempt to explain why not having it saturated enough may result in no or low yield

Later pulls will most likely be less saturated with dmt than first pulls, so for the later pulls (like lets say the 4th and 5th), it would be logical to pre-evaporate even more than the first pulls. In the example given above, instead of evaporating until a third of original volume, maybe one could evaporate until there is only a quarter or a fifth of original volume.

Some people gauge the amount of pre-evaporation by doing it until the solvent starts getting cloudy.

In any case, remember to re-use the naphtha after retrieving the crystals from precipitation, and/or evaporating it all the way down to see if there are any actives that remained in the naphtha after the freeze precipitation

If one is extracting a different plant or using a different solvent, then the ratio recommendation can change. Though in extractions that one salts out the solvent (like for example in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] and other limonene-based extractions), one can (and even should) use significantly more solvent, because all alkaloids will anyways be retrieved with the salting step.

=== The layers wont separate, what to do? ===

Possible fixes:
# Dont shake next time, if you did so! Instead, Stir/roll/turn upside down slowly, several times.
# Add more basic water/lye to the mix (either mix is not basic enough or too much plant matter for too little water)
# Make a warm water bath with the whole container (remember no fire sources near solvents, and leave top slightly open for preventing building up of pressure)
# Tapping on the side of the container/vibration (like sitting on top of washing mashine)
# Adding plenty of no-additives non-iodized salt (will make the water more polar and therefore chemically help in the separation)

====Links====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5866 Naphtha won' seperate?]

=== My Solvent is Brown/Dark, what to do ? ===

It happens for some people that after mixing the solvent with the mimosa solution, the naphtha picks up a lot of color and when the layers are separated, there is no emulsion but the naphtha is very dark, brown/burgundy. The exact reasons for this are still unknown, but it seems to happen mostly with STB extractions, powdered bark and heated pulls. It may be that there are microscopic suspended particles of the mimosa/black liquid which for some reason refuse to settle, but nobody yet knows for sure.

Considering this is not an emulsion issue (if so, it can be solved as stated [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#The_layers_wont_separate.2C_what_to_do.3F here]), this issue can be solved by:

1- Wait a few hours and see if the color settles and the solvent layer gets clearer.

2- Separate the pull as you would normally, and do a sodium carbonate wash (explanation also here in the FAQ). If the wash isnt sufficient to get the dark away, then :

3- Do a 'mini A/B' (mixing the separated dark solvent with vinegar 3x, separating the vinegar and discarding the solvent. Then basify the vinegar by adding lye, and pull with fresh solvent)

=== How to pull / get the solvent off from the mix? ===

* [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Each person finds his own way. One of the practical ways is to first, with HDPE or glass pipette/turkey baster/glass syringe, crudely separate the solvent and maybe a bit of the mimosa mix into a tall thin container. Then, with another pipette/glass syringe (or same one, washed), separate the solvent (it will be easier due to being thiner container, so solvent layer will be thicker than before) to the final container for evap or freeze precip. On this second separation, only pull out what you are sure you can do accurately, and the last bit throw back into the main container. Often people complain that the turkey baster wont hold the solvent well and will start releasing liquid as soon as you stop pulling. A [http://www.plastyshack.com/images/glass_syringe.jpg glass syringe] or pipette will work better, you can find them sold in lab/chem/medical supply stores or online in a variety of shops.

* [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Same as above, or also using a separatory funnel.

=== Should I wash my spice? ===

Washing spice has as a main function to eliminate any possible lye or other polar impurities (like droplets of the mimosa basic mix) from the final product, which might make the smoke harsher. Nevertheless, unless one was sloppy and some of the basic mimosa liquid came through to the solvent when separating, there should be nothing or very small amounts of it in your final product.

In any case if one feels better making sure the spice is cleaner (because we all know how important our mental state is in these experiences, even if its clean but if you're worried it might make the experience worse), or if one's spice is unusually harsh, then proceed to a sodium carbonate wash (DO NOT WASH WITH AMMONIA! Many people report losing yield with ammonia wash )

# Have your product still in the solvent, before evaporation/precipitation. If you have already in crystal form, redissolve in a naphtha/heptane/hexane.
# Add anywhere in between a pinch to 5 grams of sodium carbonate (yes, doesnt matter... All that is necessary is for it to be a basic solution) to 100ml clean water.
# Add your spice-containing solvent and the sodium carbonate solution together in a container. Mix/shake/whatever (emulsions will not form).
# Separate the solvent from the sodium carbonate solution using pippette/turkey baster/syphon/separatory funnel. One can repeat steps 2-4 if desired, but not strictly necessary
# Freeze precipitate or evaporate to retrieve your DMT

Remember that regardless of washing, its still very important to make sure there are no solvent traces in your spice, which can be done with thorough air drying, or redissolving your dmt in a non-toxic (or less toxic) solvent like ethanol, or pure IPA/Acetone, and evapping that again

=== No precipitation or low yield? ===

# Stir/mix and let separate the layers many times over a longer period of time before pulling the solvent out of the mix, dont just let it stand.
# Evap till theres only a quarter of the naphtha left and repeat freeze precip. If this doesnt help:
# Add more lye/base in the basic solution and try again, with small warm, thoroughly mixed pulls
# If its evapped and it seems like small amount of goo, it may actually be more than it seems because goo is heavier crystals. Recrystallize goo as FAQ instructions or infuse some herbs and weigh herbs before and after infusing to know exact yield.

Other possibilities:
* Bad mimosa/plant material
* Not the right solvent (if solvent has aromatics like xylene mixed in, it wont freeze precipitate, and will evap into a gooey product, mix of dmt and other plant impurities)

=== Melting/dissapearing crystals after freeze precipitation / Whats the best way to retrieve crystals after freezing? ===

This usually happens because of remaining solvent residues warming up and redissolving the crystals.

A trick to work around that is to freeze precipitate for a day or so (if you already have the melted crystals, then redissolve them in small amounts of warm naphtha and back into the freezer), and after crystals have precipitated, take it out of the freezer, pour the naphtha off (through coffee filter just in case any crystals are not stuck to the container), close the container and put it upside down in the freezer for some more hours. This way, any remaining naphtha trapped inside the crystals will drop off to the lid of the container on the bottom.

So after those few hours, take out out of the freezer, opening the lid still upside down so the naphtha drops off, and then you can scrape the drier crystals, put them on top of a coffee filter or on a plate/petri dish to finish air drying, and voilá.

The container used for precipitation is ideally something with a lid that closes well, like a mason jar, and that the edges and walls are straight so you can scrape it off more easily. Scrape as much as you can of the dmt, and whatever is left inside, leave it and reuse the container for the next precipitation, or if its the last precipitation of the extraction, you can use some alcohol (or even naphtha, if its clean evapping naphtha) to pick the last bits up and evaporate in a dish or easy to scrape flat-bottom wide container.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=2290 DMT crystals melting]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=72767#post72767 Question about freeze precipitation times]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3519 Yellow goo. Won't crystallize]

=== How to safely heat a solvent ? ===

With the solvent safely stored far away, boil some water with any method you want. Once water is boiled, turn off heat source, get the solvent, put it in a glass and submerge the bottom of the glass on a pot containing your recently boiled water. In some seconds/minutes your solvent should be warm and you can use it for recrystallizing or pulling. NEVER warm up solvents directly with a heat source, specially no gas/open fire but even do not use electrical equipment unless it's a safe laboratory hotplate made for such purposes that will guarantee not to create sparks.

=== How does one recrystallize? ===

1- Boil some water. Turn off the fire.

2- Add your impure spice to a shotglass (weigh it before to know the amount).

3- Add around 20-30ml of naphtha/heptane/hexane per gram of impure spice to the shotglass.

4- submerge the bottom of the glass in the water. Leave it standing and/or stir it around a little bit. Most of the spice should redissolve in a few minutes, but probably a layer of goo will stay on the bottom.

5-Decant or pippette your naphtha away from the goo, put this naphtha in a clean container, close it, and into the freezer overnight for freeze precipitation. Alternatively, instead of freezing, if one wants to grow large crystals, put in a container with the lid semi-closed and/or in a place with very little air circulation, so that the naphtha evaporates very slowly. The slower the evap, the larger the crystal growth.

Its possible small amount of spice is still in the goo, so you can add another 5 or 10ml to the shotglass with the goo to pick up the last bits of dmt. This second pull will be more impure as it will pick some oils up, so freeze precipitate it separately. The goo can then be discarded

If one doesnt have a scale or for some reason cant weigh the spice, warm up a quantity of naphtha in a shotglass without the dmt and slowly add small quantities of the warm naphtha to the container containing dmt while stiring, until most dmt dissolved but a bottom layer of goo remains. Then follow step 5.
http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Can_I_make_one_long_cook_instead_of_3_shorter_ones.3F

==== Links ====

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=10545#post10545 Glass Shard Re-Crystallization Pictorial]

=== How many times can I reuse my solvent? ===

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=335995#post335995 On reusing non polar solvents]

=== What to do with the waste? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3072 What to do with the waste]

=== How Can I Extract DMT From Phalaris? ===

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phalaris_%28grass%29 Phalaris] is a genus of grasses with very variable alkaloid content, which means it's very hard or impossible to really say if a given Phalaris will have a good alkaloid content in terms of what alkaloids are present and in what amounts. Some Phalaris have very little to no DMT (or 5-MeO-DMT or Beta-Carbolines), and yet have plenty of potentially toxic alkaloids such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gramine gramine], while others have good amounts of wanted tryptamines and low gramine content. There are also tryptamines and beta-carbolines in Phalaris which have unknown activity and safety profile such as 5-MeO-NMT and others. This variability is especially the case with wild Phalaris or those grown from seeds so, for a more reliable alkaloid content, the clones of known strains such as AQ1, Big Medicine (for DMT) and Turkey Red (for 5-MeO-DMT) are probably a better bet.

'''Even though some people have reported some variable success, we do NOT recommend people to ingest a crude brew made with Phalaris grass due to the unknown amounts of possible toxic alkaloids. If using Phalaris, extract it first as mentioned below'''

If growing Phalaris yourself, [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/images/8/8a/Festiandsamorini.pdf this]publication goes over all the factors of growth that affect the alkaloid content. Please check it out. Here's some selected quotes:

* "The highest concentration (of alkaloids) is in the upper third part of the seedling leaf."
* "The total alkaloid concentration decreases with plant maturity"
* "Total alkaloids are more concentrated in the first regrowth, after the cutting or grazing, than in the first growth just after sowing, decreasing then in the following regrowths"
* "The availability of soil nitrogen increases the alkaloids concentration"
* "In soil, but not in nutrient solution cultivations, the concentration of indole alkaloids (...) increase is greater in plants supplied with ammonium nitrogen compared to the nitric source"
* "Samples of P. arundinacea growing with 20% of the full sunlight can contain an amount of DMT about twice compared to control; 5-MeO-DMT may increase up to a factor of 25"
* "DMT seems to show a maximum in the first hours of the morning, at least in shaded plants, whereas 5-MeODMT reaches a concentration peak in late morning"

Regarding the extraction itself, the plant should be extracted as soon as possible after harvesting since plant enzyme activity can break down alkaloids, even if drying the plant. If plant is not extracted immediately, it should be stored in an alcoholic solution in cold and dark. For extraction, a standard A/B could potentially work well, boiling plant material 3x in acidic water (pH anywhere from 1-6 should work), filtering, reducing to small manageable amount by low boil or simmering, and then basing with NaOH and pulling with solvent. Alternatively, a dry tek (check the nexus extraction teks wiki for more info) with calcium hydroxide or sodium carbonate could work but there haven't been enough tests to say for sure.

Regarding what solvents to use, hexane/heptane or equivalent solvents such as naphtha should work well as gramine is very poorly soluble in it, but if using naphtha make sure that it doesn't contain xylene or aromatics mixed in. Some people report specially low yields with naphtha and suggest cooking oil or room temperature limonene instead (check hippie salad oil tek link below) Cold/room temperature limonene also seems to work to separate tryptamines from gramine but more work needs to be done to make sure this separation is good enough. Check the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] for the most up-to-date info, since solubility tests on gramine are being done right now. If using naphtha or similar hydrocarbons, doing a recrystallization is a good idea to help removing other unwanted alkaloids that may have come across. Using less selective solvents like DCM, xylene, toluene or others (or acetone or alcohols in a dry tek) would pull the potentially toxic unwanted alkaloids, so its not recommended to use those, unless you do a clean up at the end

If you extract from Phalaris, we would be very thankful if you document the process (notes and/or pictures) and post so that we all can learn about the results, whether they are good or not. Please try smoking/ingesting only a very small amount at first if you do. Ideally, purchase colorimetric reagents such as marquis or ehrlich to help identifying the final product if it contains the wanted alkaloids (more info in the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] )

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=44863 Hippie salad oil tek v 2]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=16810&p=7 Phalaris way of the future thread]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=28869 PDF on processing phalaris]

=== Can I use another solvent like xylene after having pulled with naphtha? ===

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359465#post359465 Can SWIM Use Dif Solvents To Extract Different Ranges of Spice?]

== DMT Usage/Methods of administration ==

=== Is my spice ok to smoke? ===

Often people ask in the forum if their spice is ok to smoke, followed by a picture or description of the dmt's appearance. Nevertheless, there are several other variables which simple color does not tell, and which are essential to decide whether one shoud or not smoke it. Please check link below for detailed information:

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=11715 IMPORTANT: spice color purity fallacy AKA is your dmt ok to smoke ? ]

=== How to brew ayahuasca or analogues (mimosa hostilis / syrian rue)? ===

The standard way of brewing is to first of all have the material powdered/grinded or pounded as fine as possible. Then
* 1- boil on low fire (or simmer) the plant material for around three hours (some people do even longer but not necessary unless material is too coarsely shredded.. Also energetic/ecological costs become higher). Use mineral or distilled water ideally, some tap water can have too high pH and diminish yields/potency. Use enough water to cover the plant material.
* 2- filter/strain the brew to separate the liquids and solids, store the liquid separately,
* 3- add fresh water to the solids and boil everything again. Do this for a total of 3 or 4 times,
* 4- put the liquid from the 3 or 4x boils together, keep filtered/decanted solids separately for stp 6,
* 5- reduce the liquid on low fire/simmer to a manageable ammount, like for example 70ml per dose (dosages/amounts of each plant in [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this thread]

OPTIONAL:
* 6- If you want to be very thorough and get all the alkaloids out, you can now soak the plant material in vinegar for a day, then freeze and thaw it, then boil it for another hour or two. This should have a significant amount of alkaloids, which can either be extracted by basing and filtering like the Easy Caapi Extraction Tek, and the alkaloids added to the main brew (or consumed separately in some other occasion), or you could also consume this orally directly but due to the vinegar it will taste very bad, so it's better to at least base it with sodium carbonate slowly until it stops bubbling and/or reaches a pH of around 6, and then it will taste better.

The MAOI containing plant (banisteriopsis caapi vine or syrian rue) can be boiled together with the DMT containing plant (psychotria viridis or mimosa hostilis, or just add some extracted dmt in appropriate dosage to the caapi/rue brew), but specially if its the first time with a particular plant batch, its recommended to brew separately the two, and first find out the potency of the plant by drinking first a small amount.

An acid can be added to the brew (such as a dash of lemon or vinegar), but this is not strictly necessary (and neither the traditional indigenous way), specially if your plant is finely powdered, because alkaloids in the plant are naturally in water-soluble form. Though acid can increase the potency of the brew (specially for non-powdered plant material), it will also make it taste worse. To get the best out of all the worlds, its recommended to do step 6, so you have a better tasting brew without acid, but you still get any remaining alkaloids at the end in the final acid soak.

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8972 all about aya <3 ]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=51 Ayahuasca subforum]

=== Whats the best smoking method? ===

The [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] gives some tips not only on vaporizing methods but other tips, check it out.

Different people preffer different methods. FORGET THE LIGHTBULB METHOD as it only works for a small percentage of people, most report problems.

-
==== '''Vaporgenie''' ====

A big number of people in the Nexus claim the vaporgenie to be the best vaporizing method by far! The vaporgenie is claimed to be significantly more effective as well as having a much smoother vapor than other smoking methods so if one is having trouble with harsh smoke or low effects, try the vaporgenie out. The Glass VaporGenie is recommended but otherwise the classic one will work perfectly fine.

The first thing if you're vaporizing pure DMT, is to get a [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=42867 ceramic disc] or a volcano liquid pad and cut it up to fit the vaporgenie, otherwise the DMT will melt through the screens, even if it's multiple screens. Check the vaporgenie thread linked below for more details

Begin with the flame a few cms above the top and adjust as you go. With empty lungs, start inhaling slowly and steady. The idea is to inhale a dense vapour, but not too dense so that you start coughing. Its better to begin the inhaling with a not so dense smoke, and then make it denser towards the end. Keep the vapor in the lungs for as long as possible, at least 10 seconds. If you coughed or exhaled before this or couldnt inhale with all the lungs, try keeping the flame further away or adjusting the speed of inhaling so that its a bit less dense.

Usually it takes anywhere between 1-3 hits, or anywhere between 25-50mg for a full breakthrough, if you got your technique right. A torch lighter is recommended, but a normal lighter will also work fine.

- If you cant or dont want to afford a vaporgenie, a good possibility is to make your own vaporization tool like:

===='''amorfati's Inspirator MKII'''====

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8985 Link to how to build/use the Inspirator mKII]

For a vaporization to be really effective, the DMT should be heated by convection (hot air), not conduction (hot glass/pipe/material), so vaporgenie and inspirator are recommended. If you dont want to use these methods, there are other possibilities which are less effective and risk burning DMT instead of just vaporizing, but it does work decently enough for many people:

===='''- Bong/leaf bed/enhanced leaf'''====

One method also considered successful by some is in a water bong (or plain bong), with a couple of metal screens, a thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on the bottom, then the dmt in the middle, and then another thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on top.
It is essential to go very easy on the fire, because too much heat will degrade DMT. Keep the lighter as far away as possible so that it still vaporizes but doesnt over-heat your DMT
50mg seems to be a good dose if one wants to really go inside the dmt dimension. Inhale slowly and deeply, holding in the lungs as much as possible (at least a few seconds), exhaling, and then taking a second, third one if possible, and even fourth one if one still can. Even if after the first there are already some effects, if one really wants to breakthrough, gotta keep going as much as one can.

Specifically for enhanced leaf check link below

====''' The Machine'''====

Check links below

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=39961#post39961 VG VaporGenie: How to use, where to get, advantages, etc]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6014 Helps and tips for smoking spice]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=280594 My version of the "Machine" - How to make it in <15 minutes]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6131 Ban the Bulb - Modify the Machine]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to enhanced leaf changa]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5633 Thoughts on using a VaporGenie]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6317 Troubles with The Machine]

=== I dont get any effects/light buzz only, what to do? ===

99% of the times, when people do not get effects, they are having a bad vaporization method, most likely burning the sspice. Try one of the methods above, and considering it is dmt and one smokes it right, it should work. Other possibility is that one has a very impure product with too much plant oils and so on. One can perform one or more recrystalizations to get a purer product that is easier to weight accurately and vaporize, and then try methods above.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=86732#post86732 Trouble Breaking Through???]

=== Fear going into a trip ===

If you're afraid of dark things coming from inside of you and are not willing to face them, you should not consume any psychedelics at all...

If you're afraid but willing to face them, then that's another thing.

And whether it's changa, pharma, or aya or vaporized DMT, it doesn't matter much, those dark things can come out with one or the other.

A low dosage may help, yes, and so can a proper set and setting, but this is no guarantee you won't be facing what you fear the most. It can, and most likely will happen at some point, whether now or after a certain number of experiences. Whenever we take psychedelics, it's as if we sign a contract saying we accept all those possibilities. So think well before signing, and if you do sign, make sure to get all the preparations right before the time come, take it in a proper context and to humbly accept whatever may come, take responsibility for it, and learn from it.

==== Link ====

*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=470491#post470491 Suddenly concerned]

=== Denied breakthrough / Dark DMT trips / Not good experiences anymore ? ===

It happens with several people that they feel they aren't getting good experiences anymore, that the trips are consistently of dark motifs, negative feelings, or that the breakthrough is denied, regardless of dosage. There isn't a ready answer for why this happens, but it seems a few factors may be related to it. In many cases, this happens when people are having a regular or excessive DMT use, or when they haven't been dedicating enough to their daily lives, to [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration integration] of the experiences. Also, it may have in some cases to do with the intentions one sets before vaporizing the DMT, and with how one's mind state and the context in general is.

So a few tips on how to deal with this issue:

1- Take a break! The DMT hyperspace will always be there, there is no rush to go right now! Stop your DMT usage (and maybe drug usage altogether), dedicate to daily life, live a balanced healthy life, eat well, exercise, study, work. Do not obsess about DMT, try to only come back once you feel you have really made enough effort in improving your daily life. At least a few months break is recommended.

2- If and once you do decide to try it again, make sure it is a good place and time for it. Take care with using in the best set and setting possible (look further down the FAQ for recommended setting).

3- Do not smoke it impulsively. Meditate or spend a few minutes in silence, concentrating, breathing deeply and slowly.

4- Set your intentions straight. Question yourself why you are doing this. Try to have the best intentions and reasons as possible.

5- Use a good smoking method such as the vaporgenie or others as recommended above.

6- If it still doesnt work out for you, take an even longer break (many months/years), and/or stop it altogether. Realize that maybe DMT is just not for you. Its not a problem to admit one's relationship with a substance is not working, in fact, it shows you're being humble and conscious.

==== Link ====

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration Health and Safety section: Integration]
* [https://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=169680#post169680 what happened to the bright side?]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=13515 Vaporized DMT not having an effect in those who it has worked for previously]

=== What are the dosages for ... ? ===

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 Dosages and different forms of ingestion]

=== What is the best setting/context to consume spice? ===

Check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] for some tips on setting, preparation and also integration

* A comfortable quiet place is generally recommended. If there are friends around they should be requested to remain quiet while someone is embarking on this experience and only start speaking once the explorer talks himself and allows others. Possibility of telefone ringing or street noises or other interruptions is definitely NOT recommended.
* The presence of music or not depends a lot on personal taste. Some prefer full silence to 'concentrate' more deeply and mention that any stimulus keeps them too grounded in usual reality, while others can have very deep interconnected experiences with certain music of their own preference (often being some kind of chill out/ambient/ethno ).
* Many people preffer full darkness or indirect lighting, but sunset or sunrise in a nice nature place (if safe) can also be marvelous.
* Obviously '''DO NOT''' have sharp objects around, smoke next to cliffs, driving etc...
* It is very rare, but it may happen that one feels nauseated and/or vomits, so specially first times or those doing alone, its also recommended to have a bucket nearby, and to sit comfortably, resting the back against something soft in a way that you wont slip or fall, such as an armchair, bed with backrest/pillows or comfortable sofa.
* While we are not aware of any deaths, it would be irresponsible to discount the possibility that blocking your airway while deep in hyperspace could prove fatal, so be in a position/place where you are safe even if not conscious of the surroundings. During traditional ayahuasca ceremonies participants sit on the floor or in a comfortable chair. We recommend sitting upright (slightly reclined for stability) comfortably because the launch is far more immediate and surprising with vaporised DMT. Think of it as your pilot seat- you wouldn't fly a plane any other way!
* If you do not have a sitter to take the pipe from you, be sure that you have a safe and easy place very near to put it down when you feel hyperspace approaching. You will not be inclined to move your hand very far, so we would recommend a fireproof shelf of sorts less than a foot away. Just smoking cigarettes in bed kills many people every year, and obviously the same dangers are relevent with DMT. We have heard one report of a member who returned from an unenjoyable trip to find that she had dropped the pipe onto her leg, resulting in a nasty burn.
* Prior meditation or at least focusing on intention and inner calm can be benefiting.
* Remember to let go, dont struggle. Its normal that the hearbeat accelerates in the come up. Some people fear they are dying or that they wont return, but dont worry FOR SURE you come back, as it has happened with everybody else. Some people feel that they lose their breath, but its just a feeling.. As long as the airway is not physically blocked, then dont worry our body has a built-in mechanism that prevents one from stopping breathing.
* Dont be scared, entities cant hurt you in real life if you dont believe it. Try to not make 'good/bad' judgements during the experience, dont resist!! Just go with the flow of the ride. Some images may appear positive, negative, incredible, impossible to describe, etc, but you are safe regardless of what comes.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5900 Favourite setting for smoking DMT]

=== What about other ingestion methods (intranasal, intrarectal, Atomizer/E-cig etc) ? ===

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods Ingestion Methods]

=== Can DMT be IVed? ===

It can, but we do not recommend it mainly for two reasons:

1- The only official research done with DMT by Rick Strassmann used FDA-approved ultra pure DMT fumarate. The quality of home extraction products is questionable, one may have solvent traces and other impurities that could be uncomfortable, painful or downright dangerous to inject.

2- The onset of the effects are so quick that one might not be able to take out the needle in time and accidentally ripping their vein out while in hyperspace, or putting it down too near and rolling around/puncturing oneself

IF one is gonna do it inspite of contrary recommendations, then please: Take care in making many purifying steps (several recrystallizations/washes) and making sure it has no solvent or other chemical traces in the final product (redissolving the recrystallized product in USP grade acetone or ethanol and re-evaporating, scrapping and letting it dry completely before converting to fumarates in a sterile solution, etc.). Check the first link below for tips on how to prepare for injection and safety proceedures

Also, for the first try, take at most 0.2mg/kg, preferably less. And VERY importantly, [[do NOT do it by yourself]], have a sitter that is experienced with needles inject for you and be there to make sure you are physically safe.

==== Links ====

* [http://www.hipforums.com/newforums/showpost.php?p=6347899&postcount=5 Entheogen Review article on safe injection proceedure]
* [https://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4128 iv dmt]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1521 IV DMT]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3016 IV DMT?]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=144148 Injecting DMT]
* [https://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=7450 FASA safe for injection?]

=== How can I estimate the amount of mimosa? ===

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=236540#post236540 Estimating mimosa amount]

== DMT/Plant storage ==

=== Does DMT go bad? ===

The main degradation product of dmt seems to be dmt n-oxide, which is also psychoactive. Some people enjoy and find qualitative difference in n-oxide compared to dmt. On the other hand, other people report negative experiences with old spice, but it is unknown how much is self-suggestion and how much is really true. The rate at which dmt converts to n-oxide logically depends on factors such as air exposure and temperature, but so far there havent been any quantitative tests to tell how fast it goes in a given condition.

In any case, n-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

Many people convert the freebase to dmt fumarate for storage, as its claimed to be a more stable salt.

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1553 DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=302112#post302112 DMT oxidation rate]

=== Does mimosa go bad? ===

Generally mimosa should not go bad even after months/years. If it looks fine and doesnt have some mutant fungus growing on it, its perfect :) There are reports of people using mimosa that was for many months or even years in a drawer without any significant problem (though as with anything, its always more prudent to store in dark, dry, cold place).

The main possible degradation is of dmt into dmt n-oxide. Dmt n-oxide is also psychoactive, but it is not soluble in naphtha, which may cause some people to get small yields when extracting from older bark. N-oxide is soluble in limonene/xylene/toluene/etc, so one could extract it with those solvents without loss of yield. Alternatively, N-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

For oral usage of mimosa, formation of n-oxide wouldnt really affect much as it will be water soluble so one will still get the effects when consuming the brew.

==== Links ====
* [[DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3570 How long should MHRB keep]

=== Whats the best way to store DMT? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

In any case, one can also convert to dmt fumarate which is a very stable salt form of dmt

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4482 Long-term storage]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4867 How to store DMT for longest]

=== Whats the best way to store Mimosa? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

Logically, bark in pieces will keep better than when powdered

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1488 Storing mimosa hostilis]

== DMT Allies ==

=== What is jungle spice ? ===

https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359543#post359543
Jungle Spice is the product resulting from an extraction of mimosa hostilis using a solvent more polar than naphtha (such as xylene, toluene, limonene, ether, DCM, etc). Sometimes people also call it JimJam, which was first called only for limonene extracted products, but analysis shown it to be equivalent to what is extracted with xylene. Chemical analysis has shown that both naphtha as well as xylene/limonene extract mostly DMT (around 90%), plus around or under 1% 2-methy-1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-beta-carboline (2MTHBC) and NMT. The psychoactivity of 2MTHBC is unknown at this point, and NMT does appear to be psychoactive, though a quarter of the potency of DMT. Appart from these mentioned alkaloids, Xylene, when evaporated, and both limonene or xylene, when salted with an acidic solution like vinegar or FASW, also yield around 0.2% MTHBC (tetrahydroharman), and what could be 1,2-dimethyl-tetrahydrobetacarboline or a yuremamine degradation product (as suggested by dozuki in the jungle spice analysis thread linked below). Very little to nothing is known about these two 'extra' beta-carbolines in junglespice/jimjam, if they are psychoactive or can potentiate DMT.

Some people claim jungle spice to be stronger or produce a different experience than pure DMT. This may be self-suggestion (people thinking it is stronger/different therefore feeling it), it may be that the inactive oils/impurities present in jungle spice somehow protect DMT from heat, making a more effective vaporization, and therefore feel stronger. It may also be that the beta carbolines together, have a synergistic effect with DMT making a stronger experience, or it may be that these beta carbolines would only really be noticeable if they were in a larger quantity as is the case with some Acacias. It may be a mixture of any or all of the above possibilities.

Only further testing (such as blind self-experiments and more analysis) will help us isolating the variables and answer the questions on junglespice's activity

For more information on jungle spice, check the links below

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1115 Jungle Spice]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=10553 Jungle Spice chemical analysis]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23544 Entheogenic effects of NMT]

=== What is changa / How to make changa ? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Changa Changa WIKI]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to DMT enhanced leaf (changa)] thread
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=27537 How does your changa looks like ?] thread

=== What type of caapi/ayahuasca vine should I use, what are the differences ? ===

Different ethnobotanical suppliers seem to stock different varieties of caapi. Often they use color names (for example black caapi, white caapi, etc), or other names used by local / mestizos / indigenous people (caupuri, ourinhos, etc). The problem is that there is no consensus regarding the classification of different caapi vines, so some indigenous people may recognize 2 types, in another tribe they may recognize 10 types, and so on. These types may overlap or they may even be in contradiction with each other. Also botanists would not necessarily agree with those types, as sometimes classification from indigenous people is not based on how a plant looks, but also on its effects, purpose, etc. In fact, some of what is sold as "black/red/whatever caapi" may even be of a different genus/species altogether (more discussion on this on links below)

There is an ongoing analysis project going on with different caapi/ayahuasca vines (link below), and it seems some caapis have very similar alkaloid/chemical component even if they have different names, while others may have quite different content even if they are named the same. The difference can be in ratio of alkaloids or total alkaloid yield, for example some black caapi from one vendor yielded over 2% alkaloids, a black caapi from another vendor yielded 0.5%.

Regarding the type/function/effects of different caapis, at this point any conclusions and generalizations are not possible. As an example, at times it's said that black caapi is used for more witchcraft kind of rituals by some shamans, but this doesnt mean that: a- that particular group is "correct", b-that other groups would agree with what they call "black caapi", c- That the black caapi you find is equivalent to that, d- that you cant use it for another purpose and have a great experience regardless.

It may be that there is a pattern between alkaloid content of different caapi vines (some may have more harmaline, or more THH, etc), but at this point we cannot yet say. Also even if a correctly identified subtype of caapi would have a specific alkaloid content, we would still have to make the assumption that the vendors are actually identifying correctly.

If you want to decide what type of caapi to get, one thing you could do is check the suppliers section and see if this specific caapi from the specific vendor has been reviewed, and dont believe in generalizations (all caapi "X" is strong and gives dark trips, all caapi "Y" is light and for beginners). Start with low dosage (10-20g) for the first time to gauge the strenght of this particular batch you have acquired, and then raise the dosage accordingly if necessary.

Another thing to do is to buy at least 2 different types and then take them in separate occasions, and then sharing the results with the community, and that way we all grow together.

Do check the links below as they have very relevant discussions regarding the different caapi types:

==== Links ====
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29967 Caapi analysis thread]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32018 Poorly understood family of ayahuasca vines]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=30106 tetrapterys methystica (painted caapi) and other kinds of caapi]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=325495#post325495 Which caapi should I get ?]

== Plant sources ==

=== What are the best DMT-containing plants in my area ? ===

One good way to check what DMT plants you have around you is to look at the Nexus Wiki lists for [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT plants containing DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT] ) . Then use the search function of [http://www.discoverlife.org discoverlife page] or [http://bonap.org/genera-list.html bonap] to search the plants names and see in the species map if any of the good candidates grow near you, or alternatively, you can first identify the plants growing around you and search for their scientific name on the mentioned wiki lists.

If you don't find any plants growing around you, you can consider cultivating some ideal plants yourself, for example checking out the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=38229 Top Acacias To Grow Worldwide Thread] for the mid-long term, or getting known cuttings of phalaris with good alkaloid content such as AQ1 and big medicine (for more info check all the links in the first post of the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]) which can be harvested pretty quick

=== Does this plant contain DMT ? ===

Often people ask in the forum if the plant they have growing around them contains DMT. Then they might post pictures of the plants and expect an identification. Before that is done, the person asking needs to do some basic things:

1- Look up the information to know the plants that contain interesting alkaloids. The best resources are the Nexus wiki of plants containing [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT].

If it's an Acacia, read the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Acacia information thread] and if it's a Phalaris read the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]. Those threads contain information on seed suppliers, geographic location, season of harvest, conditions of growth and variation in alkaloid content, etc, which the person should become familiar with.

2-The person should try to identify the local plants based on the information in the above links. Posting picture of random plants without at least having some clue on what they could be, will only make everybody's life much harder. Look up images of suspected plants and compare, see in what they may differ.

3- Take detailed pictures of the different plant parts (overall plant, leaf close up front and back, seedpods and flower close ups if they are there). Often to differentiate between species the details are important, so blurry bad quality pictures or single pictures with no close ups or details of different plant parts are not enough.

4- Post your ID request in the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=358663#post358663 Acacia ID thread] if it's a suspected Acacia, or make a new thread if it's a differen't plant. Be sure to say what plant you think it is, and include information such as general geographic area, the detailed pics above, and any possible differences you may have seen with the plant you think it is.

5- If your plant gets identified and you plan on harvesting, please only harvest sustainably! Check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=344487#post344487 this] post for more information

=== Links ===

''''[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Containing_Plants WIKI -> DMT Containing Plants].''''

''''[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Botanicals WIKI -> Botanicals].''''

'''' [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=369566#post369566 Mimosa hostilis and Mimosa spp. (pudica, ophthalmocentra etc) Workspace] ''''

'''' [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Trying to improve Acacia information] ''''

'''' [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=33648 Acacia Identification Thread] ''''

.

== Reference ==
<references/>

FAQ - DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide

2014-04-17T03:51:44Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Does this plant contain DMT ? */

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of the 'DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide'<ref>DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide
[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6341]</ref>.}}

== DMT overview ==

=== What is DMT, Where do I learn the basics? ===

DMT is a naturally occuring substance, present in trace amounts in normal human metabolism (and its purpouse is unknown, check question [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Is_it_true_the_pineal_gland_produces_DMT_naturally_and_is_involved_in_dreaming.3F 2.1] , as well as in a variety of plants and animals.

It can be extracted from some of these plants and smoked for some very strong psychedelic/entheogenic effects lasting 10 minutes. It can also be taken orally, but we have an enzyme (MAO) in our stomach that destroys dmt if taken orally, so for taking orally DMT must be acompanied by a substance that inhibits this enzyme (MAOI, or MAO Inhibitor), which is also present in some other plants.

Ayahuasca, a sacred drink used by indigenous people of the Amazon, is an example of a drink made from a dmt-containing plant (Psychotria viridis), together with a MAOI containing plant (Banisteriopsis caapi), that is drank orally for a psychedelic/entheogenic experience lasting around 4 hours.

When smoking, we do not need to use MAOI because we do not have MAOs in our lungs. Nevertheless, some people like to also ingest MAOIs before vaporizing DMT, or vaporizing a MAOI together with the DMT (such as in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ_-_DMT_Frequently_Asked_Questions_and_Troubleshooting_Guide#What_is_changa_.2F_How_to_make_changa_.3F changa]), to make the experience last longer.

For learning more about DMT, this whole webpage is dedicated to it. Here's a few links

==== Links ====

* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dimethyltryptamine Wikipedia DMT Link]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/ The Dmt Nexus Wiki]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ Frequently Asked Questions]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=forum Main Dmt Nexus Forum]

=== Are there different types of DMT? ===

DMT can be in salt form or in freebase form. A salt form means the DMT is attached to an acid molecule. DMT is naturally in salt form in the plants because of plant acids (for example dmt tannate or oxalate due to tannic or oxalic acid being present in some plants). When people extract DMT, they can make it in freebase form to smoke, because DMT in salt form can't be smoked, it has high boiling point and breaks down instead of vaporizing efficiently. Some salt forms like DMT fumarate can even be toxic to smoke due to creation of maleic anhydride during combustion.

Appart from being naturally in brews made of DMT containing plants like ayahuasca, DMT can also be made into salt for, for example DMT fumarate, when people extract it, because DMT fumarate is stable and can be stored for long, and it can be taken orally or intranasally. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods this] for more info. Regarding dosages in different salt forms, one can read [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this] thread. Each salt form of DMT have their own weight depending on the acid molecule weight (for example DMT fumarate's weight is around 76% DMT, 24% fumaric acid), so dosages could be adjusted proportionately to the amount of DMT when ingesting, but since each person is differently sensitive to DMT and since salt form may be a bit more effective to ingest orally, this "salt weight calculation" is not really necessary for DMT, one can just ingest according to [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 these] recommendations, starting low for first time, and adjusting according to own sensitivity and batch the next time.

There are other molecules which have the DMT structure built into them but they are not DMT, they have structural modifications, for example 4-HO-DMT also known as psilocin and 4-PO-DMT, psilocybin, the active compounds in mushrooms, which are different molecules altogether with their own particular effects. Small modifications in molecules can completely change effects. So psilocybin, psilocin, 5-MeO DMT, and 5-HO-DMT (bufotenine), plus others, are all different molecules, they are NOT the same as DMT. Each of them has different effects, pharmacology, etc etc. On the other hand, DMT freebase or DMT in salt form (tannate, acetate, fumarate) are all DMT.

== DMT Chemistry and Body ==

=== Is it true the pineal gland produces DMT naturally and is involved in dreaming and death? What does DMT do in the body? ===

At this point there is no evidence to support the claim that DMT is produced in the pineal or brain. It is a speculation raised by Dr Rick Strassman due to his previous interest in the pineal. So far in humans, the key enzymes necessary for this have [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=5549 not been found present in the human brain], therefore it seem more likely it is produced elsewhere in the body, though some recent research has shown in primates these enzymes are present in pineal gland. In any case nothing is really proven yet so we must avoid making claims before more data comes in.

The supposed connection of DMT and dreams, and the idea that DMT is released when we die, both are speculation with no real evidence to back them up.

It IS proven, though, for decades already, that DMT is produced in the human body and is present at all times in trace amounts, for unknown functions (which could be several functions, see last link below).

==== Links ====

*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18834 Zero proof DMT is made in the brain]
*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=295746#post295746 I dislike the "DMT is responsible for your dreams" theory]
*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18394 Rethinking DMT and the Pineal Gland]
*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18448 The functions of DMT in our body: If DMT would be a neurotransmitter]

=== Is DMT dangerous? ===

Researches have been made showing the relative safety of dmt. It does not cause physical damage, addiction, and any tolerance disappears very quickly. Ayahuasca, the dmt-containing brew from the Amazon, has been studied by multidisciplinary groups in Brazil and other countries and was shown that in a careful context, it presents no negative cognitive/psychiatric/social consequences, even in adolescents.

There is yet little research into vaporized dmt, but there seems to be no sign that it is in any way more dangerous physically than other administration forms. There are no reported deaths from smoking DMT. Smoking it will not lead to a dangerous overdose because the onset is so quick that one can only inhale a certain amount before being gone to ´hyperspace', without being able to smoke more until one is down again.

However:
* People with extreme heart or other conditions for whom strong emotions could be dangerous are contra-indicated, just like a roller coaster would for them.
* It is important to notice that with any psychedelic, it is a very powerful emotional/mental experience, so those with personal or family psychiatric history, unstable emotionally or going through some very difficult moments in life should be extremely careful.
* Also, it is possible that during the experience, one temporarily loses orientation in the consensus reality, so smoking/ingesting next to a cliff, sharp objects, etc, is not a good idea. BE IN A PHYSICALLY SAFE ENVIRONMENT!
* DO NOT use MAOIs (so for example an ayahuasca brew) together with stimulants or SSRI medication

Appart from that, there are psychological issues to be considered. Please read the health and safety section linked below, as well as the scientific articles also linked below.

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety Health And Safety Section]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1441 Scientific Articles on DMT/Ayahuasca/Psychedelics]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4400 Long term effects of smoking DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5843 DMT After-Effects]

=== Is a MAOI diet / Ayahuasca fasting necessary? What kind of dangers are there with medication interaction? ===

Unlike some pharmaceutical MAOI, the Harmalas, alkaloids present in the caapi vine and syrian rue are reversible inhibitors of MAO-A, while Tyramine, the component in some food that could cause problems in big amounts, is eliminated partly by MAO-A and but also partly by the intact MAO-B ([http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 source] ). Also for some pharmacological reason as shown in [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_fig9big.jpg this] diagram, tyramine can still be partly metabolized by MAO-A even during the harmala effects.

In other words, in terms of '''food''' interaction, the danger with reversible MAOI use (in for example ayahuasca or pharmahuasca with harmalas) and food interaction is very reduced. The necessity of the very strict dieting for ayahuasca with extensive list of what one must absolutely not eat is an exaggeration, though it is advised to eat light because extreme amounts of tyramine in some specific foods could theoretically still be a potential problem.

There seem to be no reports of actual life-threatening events with tyramine-containing foods and harmalas. There are even people that purposely ate tyramine-containing foods with no ill effects, but there have also been reports of negative symptoms such as very strong headaches and negative body load when mixing a heavy food consumption before/during/after harmala consumption. Several other variables may also be involved that are unrelated to tyramine and harmala-food interaction (variables such as for example exhaustion from the trip, vasodilation, the body/ayahuasca telling the person to 'eat better' in general, etc). Headaches seem specially common when mixing beer and harmalas.

In any case, it is generally considered common sense to eat light before and after the use of ayahuasca and analogues (and psychedelics in general). Just follow your good sense and you should be fine. To eer on the side of caution, the food to avoid eating (or over-eating) is aged or fermented food specially aged cheese, fermented or smoked meat (fish included) and soy products (though some soy products have also been found to have little tyramine content). Beer should also be avoided as some people have experienced negative interaction between MAOIs and beer. Apart from that, there are no real restrictions, eat lightly and all should be good :)

In relation to how long to wait after the last food before taking ayahuasca, this is very personal. Some like to have empty stomach and be fasting for 6 or more hours, but this is not necessary, and others feel it is even negative to fast for so long, because a too empty stomach might make one very tired during the ceremony, specialy at the end, and can also make purging a specially difficult or uncomfortable experience. Some consider better to have eaten something light (like some fruits or cereal or light sandwhich) a couple of hours before ingesting ayahuasca/analogues.

Remember: With the exception of moclobemide, which stands in the same category as harmalas as far as reversibility and food interaction goes, avoid all other pharmaceutical MAOIs !! Pharmaceutical irreversible MAOIs are VERY dangerous to take without taking strong precautions with food and drug interaction.

'''What IS dangerous is interaction between any MAOIs (including harmalas) and stimulants or some medication''' such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_serotonin_reuptake_inhibitor SSRI] medication such as prozac, or stimulants such as amphetamines or others. If you're taking SSRI's, do not consume MAOIs!! Do not mix stimulants with MAOIs either! Mixing stimulants/SSRIs with MAOIs can cause Serotonin Syndrome which may lead to convulsions or even death. For pharmaceuticals and substances that should NEVER be taken when consuming harmalas, check [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 1] and [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 2]

==== Links ====
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29131 Do you experience tyramine interaction with harmalas?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5711 Will smoked Rue cause MAOI?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5398 Think iv cracked it]
* [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=tyramine%20food%20table&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CFMQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fddr.nal.usda.gov%2Fbitstream%2F10113%2F7351%2F1%2FIND43817287.pdf&ei=PpvsT8zAEsXAhAehj-nPBQ&usg=AFQjCNGKR57Q_VTqzOjKxfvKbu0kDTB8Ng&cad=rja Scientific publication on food containing tyramine]
* [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 scientific publication on interaction of MAOIs and tyramine]

== DMT and Society ==

=== Is dmt legal? ===

Posession and sales of DMT in its pure extracted/synthesized form is illegal, schedule 1 in USA and controlled by United Nations and can land you in jail if found in most countries.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/dmt/dmt_law.shtml Erowid DMT Law Vault]

=== '''Are the natural ingredients such as mimosa, and ayahuasca, illegal?''' ===

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=21527 On the Legal Status of DMT Source Plants in the US (with a discussion of the religious use defense)]'''

==== Links ====

* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/ayahuasca/ayahuasca_law.shtml Erowid Ayahuasca Law Vault]
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/plants/mimosa/mimosa_law.shtml Erowid Mimosa Law Vault]

=== Whats the price of dmt / Can I trade dmt? ===

'''[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Attitude_Page#No_discussion_on_selling.2C_buying.2C_sourcing.2C_acquiring.2C_pricing.2C_trading.2C_mentioning_pending_deliveries_or_smuggling_of_drugs No discussion on selling, buying, sourcing, acquiring, pricing, trading, mentioning pending deliveries or smuggling of drugs].'''

'''DO NOT BUY OR SELL DMT!''' We at the nexus are against selling/profiting with this incredible substance. We do not know and we do not want to know how much it costs in the street, we do not want it to be sold on the streets! This is not only disrespectful and shows a lack of understanding about the power of this substance, but its also a liability for the whole community. Dealing/trading DMT can attract the attention of authorities and create a problem not only for yourself but for all others in the community.

'''Talking about DMT sales or trade will result in suspension from the forum!'''

All the reasons why we dont believe in it are listed in the thread below

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3414 Street Value of DMT (and why you should never sell it) ]

== DMT Extraction ==

=== Where to start? ===

There are several ways of extracting DMT, and different ways use different chemicals and take different time. It is recommended that before embarking on extracting, one reads up at least a couple of different teks (link on the bottom) to understand the processes.

The basics of an extraction is:

DMT is present in many plant materials and can be isolated through simple processes. Most commonly used plant is [[Mimosa hostilis]] root bark, but there are other plants with good alkaloid profile such as certain Acacias and certain strains of [[Phalaris spp.]]

DMT in an acidic solution is in salt form and therefore water soluble, while DMT in a basic solution becomes a freebase and not water soluble but rather soluble in non-polar solvents (like limonene, naphtha, xylene, etc). This works similarly to most other alkaloids, with a few exceptions, for example harmalas freebase dont dissolve in the solvents mentioned above, but when you add a base to a solution containing harmalas, they just precipitate and you can filter them.

Back to DMT, non-polar solvents separate from water like oil, it stays as a layer on top. By playing with the pH (adding an acid or a base) you make the dmt move from one place to the other while most of other impurities dont, and then you separate the layers by pippeting/separatory funnel/decanting, and then retrieve the dmt from the non-polar solvent by evaporating it or freeze-precipitating (putting it in a closed container in the freezer, and as the temperature goes down the solubility of dmt in the solvent diminishes, so after some hours dmt precipitates and can be retrieved). There are differences depending on the process of extraction you use (for example limonene can't be evaporated and neither freeze precipitated, it's usually salted, as described in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB], but that is, in a very general way, how it works.

There are some new developed teks for extracting dmt with food-safe materials and/or no petro-chemical solvents, such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] , [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Nontoxic_Approach_to_Spice_Extraction Amor Fati's approach], or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek Q21Q21's extraction tek]. The biggest advantage is, as said, the use of relatively non-toxic material and no petrochemicals but instead solvents such as limonene, which is basically pure orange oil. The disadvantage is that to retrieve the dmt from limonene, you cannot evaporate it (as limonene doesnt evaporate cleanly, it leaves gooey residues), and freeze precipitation also doesnt work (as even in freeze temperatures, dmt is still too soluble in it so it doesnt precipitate), so there are 2 extra steps, which are to 'salt out' the limonene by mixing it with an acidic solution, evaporating that solution and then freebasing the resulting product if one wants to smoke it (or just keeping the salt for storage or oral consumption), as explained in the teks mentioned above. These steps are just as easy as any other step done in the earlier steps of the extraction but the fact that its two extra steps means some extra time and work which some people might not want.

There are also the standard STB (straight-to-base) teks that have been used a lot before the food-safe/limo teks, the two most common being [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Noman%27s_tek Noman's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Lazyman%27s_tek Lazyman Tek]. The mimosa (or whatever plant material extracted) is put straight in a basic solution from the beginning, with no acid-adding step, and hence the name. The advantage of STBs generally being that they need less steps, maybe simpler for beginners, and can usually be quicker, and the main disadvantage being the amount of lye/caustic soda they require (lye being dangerous if it spills because it causes serious chemical burns and could make one blind, though if done correctly it will not be on your final product. Also disadvantage of using much lye is it is watched in many places due to being used in meth production, so it might be suspicious to buy it, or even impossible to find, specially in some specific places of USA). Another possible disadvantage of STB teks is some people claim the final product is not as clean, its more yellow. Yellow dmt isnt necessarily a problem, though, some people even prefer it. Also, one can easily do a recrystalization (look below in the FAQ for explanation) which will effectively clean up the final product quickly and with very little solvent needed.

Then there are the A/B extractions (acid/base), such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Vovin%27s_tek Vovin's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Marsofold%27s_tek Marsofold's tek]. As the name suggests, the plant material is first simmered/boiled in acid 3x, filtered and later the base is added. The advantage being that when one is adding the base and mixing the solvent, the solids were already removed after the acid step, making it easier to mix the solvent, and easier to discard everything later. Also the acid step allows one to do a defat, though usually that is considered a wasteful way of cleaning up because it needs a lot of solvent for removing a bit of fats, which can be accomplished more efficiently with a recrystallization on the final product. The disadvantage of an A/B is that it takes longer because of the initial acid step, and if one isnt thorough enough in this acid step one will lose a lot of actives when discarding the solids before moving on to the Base step.

==== Links ====

* [[:Category:Extraction_Tek|Extraction Teks]]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1085 DMT Extraction Overview]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=318336#post318336 Art of liquid-liquid extraction - The basics]

=== What is the best tek? ===

There is no "best" tek. All teks featured in the Nexus Wiki should result in similar final product purity and yields, if correctly performed. Each tek has it's own characteristics regarding chemicals used, how long it takes, how thorough it's explained, if it includes optional clean up steps or not, etc. That is why, before deciding on one tek, it's important to read all (or at least some of them), also the "where to start" question above and the extraction overview linked there. That way you will have a better understanding of the processes instead of just blindly following a tek, which means you'll probably be more succesful with whichever tek you decide to use in the end.

=== Is my solvent/chemical OK to use? ===

Before using any solvent, one must make sure it is a clean evaporating solvent with no toxic/residual additives (or for other non-volatile chemicals used, make sure it has no toxic/unwanted additives). Always:

* Read the ingredients on the solvent's or chemical's label. Make sure it is pure with nothing appart from the desired chemical (for example: Naphtha/Aliphatic hydrocarbons)
* Google "solventbrand solvent/chemical msds", searching the brand of the solvent you have access to, to see if it has an msds, which usually contains more in depth information on what the product contains. For example "merck acetone msds". Or alternatively:
* Check the webpage linked in [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=165091#post165091 this thread] and see if your solvent and its contents is featured there
* VERY IMPORTANT: Always do an evaporating test before using a solvent for the first time: Add a quantity of the solvent to a glass/pyrex/plate (do NOT use a cd) and let it evaporate. If it leaves residues of any kind, dont use it. If it evaporates cleanly, chances are its ok to use.
* Check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=14772 this] thread on whether your chem is ok to use or where to get the right chems.

=== Is this material or container ok to use with my chemicals? ===

The keyword to search is "Chemical compatibility" or "Chemical Resistance", plus the material and solvent/chemical you are looking for. Below are some good links to help you already find the information you want:

==== Link ====

* [http://www.nalgenelabware.com/techdata/chemical/index.asp Chemical Compatibility Search]
* [http://www.coleparmer.com/techinfo/chemcomp.asp Chemical compatibility database 2]
* [http://www.greenterpene.com/GreenTerpene_Product_Compatibility_s/48.htm Limonene compatibility chart]

=== Is plastic OK to use for my extraction? ===

In short, better not. If you are going to use anyways (NOT recommended), be sure to check what kind of plastic it is, and that its compatible with the chemicals used, as in the links of the previous question. But again, better not use plastic and only use glass, read links below for explanations why:

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=26324 Warning to those using plastic containers]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=340124#post340124 Using plastic for extractions]

=== What are the different bases one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired base.

* For [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH
* For [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH, Potassium Hydroxide/KOH
* For [[:Category:Dry_Technique|Dry tek]]: Calcium Hydroxide

=== What are the different acids one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired acid.

Plenty of different kinds of acid will work, but generally people preffer the first one on the following list:
* Vinegar (acetic acid)
* Lemon Juice (citric acid)
* Phosphoric Acid
* Hydrochloric Acid/HCl/Muriatic Acid.

NOTE: Sulfuric acid is not very well suited towards this extraction, as it reacts with lye to form sodium sulfate which is very poorly water-soluble. This may result in a generous white precipitate.

Reaction:

2NaOH + H2SO4 => Na2SO4 + 2H2O

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1556 Acids]

=== How can I convert sodium bicarbonate into sodium carbonate ===

==== Link ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Conversion_of_Sodium_Bicarbonate_into_Sodium_Carbonate Sodium bicarb -> carb conversion wiki]

=== How long each acid cook? ===

30 min - 2 hours cooks in a crockpot on low-medium (or just low fire on the stove). Some people avoid boiling and only simmer, but it appears DMT salts are very stable even at boil temperatures, so there doesnt seem to be diminishing yields when boiling. Also, it's important to stir once in a while during the acid cook.

=== How many acid cooks? ===

General consensus talks about 3 runs, 2 being minimum and 5 being over-careful.

=== Can I make one long cook instead of 3 shorter ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== Which ratio of MHRB:Lye:Water is the best? ===

For STBs, 1g MHRB:1g Lye:15ml Water is generally accepted as a good ratio. People have had success with significantly less water, but 15ml per g bark is a recommended amount because less than that might make the whole mixture too thick and it can make the separation of the solvent more difficult. Also, one actually needs much less lye but this amount of lye helps prevent emulsions forming as well helps break down the plant material so that dmt is more exposed to the water.

Alternatively, one can just add enough lye for the solution to turn completely black, and go ahead and extract. If emulsions form, add more lye. One does not need to worry about over-basifying, there's no such thing. Excess lye will stay behind in the water layer once you separate the solvent in any case.

=== Can I scale down/up the amounts stated in a tek if I want to extract different amounts of mimosa? ===

Yes, just scale the quantities proportionally according to your situation

=== Can I make one big pull instead of few smaller ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be significantly smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

==== Links ====

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== How big should the pulls be / How much to pre-evaporate before freezing? ===

100ml per pull per 200g bark (or a 2:1 ratio of bark:naphtha) is a sensible recomendation. More wont hurt but it will waste solvent as you will have to evaporate much afterwards. Less solvent per pull is even better, as long as you repeat more pulls to compensate. Sometimes people use more solvent than this recommended amount, like when for example if using this ratio in one's container the layers are too thin and it is hard to separate the solvent (though there are [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#How_to_pull_.2F_get_the_solvent_off_from_the_mix.3F tricks for better separation]). If the plan is to freeze precipitate and one uses more naphtha than the recommended amount, it is recommended to pre-evaporate the naphtha before freezing.

The amount that one should pre-evaporate depends of course on how much solvent used. The idea about pre-evap is that the solvent should be as saturated as possible with dmt so that most or all of it precipitates when put in the freezer. If its not saturated enough, then not much (or not at all) will precipitate. So if one used more than 3:1 ratio of bark:solvent, then pre-evaporate enough to reach the equivalent of it (so if one used, lets say, 100ml per 100g bark, pre evaporating till a third of original volume is recommended). [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=150095#post150095 Here's] an attempt to explain why not having it saturated enough may result in no or low yield

Later pulls will most likely be less saturated with dmt than first pulls, so for the later pulls (like lets say the 4th and 5th), it would be logical to pre-evaporate even more than the first pulls. In the example given above, instead of evaporating until a third of original volume, maybe one could evaporate until there is only a quarter or a fifth of original volume.

Some people gauge the amount of pre-evaporation by doing it until the solvent starts getting cloudy.

In any case, remember to re-use the naphtha after retrieving the crystals from precipitation, and/or evaporating it all the way down to see if there are any actives that remained in the naphtha after the freeze precipitation

If one is extracting a different plant or using a different solvent, then the ratio recommendation can change. Though in extractions that one salts out the solvent (like for example in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] and other limonene-based extractions), one can (and even should) use significantly more solvent, because all alkaloids will anyways be retrieved with the salting step.

=== The layers wont separate, what to do? ===

Possible fixes:
# Dont shake next time, if you did so! Instead, Stir/roll/turn upside down slowly, several times.
# Add more basic water/lye to the mix (either mix is not basic enough or too much plant matter for too little water)
# Make a warm water bath with the whole container (remember no fire sources near solvents, and leave top slightly open for preventing building up of pressure)
# Tapping on the side of the container/vibration (like sitting on top of washing mashine)
# Adding plenty of no-additives non-iodized salt (will make the water more polar and therefore chemically help in the separation)

====Links====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5866 Naphtha won' seperate?]

=== My Solvent is Brown/Dark, what to do ? ===

It happens for some people that after mixing the solvent with the mimosa solution, the naphtha picks up a lot of color and when the layers are separated, there is no emulsion but the naphtha is very dark, brown/burgundy. The exact reasons for this are still unknown, but it seems to happen mostly with STB extractions, powdered bark and heated pulls. It may be that there are microscopic suspended particles of the mimosa/black liquid which for some reason refuse to settle, but nobody yet knows for sure.

Considering this is not an emulsion issue (if so, it can be solved as stated [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#The_layers_wont_separate.2C_what_to_do.3F here]), this issue can be solved by:

1- Wait a few hours and see if the color settles and the solvent layer gets clearer.

2- Separate the pull as you would normally, and do a sodium carbonate wash (explanation also here in the FAQ). If the wash isnt sufficient to get the dark away, then :

3- Do a 'mini A/B' (mixing the separated dark solvent with vinegar 3x, separating the vinegar and discarding the solvent. Then basify the vinegar by adding lye, and pull with fresh solvent)

=== How to pull / get the solvent off from the mix? ===

* [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Each person finds his own way. One of the practical ways is to first, with HDPE or glass pipette/turkey baster/glass syringe, crudely separate the solvent and maybe a bit of the mimosa mix into a tall thin container. Then, with another pipette/glass syringe (or same one, washed), separate the solvent (it will be easier due to being thiner container, so solvent layer will be thicker than before) to the final container for evap or freeze precip. On this second separation, only pull out what you are sure you can do accurately, and the last bit throw back into the main container. Often people complain that the turkey baster wont hold the solvent well and will start releasing liquid as soon as you stop pulling. A [http://www.plastyshack.com/images/glass_syringe.jpg glass syringe] or pipette will work better, you can find them sold in lab/chem/medical supply stores or online in a variety of shops.

* [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Same as above, or also using a separatory funnel.

=== Should I wash my spice? ===

Washing spice has as a main function to eliminate any possible lye or other polar impurities (like droplets of the mimosa basic mix) from the final product, which might make the smoke harsher. Nevertheless, unless one was sloppy and some of the basic mimosa liquid came through to the solvent when separating, there should be nothing or very small amounts of it in your final product.

In any case if one feels better making sure the spice is cleaner (because we all know how important our mental state is in these experiences, even if its clean but if you're worried it might make the experience worse), or if one's spice is unusually harsh, then proceed to a sodium carbonate wash (DO NOT WASH WITH AMMONIA! Many people report losing yield with ammonia wash )

# Have your product still in the solvent, before evaporation/precipitation. If you have already in crystal form, redissolve in a naphtha/heptane/hexane.
# Add anywhere in between a pinch to 5 grams of sodium carbonate (yes, doesnt matter... All that is necessary is for it to be a basic solution) to 100ml clean water.
# Add your spice-containing solvent and the sodium carbonate solution together in a container. Mix/shake/whatever (emulsions will not form).
# Separate the solvent from the sodium carbonate solution using pippette/turkey baster/syphon/separatory funnel. One can repeat steps 2-4 if desired, but not strictly necessary
# Freeze precipitate or evaporate to retrieve your DMT

Remember that regardless of washing, its still very important to make sure there are no solvent traces in your spice, which can be done with thorough air drying, or redissolving your dmt in a non-toxic (or less toxic) solvent like ethanol, or pure IPA/Acetone, and evapping that again

=== No precipitation or low yield? ===

# Stir/mix and let separate the layers many times over a longer period of time before pulling the solvent out of the mix, dont just let it stand.
# Evap till theres only a quarter of the naphtha left and repeat freeze precip. If this doesnt help:
# Add more lye/base in the basic solution and try again, with small warm, thoroughly mixed pulls
# If its evapped and it seems like small amount of goo, it may actually be more than it seems because goo is heavier crystals. Recrystallize goo as FAQ instructions or infuse some herbs and weigh herbs before and after infusing to know exact yield.

Other possibilities:
* Bad mimosa/plant material
* Not the right solvent (if solvent has aromatics like xylene mixed in, it wont freeze precipitate, and will evap into a gooey product, mix of dmt and other plant impurities)

=== Melting/dissapearing crystals after freeze precipitation / Whats the best way to retrieve crystals after freezing? ===

This usually happens because of remaining solvent residues warming up and redissolving the crystals.

A trick to work around that is to freeze precipitate for a day or so (if you already have the melted crystals, then redissolve them in small amounts of warm naphtha and back into the freezer), and after crystals have precipitated, take it out of the freezer, pour the naphtha off (through coffee filter just in case any crystals are not stuck to the container), close the container and put it upside down in the freezer for some more hours. This way, any remaining naphtha trapped inside the crystals will drop off to the lid of the container on the bottom.

So after those few hours, take out out of the freezer, opening the lid still upside down so the naphtha drops off, and then you can scrape the drier crystals, put them on top of a coffee filter or on a plate/petri dish to finish air drying, and voilá.

The container used for precipitation is ideally something with a lid that closes well, like a mason jar, and that the edges and walls are straight so you can scrape it off more easily. Scrape as much as you can of the dmt, and whatever is left inside, leave it and reuse the container for the next precipitation, or if its the last precipitation of the extraction, you can use some alcohol (or even naphtha, if its clean evapping naphtha) to pick the last bits up and evaporate in a dish or easy to scrape flat-bottom wide container.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=2290 DMT crystals melting]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=72767#post72767 Question about freeze precipitation times]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3519 Yellow goo. Won't crystallize]

=== How to safely heat a solvent ? ===

With the solvent safely stored far away, boil some water with any method you want. Once water is boiled, turn off heat source, get the solvent, put it in a glass and submerge the bottom of the glass on a pot containing your recently boiled water. In some seconds/minutes your solvent should be warm and you can use it for recrystallizing or pulling. NEVER warm up solvents directly with a heat source, specially no gas/open fire but even do not use electrical equipment unless it's a safe laboratory hotplate made for such purposes that will guarantee not to create sparks.

=== How does one recrystallize? ===

1- Boil some water. Turn off the fire.

2- Add your impure spice to a shotglass (weigh it before to know the amount).

3- Add around 20-30ml of naphtha/heptane/hexane per gram of impure spice to the shotglass.

4- submerge the bottom of the glass in the water. Leave it standing and/or stir it around a little bit. Most of the spice should redissolve in a few minutes, but probably a layer of goo will stay on the bottom.

5-Decant or pippette your naphtha away from the goo, put this naphtha in a clean container, close it, and into the freezer overnight for freeze precipitation. Alternatively, instead of freezing, if one wants to grow large crystals, put in a container with the lid semi-closed and/or in a place with very little air circulation, so that the naphtha evaporates very slowly. The slower the evap, the larger the crystal growth.

Its possible small amount of spice is still in the goo, so you can add another 5 or 10ml to the shotglass with the goo to pick up the last bits of dmt. This second pull will be more impure as it will pick some oils up, so freeze precipitate it separately. The goo can then be discarded

If one doesnt have a scale or for some reason cant weigh the spice, warm up a quantity of naphtha in a shotglass without the dmt and slowly add small quantities of the warm naphtha to the container containing dmt while stiring, until most dmt dissolved but a bottom layer of goo remains. Then follow step 5.
http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Can_I_make_one_long_cook_instead_of_3_shorter_ones.3F

==== Links ====

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=10545#post10545 Glass Shard Re-Crystallization Pictorial]

=== How many times can I reuse my solvent? ===

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=335995#post335995 On reusing non polar solvents]

=== What to do with the waste? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3072 What to do with the waste]

=== How Can I Extract DMT From Phalaris? ===

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phalaris_%28grass%29 Phalaris] is a genus of grasses with very variable alkaloid content, which means it's very hard or impossible to really say if a given Phalaris will have a good alkaloid content in terms of what alkaloids are present and in what amounts. Some Phalaris have very little to no DMT (or 5-MeO-DMT or Beta-Carbolines), and yet have plenty of potentially toxic alkaloids such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gramine gramine], while others have good amounts of wanted tryptamines and low gramine content. There are also tryptamines and beta-carbolines in Phalaris which have unknown activity and safety profile such as 5-MeO-NMT and others. This variability is especially the case with wild Phalaris or those grown from seeds so, for a more reliable alkaloid content, the clones of known strains such as AQ1, Big Medicine (for DMT) and Turkey Red (for 5-MeO-DMT) are probably a better bet.

'''Even though some people have reported some variable success, we do NOT recommend people to ingest a crude brew made with Phalaris grass due to the unknown amounts of possible toxic alkaloids. If using Phalaris, extract it first as mentioned below'''

If growing Phalaris yourself, [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/images/8/8a/Festiandsamorini.pdf this]publication goes over all the factors of growth that affect the alkaloid content. Please check it out. Here's some selected quotes:

* "The highest concentration (of alkaloids) is in the upper third part of the seedling leaf."
* "The total alkaloid concentration decreases with plant maturity"
* "Total alkaloids are more concentrated in the first regrowth, after the cutting or grazing, than in the first growth just after sowing, decreasing then in the following regrowths"
* "The availability of soil nitrogen increases the alkaloids concentration"
* "In soil, but not in nutrient solution cultivations, the concentration of indole alkaloids (...) increase is greater in plants supplied with ammonium nitrogen compared to the nitric source"
* "Samples of P. arundinacea growing with 20% of the full sunlight can contain an amount of DMT about twice compared to control; 5-MeO-DMT may increase up to a factor of 25"
* "DMT seems to show a maximum in the first hours of the morning, at least in shaded plants, whereas 5-MeODMT reaches a concentration peak in late morning"

Regarding the extraction itself, the plant should be extracted as soon as possible after harvesting since plant enzyme activity can break down alkaloids, even if drying the plant. If plant is not extracted immediately, it should be stored in an alcoholic solution in cold and dark. For extraction, a standard A/B could potentially work well, boiling plant material 3x in acidic water (pH anywhere from 1-6 should work), filtering, reducing to small manageable amount by low boil or simmering, and then basing with NaOH and pulling with solvent. Alternatively, a dry tek (check the nexus extraction teks wiki for more info) with calcium hydroxide or sodium carbonate could work but there haven't been enough tests to say for sure.

Regarding what solvents to use, hexane/heptane or equivalent solvents such as naphtha should work well as gramine is very poorly soluble in it, but if using naphtha make sure that it doesn't contain xylene or aromatics mixed in. Some people report specially low yields with naphtha and suggest cooking oil or room temperature limonene instead (check hippie salad oil tek link below) Cold/room temperature limonene also seems to work to separate tryptamines from gramine but more work needs to be done to make sure this separation is good enough. Check the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] for the most up-to-date info, since solubility tests on gramine are being done right now. If using naphtha or similar hydrocarbons, doing a recrystallization is a good idea to help removing other unwanted alkaloids that may have come across. Using less selective solvents like DCM, xylene, toluene or others (or acetone or alcohols in a dry tek) would pull the potentially toxic unwanted alkaloids, so its not recommended to use those, unless you do a clean up at the end

If you extract from Phalaris, we would be very thankful if you document the process (notes and/or pictures) and post so that we all can learn about the results, whether they are good or not. Please try smoking/ingesting only a very small amount at first if you do. Ideally, purchase colorimetric reagents such as marquis or ehrlich to help identifying the final product if it contains the wanted alkaloids (more info in the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] )

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=44863 Hippie salad oil tek v 2]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=16810&p=7 Phalaris way of the future thread]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=28869 PDF on processing phalaris]

=== Can I use another solvent like xylene after having pulled with naphtha? ===

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359465#post359465 Can SWIM Use Dif Solvents To Extract Different Ranges of Spice?]

== DMT Usage/Methods of administration ==

=== Is my spice ok to smoke? ===

Often people ask in the forum if their spice is ok to smoke, followed by a picture or description of the dmt's appearance. Nevertheless, there are several other variables which simple color does not tell, and which are essential to decide whether one shoud or not smoke it. Please check link below for detailed information:

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=11715 IMPORTANT: spice color purity fallacy AKA is your dmt ok to smoke ? ]

=== How to brew ayahuasca or analogues (mimosa hostilis / syrian rue)? ===

The standard way of brewing is to first of all have the material powdered/grinded or pounded as fine as possible. Then
* 1- boil on low fire (or simmer) the plant material for around three hours (some people do even longer but not necessary unless material is too coarsely shredded.. Also energetic/ecological costs become higher). Use mineral or distilled water ideally, some tap water can have too high pH and diminish yields/potency. Use enough water to cover the plant material.
* 2- filter/strain the brew to separate the liquids and solids, store the liquid separately,
* 3- add fresh water to the solids and boil everything again. Do this for a total of 3 or 4 times,
* 4- put the liquid from the 3 or 4x boils together, keep filtered/decanted solids separately for stp 6,
* 5- reduce the liquid on low fire/simmer to a manageable ammount, like for example 70ml per dose (dosages/amounts of each plant in [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this thread]

OPTIONAL:
* 6- If you want to be very thorough and get all the alkaloids out, you can now soak the plant material in vinegar for a day, then freeze and thaw it, then boil it for another hour or two. This should have a significant amount of alkaloids, which can either be extracted by basing and filtering like the Easy Caapi Extraction Tek, and the alkaloids added to the main brew (or consumed separately in some other occasion), or you could also consume this orally directly but due to the vinegar it will taste very bad, so it's better to at least base it with sodium carbonate slowly until it stops bubbling and/or reaches a pH of around 6, and then it will taste better.

The MAOI containing plant (banisteriopsis caapi vine or syrian rue) can be boiled together with the DMT containing plant (psychotria viridis or mimosa hostilis, or just add some extracted dmt in appropriate dosage to the caapi/rue brew), but specially if its the first time with a particular plant batch, its recommended to brew separately the two, and first find out the potency of the plant by drinking first a small amount.

An acid can be added to the brew (such as a dash of lemon or vinegar), but this is not strictly necessary (and neither the traditional indigenous way), specially if your plant is finely powdered, because alkaloids in the plant are naturally in water-soluble form. Though acid can increase the potency of the brew (specially for non-powdered plant material), it will also make it taste worse. To get the best out of all the worlds, its recommended to do step 6, so you have a better tasting brew without acid, but you still get any remaining alkaloids at the end in the final acid soak.

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8972 all about aya <3 ]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=51 Ayahuasca subforum]

=== Whats the best smoking method? ===

The [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] gives some tips not only on vaporizing methods but other tips, check it out.

Different people preffer different methods. FORGET THE LIGHTBULB METHOD as it only works for a small percentage of people, most report problems.

-
==== '''Vaporgenie''' ====

A big number of people in the Nexus claim the vaporgenie to be the best vaporizing method by far! The vaporgenie is claimed to be significantly more effective as well as having a much smoother vapor than other smoking methods so if one is having trouble with harsh smoke or low effects, try the vaporgenie out. The Glass VaporGenie is recommended but otherwise the classic one will work perfectly fine.

The first thing if you're vaporizing pure DMT, is to get a [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=42867 ceramic disc] or a volcano liquid pad and cut it up to fit the vaporgenie, otherwise the DMT will melt through the screens, even if it's multiple screens. Check the vaporgenie thread linked below for more details

Begin with the flame a few cms above the top and adjust as you go. With empty lungs, start inhaling slowly and steady. The idea is to inhale a dense vapour, but not too dense so that you start coughing. Its better to begin the inhaling with a not so dense smoke, and then make it denser towards the end. Keep the vapor in the lungs for as long as possible, at least 10 seconds. If you coughed or exhaled before this or couldnt inhale with all the lungs, try keeping the flame further away or adjusting the speed of inhaling so that its a bit less dense.

Usually it takes anywhere between 1-3 hits, or anywhere between 25-50mg for a full breakthrough, if you got your technique right. A torch lighter is recommended, but a normal lighter will also work fine.

- If you cant or dont want to afford a vaporgenie, a good possibility is to make your own vaporization tool like:

===='''amorfati's Inspirator MKII'''====

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8985 Link to how to build/use the Inspirator mKII]

For a vaporization to be really effective, the DMT should be heated by convection (hot air), not conduction (hot glass/pipe/material), so vaporgenie and inspirator are recommended. If you dont want to use these methods, there are other possibilities which are less effective and risk burning DMT instead of just vaporizing, but it does work decently enough for many people:

===='''- Bong/leaf bed/enhanced leaf'''====

One method also considered successful by some is in a water bong (or plain bong), with a couple of metal screens, a thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on the bottom, then the dmt in the middle, and then another thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on top.
It is essential to go very easy on the fire, because too much heat will degrade DMT. Keep the lighter as far away as possible so that it still vaporizes but doesnt over-heat your DMT
50mg seems to be a good dose if one wants to really go inside the dmt dimension. Inhale slowly and deeply, holding in the lungs as much as possible (at least a few seconds), exhaling, and then taking a second, third one if possible, and even fourth one if one still can. Even if after the first there are already some effects, if one really wants to breakthrough, gotta keep going as much as one can.

Specifically for enhanced leaf check link below

====''' The Machine'''====

Check links below

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=39961#post39961 VG VaporGenie: How to use, where to get, advantages, etc]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6014 Helps and tips for smoking spice]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=280594 My version of the "Machine" - How to make it in <15 minutes]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6131 Ban the Bulb - Modify the Machine]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to enhanced leaf changa]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5633 Thoughts on using a VaporGenie]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6317 Troubles with The Machine]

=== I dont get any effects/light buzz only, what to do? ===

99% of the times, when people do not get effects, they are having a bad vaporization method, most likely burning the sspice. Try one of the methods above, and considering it is dmt and one smokes it right, it should work. Other possibility is that one has a very impure product with too much plant oils and so on. One can perform one or more recrystalizations to get a purer product that is easier to weight accurately and vaporize, and then try methods above.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=86732#post86732 Trouble Breaking Through???]

=== Fear going into a trip ===

If you're afraid of dark things coming from inside of you and are not willing to face them, you should not consume any psychedelics at all...

If you're afraid but willing to face them, then that's another thing.

And whether it's changa, pharma, or aya or vaporized DMT, it doesn't matter much, those dark things can come out with one or the other.

A low dosage may help, yes, and so can a proper set and setting, but this is no guarantee you won't be facing what you fear the most. It can, and most likely will happen at some point, whether now or after a certain number of experiences. Whenever we take psychedelics, it's as if we sign a contract saying we accept all those possibilities. So think well before signing, and if you do sign, make sure to get all the preparations right before the time come, take it in a proper context and to humbly accept whatever may come, take responsibility for it, and learn from it.

==== Link ====

*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=470491#post470491 Suddenly concerned]

=== Denied breakthrough / Dark DMT trips / Not good experiences anymore ? ===

It happens with several people that they feel they aren't getting good experiences anymore, that the trips are consistently of dark motifs, negative feelings, or that the breakthrough is denied, regardless of dosage. There isn't a ready answer for why this happens, but it seems a few factors may be related to it. In many cases, this happens when people are having a regular or excessive DMT use, or when they haven't been dedicating enough to their daily lives, to [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration integration] of the experiences. Also, it may have in some cases to do with the intentions one sets before vaporizing the DMT, and with how one's mind state and the context in general is.

So a few tips on how to deal with this issue:

1- Take a break! The DMT hyperspace will always be there, there is no rush to go right now! Stop your DMT usage (and maybe drug usage altogether), dedicate to daily life, live a balanced healthy life, eat well, exercise, study, work. Do not obsess about DMT, try to only come back once you feel you have really made enough effort in improving your daily life. At least a few months break is recommended.

2- If and once you do decide to try it again, make sure it is a good place and time for it. Take care with using in the best set and setting possible (look further down the FAQ for recommended setting).

3- Do not smoke it impulsively. Meditate or spend a few minutes in silence, concentrating, breathing deeply and slowly.

4- Set your intentions straight. Question yourself why you are doing this. Try to have the best intentions and reasons as possible.

5- Use a good smoking method such as the vaporgenie or others as recommended above.

6- If it still doesnt work out for you, take an even longer break (many months/years), and/or stop it altogether. Realize that maybe DMT is just not for you. Its not a problem to admit one's relationship with a substance is not working, in fact, it shows you're being humble and conscious.

==== Link ====

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration Health and Safety section: Integration]
* [https://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=169680#post169680 what happened to the bright side?]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=13515 Vaporized DMT not having an effect in those who it has worked for previously]

=== What are the dosages for ... ? ===

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 Dosages and different forms of ingestion]

=== What is the best setting/context to consume spice? ===

Check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] for some tips on setting, preparation and also integration

* A comfortable quiet place is generally recommended. If there are friends around they should be requested to remain quiet while someone is embarking on this experience and only start speaking once the explorer talks himself and allows others. Possibility of telefone ringing or street noises or other interruptions is definitely NOT recommended.
* The presence of music or not depends a lot on personal taste. Some prefer full silence to 'concentrate' more deeply and mention that any stimulus keeps them too grounded in usual reality, while others can have very deep interconnected experiences with certain music of their own preference (often being some kind of chill out/ambient/ethno ).
* Many people preffer full darkness or indirect lighting, but sunset or sunrise in a nice nature place (if safe) can also be marvelous.
* Obviously '''DO NOT''' have sharp objects around, smoke next to cliffs, driving etc...
* It is very rare, but it may happen that one feels nauseated and/or vomits, so specially first times or those doing alone, its also recommended to have a bucket nearby, and to sit comfortably, resting the back against something soft in a way that you wont slip or fall, such as an armchair, bed with backrest/pillows or comfortable sofa.
* While we are not aware of any deaths, it would be irresponsible to discount the possibility that blocking your airway while deep in hyperspace could prove fatal, so be in a position/place where you are safe even if not conscious of the surroundings. During traditional ayahuasca ceremonies participants sit on the floor or in a comfortable chair. We recommend sitting upright (slightly reclined for stability) comfortably because the launch is far more immediate and surprising with vaporised DMT. Think of it as your pilot seat- you wouldn't fly a plane any other way!
* If you do not have a sitter to take the pipe from you, be sure that you have a safe and easy place very near to put it down when you feel hyperspace approaching. You will not be inclined to move your hand very far, so we would recommend a fireproof shelf of sorts less than a foot away. Just smoking cigarettes in bed kills many people every year, and obviously the same dangers are relevent with DMT. We have heard one report of a member who returned from an unenjoyable trip to find that she had dropped the pipe onto her leg, resulting in a nasty burn.
* Prior meditation or at least focusing on intention and inner calm can be benefiting.
* Remember to let go, dont struggle. Its normal that the hearbeat accelerates in the come up. Some people fear they are dying or that they wont return, but dont worry FOR SURE you come back, as it has happened with everybody else. Some people feel that they lose their breath, but its just a feeling.. As long as the airway is not physically blocked, then dont worry our body has a built-in mechanism that prevents one from stopping breathing.
* Dont be scared, entities cant hurt you in real life if you dont believe it. Try to not make 'good/bad' judgements during the experience, dont resist!! Just go with the flow of the ride. Some images may appear positive, negative, incredible, impossible to describe, etc, but you are safe regardless of what comes.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5900 Favourite setting for smoking DMT]

=== What about other ingestion methods (intranasal, intrarectal, Atomizer/E-cig etc) ? ===

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods Ingestion Methods]

=== Can DMT be IVed? ===

It can, but we do not recommend it mainly for two reasons:

1- The only official research done with DMT by Rick Strassmann used FDA-approved ultra pure DMT fumarate. The quality of home extraction products is questionable, one may have solvent traces and other impurities that could be uncomfortable, painful or downright dangerous to inject.

2- The onset of the effects are so quick that one might not be able to take out the needle in time and accidentally ripping their vein out while in hyperspace, or putting it down too near and rolling around/puncturing oneself

IF one is gonna do it inspite of contrary recommendations, then please: Take care in making many purifying steps (several recrystallizations/washes) and making sure it has no solvent or other chemical traces in the final product (redissolving the recrystallized product in USP grade acetone or ethanol and re-evaporating, scrapping and letting it dry completely before converting to fumarates in a sterile solution, etc.). Check the first link below for tips on how to prepare for injection and safety proceedures

Also, for the first try, take at most 0.2mg/kg, preferably less. And VERY importantly, [[do NOT do it by yourself]], have a sitter that is experienced with needles inject for you and be there to make sure you are physically safe.

==== Links ====

* [http://www.hipforums.com/newforums/showpost.php?p=6347899&postcount=5 Entheogen Review article on safe injection proceedure]
* [https://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4128 iv dmt]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1521 IV DMT]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3016 IV DMT?]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=144148 Injecting DMT]
* [https://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=7450 FASA safe for injection?]

=== How can I estimate the amount of mimosa? ===

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=236540#post236540 Estimating mimosa amount]

== DMT/Plant storage ==

=== Does DMT go bad? ===

The main degradation product of dmt seems to be dmt n-oxide, which is also psychoactive. Some people enjoy and find qualitative difference in n-oxide compared to dmt. On the other hand, other people report negative experiences with old spice, but it is unknown how much is self-suggestion and how much is really true. The rate at which dmt converts to n-oxide logically depends on factors such as air exposure and temperature, but so far there havent been any quantitative tests to tell how fast it goes in a given condition.

In any case, n-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

Many people convert the freebase to dmt fumarate for storage, as its claimed to be a more stable salt.

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1553 DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=302112#post302112 DMT oxidation rate]

=== Does mimosa go bad? ===

Generally mimosa should not go bad even after months/years. If it looks fine and doesnt have some mutant fungus growing on it, its perfect :) There are reports of people using mimosa that was for many months or even years in a drawer without any significant problem (though as with anything, its always more prudent to store in dark, dry, cold place).

The main possible degradation is of dmt into dmt n-oxide. Dmt n-oxide is also psychoactive, but it is not soluble in naphtha, which may cause some people to get small yields when extracting from older bark. N-oxide is soluble in limonene/xylene/toluene/etc, so one could extract it with those solvents without loss of yield. Alternatively, N-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

For oral usage of mimosa, formation of n-oxide wouldnt really affect much as it will be water soluble so one will still get the effects when consuming the brew.

==== Links ====
* [[DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3570 How long should MHRB keep]

=== Whats the best way to store DMT? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

In any case, one can also convert to dmt fumarate which is a very stable salt form of dmt

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4482 Long-term storage]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4867 How to store DMT for longest]

=== Whats the best way to store Mimosa? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

Logically, bark in pieces will keep better than when powdered

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1488 Storing mimosa hostilis]

== DMT Allies ==

=== What is jungle spice ? ===

https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359543#post359543
Jungle Spice is the product resulting from an extraction of mimosa hostilis using a solvent more polar than naphtha (such as xylene, toluene, limonene, ether, DCM, etc). Sometimes people also call it JimJam, which was first called only for limonene extracted products, but analysis shown it to be equivalent to what is extracted with xylene. Chemical analysis has shown that both naphtha as well as xylene/limonene extract mostly DMT (around 90%), plus around or under 1% 2-methy-1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-beta-carboline (2MTHBC) and NMT. The psychoactivity of 2MTHBC is unknown at this point, and NMT does appear to be psychoactive, though a quarter of the potency of DMT. Appart from these mentioned alkaloids, Xylene, when evaporated, and both limonene or xylene, when salted with an acidic solution like vinegar or FASW, also yield around 0.2% MTHBC (tetrahydroharman), and what could be 1,2-dimethyl-tetrahydrobetacarboline or a yuremamine degradation product (as suggested by dozuki in the jungle spice analysis thread linked below). Very little to nothing is known about these two 'extra' beta-carbolines in junglespice/jimjam, if they are psychoactive or can potentiate DMT.

Some people claim jungle spice to be stronger or produce a different experience than pure DMT. This may be self-suggestion (people thinking it is stronger/different therefore feeling it), it may be that the inactive oils/impurities present in jungle spice somehow protect DMT from heat, making a more effective vaporization, and therefore feel stronger. It may also be that the beta carbolines together, have a synergistic effect with DMT making a stronger experience, or it may be that these beta carbolines would only really be noticeable if they were in a larger quantity as is the case with some Acacias. It may be a mixture of any or all of the above possibilities.

Only further testing (such as blind self-experiments and more analysis) will help us isolating the variables and answer the questions on junglespice's activity

For more information on jungle spice, check the links below

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1115 Jungle Spice]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=10553 Jungle Spice chemical analysis]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23544 Entheogenic effects of NMT]

=== What is changa / How to make changa ? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Changa Changa WIKI]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to DMT enhanced leaf (changa)] thread
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=27537 How does your changa looks like ?] thread

=== What type of caapi/ayahuasca vine should I use, what are the differences ? ===

Different ethnobotanical suppliers seem to stock different varieties of caapi. Often they use color names (for example black caapi, white caapi, etc), or other names used by local / mestizos / indigenous people (caupuri, ourinhos, etc). The problem is that there is no consensus regarding the classification of different caapi vines, so some indigenous people may recognize 2 types, in another tribe they may recognize 10 types, and so on. These types may overlap or they may even be in contradiction with each other. Also botanists would not necessarily agree with those types, as sometimes classification from indigenous people is not based on how a plant looks, but also on its effects, purpose, etc. In fact, some of what is sold as "black/red/whatever caapi" may even be of a different genus/species altogether (more discussion on this on links below)

There is an ongoing analysis project going on with different caapi/ayahuasca vines (link below), and it seems some caapis have very similar alkaloid/chemical component even if they have different names, while others may have quite different content even if they are named the same. The difference can be in ratio of alkaloids or total alkaloid yield, for example some black caapi from one vendor yielded over 2% alkaloids, a black caapi from another vendor yielded 0.5%.

Regarding the type/function/effects of different caapis, at this point any conclusions and generalizations are not possible. As an example, at times it's said that black caapi is used for more witchcraft kind of rituals by some shamans, but this doesnt mean that: a- that particular group is "correct", b-that other groups would agree with what they call "black caapi", c- That the black caapi you find is equivalent to that, d- that you cant use it for another purpose and have a great experience regardless.

It may be that there is a pattern between alkaloid content of different caapi vines (some may have more harmaline, or more THH, etc), but at this point we cannot yet say. Also even if a correctly identified subtype of caapi would have a specific alkaloid content, we would still have to make the assumption that the vendors are actually identifying correctly.

If you want to decide what type of caapi to get, one thing you could do is check the suppliers section and see if this specific caapi from the specific vendor has been reviewed, and dont believe in generalizations (all caapi "X" is strong and gives dark trips, all caapi "Y" is light and for beginners). Start with low dosage (10-20g) for the first time to gauge the strenght of this particular batch you have acquired, and then raise the dosage accordingly if necessary.

Another thing to do is to buy at least 2 different types and then take them in separate occasions, and then sharing the results with the community, and that way we all grow together.

Do check the links below as they have very relevant discussions regarding the different caapi types:

==== Links ====
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29967 Caapi analysis thread]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32018 Poorly understood family of ayahuasca vines]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=30106 tetrapterys methystica (painted caapi) and other kinds of caapi]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=325495#post325495 Which caapi should I get ?]

== Plant sources ==

=== What are the best DMT-containing plants in my area ? ===

One good way to check what DMT plants you have around you is to look at the Nexus Wiki lists for [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT plants containing DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT] ) . Then use the search function of [http://www.discoverlife.org discoverlife page] or [http://bonap.org/genera-list.html bonap] to search the plants names and see in the species map if any of the good candidates grow near you, or alternatively, you can first identify the plants growing around you and search for their scientific name on the mentioned wiki lists.

If you don't find any plants growing around you, you can consider cultivating some ideal plants yourself, for example checking out the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=38229 Top Acacias To Grow Worldwide Thread] for the mid-long term, or getting known cuttings of phalaris with good alkaloid content such as AQ1 and big medicine (for more info check all the links in the first post of the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]) which can be harvested pretty quick

=== Does this plant contain DMT ? ===

Often people ask in the forum if the plant they have growing around them contains DMT. Then they might post pictures of the plants and expect an identification. Before that is done, the person asking needs to do some basic things:

1- Look up the information to know the plants that contain interesting alkaloids. The best resources are the Nexus wiki of plants containing [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT].

If it's an Acacia, read the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Acacia information thread] and if it's a Phalaris read the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]. Those threads contain information on seed suppliers, geographic location, season of harvest, conditions of growth and variation in alkaloid content, etc, which the person should become familiar with.

2-The person should try to identify the local plants based on the information in the above links. Posting picture of random plants without at least having some clue on what they could be, will only make everybody's life much harder. Look up images of suspected plants and compare, see in what they may differ.

3- Take detailed pictures of the different plant parts (overall plant, leaf close up front and back, seedpods and flower close ups if they are there). Often to differentiate between species the details are important, so blurry bad quality pictures or single pictures with no close ups or details of different plant parts are not enough.

4- Post your ID request in the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=358663#post358663 Acacia ID thread] if it's a suspected Acacia, or make a new thread if it's a differen't plant. Be sure to say what plant you think it is, and include information such as general geographic area, the detailed pics above, and any possible differences you may have seen with the plant you think it is.

5- If your plant gets identified and you plan on harvesting, please only harvest sustainably! Check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=344487#post344487 this] post for more information

== Links =='''

''''[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Containing_Plants WIKI -> DMT Containing Plants].''''

''''[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Botanicals WIKI -> Botanicals].''''

.

== Reference ==
<references/>

Category:Extraction Tek

2014-04-16T20:28:33Z

Cosmic Spore:

An Extraction Tek is a manual to extract certain chemicals from a given source.

To learn more about extractions in general and how they work, check the [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Where_to_start.3F FAQ], the [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT_Extraction_Overview extraction overview], as well as read a few different teks, even if you don't plan on doing them, because many of them explain the processes and why each step is done.

One does not need to be a chemist to perform an extraction. Don't worry about not understanding everything at first. Keep reading, inform yourself, take safety precautions, don't throw anything away before you're done with your extraction and don't consume anything you are not sure its clean.

{{Main Page/Portal|[[Image:Information.png]]|'''[[:Category:Extraction_Tek|Extraction Teks]]'''|
<table>
<tr>
<td>
==DMT==
===A/B===

* [[Lextek]]
* [[Marsofold's tek]]
* [[Shaggy's Jungle Tek]]
* [[The DMT Handbook]]
* [[Vovin's tek]]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=39030 ACRB Tek By Thick-Light]

===STB===

* [[Jorkest's D-Limonene and Fumaric Acid Approach]]
* [[Lazyman's tek]]
* [[Noman's tek]]
* [[STC - Dream Weaver's tek]]

===STB-A/B hybrid===

* [[BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_AB|BLAB]]
* [[PanoraMIX European AB]]
* [[Nontoxic_limonene_tek|SyZyGyPSy's Nontoxic Limomene Tek]]
* [[Cyb's Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek]]

===Dry tek===

* [[Amor fati's Nontoxic Approach to Spice Extraction]]
* [[Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek]]

==MESCALINE==

===A/B===

* [[Kash's A/B Mescaline Extraction]]

===STB===

* [[LucidLemonade's sunflower oil mescaline extraction]]

===Crude extract===

* [[House's cacti preparation tek]]

===Dry tek===

* [[69ron's D-Limonene Mescaline Extraction]]

==BUFOTENINE==

===Dry tek===

* [[Jorkest's D-Limonene Bufotenine Extraction]]
* [[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=10071 No smell bufo extraction]]

===IPA extract===

* [[Bufotenine IPA Extraction and Bufojam Changa Tek]]

==HARMALAS==

===A/B===

* [[Harmalas Extraction and Separation Guide]]
* [[EASY Harmaloid Freebase TEK]]
* [[Easy Caapi Vine Alkaloid Extraction Guide]]
* [[Enoons Cold Caapi Tek]]
* [[The Tao of Rue Extraction]]

===Crude Manske (salt) Extract===

* [[Harmine Crystals from Syrian Rue]]

==LSA==

===IPA extract===

* [[PanoraMIX HBWR Extract]]

===Acetone extract===

* [[Kash's Advanced LSA Extraction]]

==SALVIA==

===Acetone extract===

* [[PanoraMIX salvia extact]]

</td>
</tr>
</table>
}}

[[Category:Tek]]

FAQ - DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide

2014-04-16T16:57:56Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Links */

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of the 'DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide'<ref>DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide
[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6341]</ref>.}}

== DMT overview ==

=== What is DMT, Where do I learn the basics? ===

DMT is a naturally occuring substance, present in trace amounts in normal human metabolism (and its purpouse is unknown, check question [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Is_it_true_the_pineal_gland_produces_DMT_naturally_and_is_involved_in_dreaming.3F 2.1] , as well as in a variety of plants and animals.

It can be extracted from some of these plants and smoked for some very strong psychedelic/entheogenic effects lasting 10 minutes. It can also be taken orally, but we have an enzyme (MAO) in our stomach that destroys dmt if taken orally, so for taking orally DMT must be acompanied by a substance that inhibits this enzyme (MAOI, or MAO Inhibitor), which is also present in some other plants.

Ayahuasca, a sacred drink used by indigenous people of the Amazon, is an example of a drink made from a dmt-containing plant (Psychotria viridis), together with a MAOI containing plant (Banisteriopsis caapi), that is drank orally for a psychedelic/entheogenic experience lasting around 4 hours.

When smoking, we do not need to use MAOI because we do not have MAOs in our lungs. Nevertheless, some people like to also ingest MAOIs before vaporizing DMT, or vaporizing a MAOI together with the DMT (such as in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ_-_DMT_Frequently_Asked_Questions_and_Troubleshooting_Guide#What_is_changa_.2F_How_to_make_changa_.3F changa]), to make the experience last longer.

For learning more about DMT, this whole webpage is dedicated to it. Here's a few links

==== Links ====

* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dimethyltryptamine Wikipedia DMT Link]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/ The Dmt Nexus Wiki]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ Frequently Asked Questions]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=forum Main Dmt Nexus Forum]

=== Are there different types of DMT? ===

DMT can be in salt form or in freebase form. A salt form means the DMT is attached to an acid molecule. DMT is naturally in salt form in the plants because of plant acids (for example dmt tannate or oxalate due to tannic or oxalic acid being present in some plants). When people extract DMT, they can make it in freebase form to smoke, because DMT in salt form can't be smoked, it has high boiling point and breaks down instead of vaporizing efficiently. Some salt forms like DMT fumarate can even be toxic to smoke due to creation of maleic anhydride during combustion.

Appart from being naturally in brews made of DMT containing plants like ayahuasca, DMT can also be made into salt for, for example DMT fumarate, when people extract it, because DMT fumarate is stable and can be stored for long, and it can be taken orally or intranasally. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods this] for more info. Regarding dosages in different salt forms, one can read [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this] thread. Each salt form of DMT have their own weight depending on the acid molecule weight (for example DMT fumarate's weight is around 76% DMT, 24% fumaric acid), so dosages could be adjusted proportionately to the amount of DMT when ingesting, but since each person is differently sensitive to DMT and since salt form may be a bit more effective to ingest orally, this "salt weight calculation" is not really necessary for DMT, one can just ingest according to [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 these] recommendations, starting low for first time, and adjusting according to own sensitivity and batch the next time.

There are other molecules which have the DMT structure built into them but they are not DMT, they have structural modifications, for example 4-HO-DMT also known as psilocin and 4-PO-DMT, psilocybin, the active compounds in mushrooms, which are different molecules altogether with their own particular effects. Small modifications in molecules can completely change effects. So psilocybin, psilocin, 5-MeO DMT, and 5-HO-DMT (bufotenine), plus others, are all different molecules, they are NOT the same as DMT. Each of them has different effects, pharmacology, etc etc. On the other hand, DMT freebase or DMT in salt form (tannate, acetate, fumarate) are all DMT.

== DMT Chemistry and Body ==

=== Is it true the pineal gland produces DMT naturally and is involved in dreaming and death? What does DMT do in the body? ===

At this point there is no evidence to support the claim that DMT is produced in the pineal or brain. It is a speculation raised by Dr Rick Strassman due to his previous interest in the pineal. So far in humans, the key enzymes necessary for this have [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=5549 not been found present in the human brain], therefore it seem more likely it is produced elsewhere in the body, though some recent research has shown in primates these enzymes are present in pineal gland. In any case nothing is really proven yet so we must avoid making claims before more data comes in.

The supposed connection of DMT and dreams, and the idea that DMT is released when we die, both are speculation with no real evidence to back them up.

It IS proven, though, for decades already, that DMT is produced in the human body and is present at all times in trace amounts, for unknown functions (which could be several functions, see last link below).

==== Links ====

*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18834 Zero proof DMT is made in the brain]
*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=295746#post295746 I dislike the "DMT is responsible for your dreams" theory]
*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18394 Rethinking DMT and the Pineal Gland]
*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18448 The functions of DMT in our body: If DMT would be a neurotransmitter]

=== Is DMT dangerous? ===

Researches have been made showing the relative safety of dmt. It does not cause physical damage, addiction, and any tolerance disappears very quickly. Ayahuasca, the dmt-containing brew from the Amazon, has been studied by multidisciplinary groups in Brazil and other countries and was shown that in a careful context, it presents no negative cognitive/psychiatric/social consequences, even in adolescents.

There is yet little research into vaporized dmt, but there seems to be no sign that it is in any way more dangerous physically than other administration forms. There are no reported deaths from smoking DMT. Smoking it will not lead to a dangerous overdose because the onset is so quick that one can only inhale a certain amount before being gone to ´hyperspace', without being able to smoke more until one is down again.

However:
* People with extreme heart or other conditions for whom strong emotions could be dangerous are contra-indicated, just like a roller coaster would for them.
* It is important to notice that with any psychedelic, it is a very powerful emotional/mental experience, so those with personal or family psychiatric history, unstable emotionally or going through some very difficult moments in life should be extremely careful.
* Also, it is possible that during the experience, one temporarily loses orientation in the consensus reality, so smoking/ingesting next to a cliff, sharp objects, etc, is not a good idea. BE IN A PHYSICALLY SAFE ENVIRONMENT!
* DO NOT use MAOIs (so for example an ayahuasca brew) together with stimulants or SSRI medication

Appart from that, there are psychological issues to be considered. Please read the health and safety section linked below, as well as the scientific articles also linked below.

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety Health And Safety Section]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1441 Scientific Articles on DMT/Ayahuasca/Psychedelics]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4400 Long term effects of smoking DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5843 DMT After-Effects]

=== Is a MAOI diet / Ayahuasca fasting necessary? What kind of dangers are there with medication interaction? ===

Unlike some pharmaceutical MAOI, the Harmalas, alkaloids present in the caapi vine and syrian rue are reversible inhibitors of MAO-A, while Tyramine, the component in some food that could cause problems in big amounts, is eliminated partly by MAO-A and but also partly by the intact MAO-B ([http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 source] ). Also for some pharmacological reason as shown in [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_fig9big.jpg this] diagram, tyramine can still be partly metabolized by MAO-A even during the harmala effects.

In other words, in terms of '''food''' interaction, the danger with reversible MAOI use (in for example ayahuasca or pharmahuasca with harmalas) and food interaction is very reduced. The necessity of the very strict dieting for ayahuasca with extensive list of what one must absolutely not eat is an exaggeration, though it is advised to eat light because extreme amounts of tyramine in some specific foods could theoretically still be a potential problem.

There seem to be no reports of actual life-threatening events with tyramine-containing foods and harmalas. There are even people that purposely ate tyramine-containing foods with no ill effects, but there have also been reports of negative symptoms such as very strong headaches and negative body load when mixing a heavy food consumption before/during/after harmala consumption. Several other variables may also be involved that are unrelated to tyramine and harmala-food interaction (variables such as for example exhaustion from the trip, vasodilation, the body/ayahuasca telling the person to 'eat better' in general, etc). Headaches seem specially common when mixing beer and harmalas.

In any case, it is generally considered common sense to eat light before and after the use of ayahuasca and analogues (and psychedelics in general). Just follow your good sense and you should be fine. To eer on the side of caution, the food to avoid eating (or over-eating) is aged or fermented food specially aged cheese, fermented or smoked meat (fish included) and soy products (though some soy products have also been found to have little tyramine content). Beer should also be avoided as some people have experienced negative interaction between MAOIs and beer. Apart from that, there are no real restrictions, eat lightly and all should be good :)

In relation to how long to wait after the last food before taking ayahuasca, this is very personal. Some like to have empty stomach and be fasting for 6 or more hours, but this is not necessary, and others feel it is even negative to fast for so long, because a too empty stomach might make one very tired during the ceremony, specialy at the end, and can also make purging a specially difficult or uncomfortable experience. Some consider better to have eaten something light (like some fruits or cereal or light sandwhich) a couple of hours before ingesting ayahuasca/analogues.

Remember: With the exception of moclobemide, which stands in the same category as harmalas as far as reversibility and food interaction goes, avoid all other pharmaceutical MAOIs !! Pharmaceutical irreversible MAOIs are VERY dangerous to take without taking strong precautions with food and drug interaction.

'''What IS dangerous is interaction between any MAOIs (including harmalas) and stimulants or some medication''' such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_serotonin_reuptake_inhibitor SSRI] medication such as prozac, or stimulants such as amphetamines or others. If you're taking SSRI's, do not consume MAOIs!! Do not mix stimulants with MAOIs either! Mixing stimulants/SSRIs with MAOIs can cause Serotonin Syndrome which may lead to convulsions or even death. For pharmaceuticals and substances that should NEVER be taken when consuming harmalas, check [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 1] and [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 2]

==== Links ====
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29131 Do you experience tyramine interaction with harmalas?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5711 Will smoked Rue cause MAOI?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5398 Think iv cracked it]
* [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=tyramine%20food%20table&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CFMQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fddr.nal.usda.gov%2Fbitstream%2F10113%2F7351%2F1%2FIND43817287.pdf&ei=PpvsT8zAEsXAhAehj-nPBQ&usg=AFQjCNGKR57Q_VTqzOjKxfvKbu0kDTB8Ng&cad=rja Scientific publication on food containing tyramine]
* [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 scientific publication on interaction of MAOIs and tyramine]

== DMT and Society ==

=== Is dmt legal? ===

Posession and sales of DMT in its pure extracted/synthesized form is illegal, schedule 1 in USA and controlled by United Nations and can land you in jail if found in most countries.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/dmt/dmt_law.shtml Erowid DMT Law Vault]

=== '''Are the natural ingredients such as mimosa, and ayahuasca, illegal?''' ===

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=21527 On the Legal Status of DMT Source Plants in the US (with a discussion of the religious use defense)]'''

==== Links ====

* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/ayahuasca/ayahuasca_law.shtml Erowid Ayahuasca Law Vault]
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/plants/mimosa/mimosa_law.shtml Erowid Mimosa Law Vault]

=== Whats the price of dmt / Can I trade dmt? ===

'''[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Attitude_Page#No_discussion_on_selling.2C_buying.2C_sourcing.2C_acquiring.2C_pricing.2C_trading.2C_mentioning_pending_deliveries_or_smuggling_of_drugs No discussion on selling, buying, sourcing, acquiring, pricing, trading, mentioning pending deliveries or smuggling of drugs].'''

'''DO NOT BUY OR SELL DMT!''' We at the nexus are against selling/profiting with this incredible substance. We do not know and we do not want to know how much it costs in the street, we do not want it to be sold on the streets! This is not only disrespectful and shows a lack of understanding about the power of this substance, but its also a liability for the whole community. Dealing/trading DMT can attract the attention of authorities and create a problem not only for yourself but for all others in the community.

'''Talking about DMT sales or trade will result in suspension from the forum!'''

All the reasons why we dont believe in it are listed in the thread below

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3414 Street Value of DMT (and why you should never sell it) ]

== DMT Extraction ==

=== Where to start? ===

There are several ways of extracting DMT, and different ways use different chemicals and take different time. It is recommended that before embarking on extracting, one reads up at least a couple of different teks (link on the bottom) to understand the processes.

The basics of an extraction is:

DMT is present in many plant materials and can be isolated through simple processes. Most commonly used plant is [[Mimosa hostilis]] root bark, but there are other plants with good alkaloid profile such as certain Acacias and certain strains of [[Phalaris spp.]]

DMT in an acidic solution is in salt form and therefore water soluble, while DMT in a basic solution becomes a freebase and not water soluble but rather soluble in non-polar solvents (like limonene, naphtha, xylene, etc). This works similarly to most other alkaloids, with a few exceptions, for example harmalas freebase dont dissolve in the solvents mentioned above, but when you add a base to a solution containing harmalas, they just precipitate and you can filter them.

Back to DMT, non-polar solvents separate from water like oil, it stays as a layer on top. By playing with the pH (adding an acid or a base) you make the dmt move from one place to the other while most of other impurities dont, and then you separate the layers by pippeting/separatory funnel/decanting, and then retrieve the dmt from the non-polar solvent by evaporating it or freeze-precipitating (putting it in a closed container in the freezer, and as the temperature goes down the solubility of dmt in the solvent diminishes, so after some hours dmt precipitates and can be retrieved). There are differences depending on the process of extraction you use (for example limonene can't be evaporated and neither freeze precipitated, it's usually salted, as described in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB], but that is, in a very general way, how it works.

There are some new developed teks for extracting dmt with food-safe materials and/or no petro-chemical solvents, such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] , [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Nontoxic_Approach_to_Spice_Extraction Amor Fati's approach], or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek Q21Q21's extraction tek]. The biggest advantage is, as said, the use of relatively non-toxic material and no petrochemicals but instead solvents such as limonene, which is basically pure orange oil. The disadvantage is that to retrieve the dmt from limonene, you cannot evaporate it (as limonene doesnt evaporate cleanly, it leaves gooey residues), and freeze precipitation also doesnt work (as even in freeze temperatures, dmt is still too soluble in it so it doesnt precipitate), so there are 2 extra steps, which are to 'salt out' the limonene by mixing it with an acidic solution, evaporating that solution and then freebasing the resulting product if one wants to smoke it (or just keeping the salt for storage or oral consumption), as explained in the teks mentioned above. These steps are just as easy as any other step done in the earlier steps of the extraction but the fact that its two extra steps means some extra time and work which some people might not want.

There are also the standard STB (straight-to-base) teks that have been used a lot before the food-safe/limo teks, the two most common being [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Noman%27s_tek Noman's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Lazyman%27s_tek Lazyman Tek]. The mimosa (or whatever plant material extracted) is put straight in a basic solution from the beginning, with no acid-adding step, and hence the name. The advantage of STBs generally being that they need less steps, maybe simpler for beginners, and can usually be quicker, and the main disadvantage being the amount of lye/caustic soda they require (lye being dangerous if it spills because it causes serious chemical burns and could make one blind, though if done correctly it will not be on your final product. Also disadvantage of using much lye is it is watched in many places due to being used in meth production, so it might be suspicious to buy it, or even impossible to find, specially in some specific places of USA). Another possible disadvantage of STB teks is some people claim the final product is not as clean, its more yellow. Yellow dmt isnt necessarily a problem, though, some people even prefer it. Also, one can easily do a recrystalization (look below in the FAQ for explanation) which will effectively clean up the final product quickly and with very little solvent needed.

Then there are the A/B extractions (acid/base), such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Vovin%27s_tek Vovin's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Marsofold%27s_tek Marsofold's tek]. As the name suggests, the plant material is first simmered/boiled in acid 3x, filtered and later the base is added. The advantage being that when one is adding the base and mixing the solvent, the solids were already removed after the acid step, making it easier to mix the solvent, and easier to discard everything later. Also the acid step allows one to do a defat, though usually that is considered a wasteful way of cleaning up because it needs a lot of solvent for removing a bit of fats, which can be accomplished more efficiently with a recrystallization on the final product. The disadvantage of an A/B is that it takes longer because of the initial acid step, and if one isnt thorough enough in this acid step one will lose a lot of actives when discarding the solids before moving on to the Base step.

==== Links ====

* [[:Category:Extraction_Tek|Extraction Teks]]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1085 DMT Extraction Overview]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=318336#post318336 Art of liquid-liquid extraction - The basics]

=== What is the best tek? ===

There is no "best" tek. All teks featured in the Nexus Wiki should result in similar final product purity and yields, if correctly performed. Each tek has it's own characteristics regarding chemicals used, how long it takes, how thorough it's explained, if it includes optional clean up steps or not, etc. That is why, before deciding on one tek, it's important to read all (or at least some of them), also the "where to start" question above and the extraction overview linked there. That way you will have a better understanding of the processes instead of just blindly following a tek, which means you'll probably be more succesful with whichever tek you decide to use in the end.

=== Is my solvent/chemical OK to use? ===

Before using any solvent, one must make sure it is a clean evaporating solvent with no toxic/residual additives (or for other non-volatile chemicals used, make sure it has no toxic/unwanted additives). Always:

* Read the ingredients on the solvent's or chemical's label. Make sure it is pure with nothing appart from the desired chemical (for example: Naphtha/Aliphatic hydrocarbons)
* Google "solventbrand solvent/chemical msds", searching the brand of the solvent you have access to, to see if it has an msds, which usually contains more in depth information on what the product contains. For example "merck acetone msds". Or alternatively:
* Check the webpage linked in [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=165091#post165091 this thread] and see if your solvent and its contents is featured there
* VERY IMPORTANT: Always do an evaporating test before using a solvent for the first time: Add a quantity of the solvent to a glass/pyrex/plate (do NOT use a cd) and let it evaporate. If it leaves residues of any kind, dont use it. If it evaporates cleanly, chances are its ok to use.
* Check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=14772 this] thread on whether your chem is ok to use or where to get the right chems.

=== Is this material or container ok to use with my chemicals? ===

The keyword to search is "Chemical compatibility" or "Chemical Resistance", plus the material and solvent/chemical you are looking for. Below are some good links to help you already find the information you want:

==== Link ====

* [http://www.nalgenelabware.com/techdata/chemical/index.asp Chemical Compatibility Search]
* [http://www.coleparmer.com/techinfo/chemcomp.asp Chemical compatibility database 2]
* [http://www.greenterpene.com/GreenTerpene_Product_Compatibility_s/48.htm Limonene compatibility chart]

=== Is plastic OK to use for my extraction? ===

In short, better not. If you are going to use anyways (NOT recommended), be sure to check what kind of plastic it is, and that its compatible with the chemicals used, as in the links of the previous question. But again, better not use plastic and only use glass, read links below for explanations why:

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=26324 Warning to those using plastic containers]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=340124#post340124 Using plastic for extractions]

=== What are the different bases one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired base.

* For [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH
* For [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH, Potassium Hydroxide/KOH
* For [[:Category:Dry_Technique|Dry tek]]: Calcium Hydroxide

=== What are the different acids one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired acid.

Plenty of different kinds of acid will work, but generally people preffer the first one on the following list:
* Vinegar (acetic acid)
* Lemon Juice (citric acid)
* Phosphoric Acid
* Hydrochloric Acid/HCl/Muriatic Acid.

NOTE: Sulfuric acid is not very well suited towards this extraction, as it reacts with lye to form sodium sulfate which is very poorly water-soluble. This may result in a generous white precipitate.

Reaction:

2NaOH + H2SO4 => Na2SO4 + 2H2O

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1556 Acids]

=== How can I convert sodium bicarbonate into sodium carbonate ===

==== Link ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Conversion_of_Sodium_Bicarbonate_into_Sodium_Carbonate Sodium bicarb -> carb conversion wiki]

=== How long each acid cook? ===

30 min - 2 hours cooks in a crockpot on low-medium (or just low fire on the stove). Some people avoid boiling and only simmer, but it appears DMT salts are very stable even at boil temperatures, so there doesnt seem to be diminishing yields when boiling. Also, it's important to stir once in a while during the acid cook.

=== How many acid cooks? ===

General consensus talks about 3 runs, 2 being minimum and 5 being over-careful.

=== Can I make one long cook instead of 3 shorter ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== Which ratio of MHRB:Lye:Water is the best? ===

For STBs, 1g MHRB:1g Lye:15ml Water is generally accepted as a good ratio. People have had success with significantly less water, but 15ml per g bark is a recommended amount because less than that might make the whole mixture too thick and it can make the separation of the solvent more difficult. Also, one actually needs much less lye but this amount of lye helps prevent emulsions forming as well helps break down the plant material so that dmt is more exposed to the water.

Alternatively, one can just add enough lye for the solution to turn completely black, and go ahead and extract. If emulsions form, add more lye. One does not need to worry about over-basifying, there's no such thing. Excess lye will stay behind in the water layer once you separate the solvent in any case.

=== Can I scale down/up the amounts stated in a tek if I want to extract different amounts of mimosa? ===

Yes, just scale the quantities proportionally according to your situation

=== Can I make one big pull instead of few smaller ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be significantly smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

==== Links ====

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== How big should the pulls be / How much to pre-evaporate before freezing? ===

100ml per pull per 200g bark (or a 2:1 ratio of bark:naphtha) is a sensible recomendation. More wont hurt but it will waste solvent as you will have to evaporate much afterwards. Less solvent per pull is even better, as long as you repeat more pulls to compensate. Sometimes people use more solvent than this recommended amount, like when for example if using this ratio in one's container the layers are too thin and it is hard to separate the solvent (though there are [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#How_to_pull_.2F_get_the_solvent_off_from_the_mix.3F tricks for better separation]). If the plan is to freeze precipitate and one uses more naphtha than the recommended amount, it is recommended to pre-evaporate the naphtha before freezing.

The amount that one should pre-evaporate depends of course on how much solvent used. The idea about pre-evap is that the solvent should be as saturated as possible with dmt so that most or all of it precipitates when put in the freezer. If its not saturated enough, then not much (or not at all) will precipitate. So if one used more than 3:1 ratio of bark:solvent, then pre-evaporate enough to reach the equivalent of it (so if one used, lets say, 100ml per 100g bark, pre evaporating till a third of original volume is recommended). [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=150095#post150095 Here's] an attempt to explain why not having it saturated enough may result in no or low yield

Later pulls will most likely be less saturated with dmt than first pulls, so for the later pulls (like lets say the 4th and 5th), it would be logical to pre-evaporate even more than the first pulls. In the example given above, instead of evaporating until a third of original volume, maybe one could evaporate until there is only a quarter or a fifth of original volume.

Some people gauge the amount of pre-evaporation by doing it until the solvent starts getting cloudy.

In any case, remember to re-use the naphtha after retrieving the crystals from precipitation, and/or evaporating it all the way down to see if there are any actives that remained in the naphtha after the freeze precipitation

If one is extracting a different plant or using a different solvent, then the ratio recommendation can change. Though in extractions that one salts out the solvent (like for example in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] and other limonene-based extractions), one can (and even should) use significantly more solvent, because all alkaloids will anyways be retrieved with the salting step.

=== The layers wont separate, what to do? ===

Possible fixes:
# Dont shake next time, if you did so! Instead, Stir/roll/turn upside down slowly, several times.
# Add more basic water/lye to the mix (either mix is not basic enough or too much plant matter for too little water)
# Make a warm water bath with the whole container (remember no fire sources near solvents, and leave top slightly open for preventing building up of pressure)
# Tapping on the side of the container/vibration (like sitting on top of washing mashine)
# Adding plenty of no-additives non-iodized salt (will make the water more polar and therefore chemically help in the separation)

====Links====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5866 Naphtha won' seperate?]

=== My Solvent is Brown/Dark, what to do ? ===

It happens for some people that after mixing the solvent with the mimosa solution, the naphtha picks up a lot of color and when the layers are separated, there is no emulsion but the naphtha is very dark, brown/burgundy. The exact reasons for this are still unknown, but it seems to happen mostly with STB extractions, powdered bark and heated pulls. It may be that there are microscopic suspended particles of the mimosa/black liquid which for some reason refuse to settle, but nobody yet knows for sure.

Considering this is not an emulsion issue (if so, it can be solved as stated [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#The_layers_wont_separate.2C_what_to_do.3F here]), this issue can be solved by:

1- Wait a few hours and see if the color settles and the solvent layer gets clearer.

2- Separate the pull as you would normally, and do a sodium carbonate wash (explanation also here in the FAQ). If the wash isnt sufficient to get the dark away, then :

3- Do a 'mini A/B' (mixing the separated dark solvent with vinegar 3x, separating the vinegar and discarding the solvent. Then basify the vinegar by adding lye, and pull with fresh solvent)

=== How to pull / get the solvent off from the mix? ===

* [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Each person finds his own way. One of the practical ways is to first, with HDPE or glass pipette/turkey baster/glass syringe, crudely separate the solvent and maybe a bit of the mimosa mix into a tall thin container. Then, with another pipette/glass syringe (or same one, washed), separate the solvent (it will be easier due to being thiner container, so solvent layer will be thicker than before) to the final container for evap or freeze precip. On this second separation, only pull out what you are sure you can do accurately, and the last bit throw back into the main container. Often people complain that the turkey baster wont hold the solvent well and will start releasing liquid as soon as you stop pulling. A [http://www.plastyshack.com/images/glass_syringe.jpg glass syringe] or pipette will work better, you can find them sold in lab/chem/medical supply stores or online in a variety of shops.

* [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Same as above, or also using a separatory funnel.

=== Should I wash my spice? ===

Washing spice has as a main function to eliminate any possible lye or other polar impurities (like droplets of the mimosa basic mix) from the final product, which might make the smoke harsher. Nevertheless, unless one was sloppy and some of the basic mimosa liquid came through to the solvent when separating, there should be nothing or very small amounts of it in your final product.

In any case if one feels better making sure the spice is cleaner (because we all know how important our mental state is in these experiences, even if its clean but if you're worried it might make the experience worse), or if one's spice is unusually harsh, then proceed to a sodium carbonate wash (DO NOT WASH WITH AMMONIA! Many people report losing yield with ammonia wash )

# Have your product still in the solvent, before evaporation/precipitation. If you have already in crystal form, redissolve in a naphtha/heptane/hexane.
# Add anywhere in between a pinch to 5 grams of sodium carbonate (yes, doesnt matter... All that is necessary is for it to be a basic solution) to 100ml clean water.
# Add your spice-containing solvent and the sodium carbonate solution together in a container. Mix/shake/whatever (emulsions will not form).
# Separate the solvent from the sodium carbonate solution using pippette/turkey baster/syphon/separatory funnel. One can repeat steps 2-4 if desired, but not strictly necessary
# Freeze precipitate or evaporate to retrieve your DMT

Remember that regardless of washing, its still very important to make sure there are no solvent traces in your spice, which can be done with thorough air drying, or redissolving your dmt in a non-toxic (or less toxic) solvent like ethanol, or pure IPA/Acetone, and evapping that again

=== No precipitation or low yield? ===

# Stir/mix and let separate the layers many times over a longer period of time before pulling the solvent out of the mix, dont just let it stand.
# Evap till theres only a quarter of the naphtha left and repeat freeze precip. If this doesnt help:
# Add more lye/base in the basic solution and try again, with small warm, thoroughly mixed pulls
# If its evapped and it seems like small amount of goo, it may actually be more than it seems because goo is heavier crystals. Recrystallize goo as FAQ instructions or infuse some herbs and weigh herbs before and after infusing to know exact yield.

Other possibilities:
* Bad mimosa/plant material
* Not the right solvent (if solvent has aromatics like xylene mixed in, it wont freeze precipitate, and will evap into a gooey product, mix of dmt and other plant impurities)

=== Melting/dissapearing crystals after freeze precipitation / Whats the best way to retrieve crystals after freezing? ===

This usually happens because of remaining solvent residues warming up and redissolving the crystals.

A trick to work around that is to freeze precipitate for a day or so (if you already have the melted crystals, then redissolve them in small amounts of warm naphtha and back into the freezer), and after crystals have precipitated, take it out of the freezer, pour the naphtha off (through coffee filter just in case any crystals are not stuck to the container), close the container and put it upside down in the freezer for some more hours. This way, any remaining naphtha trapped inside the crystals will drop off to the lid of the container on the bottom.

So after those few hours, take out out of the freezer, opening the lid still upside down so the naphtha drops off, and then you can scrape the drier crystals, put them on top of a coffee filter or on a plate/petri dish to finish air drying, and voilá.

The container used for precipitation is ideally something with a lid that closes well, like a mason jar, and that the edges and walls are straight so you can scrape it off more easily. Scrape as much as you can of the dmt, and whatever is left inside, leave it and reuse the container for the next precipitation, or if its the last precipitation of the extraction, you can use some alcohol (or even naphtha, if its clean evapping naphtha) to pick the last bits up and evaporate in a dish or easy to scrape flat-bottom wide container.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=2290 DMT crystals melting]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=72767#post72767 Question about freeze precipitation times]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3519 Yellow goo. Won't crystallize]

=== How to safely heat a solvent ? ===

With the solvent safely stored far away, boil some water with any method you want. Once water is boiled, turn off heat source, get the solvent, put it in a glass and submerge the bottom of the glass on a pot containing your recently boiled water. In some seconds/minutes your solvent should be warm and you can use it for recrystallizing or pulling. NEVER warm up solvents directly with a heat source, specially no gas/open fire but even do not use electrical equipment unless it's a safe laboratory hotplate made for such purposes that will guarantee not to create sparks.

=== How does one recrystallize? ===

1- Boil some water. Turn off the fire.

2- Add your impure spice to a shotglass (weigh it before to know the amount).

3- Add around 20-30ml of naphtha/heptane/hexane per gram of impure spice to the shotglass.

4- submerge the bottom of the glass in the water. Leave it standing and/or stir it around a little bit. Most of the spice should redissolve in a few minutes, but probably a layer of goo will stay on the bottom.

5-Decant or pippette your naphtha away from the goo, put this naphtha in a clean container, close it, and into the freezer overnight for freeze precipitation. Alternatively, instead of freezing, if one wants to grow large crystals, put in a container with the lid semi-closed and/or in a place with very little air circulation, so that the naphtha evaporates very slowly. The slower the evap, the larger the crystal growth.

Its possible small amount of spice is still in the goo, so you can add another 5 or 10ml to the shotglass with the goo to pick up the last bits of dmt. This second pull will be more impure as it will pick some oils up, so freeze precipitate it separately. The goo can then be discarded

If one doesnt have a scale or for some reason cant weigh the spice, warm up a quantity of naphtha in a shotglass without the dmt and slowly add small quantities of the warm naphtha to the container containing dmt while stiring, until most dmt dissolved but a bottom layer of goo remains. Then follow step 5.
http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Can_I_make_one_long_cook_instead_of_3_shorter_ones.3F

==== Links ====

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=10545#post10545 Glass Shard Re-Crystallization Pictorial]

=== How many times can I reuse my solvent? ===

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=335995#post335995 On reusing non polar solvents]

=== What to do with the waste? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3072 What to do with the waste]

=== How Can I Extract DMT From Phalaris? ===

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phalaris_%28grass%29 Phalaris] is a genus of grasses with very variable alkaloid content, which means it's very hard or impossible to really say if a given Phalaris will have a good alkaloid content in terms of what alkaloids are present and in what amounts. Some Phalaris have very little to no DMT (or 5-MeO-DMT or Beta-Carbolines), and yet have plenty of potentially toxic alkaloids such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gramine gramine], while others have good amounts of wanted tryptamines and low gramine content. There are also tryptamines and beta-carbolines in Phalaris which have unknown activity and safety profile such as 5-MeO-NMT and others. This variability is especially the case with wild Phalaris or those grown from seeds so, for a more reliable alkaloid content, the clones of known strains such as AQ1, Big Medicine (for DMT) and Turkey Red (for 5-MeO-DMT) are probably a better bet.

'''Even though some people have reported some variable success, we do NOT recommend people to ingest a crude brew made with Phalaris grass due to the unknown amounts of possible toxic alkaloids. If using Phalaris, extract it first as mentioned below'''

If growing Phalaris yourself, [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/images/8/8a/Festiandsamorini.pdf this]publication goes over all the factors of growth that affect the alkaloid content. Please check it out. Here's some selected quotes:

* "The highest concentration (of alkaloids) is in the upper third part of the seedling leaf."
* "The total alkaloid concentration decreases with plant maturity"
* "Total alkaloids are more concentrated in the first regrowth, after the cutting or grazing, than in the first growth just after sowing, decreasing then in the following regrowths"
* "The availability of soil nitrogen increases the alkaloids concentration"
* "In soil, but not in nutrient solution cultivations, the concentration of indole alkaloids (...) increase is greater in plants supplied with ammonium nitrogen compared to the nitric source"
* "Samples of P. arundinacea growing with 20% of the full sunlight can contain an amount of DMT about twice compared to control; 5-MeO-DMT may increase up to a factor of 25"
* "DMT seems to show a maximum in the first hours of the morning, at least in shaded plants, whereas 5-MeODMT reaches a concentration peak in late morning"

Regarding the extraction itself, the plant should be extracted as soon as possible after harvesting since plant enzyme activity can break down alkaloids, even if drying the plant. If plant is not extracted immediately, it should be stored in an alcoholic solution in cold and dark. For extraction, a standard A/B could potentially work well, boiling plant material 3x in acidic water (pH anywhere from 1-6 should work), filtering, reducing to small manageable amount by low boil or simmering, and then basing with NaOH and pulling with solvent. Alternatively, a dry tek (check the nexus extraction teks wiki for more info) with calcium hydroxide or sodium carbonate could work but there haven't been enough tests to say for sure.

Regarding what solvents to use, hexane/heptane or equivalent solvents such as naphtha should work well as gramine is very poorly soluble in it, but if using naphtha make sure that it doesn't contain xylene or aromatics mixed in. Some people report specially low yields with naphtha and suggest cooking oil or room temperature limonene instead (check hippie salad oil tek link below) Cold/room temperature limonene also seems to work to separate tryptamines from gramine but more work needs to be done to make sure this separation is good enough. Check the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] for the most up-to-date info, since solubility tests on gramine are being done right now. If using naphtha or similar hydrocarbons, doing a recrystallization is a good idea to help removing other unwanted alkaloids that may have come across. Using less selective solvents like DCM, xylene, toluene or others (or acetone or alcohols in a dry tek) would pull the potentially toxic unwanted alkaloids, so its not recommended to use those, unless you do a clean up at the end

If you extract from Phalaris, we would be very thankful if you document the process (notes and/or pictures) and post so that we all can learn about the results, whether they are good or not. Please try smoking/ingesting only a very small amount at first if you do. Ideally, purchase colorimetric reagents such as marquis or ehrlich to help identifying the final product if it contains the wanted alkaloids (more info in the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] )

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=44863 Hippie salad oil tek v 2]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=16810&p=7 Phalaris way of the future thread]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=28869 PDF on processing phalaris]

=== Can I use another solvent like xylene after having pulled with naphtha? ===

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359465#post359465 Can SWIM Use Dif Solvents To Extract Different Ranges of Spice?]

== DMT Usage/Methods of administration ==

=== Is my spice ok to smoke? ===

Often people ask in the forum if their spice is ok to smoke, followed by a picture or description of the dmt's appearance. Nevertheless, there are several other variables which simple color does not tell, and which are essential to decide whether one shoud or not smoke it. Please check link below for detailed information:

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=11715 IMPORTANT: spice color purity fallacy AKA is your dmt ok to smoke ? ]

=== How to brew ayahuasca or analogues (mimosa hostilis / syrian rue)? ===

The standard way of brewing is to first of all have the material powdered/grinded or pounded as fine as possible. Then
* 1- boil on low fire (or simmer) the plant material for around three hours (some people do even longer but not necessary unless material is too coarsely shredded.. Also energetic/ecological costs become higher). Use mineral or distilled water ideally, some tap water can have too high pH and diminish yields/potency. Use enough water to cover the plant material.
* 2- filter/strain the brew to separate the liquids and solids, store the liquid separately,
* 3- add fresh water to the solids and boil everything again. Do this for a total of 3 or 4 times,
* 4- put the liquid from the 3 or 4x boils together, keep filtered/decanted solids separately for stp 6,
* 5- reduce the liquid on low fire/simmer to a manageable ammount, like for example 70ml per dose (dosages/amounts of each plant in [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this thread]

OPTIONAL:
* 6- If you want to be very thorough and get all the alkaloids out, you can now soak the plant material in vinegar for a day, then freeze and thaw it, then boil it for another hour or two. This should have a significant amount of alkaloids, which can either be extracted by basing and filtering like the Easy Caapi Extraction Tek, and the alkaloids added to the main brew (or consumed separately in some other occasion), or you could also consume this orally directly but due to the vinegar it will taste very bad, so it's better to at least base it with sodium carbonate slowly until it stops bubbling and/or reaches a pH of around 6, and then it will taste better.

The MAOI containing plant (banisteriopsis caapi vine or syrian rue) can be boiled together with the DMT containing plant (psychotria viridis or mimosa hostilis, or just add some extracted dmt in appropriate dosage to the caapi/rue brew), but specially if its the first time with a particular plant batch, its recommended to brew separately the two, and first find out the potency of the plant by drinking first a small amount.

An acid can be added to the brew (such as a dash of lemon or vinegar), but this is not strictly necessary (and neither the traditional indigenous way), specially if your plant is finely powdered, because alkaloids in the plant are naturally in water-soluble form. Though acid can increase the potency of the brew (specially for non-powdered plant material), it will also make it taste worse. To get the best out of all the worlds, its recommended to do step 6, so you have a better tasting brew without acid, but you still get any remaining alkaloids at the end in the final acid soak.

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8972 all about aya <3 ]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=51 Ayahuasca subforum]

=== Whats the best smoking method? ===

The [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] gives some tips not only on vaporizing methods but other tips, check it out.

Different people preffer different methods. FORGET THE LIGHTBULB METHOD as it only works for a small percentage of people, most report problems.

-
==== '''Vaporgenie''' ====

A big number of people in the Nexus claim the vaporgenie to be the best vaporizing method by far! The vaporgenie is claimed to be significantly more effective as well as having a much smoother vapor than other smoking methods so if one is having trouble with harsh smoke or low effects, try the vaporgenie out. The Glass VaporGenie is recommended but otherwise the classic one will work perfectly fine.

The first thing if you're vaporizing pure DMT, is to get a [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=42867 ceramic disc] or a volcano liquid pad and cut it up to fit the vaporgenie, otherwise the DMT will melt through the screens, even if it's multiple screens. Check the vaporgenie thread linked below for more details

Begin with the flame a few cms above the top and adjust as you go. With empty lungs, start inhaling slowly and steady. The idea is to inhale a dense vapour, but not too dense so that you start coughing. Its better to begin the inhaling with a not so dense smoke, and then make it denser towards the end. Keep the vapor in the lungs for as long as possible, at least 10 seconds. If you coughed or exhaled before this or couldnt inhale with all the lungs, try keeping the flame further away or adjusting the speed of inhaling so that its a bit less dense.

Usually it takes anywhere between 1-3 hits, or anywhere between 25-50mg for a full breakthrough, if you got your technique right. A torch lighter is recommended, but a normal lighter will also work fine.

- If you cant or dont want to afford a vaporgenie, a good possibility is to make your own vaporization tool like:

===='''amorfati's Inspirator MKII'''====

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8985 Link to how to build/use the Inspirator mKII]

For a vaporization to be really effective, the DMT should be heated by convection (hot air), not conduction (hot glass/pipe/material), so vaporgenie and inspirator are recommended. If you dont want to use these methods, there are other possibilities which are less effective and risk burning DMT instead of just vaporizing, but it does work decently enough for many people:

===='''- Bong/leaf bed/enhanced leaf'''====

One method also considered successful by some is in a water bong (or plain bong), with a couple of metal screens, a thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on the bottom, then the dmt in the middle, and then another thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on top.
It is essential to go very easy on the fire, because too much heat will degrade DMT. Keep the lighter as far away as possible so that it still vaporizes but doesnt over-heat your DMT
50mg seems to be a good dose if one wants to really go inside the dmt dimension. Inhale slowly and deeply, holding in the lungs as much as possible (at least a few seconds), exhaling, and then taking a second, third one if possible, and even fourth one if one still can. Even if after the first there are already some effects, if one really wants to breakthrough, gotta keep going as much as one can.

Specifically for enhanced leaf check link below

====''' The Machine'''====

Check links below

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=39961#post39961 VG VaporGenie: How to use, where to get, advantages, etc]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6014 Helps and tips for smoking spice]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=280594 My version of the "Machine" - How to make it in <15 minutes]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6131 Ban the Bulb - Modify the Machine]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to enhanced leaf changa]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5633 Thoughts on using a VaporGenie]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6317 Troubles with The Machine]

=== I dont get any effects/light buzz only, what to do? ===

99% of the times, when people do not get effects, they are having a bad vaporization method, most likely burning the sspice. Try one of the methods above, and considering it is dmt and one smokes it right, it should work. Other possibility is that one has a very impure product with too much plant oils and so on. One can perform one or more recrystalizations to get a purer product that is easier to weight accurately and vaporize, and then try methods above.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=86732#post86732 Trouble Breaking Through???]

=== Fear going into a trip ===

If you're afraid of dark things coming from inside of you and are not willing to face them, you should not consume any psychedelics at all...

If you're afraid but willing to face them, then that's another thing.

And whether it's changa, pharma, or aya or vaporized DMT, it doesn't matter much, those dark things can come out with one or the other.

A low dosage may help, yes, and so can a proper set and setting, but this is no guarantee you won't be facing what you fear the most. It can, and most likely will happen at some point, whether now or after a certain number of experiences. Whenever we take psychedelics, it's as if we sign a contract saying we accept all those possibilities. So think well before signing, and if you do sign, make sure to get all the preparations right before the time come, take it in a proper context and to humbly accept whatever may come, take responsibility for it, and learn from it.

==== Link ====

*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=470491#post470491 Suddenly concerned]

=== Denied breakthrough / Dark DMT trips / Not good experiences anymore ? ===

It happens with several people that they feel they aren't getting good experiences anymore, that the trips are consistently of dark motifs, negative feelings, or that the breakthrough is denied, regardless of dosage. There isn't a ready answer for why this happens, but it seems a few factors may be related to it. In many cases, this happens when people are having a regular or excessive DMT use, or when they haven't been dedicating enough to their daily lives, to [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration integration] of the experiences. Also, it may have in some cases to do with the intentions one sets before vaporizing the DMT, and with how one's mind state and the context in general is.

So a few tips on how to deal with this issue:

1- Take a break! The DMT hyperspace will always be there, there is no rush to go right now! Stop your DMT usage (and maybe drug usage altogether), dedicate to daily life, live a balanced healthy life, eat well, exercise, study, work. Do not obsess about DMT, try to only come back once you feel you have really made enough effort in improving your daily life. At least a few months break is recommended.

2- If and once you do decide to try it again, make sure it is a good place and time for it. Take care with using in the best set and setting possible (look further down the FAQ for recommended setting).

3- Do not smoke it impulsively. Meditate or spend a few minutes in silence, concentrating, breathing deeply and slowly.

4- Set your intentions straight. Question yourself why you are doing this. Try to have the best intentions and reasons as possible.

5- Use a good smoking method such as the vaporgenie or others as recommended above.

6- If it still doesnt work out for you, take an even longer break (many months/years), and/or stop it altogether. Realize that maybe DMT is just not for you. Its not a problem to admit one's relationship with a substance is not working, in fact, it shows you're being humble and conscious.

==== Link ====

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration Health and Safety section: Integration]
* [https://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=169680#post169680 what happened to the bright side?]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=13515 Vaporized DMT not having an effect in those who it has worked for previously]

=== What are the dosages for ... ? ===

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 Dosages and different forms of ingestion]

=== What is the best setting/context to consume spice? ===

Check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] for some tips on setting, preparation and also integration

* A comfortable quiet place is generally recommended. If there are friends around they should be requested to remain quiet while someone is embarking on this experience and only start speaking once the explorer talks himself and allows others. Possibility of telefone ringing or street noises or other interruptions is definitely NOT recommended.
* The presence of music or not depends a lot on personal taste. Some prefer full silence to 'concentrate' more deeply and mention that any stimulus keeps them too grounded in usual reality, while others can have very deep interconnected experiences with certain music of their own preference (often being some kind of chill out/ambient/ethno ).
* Many people preffer full darkness or indirect lighting, but sunset or sunrise in a nice nature place (if safe) can also be marvelous.
* Obviously '''DO NOT''' have sharp objects around, smoke next to cliffs, driving etc...
* It is very rare, but it may happen that one feels nauseated and/or vomits, so specially first times or those doing alone, its also recommended to have a bucket nearby, and to sit comfortably, resting the back against something soft in a way that you wont slip or fall, such as an armchair, bed with backrest/pillows or comfortable sofa.
* While we are not aware of any deaths, it would be irresponsible to discount the possibility that blocking your airway while deep in hyperspace could prove fatal, so be in a position/place where you are safe even if not conscious of the surroundings. During traditional ayahuasca ceremonies participants sit on the floor or in a comfortable chair. We recommend sitting upright (slightly reclined for stability) comfortably because the launch is far more immediate and surprising with vaporised DMT. Think of it as your pilot seat- you wouldn't fly a plane any other way!
* If you do not have a sitter to take the pipe from you, be sure that you have a safe and easy place very near to put it down when you feel hyperspace approaching. You will not be inclined to move your hand very far, so we would recommend a fireproof shelf of sorts less than a foot away. Just smoking cigarettes in bed kills many people every year, and obviously the same dangers are relevent with DMT. We have heard one report of a member who returned from an unenjoyable trip to find that she had dropped the pipe onto her leg, resulting in a nasty burn.
* Prior meditation or at least focusing on intention and inner calm can be benefiting.
* Remember to let go, dont struggle. Its normal that the hearbeat accelerates in the come up. Some people fear they are dying or that they wont return, but dont worry FOR SURE you come back, as it has happened with everybody else. Some people feel that they lose their breath, but its just a feeling.. As long as the airway is not physically blocked, then dont worry our body has a built-in mechanism that prevents one from stopping breathing.
* Dont be scared, entities cant hurt you in real life if you dont believe it. Try to not make 'good/bad' judgements during the experience, dont resist!! Just go with the flow of the ride. Some images may appear positive, negative, incredible, impossible to describe, etc, but you are safe regardless of what comes.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5900 Favourite setting for smoking DMT]

=== What about other ingestion methods (intranasal, intrarectal, Atomizer/E-cig etc) ? ===

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods Ingestion Methods]

=== Can DMT be IVed? ===

It can, but we do not recommend it mainly for two reasons:

1- The only official research done with DMT by Rick Strassmann used FDA-approved ultra pure DMT fumarate. The quality of home extraction products is questionable, one may have solvent traces and other impurities that could be uncomfortable, painful or downright dangerous to inject.

2- The onset of the effects are so quick that one might not be able to take out the needle in time and accidentally ripping their vein out while in hyperspace, or putting it down too near and rolling around/puncturing oneself

IF one is gonna do it inspite of contrary recommendations, then please: Take care in making many purifying steps (several recrystallizations/washes) and making sure it has no solvent or other chemical traces in the final product (redissolving the recrystallized product in USP grade acetone or ethanol and re-evaporating, scrapping and letting it dry completely before converting to fumarates in a sterile solution, etc.). Check the first link below for tips on how to prepare for injection and safety proceedures

Also, for the first try, take at most 0.2mg/kg, preferably less. And VERY importantly, [[do NOT do it by yourself]], have a sitter that is experienced with needles inject for you and be there to make sure you are physically safe.

==== Links ====

* [http://www.hipforums.com/newforums/showpost.php?p=6347899&postcount=5 Entheogen Review article on safe injection proceedure]
* [https://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4128 iv dmt]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1521 IV DMT]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3016 IV DMT?]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=144148 Injecting DMT]
* [https://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=7450 FASA safe for injection?]

=== How can I estimate the amount of mimosa? ===

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=236540#post236540 Estimating mimosa amount]

== DMT/Plant storage ==

=== Does DMT go bad? ===

The main degradation product of dmt seems to be dmt n-oxide, which is also psychoactive. Some people enjoy and find qualitative difference in n-oxide compared to dmt. On the other hand, other people report negative experiences with old spice, but it is unknown how much is self-suggestion and how much is really true. The rate at which dmt converts to n-oxide logically depends on factors such as air exposure and temperature, but so far there havent been any quantitative tests to tell how fast it goes in a given condition.

In any case, n-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

Many people convert the freebase to dmt fumarate for storage, as its claimed to be a more stable salt.

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1553 DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=302112#post302112 DMT oxidation rate]

=== Does mimosa go bad? ===

Generally mimosa should not go bad even after months/years. If it looks fine and doesnt have some mutant fungus growing on it, its perfect :) There are reports of people using mimosa that was for many months or even years in a drawer without any significant problem (though as with anything, its always more prudent to store in dark, dry, cold place).

The main possible degradation is of dmt into dmt n-oxide. Dmt n-oxide is also psychoactive, but it is not soluble in naphtha, which may cause some people to get small yields when extracting from older bark. N-oxide is soluble in limonene/xylene/toluene/etc, so one could extract it with those solvents without loss of yield. Alternatively, N-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

For oral usage of mimosa, formation of n-oxide wouldnt really affect much as it will be water soluble so one will still get the effects when consuming the brew.

==== Links ====
* [[DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3570 How long should MHRB keep]

=== Whats the best way to store DMT? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

In any case, one can also convert to dmt fumarate which is a very stable salt form of dmt

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4482 Long-term storage]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4867 How to store DMT for longest]

=== Whats the best way to store Mimosa? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

Logically, bark in pieces will keep better than when powdered

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1488 Storing mimosa hostilis]

== DMT Allies ==

=== What is jungle spice ? ===

https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359543#post359543
Jungle Spice is the product resulting from an extraction of mimosa hostilis using a solvent more polar than naphtha (such as xylene, toluene, limonene, ether, DCM, etc). Sometimes people also call it JimJam, which was first called only for limonene extracted products, but analysis shown it to be equivalent to what is extracted with xylene. Chemical analysis has shown that both naphtha as well as xylene/limonene extract mostly DMT (around 90%), plus around or under 1% 2-methy-1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-beta-carboline (2MTHBC) and NMT. The psychoactivity of 2MTHBC is unknown at this point, and NMT does appear to be psychoactive, though a quarter of the potency of DMT. Appart from these mentioned alkaloids, Xylene, when evaporated, and both limonene or xylene, when salted with an acidic solution like vinegar or FASW, also yield around 0.2% MTHBC (tetrahydroharman), and what could be 1,2-dimethyl-tetrahydrobetacarboline or a yuremamine degradation product (as suggested by dozuki in the jungle spice analysis thread linked below). Very little to nothing is known about these two 'extra' beta-carbolines in junglespice/jimjam, if they are psychoactive or can potentiate DMT.

Some people claim jungle spice to be stronger or produce a different experience than pure DMT. This may be self-suggestion (people thinking it is stronger/different therefore feeling it), it may be that the inactive oils/impurities present in jungle spice somehow protect DMT from heat, making a more effective vaporization, and therefore feel stronger. It may also be that the beta carbolines together, have a synergistic effect with DMT making a stronger experience, or it may be that these beta carbolines would only really be noticeable if they were in a larger quantity as is the case with some Acacias. It may be a mixture of any or all of the above possibilities.

Only further testing (such as blind self-experiments and more analysis) will help us isolating the variables and answer the questions on junglespice's activity

For more information on jungle spice, check the links below

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1115 Jungle Spice]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=10553 Jungle Spice chemical analysis]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23544 Entheogenic effects of NMT]

=== What is changa / How to make changa ? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Changa Changa WIKI]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to DMT enhanced leaf (changa)] thread
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=27537 How does your changa looks like ?] thread

=== What type of caapi/ayahuasca vine should I use, what are the differences ? ===

Different ethnobotanical suppliers seem to stock different varieties of caapi. Often they use color names (for example black caapi, white caapi, etc), or other names used by local / mestizos / indigenous people (caupuri, ourinhos, etc). The problem is that there is no consensus regarding the classification of different caapi vines, so some indigenous people may recognize 2 types, in another tribe they may recognize 10 types, and so on. These types may overlap or they may even be in contradiction with each other. Also botanists would not necessarily agree with those types, as sometimes classification from indigenous people is not based on how a plant looks, but also on its effects, purpose, etc. In fact, some of what is sold as "black/red/whatever caapi" may even be of a different genus/species altogether (more discussion on this on links below)

There is an ongoing analysis project going on with different caapi/ayahuasca vines (link below), and it seems some caapis have very similar alkaloid/chemical component even if they have different names, while others may have quite different content even if they are named the same. The difference can be in ratio of alkaloids or total alkaloid yield, for example some black caapi from one vendor yielded over 2% alkaloids, a black caapi from another vendor yielded 0.5%.

Regarding the type/function/effects of different caapis, at this point any conclusions and generalizations are not possible. As an example, at times it's said that black caapi is used for more witchcraft kind of rituals by some shamans, but this doesnt mean that: a- that particular group is "correct", b-that other groups would agree with what they call "black caapi", c- That the black caapi you find is equivalent to that, d- that you cant use it for another purpose and have a great experience regardless.

It may be that there is a pattern between alkaloid content of different caapi vines (some may have more harmaline, or more THH, etc), but at this point we cannot yet say. Also even if a correctly identified subtype of caapi would have a specific alkaloid content, we would still have to make the assumption that the vendors are actually identifying correctly.

If you want to decide what type of caapi to get, one thing you could do is check the suppliers section and see if this specific caapi from the specific vendor has been reviewed, and dont believe in generalizations (all caapi "X" is strong and gives dark trips, all caapi "Y" is light and for beginners). Start with low dosage (10-20g) for the first time to gauge the strenght of this particular batch you have acquired, and then raise the dosage accordingly if necessary.

Another thing to do is to buy at least 2 different types and then take them in separate occasions, and then sharing the results with the community, and that way we all grow together.

Do check the links below as they have very relevant discussions regarding the different caapi types:

==== Links ====
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29967 Caapi analysis thread]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32018 Poorly understood family of ayahuasca vines]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=30106 tetrapterys methystica (painted caapi) and other kinds of caapi]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=325495#post325495 Which caapi should I get ?]

== Plant sources ==

=== What are the best DMT-containing plants in my area ? ===

One good way to check what DMT plants you have around you is to look at the Nexus Wiki lists for [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT plants containing DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT] ) . Then use the search function of [http://www.discoverlife.org discoverlife page] or [http://bonap.org/genera-list.html bonap] to search the plants names and see in the species map if any of the good candidates grow near you, or alternatively, you can first identify the plants growing around you and search for their scientific name on the mentioned wiki lists.

If you don't find any plants growing around you, you can consider cultivating some ideal plants yourself, for example checking out the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=38229 Top Acacias To Grow Worldwide Thread] for the mid-long term, or getting known cuttings of phalaris with good alkaloid content such as AQ1 and big medicine (for more info check all the links in the first post of the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]) which can be harvested pretty quick

=== Does this plant contain DMT ? ===

Often people ask in the forum if the plant they have growing around them contains DMT. Then they might post pictures of the plants and expect an identification. Before that is done, the person asking needs to do some basic things:

1- Look up the information to know the plants that contain interesting alkaloids. The best resources are the Nexus wiki of plants containing [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT].

If it's an Acacia, read the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Acacia information thread] and if it's a Phalaris read the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]. Those threads contain information on seed suppliers, geographic location, season of harvest, conditions of growth and variation in alkaloid content, etc, which the person should become familiar with.

2-The person should try to identify the local plants based on the information in the above links. Posting picture of random plants without at least having some clue on what they could be, will only make everybody's life much harder. Look up images of suspected plants and compare, see in what they may differ.

3- Take detailed pictures of the different plant parts (overall plant, leaf close up front and back, seedpods and flower close ups if they are there). Often to differentiate between species the details are important, so blurry bad quality pictures or single pictures with no close ups or details of different plant parts are not enough.

4- Post your ID request in the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=358663#post358663 Acacia ID thread] if it's a suspected Acacia, or make a new thread if it's a differen't plant. Be sure to say what plant you think it is, and include information such as general geographic area, the detailed pics above, and any possible differences you may have seen with the plant you think it is.

5- If your plant gets identified and you plan on harvesting, please only harvest sustainably! Check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=344487#post344487 this] post for more information

.

== Reference ==
<references/>

FAQ - DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide

2014-04-16T16:52:43Z

Cosmic Spore:

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of the 'DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide'<ref>DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide
[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6341]</ref>.}}

== DMT overview ==

=== What is DMT, Where do I learn the basics? ===

DMT is a naturally occuring substance, present in trace amounts in normal human metabolism (and its purpouse is unknown, check question [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Is_it_true_the_pineal_gland_produces_DMT_naturally_and_is_involved_in_dreaming.3F 2.1] , as well as in a variety of plants and animals.

It can be extracted from some of these plants and smoked for some very strong psychedelic/entheogenic effects lasting 10 minutes. It can also be taken orally, but we have an enzyme (MAO) in our stomach that destroys dmt if taken orally, so for taking orally DMT must be acompanied by a substance that inhibits this enzyme (MAOI, or MAO Inhibitor), which is also present in some other plants.

Ayahuasca, a sacred drink used by indigenous people of the Amazon, is an example of a drink made from a dmt-containing plant (Psychotria viridis), together with a MAOI containing plant (Banisteriopsis caapi), that is drank orally for a psychedelic/entheogenic experience lasting around 4 hours.

When smoking, we do not need to use MAOI because we do not have MAOs in our lungs. Nevertheless, some people like to also ingest MAOIs before vaporizing DMT, or vaporizing a MAOI together with the DMT (such as in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ_-_DMT_Frequently_Asked_Questions_and_Troubleshooting_Guide#What_is_changa_.2F_How_to_make_changa_.3F changa]), to make the experience last longer.

For learning more about DMT, this whole webpage is dedicated to it. Here's a few links

==== Links ====

* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dimethyltryptamine Wikipedia DMT Link]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/ The Dmt Nexus Wiki]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ Frequently Asked Questions]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=forum Main Dmt Nexus Forum]

=== Are there different types of DMT? ===

DMT can be in salt form or in freebase form. A salt form means the DMT is attached to an acid molecule. DMT is naturally in salt form in the plants because of plant acids (for example dmt tannate or oxalate due to tannic or oxalic acid being present in some plants). When people extract DMT, they can make it in freebase form to smoke, because DMT in salt form can't be smoked, it has high boiling point and breaks down instead of vaporizing efficiently. Some salt forms like DMT fumarate can even be toxic to smoke due to creation of maleic anhydride during combustion.

Appart from being naturally in brews made of DMT containing plants like ayahuasca, DMT can also be made into salt for, for example DMT fumarate, when people extract it, because DMT fumarate is stable and can be stored for long, and it can be taken orally or intranasally. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods this] for more info. Regarding dosages in different salt forms, one can read [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this] thread. Each salt form of DMT have their own weight depending on the acid molecule weight (for example DMT fumarate's weight is around 76% DMT, 24% fumaric acid), so dosages could be adjusted proportionately to the amount of DMT when ingesting, but since each person is differently sensitive to DMT and since salt form may be a bit more effective to ingest orally, this "salt weight calculation" is not really necessary for DMT, one can just ingest according to [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 these] recommendations, starting low for first time, and adjusting according to own sensitivity and batch the next time.

There are other molecules which have the DMT structure built into them but they are not DMT, they have structural modifications, for example 4-HO-DMT also known as psilocin and 4-PO-DMT, psilocybin, the active compounds in mushrooms, which are different molecules altogether with their own particular effects. Small modifications in molecules can completely change effects. So psilocybin, psilocin, 5-MeO DMT, and 5-HO-DMT (bufotenine), plus others, are all different molecules, they are NOT the same as DMT. Each of them has different effects, pharmacology, etc etc. On the other hand, DMT freebase or DMT in salt form (tannate, acetate, fumarate) are all DMT.

== DMT Chemistry and Body ==

=== Is it true the pineal gland produces DMT naturally and is involved in dreaming and death? What does DMT do in the body? ===

At this point there is no evidence to support the claim that DMT is produced in the pineal or brain. It is a speculation raised by Dr Rick Strassman due to his previous interest in the pineal. So far in humans, the key enzymes necessary for this have [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=5549 not been found present in the human brain], therefore it seem more likely it is produced elsewhere in the body, though some recent research has shown in primates these enzymes are present in pineal gland. In any case nothing is really proven yet so we must avoid making claims before more data comes in.

The supposed connection of DMT and dreams, and the idea that DMT is released when we die, both are speculation with no real evidence to back them up.

It IS proven, though, for decades already, that DMT is produced in the human body and is present at all times in trace amounts, for unknown functions (which could be several functions, see last link below).

==== Links ====

*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18834 Zero proof DMT is made in the brain]
*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=295746#post295746 I dislike the "DMT is responsible for your dreams" theory]
*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18394 Rethinking DMT and the Pineal Gland]
*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18448 The functions of DMT in our body: If DMT would be a neurotransmitter]

=== Is DMT dangerous? ===

Researches have been made showing the relative safety of dmt. It does not cause physical damage, addiction, and any tolerance disappears very quickly. Ayahuasca, the dmt-containing brew from the Amazon, has been studied by multidisciplinary groups in Brazil and other countries and was shown that in a careful context, it presents no negative cognitive/psychiatric/social consequences, even in adolescents.

There is yet little research into vaporized dmt, but there seems to be no sign that it is in any way more dangerous physically than other administration forms. There are no reported deaths from smoking DMT. Smoking it will not lead to a dangerous overdose because the onset is so quick that one can only inhale a certain amount before being gone to ´hyperspace', without being able to smoke more until one is down again.

However:
* People with extreme heart or other conditions for whom strong emotions could be dangerous are contra-indicated, just like a roller coaster would for them.
* It is important to notice that with any psychedelic, it is a very powerful emotional/mental experience, so those with personal or family psychiatric history, unstable emotionally or going through some very difficult moments in life should be extremely careful.
* Also, it is possible that during the experience, one temporarily loses orientation in the consensus reality, so smoking/ingesting next to a cliff, sharp objects, etc, is not a good idea. BE IN A PHYSICALLY SAFE ENVIRONMENT!
* DO NOT use MAOIs (so for example an ayahuasca brew) together with stimulants or SSRI medication

Appart from that, there are psychological issues to be considered. Please read the health and safety section linked below, as well as the scientific articles also linked below.

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety Health And Safety Section]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1441 Scientific Articles on DMT/Ayahuasca/Psychedelics]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4400 Long term effects of smoking DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5843 DMT After-Effects]

=== Is a MAOI diet / Ayahuasca fasting necessary? What kind of dangers are there with medication interaction? ===

Unlike some pharmaceutical MAOI, the Harmalas, alkaloids present in the caapi vine and syrian rue are reversible inhibitors of MAO-A, while Tyramine, the component in some food that could cause problems in big amounts, is eliminated partly by MAO-A and but also partly by the intact MAO-B ([http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 source] ). Also for some pharmacological reason as shown in [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_fig9big.jpg this] diagram, tyramine can still be partly metabolized by MAO-A even during the harmala effects.

In other words, in terms of '''food''' interaction, the danger with reversible MAOI use (in for example ayahuasca or pharmahuasca with harmalas) and food interaction is very reduced. The necessity of the very strict dieting for ayahuasca with extensive list of what one must absolutely not eat is an exaggeration, though it is advised to eat light because extreme amounts of tyramine in some specific foods could theoretically still be a potential problem.

There seem to be no reports of actual life-threatening events with tyramine-containing foods and harmalas. There are even people that purposely ate tyramine-containing foods with no ill effects, but there have also been reports of negative symptoms such as very strong headaches and negative body load when mixing a heavy food consumption before/during/after harmala consumption. Several other variables may also be involved that are unrelated to tyramine and harmala-food interaction (variables such as for example exhaustion from the trip, vasodilation, the body/ayahuasca telling the person to 'eat better' in general, etc). Headaches seem specially common when mixing beer and harmalas.

In any case, it is generally considered common sense to eat light before and after the use of ayahuasca and analogues (and psychedelics in general). Just follow your good sense and you should be fine. To eer on the side of caution, the food to avoid eating (or over-eating) is aged or fermented food specially aged cheese, fermented or smoked meat (fish included) and soy products (though some soy products have also been found to have little tyramine content). Beer should also be avoided as some people have experienced negative interaction between MAOIs and beer. Apart from that, there are no real restrictions, eat lightly and all should be good :)

In relation to how long to wait after the last food before taking ayahuasca, this is very personal. Some like to have empty stomach and be fasting for 6 or more hours, but this is not necessary, and others feel it is even negative to fast for so long, because a too empty stomach might make one very tired during the ceremony, specialy at the end, and can also make purging a specially difficult or uncomfortable experience. Some consider better to have eaten something light (like some fruits or cereal or light sandwhich) a couple of hours before ingesting ayahuasca/analogues.

Remember: With the exception of moclobemide, which stands in the same category as harmalas as far as reversibility and food interaction goes, avoid all other pharmaceutical MAOIs !! Pharmaceutical irreversible MAOIs are VERY dangerous to take without taking strong precautions with food and drug interaction.

'''What IS dangerous is interaction between any MAOIs (including harmalas) and stimulants or some medication''' such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_serotonin_reuptake_inhibitor SSRI] medication such as prozac, or stimulants such as amphetamines or others. If you're taking SSRI's, do not consume MAOIs!! Do not mix stimulants with MAOIs either! Mixing stimulants/SSRIs with MAOIs can cause Serotonin Syndrome which may lead to convulsions or even death. For pharmaceuticals and substances that should NEVER be taken when consuming harmalas, check [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 1] and [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 2]

==== Links ====
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29131 Do you experience tyramine interaction with harmalas?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5711 Will smoked Rue cause MAOI?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5398 Think iv cracked it]
* [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=tyramine%20food%20table&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CFMQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fddr.nal.usda.gov%2Fbitstream%2F10113%2F7351%2F1%2FIND43817287.pdf&ei=PpvsT8zAEsXAhAehj-nPBQ&usg=AFQjCNGKR57Q_VTqzOjKxfvKbu0kDTB8Ng&cad=rja Scientific publication on food containing tyramine]
* [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 scientific publication on interaction of MAOIs and tyramine]

== DMT and Society ==

=== Is dmt legal? ===

Posession and sales of DMT in its pure extracted/synthesized form is illegal, schedule 1 in USA and controlled by United Nations and can land you in jail if found in most countries.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/dmt/dmt_law.shtml Erowid DMT Law Vault]

=== '''Are the natural ingredients such as mimosa, and ayahuasca, illegal?''' ===

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=21527 On the Legal Status of DMT Source Plants in the US (with a discussion of the religious use defense)]'''

==== Links ====

* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/ayahuasca/ayahuasca_law.shtml Erowid Ayahuasca Law Vault]
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/plants/mimosa/mimosa_law.shtml Erowid Mimosa Law Vault]

=== Whats the price of dmt / Can I trade dmt? ===

'''[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Attitude_Page#No_discussion_on_selling.2C_buying.2C_sourcing.2C_acquiring.2C_pricing.2C_trading.2C_mentioning_pending_deliveries_or_smuggling_of_drugs No discussion on selling, buying, sourcing, acquiring, pricing, trading, mentioning pending deliveries or smuggling of drugs].'''

'''DO NOT BUY OR SELL DMT!''' We at the nexus are against selling/profiting with this incredible substance. We do not know and we do not want to know how much it costs in the street, we do not want it to be sold on the streets! This is not only disrespectful and shows a lack of understanding about the power of this substance, but its also a liability for the whole community. Dealing/trading DMT can attract the attention of authorities and create a problem not only for yourself but for all others in the community.

'''Talking about DMT sales or trade will result in suspension from the forum!'''

All the reasons why we dont believe in it are listed in the thread below

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3414 Street Value of DMT (and why you should never sell it) ]

== DMT Extraction ==

=== Where to start? ===

There are several ways of extracting DMT, and different ways use different chemicals and take different time. It is recommended that before embarking on extracting, one reads up at least a couple of different teks (link on the bottom) to understand the processes.

The basics of an extraction is:

DMT is present in many plant materials and can be isolated through simple processes. Most commonly used plant is [[Mimosa hostilis]] root bark, but there are other plants with good alkaloid profile such as certain Acacias and certain strains of [[Phalaris spp.]]

DMT in an acidic solution is in salt form and therefore water soluble, while DMT in a basic solution becomes a freebase and not water soluble but rather soluble in non-polar solvents (like limonene, naphtha, xylene, etc). This works similarly to most other alkaloids, with a few exceptions, for example harmalas freebase dont dissolve in the solvents mentioned above, but when you add a base to a solution containing harmalas, they just precipitate and you can filter them.

Back to DMT, non-polar solvents separate from water like oil, it stays as a layer on top. By playing with the pH (adding an acid or a base) you make the dmt move from one place to the other while most of other impurities dont, and then you separate the layers by pippeting/separatory funnel/decanting, and then retrieve the dmt from the non-polar solvent by evaporating it or freeze-precipitating (putting it in a closed container in the freezer, and as the temperature goes down the solubility of dmt in the solvent diminishes, so after some hours dmt precipitates and can be retrieved). There are differences depending on the process of extraction you use (for example limonene can't be evaporated and neither freeze precipitated, it's usually salted, as described in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB], but that is, in a very general way, how it works.

There are some new developed teks for extracting dmt with food-safe materials and/or no petro-chemical solvents, such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] , [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Nontoxic_Approach_to_Spice_Extraction Amor Fati's approach], or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek Q21Q21's extraction tek]. The biggest advantage is, as said, the use of relatively non-toxic material and no petrochemicals but instead solvents such as limonene, which is basically pure orange oil. The disadvantage is that to retrieve the dmt from limonene, you cannot evaporate it (as limonene doesnt evaporate cleanly, it leaves gooey residues), and freeze precipitation also doesnt work (as even in freeze temperatures, dmt is still too soluble in it so it doesnt precipitate), so there are 2 extra steps, which are to 'salt out' the limonene by mixing it with an acidic solution, evaporating that solution and then freebasing the resulting product if one wants to smoke it (or just keeping the salt for storage or oral consumption), as explained in the teks mentioned above. These steps are just as easy as any other step done in the earlier steps of the extraction but the fact that its two extra steps means some extra time and work which some people might not want.

There are also the standard STB (straight-to-base) teks that have been used a lot before the food-safe/limo teks, the two most common being [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Noman%27s_tek Noman's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Lazyman%27s_tek Lazyman Tek]. The mimosa (or whatever plant material extracted) is put straight in a basic solution from the beginning, with no acid-adding step, and hence the name. The advantage of STBs generally being that they need less steps, maybe simpler for beginners, and can usually be quicker, and the main disadvantage being the amount of lye/caustic soda they require (lye being dangerous if it spills because it causes serious chemical burns and could make one blind, though if done correctly it will not be on your final product. Also disadvantage of using much lye is it is watched in many places due to being used in meth production, so it might be suspicious to buy it, or even impossible to find, specially in some specific places of USA). Another possible disadvantage of STB teks is some people claim the final product is not as clean, its more yellow. Yellow dmt isnt necessarily a problem, though, some people even prefer it. Also, one can easily do a recrystalization (look below in the FAQ for explanation) which will effectively clean up the final product quickly and with very little solvent needed.

Then there are the A/B extractions (acid/base), such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Vovin%27s_tek Vovin's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Marsofold%27s_tek Marsofold's tek]. As the name suggests, the plant material is first simmered/boiled in acid 3x, filtered and later the base is added. The advantage being that when one is adding the base and mixing the solvent, the solids were already removed after the acid step, making it easier to mix the solvent, and easier to discard everything later. Also the acid step allows one to do a defat, though usually that is considered a wasteful way of cleaning up because it needs a lot of solvent for removing a bit of fats, which can be accomplished more efficiently with a recrystallization on the final product. The disadvantage of an A/B is that it takes longer because of the initial acid step, and if one isnt thorough enough in this acid step one will lose a lot of actives when discarding the solids before moving on to the Base step.

==== Links ====

* [[:Category:Extraction_Tek|Extraction Teks]]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1085 DMT Extraction Overview]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=318336#post318336 Art of liquid-liquid extraction - The basics]

=== What is the best tek? ===

There is no "best" tek. All teks featured in the Nexus Wiki should result in similar final product purity and yields, if correctly performed. Each tek has it's own characteristics regarding chemicals used, how long it takes, how thorough it's explained, if it includes optional clean up steps or not, etc. That is why, before deciding on one tek, it's important to read all (or at least some of them), also the "where to start" question above and the extraction overview linked there. That way you will have a better understanding of the processes instead of just blindly following a tek, which means you'll probably be more succesful with whichever tek you decide to use in the end.

=== Is my solvent/chemical OK to use? ===

Before using any solvent, one must make sure it is a clean evaporating solvent with no toxic/residual additives (or for other non-volatile chemicals used, make sure it has no toxic/unwanted additives). Always:

* Read the ingredients on the solvent's or chemical's label. Make sure it is pure with nothing appart from the desired chemical (for example: Naphtha/Aliphatic hydrocarbons)
* Google "solventbrand solvent/chemical msds", searching the brand of the solvent you have access to, to see if it has an msds, which usually contains more in depth information on what the product contains. For example "merck acetone msds". Or alternatively:
* Check the webpage linked in [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=165091#post165091 this thread] and see if your solvent and its contents is featured there
* VERY IMPORTANT: Always do an evaporating test before using a solvent for the first time: Add a quantity of the solvent to a glass/pyrex/plate (do NOT use a cd) and let it evaporate. If it leaves residues of any kind, dont use it. If it evaporates cleanly, chances are its ok to use.
* Check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=14772 this] thread on whether your chem is ok to use or where to get the right chems.

=== Is this material or container ok to use with my chemicals? ===

The keyword to search is "Chemical compatibility" or "Chemical Resistance", plus the material and solvent/chemical you are looking for. Below are some good links to help you already find the information you want:

==== Link ====

* [http://www.nalgenelabware.com/techdata/chemical/index.asp Chemical Compatibility Search]
* [http://www.coleparmer.com/techinfo/chemcomp.asp Chemical compatibility database 2]
* [http://www.greenterpene.com/GreenTerpene_Product_Compatibility_s/48.htm Limonene compatibility chart]

=== Is plastic OK to use for my extraction? ===

In short, better not. If you are going to use anyways (NOT recommended), be sure to check what kind of plastic it is, and that its compatible with the chemicals used, as in the links of the previous question. But again, better not use plastic and only use glass, read links below for explanations why:

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=26324 Warning to those using plastic containers]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=340124#post340124 Using plastic for extractions]

=== What are the different bases one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired base.

* For [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH
* For [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH, Potassium Hydroxide/KOH
* For [[:Category:Dry_Technique|Dry tek]]: Calcium Hydroxide

=== What are the different acids one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired acid.

Plenty of different kinds of acid will work, but generally people preffer the first one on the following list:
* Vinegar (acetic acid)
* Lemon Juice (citric acid)
* Phosphoric Acid
* Hydrochloric Acid/HCl/Muriatic Acid.

NOTE: Sulfuric acid is not very well suited towards this extraction, as it reacts with lye to form sodium sulfate which is very poorly water-soluble. This may result in a generous white precipitate.

Reaction:

2NaOH + H2SO4 => Na2SO4 + 2H2O

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1556 Acids]

=== How can I convert sodium bicarbonate into sodium carbonate ===

==== Link ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Conversion_of_Sodium_Bicarbonate_into_Sodium_Carbonate Sodium bicarb -> carb conversion wiki]

=== How long each acid cook? ===

30 min - 2 hours cooks in a crockpot on low-medium (or just low fire on the stove). Some people avoid boiling and only simmer, but it appears DMT salts are very stable even at boil temperatures, so there doesnt seem to be diminishing yields when boiling. Also, it's important to stir once in a while during the acid cook.

=== How many acid cooks? ===

General consensus talks about 3 runs, 2 being minimum and 5 being over-careful.

=== Can I make one long cook instead of 3 shorter ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== Which ratio of MHRB:Lye:Water is the best? ===

For STBs, 1g MHRB:1g Lye:15ml Water is generally accepted as a good ratio. People have had success with significantly less water, but 15ml per g bark is a recommended amount because less than that might make the whole mixture too thick and it can make the separation of the solvent more difficult. Also, one actually needs much less lye but this amount of lye helps prevent emulsions forming as well helps break down the plant material so that dmt is more exposed to the water.

Alternatively, one can just add enough lye for the solution to turn completely black, and go ahead and extract. If emulsions form, add more lye. One does not need to worry about over-basifying, there's no such thing. Excess lye will stay behind in the water layer once you separate the solvent in any case.

=== Can I scale down/up the amounts stated in a tek if I want to extract different amounts of mimosa? ===

Yes, just scale the quantities proportionally according to your situation

=== Can I make one big pull instead of few smaller ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be significantly smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

==== Links ====

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== How big should the pulls be / How much to pre-evaporate before freezing? ===

100ml per pull per 200g bark (or a 2:1 ratio of bark:naphtha) is a sensible recomendation. More wont hurt but it will waste solvent as you will have to evaporate much afterwards. Less solvent per pull is even better, as long as you repeat more pulls to compensate. Sometimes people use more solvent than this recommended amount, like when for example if using this ratio in one's container the layers are too thin and it is hard to separate the solvent (though there are [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#How_to_pull_.2F_get_the_solvent_off_from_the_mix.3F tricks for better separation]). If the plan is to freeze precipitate and one uses more naphtha than the recommended amount, it is recommended to pre-evaporate the naphtha before freezing.

The amount that one should pre-evaporate depends of course on how much solvent used. The idea about pre-evap is that the solvent should be as saturated as possible with dmt so that most or all of it precipitates when put in the freezer. If its not saturated enough, then not much (or not at all) will precipitate. So if one used more than 3:1 ratio of bark:solvent, then pre-evaporate enough to reach the equivalent of it (so if one used, lets say, 100ml per 100g bark, pre evaporating till a third of original volume is recommended). [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=150095#post150095 Here's] an attempt to explain why not having it saturated enough may result in no or low yield

Later pulls will most likely be less saturated with dmt than first pulls, so for the later pulls (like lets say the 4th and 5th), it would be logical to pre-evaporate even more than the first pulls. In the example given above, instead of evaporating until a third of original volume, maybe one could evaporate until there is only a quarter or a fifth of original volume.

Some people gauge the amount of pre-evaporation by doing it until the solvent starts getting cloudy.

In any case, remember to re-use the naphtha after retrieving the crystals from precipitation, and/or evaporating it all the way down to see if there are any actives that remained in the naphtha after the freeze precipitation

If one is extracting a different plant or using a different solvent, then the ratio recommendation can change. Though in extractions that one salts out the solvent (like for example in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] and other limonene-based extractions), one can (and even should) use significantly more solvent, because all alkaloids will anyways be retrieved with the salting step.

=== The layers wont separate, what to do? ===

Possible fixes:
# Dont shake next time, if you did so! Instead, Stir/roll/turn upside down slowly, several times.
# Add more basic water/lye to the mix (either mix is not basic enough or too much plant matter for too little water)
# Make a warm water bath with the whole container (remember no fire sources near solvents, and leave top slightly open for preventing building up of pressure)
# Tapping on the side of the container/vibration (like sitting on top of washing mashine)
# Adding plenty of no-additives non-iodized salt (will make the water more polar and therefore chemically help in the separation)

====Links====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5866 Naphtha won' seperate?]

=== My Solvent is Brown/Dark, what to do ? ===

It happens for some people that after mixing the solvent with the mimosa solution, the naphtha picks up a lot of color and when the layers are separated, there is no emulsion but the naphtha is very dark, brown/burgundy. The exact reasons for this are still unknown, but it seems to happen mostly with STB extractions, powdered bark and heated pulls. It may be that there are microscopic suspended particles of the mimosa/black liquid which for some reason refuse to settle, but nobody yet knows for sure.

Considering this is not an emulsion issue (if so, it can be solved as stated [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#The_layers_wont_separate.2C_what_to_do.3F here]), this issue can be solved by:

1- Wait a few hours and see if the color settles and the solvent layer gets clearer.

2- Separate the pull as you would normally, and do a sodium carbonate wash (explanation also here in the FAQ). If the wash isnt sufficient to get the dark away, then :

3- Do a 'mini A/B' (mixing the separated dark solvent with vinegar 3x, separating the vinegar and discarding the solvent. Then basify the vinegar by adding lye, and pull with fresh solvent)

=== How to pull / get the solvent off from the mix? ===

* [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Each person finds his own way. One of the practical ways is to first, with HDPE or glass pipette/turkey baster/glass syringe, crudely separate the solvent and maybe a bit of the mimosa mix into a tall thin container. Then, with another pipette/glass syringe (or same one, washed), separate the solvent (it will be easier due to being thiner container, so solvent layer will be thicker than before) to the final container for evap or freeze precip. On this second separation, only pull out what you are sure you can do accurately, and the last bit throw back into the main container. Often people complain that the turkey baster wont hold the solvent well and will start releasing liquid as soon as you stop pulling. A [http://www.plastyshack.com/images/glass_syringe.jpg glass syringe] or pipette will work better, you can find them sold in lab/chem/medical supply stores or online in a variety of shops.

* [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Same as above, or also using a separatory funnel.

=== Should I wash my spice? ===

Washing spice has as a main function to eliminate any possible lye or other polar impurities (like droplets of the mimosa basic mix) from the final product, which might make the smoke harsher. Nevertheless, unless one was sloppy and some of the basic mimosa liquid came through to the solvent when separating, there should be nothing or very small amounts of it in your final product.

In any case if one feels better making sure the spice is cleaner (because we all know how important our mental state is in these experiences, even if its clean but if you're worried it might make the experience worse), or if one's spice is unusually harsh, then proceed to a sodium carbonate wash (DO NOT WASH WITH AMMONIA! Many people report losing yield with ammonia wash )

# Have your product still in the solvent, before evaporation/precipitation. If you have already in crystal form, redissolve in a naphtha/heptane/hexane.
# Add anywhere in between a pinch to 5 grams of sodium carbonate (yes, doesnt matter... All that is necessary is for it to be a basic solution) to 100ml clean water.
# Add your spice-containing solvent and the sodium carbonate solution together in a container. Mix/shake/whatever (emulsions will not form).
# Separate the solvent from the sodium carbonate solution using pippette/turkey baster/syphon/separatory funnel. One can repeat steps 2-4 if desired, but not strictly necessary
# Freeze precipitate or evaporate to retrieve your DMT

Remember that regardless of washing, its still very important to make sure there are no solvent traces in your spice, which can be done with thorough air drying, or redissolving your dmt in a non-toxic (or less toxic) solvent like ethanol, or pure IPA/Acetone, and evapping that again

=== No precipitation or low yield? ===

# Stir/mix and let separate the layers many times over a longer period of time before pulling the solvent out of the mix, dont just let it stand.
# Evap till theres only a quarter of the naphtha left and repeat freeze precip. If this doesnt help:
# Add more lye/base in the basic solution and try again, with small warm, thoroughly mixed pulls
# If its evapped and it seems like small amount of goo, it may actually be more than it seems because goo is heavier crystals. Recrystallize goo as FAQ instructions or infuse some herbs and weigh herbs before and after infusing to know exact yield.

Other possibilities:
* Bad mimosa/plant material
* Not the right solvent (if solvent has aromatics like xylene mixed in, it wont freeze precipitate, and will evap into a gooey product, mix of dmt and other plant impurities)

=== Melting/dissapearing crystals after freeze precipitation / Whats the best way to retrieve crystals after freezing? ===

This usually happens because of remaining solvent residues warming up and redissolving the crystals.

A trick to work around that is to freeze precipitate for a day or so (if you already have the melted crystals, then redissolve them in small amounts of warm naphtha and back into the freezer), and after crystals have precipitated, take it out of the freezer, pour the naphtha off (through coffee filter just in case any crystals are not stuck to the container), close the container and put it upside down in the freezer for some more hours. This way, any remaining naphtha trapped inside the crystals will drop off to the lid of the container on the bottom.

So after those few hours, take out out of the freezer, opening the lid still upside down so the naphtha drops off, and then you can scrape the drier crystals, put them on top of a coffee filter or on a plate/petri dish to finish air drying, and voilá.

The container used for precipitation is ideally something with a lid that closes well, like a mason jar, and that the edges and walls are straight so you can scrape it off more easily. Scrape as much as you can of the dmt, and whatever is left inside, leave it and reuse the container for the next precipitation, or if its the last precipitation of the extraction, you can use some alcohol (or even naphtha, if its clean evapping naphtha) to pick the last bits up and evaporate in a dish or easy to scrape flat-bottom wide container.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=2290 DMT crystals melting]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=72767#post72767 Question about freeze precipitation times]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3519 Yellow goo. Won't crystallize]

=== How to safely heat a solvent ? ===

With the solvent safely stored far away, boil some water with any method you want. Once water is boiled, turn off heat source, get the solvent, put it in a glass and submerge the bottom of the glass on a pot containing your recently boiled water. In some seconds/minutes your solvent should be warm and you can use it for recrystallizing or pulling. NEVER warm up solvents directly with a heat source, specially no gas/open fire but even do not use electrical equipment unless it's a safe laboratory hotplate made for such purposes that will guarantee not to create sparks.

=== How does one recrystallize? ===

1- Boil some water. Turn off the fire.

2- Add your impure spice to a shotglass (weigh it before to know the amount).

3- Add around 20-30ml of naphtha/heptane/hexane per gram of impure spice to the shotglass.

4- submerge the bottom of the glass in the water. Leave it standing and/or stir it around a little bit. Most of the spice should redissolve in a few minutes, but probably a layer of goo will stay on the bottom.

5-Decant or pippette your naphtha away from the goo, put this naphtha in a clean container, close it, and into the freezer overnight for freeze precipitation. Alternatively, instead of freezing, if one wants to grow large crystals, put in a container with the lid semi-closed and/or in a place with very little air circulation, so that the naphtha evaporates very slowly. The slower the evap, the larger the crystal growth.

Its possible small amount of spice is still in the goo, so you can add another 5 or 10ml to the shotglass with the goo to pick up the last bits of dmt. This second pull will be more impure as it will pick some oils up, so freeze precipitate it separately. The goo can then be discarded

If one doesnt have a scale or for some reason cant weigh the spice, warm up a quantity of naphtha in a shotglass without the dmt and slowly add small quantities of the warm naphtha to the container containing dmt while stiring, until most dmt dissolved but a bottom layer of goo remains. Then follow step 5.
http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Can_I_make_one_long_cook_instead_of_3_shorter_ones.3F

==== Links ====

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=10545#post10545 Glass Shard Re-Crystallization Pictorial]

=== How many times can I reuse my solvent? ===

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=335995#post335995 On reusing non polar solvents]

=== What to do with the waste? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3072 What to do with the waste]

=== How Can I Extract DMT From Phalaris? ===

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phalaris_%28grass%29 Phalaris] is a genus of grasses with very variable alkaloid content, which means it's very hard or impossible to really say if a given Phalaris will have a good alkaloid content in terms of what alkaloids are present and in what amounts. Some Phalaris have very little to no DMT (or 5-MeO-DMT or Beta-Carbolines), and yet have plenty of potentially toxic alkaloids such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gramine gramine], while others have good amounts of wanted tryptamines and low gramine content. There are also tryptamines and beta-carbolines in Phalaris which have unknown activity and safety profile such as 5-MeO-NMT and others. This variability is especially the case with wild Phalaris or those grown from seeds so, for a more reliable alkaloid content, the clones of known strains such as AQ1, Big Medicine (for DMT) and Turkey Red (for 5-MeO-DMT) are probably a better bet.

'''Even though some people have reported some variable success, we do NOT recommend people to ingest a crude brew made with Phalaris grass due to the unknown amounts of possible toxic alkaloids. If using Phalaris, extract it first as mentioned below'''

If growing Phalaris yourself, [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/images/8/8a/Festiandsamorini.pdf this]publication goes over all the factors of growth that affect the alkaloid content. Please check it out. Here's some selected quotes:

* "The highest concentration (of alkaloids) is in the upper third part of the seedling leaf."
* "The total alkaloid concentration decreases with plant maturity"
* "Total alkaloids are more concentrated in the first regrowth, after the cutting or grazing, than in the first growth just after sowing, decreasing then in the following regrowths"
* "The availability of soil nitrogen increases the alkaloids concentration"
* "In soil, but not in nutrient solution cultivations, the concentration of indole alkaloids (...) increase is greater in plants supplied with ammonium nitrogen compared to the nitric source"
* "Samples of P. arundinacea growing with 20% of the full sunlight can contain an amount of DMT about twice compared to control; 5-MeO-DMT may increase up to a factor of 25"
* "DMT seems to show a maximum in the first hours of the morning, at least in shaded plants, whereas 5-MeODMT reaches a concentration peak in late morning"

Regarding the extraction itself, the plant should be extracted as soon as possible after harvesting since plant enzyme activity can break down alkaloids, even if drying the plant. If plant is not extracted immediately, it should be stored in an alcoholic solution in cold and dark. For extraction, a standard A/B could potentially work well, boiling plant material 3x in acidic water (pH anywhere from 1-6 should work), filtering, reducing to small manageable amount by low boil or simmering, and then basing with NaOH and pulling with solvent. Alternatively, a dry tek (check the nexus extraction teks wiki for more info) with calcium hydroxide or sodium carbonate could work but there haven't been enough tests to say for sure.

Regarding what solvents to use, hexane/heptane or equivalent solvents such as naphtha should work well as gramine is very poorly soluble in it, but if using naphtha make sure that it doesn't contain xylene or aromatics mixed in. Some people report specially low yields with naphtha and suggest cooking oil or room temperature limonene instead (check hippie salad oil tek link below) Cold/room temperature limonene also seems to work to separate tryptamines from gramine but more work needs to be done to make sure this separation is good enough. Check the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] for the most up-to-date info, since solubility tests on gramine are being done right now. If using naphtha or similar hydrocarbons, doing a recrystallization is a good idea to help removing other unwanted alkaloids that may have come across. Using less selective solvents like DCM, xylene, toluene or others (or acetone or alcohols in a dry tek) would pull the potentially toxic unwanted alkaloids, so its not recommended to use those, unless you do a clean up at the end

If you extract from Phalaris, we would be very thankful if you document the process (notes and/or pictures) and post so that we all can learn about the results, whether they are good or not. Please try smoking/ingesting only a very small amount at first if you do. Ideally, purchase colorimetric reagents such as marquis or ehrlich to help identifying the final product if it contains the wanted alkaloids (more info in the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] )

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=44863 Hippie salad oil tek v 2]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=16810&p=7 Phalaris way of the future thread]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=28869 PDF on processing phalaris]

=== Can I use another solvent like xylene after having pulled with naphtha? ===

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359465#post359465 Can SWIM Use Dif Solvents To Extract Different Ranges of Spice?]

== DMT Usage/Methods of administration ==

=== Is my spice ok to smoke? ===

Often people ask in the forum if their spice is ok to smoke, followed by a picture or description of the dmt's appearance. Nevertheless, there are several other variables which simple color does not tell, and which are essential to decide whether one shoud or not smoke it. Please check link below for detailed information:

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=11715 IMPORTANT: spice color purity fallacy AKA is your dmt ok to smoke ? ]

=== How to brew ayahuasca or analogues (mimosa hostilis / syrian rue)? ===

The standard way of brewing is to first of all have the material powdered/grinded or pounded as fine as possible. Then
* 1- boil on low fire (or simmer) the plant material for around three hours (some people do even longer but not necessary unless material is too coarsely shredded.. Also energetic/ecological costs become higher). Use mineral or distilled water ideally, some tap water can have too high pH and diminish yields/potency. Use enough water to cover the plant material.
* 2- filter/strain the brew to separate the liquids and solids, store the liquid separately,
* 3- add fresh water to the solids and boil everything again. Do this for a total of 3 or 4 times,
* 4- put the liquid from the 3 or 4x boils together, keep filtered/decanted solids separately for stp 6,
* 5- reduce the liquid on low fire/simmer to a manageable ammount, like for example 70ml per dose (dosages/amounts of each plant in [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this thread]

OPTIONAL:
* 6- If you want to be very thorough and get all the alkaloids out, you can now soak the plant material in vinegar for a day, then freeze and thaw it, then boil it for another hour or two. This should have a significant amount of alkaloids, which can either be extracted by basing and filtering like the Easy Caapi Extraction Tek, and the alkaloids added to the main brew (or consumed separately in some other occasion), or you could also consume this orally directly but due to the vinegar it will taste very bad, so it's better to at least base it with sodium carbonate slowly until it stops bubbling and/or reaches a pH of around 6, and then it will taste better.

The MAOI containing plant (banisteriopsis caapi vine or syrian rue) can be boiled together with the DMT containing plant (psychotria viridis or mimosa hostilis, or just add some extracted dmt in appropriate dosage to the caapi/rue brew), but specially if its the first time with a particular plant batch, its recommended to brew separately the two, and first find out the potency of the plant by drinking first a small amount.

An acid can be added to the brew (such as a dash of lemon or vinegar), but this is not strictly necessary (and neither the traditional indigenous way), specially if your plant is finely powdered, because alkaloids in the plant are naturally in water-soluble form. Though acid can increase the potency of the brew (specially for non-powdered plant material), it will also make it taste worse. To get the best out of all the worlds, its recommended to do step 6, so you have a better tasting brew without acid, but you still get any remaining alkaloids at the end in the final acid soak.

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8972 all about aya <3 ]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=51 Ayahuasca subforum]

=== Whats the best smoking method? ===

The [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] gives some tips not only on vaporizing methods but other tips, check it out.

Different people preffer different methods. FORGET THE LIGHTBULB METHOD as it only works for a small percentage of people, most report problems.

-
==== '''Vaporgenie''' ====

A big number of people in the Nexus claim the vaporgenie to be the best vaporizing method by far! The vaporgenie is claimed to be significantly more effective as well as having a much smoother vapor than other smoking methods so if one is having trouble with harsh smoke or low effects, try the vaporgenie out. The Glass VaporGenie is recommended but otherwise the classic one will work perfectly fine.

The first thing if you're vaporizing pure DMT, is to get a [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=42867 ceramic disc] or a volcano liquid pad and cut it up to fit the vaporgenie, otherwise the DMT will melt through the screens, even if it's multiple screens. Check the vaporgenie thread linked below for more details

Begin with the flame a few cms above the top and adjust as you go. With empty lungs, start inhaling slowly and steady. The idea is to inhale a dense vapour, but not too dense so that you start coughing. Its better to begin the inhaling with a not so dense smoke, and then make it denser towards the end. Keep the vapor in the lungs for as long as possible, at least 10 seconds. If you coughed or exhaled before this or couldnt inhale with all the lungs, try keeping the flame further away or adjusting the speed of inhaling so that its a bit less dense.

Usually it takes anywhere between 1-3 hits, or anywhere between 25-50mg for a full breakthrough, if you got your technique right. A torch lighter is recommended, but a normal lighter will also work fine.

- If you cant or dont want to afford a vaporgenie, a good possibility is to make your own vaporization tool like:

===='''amorfati's Inspirator MKII'''====

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8985 Link to how to build/use the Inspirator mKII]

For a vaporization to be really effective, the DMT should be heated by convection (hot air), not conduction (hot glass/pipe/material), so vaporgenie and inspirator are recommended. If you dont want to use these methods, there are other possibilities which are less effective and risk burning DMT instead of just vaporizing, but it does work decently enough for many people:

===='''- Bong/leaf bed/enhanced leaf'''====

One method also considered successful by some is in a water bong (or plain bong), with a couple of metal screens, a thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on the bottom, then the dmt in the middle, and then another thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on top.
It is essential to go very easy on the fire, because too much heat will degrade DMT. Keep the lighter as far away as possible so that it still vaporizes but doesnt over-heat your DMT
50mg seems to be a good dose if one wants to really go inside the dmt dimension. Inhale slowly and deeply, holding in the lungs as much as possible (at least a few seconds), exhaling, and then taking a second, third one if possible, and even fourth one if one still can. Even if after the first there are already some effects, if one really wants to breakthrough, gotta keep going as much as one can.

Specifically for enhanced leaf check link below

====''' The Machine'''====

Check links below

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=39961#post39961 VG VaporGenie: How to use, where to get, advantages, etc]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6014 Helps and tips for smoking spice]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=280594 My version of the "Machine" - How to make it in <15 minutes]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6131 Ban the Bulb - Modify the Machine]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to enhanced leaf changa]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5633 Thoughts on using a VaporGenie]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6317 Troubles with The Machine]

=== I dont get any effects/light buzz only, what to do? ===

99% of the times, when people do not get effects, they are having a bad vaporization method, most likely burning the sspice. Try one of the methods above, and considering it is dmt and one smokes it right, it should work. Other possibility is that one has a very impure product with too much plant oils and so on. One can perform one or more recrystalizations to get a purer product that is easier to weight accurately and vaporize, and then try methods above.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=86732#post86732 Trouble Breaking Through???]

=== Fear going into a trip ===

If you're afraid of dark things coming from inside of you and are not willing to face them, you should not consume any psychedelics at all...

If you're afraid but willing to face them, then that's another thing.

And whether it's changa, pharma, or aya or vaporized DMT, it doesn't matter much, those dark things can come out with one or the other.

A low dosage may help, yes, and so can a proper set and setting, but this is no guarantee you won't be facing what you fear the most. It can, and most likely will happen at some point, whether now or after a certain number of experiences. Whenever we take psychedelics, it's as if we sign a contract saying we accept all those possibilities. So think well before signing, and if you do sign, make sure to get all the preparations right before the time come, take it in a proper context and to humbly accept whatever may come, take responsibility for it, and learn from it.

==== Link ====

*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=470491#post470491 Suddenly concerned]

=== Denied breakthrough / Dark DMT trips / Not good experiences anymore ? ===

It happens with several people that they feel they aren't getting good experiences anymore, that the trips are consistently of dark motifs, negative feelings, or that the breakthrough is denied, regardless of dosage. There isn't a ready answer for why this happens, but it seems a few factors may be related to it. In many cases, this happens when people are having a regular or excessive DMT use, or when they haven't been dedicating enough to their daily lives, to [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration integration] of the experiences. Also, it may have in some cases to do with the intentions one sets before vaporizing the DMT, and with how one's mind state and the context in general is.

So a few tips on how to deal with this issue:

1- Take a break! The DMT hyperspace will always be there, there is no rush to go right now! Stop your DMT usage (and maybe drug usage altogether), dedicate to daily life, live a balanced healthy life, eat well, exercise, study, work. Do not obsess about DMT, try to only come back once you feel you have really made enough effort in improving your daily life. At least a few months break is recommended.

2- If and once you do decide to try it again, make sure it is a good place and time for it. Take care with using in the best set and setting possible (look further down the FAQ for recommended setting).

3- Do not smoke it impulsively. Meditate or spend a few minutes in silence, concentrating, breathing deeply and slowly.

4- Set your intentions straight. Question yourself why you are doing this. Try to have the best intentions and reasons as possible.

5- Use a good smoking method such as the vaporgenie or others as recommended above.

6- If it still doesnt work out for you, take an even longer break (many months/years), and/or stop it altogether. Realize that maybe DMT is just not for you. Its not a problem to admit one's relationship with a substance is not working, in fact, it shows you're being humble and conscious.

==== Link ====

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration Health and Safety section: Integration]
* [https://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=169680#post169680 what happened to the bright side?]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=13515 Vaporized DMT not having an effect in those who it has worked for previously]

=== What are the dosages for ... ? ===

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 Dosages and different forms of ingestion]

=== What is the best setting/context to consume spice? ===

Check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] for some tips on setting, preparation and also integration

* A comfortable quiet place is generally recommended. If there are friends around they should be requested to remain quiet while someone is embarking on this experience and only start speaking once the explorer talks himself and allows others. Possibility of telefone ringing or street noises or other interruptions is definitely NOT recommended.
* The presence of music or not depends a lot on personal taste. Some prefer full silence to 'concentrate' more deeply and mention that any stimulus keeps them too grounded in usual reality, while others can have very deep interconnected experiences with certain music of their own preference (often being some kind of chill out/ambient/ethno ).
* Many people preffer full darkness or indirect lighting, but sunset or sunrise in a nice nature place (if safe) can also be marvelous.
* Obviously '''DO NOT''' have sharp objects around, smoke next to cliffs, driving etc...
* It is very rare, but it may happen that one feels nauseated and/or vomits, so specially first times or those doing alone, its also recommended to have a bucket nearby, and to sit comfortably, resting the back against something soft in a way that you wont slip or fall, such as an armchair, bed with backrest/pillows or comfortable sofa.
* While we are not aware of any deaths, it would be irresponsible to discount the possibility that blocking your airway while deep in hyperspace could prove fatal, so be in a position/place where you are safe even if not conscious of the surroundings. During traditional ayahuasca ceremonies participants sit on the floor or in a comfortable chair. We recommend sitting upright (slightly reclined for stability) comfortably because the launch is far more immediate and surprising with vaporised DMT. Think of it as your pilot seat- you wouldn't fly a plane any other way!
* If you do not have a sitter to take the pipe from you, be sure that you have a safe and easy place very near to put it down when you feel hyperspace approaching. You will not be inclined to move your hand very far, so we would recommend a fireproof shelf of sorts less than a foot away. Just smoking cigarettes in bed kills many people every year, and obviously the same dangers are relevent with DMT. We have heard one report of a member who returned from an unenjoyable trip to find that she had dropped the pipe onto her leg, resulting in a nasty burn.
* Prior meditation or at least focusing on intention and inner calm can be benefiting.
* Remember to let go, dont struggle. Its normal that the hearbeat accelerates in the come up. Some people fear they are dying or that they wont return, but dont worry FOR SURE you come back, as it has happened with everybody else. Some people feel that they lose their breath, but its just a feeling.. As long as the airway is not physically blocked, then dont worry our body has a built-in mechanism that prevents one from stopping breathing.
* Dont be scared, entities cant hurt you in real life if you dont believe it. Try to not make 'good/bad' judgements during the experience, dont resist!! Just go with the flow of the ride. Some images may appear positive, negative, incredible, impossible to describe, etc, but you are safe regardless of what comes.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5900 Favourite setting for smoking DMT]

=== What about other ingestion methods (intranasal, intrarectal, Atomizer/E-cig etc) ? ===

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods Ingestion Methods]

=== Can DMT be IVed? ===

It can, but we do not recommend it mainly for two reasons:

1- The only official research done with DMT by Rick Strassmann used FDA-approved ultra pure DMT fumarate. The quality of home extraction products is questionable, one may have solvent traces and other impurities that could be uncomfortable, painful or downright dangerous to inject.

2- The onset of the effects are so quick that one might not be able to take out the needle in time and accidentally ripping their vein out while in hyperspace, or putting it down too near and rolling around/puncturing oneself

IF one is gonna do it inspite of contrary recommendations, then please: Take care in making many purifying steps (several recrystallizations/washes) and making sure it has no solvent or other chemical traces in the final product (redissolving the recrystallized product in USP grade acetone or ethanol and re-evaporating, scrapping and letting it dry completely before converting to fumarates in a sterile solution, etc.). Check the first link below for tips on how to prepare for injection and safety proceedures

Also, for the first try, take at most 0.2mg/kg, preferably less. And VERY importantly, [[do NOT do it by yourself]], have a sitter that is experienced with needles inject for you and be there to make sure you are physically safe.

==== Links ====

* [http://www.hipforums.com/newforums/showpost.php?p=6347899&postcount=5 Entheogen Review article on safe injection proceedure]
* [https://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4128 iv dmt]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1521 IV DMT]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3016 IV DMT?]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=144148 Injecting DMT]
* [https://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=7450 FASA safe for injection?]

=== How can I estimate the amount of mimosa? ===

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=236540#post236540 Estimating mimosa amount]

== DMT/Plant storage ==

=== Does DMT go bad? ===

The main degradation product of dmt seems to be dmt n-oxide, which is also psychoactive. Some people enjoy and find qualitative difference in n-oxide compared to dmt. On the other hand, other people report negative experiences with old spice, but it is unknown how much is self-suggestion and how much is really true. The rate at which dmt converts to n-oxide logically depends on factors such as air exposure and temperature, but so far there havent been any quantitative tests to tell how fast it goes in a given condition.

In any case, n-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

Many people convert the freebase to dmt fumarate for storage, as its claimed to be a more stable salt.

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1553 DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=302112#post302112 DMT oxidation rate]

=== Does mimosa go bad? ===

Generally mimosa should not go bad even after months/years. If it looks fine and doesnt have some mutant fungus growing on it, its perfect :) There are reports of people using mimosa that was for many months or even years in a drawer without any significant problem (though as with anything, its always more prudent to store in dark, dry, cold place).

The main possible degradation is of dmt into dmt n-oxide. Dmt n-oxide is also psychoactive, but it is not soluble in naphtha, which may cause some people to get small yields when extracting from older bark. N-oxide is soluble in limonene/xylene/toluene/etc, so one could extract it with those solvents without loss of yield. Alternatively, N-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

For oral usage of mimosa, formation of n-oxide wouldnt really affect much as it will be water soluble so one will still get the effects when consuming the brew.

==== Links ====
* [[DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3570 How long should MHRB keep]

=== Whats the best way to store DMT? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

In any case, one can also convert to dmt fumarate which is a very stable salt form of dmt

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4482 Long-term storage]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4867 How to store DMT for longest]

=== Whats the best way to store Mimosa? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

Logically, bark in pieces will keep better than when powdered

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1488 Storing mimosa hostilis]

== DMT Allies ==

=== What is jungle spice ? ===

https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359543#post359543
Jungle Spice is the product resulting from an extraction of mimosa hostilis using a solvent more polar than naphtha (such as xylene, toluene, limonene, ether, DCM, etc). Sometimes people also call it JimJam, which was first called only for limonene extracted products, but analysis shown it to be equivalent to what is extracted with xylene. Chemical analysis has shown that both naphtha as well as xylene/limonene extract mostly DMT (around 90%), plus around or under 1% 2-methy-1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-beta-carboline (2MTHBC) and NMT. The psychoactivity of 2MTHBC is unknown at this point, and NMT does appear to be psychoactive, though a quarter of the potency of DMT. Appart from these mentioned alkaloids, Xylene, when evaporated, and both limonene or xylene, when salted with an acidic solution like vinegar or FASW, also yield around 0.2% MTHBC (tetrahydroharman), and what could be 1,2-dimethyl-tetrahydrobetacarboline or a yuremamine degradation product (as suggested by dozuki in the jungle spice analysis thread linked below). Very little to nothing is known about these two 'extra' beta-carbolines in junglespice/jimjam, if they are psychoactive or can potentiate DMT.

Some people claim jungle spice to be stronger or produce a different experience than pure DMT. This may be self-suggestion (people thinking it is stronger/different therefore feeling it), it may be that the inactive oils/impurities present in jungle spice somehow protect DMT from heat, making a more effective vaporization, and therefore feel stronger. It may also be that the beta carbolines together, have a synergistic effect with DMT making a stronger experience, or it may be that these beta carbolines would only really be noticeable if they were in a larger quantity as is the case with some Acacias. It may be a mixture of any or all of the above possibilities.

Only further testing (such as blind self-experiments and more analysis) will help us isolating the variables and answer the questions on junglespice's activity

For more information on jungle spice, check the links below

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1115 Jungle Spice]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=10553 Jungle Spice chemical analysis]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23544 Entheogenic effects of NMT]

=== What is changa / How to make changa ? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Changa Changa WIKI]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to DMT enhanced leaf (changa) thread]

=== What type of caapi/ayahuasca vine should I use, what are the differences ? ===

Different ethnobotanical suppliers seem to stock different varieties of caapi. Often they use color names (for example black caapi, white caapi, etc), or other names used by local / mestizos / indigenous people (caupuri, ourinhos, etc). The problem is that there is no consensus regarding the classification of different caapi vines, so some indigenous people may recognize 2 types, in another tribe they may recognize 10 types, and so on. These types may overlap or they may even be in contradiction with each other. Also botanists would not necessarily agree with those types, as sometimes classification from indigenous people is not based on how a plant looks, but also on its effects, purpose, etc. In fact, some of what is sold as "black/red/whatever caapi" may even be of a different genus/species altogether (more discussion on this on links below)

There is an ongoing analysis project going on with different caapi/ayahuasca vines (link below), and it seems some caapis have very similar alkaloid/chemical component even if they have different names, while others may have quite different content even if they are named the same. The difference can be in ratio of alkaloids or total alkaloid yield, for example some black caapi from one vendor yielded over 2% alkaloids, a black caapi from another vendor yielded 0.5%.

Regarding the type/function/effects of different caapis, at this point any conclusions and generalizations are not possible. As an example, at times it's said that black caapi is used for more witchcraft kind of rituals by some shamans, but this doesnt mean that: a- that particular group is "correct", b-that other groups would agree with what they call "black caapi", c- That the black caapi you find is equivalent to that, d- that you cant use it for another purpose and have a great experience regardless.

It may be that there is a pattern between alkaloid content of different caapi vines (some may have more harmaline, or more THH, etc), but at this point we cannot yet say. Also even if a correctly identified subtype of caapi would have a specific alkaloid content, we would still have to make the assumption that the vendors are actually identifying correctly.

If you want to decide what type of caapi to get, one thing you could do is check the suppliers section and see if this specific caapi from the specific vendor has been reviewed, and dont believe in generalizations (all caapi "X" is strong and gives dark trips, all caapi "Y" is light and for beginners). Start with low dosage (10-20g) for the first time to gauge the strenght of this particular batch you have acquired, and then raise the dosage accordingly if necessary.

Another thing to do is to buy at least 2 different types and then take them in separate occasions, and then sharing the results with the community, and that way we all grow together.

Do check the links below as they have very relevant discussions regarding the different caapi types:

==== Links ====
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29967 Caapi analysis thread]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32018 Poorly understood family of ayahuasca vines]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=30106 tetrapterys methystica (painted caapi) and other kinds of caapi]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=325495#post325495 Which caapi should I get ?]

== Plant sources ==

=== What are the best DMT-containing plants in my area ? ===

One good way to check what DMT plants you have around you is to look at the Nexus Wiki lists for [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT plants containing DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT] ) . Then use the search function of [http://www.discoverlife.org discoverlife page] or [http://bonap.org/genera-list.html bonap] to search the plants names and see in the species map if any of the good candidates grow near you, or alternatively, you can first identify the plants growing around you and search for their scientific name on the mentioned wiki lists.

If you don't find any plants growing around you, you can consider cultivating some ideal plants yourself, for example checking out the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=38229 Top Acacias To Grow Worldwide Thread] for the mid-long term, or getting known cuttings of phalaris with good alkaloid content such as AQ1 and big medicine (for more info check all the links in the first post of the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]) which can be harvested pretty quick

=== Does this plant contain DMT ? ===

Often people ask in the forum if the plant they have growing around them contains DMT. Then they might post pictures of the plants and expect an identification. Before that is done, the person asking needs to do some basic things:

1- Look up the information to know the plants that contain interesting alkaloids. The best resources are the Nexus wiki of plants containing [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT].

If it's an Acacia, read the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Acacia information thread] and if it's a Phalaris read the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]. Those threads contain information on seed suppliers, geographic location, season of harvest, conditions of growth and variation in alkaloid content, etc, which the person should become familiar with.

2-The person should try to identify the local plants based on the information in the above links. Posting picture of random plants without at least having some clue on what they could be, will only make everybody's life much harder. Look up images of suspected plants and compare, see in what they may differ.

3- Take detailed pictures of the different plant parts (overall plant, leaf close up front and back, seedpods and flower close ups if they are there). Often to differentiate between species the details are important, so blurry bad quality pictures or single pictures with no close ups or details of different plant parts are not enough.

4- Post your ID request in the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=358663#post358663 Acacia ID thread] if it's a suspected Acacia, or make a new thread if it's a differen't plant. Be sure to say what plant you think it is, and include information such as general geographic area, the detailed pics above, and any possible differences you may have seen with the plant you think it is.

5- If your plant gets identified and you plan on harvesting, please only harvest sustainably! Check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=344487#post344487 this] post for more information

.

== Reference ==
<references/>

FAQ - DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide

2014-04-16T16:48:56Z

Cosmic Spore: /* Are the natural ingredients such as mimosa, and ayahuasca, illegal? */

{{ShowInfo|[[Image:Note_error.png]]|'''Note:'''|This page is a transcription of the 'DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide'<ref>DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide
[http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6341]</ref>.}}

== DMT overview ==

=== What is DMT, Where do I learn the basics? ===

DMT is a naturally occuring substance, present in trace amounts in normal human metabolism (and its purpouse is unknown, check question [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Is_it_true_the_pineal_gland_produces_DMT_naturally_and_is_involved_in_dreaming.3F 2.1] , as well as in a variety of plants and animals.

It can be extracted from some of these plants and smoked for some very strong psychedelic/entheogenic effects lasting 10 minutes. It can also be taken orally, but we have an enzyme (MAO) in our stomach that destroys dmt if taken orally, so for taking orally DMT must be acompanied by a substance that inhibits this enzyme (MAOI, or MAO Inhibitor), which is also present in some other plants.

Ayahuasca, a sacred drink used by indigenous people of the Amazon, is an example of a drink made from a dmt-containing plant (Psychotria viridis), together with a MAOI containing plant (Banisteriopsis caapi), that is drank orally for a psychedelic/entheogenic experience lasting around 4 hours.

When smoking, we do not need to use MAOI because we do not have MAOs in our lungs. Nevertheless, some people like to also ingest MAOIs before vaporizing DMT, or vaporizing a MAOI together with the DMT (such as in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ_-_DMT_Frequently_Asked_Questions_and_Troubleshooting_Guide#What_is_changa_.2F_How_to_make_changa_.3F changa]), to make the experience last longer.

For learning more about DMT, this whole webpage is dedicated to it. Here's a few links

==== Links ====

* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dimethyltryptamine Wikipedia DMT Link]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/ The Dmt Nexus Wiki]
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ Frequently Asked Questions]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=forum Main Dmt Nexus Forum]

=== Are there different types of DMT? ===

DMT can be in salt form or in freebase form. A salt form means the DMT is attached to an acid molecule. DMT is naturally in salt form in the plants because of plant acids (for example dmt tannate or oxalate due to tannic or oxalic acid being present in some plants). When people extract DMT, they can make it in freebase form to smoke, because DMT in salt form can't be smoked, it has high boiling point and breaks down instead of vaporizing efficiently. Some salt forms like DMT fumarate can even be toxic to smoke due to creation of maleic anhydride during combustion.

Appart from being naturally in brews made of DMT containing plants like ayahuasca, DMT can also be made into salt for, for example DMT fumarate, when people extract it, because DMT fumarate is stable and can be stored for long, and it can be taken orally or intranasally. Check [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods this] for more info. Regarding dosages in different salt forms, one can read [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this] thread. Each salt form of DMT have their own weight depending on the acid molecule weight (for example DMT fumarate's weight is around 76% DMT, 24% fumaric acid), so dosages could be adjusted proportionately to the amount of DMT when ingesting, but since each person is differently sensitive to DMT and since salt form may be a bit more effective to ingest orally, this "salt weight calculation" is not really necessary for DMT, one can just ingest according to [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 these] recommendations, starting low for first time, and adjusting according to own sensitivity and batch the next time.

There are other molecules which have the DMT structure built into them but they are not DMT, they have structural modifications, for example 4-HO-DMT also known as psilocin and 4-PO-DMT, psilocybin, the active compounds in mushrooms, which are different molecules altogether with their own particular effects. Small modifications in molecules can completely change effects. So psilocybin, psilocin, 5-MeO DMT, and 5-HO-DMT (bufotenine), plus others, are all different molecules, they are NOT the same as DMT. Each of them has different effects, pharmacology, etc etc. On the other hand, DMT freebase or DMT in salt form (tannate, acetate, fumarate) are all DMT.

== DMT Chemistry and Body ==

=== Is it true the pineal gland produces DMT naturally and is involved in dreaming and death? What does DMT do in the body? ===

At this point there is no evidence to support the claim that DMT is produced in the pineal or brain. It is a speculation raised by Dr Rick Strassman due to his previous interest in the pineal. So far in humans, the key enzymes necessary for this have [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/resource.ashx?a=5549 not been found present in the human brain], therefore it seem more likely it is produced elsewhere in the body, though some recent research has shown in primates these enzymes are present in pineal gland. In any case nothing is really proven yet so we must avoid making claims before more data comes in.

The supposed connection of DMT and dreams, and the idea that DMT is released when we die, both are speculation with no real evidence to back them up.

It IS proven, though, for decades already, that DMT is produced in the human body and is present at all times in trace amounts, for unknown functions (which could be several functions, see last link below).

==== Links ====

*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18834 Zero proof DMT is made in the brain]
*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=295746#post295746 I dislike the "DMT is responsible for your dreams" theory]
*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18394 Rethinking DMT and the Pineal Gland]
*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=18448 The functions of DMT in our body: If DMT would be a neurotransmitter]

=== Is DMT dangerous? ===

Researches have been made showing the relative safety of dmt. It does not cause physical damage, addiction, and any tolerance disappears very quickly. Ayahuasca, the dmt-containing brew from the Amazon, has been studied by multidisciplinary groups in Brazil and other countries and was shown that in a careful context, it presents no negative cognitive/psychiatric/social consequences, even in adolescents.

There is yet little research into vaporized dmt, but there seems to be no sign that it is in any way more dangerous physically than other administration forms. There are no reported deaths from smoking DMT. Smoking it will not lead to a dangerous overdose because the onset is so quick that one can only inhale a certain amount before being gone to ´hyperspace', without being able to smoke more until one is down again.

However:
* People with extreme heart or other conditions for whom strong emotions could be dangerous are contra-indicated, just like a roller coaster would for them.
* It is important to notice that with any psychedelic, it is a very powerful emotional/mental experience, so those with personal or family psychiatric history, unstable emotionally or going through some very difficult moments in life should be extremely careful.
* Also, it is possible that during the experience, one temporarily loses orientation in the consensus reality, so smoking/ingesting next to a cliff, sharp objects, etc, is not a good idea. BE IN A PHYSICALLY SAFE ENVIRONMENT!
* DO NOT use MAOIs (so for example an ayahuasca brew) together with stimulants or SSRI medication

Appart from that, there are psychological issues to be considered. Please read the health and safety section linked below, as well as the scientific articles also linked below.

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety Health And Safety Section]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1441 Scientific Articles on DMT/Ayahuasca/Psychedelics]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4400 Long term effects of smoking DMT]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5843 DMT After-Effects]

=== Is a MAOI diet / Ayahuasca fasting necessary? What kind of dangers are there with medication interaction? ===

Unlike some pharmaceutical MAOI, the Harmalas, alkaloids present in the caapi vine and syrian rue are reversible inhibitors of MAO-A, while Tyramine, the component in some food that could cause problems in big amounts, is eliminated partly by MAO-A and but also partly by the intact MAO-B ([http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 source] ). Also for some pharmacological reason as shown in [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_fig9big.jpg this] diagram, tyramine can still be partly metabolized by MAO-A even during the harmala effects.

In other words, in terms of '''food''' interaction, the danger with reversible MAOI use (in for example ayahuasca or pharmahuasca with harmalas) and food interaction is very reduced. The necessity of the very strict dieting for ayahuasca with extensive list of what one must absolutely not eat is an exaggeration, though it is advised to eat light because extreme amounts of tyramine in some specific foods could theoretically still be a potential problem.

There seem to be no reports of actual life-threatening events with tyramine-containing foods and harmalas. There are even people that purposely ate tyramine-containing foods with no ill effects, but there have also been reports of negative symptoms such as very strong headaches and negative body load when mixing a heavy food consumption before/during/after harmala consumption. Several other variables may also be involved that are unrelated to tyramine and harmala-food interaction (variables such as for example exhaustion from the trip, vasodilation, the body/ayahuasca telling the person to 'eat better' in general, etc). Headaches seem specially common when mixing beer and harmalas.

In any case, it is generally considered common sense to eat light before and after the use of ayahuasca and analogues (and psychedelics in general). Just follow your good sense and you should be fine. To eer on the side of caution, the food to avoid eating (or over-eating) is aged or fermented food specially aged cheese, fermented or smoked meat (fish included) and soy products (though some soy products have also been found to have little tyramine content). Beer should also be avoided as some people have experienced negative interaction between MAOIs and beer. Apart from that, there are no real restrictions, eat lightly and all should be good :)

In relation to how long to wait after the last food before taking ayahuasca, this is very personal. Some like to have empty stomach and be fasting for 6 or more hours, but this is not necessary, and others feel it is even negative to fast for so long, because a too empty stomach might make one very tired during the ceremony, specialy at the end, and can also make purging a specially difficult or uncomfortable experience. Some consider better to have eaten something light (like some fruits or cereal or light sandwhich) a couple of hours before ingesting ayahuasca/analogues.

Remember: With the exception of moclobemide, which stands in the same category as harmalas as far as reversibility and food interaction goes, avoid all other pharmaceutical MAOIs !! Pharmaceutical irreversible MAOIs are VERY dangerous to take without taking strong precautions with food and drug interaction.

'''What IS dangerous is interaction between any MAOIs (including harmalas) and stimulants or some medication''' such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_serotonin_reuptake_inhibitor SSRI] medication such as prozac, or stimulants such as amphetamines or others. If you're taking SSRI's, do not consume MAOIs!! Do not mix stimulants with MAOIs either! Mixing stimulants/SSRIs with MAOIs can cause Serotonin Syndrome which may lead to convulsions or even death. For pharmaceuticals and substances that should NEVER be taken when consuming harmalas, check [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 1] and [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/userdocs/articleimages/140/1008CNS_Stahl_table7big.jpg List 2]

==== Links ====
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29131 Do you experience tyramine interaction with harmalas?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5711 Will smoked Rue cause MAOI?]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5398 Think iv cracked it]
* [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=tyramine%20food%20table&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CFMQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fddr.nal.usda.gov%2Fbitstream%2F10113%2F7351%2F1%2FIND43817287.pdf&ei=PpvsT8zAEsXAhAehj-nPBQ&usg=AFQjCNGKR57Q_VTqzOjKxfvKbu0kDTB8Ng&cad=rja Scientific publication on food containing tyramine]
* [http://www.cnsspectrums.com/aspx/articledetail.aspx?articleid=1791 scientific publication on interaction of MAOIs and tyramine]

== DMT and Society ==

=== Is dmt legal? ===

Posession and sales of DMT in its pure extracted/synthesized form is illegal, schedule 1 in USA and controlled by United Nations and can land you in jail if found in most countries.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/dmt/dmt_law.shtml Erowid DMT Law Vault]

=== Are the natural ingredients such as mimosa, and ayahuasca, illegal? ===

'''[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=21527 On the Legal Status of DMT Source Plants in the US (with a discussion of the religious use defense)]'''

==== Links ====

* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/chemicals/ayahuasca/ayahuasca_law.shtml Erowid Ayahuasca Law Vault]
* [http://www.anoniem.org/?http://www.erowid.org/plants/mimosa/mimosa_law.shtml Erowid Mimosa Law Vault]

=== Whats the price of dmt / Can I trade dmt? ===

'''[https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Attitude_Page#No_discussion_on_selling.2C_buying.2C_sourcing.2C_acquiring.2C_pricing.2C_trading.2C_mentioning_pending_deliveries_or_smuggling_of_drugs No discussion on selling, buying, sourcing, acquiring, pricing, trading, mentioning pending deliveries or smuggling of drugs].'''

'''DO NOT BUY OR SELL DMT!''' We at the nexus are against selling/profiting with this incredible substance. We do not know and we do not want to know how much it costs in the street, we do not want it to be sold on the streets! This is not only disrespectful and shows a lack of understanding about the power of this substance, but its also a liability for the whole community. Dealing/trading DMT can attract the attention of authorities and create a problem not only for yourself but for all others in the community.

'''Talking about DMT sales or trade will result in suspension from the forum!'''

All the reasons why we dont believe in it are listed in the thread below

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3414 Street Value of DMT (and why you should never sell it) ]

== DMT Extraction ==

=== Where to start? ===

There are several ways of extracting DMT, and different ways use different chemicals and take different time. It is recommended that before embarking on extracting, one reads up at least a couple of different teks (link on the bottom) to understand the processes.

The basics of an extraction is:

DMT is present in many plant materials and can be isolated through simple processes. Most commonly used plant is [[Mimosa hostilis]] root bark, but there are other plants with good alkaloid profile such as certain Acacias and certain strains of [[Phalaris spp.]]

DMT in an acidic solution is in salt form and therefore water soluble, while DMT in a basic solution becomes a freebase and not water soluble but rather soluble in non-polar solvents (like limonene, naphtha, xylene, etc). This works similarly to most other alkaloids, with a few exceptions, for example harmalas freebase dont dissolve in the solvents mentioned above, but when you add a base to a solution containing harmalas, they just precipitate and you can filter them.

Back to DMT, non-polar solvents separate from water like oil, it stays as a layer on top. By playing with the pH (adding an acid or a base) you make the dmt move from one place to the other while most of other impurities dont, and then you separate the layers by pippeting/separatory funnel/decanting, and then retrieve the dmt from the non-polar solvent by evaporating it or freeze-precipitating (putting it in a closed container in the freezer, and as the temperature goes down the solubility of dmt in the solvent diminishes, so after some hours dmt precipitates and can be retrieved). There are differences depending on the process of extraction you use (for example limonene can't be evaporated and neither freeze precipitated, it's usually salted, as described in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB], but that is, in a very general way, how it works.

There are some new developed teks for extracting dmt with food-safe materials and/or no petro-chemical solvents, such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] , [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Amor_fati%27s_Nontoxic_Approach_to_Spice_Extraction Amor Fati's approach], or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21%27s_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek Q21Q21's extraction tek]. The biggest advantage is, as said, the use of relatively non-toxic material and no petrochemicals but instead solvents such as limonene, which is basically pure orange oil. The disadvantage is that to retrieve the dmt from limonene, you cannot evaporate it (as limonene doesnt evaporate cleanly, it leaves gooey residues), and freeze precipitation also doesnt work (as even in freeze temperatures, dmt is still too soluble in it so it doesnt precipitate), so there are 2 extra steps, which are to 'salt out' the limonene by mixing it with an acidic solution, evaporating that solution and then freebasing the resulting product if one wants to smoke it (or just keeping the salt for storage or oral consumption), as explained in the teks mentioned above. These steps are just as easy as any other step done in the earlier steps of the extraction but the fact that its two extra steps means some extra time and work which some people might not want.

There are also the standard STB (straight-to-base) teks that have been used a lot before the food-safe/limo teks, the two most common being [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Noman%27s_tek Noman's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Lazyman%27s_tek Lazyman Tek]. The mimosa (or whatever plant material extracted) is put straight in a basic solution from the beginning, with no acid-adding step, and hence the name. The advantage of STBs generally being that they need less steps, maybe simpler for beginners, and can usually be quicker, and the main disadvantage being the amount of lye/caustic soda they require (lye being dangerous if it spills because it causes serious chemical burns and could make one blind, though if done correctly it will not be on your final product. Also disadvantage of using much lye is it is watched in many places due to being used in meth production, so it might be suspicious to buy it, or even impossible to find, specially in some specific places of USA). Another possible disadvantage of STB teks is some people claim the final product is not as clean, its more yellow. Yellow dmt isnt necessarily a problem, though, some people even prefer it. Also, one can easily do a recrystalization (look below in the FAQ for explanation) which will effectively clean up the final product quickly and with very little solvent needed.

Then there are the A/B extractions (acid/base), such as [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Vovin%27s_tek Vovin's tek] and [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Marsofold%27s_tek Marsofold's tek]. As the name suggests, the plant material is first simmered/boiled in acid 3x, filtered and later the base is added. The advantage being that when one is adding the base and mixing the solvent, the solids were already removed after the acid step, making it easier to mix the solvent, and easier to discard everything later. Also the acid step allows one to do a defat, though usually that is considered a wasteful way of cleaning up because it needs a lot of solvent for removing a bit of fats, which can be accomplished more efficiently with a recrystallization on the final product. The disadvantage of an A/B is that it takes longer because of the initial acid step, and if one isnt thorough enough in this acid step one will lose a lot of actives when discarding the solids before moving on to the Base step.

==== Links ====

* [[:Category:Extraction_Tek|Extraction Teks]]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1085 DMT Extraction Overview]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=318336#post318336 Art of liquid-liquid extraction - The basics]

=== What is the best tek? ===

There is no "best" tek. All teks featured in the Nexus Wiki should result in similar final product purity and yields, if correctly performed. Each tek has it's own characteristics regarding chemicals used, how long it takes, how thorough it's explained, if it includes optional clean up steps or not, etc. That is why, before deciding on one tek, it's important to read all (or at least some of them), also the "where to start" question above and the extraction overview linked there. That way you will have a better understanding of the processes instead of just blindly following a tek, which means you'll probably be more succesful with whichever tek you decide to use in the end.

=== Is my solvent/chemical OK to use? ===

Before using any solvent, one must make sure it is a clean evaporating solvent with no toxic/residual additives (or for other non-volatile chemicals used, make sure it has no toxic/unwanted additives). Always:

* Read the ingredients on the solvent's or chemical's label. Make sure it is pure with nothing appart from the desired chemical (for example: Naphtha/Aliphatic hydrocarbons)
* Google "solventbrand solvent/chemical msds", searching the brand of the solvent you have access to, to see if it has an msds, which usually contains more in depth information on what the product contains. For example "merck acetone msds". Or alternatively:
* Check the webpage linked in [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=165091#post165091 this thread] and see if your solvent and its contents is featured there
* VERY IMPORTANT: Always do an evaporating test before using a solvent for the first time: Add a quantity of the solvent to a glass/pyrex/plate (do NOT use a cd) and let it evaporate. If it leaves residues of any kind, dont use it. If it evaporates cleanly, chances are its ok to use.
* Check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=14772 this] thread on whether your chem is ok to use or where to get the right chems.

=== Is this material or container ok to use with my chemicals? ===

The keyword to search is "Chemical compatibility" or "Chemical Resistance", plus the material and solvent/chemical you are looking for. Below are some good links to help you already find the information you want:

==== Link ====

* [http://www.nalgenelabware.com/techdata/chemical/index.asp Chemical Compatibility Search]
* [http://www.coleparmer.com/techinfo/chemcomp.asp Chemical compatibility database 2]
* [http://www.greenterpene.com/GreenTerpene_Product_Compatibility_s/48.htm Limonene compatibility chart]

=== Is plastic OK to use for my extraction? ===

In short, better not. If you are going to use anyways (NOT recommended), be sure to check what kind of plastic it is, and that its compatible with the chemicals used, as in the links of the previous question. But again, better not use plastic and only use glass, read links below for explanations why:

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=26324 Warning to those using plastic containers]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=340124#post340124 Using plastic for extractions]

=== What are the different bases one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired base.

* For [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH
* For [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH, Potassium Hydroxide/KOH
* For [[:Category:Dry_Technique|Dry tek]]: Calcium Hydroxide

=== What are the different acids one can use? ===

Always read the labels carefully and make sure there are no unwanted chemicals together with the desired acid.

Plenty of different kinds of acid will work, but generally people preffer the first one on the following list:
* Vinegar (acetic acid)
* Lemon Juice (citric acid)
* Phosphoric Acid
* Hydrochloric Acid/HCl/Muriatic Acid.

NOTE: Sulfuric acid is not very well suited towards this extraction, as it reacts with lye to form sodium sulfate which is very poorly water-soluble. This may result in a generous white precipitate.

Reaction:

2NaOH + H2SO4 => Na2SO4 + 2H2O

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1556 Acids]

=== How can I convert sodium bicarbonate into sodium carbonate ===

==== Link ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Conversion_of_Sodium_Bicarbonate_into_Sodium_Carbonate Sodium bicarb -> carb conversion wiki]

=== How long each acid cook? ===

30 min - 2 hours cooks in a crockpot on low-medium (or just low fire on the stove). Some people avoid boiling and only simmer, but it appears DMT salts are very stable even at boil temperatures, so there doesnt seem to be diminishing yields when boiling. Also, it's important to stir once in a while during the acid cook.

=== How many acid cooks? ===

General consensus talks about 3 runs, 2 being minimum and 5 being over-careful.

=== Can I make one long cook instead of 3 shorter ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== Which ratio of MHRB:Lye:Water is the best? ===

For STBs, 1g MHRB:1g Lye:15ml Water is generally accepted as a good ratio. People have had success with significantly less water, but 15ml per g bark is a recommended amount because less than that might make the whole mixture too thick and it can make the separation of the solvent more difficult. Also, one actually needs much less lye but this amount of lye helps prevent emulsions forming as well helps break down the plant material so that dmt is more exposed to the water.

Alternatively, one can just add enough lye for the solution to turn completely black, and go ahead and extract. If emulsions form, add more lye. One does not need to worry about over-basifying, there's no such thing. Excess lye will stay behind in the water layer once you separate the solvent in any case.

=== Can I scale down/up the amounts stated in a tek if I want to extract different amounts of mimosa? ===

Yes, just scale the quantities proportionally according to your situation

=== Can I make one big pull instead of few smaller ones? ===

No. You can, but yield will be significantly smaller. Like washing clothes, its better to make more cycles with clean water then only using the same water for washing all clothes.

==== Links ====

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=290310#post290310 Several Small Extractions are Better than One Big One]

=== How big should the pulls be / How much to pre-evaporate before freezing? ===

100ml per pull per 200g bark (or a 2:1 ratio of bark:naphtha) is a sensible recomendation. More wont hurt but it will waste solvent as you will have to evaporate much afterwards. Less solvent per pull is even better, as long as you repeat more pulls to compensate. Sometimes people use more solvent than this recommended amount, like when for example if using this ratio in one's container the layers are too thin and it is hard to separate the solvent (though there are [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#How_to_pull_.2F_get_the_solvent_off_from_the_mix.3F tricks for better separation]). If the plan is to freeze precipitate and one uses more naphtha than the recommended amount, it is recommended to pre-evaporate the naphtha before freezing.

The amount that one should pre-evaporate depends of course on how much solvent used. The idea about pre-evap is that the solvent should be as saturated as possible with dmt so that most or all of it precipitates when put in the freezer. If its not saturated enough, then not much (or not at all) will precipitate. So if one used more than 3:1 ratio of bark:solvent, then pre-evaporate enough to reach the equivalent of it (so if one used, lets say, 100ml per 100g bark, pre evaporating till a third of original volume is recommended). [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=150095#post150095 Here's] an attempt to explain why not having it saturated enough may result in no or low yield

Later pulls will most likely be less saturated with dmt than first pulls, so for the later pulls (like lets say the 4th and 5th), it would be logical to pre-evaporate even more than the first pulls. In the example given above, instead of evaporating until a third of original volume, maybe one could evaporate until there is only a quarter or a fifth of original volume.

Some people gauge the amount of pre-evaporation by doing it until the solvent starts getting cloudy.

In any case, remember to re-use the naphtha after retrieving the crystals from precipitation, and/or evaporating it all the way down to see if there are any actives that remained in the naphtha after the freeze precipitation

If one is extracting a different plant or using a different solvent, then the ratio recommendation can change. Though in extractions that one salts out the solvent (like for example in [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/BLAB_-_The_Big_Leisurely_A/B BLAB] and other limonene-based extractions), one can (and even should) use significantly more solvent, because all alkaloids will anyways be retrieved with the salting step.

=== The layers wont separate, what to do? ===

Possible fixes:
# Dont shake next time, if you did so! Instead, Stir/roll/turn upside down slowly, several times.
# Add more basic water/lye to the mix (either mix is not basic enough or too much plant matter for too little water)
# Make a warm water bath with the whole container (remember no fire sources near solvents, and leave top slightly open for preventing building up of pressure)
# Tapping on the side of the container/vibration (like sitting on top of washing mashine)
# Adding plenty of no-additives non-iodized salt (will make the water more polar and therefore chemically help in the separation)

====Links====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5866 Naphtha won' seperate?]

=== My Solvent is Brown/Dark, what to do ? ===

It happens for some people that after mixing the solvent with the mimosa solution, the naphtha picks up a lot of color and when the layers are separated, there is no emulsion but the naphtha is very dark, brown/burgundy. The exact reasons for this are still unknown, but it seems to happen mostly with STB extractions, powdered bark and heated pulls. It may be that there are microscopic suspended particles of the mimosa/black liquid which for some reason refuse to settle, but nobody yet knows for sure.

Considering this is not an emulsion issue (if so, it can be solved as stated [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#The_layers_wont_separate.2C_what_to_do.3F here]), this issue can be solved by:

1- Wait a few hours and see if the color settles and the solvent layer gets clearer.

2- Separate the pull as you would normally, and do a sodium carbonate wash (explanation also here in the FAQ). If the wash isnt sufficient to get the dark away, then :

3- Do a 'mini A/B' (mixing the separated dark solvent with vinegar 3x, separating the vinegar and discarding the solvent. Then basify the vinegar by adding lye, and pull with fresh solvent)

=== How to pull / get the solvent off from the mix? ===

* [[:Category:Straight_To_Base|STB]]: Each person finds his own way. One of the practical ways is to first, with HDPE or glass pipette/turkey baster/glass syringe, crudely separate the solvent and maybe a bit of the mimosa mix into a tall thin container. Then, with another pipette/glass syringe (or same one, washed), separate the solvent (it will be easier due to being thiner container, so solvent layer will be thicker than before) to the final container for evap or freeze precip. On this second separation, only pull out what you are sure you can do accurately, and the last bit throw back into the main container. Often people complain that the turkey baster wont hold the solvent well and will start releasing liquid as soon as you stop pulling. A [http://www.plastyshack.com/images/glass_syringe.jpg glass syringe] or pipette will work better, you can find them sold in lab/chem/medical supply stores or online in a variety of shops.

* [[:Category:Acid/Base|A/B]]: Same as above, or also using a separatory funnel.

=== Should I wash my spice? ===

Washing spice has as a main function to eliminate any possible lye or other polar impurities (like droplets of the mimosa basic mix) from the final product, which might make the smoke harsher. Nevertheless, unless one was sloppy and some of the basic mimosa liquid came through to the solvent when separating, there should be nothing or very small amounts of it in your final product.

In any case if one feels better making sure the spice is cleaner (because we all know how important our mental state is in these experiences, even if its clean but if you're worried it might make the experience worse), or if one's spice is unusually harsh, then proceed to a sodium carbonate wash (DO NOT WASH WITH AMMONIA! Many people report losing yield with ammonia wash )

# Have your product still in the solvent, before evaporation/precipitation. If you have already in crystal form, redissolve in a naphtha/heptane/hexane.
# Add anywhere in between a pinch to 5 grams of sodium carbonate (yes, doesnt matter... All that is necessary is for it to be a basic solution) to 100ml clean water.
# Add your spice-containing solvent and the sodium carbonate solution together in a container. Mix/shake/whatever (emulsions will not form).
# Separate the solvent from the sodium carbonate solution using pippette/turkey baster/syphon/separatory funnel. One can repeat steps 2-4 if desired, but not strictly necessary
# Freeze precipitate or evaporate to retrieve your DMT

Remember that regardless of washing, its still very important to make sure there are no solvent traces in your spice, which can be done with thorough air drying, or redissolving your dmt in a non-toxic (or less toxic) solvent like ethanol, or pure IPA/Acetone, and evapping that again

=== No precipitation or low yield? ===

# Stir/mix and let separate the layers many times over a longer period of time before pulling the solvent out of the mix, dont just let it stand.
# Evap till theres only a quarter of the naphtha left and repeat freeze precip. If this doesnt help:
# Add more lye/base in the basic solution and try again, with small warm, thoroughly mixed pulls
# If its evapped and it seems like small amount of goo, it may actually be more than it seems because goo is heavier crystals. Recrystallize goo as FAQ instructions or infuse some herbs and weigh herbs before and after infusing to know exact yield.

Other possibilities:
* Bad mimosa/plant material
* Not the right solvent (if solvent has aromatics like xylene mixed in, it wont freeze precipitate, and will evap into a gooey product, mix of dmt and other plant impurities)

=== Melting/dissapearing crystals after freeze precipitation / Whats the best way to retrieve crystals after freezing? ===

This usually happens because of remaining solvent residues warming up and redissolving the crystals.

A trick to work around that is to freeze precipitate for a day or so (if you already have the melted crystals, then redissolve them in small amounts of warm naphtha and back into the freezer), and after crystals have precipitated, take it out of the freezer, pour the naphtha off (through coffee filter just in case any crystals are not stuck to the container), close the container and put it upside down in the freezer for some more hours. This way, any remaining naphtha trapped inside the crystals will drop off to the lid of the container on the bottom.

So after those few hours, take out out of the freezer, opening the lid still upside down so the naphtha drops off, and then you can scrape the drier crystals, put them on top of a coffee filter or on a plate/petri dish to finish air drying, and voilá.

The container used for precipitation is ideally something with a lid that closes well, like a mason jar, and that the edges and walls are straight so you can scrape it off more easily. Scrape as much as you can of the dmt, and whatever is left inside, leave it and reuse the container for the next precipitation, or if its the last precipitation of the extraction, you can use some alcohol (or even naphtha, if its clean evapping naphtha) to pick the last bits up and evaporate in a dish or easy to scrape flat-bottom wide container.

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=2290 DMT crystals melting]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=72767#post72767 Question about freeze precipitation times]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3519 Yellow goo. Won't crystallize]

=== How to safely heat a solvent ? ===

With the solvent safely stored far away, boil some water with any method you want. Once water is boiled, turn off heat source, get the solvent, put it in a glass and submerge the bottom of the glass on a pot containing your recently boiled water. In some seconds/minutes your solvent should be warm and you can use it for recrystallizing or pulling. NEVER warm up solvents directly with a heat source, specially no gas/open fire but even do not use electrical equipment unless it's a safe laboratory hotplate made for such purposes that will guarantee not to create sparks.

=== How does one recrystallize? ===

1- Boil some water. Turn off the fire.

2- Add your impure spice to a shotglass (weigh it before to know the amount).

3- Add around 20-30ml of naphtha/heptane/hexane per gram of impure spice to the shotglass.

4- submerge the bottom of the glass in the water. Leave it standing and/or stir it around a little bit. Most of the spice should redissolve in a few minutes, but probably a layer of goo will stay on the bottom.

5-Decant or pippette your naphtha away from the goo, put this naphtha in a clean container, close it, and into the freezer overnight for freeze precipitation. Alternatively, instead of freezing, if one wants to grow large crystals, put in a container with the lid semi-closed and/or in a place with very little air circulation, so that the naphtha evaporates very slowly. The slower the evap, the larger the crystal growth.

Its possible small amount of spice is still in the goo, so you can add another 5 or 10ml to the shotglass with the goo to pick up the last bits of dmt. This second pull will be more impure as it will pick some oils up, so freeze precipitate it separately. The goo can then be discarded

If one doesnt have a scale or for some reason cant weigh the spice, warm up a quantity of naphtha in a shotglass without the dmt and slowly add small quantities of the warm naphtha to the container containing dmt while stiring, until most dmt dissolved but a bottom layer of goo remains. Then follow step 5.
http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/FAQ#Can_I_make_one_long_cook_instead_of_3_shorter_ones.3F

==== Links ====

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=10545#post10545 Glass Shard Re-Crystallization Pictorial]

=== How many times can I reuse my solvent? ===

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=335995#post335995 On reusing non polar solvents]

=== What to do with the waste? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3072 What to do with the waste]

=== How Can I Extract DMT From Phalaris? ===

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phalaris_%28grass%29 Phalaris] is a genus of grasses with very variable alkaloid content, which means it's very hard or impossible to really say if a given Phalaris will have a good alkaloid content in terms of what alkaloids are present and in what amounts. Some Phalaris have very little to no DMT (or 5-MeO-DMT or Beta-Carbolines), and yet have plenty of potentially toxic alkaloids such as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gramine gramine], while others have good amounts of wanted tryptamines and low gramine content. There are also tryptamines and beta-carbolines in Phalaris which have unknown activity and safety profile such as 5-MeO-NMT and others. This variability is especially the case with wild Phalaris or those grown from seeds so, for a more reliable alkaloid content, the clones of known strains such as AQ1, Big Medicine (for DMT) and Turkey Red (for 5-MeO-DMT) are probably a better bet.

'''Even though some people have reported some variable success, we do NOT recommend people to ingest a crude brew made with Phalaris grass due to the unknown amounts of possible toxic alkaloids. If using Phalaris, extract it first as mentioned below'''

If growing Phalaris yourself, [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/w/images/8/8a/Festiandsamorini.pdf this]publication goes over all the factors of growth that affect the alkaloid content. Please check it out. Here's some selected quotes:

* "The highest concentration (of alkaloids) is in the upper third part of the seedling leaf."
* "The total alkaloid concentration decreases with plant maturity"
* "Total alkaloids are more concentrated in the first regrowth, after the cutting or grazing, than in the first growth just after sowing, decreasing then in the following regrowths"
* "The availability of soil nitrogen increases the alkaloids concentration"
* "In soil, but not in nutrient solution cultivations, the concentration of indole alkaloids (...) increase is greater in plants supplied with ammonium nitrogen compared to the nitric source"
* "Samples of P. arundinacea growing with 20% of the full sunlight can contain an amount of DMT about twice compared to control; 5-MeO-DMT may increase up to a factor of 25"
* "DMT seems to show a maximum in the first hours of the morning, at least in shaded plants, whereas 5-MeODMT reaches a concentration peak in late morning"

Regarding the extraction itself, the plant should be extracted as soon as possible after harvesting since plant enzyme activity can break down alkaloids, even if drying the plant. If plant is not extracted immediately, it should be stored in an alcoholic solution in cold and dark. For extraction, a standard A/B could potentially work well, boiling plant material 3x in acidic water (pH anywhere from 1-6 should work), filtering, reducing to small manageable amount by low boil or simmering, and then basing with NaOH and pulling with solvent. Alternatively, a dry tek (check the nexus extraction teks wiki for more info) with calcium hydroxide or sodium carbonate could work but there haven't been enough tests to say for sure.

Regarding what solvents to use, hexane/heptane or equivalent solvents such as naphtha should work well as gramine is very poorly soluble in it, but if using naphtha make sure that it doesn't contain xylene or aromatics mixed in. Some people report specially low yields with naphtha and suggest cooking oil or room temperature limonene instead (check hippie salad oil tek link below) Cold/room temperature limonene also seems to work to separate tryptamines from gramine but more work needs to be done to make sure this separation is good enough. Check the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] for the most up-to-date info, since solubility tests on gramine are being done right now. If using naphtha or similar hydrocarbons, doing a recrystallization is a good idea to help removing other unwanted alkaloids that may have come across. Using less selective solvents like DCM, xylene, toluene or others (or acetone or alcohols in a dry tek) would pull the potentially toxic unwanted alkaloids, so its not recommended to use those, unless you do a clean up at the end

If you extract from Phalaris, we would be very thankful if you document the process (notes and/or pictures) and post so that we all can learn about the results, whether they are good or not. Please try smoking/ingesting only a very small amount at first if you do. Ideally, purchase colorimetric reagents such as marquis or ehrlich to help identifying the final product if it contains the wanted alkaloids (more info in the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread] )

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris analysis thread]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=44863 Hippie salad oil tek v 2]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=16810&p=7 Phalaris way of the future thread]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=28869 PDF on processing phalaris]

=== Can I use another solvent like xylene after having pulled with naphtha? ===

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359465#post359465 Can SWIM Use Dif Solvents To Extract Different Ranges of Spice?]

== DMT Usage/Methods of administration ==

=== Is my spice ok to smoke? ===

Often people ask in the forum if their spice is ok to smoke, followed by a picture or description of the dmt's appearance. Nevertheless, there are several other variables which simple color does not tell, and which are essential to decide whether one shoud or not smoke it. Please check link below for detailed information:

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=11715 IMPORTANT: spice color purity fallacy AKA is your dmt ok to smoke ? ]

=== How to brew ayahuasca or analogues (mimosa hostilis / syrian rue)? ===

The standard way of brewing is to first of all have the material powdered/grinded or pounded as fine as possible. Then
* 1- boil on low fire (or simmer) the plant material for around three hours (some people do even longer but not necessary unless material is too coarsely shredded.. Also energetic/ecological costs become higher). Use mineral or distilled water ideally, some tap water can have too high pH and diminish yields/potency. Use enough water to cover the plant material.
* 2- filter/strain the brew to separate the liquids and solids, store the liquid separately,
* 3- add fresh water to the solids and boil everything again. Do this for a total of 3 or 4 times,
* 4- put the liquid from the 3 or 4x boils together, keep filtered/decanted solids separately for stp 6,
* 5- reduce the liquid on low fire/simmer to a manageable ammount, like for example 70ml per dose (dosages/amounts of each plant in [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 this thread]

OPTIONAL:
* 6- If you want to be very thorough and get all the alkaloids out, you can now soak the plant material in vinegar for a day, then freeze and thaw it, then boil it for another hour or two. This should have a significant amount of alkaloids, which can either be extracted by basing and filtering like the Easy Caapi Extraction Tek, and the alkaloids added to the main brew (or consumed separately in some other occasion), or you could also consume this orally directly but due to the vinegar it will taste very bad, so it's better to at least base it with sodium carbonate slowly until it stops bubbling and/or reaches a pH of around 6, and then it will taste better.

The MAOI containing plant (banisteriopsis caapi vine or syrian rue) can be boiled together with the DMT containing plant (psychotria viridis or mimosa hostilis, or just add some extracted dmt in appropriate dosage to the caapi/rue brew), but specially if its the first time with a particular plant batch, its recommended to brew separately the two, and first find out the potency of the plant by drinking first a small amount.

An acid can be added to the brew (such as a dash of lemon or vinegar), but this is not strictly necessary (and neither the traditional indigenous way), specially if your plant is finely powdered, because alkaloids in the plant are naturally in water-soluble form. Though acid can increase the potency of the brew (specially for non-powdered plant material), it will also make it taste worse. To get the best out of all the worlds, its recommended to do step 6, so you have a better tasting brew without acid, but you still get any remaining alkaloids at the end in the final acid soak.

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8972 all about aya <3 ]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=topics&f=51 Ayahuasca subforum]

=== Whats the best smoking method? ===

The [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] gives some tips not only on vaporizing methods but other tips, check it out.

Different people preffer different methods. FORGET THE LIGHTBULB METHOD as it only works for a small percentage of people, most report problems.

-
==== '''Vaporgenie''' ====

A big number of people in the Nexus claim the vaporgenie to be the best vaporizing method by far! The vaporgenie is claimed to be significantly more effective as well as having a much smoother vapor than other smoking methods so if one is having trouble with harsh smoke or low effects, try the vaporgenie out. The Glass VaporGenie is recommended but otherwise the classic one will work perfectly fine.

The first thing if you're vaporizing pure DMT, is to get a [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=42867 ceramic disc] or a volcano liquid pad and cut it up to fit the vaporgenie, otherwise the DMT will melt through the screens, even if it's multiple screens. Check the vaporgenie thread linked below for more details

Begin with the flame a few cms above the top and adjust as you go. With empty lungs, start inhaling slowly and steady. The idea is to inhale a dense vapour, but not too dense so that you start coughing. Its better to begin the inhaling with a not so dense smoke, and then make it denser towards the end. Keep the vapor in the lungs for as long as possible, at least 10 seconds. If you coughed or exhaled before this or couldnt inhale with all the lungs, try keeping the flame further away or adjusting the speed of inhaling so that its a bit less dense.

Usually it takes anywhere between 1-3 hits, or anywhere between 25-50mg for a full breakthrough, if you got your technique right. A torch lighter is recommended, but a normal lighter will also work fine.

- If you cant or dont want to afford a vaporgenie, a good possibility is to make your own vaporization tool like:

===='''amorfati's Inspirator MKII'''====

[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8985 Link to how to build/use the Inspirator mKII]

For a vaporization to be really effective, the DMT should be heated by convection (hot air), not conduction (hot glass/pipe/material), so vaporgenie and inspirator are recommended. If you dont want to use these methods, there are other possibilities which are less effective and risk burning DMT instead of just vaporizing, but it does work decently enough for many people:

===='''- Bong/leaf bed/enhanced leaf'''====

One method also considered successful by some is in a water bong (or plain bong), with a couple of metal screens, a thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on the bottom, then the dmt in the middle, and then another thick layer of ashes or thin layer of herbs on top.
It is essential to go very easy on the fire, because too much heat will degrade DMT. Keep the lighter as far away as possible so that it still vaporizes but doesnt over-heat your DMT
50mg seems to be a good dose if one wants to really go inside the dmt dimension. Inhale slowly and deeply, holding in the lungs as much as possible (at least a few seconds), exhaling, and then taking a second, third one if possible, and even fourth one if one still can. Even if after the first there are already some effects, if one really wants to breakthrough, gotta keep going as much as one can.

Specifically for enhanced leaf check link below

====''' The Machine'''====

Check links below

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=39961#post39961 VG VaporGenie: How to use, where to get, advantages, etc]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6014 Helps and tips for smoking spice]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=280594 My version of the "Machine" - How to make it in <15 minutes]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6131 Ban the Bulb - Modify the Machine]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to enhanced leaf changa]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5633 Thoughts on using a VaporGenie]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=6317 Troubles with The Machine]

=== I dont get any effects/light buzz only, what to do? ===

99% of the times, when people do not get effects, they are having a bad vaporization method, most likely burning the sspice. Try one of the methods above, and considering it is dmt and one smokes it right, it should work. Other possibility is that one has a very impure product with too much plant oils and so on. One can perform one or more recrystalizations to get a purer product that is easier to weight accurately and vaporize, and then try methods above.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=86732#post86732 Trouble Breaking Through???]

=== Fear going into a trip ===

If you're afraid of dark things coming from inside of you and are not willing to face them, you should not consume any psychedelics at all...

If you're afraid but willing to face them, then that's another thing.

And whether it's changa, pharma, or aya or vaporized DMT, it doesn't matter much, those dark things can come out with one or the other.

A low dosage may help, yes, and so can a proper set and setting, but this is no guarantee you won't be facing what you fear the most. It can, and most likely will happen at some point, whether now or after a certain number of experiences. Whenever we take psychedelics, it's as if we sign a contract saying we accept all those possibilities. So think well before signing, and if you do sign, make sure to get all the preparations right before the time come, take it in a proper context and to humbly accept whatever may come, take responsibility for it, and learn from it.

==== Link ====

*[https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=470491#post470491 Suddenly concerned]

=== Denied breakthrough / Dark DMT trips / Not good experiences anymore ? ===

It happens with several people that they feel they aren't getting good experiences anymore, that the trips are consistently of dark motifs, negative feelings, or that the breakthrough is denied, regardless of dosage. There isn't a ready answer for why this happens, but it seems a few factors may be related to it. In many cases, this happens when people are having a regular or excessive DMT use, or when they haven't been dedicating enough to their daily lives, to [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration integration] of the experiences. Also, it may have in some cases to do with the intentions one sets before vaporizing the DMT, and with how one's mind state and the context in general is.

So a few tips on how to deal with this issue:

1- Take a break! The DMT hyperspace will always be there, there is no rush to go right now! Stop your DMT usage (and maybe drug usage altogether), dedicate to daily life, live a balanced healthy life, eat well, exercise, study, work. Do not obsess about DMT, try to only come back once you feel you have really made enough effort in improving your daily life. At least a few months break is recommended.

2- If and once you do decide to try it again, make sure it is a good place and time for it. Take care with using in the best set and setting possible (look further down the FAQ for recommended setting).

3- Do not smoke it impulsively. Meditate or spend a few minutes in silence, concentrating, breathing deeply and slowly.

4- Set your intentions straight. Question yourself why you are doing this. Try to have the best intentions and reasons as possible.

5- Use a good smoking method such as the vaporgenie or others as recommended above.

6- If it still doesnt work out for you, take an even longer break (many months/years), and/or stop it altogether. Realize that maybe DMT is just not for you. Its not a problem to admit one's relationship with a substance is not working, in fact, it shows you're being humble and conscious.

==== Link ====

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT-Nexus_Wiki:Health_and_Safety#Integration Health and Safety section: Integration]
* [https://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=169680#post169680 what happened to the bright side?]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=13515 Vaporized DMT not having an effect in those who it has worked for previously]

=== What are the dosages for ... ? ===

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=11514&#post11514 Dosages and different forms of ingestion]

=== What is the best setting/context to consume spice? ===

Check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/users/house/DMTDiagram.png visual diagram for dmt usage] for some tips on setting, preparation and also integration

* A comfortable quiet place is generally recommended. If there are friends around they should be requested to remain quiet while someone is embarking on this experience and only start speaking once the explorer talks himself and allows others. Possibility of telefone ringing or street noises or other interruptions is definitely NOT recommended.
* The presence of music or not depends a lot on personal taste. Some prefer full silence to 'concentrate' more deeply and mention that any stimulus keeps them too grounded in usual reality, while others can have very deep interconnected experiences with certain music of their own preference (often being some kind of chill out/ambient/ethno ).
* Many people preffer full darkness or indirect lighting, but sunset or sunrise in a nice nature place (if safe) can also be marvelous.
* Obviously '''DO NOT''' have sharp objects around, smoke next to cliffs, driving etc...
* It is very rare, but it may happen that one feels nauseated and/or vomits, so specially first times or those doing alone, its also recommended to have a bucket nearby, and to sit comfortably, resting the back against something soft in a way that you wont slip or fall, such as an armchair, bed with backrest/pillows or comfortable sofa.
* While we are not aware of any deaths, it would be irresponsible to discount the possibility that blocking your airway while deep in hyperspace could prove fatal, so be in a position/place where you are safe even if not conscious of the surroundings. During traditional ayahuasca ceremonies participants sit on the floor or in a comfortable chair. We recommend sitting upright (slightly reclined for stability) comfortably because the launch is far more immediate and surprising with vaporised DMT. Think of it as your pilot seat- you wouldn't fly a plane any other way!
* If you do not have a sitter to take the pipe from you, be sure that you have a safe and easy place very near to put it down when you feel hyperspace approaching. You will not be inclined to move your hand very far, so we would recommend a fireproof shelf of sorts less than a foot away. Just smoking cigarettes in bed kills many people every year, and obviously the same dangers are relevent with DMT. We have heard one report of a member who returned from an unenjoyable trip to find that she had dropped the pipe onto her leg, resulting in a nasty burn.
* Prior meditation or at least focusing on intention and inner calm can be benefiting.
* Remember to let go, dont struggle. Its normal that the hearbeat accelerates in the come up. Some people fear they are dying or that they wont return, but dont worry FOR SURE you come back, as it has happened with everybody else. Some people feel that they lose their breath, but its just a feeling.. As long as the airway is not physically blocked, then dont worry our body has a built-in mechanism that prevents one from stopping breathing.
* Dont be scared, entities cant hurt you in real life if you dont believe it. Try to not make 'good/bad' judgements during the experience, dont resist!! Just go with the flow of the ride. Some images may appear positive, negative, incredible, impossible to describe, etc, but you are safe regardless of what comes.

==== Link ====

* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=5900 Favourite setting for smoking DMT]

=== What about other ingestion methods (intranasal, intrarectal, Atomizer/E-cig etc) ? ===

* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Ingestion_Methods Ingestion Methods]

=== Can DMT be IVed? ===

It can, but we do not recommend it mainly for two reasons:

1- The only official research done with DMT by Rick Strassmann used FDA-approved ultra pure DMT fumarate. The quality of home extraction products is questionable, one may have solvent traces and other impurities that could be uncomfortable, painful or downright dangerous to inject.

2- The onset of the effects are so quick that one might not be able to take out the needle in time and accidentally ripping their vein out while in hyperspace, or putting it down too near and rolling around/puncturing oneself

IF one is gonna do it inspite of contrary recommendations, then please: Take care in making many purifying steps (several recrystallizations/washes) and making sure it has no solvent or other chemical traces in the final product (redissolving the recrystallized product in USP grade acetone or ethanol and re-evaporating, scrapping and letting it dry completely before converting to fumarates in a sterile solution, etc.). Check the first link below for tips on how to prepare for injection and safety proceedures

Also, for the first try, take at most 0.2mg/kg, preferably less. And VERY importantly, [[do NOT do it by yourself]], have a sitter that is experienced with needles inject for you and be there to make sure you are physically safe.

==== Links ====

* [http://www.hipforums.com/newforums/showpost.php?p=6347899&postcount=5 Entheogen Review article on safe injection proceedure]
* [https://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4128 iv dmt]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1521 IV DMT]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3016 IV DMT?]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=144148 Injecting DMT]
* [https://dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=7450 FASA safe for injection?]

=== How can I estimate the amount of mimosa? ===

==== Links ====

* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=236540#post236540 Estimating mimosa amount]

== DMT/Plant storage ==

=== Does DMT go bad? ===

The main degradation product of dmt seems to be dmt n-oxide, which is also psychoactive. Some people enjoy and find qualitative difference in n-oxide compared to dmt. On the other hand, other people report negative experiences with old spice, but it is unknown how much is self-suggestion and how much is really true. The rate at which dmt converts to n-oxide logically depends on factors such as air exposure and temperature, but so far there havent been any quantitative tests to tell how fast it goes in a given condition.

In any case, n-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

Many people convert the freebase to dmt fumarate for storage, as its claimed to be a more stable salt.

==== Link ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1553 DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=302112#post302112 DMT oxidation rate]

=== Does mimosa go bad? ===

Generally mimosa should not go bad even after months/years. If it looks fine and doesnt have some mutant fungus growing on it, its perfect :) There are reports of people using mimosa that was for many months or even years in a drawer without any significant problem (though as with anything, its always more prudent to store in dark, dry, cold place).

The main possible degradation is of dmt into dmt n-oxide. Dmt n-oxide is also psychoactive, but it is not soluble in naphtha, which may cause some people to get small yields when extracting from older bark. N-oxide is soluble in limonene/xylene/toluene/etc, so one could extract it with those solvents without loss of yield. Alternatively, N-oxide can be converted back to dmt using zinc dust, see link below

For oral usage of mimosa, formation of n-oxide wouldnt really affect much as it will be water soluble so one will still get the effects when consuming the brew.

==== Links ====
* [[DMT N-Oxide to Freebase DMT]]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3570 How long should MHRB keep]

=== Whats the best way to store DMT? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

In any case, one can also convert to dmt fumarate which is a very stable salt form of dmt

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4482 Long-term storage]
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=4867 How to store DMT for longest]

=== Whats the best way to store Mimosa? ===

As with mostly anything, a dark, airtight, dry and cold place is the best, but dmt is reasonably stable and one doesnt have to worry much appart from dmt-n-oxide (see question 6.1)

Logically, bark in pieces will keep better than when powdered

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1488 Storing mimosa hostilis]

== DMT Allies ==

=== What is jungle spice ? ===

https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=359543#post359543
Jungle Spice is the product resulting from an extraction of mimosa hostilis using a solvent more polar than naphtha (such as xylene, toluene, limonene, ether, DCM, etc). Sometimes people also call it JimJam, which was first called only for limonene extracted products, but analysis shown it to be equivalent to what is extracted with xylene. Chemical analysis has shown that both naphtha as well as xylene/limonene extract mostly DMT (around 90%), plus around or under 1% 2-methy-1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-beta-carboline (2MTHBC) and NMT. The psychoactivity of 2MTHBC is unknown at this point, and NMT does appear to be psychoactive, though a quarter of the potency of DMT. Appart from these mentioned alkaloids, Xylene, when evaporated, and both limonene or xylene, when salted with an acidic solution like vinegar or FASW, also yield around 0.2% MTHBC (tetrahydroharman), and what could be 1,2-dimethyl-tetrahydrobetacarboline or a yuremamine degradation product (as suggested by dozuki in the jungle spice analysis thread linked below). Very little to nothing is known about these two 'extra' beta-carbolines in junglespice/jimjam, if they are psychoactive or can potentiate DMT.

Some people claim jungle spice to be stronger or produce a different experience than pure DMT. This may be self-suggestion (people thinking it is stronger/different therefore feeling it), it may be that the inactive oils/impurities present in jungle spice somehow protect DMT from heat, making a more effective vaporization, and therefore feel stronger. It may also be that the beta carbolines together, have a synergistic effect with DMT making a stronger experience, or it may be that these beta carbolines would only really be noticeable if they were in a larger quantity as is the case with some Acacias. It may be a mixture of any or all of the above possibilities.

Only further testing (such as blind self-experiments and more analysis) will help us isolating the variables and answer the questions on junglespice's activity

For more information on jungle spice, check the links below

==== Links ====
* [http://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1115 Jungle Spice]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=10553 Jungle Spice chemical analysis]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23544 Entheogenic effects of NMT]

=== What is changa / How to make changa ? ===

==== Links ====
* [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Changa Changa WIKI]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=3539 A guide to DMT enhanced leaf (changa) thread]

=== What type of caapi/ayahuasca vine should I use, what are the differences ? ===

Different ethnobotanical suppliers seem to stock different varieties of caapi. Often they use color names (for example black caapi, white caapi, etc), or other names used by local / mestizos / indigenous people (caupuri, ourinhos, etc). The problem is that there is no consensus regarding the classification of different caapi vines, so some indigenous people may recognize 2 types, in another tribe they may recognize 10 types, and so on. These types may overlap or they may even be in contradiction with each other. Also botanists would not necessarily agree with those types, as sometimes classification from indigenous people is not based on how a plant looks, but also on its effects, purpose, etc. In fact, some of what is sold as "black/red/whatever caapi" may even be of a different genus/species altogether (more discussion on this on links below)

There is an ongoing analysis project going on with different caapi/ayahuasca vines (link below), and it seems some caapis have very similar alkaloid/chemical component even if they have different names, while others may have quite different content even if they are named the same. The difference can be in ratio of alkaloids or total alkaloid yield, for example some black caapi from one vendor yielded over 2% alkaloids, a black caapi from another vendor yielded 0.5%.

Regarding the type/function/effects of different caapis, at this point any conclusions and generalizations are not possible. As an example, at times it's said that black caapi is used for more witchcraft kind of rituals by some shamans, but this doesnt mean that: a- that particular group is "correct", b-that other groups would agree with what they call "black caapi", c- That the black caapi you find is equivalent to that, d- that you cant use it for another purpose and have a great experience regardless.

It may be that there is a pattern between alkaloid content of different caapi vines (some may have more harmaline, or more THH, etc), but at this point we cannot yet say. Also even if a correctly identified subtype of caapi would have a specific alkaloid content, we would still have to make the assumption that the vendors are actually identifying correctly.

If you want to decide what type of caapi to get, one thing you could do is check the suppliers section and see if this specific caapi from the specific vendor has been reviewed, and dont believe in generalizations (all caapi "X" is strong and gives dark trips, all caapi "Y" is light and for beginners). Start with low dosage (10-20g) for the first time to gauge the strenght of this particular batch you have acquired, and then raise the dosage accordingly if necessary.

Another thing to do is to buy at least 2 different types and then take them in separate occasions, and then sharing the results with the community, and that way we all grow together.

Do check the links below as they have very relevant discussions regarding the different caapi types:

==== Links ====
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29967 Caapi analysis thread]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=32018 Poorly understood family of ayahuasca vines]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=30106 tetrapterys methystica (painted caapi) and other kinds of caapi]
* [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=325495#post325495 Which caapi should I get ?]

== Plant sources ==

=== What are the best DMT-containing plants in my area ? ===

One good way to check what DMT plants you have around you is to look at the Nexus Wiki lists for [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT plants containing DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT] ) . Then use the search function of [http://www.discoverlife.org discoverlife page] or [http://bonap.org/genera-list.html bonap] to search the plants names and see in the species map if any of the good candidates grow near you, or alternatively, you can first identify the plants growing around you and search for their scientific name on the mentioned wiki lists.

If you don't find any plants growing around you, you can consider cultivating some ideal plants yourself, for example checking out the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=38229 Top Acacias To Grow Worldwide Thread] for the mid-long term, or getting known cuttings of phalaris with good alkaloid content such as AQ1 and big medicine (for more info check all the links in the first post of the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]) which can be harvested pretty quick

=== Does this plant contain DMT ? ===

Often people ask in the forum if the plant they have growing around them contains DMT. Then they might post pictures of the plants and expect an identification. Before that is done, the person asking needs to do some basic things:

1- Look up the information to know the plants that contain interesting alkaloids. The best resources are the Nexus wiki of plants containing [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/DMT#Plants_containing_DMT DMT] (or [http://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/5-MeO-DMT 5-MeO-DMT].

If it's an Acacia, read the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=23472 Acacia information thread] and if it's a Phalaris read the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=29986 Phalaris Analysis thread]. Those threads contain information on seed suppliers, geographic location, season of harvest, conditions of growth and variation in alkaloid content, etc, which the person should become familiar with.

2-The person should try to identify the local plants based on the information in the above links. Posting picture of random plants without at least having some clue on what they could be, will only make everybody's life much harder. Look up images of suspected plants and compare, see in what they may differ.

3- Take detailed pictures of the different plant parts (overall plant, leaf close up front and back, seedpods and flower close ups if they are there). Often to differentiate between species the details are important, so blurry bad quality pictures or single pictures with no close ups or details of different plant parts are not enough.

4- Post your ID request in the [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=358663#post358663 Acacia ID thread] if it's a suspected Acacia, or make a new thread if it's a differen't plant. Be sure to say what plant you think it is, and include information such as general geographic area, the detailed pics above, and any possible differences you may have seen with the plant you think it is.

5- If your plant gets identified and you plan on harvesting, please only harvest sustainably! Check [https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=344487#post344487 this] post for more information

.

== Reference ==
<references/>